View Full Version : Project: Motorized Madness!

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08-22-2007, 01:25 PM
As many of you know, I just finished my Water Cooled Turbine Project. I have been designing a case to mount it to. Well the time has come to start this project. I am calling it "Motorized Madness". Simply put, there will be several panels on the case that will be motorized to reveal objects, fans, controls etc. Some panels will be hidden, and some will be obvious.

The most electronically challenging part of this mod will be to integrate all the motorization with a servo controller and have them automatically open on windows start and close on windows shutdown. I have already placed orders for some of the equipment I will be using such as a clear acrylic case,


I have begun the 3d model sketch to help layout objects and how everything is going to work. here are some screen shots.

Overall case with turbine mounted on top. Note, all doors and panels are in closed position.

Here is the case with the doors in the open position. you will notice there is a large round hole on the side of the case. That is actually a window that opens up to the case.

Here we see the round case window, a small temperature monitor that gets revealed by a panel that slides up, the front intake fan that is covered by 3 panes that rotate. A flip down accesory panel for the fan controller and switches, and the stealthed dvd tray.

Here are some other shots:


On the top of the front panel there is a door that hinges upward (Inside) that opens the channel for the air to the dual 120mm radiator.


The entire case is going to be covered in panels similar to the Turbine, however I won't have to run el wire as I did on the turbine because of the clear case. there will be cold cathode lights on the inside that will shine thru the slots and gaps in the panel that I build. This way I can have the openengs go around corners and have much more interesting patterns. In fact, most of the clear case will be covered. I will airbrush and paint the case similar to the turbine as well. Obviously more kit bashing and the industrial look is in order.

The round opening window will prove to be the most mechanically challenging portion of this project as I cannot find this item anywhere, I've only seen it in movies, so I wll need to build it from scratch.

Hope everyone likes my design, If you have any suggestions or ideas to make it better, please let me know.

08-22-2007, 01:34 PM
I'm REALLY looking forward to this! The turbine was awesome, and if you can make all those panels and servos work, this will kick serious booty.

08-22-2007, 01:53 PM
subscribed* I cant wait to see how you transform the case into what you want.

08-22-2007, 01:57 PM
I forgot to mention, I also ordered a dual 120 mm Danger Den Black Ice Extreme II radiator.


I figured I'd need this to cool my video card.

here is the servor contoller I am looking at getting.
I'll have to wait untill payday to order it. but it has the ability to control up to 32 servos, with full postition and speed control. Programming it could be PITA though.

08-22-2007, 02:23 PM
Fine renders, the mod best look just as good ;)

08-22-2007, 02:33 PM
Well, this be another one that I add to my subscriptions ;) +rep too :)

08-22-2007, 02:48 PM
i thought your turbine mod was the coolest thing ever. AND NOW YOUR MAKING A COMPUTER TO MAKE....


08-22-2007, 03:13 PM
That circular opening on the side is killer.. like the iris in a lens. Might be a p.i.t.a. to make, but will be super cool to see. :D

Lairy Fiquid
08-22-2007, 03:19 PM
As for any suggestions or ideas i think you have enough of your own the plan looks great :D
Best of luck, will be watching this especially after the turbine :up:

08-22-2007, 03:33 PM
That circular opening on the side is killer.. like the iris in a lens. Might be a p.i.t.a. to make, but will be super cool to see. :D

Thanks for the term IRIS. I was trying to come up with what to call it, and you hit it on the head! +Rep to you.

here is a screenshot of the cad file I desinged to make it work

I'm going to make the framwork out of plastic sheet and the iris parts themselves will be laser cut out of thin aluminum. I think I'm going to add more blades than the 14 I designed. By addign more, I can make them thinner and therefore get a larger diameter opening without making the frame larger.

08-22-2007, 03:36 PM
That iris will be easy to motorize too.. if all the vanes are attached at one point to a static mount, and the second point to a rotating ring, its just a matter of having an actuator push /pull on the ring to open or close the iris.


Also, I was thinking on this, and came up with a another cool idea for this for you. PM me for details

08-22-2007, 03:54 PM
you know this thread is gonna get swamped :D and we are expecting great things my man after your turbine project.
great renders gives us a really good idea of the direction your wanting to head in.
good luck man and no doubt another +rep machine :D

08-22-2007, 04:53 PM
the iris idea :o... brilliant!... +rep for that!... gonna be pure star gate xD

08-22-2007, 04:59 PM
if this thing will be close to the turbine its gonna be ass kickin keeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeewwwwwww wwwwwllllllllllllll :D :D hurry dude i want pics NOW!!!! :D

08-22-2007, 05:27 PM
if you have the time i would make those shutters for the rad moterized to, like an economizer on a rooftop ac unit.

really cool case though +rep.

08-22-2007, 06:34 PM
Hey Rendermandan. I just found your turbine project this morning. Now I'll be able to say I got in on the first post now.

On a different note. For the Iris. I was thinking about something that would work. But I forgot it by the time I got here. But an old style vegitable steamer that sits in the pan and has sides that fold still comes to mind. You could mod that piece and use some of the original design since it comes in a round shape to begin with. I hope that little bit helps.

08-22-2007, 07:53 PM
WOW! Can't wait for construction pics. +rep

08-22-2007, 10:55 PM
Hey Rendermandan. I just found your turbine project this morning. Now I'll be able to say I got in on the first post now.

On a different note. For the Iris. I was thinking about something that would work. But I forgot it by the time I got here. But an old style vegitable steamer that sits in the pan and has sides that fold still comes to mind. You could mod that piece and use some of the original design since it comes in a round shape to begin with. I hope that little bit helps.

i believe you mean this...



my parents use one. i think he wants it flat so this would open up and stick out. also it would be harder to open and close that. i think the only way to use this would be with some cables pushing in and out. though it would be neat to hide a big red button under it, like a power switch.

08-23-2007, 09:32 AM
Yeah, thats exactly what I meant. If you were to flatten it out and knock off one side of the part that hinges, I think it would slide out of the way by turning it.
Or maybe you could try and mimic the design and make it work for you.

08-23-2007, 09:34 AM
Wow, I can tell you guys are really excited! The case and dvd burner should arrive today. I talked to my buddy who has the laser etcher about cutting out the parts for the iris with that. he said we could do it, but not untill next week. -I guess that gives me a little more time to refine the design.

Luke, you are exactly right on how this is designed, the pins toward the inside are the static pivot points and the ring around the outside is what rotates all the blades simultaneously.

Spawn, -I can see where you thought there were shutters for the radiator. that was actually the radiator fins that you saw in the pic. -I just didnt' model the all the fins. -I was planning to cover the outside with the large
round hole mesh I used on the turbine. But great idea though, I might have to look into that. :)

I should have some pics of the case up tonight, and hopefully get started on construction this weekend. Have to go buy some more sytrene first. -ALOT MORE!

08-23-2007, 10:29 AM
simply beautiful. maybe one day i might be able to d something like that.

08-23-2007, 10:35 AM
Well, my wallet is now $200 lighter. -I just ordered the servo contoller, 6 servos, power supply and a bunch of hardware from http://www.lynxmotion.com/ViewPage.aspx?ContentCode=Home

here is the servo controller I ordered. It controls can control up to 32 servos.
-6 will be enough (right now).

Man-I'm really broke now, and I still have to buy styrene.

08-23-2007, 11:24 AM
Nice expensive stuff.

08-23-2007, 01:03 PM
ok, here is a revised drawing of the iris. I upped the panes to 20 and added the servo mount

The overall diamater of the entire structure is 12". this will give me a 8" dia opening when completly opened.

Not sure how much torque it will need. -Hopefully not alot.

08-23-2007, 01:14 PM
its just incredible.... kewl

08-24-2007, 09:34 AM
Ok, here we go.

the case and dvd drive arrived yesterday. Last night I put the case together and started doing some work.

Here is the case, all tightly packed in this box. -This is how they actually shipped it to.


after an hour or so, here it is assembled.

Man, what a NICE case! this thing is gorgeous. every edge is polished and smooth. If anyone want to get a clear case and leave it clear, this is the case to get! -Its a shame to see it get cut up and mostly covered.

and just for a before shot, here is the case with the water cooling turbine on top:

When starting a project like this, its hard to figure out where to get started, so I decided to do some easy stuff first.

I cut off the mounting tabs for the front movable 120 mm fan bracket.



Then I used a cutoff wheel on my dremel and trimmed out the bottom of the front panel where the usb and power switches are usually.


The idea is to have the fan as low as possible.


I made a box to frame and set its depth. This box will help me to mount and form the 3 doors on the front.


Here it is with the fan:

Thats about it for now. I'm still waiting on about 4 packages that won't be here untill next week. Then I can really get started on this. Mostly right now I have to buy more styrene plastic and wait on the hardware.


08-24-2007, 09:53 AM
i dont know how easily that case will scratch or how clumsy you are [hopefully not like me] but you might wanna consider taping up some of those parts of the case, the parts that are not going to be covered up but the mod.

i think we all learned from your last mod this thing is going to rock. good luck bro

08-24-2007, 10:25 AM
Thats a good point, however I'm really not worried about scratches. Most of the case is going to get covered up or painted and the parts that do show through are actually going to be frosted to they will "Glow" with light between the cracks in the panels. the window in the side of the case, the IRIS, will be a seperate piece of plexi that I will cover. Thanks for your input though.

08-24-2007, 02:56 PM
man that is one clear looking case!

08-24-2007, 06:03 PM
Dan, First the turbine, and now this. You're going to be like mini-Capello if you keep it up.

Also, I think you should mount the turbine so that the fans on the turbine face the front. But that's just my opinion.

Still, though, this should be good.

08-24-2007, 07:30 PM
I got my eye out for the iris... this could be mega.

+ reppage my good man.

08-25-2007, 04:43 PM
I'm always worried about clear cases showing the dust and scratches of everyday use.

I hope this mod is half as good as the Turbine res.



08-25-2007, 09:27 PM
I just signed up to the forum because of this. First the turbine, now this...just wow.

08-25-2007, 09:51 PM
welcome renegade, yep ole rendermandan is bring in a crowd from all corners of the globe with his turbine and now this beast.

The boy 4rm oz
08-26-2007, 08:15 AM
I didn't know you had started the case yet, I was waiting for you to post a link in the turbine log. Oh well, can't wait to see how this turns out.


08-26-2007, 03:08 PM
Minty, here's a link to the page for two of the most common makers of these plastics. I get them at a local store called Hobbytown USA, but I dont know what stores you might have locally.

Plastruct (http://www.plastruct.com/)

Evergreen Scale Models (http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/)

08-26-2007, 11:30 PM
Sorry to keep you guys in suspense, I've been working on the Iris this weekend and have been getting frustrated. Its not turning out to work very well. I'll have some pictures and possible, If I can get it to work, some video of the Iris in action tomorrow. It takes too long to upload a 10mb file from my home computer, So I'll updated tomorrow from work.

Just so you don't get your hopes up, Its not finished yet, and It may never be, you'll see why tomorrow. :mad:
I may have to redesign it, or come up with a different window mod.

08-27-2007, 12:46 AM
Minty, here's a link to the page for two of the most common makers of these plastics. I get them at a local store called Hobbytown USA, but I dont know what stores you might have locally.

Plastruct (http://www.plastruct.com/)

Evergreen Scale Models (http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/)

+rep for those links

I needed a cheaper place to get my styrene from


08-27-2007, 09:20 AM
ok, here's whats been happening. This part is good!

I finished making the doors for the front intake fan.


Here they are opened.

and the back side to show the hinges:


Then I made the mechanism at the top to open them:

I'll have to hold here till my servos come in today.

NOW, here is the start of the IRIS.

(20) Identical vanes.

I laid them out on a patter to get the feel for things.


Then I cut out and made the mounting plate:

Here are the vanes on the mounting plate:


Then I made the movment ring:

Here you can see it all assembled:

here is a closeup of the pins

here it is opened:

Here it is closed: THIS IS WHAT I'M PISSED ABOUT!!!!

It doesn't close correctly. there are huge gaps! What I've found, even after about 3 hours of adjusting the hole locations, is that everything must be identical and perfectly aligned, with no slop or play whatsoever. everythign was hand cut to the best of my ability to get them exaclty the same, but even the slightest offset or hole drilled sligtly incorrectly, will cause this. Everything has to be too perfect to make this work.

here is a video so you guys can see it in action.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h205/rendermandan/Motorized%20Madness%20Case/th_100_2567.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h205/rendermandan/Motorized%20Madness%20Case/?action=view&current=100_2567.flv)

I'm not sure where to go on from this point on this part of the mod. I may have to redesign the whole thing from how many vanes to the actuall shape of the vanes and its size. Also, I may have to seriously look into having this laser cut out.

Today, I should get my servos and controller, so that will give me something to play around with for a few days. There is not point in building all this stuff if I can't get the servos to work, so I will concentrate on getting that setup for now.

Later, Dan

The boy 4rm oz
08-27-2007, 09:58 AM
Mate this is some seriously good work. Keep it up. +rep

EDIT: need to spread some more rep :(

08-27-2007, 10:16 AM
Render - Don't give up man! I'm sure we can brainstorm something between everyone here! Honestly, I don't have any ideaon how to improve upon what you have already made. I doubt I could even get it to the point it is now! Maybe you should find an old camera, and take it apart. study the shutter and see how it is constructed. Maybe if you made less vanes? What if it were 4 or 5 main vains instead of 20? That would at least leave a little more room for error (as in - not needing to be laser-accurate..)


Good suggestion Minty, However here is what happens with less vanes. The fewer vanes you have, the thicker they have to be to cover the gap from one vane to the other. So if they are real thick (wide) then when they open, they can only open as far untill they hit the pin of the next vane. This wil make the opening smaller because they are wider. That is why I went to 20 and they were very thin, I think I just have to find a happy medium between number of vanes and width to how large of an opening.

I have an idea about cutting a notch on the back side of the vane to fit around the pin of the adjacent vane though. I'm working on drawing that up
but I think I will still need the laser cutting. I actually isn't that hard to do, My friend is a teacher at a local high school, and they have a laser etcher that will cut through thin material. I might have to give him a call. They also have a rapid prototyper too. That thing is kick ass!

08-27-2007, 11:47 AM
Gutted for ya man, absolutely gutted.

This is the point where I lose the plot and sling the lot in a corner and stamp on it.

Fair play, you'll get there.

08-28-2007, 01:48 PM
Hey you guys, I received my servos and controller yesterday. I should be able to play around with it tonight!

08-28-2007, 06:20 PM
Hey Renderman,
I rendered an scene for an intro-video with a door that works like your Iris... And I needed some hours just to make it work in virtual-reality. I admire you for turning this into reality :)
I really hope that you get this to work with laser-cut parts!
How thick is the material you use for the fins?

08-28-2007, 07:13 PM
Very impressive.

I caught wind of this through the Lynxmotion forums you posted on. This is something I would like to get into if I had the time.

A suggestion on the iris: the control of the vanes needs to be moved closer to the end points to eliminate slop. I'm not clear on what your idea is for a fix, but I would try adding a small piece of tube at the end point of each vane and passing some fishing line through each loop. Though this may limit the size of the opening a bit..

Another suggestion would be to make/use 3 or so compound vanes, which may offer the stability of less vanes with a larger opening.

Whatever you do, I can't wait to see what comes next..

08-28-2007, 09:32 PM
Eveen if it does have some gaps it looks awesome. I say, play with it and it may get close enough to your standards. Freakin awesome job Dan.

+rep if I could

08-28-2007, 11:58 PM
Thanks you guys, I talked to my buddy with the laser etcher, he said we should be able to do it but in a few weeks. they are just getting classes started and he wanted to wait till things settle down. So for now, I'll just work on another part of it.

I got he electronics from Lynxmotion.com and I have to say, I'm very impressed. The shipping was very fast! The packaging was impecable. they used very heavy clear plastic bags that had every part I ordered sealed in its own "pouch" and very clearly labled. -Everything was accounted for and in good order. -I would recommend buying from them to anyone!

Here is the hardware I purchased: there is alot!

here is a usb to serial cable I ordered from newegg.


Here is the pouch of 6 servos that I orderd. here are the specs:
Speed: 0.23 sec/60° @ 4.8V
Torque: 4.4 kg-cm (61 oz-in) at 4.8V
Length: 38.8mm (1.52")
Width: 19.8mm (0.77")
Height: 36.0mm (1.41")
Weight: 40g (1.41oz)

I couldn't find specs for 6.0v which is what I'm running them at. so the torque and speeds are actually higher than listed.


Here is it all put together. You see the SSC-32 Controller, The serial to usb cable, a power cable with switch that plugs into a 6V wall adapeter that I didnt' show, and 2 of the servos.


Programming it was very easy and almost worked the first time around. it didn't because I had the baud rating set wrong, but once I changed a jumper on the board, everyting started to work like a charm.

I sat down and wrote 2 text files. one called open, and one called close.
it was simple 2 line code that simply told the servo where to go and at what speed. thats it.

here is the open code:

#1 P1500 S1000
#3 P1500 S1000

the close is basically the same only with different numbers.

then I wrote two batch files that I loaded into the local computer policy startup and shutdown scripts. that simply send the open and close text files to the com port.

thats it. when I start my computer and it goes into the welcome screen to ask for the user name and password, the 2 servos go to the open position.

then when I shut down, during the time where windows says "saving system settings" there is another one now called running scripts. And that is when the servos move to the close position.

What is cool about this, is I can have it completly automated to open and close all doors automaticaly without hitting anything.

But If I wanted to control something indepentantly, i could. all I have to do is write a .txt file and a batch file. then when i click on the batch file, it will do whatever I want it to. KICK ASS!!!!

I do need to give the good people over at lynxmotion a very large THANK YOU! for helping me get this running and figure all this out. here is a link to the forum Thread I started so they could help me.
If anyone has any questions about motorization or robotics, these guys should be able to help you, they were just as friendly as the people on this forum.

I'm so glad this works... Now, let the modding begin!

08-29-2007, 12:34 AM
Well, I'm glad to see that you got that working. I had planned to do the same thing on my mod. Nice to see that it's so easy.

08-29-2007, 03:07 AM
It's looking GREAT Dan! +rep.

08-29-2007, 05:35 AM
Nice job, getting into writing batch files and stuff is something I find a bit scary, well done for sticking with it and sussing it out!

+rep that man.

The boy 4rm oz
08-29-2007, 07:31 AM
Great job mate, should look great when you get some more of it together.

08-29-2007, 09:09 AM
should look great when you get some more of it together.

Thanks, I've been holding off doing alot of building untill I was sure that the servos would work. I'd hate to go through all that work only to find out I couldn't motorize anything at the end. But now that I know the servos work like I want, I can really start to build all the parts.

the first part of the build, just like the doors and iris is going to be building all the moving parts, doors and windows, I will also work on mounting the 240mm radiator. then I will work on dressing everyting up and making it look good. and lastly, like everyting will come the painting.

The boy 4rm oz
08-29-2007, 10:52 AM
Awesome, can't wait.

08-29-2007, 06:19 PM
nice work mate, i like the servo controller, i think i might order one for myself, never know when i might need it.

Heres hoping they ship to the uk.

08-30-2007, 08:59 AM
Edit: WOOT!!!! 500th post!

Here is what I got done last night.

This is the servo and hardware to actuate the doors.
It includes 4/40 threaded rod, (2) ball ends, and (2) ball joints that will screw into the servo arm and object to be moved. the ball joints allow a full swivel and IMO are the best solution.


I cut a hole in the side of the drive support to allow the actuator arm to extend through to where I am going to mount the servo.

here is the servo mount I made:

and here it is installed:

after adjusting the length of the actuator arm, here it is in the closed position:

and opened position:

Then I started on making the frame for the flip down switch panel:

that is all I got done last night.

The boy 4rm oz
08-30-2007, 09:13 AM
Wow dude, you are a GOD!!! Great work, can't wait to see what else you have up your sleeve.

08-31-2007, 01:32 PM
Last night I worked on making the flip down switch panel.

here it is in the closed position:

and here it is opened.

I then mounted it in the case:

You can see i used the drive mounting slots to mount it.
I also cut a notch to allow the actuator arm to extend into the space beside the drive bays for the servo:

Here it is in the case opened:

I cut a hole to mount the servo in the case:

Then I connected it with linkage the same as the doors below:


Then I mounted the DVD burner above it. -ONLY I realized when I assembled the case at the start, I installed the drive rails upside down. So the screw slots did not match the drive. Oh well, since I only have 1 drive, I just drilled my own holes to mount the dvd burner.



Up next is the 240mm radiator mount, cut a hole in the side of the case for it, and making the louvered shaft for the air vent at the top. FUN FUN!!!!

Edit: I also gave a couple sample pieces of plastic to my friend with the laser cutter to test and see how hard it will be to cut out parts for the Iris. Keep your fingers crossed!

08-31-2007, 02:22 PM

08-31-2007, 03:36 PM
so this is styrene you work with eh?...

DUDE I WANT THAT STUFF SOOOO HARD.. great germany eh? so... dude you know this sh!t ownz this is going to be a siick mod :D have a +rep ;)

08-31-2007, 04:12 PM
OMG man,you never stop to surprising me, this will be so f*cking great:bunny:
Cant wait to see it done.

08-31-2007, 06:06 PM
man this mod no doubt gives inspiration to many people out there reading this thread. cant wait to see the rad mount.

you make me wanna spend 50 bucks on styrene bro :D lol


The boy 4rm oz
08-31-2007, 11:17 PM
That's some fine work there. Some great inspiration.

09-01-2007, 04:32 AM
I had a look in my SLR lens and it had far fewer Iris blades inside. Perhaps you would be better off with fewer blades and a fatter / wider design for them?
I know that when they open they wouldn't be quite so perfectly round but maybe the engineering would be simpler.

Keep up the excellent work!


09-01-2007, 06:40 AM

i like so much the idea of the motorized IRIS. I have found a link i think will be usefull. they produce metal iris and they show in their web site how the iris work. You can see the design to improbe your iris.


dont stop modding :twisted:

The boy 4rm oz
09-01-2007, 08:02 AM
That's a great find, should help dan out a lot. + rep

09-01-2007, 03:50 PM
That switch panel is amazing, well done.

+kudos, 'cos I'm out of rep :(

09-01-2007, 07:10 PM
hey no one has said anything other than the large leaf iris thing, I was thinking, have you tried shaving the edges of the iris blade like or slightly rounded? if you look at alot of sci-fi films and such that have iris's for this and that, most of the time the edges look like you could stick a carrot in the middle and chop through the thing. I'm no pro or anything but I thought I'd throw that out there for you.

also, I was thinking and I didn't really specify, normally the ones I've seen would be rounded on the outer edge, and blade like on the inside, it saves from the blades catching on each other.

just had another thought, it would involve some massive thinking, but you could make every other blade work on another layer, if nothing else, it might be the start to something else that would work?

+ rep cuz it's just so freaking awesome...

09-02-2007, 10:16 AM
I've been studing your iris design and I think maybe the problem is that the blades are just hanging down in the middle with no support.
Therefore when they close the tips tend to hit each other.
I was wondering if you had your window under the blades that would give each blade support in the center when they close and maybe the tips would not hit.

It's a thought the only other soulition I can think of is building the unit like the iris on the webpage link in a previous post.

Other than that looks great I am looking forward to seeing all the motorized parts work.

+ rep for the design


09-02-2007, 12:32 PM
yo if you havent already figured out ur iris thing..JUST BUY ONE ALREADY...buy one from either a optical sciences supplier or for a bigger one (probbaly more ur size) buy one from a theatrical lighting supplier...itll look alot better than on u make at home and alot easier to motorize http://www.citytheatrical.com/
http://www.stagelightingstore.com/ >lighting catalog>lighting accessories

if u have any questions ask me,,,,i used to be a theatrical lighting tech and yea...i can hook u up with links galor..keep going dude i love u mods!!

09-02-2007, 12:51 PM
they way i see it, either a homebuilt iris that will cost around 50 bucks or a prebuilt iris for around $125. ill take the homebuilt option even if its a little harder.
any one can buy an iris, one a select few can actually BUILD one.

09-02-2007, 02:28 PM

i like so much the idea of the motorized IRIS. I have found a link i think will be usefull. they produce metal iris and they show in their web site how the iris work. You can see the design to improbe your iris.


dont stop modding :twisted:

Wow, Nice find! Those are some pretty cool Iris designs. I'm not sure exactly how some of them work. in all the examples the part that moves with the handle makes sense, but it passes over the top of another pin. -confused on that, How does a pin pass through the blade below it? and the other end seems to be free floating. I don't understand what makes it move the way it does. almost moves in a circular pattern. But nice find anyway. Thanks! +rep

As for the other suggestions. Thanks, I really appreciate your guys input. I have redesigned the blades so they have 3 times more overlap than before and will still yield the same size opening. I designed them wider so there would be more material that overlaps each other. that way it should account for the "Slop" in the pins. I am still going to laser cut them when I get back from a work trip on week of the 10th. I've been working on the radiator mount and fans for the top. I should have some pics up later tonight. I'm still undecided about the door for it.


09-02-2007, 04:01 PM
Wow, Nice find! Those are some pretty cool Iris designs. I'm not sure exactly how some of them work. in all the examples the part that moves with the handle makes sense, but it passes over the top of another pin. -confused on that, How does a pin pass through the blade below it? and the other end seems to be free floating. I don't understand what makes it move the way it does. almost moves in a circular pattern. But nice find anyway. Thanks! +rep

i am not sure too, but i think the pins are fron diferent heigth depens of the position of each blade because all the blade are not in the same plane.

i see that de blades have one side locked with a pin and the other end seems to be free floating but it is not if you see there is a red line that makes the blade move in a direction because the blade in that side have "L" form (sorry about my english)

i also see that the iris dont close at all.

09-02-2007, 11:42 PM
i also see that the iris dont close at all.

It is impossible to make one close clompletly due to the thickness of the material. at the center the more layers there are the hard the push against each other to form an overlapping circle. Think about it this way, if you were to lay a bunch of quarters in a circle and have the first one overlap the last one, then by the time you got around to the beginning, everyone would be slanted, or sloped (hope that makes sense).

Don't worry guys, I'll figure it out! That is a promise!!!!

09-03-2007, 12:05 AM
Finally, an update! this is a big one.

I've been working on this the past few nights, so its more than just one's nights work.

I cut out a mounting plate for the radiator:

then I built the air box that will direct the hot air out of the case:




Here it is in the case:

Installed some fans:


Cut a hole in the drive bay mounting bracket so the air would flow throught:



Then I cut 14 louvers for the door:

here are the louvers in place:



Then i cut and drilled a piece of plastic for the actuator arm:



here you can see all the small pieces I had to make with the actuator arm:

I had to heat and bend the actuator arm to fit in the case:

I had to mark and cut an area out of the case to make this work:

and here it is sitting properly:

Closed, you can see the servo I mounted to motorize this:


09-03-2007, 12:06 AM
Wow, only allowed 25 images per post. -That sucks.

Then I added some panels to cover the gaps in the front. The front will be kit bashed so having multiple levels and layers will work to my advantage:


Then I mounted the radiator to the fans:


Lastly I placed the side cover on to mark for the hole I have to cut. the hole will fit around the radiator as it sticks out of the side slightly. -this is intentional, I'm going to make a cover that goes over it and will be mounted to the side panel. but I want to make the side panel removable without having to take the radiator out.

here is a shot with the defunct iris approx where I'm going to install it. the Idea is to have the iris over the cpu area.

thats it for now.

09-03-2007, 12:31 AM
its starting to come together nicely. well done

09-03-2007, 01:07 AM
Great job Dan. You are really coming along nicely with the servos. I hope some of the info I PMed you was able to help you out. +rep

The boy 4rm oz
09-03-2007, 03:05 AM
Mate that looks fantastic, all the hot air wont warm up the components, great idea. Is that Barbie I see on the T.V :0, You don't have a secret do you dan? lol

Jim Beam
09-03-2007, 04:59 AM
Is that Barbie I see on the T.V :0, You don't have a secret do you dan? lol

Nah thats "My Fairy Godparents" I think I see it in passing all 3 of my kids watch it.

The boy 4rm oz
09-03-2007, 05:32 AM
Lol, ok could have fooled me haha.

09-03-2007, 06:17 AM
Wow, you work fast and clean! This looks amazing and you are sticking with your plans! Admirable! +rep for the beautiful work log and craftsmanship.

09-03-2007, 11:33 AM
Mate that looks fantastic, all the hot air wont warm up the components, great idea. Is that Barbie I see on the T.V :0, You don't have a secret do you dan? lol

LOL, I have no idea what that was. probably a commercial or something. my son was watching Sponge Bob Square pants while I was working. I don't really pay attention to what is on tv, I just have it on for background noise.

-funny that that caught YOUR interest though! :think:

09-03-2007, 11:59 AM
You're using styrene for most of the work now, right? Where'd you get it, locally, internet? Know of any hardware stores that carry it?

09-03-2007, 12:19 PM
Minty, here's a link to the page for two of the most common makers of these plastics. I get them at a local store called Hobbytown USA, but I dont know what stores you might have locally.

Plastruct (http://www.plastruct.com/)

Evergreen Scale Models (http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/)

i think he is using these links now. i think your local hobby shops should have them.

09-03-2007, 12:23 PM
Great looking case so far, Renderman. I am really impressed with the iris, that's a great bit of work there. Can't wait to see it all together.

09-04-2007, 12:44 AM
You're using styrene for most of the work now, right? Where'd you get it, locally, internet? Know of any hardware stores that carry it?

Yes, I'm using Styrene, I've found that for anything that would require some type of structural integrity, I should use styrene. for the decorative stuff I'm going to use matt board, much cheaper and easier to cut!

I bought the sheets at a local place called Hobby town. They sell all kinds of modeling supplies as well as remote controlled stuff. planes, cars, trains etc.

FYI, I will be gone for at least 10 days. my work is sending me to Sunny SanFrancisco for a job. So untill I get back, sadly this will have to be put on hold.


09-04-2007, 04:56 AM
Yes, I'm using Styrene, I've found that for anything that would require some type of structural integrity, I should use styrene. for the decorative stuff I'm going to use matt board, much cheaper and easier to cut!

I bought the sheets at a local place called Hobby town. They sell all kinds of modeling supplies as well as remote controlled stuff. planes, cars, trains etc.

FYI, I will be gone for at least 10 days. my work is sending me to Sunny SanFrancisco for a job. So untill I get back, sadly this will have to be put on hold.


Have fun on your trip and welcome to California. I'm about 30 minutes from San Fran. Bring your jacket, it's almost always chili there (50s - 60s). Lately, it's been pretty nice though.

09-04-2007, 09:20 AM
thanks for the weather update. I didn't realize it was going to be that chilly there. I'll have to bring some jeans and a jacket!

09-04-2007, 11:22 AM
looking sweet dude.

i donlt know if its me or if the pic is off, but when the vents open for the rad, are a few of them off angle, i think it may juist be the image making it look that way,


09-11-2007, 04:16 PM
Hey guys, -Sorry I've been a way for a while. I'm down in San Francisco working on measuring a hotel. -Won't be able to get back till next week sometime. -This is alot of work. I'm putting in 11-12 hr days straight. We also don't get unlimited internet access. We have to pay for it, so my boss today said we could get it for 1 hr to check our email. So I've obviously been using my time more wisely and checking the TBCS Forum! -Don't have time to go into alot of detail but I've got a new idea for the case, I'll fill you guys in next week.


09-12-2007, 07:31 PM
Sweet, I can't wait.. I've been checking almost daily for updates. This project has really motivated me to start gathering supplies and materials to get into styrene modeling.. hope to see new info soon..


09-18-2007, 03:46 AM
Wow, I dont know how I missed this. Another person using styrene for their mod! Great job Dan, it's coming along awesomely! I am looking forward to seeing this come together. All the servo work is sweet too.

+rep! :D

09-18-2007, 11:52 AM
Hey everyone, I'm finally back from my trip. -God that was long.
I should be able to get back on this today sometime. Just trying to catch up on some sleep first.

09-18-2007, 01:41 PM
Enjoy your sleep dan! :D

09-19-2007, 12:00 AM
I'm new to the forum bought saw your iris and had to post. I know in woodworking if we need identical peices we stick them all together and cut and sand it as one piece. I'm not sure if this is possible with styrene though having never used it

09-19-2007, 09:26 AM
I'm new to the forum bought saw your iris and had to post. I know in woodworking if we need identical peices we stick them all together and cut and sand it as one piece. I'm not sure if this is possible with styrene though having never used it

That is a good point. In fact I have tried that method but what happens with Styrene is it the thicker the material gets, the hotter it makes the blade when you cut it, then at a certain point, it just starts to melt the styrene together, then you have a real mess!

Thanks though. and Welcome to TBCS!

09-19-2007, 09:54 AM
Finally the long awaited update!!!

I picked right up where I left off.
Because the Radiator will stick out of the side of the case sligtly, I traced the perimeter of the radiator on the side panel. -Man working with clear material really makes this easy!!!


Then I cut it out.

And here it is on the case. You can see how much it sticks out.

The idea is to build a cover that goes over the radiator. but you can still remove the side panel without taking the radiator out. -That will make it much easier to work on.

Then I turned my attention to the hard drive mounts.
Here is the one that came with the sunbeam case.

I turned the case upside down. So your looking at the bottom of the case in this one. -I drilled some holes to mount the verticle drive sides to the bottom.

but I decided that I would never need 5 spaces. so to make some room, I cut them down shorter.

Then I simply screwed them to the bottom of the case.

here it is with a old defunct hard drive as a test fit. I have room for 2 drives.

Next up was the fan controller. Here is the one out of my current case:

I took off the bay cover I made earlier. and made a new on out of styrene.

The idea here is to have it motorize out of the side of the case in a tilting motion. The servo will be mounted to one side of the verticle arms.

here is the servo horn attached to the side piece.

And here it is on all together.

The last part I did for the night was to round off the bottoms of the verticle legs.

I still have to assemble it, mount it, cut the hole in the side of the case etc. etc.

Untill next time.... Happy modding :)

The boy 4rm oz
09-19-2007, 10:20 AM
Fantastic work as always dan, keep it up. Can't wait to see how the iris is going by the way.

09-19-2007, 02:27 PM
Nice.. Man, I think you have been gifted with mod powers! Great work.. more.. more! :)

09-19-2007, 02:34 PM
Yeah, we want more... Please tell me you are going to work on this some more tonight?

09-21-2007, 03:24 PM
ok, here is another update.

I decided that I needed to remake the side bars for the fan controller. i shouldn't have rounded both ends. so i made these:


here they are installed on the fan controller. -I had to make them longer due to the sides, front and back because of the depth of the knobs and switches.


Then I made the mounting plate for the bottom:

I added some gussets for strength and to limit flexing of the mounts.

This is where it will go in the case.

Then I laid the side cover over it and drew an outline as to where the cut the panel:

here it is cut out. -the bottom of the panel is cut at an angle due to the motion of the panel. the top angles out, but the bottom angles inward.

here it is mounted with the side panel:

here it is angled out.



And here it is with the clear side panel mounted to it. -Its clear because I want light to be able to transmit through. but most will be covered.

That is one more motorized part done. Now its on to the IRIS and one other item. I have to include usb ports, a SD media card reader, and I'd like to include a water temperature gauge somewhere, but I'm not sure what to do to motorize it. anyone have any ideas? Ive got lots of room directly above the fan controller. I was thinking about a tube that motorizes out from the side of the case...
I was thinking about getting one of these: http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-t-type-water-temperature-indicator.html anyone have any experience with it?


09-21-2007, 03:58 PM
As a pre-made option for the iris, how about a follow spot light drop in iris (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/494621-REG/Altman_S4DII_Drop_In_Iris_for_Source.html)?


09-21-2007, 06:38 PM
here are a couple reviews of the temp monitor.

MADSHRIMS review (http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&number=1&artpage=1471&articID=368)

RBMODs review (http://www.rbmods.com/Articles/Thermaltake/Watercooling_products/1.php)

09-21-2007, 08:24 PM
Thanks for the review links. +rep

09-22-2007, 03:15 AM

I have the same water temp sensor you are thinking about. I haven't had any problems with it at all. I agree with the first review. The sensor is not entirely accurate, but I feel it does the job. The pics below are of my system. I took them tonight so you could see the temp difference. You can see the thermaltake sensor, and the other temperatur is taken using a commercial temperature gun. I am dismanteling it to use in my mod.;)

My water circuit is as follows:
res, pump, rad, cpu, vga, thermaltake sensor, back to res.
I have the temp gun in the res, right after the sensor (about 10" of tubing away from the sensor).
Can anyone say, 'Cable Management'?

- Remy

BTW, Welcome back from SF. You got out just before the rain got here.

09-22-2007, 12:05 PM
Remy, Thanks for the pics. Interesting idea about the commercial thermometer. Is that an infrared or laser thermometer? if so that may be why you are seeing a big difference in temps. the Thermaltake is actually measuring the water temperature with direct contact. as where an infrared will only measure the temperature surface. -that is just a best guess so, so don't quote me on that. :) +rep to you.

I'm going to order one of those as soon as I figure out what else I need. I like to combine orders to save on shipping.


09-24-2007, 02:35 PM
I placed my order for the Thermaltake temp monitor and a few 120mm turbine fans that I'm going to replace the fans in the turbine mod. They look alot more like a turbine than the ones I had. here are the ones I ordered. http://www.xoxide.com/aerocool-xtreme-turbine-2000-black.html

Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to motorize the temperature monitor panel along with a sd media card reader and some usb ports. -Any ideas???? I'm open to any new ideas. I'm trying to do something different with each motorized item.

09-25-2007, 09:46 AM
Rather than motorize the panel they are mounted to, you could motorize the panel you are going to use to hide it. Maybe have it slide in like a solid door garage, where they lift up and then slide in.

09-25-2007, 09:50 AM
hmmmmm. Interesting. -that gives me some ideas...

The boy 4rm oz
09-26-2007, 10:21 AM
Fantastic work so far mate, when all the servos are working it will look great.

09-26-2007, 05:36 PM
We need an update... Im diein here.......

Looks good so far


09-27-2007, 12:39 AM
I got some more done tonight. I'll post an update tomorrow when I'm at work. It takes too long for me to upload the pictures from home and its pretty late.

09-27-2007, 01:00 AM
haven't been following this as much as i should but +rep for keeping this thing going, oh and for the AWESOME work your doing!

09-27-2007, 09:48 AM
Thanks Spawn,

Sorry its been taking so long for an update. My Chron's flared up and I haven't been feeling well. But after another Cat scan and $80 in meds, I'm starting to feel better.... That is untill the next flare up.

So as promised, here is an update.

I measured and drilled 4 holes and mounted some stud in the back side of the drive rack. They are kind of hard to pick out in the picture but if you look close, you can see them.


These studs are to mount the servo controller.


I came up with an idea for how to motorize the temperature monitor, USB ports, Reset switch, SD Media card reader etc. -Basically, I wanted a panel that would move and be replaced with an identical panel only with the stuff mounted to it. I thought about haveing doors open, then pull back and have the panel exposed, or move forward, or whatever. Then I just decided to have a triangular panel rotate around that had the same size. So I started with 2 Equilateral Triangular pieces.


Then I found the center and drilled some holes.

I mounted a servo horn, just like I did for the fan controller.

Then I had to remove a large section of the drive bay support to mount the servo. here it is in its location (un mounted).

I then made 2 panels and glued it together. This is one side.

This is the "Back" side. Its left open to mount the objects and for wireing.

Then I made some servo mounts.

And finally mounted it to the case.

Here it is with the panel attached.

I still have to make a mount for the other side to pivot on so it won't Flop around.

Here is an overall shot of everything in the case. FYI Its lying on the front of the case.

Thats all I got done last night. It was getting late so I decided to leave off there.


The boy 4rm oz
09-27-2007, 11:28 AM
Mate you really know your stuff. Fantastic work so far. +rep

09-27-2007, 01:13 PM
Looking AWESOME!

09-27-2007, 03:57 PM
Looking cool... I can't wait to see how this all fits together and works when it's finished... so, is acrylic nice to work with? (Someone posted thread about it but I'm a little slow atm, system resources are being used by other functions. Allocate more memory to desired task or upgrade your RAM to continue...)

09-27-2007, 06:53 PM
Wow... This is looking freaking cool.

/me subscribes, then wonders why he didn't subscribe before. :D


09-27-2007, 07:39 PM
Sweet! Thats all I have to say.

The boy 4rm oz
09-28-2007, 07:03 AM
Haha and that's all you need to say lol.

09-28-2007, 09:26 AM
I"m really glad you guys like it!!!! and thank you to all who have +repped me.

Small update today.

I built a small verticle support for the end of the rotating panel.


Then I laid the clear side over to mark out where to cut the openeing.


5 minutes later with a dremel, and Voila. an opening cut in the panel.

Here you can see it in the closed position with the panel on.

here you can see it with it opened partially. -Fully opened looks the same as it is when closed.

Then for lateral stability, I cut a small section of the scrap from part of the case that had one of those brass threaded inserts in it and glued it to the side. then I drilled and counter sunk a hole in the side of the case. This will hold the end so it doesnt move front to back.


and here it is with the screw in it.

Ok, that part is done. -I'm still waiting on my Temperature monitor that UPS says will be deliverd on Monday. I then can mount it and the the other stuff in the panel. Untill then, the only thing I really have to work on is the IRIS. but I'm still waiting on my buddy witht he laser cutter. I'm at his mercy so I don't know when that will get done.

I suppose I could start to work cleaning things up, mounting the power switch, switches in the front, remote dvd eject button, lights, mounting the turbine, painting, fan wireing, programing the controller, blah blah blah. Crap, I have alot to do!!!!!!!!!

The boy 4rm oz
09-28-2007, 10:21 AM
Once again flawless mate, I really hope the iris works out for you.

10-01-2007, 08:58 AM
Hey guys,

Just another small update today. I'm still waiting on that delivery so I decided to work the remote eject button for the dvd burner, and stealth it. I removed the cover off the drive and located the 2 solder joints that I needed to solder wires to.


I will hook these wires up to a switch located in motorized panel.

Then I cut a face plate for the front.
Here are the 3 pieces. the top piece is a spacer for the drawer.

Glued it to the front of the drive.

and here it is with the drawer closed.

and ejected.

Then I simply mounted it back in the case.

Currently it is still a rectangular panel, but I will add onto that later.

Thats it for now.

The boy 4rm oz
10-01-2007, 09:05 AM
Nice work.

10-01-2007, 02:20 PM
Finally my package arrived. I ordered a thermaltake temperature monitor and 2 turbine fans to replace the ones in the turbine. Man do they look sweet. They will really add to the "look" of the turbine! not to mention 2 of them on the radiator is going to push some serious air. 89CFM each. -I'm going to take the 2 thermaltake fans I have on there now and move them to the 240mm radiator in the case. then take those case fans (the sunbeam ones) and put on in the rear of the case. I also have another thermaltake fan to use in the front intake of the case. I wont' be able to get to it tonight because of Bowling so I should get to work on it tuesday night.

Today I placed an order for some black sleeving, a vandal resistand bulgin power switch and some water cooling fittings. I also had to get some servo extension wires for a couple of the servos. :)


10-01-2007, 08:32 PM
That stealthed dvd drive technique looks familiar :) Nice job.

10-02-2007, 08:55 AM
That stealthed dvd drive technique looks familiar :) Nice job.

Thanks, but I'm not done yet. there is still another panel to be added later on.

10-02-2007, 01:56 PM

I'm set to meet my friend with the laser cutter today at 3:00pm. Hopefully with any amount of luck, I will have all the parts cut today!

Everyone keep your fingers crossed for me please!

10-02-2007, 02:04 PM

{sound of fingers crossing ;)}
and good luck! btw, time-zone-difference-to-blame, how many hours left till 3? :)

10-02-2007, 02:47 PM
lol, sorry. right now its 1:46 pm. -in addition to the IRIS parts, I'm working on some final layouts of stuff I'm going to have laser cut. Might as well get as much cut as possible while I can.

10-02-2007, 02:52 PM
Looks crazy complicated. Keep going. + rep to ya!

10-03-2007, 11:10 AM
I have some good news and some bad news.

First the good news. here is an update on the progress.

Here is what I got in the mail yesterday. 2 turbine fans to replace the thermaltake fans in the turbine mod. and the Water temperature monitor.


I replaced the fans in the Turbine Mod. I think the fins really make it look more like a turbine.


Next are the electronics that I'm going to mount in the side motorized panel.
It consits of a SD Media card reader, USB ports and reset switch and the Temperature Monitor.


So I started to layout the placement on the panel.

then I cut the holes.

I then glued the media card reader and added some gussets for support to the back side.

Then I cut the switch board that came with the case kit to seperate the usb ports.

and I mounted them in the panel.

here is the back side.

next I de-soldered one of the reset switches.

and mounted it in the panel.

Here it is will everything so far.


and I reinstalled it back in the case.

I stil lhave to install a HDD light and some more status monitors like maybe the dvd activity light and others. -Not sure about the design of those yet.

The last small thing I did was mount one of the nose caps that came with the turbine fans onto a thermaltake fan that will become the intake fan.

Now for the bad news. The IRIS is not going to happen. Yesterday my Friend and I worked on getting the parts laser cut. Basically the machine is only a Laser etcher, not a cutter. Although it will cut through material, the time it would take and the number of passes would basically talk way too long.

there were 4 sheets total that needed to be cut. 2 sheets were .030 thick and 2 were .100 thick. We started with the .030 sheet. and after 20 minutes, it was only 1/4 of the way through the entire sheet. but that was just about 1/4 through the thickness as well. So if you run the numbers thats 80 minutes per pass X 4 passes = over 5 hours for 1 sheet. Now the .100 sheet is over 3 times as thick and would take all day to cut. so I'd be looking at around 3 days total of cutting. -keep in mind you can't tell it to run multiple passes, you have to tell it to send each pass after its done. I can't tell it to keep running all night long, and this is located at a High school on the other side of town for me. -So basically due to time restraints. I can't get the pieces cut.

Also, the piece it did etch. I noticed that the edges wern't smooth either. they were somewhat "Melted" from the laser. so I would have to sand everything down and I'd be back to where I started.

So my here are my 2 options. I can try and rebuild it from scratch and hope it works again using some other method of aligning the holes, or I can come up with a different idea to have a motorized cover over a window in my case that will still be cool, but not an Iris.

What do you guys think I should do?

10-03-2007, 11:37 AM
I really dont know what else to say,exept ZOMFGhttp://www.benchmark.co.yu/forum/images/smilies/vb_hair.gif this is surely one of the best modds i ever seen in my life,and i've seen a lot of them.
I've tried to give you +rep again,but i cant to do that atm.:D

10-03-2007, 11:53 AM
Hmm. What about doors that would swing out of the way. Think Lady bug wings. 2 half circles, rotating out of the way. Or you could do 4. And you could make them overlap and shave as necessary.
I also would give rep, as the story goes.

10-03-2007, 12:13 PM
hmm... you should try to have the iris made in a different way, manually.. the link few pages back about the iris principle and possible mechanisms was cool.... And maybe you could make the iris in 2 layers.. use a very thin window between and have the blades alternating.. when the iris is closed, it should overlap so no light comes in/out.. when it is opened, it is opened. The thin window would allow this. Could look interesting.. I didn't quite manage to make a working 3d model of an iris, so I can't really show what I mean.. Instead of having half an iris on each plane, you would have alternating blades.. it would have a unique look. And you could do an etch to match..

Oh, and the panel looks awesome :)

EDIT: if all fails, don't lose the iris.. try having lots of patience ;) and do it the laser way. slowly.... . ..

10-03-2007, 02:45 PM
or ask b417, he got many mills at his modding station, maybe he could mill you something..for money or reps :D :D

10-04-2007, 01:45 PM
small update. I got some more parts in the mail today. -power switch, sleeving kit, some elbow fittings, some servo extensions and some more hardware (nuts and washers).

I also picked up some clear printer sheets for making the button and switch iluminated labels.


10-04-2007, 07:18 PM
How about another laser cutter?


I've used these folks in the past to cut 1/8" & 1/4" plexi. He does good work but can be difficult to get a hold of sometimes.

The other direction that you may consider is an iris valve (http://www.powderandbulk.com/pb_services/ask_joe_archive/what_is_an_iris_valve.htm) or a variant of a scissor valve (http://www.apakinc.com/packaging/product/210-6.html) with 2 scissor joints mounted at 180 degree to one another.

10-05-2007, 09:29 AM
Ok, here is another update.

I worked on some of the labeling for the parts. I started with the fan controller. So I made a built a channel to enclose the leds.

Then I made the lables. Basically these are laser printed onto clear printer sheets with sticky backing. then I stuck them to a translucent piece of plastic.

here it is mounted in the panel.

and here it is lit up. I only connected 1 fan but you should get the idea.

and here it is back in the case.

Next I turned my attention to the Hard drive activity light.

This time I just cut an opening in the panel and installed the label behind it.

To illuminate it, I made a box with a hole in the back for an led.

Then I just glued it behind the panel.

While I was at it, I sleeved the led for the HDD.

Lastly, I worked on the front switch panel.

Using the same methods as before. here it is.


The center switch is the dvd eject button. I still have to install the other switches as soon as I take them out of my current case. :)


The boy 4rm oz
10-05-2007, 10:15 AM
Jesus man, looks fantastic. Your attention to detail is remarkable. Keep up the good work.

10-07-2007, 12:20 PM
wow... looking good.

10-08-2007, 09:21 AM
Hope everyone had a good Productive weekend. I did.

I added a "Logo" to the monitor panel.

and I installed the switches in the front panel. I still have to wire everyting up.

Then I turned my attention to the side panel where the IRIS was going to go. I decided to go with a different idea. One that starts to show you guys what the overall theme of this case is about. Its called motorized madness, and when I think of Motors, I think of gears. So to continue that theme, I figured I might as well have some moving gears in the case. So I drew up some gears and made a "quarter" gear that will rotate out of the way to reveal the window behind. Here is the drawing.

I cut it out using the scroll saw.

Then I drilled a hole and mounted the servo to the side panel. This will be the only thing attached to the side panel that will have to be "unplugged" when I take of the panel.

I added a thin sheet to the back side of the gear so it will hide the window.
here it attached to the servo.

From the back side you can see where the window will be. -There are 2 fan holes that will have to be closed. So I cut a small piece to fill in the Gap where the fan openenign was. and Cut out the window opening.


Then I cut a template and a piece of plexi to use for the window.

Here you can see the plexi window glued into position, and then on the front, I glued the trim plate. so you don't see the joint. This view is from the back.

Then to make it look more like a half gear, I cut out another one on the scroll saw for the bottome "Channel".


I added some sides to the bottom piece and glued it to the side panel. -Basically from the side, it looks like 1/2 of a gear, but the top rotates down into the "channnel" that is created .


Here is the side panel with everything closed.

and now with everything open.

I know alot of you are dissapointed that I coudn't get the iris to work. Believe me, I'm the most dissapointed. I tried building it 3 times and wasted about $40 in materials. but It just wouldn't close right. Every time It would be perfect in the opened position, and then get all screwed up when closed, or it wouldn't close at all. I gave a valiant effort, but at some time I had to say enough was enough and move on to a different idea. I hope everyone likes it. Its obviously a much simpler design and not as cool as the iris, but I think it ties to the theme of the case nicely.

So stay tuned. The moving panels and parts are completed, now comes the fun part of covering all of it, so you don't see it!


10-08-2007, 09:30 AM
Wow this whole project is coming along great. Too bad you couldn't get the iris to work but I really like your new idea to replace it.

10-08-2007, 10:41 AM
This is all looking very smooth and professional. I love all the fun moving parts you have incorporated so far and I am very impressed with your precise and clean workmanship. Keep up the good work!

I love the little labels that you have made to be backlit by LED's. Are they easy to do? Perhaps you could show us how you made those little labels.


+ Rep

10-08-2007, 05:10 PM
Actually the labels were quite easy. I went to my local hobby lobby and picked up some clear printer label sheets with adhesive backing. -6 sheets for $10. then using photoshop I typed out the text and made a reverse image of it so the background would print black and not print the actuall lettering. Then I just printed them out and stuck them to a sheet of semi-translucent plastic. I think it was supposed to used to cut your own stencils. I got that at hobby lobby too. Then I just cut the shape to size and glued it on.

The black from the laser print looks pretty good. although i wish it were a little darker. you can kind of see through it a tada. but I can live with that. I also tried printing it twice to darken it up. but I had a hard time getting it to print in the exact spot each time. -Not sure how well it would do on an inject, or in color.

10-08-2007, 07:03 PM
Very nice Dan! I think the gears are a perfect match for your theme. I would even go so far as to suggest adding a few more smaller ones here and there, or maybe do some gear fan grills to compliment the main gear/window.

I can't wait to see this all painted up with the details!

10-09-2007, 09:13 AM
LOL, way ahead of you, here is one of my designs. The shaded areas would be windows or frosted windows as well!!! -Maybe now you understand why I started with an acrylic case?


The boy 4rm oz
10-09-2007, 09:59 AM
Nice design, if your frosting the plexi mask off the area and use wet sand sand paper, works great, especially on clear plexi.

10-09-2007, 03:26 PM
looking awsome dan!
a shame that the iris wouldnt work, bit its a nice alternative


10-11-2007, 09:41 AM
Thanks to all of you!

I've been working on the gears.
Here is the first one.


I mounted it above the window opening and added a frosted sheet behind to give it that "translucent" feel. I also started to cover the panel where I dont' want light comming through. -Particularly around the radiator.


I orderd some mesh from MNPCTECH.com for the Radiator cover. -That should get here tomorrow.
Then I worked on cutting out some more of the gears. All that detail takes some time to cut out.


Thats it for now.

The boy 4rm oz
10-11-2007, 09:46 AM
Looks nice mate, that frosted plexi suits your mod really well.

10-14-2007, 10:36 AM
Wow! That looks amazing.
I can recommend sandblasting on clear plexi if you want only some details to become frosted.
Do you have servos left to make some of the gears rotate? You can easily mod the servos so they can rotate unlimited.

The boy 4rm oz
10-14-2007, 10:49 AM
Awesome idea Squelsh, that would look insane.

10-14-2007, 01:00 PM
I love this mod!

10-14-2007, 02:32 PM
Man that is some sick styrene cutting skills you have there!
What are you using to cut the holes with?
Oh and by the way great job on the mod!

And for the styrene cutting skills +rep


10-15-2007, 09:42 AM
Thanks you guys!

-Wannabe, I'm using a scroll saw to cut all the gears. The holes are cut with drill bits and A stepped drill bit set.

Here is my progress over the weekend.

I covered the entire side in Thin sheets of styrene. I used tape to hold the piece there temporarily.

Then I laid out where the gears would go.

This process is the same for all the translucent gear parts.
-1st. I cut a circle slighly smaller than the gear.

Then I frost the plexi in that area.

Then I glue the gear over the top.

Here you can see that there are 4 gears, (holes) that will be frosted and the rest will be just decoration.

Here it is with all the gears applied.

and opened.

Next I worked on the cover for the Radiator.
I made some 1/2" tall sides to make a frame around the radiator.

Then I cut a top trim piece.

and I glued some Modders Mesh to the underside.

then I glued the entire thing to the side panel.


Remember, this panel is removable!
I still have to cut 2 more gears to go over the modders mesh as show in the sketch in a previous post.

Thats it for now. -Cheers!

The boy 4rm oz
10-15-2007, 10:32 AM
Holy crap Batman!!!! This looks fantastic. If I may make a suggestion, wouldn't it be better to use slightly thicker styrene for the gears to make them stand out just a little bit more. After all gears are usually chunky but either way looks fantastic mate.

EDIT: are you going to back light the frosted plexi?

10-15-2007, 11:49 AM
Yeah, some of the gears are thicker than others. There are actually 3 different thickness there. Just hard do see due to the flash of the camera and that everything is the same white color. -I plan on painting everyting and the gears will stand out alot more once its painted. -It will follow my Turbine mod with the weathered and rusted look of an old machine. But thanks for your suggestion!

10-15-2007, 01:28 PM
This is an awesome mod!

I'd rep you, but I have to spread it around a bit first.

EDIT: finally repped you... took long enough...

10-15-2007, 03:25 PM
Love it! You've got serious talent dude!

10-15-2007, 05:22 PM
gonna look soooooooo amazing when painted! (if its gonna get painted heh? :D)

The boy 4rm oz
10-16-2007, 03:56 AM
No problem mate. Looks fantastic.

10-19-2007, 09:03 AM
Sorry guys, Its been a few days and I haven't gotten much done. Been swamped at work and other stuff going on. so I just have a few pics today.

I cut out 2 more gears to go over the radiator.


then I just glued them on.


-Thats all I've gotten done. LOL. Sorry I know its not much, but hey, a little progress is at least some progress right?

The boy 4rm oz
10-19-2007, 09:22 AM
Looks good, they ALL look good. I like how you have made them all interlock.

10-19-2007, 11:36 AM
you are officially too good at this stuff... +rep

10-21-2007, 10:15 AM
Wow dude, you are going all out! The gears look great!

10-22-2007, 09:22 AM
Thanks again you guys for the support!

I got some odds and ends done this weekend. I started with the relay for servo controller. This will allow the controller to turn on and off with the computer. It has its own 6V power supply.

And here is the power connector and manual switch to turn it on and off.
You can also see where I mounted the Water pump.

Next I took the side panel off and filled some of the holes and gaps with filler.

And then sanded them down.

I also worked on the front switch panel. Here is the back side without much wiring. The wiring that is there is for the dvd eject tray.

After appling 5v to 1 switch and 12v to the other 3, here is the wireing mess. I tried to add some black wire sleeving to clean things up. But I don't think I can get any better than this.

After all the wireing was done. I added the led lights to light up the panel.
These got wired in directly to the power comming into the panel.
-I also replaced the styrene bars that make the hinges of the panel with some Carbon Fiber bars. The styrene bent way to much.

Here is what it looks like from the front. -Looks like there some light comming through some holes that will require filler.

I also started to cover the front of the case.

I added some trim around the top vent.

I also added the final dvd try cover and some additional trim pieces. -I have a lot more to go.

The last thing I worked on was the Part of the logo for the other side of the case. Here it is partially cut out on the scroll saw.

and here is the final piece.

Thats it for now. -Cheers!

The boy 4rm oz
10-22-2007, 09:25 AM
Your right, it did get a bit messy but well worth it lol. Great work.

10-22-2007, 09:57 AM
wow amazing job on the switch panel & the logo!

10-22-2007, 07:08 PM
Agreed! those things are hot!!!

10-26-2007, 09:32 AM
Here's the next update.

-I decided to take a break from case a little bit and worked on the base unit.

I started with three 7"X12" pieces of thick styrene.

I glued them together to make one large sheet.

Then I cut some 1" high strips and glued them around the perimeter. I left openings on the front and both sides for some motorized trays. -YES more motorized stuff!

Then I cut some 1/8" diameter solid carbon fiber rods. I chose carbon fiber for its rigidity.

I cut some more 1" high strips and drilled some holes for the rods. -Basically these rods will act as rails for the trays to slide in and out on.

Here are the sleeves that go over the carbon fiber rods.

Here is one of the trays. On the bottom side it has the 2 sleeves.

Here it is on the front in the closed position.

And here it is in the open position.

Then I made 2 more for the sides.


Then to make things move. I drilled and installed a ball joint just like some of the previous motorized parts.

I drilled and cut holes in the supports so the threaded rod will converge on a central pivot point.

The servo horn that came with supplied was too small and would not give enough horizontal movement, so I made a larger one.

After making a mounting block and attaching the servo horn in place. Here are all 3 trays hooked up with the linkage to make them slide in and out. THis is the closed position.

Here they are in the open position.

To mount the servo, this is the approximate location. I ran out of ball joints so I have to go get some more before I can continue.

-I should be able to get the base finished this weekend.

10-26-2007, 10:06 AM
OMG,OMG this thing is so awesome,i can now surely said that this is,not one of,but THE BEST MOD i've ever seen in my life.
Im still in schock:D

10-26-2007, 10:16 AM
Very very nice. +rep

The boy 4rm oz
10-26-2007, 11:27 AM
What can I say, you are WAY to good at this lol. +rep

10-26-2007, 11:56 AM
nice work m8!..

guess i missed something but whats gonna be in the motorized trays?

10-26-2007, 12:12 PM
nice work m8!..

guess i missed something but whats gonna be in the motorized trays?

...stuff? :D :D

10-26-2007, 12:23 PM
guess i missed something but whats gonna be in the motorized trays?

The tray areas is about 1.5" deep and the widths are around 6" and 10". -So whatever I put there has to be pretty small.

So, at first I'm going to have some led's that shine up and light up the sides of the case.
I also thought about putting an LCD disply in there like this one. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=141&products_id=20599
But I'm not sure if I can make it fit. -Probably have to take it apart and solder wires to remotely mount the disply away from the electronics. has anyone done something like this?

-not sure what else to put there. -Any suggestions?

The boy 4rm oz
10-26-2007, 12:40 PM
No I haven't but it sounds difficult and lots of things could go wrong.

10-26-2007, 02:49 PM
Perhaps put a fan or three on the underside of the computer and make it so when the trays open they get better airflow?

10-26-2007, 03:50 PM
How about placing the LCD so that when the tray opens the LCD rotates out of the tray. This would allow for a slightly larger LCD to be hidden inside.
Here is a simple drawing in paintbrush to help illistrate what I mean.
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/862/traywithlcdmb2.th.png (http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=traywithlcdmb2.png)

I think you could even take that front tray and drop the center of the tray to give you more room for the mechanics of moving the LCD out of the tray.

And if you haven't heard this enough, Awsome work.

Just thought of a way this might work nicely. What if you add a screw drive to one side of the LCD and mount a nut about 1" up from the bottom of the LCD, Then when the tray opens the screw drive kicks in and pushes the LCD forward. Youe would probably need a ramp or something inside the front of the tray to push it up and over the tray cover. (The LCD is not really attached to the tray, only hiddeen behind it). Then all you need is a mecanism to push the bottom of the LCD forwad when it reaches its full extension. The pushing would then cause the LCD to move itself into a vertical position.

10-28-2007, 04:56 PM
Thanks for the suggestions guys. After I looked at it some more, the trays really dont' extend all that far out, so I just decided to put some led's that light up the sides of the case. -See the final pics and I think you will agree, that it looks great!.

I picked up a few more ball ends and got the servo for the trays installed.


So then it was time to start on the top of the base. I cut and glued a frame -smaller than the size of the bottom.


then I cut some stand offs and glued them to the framwork of the base.


then i glued on the top.

next I started to fill in the gap with some more Sytrene.


Here it is all done.


This is what it looks like with the case on top.


Here you can see the led's I installed in each tray.

And here is what it looks like in the dark.


I'm going to be covering alot of the base in kit-bashing type work. But for now, What do you guys think?

10-28-2007, 07:35 PM
%^$Ģing' Ace!!!

10-28-2007, 07:41 PM
impressive what that styrene can hold :O... where do you buy that stuff:D

10-28-2007, 07:41 PM
WOW,,,.... That is so damn awesome. I love it. Hey...... Il trade you the BF2 case for it :D. lol j/k. I couldn't take that from you. Its to nice.

10-29-2007, 09:46 AM
Well, I'm a little pissed off today. -3 things happend.

1st. I went to install my Bulgin Iluminated power switch. I prewired it before putting it in the case for both power and led light. -The switch works great. but guess what. the led doesn't work correctly. It goes in and out because the connector on the back is loose or something. When I wiggle the connector on the back it flickers the light. -I'm going to give performance-pcs.com a call later today to see if they will RMA it.

2nd. Some of the led's that I installed in the base trays. -3 of them went out on me. I got them from Lsdiodes.com -I wondering if they are really cheap, and if these 3 went out, what will happen to the others? I don't have any more to replace them.

And 3rd. -The Rockies suck ass! -They could have at least shown up to the game.

-Very frustrated right now!

The boy 4rm oz
10-29-2007, 09:52 AM
Could you please take a pic of how you wired the switch up. I have a switch with 3 pins (2 power and one LED) and I don't quite know how to wire it properly. I know one of the wires is ground because when I use it on the LED connector nothing happens. Do I have to splice the other wire so I can attach it to the switch on/off terminals and the LED?

10-29-2007, 10:27 AM
Sorry, but I already de-soldered it and put it back in its packaging to send back.

By the way you are describing your switch. It has the 2 terminals for the switch and one negative ground terminal for the led. your switch is probably not momentary.

-See the diagram below. -the swith must control the flow of positive power whatever your switching, like a light. then the positive feeds the led and that is why it needs its own ground.
Not sure what the exact layout of your wires on the switch is though. You can test this with a simple electrical ohm meter.


Hope that helps.

10-29-2007, 10:33 AM
Some of the led's that I installed in the base trays. -3 of them went out on me. I got them from Lsdiodes.com -I wondering if they are really cheap, and if these 3 went out, what will happen to the others? I don't have any more to replace them.

I've got tons I could spare.. what colors/sizes do you need, and how many?


10-29-2007, 10:42 AM
It's very unlike and LEDs, no matter how cheap, to just go so soon like that. There must have been a short somewhere in the circuit

10-29-2007, 10:49 AM
Yeah, I thought so too, but they were working for a while. -I was working on another part of the case while they were on and I looked up and they suddenly 3 of them were off. -not sure what happened. -you can see that they were working in this pic. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h205/rendermandan/Motorized%20Madness%20Case/100_3045.jpg

I got a RMA number to send the $20 switch back. hopefully the next will work!

10-29-2007, 02:54 PM
eiteher way dude, that looks &^%*&G sweet dude

Darth Dad
10-29-2007, 03:50 PM
This is one sweet mod!

On a different note don't let the Chron's get you down. My mother got diagosed with it in her early 20's and is still going strong now in her mid 60's.

10-29-2007, 05:26 PM
This is one sweet mod!

On a different note don't let the Chron's get you down. My mother got diagosed with it in her early 20's and is still going strong now in her mid 60's.

Thanks for the words of encouragment, I appreciate it!

10-29-2007, 08:22 PM
I missed the chrons deal somewhere. Sorry about that. My mom, and aunt have it, and my grandmother had it. Grandma was in her 70's (didn't take care of it like she should have), and my mom and her sister are both in their 50's. Just regulate with diet. If you haven't tried it yet, my mom said that remacade worked well for her.

This mod is looking sweet. I can't wait to see more!

10-29-2007, 09:40 PM
Remicade is effective but expensive as hell, hope your insurance is good.

I absolutely love how this mod is turning out, the light playing off those gears is awesome! Can't wait to see the videos! *hint

The boy 4rm oz
10-29-2007, 09:41 PM
That lighting looks awesome mate. Sorry I forgot to add that my switch isn't momentary, it's one of those rocker switches (ones that come stock with standard CCFL kits). Thanks for your help though, looks like I have to do a bit of soldering. +rep for the help mate and an INSANE mod

EDIT: need to spread some rep first :(

10-30-2007, 09:16 AM
Can't wait to see the videos! *hint

Working on it. -I have alot of wiring to get done first before I can power it up. -not to mention individual programming of each servo for start location, end location, speed and timing between other servos. -going to take some work there. -But I will get a video going soon. :)

10-31-2007, 09:25 AM
Just ask, and ye shall receive.

-all I did last night was mount the base to the case. -sorry for the crappy picture. Not sure what happened. -I simply drilled and tapped a few holes in the base and secured it to the bottom with some cap head allen machine screws.


-This is probably premature, but, I hauled the whole thing upstairs and went to town on programming the servos. -I had to do each one individually and then write a script to send each command to the servo controller.

I made 2 versions. The first one has all the servos opening at the same time. and same speed. The reason they don't all finish at the same time is because each servo has to travel a different distance. So to make them start and end at the same time, would take some more programming to set the speed of each on to match.

Then for closing I just told all of them to close real fast. (Could go faster!)

Here is a video showing this setup.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h205/rendermandan/Motorized%20Madness%20Case/th_100_3071.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h205/rendermandan/Motorized%20Madness%20Case/?action=view&current=100_3071.flv)

Next I programmed it to open each item sequentially. So the speed does not matter. I didn't change how they closed yet.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h205/rendermandan/Motorized%20Madness%20Case/th_100_3073.jpg (http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h205/rendermandan/Motorized%20Madness%20Case/?action=view&current=100_3073.flv)

So what do you think? Do you like them opening all together or seqentially? or how about the speed? Too Fast or slow?


10-31-2007, 09:35 AM
the speed could be a tad slower but otherwise looks awsome!:D:D:D and it pwnz when they all open at the same time, but since the leds shine trough cant you make them go on and off

+rep indeed:P

10-31-2007, 09:35 AM
quote from irc:

(14:30:29) (FrooP_) DAN POSTET AN UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(14:30:34) (ToS[p0Pe]) woot
(14:30:35) (ToS[p0Pe]) !
(14:30:36) (ToS[p0Pe]) cu
(14:32:30) (FrooP_) oh dear
(14:32:44) (FrooP_) dans case ownz teamspeak so hard
(14:33:00) (ToS[p0Pe]) dan >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> teamspeak!
(14:33:08) (ToS[p0Pe]) wow that thing is nice:D
(14:33:37) (FrooP_) cant wait to see this thing airbrushed..
(14:34:06) (FrooP_) if this thing is going to be kitbashed and airbrushed like his turbine... O_o
(14:34:13) (FrooP_) =overkill
(14:34:18) (+FurryHelix) heh

like the second one better

10-31-2007, 09:50 AM
I like the sequential opening. I also agree with p0Pe that the LEDs need to be off when the drawer is closed. I think it would be cool to have the draws open and then the lights come on as the rest of the case opens up.

Sweet mod either way

The boy 4rm oz
10-31-2007, 09:57 AM
First one looks cool, closing needs to be slower though.
Second one looks fantastic, as with the first one closing needs to be slower.

You know what would be cool? If you get them to open like in the second video when you turn the PC on, would be great. Someone would be like "huh, what a plain PC", you say "Press the power button", their reaction would be something like this "Holy CRAP batman", then they get on their hands and knees and start worshiping you as the true genius you are lol :).

Anyway enough of that.
Are you going to program them so you can open any of of the bays etc. at any time or will they always open in sequence?
I also agree with FrooP and Roughhouse about the LED's.

Fantastic work by the way lol (sorry for the rambling haha).

10-31-2007, 10:36 AM
LMAO. Thanks you guys.

I can slow down the closing a bit. The problem with having them go too slow is if they take too long, and the computer shuts off before they are done closing then the servo controller turns off. -But I haven't timed it yet to see how long I have.

As for the Led's. -I know what you mean about them shining through. After its painted and all the kit bashing stuff is on, I was hoping they would not show through. But I could wire in a switch to the servo to have them turn on and off with the motion. -Have to make a stop at radio shack!

As for opening with power on and off. -Already done. I just didn't show it in the video. They automatically open up while window is booting just after the login screen comes on. When I shut it off, they close when the screen says "Windows is shutting down".

I wish I could make them open sooner, but what happens is the servo controller runs off of a USB to Serial Adapter. so the drivers have to load for that to work and then the script file that runs doesn't load untill after a bunch of other stuff loads first. So it takes a little bit before all the action happens.

As for controlling each item individually. -yes. I have icons in a folder that run scripts to each servo to open and close, so if I wanted to close the front intake fan by itself, I can do just that. :)

10-31-2007, 11:53 AM
I like the sequential opening myself. It really looks awesome. It gives you time to apppeciate all of the modules one at a time. I do have a question though. When you power off and you have some open and some closed. Does it automatically open the closed and close the opened. Or does it just make sure that they all close on power off?
+ Rep

10-31-2007, 12:34 PM
I like the sequential opening myself. It really looks awesome. It gives you time to apppeciate all of the modules one at a time. I do have a question though. When you power off and you have some open and some closed. Does it automatically open the closed and close the opened. Or does it just make sure that they all close on power off?
+ Rep

If some are closed before the shutdown. it will leave those closed and close the others. the Same for opening.

Basically the way it works is the controller sends signals to each servo to go to a specific location (rotation) at a specific speed. -so if the servo is already at that location, it just remains there.

10-31-2007, 01:32 PM
Damn man that is way cool! I'm thinking maybe a combination of the two versions would be better. Maybe set the front vents to open simultaneously with the side window, and then all the flip out panels open together. The light trays should open first though. So you would have three groups opening sequentially.

10-31-2007, 02:01 PM
Omg How Cool Is That!??!?!

10-31-2007, 07:50 PM
that video is MAD i would like to have the skill to do that as well very very very good work amazing

10-31-2007, 07:57 PM
Ahahaha!!! Thats great dude! Personally I liked the version where everything moved at once, it is shorter in time but it makes the whole set feel alive-almost..transformeryish

10-31-2007, 08:31 PM
Ahahaha!!! Thats great dude! Personally I liked the version where everything moved at once, it is shorter in time but it makes the whole set feel alive-almost..transformeryish

i second that, though i also liked when it did each one by themselves.

man this thing gets better and better +rep indeed!

10-31-2007, 08:32 PM
Ahahaha!!! Thats great dude! Personally I liked the version where everything moved at once, it is shorter in time but it makes the whole set feel alive-almost..transformeryish

same. The only thing I dont like besides the led's that should be fixed after the paint job, is the controller on the side, when it comes out, the led's shine right on it rather then having a glow effect. Which cannot be changed unless you tried to frost the led's but thats your choice.

Other then that the idea was great and seeing it come all together is even better.

10-31-2007, 11:53 PM
I like the 2nd video. When they all open at the same time it's to much action for me. go for the each one opens. also beautiful work man. this will be something worth having.

11-01-2007, 12:19 AM
I would have to agree with Jon and say I like the first sequence the best. Everything just comes to life. Maybe you could have the LEDs come out first and then the rest of them open or a few at a time as suggested before.

Awesome work. Id give you some rep if i could.

11-01-2007, 09:44 AM
WOW, Thanks for everyone's responses. I didn't think that many people were following my mod. LOL.

I'm working on some more programming to adjust the servos so that when they get done moving, they shut down so I dont' hear the gears fighting the tension on them. My first attempt worked at shutting them down, but now I lost the speed controlls. But I think I have it figured out. -I'll try it again tonight and post another video. I'm going to add a swith for the led's like many of you suggested. That was a good idea!

I also noticed a few minor modifications I need to make to some of the moving parts to make them function a little smoother, nothing special.


11-01-2007, 09:58 AM
Epic own4g3! I'm with Jon on the first vid. Very Transformer-ish. +rep dude.

11-01-2007, 06:05 PM
OMFG, i think i just wet myself, and in the good way.

I like the first one, like jn said, its like a transformer in action, i LOVE THIS - I would sell my soul for a case like this!

11-01-2007, 11:43 PM
Awesome videos!

Darth Dad
11-02-2007, 08:53 AM
OMFG, i think i just wet myself, and in the good way.

I like the first one, like jn said, its like a transformer in action, i LOVE THIS - I would sell my soul for a case like this!

I didn't know there was a good way to wet yourself!!!!:think:

I guess I will take your word for it....
This really is pretty cool...

11-02-2007, 09:31 AM
Last night I stopped at Radio Shack and picked up a lever switch.


Then I spliced it into the power wire to the lights on the base and mounted it so that when the servo opens, it engages the switch.



I also go my new order of led lights and I fixed the 3 that were burnt out.

-Interesting thing though. One of the led's that I replaced one with, didn't work right out of the package. I'm starting to wonder about the quality of led's from LSDiode.com...

the last thing I did was fill all the joints in the base with putty. I still have to sand it all down yet. But thats it for now. :)


11-02-2007, 12:08 PM
Hurry. I need more updates! Sorry. I just haven't been able to build my own rig right now so I'm living through yours. Keeps getting better. Great job.

11-02-2007, 01:51 PM
Looking awsome.

I would check out Jameco for the LEDs. That is where I am getting mine from at this moment. I am not sure how they compare in price, but no issues so far.

11-02-2007, 04:31 PM
even though its to late you can find switichs like that for free if you see someone tossing out a busted microwave.

here is some of the neat stuff i found and have collected over the years (2 microwaves worth of parts)

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/9726/11020001sp9.th.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=11020001sp9.jpg)

these are the switches that are from the door so the microwave turns on and off when the door. you could have used then for the lights but ohwell, next time.
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/1478/11020002pu4.th.jpg (http://img251.imageshack.us/my.php?image=11020002pu4.jpg)

this the motor that turns the glass plate. it seems like a strong slow moving motor, you might have even been able to use it for a servo.
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/531/11020006oc0.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=11020006oc0.jpg)

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/6043/11020007cb3.th.jpg (http://img407.imageshack.us/my.php?image=11020007cb3.jpg)

all the stuff i could take from the microwaves - the body
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/6078/11020010nc7.th.jpg (http://img229.imageshack.us/my.php?image=11020010nc7.jpg)

oh and of course great work as always!

11-02-2007, 08:48 PM
Congrats Renderman, your rig rocks!
Give us a shot with the tubine on it, I am curiuos how big it looks on top of the case.

Doesn't the controller board have some simple I/O-Ports to switch the LEDs or some other stuff? That would have been the easiest way.

BTW: Are these digital servos? Because if so, they should send back the current they consume. And you could use this info to switch them off, when they reached the end position (if the controller board suports this). I know this from robotics boards.

Keep on the great work!

The boy 4rm oz
11-03-2007, 10:22 PM
Can't wait for more videos lol, great work.

11-04-2007, 04:24 PM
Congrats Renderman, your rig rocks!
Give us a shot with the tubine on it, I am curiuos how big it looks on top of the case.

Doesn't the controller board have some simple I/O-Ports to switch the LEDs or some other stuff? That would have been the easiest way.

BTW: Are these digital servos? Because if so, they should send back the current they consume. And you could use this info to switch them off, when they reached the end position (if the controller board suports this). I know this from robotics boards.

Keep on the great work!

Um.... Yeah sounds like you have a little more experience with robotics than me. I know the board does have 4 inputs on them. But I'm not sure how to use/program them. And I believe it will read the servos position but from everyting that the guys over at lynxmotion.com forum have told me, they won't automattically shut off. I have to send that command. But I've gotten it all figured out. :)

I'm actually contemplating one more motorized item... it will take 2 servos to run. Its just a matter if I want to spend the money and if I have room for it.


11-04-2007, 04:57 PM
This mod is awesome man...you've done a fantastic job and I can't wait to see it with the turbine attached! Keep up the great work!

btw, Where did you learn how to program servos? That's something I've always wanted to play with.

11-05-2007, 05:10 PM
I've been reading all through this topic, it's amazing :) Too bad the 20-something bladed fangrill didn't really work out great, but I really like the idea. Not just because I had the same idea a few days ago :p

11-05-2007, 05:50 PM
Well guys, I ordered my last (hopefully last) big purchase for this mod. You'll have to wait and see what it is though. I also picked up 2 more servos to motorize this item. :) It won't be here for a while though. I got an email saying they had a 3-5 day lead time. Any guesses?

-FYI, I sent back my bulgin switch last week, and they said they haven't received it yet. Hmmmm. Hope it didn't get lost in the mail.

I've been working on the back panel of the case and started doing some kit bashing. Sorry I don't have any pics right now. I just jumped on to check my mail. I'll post what I can tomorrow.

-Untill next time...

11-06-2007, 12:19 AM
sorry if you posted this already, you probably did but i will ask anyway. what hardware are you putting in this case?

11-06-2007, 10:31 AM
sorry if you posted this already, you probably did but i will ask anyway. what hardware are you putting in this case?

For right now, I'm just going to transfer my hardware from my current computer. Its an Asus P5N32-SLI SE Delux. Core 2 Duo 2.4 GHZ Processor,
ATI 1900 XTX, 2 gb Corsair xms2 800 mhz. memory. Ultra x2 550 watt modular power supply and a sound card.

I'll have to convert my video card over to water cooling which I already have the block from Danger Den for but I need to lap it first.

I've been spending all my free money on this case and medical bills lately so I haven't had any extra money to buy new hardware.... YET!
I would like to get a new dx10 card. and some more ram. -Maybe a new power supply (has to be small!)

11-06-2007, 03:08 PM
Well guys, I ordered my last (hopefully last) big purchase for this mod. You'll have to wait and see what it is though.... Any guesses?

Hmmm, motorized lcd screen? :P

11-06-2007, 03:14 PM
wow, almost 4 hours for someone to guess. I must have made it too easy to figure out. :)

11-06-2007, 03:25 PM
wow, almost 4 hours for someone to guess. I must have made it too easy to figure out. :)

lol you posted that yesterday. But I just saw it today, and figured something big that takes two servos must be an lcd screen. :) Can't wait to see how you do it!

11-06-2007, 03:32 PM
DOHHH. Nevermind. My mind is about to explode here at work. I'm finding it very difficutl to concentrate on what I'm doing. work is not very clear as to what they want done, so its making my mind go haywire. Sorry.

Its actually not that big. its only a 5" lcd. I"m running out of room in the case quickly. I still have to leave room for all the computer components. It will take 2 servos because it will have a compound motorization action. -Not just a flip up panel or anythig but somethign completly different!

and incase anybody asks, I forgot to bring my pics with me to upload so sorry!

11-06-2007, 05:35 PM
DOHHH. Nevermind. My mind is about to explode here at work. I'm finding it very difficutl to concentrate on what I'm doing. work is not very clear as to what they want done, so its making my mind go haywire. Sorry.

Its actually not that big. its only a 5" lcd. I"m running out of room in the case quickly. I still have to leave room for all the computer components. It will take 2 servos because it will have a compound motorization action. -Not just a flip up panel or anythig but somethign completly different!

and incase anybody asks, I forgot to bring my pics with me to upload so sorry!

No worries man. I'm the same way at work. Sometimes the only thing that keeps me sane is finding solace in my modding projects. So I do most if not all of my planning here at work. And that way I dont waste any time when I get to the garage, I can get straight to modding! :p

11-07-2007, 06:55 PM
Update comming soon. Just have to upload the photos on my slow upload speed from home now. I'm getting about 35kbs upload speed. If you haven't read my post about working locking us down. Thats why. :mad:

11-07-2007, 08:18 PM
Ok, Finally here's an update.

I left off the base where I had filled all the cracks and joints. So I sanded everything down nice and flat.

Then I coated the led's in some liquid masking film, so when I paint it, they led's will be protected.


Then I cut another gear for the front doors. I staggered the joints so it would help make the doors close evenly.


here they are opened part of the way.

Next I started to work on the back side panel. I wanted it to give some continuity between the turbine mod and this mod so I gave it the angular patter with light surrounding them "look".
This shot shows the thin styrene sheets taped together. I used a marker to layout the design.

Then i started to cut out the design and glue each piece to the back panel.

Here is a partially done section. so you can see it easier.

here is a shot of the whole thing done.

Then I mounted the turbine on the top.

And filled the top panel with styrene sheets.

next came some more gears. here they are laid out ready to be cut.

After several hours of scroll saw work, here they are.

I glued some thin styrene sheet to the back sides.

Then I primed and painted the logo. I also added a blue tinted sheet to the back side to give it some contrast.

Then I laid it out on the panel with the gears.

But before I can glue it together, I had to mask off the light openings.
I used some more of that liquid mask.

Here you can see how liberal I was with it. Its designed to dry clear and then be cut to shape. After I was done, I set that piece aside to dry overnight.

I then started to do a little kit bashing.

here's a shot of one of the side light trays at the base. You can see the primer color for now.

some more kit bashing. -Makes it look like the gear is attached to an actuated arm doesn't it?

And the start of the front panel.

That a pretty good size update that should hold you over for a while. I'm currently waiting on my LCD panel to do more work to the back panel. In the meantime, More kitbashing, yeah baby!!!

11-07-2007, 10:03 PM
Dude, you are doing such a great job on this. Be sure you take you sweet time with the touch up detailing while finishing because it will make the difference between a cool mod, to a magazine cover. This is a very creative and original worklog, you should be proud, we sure are!

11-07-2007, 11:07 PM
wow, along with the turbine.. i would almost have to declare this one of the most detailed mods ever. just astonshing even before the superawesome paintjob

11-07-2007, 11:30 PM
Do you think Paul would mind if I called this my new favorite mod. You should be proud dude. This is some hardcore work. I really enjoy this!

The boy 4rm oz
11-08-2007, 01:40 AM
HOLY CRAP!!!, this is going to look so cool when your all done with it. I love the Motorized Madness logo, all looks fantastic.

11-08-2007, 01:54 AM
Thanks you guys. All your comments have put a huge smile on my face!

I did some more kit bashing tonight and glued the gears on the panel for the logo. -Have to wait till the end for the actual name plate to go on for that final touch after all the painting is done.

Sorry I don't have any pics. Its not much more than what I showed earlier today. Just some more plastic pieces mainly on the base.

Once I get further along in the kit bashing I'll post some more pics.

-FYI, my lcd screen should be here on monday, But that is my bowling night, so I won't be able to start that untill Tuesday night. I can't wait to test it out.

-Oh and about painting, yeah, I'm planning on spending a lot of time painting all the little parts and pieces with multiple colors and then to match the turbine, it will get the weathered look.

Thanks again for everyone's support!


11-08-2007, 11:26 AM
I'd forgotten what the turbine looks like... WOW it's teh hawtness!!! Dude this case is THE SICKEST MOD EVER, it's not completely my taste but the workmanship, effort etc. etc. involved!

11-11-2007, 01:34 PM
Hey guys, I've got some good news, and some bad news. First the good news,
I received my lcd monitor on friday!!! and I've been diligently working on getting it integrated into the case. I'm about half way done. I've got the motorization part done and the surrounding case for it finished. All I have left to do is mount it in the case and program the servos.

Now the bad news. I won't be posting any pics of this till I"m all done. :) I wouldn't want to show you bits and pieces and just leave you hanging. I'd hate to keep your suspense up any longer that I have to. So I've decided that once its done, I'll show you a video first, then how I did it.

So don't get upset at me, I'm just looking out for YOUR best interest. Muahhhaaahhhh (Evil Laugh). :)

11-11-2007, 02:10 PM
wo, i can't remember what rep you were at before you started both mods (turbine and this one) but thats pretty dam impressive to max (only 1 box left) out the rep system with only 2 mods... so here have a rep for that, lol.

i can't remember the site but be sure, once this is done, to enter it in that site the doom 3 won and you will win something.

i know you said you won't be posting any pics of the mounting until its finished but still take them, i like to know how stuff works!

11-11-2007, 06:37 PM
you better work 24/7 cus i cant wait to see this:D.. or... saturday would be fine since im home from london at that time!:D.... looking forward to an update:D

and yeah... so much rep for 2 mods is... worth... MORE REP!:D
but have to spread it:/..

The boy 4rm oz
11-11-2007, 09:39 PM
I want pics lol, don't rush the work though.

11-12-2007, 01:05 AM
I got it installed and mounted in the case. I cut out the side panel to allow for room. Bad news is I have to get a servo extension cable before I can hook it up. So I won't be able to get any video of it yet. One of the servos is fine, but the other is short by about 2 inches. :( -Have to make a stop at hobby town before I can get to work on the programing.

-I've been taking plenty of pictures, And I could post them, I just think it will be cooler if you guys see it in action first before I post how I did it. :)

Should have an update in a few days for you. And thanks for the Reps by the way!

11-12-2007, 01:10 AM
dont make us wait too long:D
we become Motorized addicted peoples:D[joking]

11-12-2007, 02:00 AM
Ok, to tide you guys over, here are some shots of the work I did before the monitor.

I got the replacement Bulgin switch and wired it up and tested it before installing it. -It will be powered by the 6v power supply for the servo controller and be wired to be on constantly. that way I can find the power switch in the dark.


I drilled a hole in the front of the base.

And I temporarily installed in the base. I will remove it for painting.


Here are some shots of the kit bashing I've been working on.







Thats all for now. :)