R2server

[crazybillybob]

It's been a year now since Waaack and myself came up with a plan to build a new server, The question was what to build...The answer R2D2. The Idea came to us at lunch last August the research started shortly after that, In September the Build started.

The Goals:
Build a R2D2 clone, Close to screen accurate.
Make it R/C Controlled
Sounds and Wireless connectivity are a must.

This Work log will show what we've done and follow the continuation to completion.

As a side note, I didn't know about TGS R2PC till I meet CrimsonSky and Scarab this year at MML4. Both these mods are different and super sweet. This is not a contest or am I competing with RTS, we just share Similar interests. Hope you like it...For the first few weeks there will be allot of up dates...As it covers the first year of building, once we catch up updates will come as they happen...I can fully sympathize with CrimsonSky on this, I'm trying to finish as fast as I can, but the Real world keeps getting in the way of my Hobby, so be patients please.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Here we have the Frame Laid out (the outside has been Routed to shape with a homemade circle jig for the router) The Inside will be trimmed away with a Saber saw.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/RingLayout1.JPG

Test fitting the Frame Rings to the Aluminum Dome.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/2ringdome.JPG


The frame Assembled (the vertical bars are solid aluminum round stock).

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Frameassmb1.JPG

[crazybillybob]

I filled the low spots from forming with Auto body Glaze (it's like bondo, just for smaller "pin holes", it's down side is that is shrinks way more than bondo!) Then sanded it down. This was done till you couldn't see any of the seams or dents.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Radar_Putty.JPG

Next The Primer, Wet sand and remove any high spots (also filled in some more low spots), then 3 coats of prime (wet sand with 600/1000).

R2's Blue color is tricky, as it's a base of purple mixed with gold fleck and a blue candy top. I don't have the expertise in air painting, so I found a rattle can process that works (this was also based on Mr. Kridders work, with a redneck twist!).

Here is the base (as you can see it's a Metallic fleck deep Purple). 3 Coats of base then wet sanded with 1000 (I didn't want that orange peel look!)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Radar_BASE.JPG

The top is a blue anodized spray. (3 coats wet sanded with 1000)
Then I laid 4 coats of clear (3 wet sanded with 1000, then 1 light to clear up the fog!)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Radar_FinalColor.JPG


I've not polished or buffed it in these pics.


Crazybillybob

[TheGreatSatan]

Awwwww...It's gonna be so little and chubby :lol:

Why couldn't you be different and build an R4 or something?

[Bum]

Don't worry TGS.....whoever has the best R2 mod will NOT be thrown in the Sarlaac pit. No pressure now.

[crazybillybob]

Awwwww...It's gonna be so little and chubby :lol:

Why couldn't you be different and build an R4 or something?


Cause there’s like 5 people out there that aren't SW Geeks that knows what an R4 is everyone else will ask "What is it?" But R2 everyone knows. And there's many different Types Of R2's Yours Is an R2D2 mine is an R2-SRV. So they are different. :D

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

The frame took about 3-4 hours to make, the Alum vertical round bars took about 3-4 hours to cut then drill and tap a 1/4" hole in each end.

The Skin of the R2-SRV is 0.04" white Styrene (plastic). I got 2 4x8' sheets of this (The body is 18" around and 24"ish tall, plus the legs). If you looking for this stop in and see your friendly neighborhood sign maker, they can get it for you (it was $20us a sheet) Mine was there the day after I ordered it.

I had cad drawings of R2's body panels that I got printed out on E sized paper. That was lightly spray glued to the plastic. There are 4 sections of skins, the front inner, the front outer, the back inner, the back outer. This was done to give it that raised panel look when I finished cutting out the panels.
To get a feel for how it would look I taped the Rear outer layer onto the frame, Slipped the resin Power coupler in place and set the Aluminum Dome on top of the frame.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/skindomeBMM.jpg




This is a look into the frame with the Rear skin on, no Dome, no front skins.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/frameBMM.jpg

Now I can start cutting out all the panels....This is going to take awhile!

[Malatory]

Don't worry TGS.....whoever has the best R2 mod will NOT be thrown in the Sarlaac pit. No pressure now.

Yesh no presure. If things turn out well for both R2D2 & R2-SRV then can we through in MrsLacker?? :eek:

[pointedsirforky]

Lets not waste a good idea and throw him in regardless. :D

[crazybillybob]

Here's what I'm working on now.

The Drive Train.....
I'm taking the Scooter motor / rear drive wheel assembly and adjusting it to fit into the feet boxes. I'll also be using the Batteries to power the motors.

Here is the donor a $49 Scooter form Big Lots
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Scooter.JPG

I've got it disassembled here....not much to it as you can see.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Torndown.JPG

This Scooter will not engage the drive wheel till it's rolling 3mph...That will not do in R2 so I'm going to get rid of the controller here.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Controller.JPG

With the controller gone the 24V charging circuit is very simple.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Charging.JPG

I'll be posting more tonight or in the morning, I'm still unpacking R2 from the Midwest R2-builders mini con In Chicago (Bolingbrook) IL this weekend.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/MWr2BG05.JPG


Let me know what you think!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Here is the outer foot shell and the scooter motor frame (striped down and Moded). When I make the Center foot shell I'll take more pics. The outers were made spur of the moment, and I didn't have a camera with me.

The foot shells are made from old computer cases, not the cheap ones these things are 1/32" ish thick. I laid out the pattern on the case and added tabs (to be folded in so I had something to spot wield too.) Then they were cutout a sheet metal cutter (I'll get a pic off this next time too) and a air power nibbler made short work of the cutting. Then a vise , sheet metal Piers and some spare steel blocks and the bending was done. All in all it took about 5.5-6.75 hrs to make two of these (first one took 75% of that time).

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Outerfootbox.JPG


The frame here is still a work in progress. The support brackets on the top of it need adjusted to fit the foot, I still need to cut a slot in the top of the foot shells and put some u channel in there so I can attach the ankle to the foot. Once the channel is in the brackets will be adjusted and welded in place.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motormount.JPG

This is how the motor Mount will sit in the foot shell.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Outerbottom.JPG

And a look at it from the inside (the part of the foot closest to R2's body)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Outerinside.JPG


Back to work! ;)

[crazybillybob]

Sorry I've been swamped @ work so the updates are a little slow and Lite on content right now. I plan on fixing this shortly The long weekend will give me time to get something’s finished up like the Skins being mounted or at least started the ankles.

I really would like some feedback here.

I haven't picked out a motherboard or Proc yet anyone got any recommendations?
It will be a stretch to get a full ATX Mobo in the little guy, a baby or Mini would fit ok. I'm even kicking around the Idea of ITX but I've never worked with them so some info would be handy!

Thanks all,
Crazybillybob

[Bum]

I haven't checked this thread in too long. I happened to grow up in Bolingbrook, thought its changed alot since I moved away.

As I understand it, you're putting the drive wheel in an outer foot. Isn't it going to want to run around in a circle? I'd think putting it in the center foot and putting a servo or actuator on that to turn it would be the easiset way to make him mobile. Maybe I've just read it wrong. Good job with the work so far.

[crazybillybob]

I haven't checked this thread in too long. I happened to grow up in Bolingbrook, thought its changed alot since I moved away.

As I understand it, you're putting the drive wheel in an outer foot. Isn't it going to want to run around in a circle? I'd think putting it in the center foot and putting a servo or actuator on that to turn it would be the easiset way to make him mobile. Maybe I've just read it wrong. Good job with the work so far.

There will be a motor in each outer foot. This will allow you to drive R2 tank style, both motors fwd = R2 fwd, Left motor fwd +Right motor stop = R2 goes Right, Right motor Fwd + Left motor stop = R2 going Left. The third leg will just have a (or more) ball caster in it. This gives him more maneuverability (he should turn on a Dime!)

Thanks for the input, Bolingbrook was nice. It had some very nice homes and there was lots of shops and eateries there.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Here's a little look into what I'm working on this weekend.

This is a picture of R2D2 built by ILM for one of the Starwars movies.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/ILMR2_rearlogic.jpg

It is a 4x27 matrix of 3mm LEDs. I'm working on creating a printed curcuit board with 108 Ultra bright LEDs on it then randomizing the blinking pattern with a Microcontroller. I've been working on it in cad for a while...I'll get some screen shoots of the drawings up.



Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

The work on the Rear Logic Display went well this weekend.
Here is the Cad Drawings I made to Get all the parts to fit in this little space.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cadrld.jpg

First up was the Creation on the Bezel. This piece is used to Line up all the 3mm Leds so they look neat and are easier to see.
I've tried to make this out of styrene previously and the drill bit ripped the lattice out (but only after I drilled 80-90 holes ...there's 108 total)
So this time I'm using a 2.5mm thick Aluminum plate...The Lattice shouldn't tear as easily.

I printed the Bezel layout 1:1 then coated the back in a thin layer of spray adhesive ( this keeps the print from moving on you when your marking the centers to drill). Once the layout was in place I used a scratch all the mark dead center for each hole, next I center punched each hole. Here's what it looked like when that was finished.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/BezLayout.JPG

If you look at the bottom of the plate you can see my first set of mistakes. I used a 1/8" drill bit to bore the holes, and it ended up cutting through the lattice. To fix the problem I got a smaller drill bit but will have to file out each hole a bit to let the 3mm LEDs fit in them....Snuggly! (if you look a the center of the mistake area you'll see these test holes...Works great! After allot of hole drilling, and some shaping the bezel looks great.

I also worked on etching the circuit board that the LED's will be hooked to.
As with the bezel I printed the layout out 1:1 on a Laser printer. Then cut it to fit the board. I also added alignment marks (not shown in the Drawing here) so both sides of the PCB (printed Cuircut Board) line up. I drilled 0.004" holes in the center of these marks and put pins in them. Then I Laid the Layouts printed side to copper on the board and heated with my iron for abit (20-30mins total) watching all the time not to burn the paper. Once that was complete I soaked the paper off in water. This is what it looked like after the water bath. (sorry just realized that I have no pics of that Process prior to this...I'll get them up the next time ..as I have many more PCBs to make for R2)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PCBPreetch.JPG

Now the board gets soaked in ferric chloride till all the unwanted copper is gone. Rinse the board with water and your ready to drill.

Here is the PCB and the Aluminum Bezel side by side.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/ALumBez-PCB.JPG

Here a couple of pics showing the way these parts will be used together.
The first is the Rear Logic surround (made from Resin) with the Aluminum bezel underneath. The Second shows the PCB with the Bezel over it underneath the RLS.

1:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/RLDwBezel.JPG

2:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/RLD-Bezel-PCB.JPG


Now I have to finish Drilling the 200+ 0.004 holes in the circuit board (got some drilled but broke my bit and it was late so I went to bed) and Solder in 108 Leds (that’s 216 Solder joins just for the LEDS!) I'll post those pics in a few weeks. Ha it takes time to do all that work, plus I've got some other parts that I need to get done quick before I do all the tedious stuff.

Let Me know what you think.

Crazybillybob

[dgrmkrp]

my god... where is the small smiley with his jaw on the floor... this is simply amazig work... the shear amount of repetitive..........aah... !!@#$#... congrats and may you continue... btw, have you considered doing a CPU? :) seriously, this is something special...

[crazybillybob]

btw, have you considered doing a CPU? :) seriously, this is something special...

Dgrmkr,
Not sure what you mean by this?

Thanks for the props!
Yes it's repeditive, but when you get in the "zone" you don't notice anything else (ask my Wife she hates it!) Now If I could just get the frame made for the utility arms (the Blue arms just under R2's head) I could mount the front skins and put the Util. Arms I made on him.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I Tought it would be cool to snap a pic of my pile of parts. (Note the front skins are just taped in place.)


http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/R2WIP01.jpg


Let me know what you think.



Crazybillybob

[Defyant]

Let me know what you think.

you wanna know?

wow...wow....WOW!!! totally blown away ! this is on another level all-together Cbb!

that shot of all the guys with thyr R2's is just too cool!

Respect!

Vote 1 for sticky !

[dgrmkrp]

:) ... i meant... you know, after they laser the etching on the si waffers, the core s are cut and then a small machine makes the connections from the cpu to the pins... it's like so tedious.. but that's a robot... and there are hundreds of connections... so, my joke... this level of patience could be used to re-wire a cpu :) i didn't mean to offend, if i did..sorry :)... ... ... and the "seriously,this is..." = the mod is looking great! :)

[crazybillybob]

Ok, I thought that's what you were going for I just wanted to make sure that I was on the same page.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

After working on the Aluminum Bezel I ran into a little snag.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/LED_pre_Clip.JPG

The 3mm LEDs I ordered have this little lip on the bottom that makes them 3.4mm :eek: so the lips on each LED overlap.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/LED_Lip.JPG

Well here is the answer to the question how to get rid of the lip.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/clippers.jpg

After a few quick clips the lips gone.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/LED_no_Lip.JPG

Now the LEDs fit snuggly with no overlap.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/LED_Fin_rear.JPG

Here's a preview of what the front will look like with the LEDs in place.

Now I've gotta get them soldered into the PCB.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/LED_finish.JPG


Crazybillybob

[ovy]

woa! sexy, but youve got a load of wiering to do there ey

[crazybillybob]

Yah,
I've got a bit of wiring to do, as well as a bit of fab work to complete.




Crazybillybob

[Defyant]

agreed! but the end result from the front will look fantastic!

[Crimson Sky]

This is so awesome--I love watching these creations come to life..amazing so far!

[TheGreatSatan]

Beautiful, keep on going!

[crazybillybob]

Thanks guys for all the positive replies!

I got cracking Sunday on Drilling all 340 holes out of the PCB...Wasn't to bad just turned on the drill press and got in the "ZONE". an Hour or so later it was done.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/RL_PCB_Drilled.JPG

I also finished the Utility Arm Carrier (the utility arms are the 2 Blue arms on the Front of R2 just below the dome). This carrier is important because it gives me somewhere to mount the Util. Arms that I'm making (really thinking about making them servo controlled so they can move in and out), and It pushes the front skin out in the correct shape. Right now with out the carrier the front of R2 has a big dent (flat spot) in it when I pull the front skins tight.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/R2_UTIL_ARM.jpg


I draw out the shapes that I need on a large sheet of 1/4 PVC plastic.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/UAC_Layout.JPG

Next I cut out each shape with a band saw.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/UAC_Cutout.JPG

Then we move over to the Vise for some clean up with the dremal, a File and the power sander.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/UAC_Cleanup.JPG

I'm gluing the pieces together with Gorilla Glue (http://www.gorillaglue.com/) and some small metal pins (aka Brads, with the hole they go into oversized). It's an odd shape (curved) so I'm just using masking tape to hold it in place till the glue dries.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/UAC_Glueup.JPG

Once the Glue dries I pull the tape off and it's perfect!

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/UAC_Fin.JPG


With the carrier glued up and Dry, I just had to sit my Prototype Utility arm in place (and the cutout from the skins so you can see what it's going to look like).

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/UAC_Arms.JPG

Now I just have to mount this to the frame, and get my front skins glued on.

I know it doesn't look like much but It's the lynch pin I haven't had time to make for the last 3 months....Now that I've got it made the main body is almost ready for paint. The next hurdle is the rear Access panel...So I can get to the Batteries and the PC Parts.

That's all for now!
Crazybillybob

[niko7209]

awesome!

[crazybillybob]

I didn't make any major progress on this mod this weekend. My wife's little brother graduated from Navy Boot Camp so we drove up to Chicago to see it and spend some time with him.

Hopefully work will be light this week and I'll be able to make some marked progress. I feel as though this mod is on a glacial pace...way to slow but it's getting there. I've Started soldering the LEDs to the PCB, and have had to modify the way things hook up (bad board design...Not sure What I was thinking when I laid it out!). If I get the LEDS hooked up and the front skins mounted this week it will free me up to start glassing the Shoulders and making a mold and plug for the ankles next weekend.

Thanks for check up on this mod.. I'll get more pics up soon!

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

I just stumbled across this amazing piece of work. Increcible!

Very nice work, I can't wait for an update.

[[TC]Snarf]

Wow, that is so awesome, great job!...that all i really have to say...seeing all those r2 units in one picture...haha...im stunned...

[crazybillybob]

I've been thinking allot about the Mother board that I'm going to put into this mod. I've been planning that the server side of it would only work when R2 is plugged to a umbilical cord (which would have a 1Gb Net connection and 120VAC to power the PC). Then the Other day a friend of mine sent me an e-mail the this Review of the Voom PC (http://www.mobilemag.com/content/100/313/C4775/) I found more info on the VOOM PC and a Price at Mini-Box (http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.101/.f)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/voomPC.jpg

With it I could run the game server while R2 is running around the room, Powering the PC on a 12V Battery. I've always planed on having a high-speed Wireless connection to Him, So the umbilical cord would not be needed. :D What do you think? The specs on it show that I should run fine as a BF2 Server (as far as I know that is the game with the highest req's for the Server platform!)

Does anyone know someone that wants to sponsor a Mod? I'd be happy to put the Company's logo and/name on a plaque to be mounted on the inside of the Access panel for R2-SRV... Drop me a PM if interested.


Crazybillybob

[Defyant]

With it I could run the game server while R2 is running around the room, Powering the PC on a 12V Battery

Amazing!!!! what a picture :)

Tthis is such a high quality pro mod cbb, and it's the one mod i keep comming back and checking for more!!!!


Congards to the bro :)

[crenn]

Ah, the great VIA EPIA MII 12000. Great little mob ain't it. I remember that a certain type of 12v battery can give enough juice for a robot for upto 10 hours I think it was.

I think the link is http://oap.sourceforge.net but I could be wrong. I want to build a OAP. I can just imagine this at a small LAN party with a small camera built into the lens so that you can go screen looking!!!! *cough* But that's your decission.

[crazybillybob]

Crenn,

Funny you should mention a Camera in it. The Main Radar Eye (the painting of it is here in the worklog) is going to have a webcam behind it. The Lens in it is tinted Brown and is made from Optical quality acrylic. Now I just have to find the Right USB webcam to put behind it!


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I've been working late every night this week (and not on this mod :mad: ) So Today (Sunday) I took some time to start the Access door On the Back of R2. This is only way that I'll be able to get in to the body of R2. The Access door is large about 3/4 of the back. The Styrene that R2 is skinned with is very Flexible, which is great to make curves (like the body of R2) but it also means that with out a frame to hold it into shape it will distort.
With that in mind making a door in the back of R2 means I need some kind of frame to keep everything in shape. The answer Fiberglass...My first attempt at laying down glass.

The first thing is to make a form for the door. Lucky I already had a Body mockup that I had made for gluing up the skins (I never used but still had it laying around). I skinned a section with some 1/4 plywood (I made it more flexible by cutting slits 1/2 the way through the plywood the length of the plywood. The Slits were about 1" apart...I forgot to take a picture before I taped it up).
Then the frame is covered with duct tape (you can also use clear packing tape) this keeps the Resin from sticking to the frame. Here's the Frame cover in the tape.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Access_taped.JPG

Next I mixed up the Resin & hardener per the directions and painted a coat stright onto the tape. Then the first layer of fiberglass cloth down, using the paint brush to smooth out the cloth and make sure it's good and covered. The 2nd and final layer of fiberglass cloth goes on. On this layer I use a squeegee to smooth the glass and make sure the excess resin is removed (ends up on the floor), Don't add resin on this layer.
Here's a picture after It's all laid up.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Access_Glassed.JPG

Now We wait for 24Hrs to see how it turns out...Hey I'm waiting on this on too!

Well, Just to help the wait and to prove that Everyone loves R2....Here's Peanut (one of our cats) enjoying some quite time with R2.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PeanutInr2.JPG

Crazybillbob

[crenn]

Crenn,

Funny you should mention a Camera in it. The Main Radar Eye (the painting of it is here in the worklog) is going to have a webcam behind it. The Lens in it is tinted Brown and is made from Optical quality acrylic. Now I just have to find the Right USB webcam to put behind it!


Crazybillybob

Try looking for a USB2.0 webcam with at least 30-45fps.

[Rankenphile]

Crenn,

Funny you should mention a Camera in it. The Main Radar Eye (the painting of it is here in the worklog) is going to have a webcam behind it. The Lens in it is tinted Brown and is made from Optical quality acrylic. Now I just have to find the Right USB webcam to put behind it!


CrazybillybobTry looking for a USB2.0 webcam with at least 30-45fps.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16830108105. Good looking webcam, decent price and good reviews. Plus you have pan, tilt and zoom functionality and good resolution. And, there's a one day sale on it... for the next couple days. :p

[crazybillybob]

Thanks guys for the Links and leads for Webcams.

I've been looking at the Phidgets boards (http://www.phidgets.com/) lately. There USB controlled Input output Boards that are low cost, and you can controll them through code (java, .net, Visual basic, visual c,and more). They have one that lets you controll upto 4 Servos off one board, for $75ca (about $65us). I'm looking at it to create some random movements of the Holo Eye, or open some panels on the body (like the Recharge ports). Not sure Just checking things out.


Crazybillybob


Thanks All for the Positive - Helpful Comments, Please Keep the Comments coming (positive or other wise)....As I'm new to the Worklog thing Let me know How I can make the work log better as well as improve the Project!

[crazybillybob]

My Fiber glassing Didn't go as planed. :mad: Currently I have a Very sticky, very flimsily mess in my garage....My first guess I ran out of hardener and was not sure I had put enough in...Guess that thought was Right after all.

Here's the new plan:
buy more hardener
use 1 layer of fiberglass cloth a layer of fiberglass mat (1.5oz short fiber) then cover with another layer of glass cloth. I'm planning on laying this mess up on Friday night (so I'll have time to work on it ...if it dries : Or I'll have time to come up with a new plan that doesn't include fiberglass...maybe some Sheet Aluminum or PVC heated and Bent to shape)

I'll post a pic of the flimsy sticky mess later today!

CrazyBillybob

[Rankenphile]

Forget the Fiberglass, just get a sheet of Cintra, it's PVC signboard. You could get a sheet of it from any sign printer, and it is stronger than most plexi and just as easy to work with (IMO). Less mess, and less stress when cutting it - you don't get all itchy. I hate working with fingerglass!

[crazybillybob]

I'm Already using Cintra (or some PVC board)

Look down in the Log where I made the Utility Arm Carries (Gray Rounded cage thingys). And I tried using it for this....2 hours with a heat gun Only got a slite warp in the sheet (it's 1/4" thick! x 11.5" x 17 1/4") That's why I busted out the fiberglass...I thought it would bw quicker. I'll give the glass one more try (cause it's not it's fault I ran out of hardener. If that doesn't work....The Cintra's going in the Oven (my wife will hate me but...R2 Needs IT!)

Thanks for the Idea .... I should have posted that I had tried it. That Cruve it's gotta hold is whats causeing all my problems!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I've been busy working this evening after returning home from work.

Here is the Not quite Bent enough Piece of Cintra that lead to the Fiberglass Laying. http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PVCBend.JPG

Here is my first (Failed!) attempt at laying Fiber glass...The Resin never Dried!

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/FiberFail.JPG

So first thing tonight when I got home was to lay up a new Door.
This time I laid 1 layer of Fiberglass cloth then 1 layer of fiberglass mat then covered with a layer of fiberglass cloth. (the mat is on the left, the cloth is on the right)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/FiberGlass.JPG

Here it is all laid up!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/FiberLayup2.JPG

After the door is laid up, I started cleaning up so of the resin detail pieces so I can paint them tomorrow.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Details_Clean.JPG

The resin seems to be drying correctly this time :) So tomorrow and Sunday could be busy days fitting the door and painting resin ....doing all those things on that Honey do list!!!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Success!!! :D This Try Came out great!
Here's the Access door Roughly trimmed down. The Curve and fit look great.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Access_success.JPG

I want to take a minute here to talk about safety...If your working with Bondo or fiber glass make sure you take all the safety precautions recommended.
That means a good Respirator. (This one was like $20 from Harbor freight)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Saftey.JPG

Not one of those $0.99 cheapies.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/notmask.JPG

Always wear Safety glasses (I've been In the hospital with a steel fragment in my Eye...You never want that!!!) and when working with resins and other chemicals wear Gloves (Read the labels some solvents will eat rubber and latex gloves so wear the right ones!)

Now Back to building!

I also laid up some more fiberglass to use on the front two interface arm doors.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Inerface_Doors.JPG

Crazybillybob

[Aero]

....that same respirator cost me $40 at Home Depot....actually, it looks better than mine.......

[crenn]

lol, that would have to suck.

Bob, read your other topic (the one about the battery charging problem), there is now a large thing to read.... from ME!!!!!

[Rankenphile]

Glad to hear it worked out so well! I may have to look into doing the fiberglass thing for my big mod/scratchbuild I have planned for sometime next year. How does it work out, cost-wise? (in other words, how much does a panel like that cost?)

[crazybillybob]

Resin runs about $11 a quart (I used about 1/2 quart for that panel and another half that size) The fiber glass cloth is about $6 for 8 Sq feet and the glass mat is about $6 for 8Sq feet. So for the two panels I have $23 bucks into it, Plus I've got enough resin left to make the Ankles (the next part I'm going to need) But the Ankles will be much thicker (4 to 8 layers) and reinforced with some 1/8" Aluminum, This is because of all the lateral forces that will be applied on the ankles when R2 makes turns (He will weigh about 90 pounds before we add Batts and Extra electronics (PC)) So that's allot of force when he's tooling around.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Got a Little Painting done this week after work in the evenings.

My group of Resin Detail Pieces here are primered Gray then covered with Rustoleum Come finish. After working with the Chrome the best way to use it is a top coat...more like a candy, because if you try to build up layers like with normal paint the shininess of the surface goes away, get bumpy and distorted. The Next group will get primered 2 coats of silver paint, a top coat of chrome, and a couple light coats of clear (to much and the shine goes away).

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Details_Cromed.JPG

Here's one of the Leg Hubs up close.


http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Hub_close.JPG

I also Tested an off white paint for R2. The Real R2 is a Cream color (that's because it shows up on film as white, but doesn't blend into the Stark white interiors of the ships :) ) But since My R2 is not going to be filmed I just want him a little off white not Almond. So I picked up a can of Biscuit paint. This foot shell still need some details cut out so I did most of the body work (Bondo the corners and some of the dents, not to many Cause R2 needs to look used not right off the show room floor!) A couple of coats of primer some wet sanding and some color coats (2). This is what you get.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Foot_1_Paint.JPG

Let me remind you that this foot was made out of an old PC Case, That I hand bent and Spot welded together (I've still gotta make the Center foot So I'll take Pics as it Happens so I can Post them!).....Not bad for a HIllBilly with a hammer!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I'm going to be out of town this week (Working in Indy) So I don't think I'll get much done....Check back later though (next weekend is full on modathon!).


Thanks,
Crazybillybob

[TheGreatSatan]

Congrats on getting Featured here @ TBCS

[sketchymodder]

wow man this mod is looking awsome i cant belirve how well its coming along
i mean the inginuity in this project is amazing
i cant believe u already put so much detail in
well keep on going

is there any peticular advantages to haveing a server based board and if so what

[crazybillybob]

Well I didn't get the big thing I wanted to done this weekend, R2's legs mounted.

It would seem my wife's been checking out Tribal's thread... She wanted a new workbench in the garage, We've talked about it for 2 months this weekend she decides to start it.... :? Well I don't think she did a bad job on ! :)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Workbench01.JPG

Now there's only 2 More to build (they'll have plywood tops for mounting tools).

I did get several smaller thing done on R2 though,

I got the Rear Access Door cut out (both the styrene and Fiberglass)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Frame_access_cut.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Accessdoor_styrene.JPG

I also Reinforced the Fiberglass to keep it from distorting when the unit is attached to the hinges.
http://www.dogh2omods.com/LanImages/R2/Accessdoor_fiber_reinforced.JPG

The frame was prepped for the front skins to be glued on, a few places on the frame had to be ground down or cut out to make room for the resin details.
Before
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Frame_powercup_cut_01.JPG

After
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Frame_powercup_cut.JPG

And one of the Aluminum details was made. It's called a coin return (cause that's what it looks like!) R2 has 3 of them, 2 in the back and a larger one in the front.
I started with some flat Aluminum sheet and bent up the pocket bit of the return.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Coin_Return_01.JPG
Then cut out the front plates.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Coin_Return_02.JPG
A bit of dremeling, some filing later, and the slightest hint of JB kwik, It's done!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Coin_Return_finish.JPG

Here's what it looks like in the skins (just set in for now!)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/coin_ret_inplace.JPG

I'm still hoping to get the legs mounted this week...
Only problem is I have to remake the mounting plate, I miss aligned them by 1/2" ....I've got almost 1Gb of drawings, pics, etc. for this mod and I mess up the little things....you know the part that holds all the weight! :mad: Just goes to show you even with planning there's always mistakes!

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Shoulder_plate.jpg

More Later
Crazybillybob

[Crimson Sky]

:omg: that is too cool---this is really great to watch---keep it up!

[crazybillybob]

I got a little more done on the rear Access door last night.
The styrene skin and the fiberglass stiffener were glued together (with gorilla glue...I love this stuff!) and Clamped.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Access_glueup_01.JPG

Then Quick before I left for work I stuck it into place (with some tape)..I've gotta clean up some of the glue that leaked out and adjust it for final fit, but it looks like that is going to be minor adjustments at this point! :D

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Access_Temp_place.JPG

I also ordered three motor speed controllers
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/BiderctMotor.jpg
Bi-directional Speed Controller from Electronics123 (http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl;jsessionid=ac112b1e1f435b8f1143034342b98a00cd 4941e32987.qQvJq2PEmlnva30Q-BbQmkLz-ATzr6Lzn6rzqwTxpQOUc30KaNDNo6XKq6zInRmLa3mS8RbCpR0 HoA5Qmh0KbwTNo6XK-kDvrA4Ka3mIqRnvp6iIpAjOp6jynQjM-AbJpgaLax8MaxeQbNiS8Oexo6XHngbynknvrkLOlQzNp65In0_ _?sc=8&category=36&it=A&id=1714http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl;jsessionid=ac112b1e1f435b8f1143034342b98a00cd 4941e32987.qQvJq2PEmlnva30Q-BbQmkLz-ATzr6Lzn6rzqwTxpQOUc30KaNDNo6XKq6zInRmLa3mS8RbCpR0 HoA5Qmh0KbwTNo6XK-kDvrA4Ka3mIqRnvp6iIpAjOp6jynQjM-AbJpgaLax8MaxeQbNiS8Oexo6XHngbynknvrkLOlQzNp65In0_ _?sc=8&category=36&it=A&id=1714)
These will run the Main feet drive, and in the future the dome drive too.

I also ordered 1 Pic flasher to drive all those LEDs in the rear of the dome (why reinvent the wheel)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PicFLasher.jpg
Pic Flasher from Carl’s Electronics (http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/ligh/ck1007.htm)

That's it for now. Thanks for stopping by I'll have more up soon (and some other R2 pics...The Michigan R2 builders are meeting this Saturday In Detroit!)

Crazybillybob

[Crimson Sky]

:omg: LoL..you have everything but clothespins and hair barrets clamping that piece down ---lookin great..did you laminate seperate pieces of styrene to get the raised panel look on the body or is that scribed?

[crazybillybob]

All the skins are 2 layers of 0.04" styrene....I've been meaning to put up a how it was done segment here (Maybe I should finish it and get it posted) as the skins were done long before I started the Log. The 2 layer method takes more time but I love the look it gives! plus it's easier to flex then a solid 0.08" sheet, but is stronger then a 0.04" sheet. (means when I hit things with him I will not have to patch holes!).

Crazybillybob


By the Way those little binder clips (little black metal ones from the office stores) Work great as clamps for small pieces...the Jaw force is strong, the can get into tight places that my bigger clamps/clips can't...and they can be disposable because their cheap! :D (free some places) I like to keep some around to be my extra fingers..... Plus I live in the City now :mad: (move here because of my wife's schooling ) and we have one of those Electric Driers… so we have no clothes pins here, or There probably would have been a few on there too! :D

[Crimson Sky]

The layered laminating method is the best way for big panels like yours--you obviously did your homework ;) People have no idea how strong this stuff is once its laminated together--incredible.

[Rankenphile]

BillyBob, out of curiosity - what do you do for a living?

[crazybillybob]

BillyBob, out of curiosity - what do you do for a living?
I'm an "IT Engineer"....That's the title they.. made up for me when I started here.

I Work for a Software company that supplies test software to manufacturing companies. My responsibility is Internal hardware / network (like 4 of us share this job) and I order and build / install Servers (and some client) machines, as well as setup our software on them (Database stuff too!)....In a nut shell I'm an IT Geek (but I have an Electrical/Electronic Engineering degree...Talk about not using what you paid for!).

Is that painful enough for you? or do you want more details?

(as a side note, I grew up on a farm, my wife is in Vet school (animal doc) We plan on owning a farm as soon as we can!...So I truly am a Redneck, I'd rather be in flannel and denim any day! :D and deal with animals rather than city folk :eek: I'm just pretending to be a GEEK! :omg: )

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Actually, that sounds about right. :)

I was just curious. You've got a lot of knowledge for all sorts of mechanical and electrical engineering, and have always been a big help on this site. I know a couple of IT guys who sound a lot like you.

[crazybillybob]

You've got a lot of knowledge for all sorts of mechanical and electrical engineering, and have always been a big help on this site. I know a couple of IT guys who sound a lot like you.


I'll tell you what, this R2 Project has double my knowledge. I've been talking to guys that have designed things for years, Mech and Eleco. To figure some of the things out, Then I still have to sit here and do the old....Now what was he saying about this angle and that angle.....Screw it!, this looks about right! :D

I've always loved working with kids, Even when I was one I tried to help where I could. Now that I'm in the "Big Kid" category I try and help everyone (older, younger, the same) I've been getting allot of help with this project. Most of it is in the form of Ideas, allot has been in learning skills, and very little has been in work. When I started I didn't know how to weld, lay fiberglass, or see the usefulness in really bending sheet metal (not just 90degs or 45 degs) but designing / fabricating sheet metal. Now I can weld with an oxyacetylene torch, fiber glassing can be fun , and I'm making shapes out of sheet alum that I never thought I'd make!
It's been fun, I guess that's what I call a good hobby. For me it's less about how many cases I pounded out and more about the experience gained in the creation of a case. To that end I've tried to pass on what I've learned to all of you!

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

I think you nailed it, friend.

In the process of putting together the xbox arcade project I've got going now, I've already learned a ton. I've never really done much woodworking before, and knew nothing of soldering and electronics. Now, I'm doing both, and learning about them as I go. That's the beauty of a hobby like this, and having a forum like this with worklogs to pour over in the process - there are so many parts to know about in these types of projects, from basic artistry to electronics design to manufacturing and fabrication, that you HAVE to learn as you go. Nobody can know everything, and the most fun I've had in these projects is the learning.

I can't wait till I get to start working with plexi. Defyant's mods have really gotten me excited about that stuff.

See? :)

[crazybillybob]

This weekend was productive for me :D
I was able to get a few detail pieces painted. This blue color takes allot of time, as there is 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of metallic purple base, 3 coats of blue metal fleck candy, and 3-5 coats clear.. These only have 3 clear I have some touchups to do on some so I'll smooth the clear with 1000grit and lay 2-3 more coats soon.
Some of these pics are a little dark (it was night and I was outside)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Detail01_Purple.JPG
The Purple Base

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Detail01_Blue.JPG
The Blue Candy

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Detail01_finished.JPG
The Finished Product

I also was able to cut out new Shoulder mounts so hopefully the legs will be mounted on R2 this week! :)

To make the mounts I cut out 2 Rectangles of plywood. Then laid out the start and stop points of my notches. These notches allow me to stand R2 up (2Leg) for transport by removing his front leg. While also allowing me to drive him in 3 leg mode with out him falling over. I used a compass to draw in the center line of the notches.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Shld_Mount_Layout.JPG

Then I center punched holes along the center line, I'm using a 1/4 hole so I tried to keep the centers just over 1/4" apart (less filing later)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Shld_Mount_Arch_punch.JPG

Next It's just a matter of drilling allot of holes.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Shld_Mount_Drilling.JPG

After a bit of clean up here's the finished Product.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Shld_Mount_finished.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/R2_Loaded.JPG
Saturday Morning I loaded R2 Up, for a Road Trip to Detroit for the MI R2-Builders Meet. There were only 4 R2's at this meet and only one that was complete...Sadly my pics of him Suck so their not here. But here are a couple of pic from the meeting.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/ http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/ben_lights.JPG
Matt Bush (Star Wars Artist) Stopped by and fun was had by all! :D

While I was out on Saturday The Pic Flasher came in the mail...WOW that was Fast! So I put it together (some idiot forgot to take a pic of the parts not assembled :mad: ) But here it is all wired up.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PicFlash_done.JPG

And here it is all lite up!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PicFlash_flash.JPG

These big LEDs are just there to test it, I'm going back to the Drawing board with my big display so it will be a little bit before we see it all up and running.

All in all it was a good weekend, my wife was sick with a fever (her flu shot got her!) but was better by late Sunday, but even with that it was a good weekend!

I'll get another update up soon (I've gotta mount those shoulder blocks!)

Crazybillybob

[Malatory]

the Flasher looks like the same one I have on one of my mods that have been put on hold for a while ...

http://dragonfly.bodybydk.com/wopr-e2.jpg

and

http://dragonfly.bodybydk.com/wopr-e1.jpg

[crazybillybob]

If it's the one from Carl's Electronics then it's the same one! (I know that they order it from another company so It's a very good chance they are the same!)

It will drive well over a hundred LEDs If you hook it up per the Directions, but more if you go Series/Parallel!


If you've got any Q's let me know.

Crazybillybob

[Malatory]

If it's the one from Carl's Electronics then it's the same one! (I know that they order it from another company so It's a very good chance they are the same!)

It will drive well over a hundred LEDs If you hook it up per the Directions, but more if you go Series/Parallel!


If you've got any Q's let me know.

Crazybillybob

same one ... no questions ... Just need to finish the project, and I also started a 2nd one (So I need to really get the work done on both).

I do have a movie of the lights working but i need to re-do it in a different codex so it is not one that will kill my bandwidth.

[crazybillybob]

I've gotta get a Webcam for R2. Once I get it and the display worked out I'll host some video of it.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

The next complicated piece that I need for R2 is the Ankles. They need to be very strong as all the weight of R2 is on them and is multiplied several times in a hard turn (hey if he's R/C I want to play!). My solution to this is Fiberglass Reinforced with a 1/4" alum plate on one side and a 1/8" plate on the other side.
In thinking about this I realized that I've got to make a mold for the fiberglass. So I fired up some CAD software and a few hours later, I've got a vertical Mold. In the pics the mold supports are the Green and the ankle is blue. I only drew in the plywood forms, I'll skin the inside with 0.04" Styrene (I've got some extra around here) this way the fiberglass will be nice and smooth.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Anklemold_side.jpg
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Anklemold_Iso.jpg
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Anklemold_top.jpg

Now That I have a Plan I can start building the mold. Then Lay more glass!
Keep checking in I'll post more as it's built.

Crazybillybob

[Ascoates]

Wow after wathing this project and others and reading just how much people have said they have learnt I really cant wait till I get money together and start this mod and learn new stuff and see how it turns out.

These forums are trully awesome and I really cant wait till I start.

[Rankenphile]

Oh sure, get all excited now, but don't expect an apology from us when you can't decide if you should spend your money on rent or servos and plexi!

[crazybillybob]

Oh sure, get all excited now, but don't expect an apology from us when you can't decide if you should spend your money on rent or servos and plexi!

Wait, Your supposed to stop and think about it? :eek: Hands down the answer is servos and Plexi. :D Wait that's a trick Question, I don't pay rent I have a mortgage :)


Crazybillybob

[TheGreatSatan]

Damn! You're one high tech redneck! How the hell are you gonna fabricate that stuff??

[crazybillybob]

Damn! You're one high tech redneck! How the hell are you gonna fabricate that stuff??
With a little "Farmer" Engineering, and my trusty band saw.

Look for an update in the morning and you'll see the start! :D

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Yesterday I stopped by ASAP Source (http://www.ASAPSource.com) They're located just up the road from my office. I was there for cheap Aluminum plates ASAP calls them randoms, really it's just scrap or mistakes from cutting or machining. I picked up 2 6"x9" 1/4" 6061 Aluminum plates, an a 18"x24" 0.08" 3003 sheet for $17us (that's with taxes). I was happy :D , to top that find off the hobby shop called, I went there looking for retractable landing gear door hinges (http://www.fccmonline.com/lanimages/r2/Robart_Hinges.JPG) ( because their designed to allow the door to close flush with the skin of the plane when the hinge is mounted inside the plane), we had to order some and they had came in. So here's my haul form yesterday.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Alum_sheets.JPG

I also started cutting out the plywood supports for the mold (this is how I'm going to fabricate all those lines in the drawing!). I Printed out all the pieces of the forms on paper (from the drawing) http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/paperout.jpg

Once it was printed I Sprayed the back of the paper with Spray adhesive.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Spray_glue.JPG
I left it get tacky (3-5 mins) then stuck it to the 1/4" plywood. A few minutes at the band saw and you have this.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_Mold_Ply_part.JPG
Support ribs for the mold. I need to add some bevels in a few places then all the pieces will be attached to a base board (makes it easy to move around). Once cut and beveled I'll skin the inside of the mold with styrene (it will smooth out allot of the irregularities in my cuts and it bends easier then plywood! I hope to get the mounting and skinning done this weekend but I have an upgrade to do at a plant also this weekend, so I'm not sure how much I'll get done (IE. If the upgrade is smooth I'll get allot done, if it's not ...You will not hear from me till Tuesday or Wednesday! :mad: )
I also started laying out the 1/4" Alum reinforcing plate as well.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Outer_Ankle_Alum1.JPG

That's all I completed yesterday!
Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Nice deal on the metal.

Can you show a detail of the hinges? I'm interested to see how they work.

[crazybillybob]

Can you show a detail of the hinges? I'm interested to see how they work.

There is a Closer picture of them sitll in the bag nested under retractable landing gear door hinges (http://www.fccmonline.com/lanimages/r2/Robart_Hinges.JPG) in the post (and here). As I have not taken them out of the bag yet, so can't do any better. I was really tempted to open them up last night, but there's some tiny screws and nylon bushings in there, and my one cat runs off with anything not nailed down (for some reason it ends up under couch or dresser? :? ). But I will make sure there are sevral pics of the hinges (with very good detail). As I need sevral more of these for the rest of the doors on R2 I maybe make some of my own too! So you'll be seeing allot more of them don't worry ! :D

Crazybillybob

[Defyant]

this is how R2 is meant to be built!

[crazybillybob]

Hi All,
As you could guess I made no progress over the weekend, In fact I had little sleep over the weekend. Last night after work I was able to get some work done. I have both the Aluminum Plates cut out for the ankle (I've not worked with this thick of aluminum before with my cheapy band saw...Wow it cut like warm butter, the Cheap band saw cut 1/4" Aluminum better then it does 1/4" plywood! :D ) I still have to drill the hole in the plate, but I've gotta pick up the bronze bushing that goes in there first!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_Plates.JPG

I was also able to put the Bevels on the Plywood mold supports and Dry-fit them on the Mounting board. This will give you a better Idea how I'm going to make the fiberglass molds. I see that I'll need some added cross supports but those will be easily added.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Mold_DF_TOP.JPG http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Mold_DF_SE_ISO.JPG
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Mold_DF_NW_ISO.JPG

With the mold form and Aluminum plate laying around I had to show how close they fit together.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Mold_DF_Alum01.JPG

Once that was done I took a closer look at the hinges I'm using on R2's Doors (yes several of the doors will open on R2!)
Here is the way they come. The hooked part goes on the door then the nylon busing and bolt hold it to the small mount. To put this in perspective A Grain of minute rice is longer then that lock nut is wide!.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Hinge_dis_detail.JPG

This is how they look put together.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Hinge_ASM_DETAIL.JPG

That's it for now, I'll try and get more up later this week!
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

This case is still alive. I was under the weather last weekend and spent the first part of the week out of town for work. Now that the family has left (turkey day's over here!) I hope to get some more work done on R2 this weekend. :D The Down side is my wife is making me go out into the early bird crap @ the mall before I can start working in the garage! :mad:

Good night and good Luck!
CrazyBillybob

[crazybillybob]

I'm back, With the holidays, and work kicking my butt, updates maybe a little slow for a few weeks (but should be better after the first of the year!).

I want to start by saying the old adage of "measure twice cut once" needs adjusted, to read more like this "When measuring twice before cutting once, make sure your looking at the right drawing!". I've got really good plans for R2, too many! When I made the legs I measured the aluminum core 3 or 4 time before I cut it (because I only had one piece and it's hard to come by!) When I cut it was dead on...:D The problem I was looking at the wrong drawing :eek:, so now there 4" short. To add insult to injury There also covered in styrene held down by contact cement. I also have a 3.391" hole to drill 90% of the way through the leg for a detail piece to sit in.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_skinned_hub.JPG

The Answer is I'm going to make a .25" thick aluminum plate to go under the detail. This will let me move the Aluminum core down the 4" it needs. Easy right .:rolleyes: . I mean the skins only held on by contact cement, I've heard horror stories about it letting thing peel right off. IT took me an Hour to peel one side off the leg. I separated the ply’s of the plywood in the leg, this stuff is tough! (Elmer’s brand rubber contact cement!) . Here is the leg after I sanded off some of the left over rubber cement.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_noskin2.JPG
The black circle is the hole that needs to be cut out.
I've gotta pick up some more Aluminum plate from ASAPSOURCE (http://www.ASAPSOURCE.com) before I can go much further with the leg refit.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_thin_plate1.JPG
On the Ankle I was able to cut out the 0.08" thick Aluminum sheet to shape. I don't have a vise big enough to put the bends I need in them (the two black lines about 3/4 of the way down on the shape). But we have a good size vise at work, so I'll bend them there one night after work.

I have about 70% of the mold done (sorry no pics, the glue was drying :mad: )

It's getting there, the legs/ankles are the big hold up now!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I've started fixing my leg issue. I've got the plate cut and the bolt and wire holes laid on it. Also the recess for the plate was cut into the leg. I've have to cut the recess into the Aluminum extrusion (the tube in the middle of the leg) yet. Then there will be allot of tapping this weekend. :D
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_noskin_plate1.JPG
I'm only making up one of the modified legs, I want to make sure it will work before I ruin both the ones I have done. :rolleyes:

The glue on the mold has dried. So here's a look at it. Just a few more pieces and it will be ready for glass!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_Mold_assembled_sides.JPG

That's it for today. I'll try and get some thing up this weekend as well.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I got my leg fixed up. I've got to do a little tweaking (grind down screw ends) but other than about 10 mins of clean up it's done.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_noskin_finished.JPG
It doesn't look like much but there is a lot of work in getting every thing aligned and fitting correctly, The leg beam took allot of modification to allow the bolts to sit correctly (there are very few flats to work with on the inside of the beam, it's mostly at higher angles)

I also Fitted the Detail piece into place.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_noskin_finished_outside.JPG

Now to finish the ankle mold and get an ankle on this leg! (I've gotta have one done before I head back home for Christmas. That way I can weld up the slots in the feet to fit the ankle joint correctly.)

More soon!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Just to give you all an Idea of what I'm working in.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/snow.JPG
This weekend was the warmest for awhile we hit 24 degrees F. :D

I've been finishing the ankle mold and the reinforcing plates.

Here's the finished mold.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Mold_Complete.JPG

Here's a couple shots of the Reinforcing plates all assembled, but not trimmed up.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_plates_top.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_Plates_side.JPG

Here's a close up of the tip after they were trimmed up.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_tip_finished.JPG

I also cut out and mounted the ankle "Bracelet" in this shot of the assembled leg.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_ankle_plate.JPG



Now this week I'm planning on laying the glass in the mold to complete the details on this ankle. Assuming I can keep the garage warm enough to lay glass. Over the next few weeks I'll be working on the center foot shell, the outer feet frames, and motor mounts.

Thanks for checking in.
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I sent some drawings off last week to have some prototype circuit boards made, they're due in tomorrow. They are for the two small led arrays on the front of R2's dome. The circuit allows me to program in different patterns (this means words) via the serial port on a pc or let them run randomly (like R2 would in the movies). Another guy (Dave) designed it I'm just seeing how this board place does (as we may order several more of these for the r2 builders group.). Once they get in I'll snap a few pics and post them, it will be a week or three before I get them up and running (other parts still are not here yet), once I do you'll see them (think video here :D) This type of flashy stuff is what everyone expects to see here ;) not a bunch of wood and aluminum.

Thanks for sticking around, I promise soon we'll get to the "fun Stuff" the motors and wiring...maybe even the part with a CPU or hard disk! :lol: It's gotta have legs before it can drive around. I've got about 22 weeks (give or take) to MML6 So things are going to start rocking soon (cause I've gotta get practice driving R2 around before MML!)

Billybob

[Malatory]

Nice to see more work getting done .. and can't wait until you get the small video of the LED's working.

Also hopes it warms up so you can do the fiberglass.

[wingman358]

I just read the whole thing, billybob. Lookin' shweet so far! Can't wait for more updates...

[crazybillybob]

Thanks Wingman,

There will be many more update in the next few weeks (though I will be mostly off line the week between Christmas and new years....I'm going to the land of very slow dial up think 28.8 or 33.6 and that's on a good day :eek: :mad: ). But I'll be off and have access to all the metal working tools that I need to finish the feet and motor mounts :D oh, and I'll take my Digital cam with me so I'll have pics to share!!!;)


Crazybillybob

[wingman358]

Sweet, sounds good. And those feet / ankles are looking fabulous. The mold looks pretty l33t itself.

[Stigma]

http://www.fccmonline.com/LanImages/R2/MWr2BG05.JPG
yet another evidence that American fastfood is bad! (haha:D)

Nice mod btw:) Keep it up!

[crazybillybob]

I spent the weekend with my wife's family, a nice family Christmas gathering.

But I did manage to get some work done on R2.

I mounted the 3/8 x 1/2x1 Bronze flanged bushing in the ankle.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_outer_bushing.JPG

The Slot for the Ankle was cut into the foot shell.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Foot_outer_sloted.JPG

We also figured out what Size channel was needed to mount the ankle to the foot. It's going to take a piece of custom bent angle iron (1.25" x 1.5") and a piece of 1.25" flat to make.. So I've got it on order (father in-law is going to pick it up at a local supplier he works with), that way next week I can cut it and weld it into the foot.

Also on Friday I received the PCB prototypes that I sent out.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Frt_logic_pcb_front.JPG
Front

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Frt_logic_pcb_back.JPG
Back

The rest of the parts for the display should be here soon. :D

[temmink]

I still giggle when I see the rather feminine purple R2...

[crazybillybob]

Good Morning R2 fans,
It took me 3 weeks of work to design and build the last Leg. The second leg I got all the parts cut out in a few hours after work last night! :eek: I've gotten an offer to weld all the Aluminum parts together on this one, but I have to have it packed and ready to ship by Thursday morning before I leave for work. Having welded will save me more time as 70% of the time spent on the last one was lining up all the boltholes. It's not as easy as I thought it would because the extruded Aluminum tube isn't perfectly flat, it's really close but not as flat as the machined plate that it has to match up too, so it throws things out of line a little bit. My other hope is that I can also get the ankle for the center leg laid out and cut so It can be welded at the same time, that may not get done!!!:( :redface: But I'm going to try!

Here's the pic of the second outer leg pieces (I'll save you all the bandwidth and just post one pic of the group of parts)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg2_outer_parts.JPG

Crazybillybob

[tybrenis]

Looking really good CBB! Good luck with getting everything done, I know you'll do a good job no matter what. You seem to have a LOT of past tech./workshop kind of experience, do you have background in that industry?

Great job!

[crazybillybob]

Looking really good CBB! Good luck with getting everything done, I know you'll do a good job no matter what. You seem to have a LOT of past tech./workshop kind of experience, do you have background in that industry?

Great job!

I'm a Computer tech, and Have done a little woodworking for some time, and this is not my first case mod. I learned allot on previous projects, as well as on this project (never be afraid to as someone that knows how to do something for advice, most will help you with no issues!).

Glad you like it!

Crazybillybob

[Malatory]

Kids are in bed, house cleared of wrapping paper, and visiting the forums to give those a late merry christmas.

Hope you, the Family and R2 had a merry christmas. :)

[crazybillybob]

Thanks Malt,

I'm back in the world of high speed internet access...So look for an update soon!

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I got allot done over the Holidays :) I'm still going through all the pics, so this is just the first of several updates that I'll post over the next few days.


One of the first items I attacked was to install the channel into the outer feet. The ankle (and leg) assembly attaches to the foot via this channel, The motor mounts will also attach directly to the channel. This allows all the weight to be transfers srtright down to the wheels, which means the foot shell carries no weight (lets me use lighter weight materials here!).
This is the Channel. It's 1 1/4"(3.175cm) wide and 1 1/4"(3.175cm) deep and runs the length of the top of the foot (about 9"(22.86cm) at the widest point)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/footchannel.JPG

The Channel was brazed into the foot shell. (I used an Oxyacetylene torch to do the brazing....Yes I did the Brazing for these!:) ) You can see my lovely handy work here.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/S_foot_channel_brazed.JPG

To aid in alignment the notch in the top of the shell was cut smaller then needed. Here it is before it was trimmed to the correct size.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/S_foot_channel_notrim.JPG

I used a 4 1/2" angle Grinder with a cutoff wheel to trim the shell to match the channel. A Carbide bur on a Die grinder and my trusty Dremel helped clean up the corners and edges (I don't want to cut my fingers on any edges!)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/S_foot_trimmed.JPG

With the channel fitting nicely in the side feet, I changed my attention to the outer leg that needed welding. I worked with my father in law to get the leg lined up and clamped in a position that easier to weld.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_clamped.JPG

Then he Tig welded all the pieces together.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_welding.JPG

I think it came out very nice.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ankle_Welded.JPG

Now I need to get the rest of the pics organized....Stay tuned for more updates.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I've been getting some Questions about the Aluminum welds. I know the pic I posted was a little blurry so I took a few better ones last night for you all.;)

Here is a couple of close up shots of the welds.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Alum_weld01.JPG
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Alum_weld02.JPG

The Tip of the Ankle is made up of 4 pieces of .25"(6.35mm) 6061Alum,and 1 piece of 0.08"(2mm) 3003 Alum. The entire tip was welded together. I've still got a little clean up to do on it but not much.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Alum_weld03.JPG

This is what the whole thing looks like together.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/OutLeg_welded.JPG

I'm going to Split this post into 2 to make it easier to follow. The next part will be on the Motor Mount.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I'm going into Detail on the motor mount because of Questions on it, and Other R2builders maybe using the same budget Scooters or something similar.

The first thing after I cut the motor frame from the scooter frame was to add this piece of angle to the front of the frame section. It will be used to strengthen the frame and a place to bolt the motor mount to the channel.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_Lmount.JPG

The next step is to make up a strip about 1.25" (3.175cm) wide and 5.5" (13.97cm) long. This strip will have 2 .25" (6.35mm) holes drilled into it. I brazed nuts on the back of the strip for easier mounting. I also made a Tee brace up out of some .25" (6.35mm) box tube and a strip of metal, The Tee will also have a pair of nuts brazed to it.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/M_Mount_Plates.JPG

The Tee is Welded into one end of the Foot Channel (on the inside of the foot)http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_T_Brazed.JPG

The Strip will get welded on to the motor mount but, I had to cut a piece out of the motor mount for it to fit in.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_Strip_weld.JPG

Also at this time the Mount section that was cut is bent down so that there is about .25" (6.35mm) of clearance from the tire,
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Wheel_Clearance.JPG
this lowers the ride height of the foot.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Ride_Height.JPG

The reason that the nuts were brazed in was to make repairs and inspection of the motors easier. The Motor mount is held in by two bolts that go through the L bracket and into the Tee.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_L_Bolt.JPG

and two Screws that go down through the Foot Channel and into the motor mount strip.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_Mount_Screw.JPG
I'm not sure I like the big pan head screw there, I might change that to a different kind...Counter sunk maybe?

The Whole thing looks like this from the bottom.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_mounted.JPG

Next time we'll cover how to make a Center foot shell out of an old computer case. :)

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

As Promised here’s How to make a center foot shell from a Pc case.
First you go to the PC Junk pile and pick out a nice case. I picked the Gateway 2000 desktop you see under the printer (Red Arrow).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PC_Pile.JPG

After Removing the Case your left with this.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/GW2000DT_noskin.JPG

Here is the case that I used for the Side Feet shell a few months ago...(Ok it was like 10 months but who's counting)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SF_donor.JPG

After You have the case Just trace your pattern onto it (I forgot this pic, I really wanted to get this thing made!)
Next We used this neat gadget (it's like $20us from Northern Tool) It's a Sheet metal cutter. You pull on the handle and it spins the blade that cuts and feeds the sheet through it. This thing make long cuts easy (The other option is a hand nibbler, or Sheet metal shears (Tin Snips)).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SM_Cutter.jpg

Once it's all cut out we bend. We don't have a break so HillBilly method! For nice sharp corners you need to use a piece of angle Iron tightly mounted in the vice. Clamp the metal to the Angle and push down. For the smaller pieces we used a solid steel block and a C clamp to bend the section evenly. If there is a edge or corner the isn't sharp enough or is out of shape....Give it a couple of taps with your trusty ballpeen hammer.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CF_Angle_Bend.JPG

The Bending and fine tuning take the most time (and I'm a bit Anal about it!)
I made sure that I left about 1/2" (1.27cm) tabs on one of the pieces that joined to form a corner, This is so we had some thing to spot weld together.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CF_Spot.JPG
We used Vise C Clamps to keep everything nice and tight till it was welded down (there's none on in the pic cause it's the last weld)

Everything went according to plan. We also learned allot on the side feet because the Center foot is best looking one we've made.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CF_Weld.JPG

I've still gotta cut the groove for the channel and Braze it into the foot, but there's a weekend coming up soon!

Just for those of you that are thinking "Hay, is this a PC or RC model?" Santy Clause Brought R2 his first PC Part!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/DVD_DRV.JPG

We're on our way now.:D

Thanks for dropping by.

And remember, "Keep your stick on the Ice" ---Red Green

Crazybillybob

[chris_kalan]

Whoooo Hoooo!! Updates!!!

[crazybillybob]

Whoooo Hoooo!! Updates!!!
There's been one Everyday but Tuesday this week. What can I say I got allot done without having the internet around! (and not having to spend all day at work...That place really puts a cramp in my modding time! :D )

Crazybillybob

[Malatory]

There's been one Everyday but Tuesday this week. What can I say I got allot done without having the internet around! (and not having to spend all day at work...That place really puts a cramp in my modding time! :D )


That is why I am pushing for the 4 hour work week were I work. :eek:

the Director that talked to about it laughed and said as long as I get as much work done in the 4 hours as I do in a week. He will have an issue with my productivity :mad:

but he also said I should keep working towards it as he would like that as well. Work is getting into the way of his skiing.

[crazybillybob]

This week I've been trying to Update everyday. I've had plenty of material due to the week + I took of for the holidays. But it takes allot of Time to read reply’s and respond as well as post new Material. With that said...Tribal I tip my hat to, to update like you do when your working on Blackout is Crazy!

But Here's another update.

I returned home from the Holidays to find My Speed Controller kits that have been on back order since early October are In (my Mailbox!). I ordered 3 of them, One for each outer foot and, one for the dome (or spare parts).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Speedcon_package.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Speedcon_parts.JPG

After I ordered these I found out that other People had tried to use them to Drive these scooter motors and Blow up the FET (Little Black 3 legged power controlling device), or burnt the traces off the PCB. Well The directions that come with this kit tell you that if your going to run 5 or more Amps you need to reinforce the traces by soldering wires to them.
The Adding wire Sounds like a good Idea. But the smoked FETS I don't like that Idea... So after some Research I found that I can put 2 FETS in parallel and this will allow them to handle more current with out smoking ( has to do with the on resistance of the FET, when it's on it looks like a 0.02ohm resistor. So putting 2 0.02ohm resistors in parallel it works like one 0.01ohm resistor so less current is limited.) Well I like more current! But I'll have to make an adapter PCB that will let me use 8 Fets instead of the 4 the Kit comes with. Well here's that adapter board (ReV A).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Fet_Board_RevA.jpg
I'm not happy with the layout, but it's a start. I want to incorporate mounting holes for 4 heat sinks (one for each pair of FETs) and I want to use the Screw Terminals for the Vin Ground and Motor output.

Once I get this figured out I'll attach the speed controllers to my other Christmas Present (MY WIFE IS THE GREATEST!!!!:D )
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Servos.JPG

Yeap, That's 4 Servos and an eight channel PCM Receiver.
Yesterday I had to drop by the hobby shop (RIDERS HOBBY SHOP (http://www.Riders.com)) and get 1200ma 6.0V Battery pack for the Receiver (RX) http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/RX_Batt.jpg
and order a Crystal for the RX that matches the one in my Transmitter (TX), It should be in next week It was about the only Freq they didn't have in stock. :(

I've also been working on those LED boards that I got a few weeks ago, But you'll have to wait and see that at a later time :eek:

Tune in Next Week For more Exciting R2 Adventures, Same Bat Time Same Bat Channel.

Crazybillybob


“If the women don’t find you sexy, they’ll at least find you handy” ---Red Green

[Rankenphile]

Great work, CBB. I love that you're putting up updates like you have been lately.

Now if I can jsut get off my duff and get some updates on my arcade box... I'm planning on getting some work done on it this weekend, but a couple projects jsut fell in my lap, so it miight have to wait one more week. Grrrrr.

[crazybillybob]

Thanks Rank! I'm not sure how long I'll be able to do the daily posts with out them getting even more ...Dry, now that I'm back to work I don't get as much time to work on my mod as I'd like.

I'm looking forward to see how your Arcade turns out. Good Luck.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

In the little bit I worked on R2 this weekend I had a minor set back. :eek:

I put one of the Speed Controller kit together just to see If I really needed to spend the time Designing a new FET board for it....I DO.
Here Is what happen....Plugs in Motor and Battery...ZZZZ, Snap, Pop, Flames !!!:eek:
The Aftermath...
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SpeedCon_toast_side.JPG
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SpeedCon_Toast_top.JPG

So I spent a few hours Redesigning the board I posted the other day. I Said I didn't like the design, and when I went back and looked at it the was not enough space between the FETs for the heat sinks, and I had a trace in the wrong place (Dead short from V+ to GND) So It was trashed for this one.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Fet_Board_RevB.jpg
Hopefully I'll get this board etched this week and The Parts ordered to finish it.
This was the last free weekend before my wife starts Spring semester of Vet school (doggy Doc!) So I spent most of the time with her. We did manage to get the second workbench in the garage started. It will be finished soon as well.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/WrkBench_2.JPG

It was a Lite R2 Weekend, but a well needed Break! Now I'll get back to work!

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Question - how do you get your boards etched? Is it cheap to do? For a mod I want to do in the future, I'd like to use a custom board, but I don't know the first thing about getting them made. I guess I can always use the radio shack ones, if I gotta, but it would be nice to be able to design it myself.

[crazybillybob]

Question - how do you get your boards etched? Is it cheap to do? For a mod I want to do in the future, I'd like to use a custom board, but I don't know the first thing about getting them made. I guess I can always use the radio shack ones, if I gotta, but it would be nice to be able to design it myself.

I make most of them myself @ home, the Logic LED Boards from a few weeks back I sent out to have them made but only because we're looking at doing allot of them. ...I'll Try and do a better job documenting this one and I have a link around here I'll post for you, It's got great step by step instructions on how to etch a board at home on the cheap but with Very high quality and great results.
Here's the link to the Article.
How To make A PCB @ Home (http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm)

Most of the supplies you can get @ Radio Shack (Ok, you could get them there 6 months ago...But now I'll have to check) OR on line for cheap. I'll post all the links for the sites I use when I put the how too up (It will take me a bit to gather them all up, and I don't have them all here @ work with me today. :( )

TTFN,
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Last night I worked on getting the new shoulder blocks adjusted to fit the legs and the frame, as well as drilled the 4 mounting holes in the spacer block for the right leg.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Shoulder_block_fit.JPG

The blocks still need to be mounted onto the frame, but I had to snap a few pics for you to see where I'm at.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/body_Legs_test.jpg

Tonight I'll fasten the block to the frame and install the lower stringer (Links the bottom edge of the shoulder block together, and hopefully get the Outer wooden shell on the Right Leg.

Crazybillybob

EDIT: I'm playing with Thumbnails, Click Pic to enlarge.

[crazybillybob]

The shoulder Blocks are mounted, and the cross member installed.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Shld_Block_mounted_big.JPG

Also the Leg shell is prepped for installation (still needs a little adjustment for a great fit)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_Skin_big.JPG

I didn't get the Leg shell installed but I really wanted to get another work in progress pic so I just taped it in place with some masking tape.

Here's R2 Back in September
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/R2WIP01.jpg

Now here's R2 Today
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/R2WIP02.JPG


Some of the detail pieces were slipped in so you can get an Idea of where they go, and some are just held on with tape....A dry fit.

Thanks for dropping in....More later,
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Last couple of days have been crap for me. Wednesday my wife's truck Died, Had a loose Battery connection. Not Hard to fix just took forever to find (Oh, and I missed work fixing it :( ) Thursday Afternoon one of our main Database servers went down at work so need less to say I worked late to get it back up and running. To top it off I found that Some of the most intricate detail pieces that I painted....2-3 months ago still haven't dried.
I painted the whole piece with the Rustolem chrome paint (didn't mask anything off) then I spend 2 hour masking all the little areas off. Then they were scuffed lightly with 220 grit. The purple metallic base was laid , then the blue candy was laid (3-4 coats of each). Now the other parts I painted that day are rock hard now, but they didn't have the chrome on them. These parts are still tacky and you leave finger prints in the paint, and some places are bubbled.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Bad_Paint_01_big.JPG

My answer to that problem....

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Bad_Paint_primer_big.JPG

Yeap, Sand it all the way back to primer, Then Re primer and repaint all the details.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Bad_PAint_primer_full_big.JPG

That's all I've gotten done since the last update...Sucks I know!




Target Practice is coming up this weekend so I'm not sure how much I'll get done....Maybe allot...Maybe none...We'll see.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Well after a weekend of no progress. My Buddy Target practice was up and we went to the local pub, and had some of the best Irish whiskeys...18yr old Jameson, 21 yr old Bushmills, and some Middleton.8)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Foot_Leg_side_big.JPG
This week I made some progress on the leg-Foot joining. I drilled a 3/8" (9.525mm) hole through the channel in the foot. Then ran the 3/8" x 2" (9.525mm X 5.08cm) Grade 8 bolt through one side of the channel, through the ankle bushing, and out the other side of the channel.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Foot_Leg_Bolt_big.JPG

The completed leg Assembly still needs some adjustments. I have to pick up and install some 3/8" washers to go in between the channel walls and the ankle, as well as the bolt head, Channel wall and the nut, Channel wall locations. I'll pick those up today and get working on the other leg tonight.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Foot_Leg_up_big.JPG


Thanks for Stopping by,
Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Great work, as always, CBB. Your attention to detail is inspiring.

So, how far along, percentage-wise, do you think this project is? What is left to do once you finish the feet?

[crazybillybob]

Great work, as always, CBB. Your attention to detail is inspiring.

So, how far along, percentage-wise, do you think this project is? What is left to do once you finish the feet?

I'd Say after the side feet are attached I'm 35%-40% done. (but 50% will come Quickly after!)
The short list of things are:
Skin the outer legs.
Primer and paint Outer Legs and feet.
The Center leg, ankle, foot channel.
Mounting the Front Vent Bracket.
Gluing on the front Skins.
Mounting the back door.
Prep and paint skins.
Etch the Dome.
Drill all the holes for the details on the dome.
Paint the dome.
Wire the Drive system.
Wire the power distribution.
Wire the Electronic Effects.
Install the PC components.
Design an build the Dome Rotation Mech.
Make the Fiberglass Details (needs to get warmer)!
Paint all the remaining Detail pieces.
Mount all the Detail pieces.
Design and build fan ducts for the Front vents (to cool PC and Motor controllers)
Design Batt Charging System.
Design and build the Sound System.
Finish Droid Control Software.
....I think I may have miss some things. Some of these will be done together others can not be completed till I get more parts (ordered or made).
Plus there are some "Added Features" that I'd love to get in him, but I've gotta finish the basics first. It's only taken 2 years to get this far, but I'm getting there!

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

I don't know if you have figured out the design for the dome rotation, but I came across something a while ago that might work for it. I've got it buried in my garage somewhere, but basically it's the bearing track for a lazy susan. You could mount it under the outer edge of the dome, or along a track up inside it if the diameter doesn't fit, along with a tooled gear track along the inner diameter and a motor control to turn it left and right...

I've got it somewhere, I'll have to see if it's still in there. You're a better engineer than I, and you probably have an idea for it already that would work better (I already see problems with wiring getting pulled or twisted in this design if not wired with proper slack, anchor points and a method to prevent it), but if it helps, I can dig it up and shoot a couple pics for ya.

[crazybillybob]

I don't know if you have figured out the design for the dome rotation, but I came across something a while ago that might work for it. I've got it buried in my garage somewhere, but basically it's the bearing track for a lazy susan. You could mount it under the outer edge of the dome, or along a track up inside it if the diameter doesn't fit, along with a tooled gear track along the inner diameter and a motor control to turn it left and right...

I've got it somewhere, I'll have to see if it's still in there. You're a better engineer than I, and you probably have an idea for it already that would work better (I already see problems with wiring getting pulled or twisted in this design if not wired with proper slack, anchor points and a method to prevent it), but if it helps, I can dig it up and shoot a couple pics for ya.


I've got a 12" round lazy susan that has a 6 3/5" hole in the middle. I've gotta make up a plate that will mount inside the dome so I have someting to screw the susan too. That was easy the drive part is harder...As I'm not sure weather I go gear (which I'll have to custom design) or Friction roller...that parts still up in the air. I've gotta get the lazy susan mounted first then I'll figure the drive out! If your lazy suasn has a gear track in it shot me some pics...I may take it off your hands!!! (can't be more then 17 5/8 around though or it will not fit in the dome. I'm still working out the power cord twisty thing.

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Are you planning on allowing the head to turn a full 360, or just a limited range, like 90 degrees?

Oh, and if you need gears of any sort, let me know. I've got a good sized stock of gears left over from my days working in the print shops.

[crazybillybob]

I'm looking into making it do a full 360 degree rotation. But I'll have to see how everything fits together, to decide how to make it happen.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I got a little more done this weekend.

Both feet are bolted the legs and R2 is standing on his own now.:)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Standing01_big.JPG

Now Everyone wants to get into the Action!!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/bugstanging_big.JPG

I also realized that I needed to stiffen the open side of the outer feet, I'll also try and give you a better Ides as to how I've done all the sheet metal work so far.

I started out by making a pattern.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/foot_round_temp_big.JPG

The Pattern is transferred to sheet steel (this is 22guage steel), then it is cut out, I used "Tin Snips" (also called Aviation shears) to do this.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/foot_round_layout_big.JPG

Once that is finished we move to the bending. On these pieces there will be a smaller bend about 1/2" up from the bottom then a hard 90degree bend about an inch up from that. There should be an inch or so flat then arch up into 90.
I start with the hard 90, then the slight angle, and finish off with the arch.

Being a home shop I don't have a sheet metal brake, but I do have a nice piece of angle Iron, and some clamps.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Rnd_bend01_big.JPG

Then Apply Pressure and smooth out the high spots with a ball peen hammer.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Rnd_bend02_big.JPG

Once both angles are bent you get something that looks like this.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Rnd_bend03_big.JPG

To add the Arch I used a piece of Iron gas pipe instead of the angle Iron.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Rnd_bend04_big.JPG

Just apply gentle pressure till the metal is in the shape you want. Smooth the high spots (they look a bit like bubbles) with light taps from the ball peen.

I'll be posting pics of the finished pieces tonight, I seem to have forgot to bring them with me this morning. oops:(

Thanks For Stopping in!

Crazybillybob

[hxcguitarist]

great work CBB! i have enjoyed following your work log! keep it coming! :D

hxcguitarist

[crazybillybob]

great work CBB! i have enjoyed following your work log! keep it coming! :D

hxcguitarist


Thanks, HX ....I'll be here till he's done.....Then I'll still be here just with a diffrent mod :D



Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Good Day R2 Fans.....Welcome to another Fun filled update.....

After all that bending and shaping this is what you get.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/foot_round_plate_big.JPG

I've got the piece dry fitted into the foot where it will be. It needs a hole cut out for the end of the scooter motor and a little more adjustment on the gaps but most of that will be taken care of when I clamp it up to weld it all together.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/foot_round_dryfit_big.JPG

I was also able to get the center ankle cut out. The main part of the ankle is 1/4" (6.35mm). The tip that the bolt will go through is reinforces with a piece of 1/4" and 1/8"(3.175mm) on each side.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cnt_Ankle_cutout_big.JPG

The Center foot shell also got the channel path cut out of it.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cnt_foot_Channel_cutout_big.JPG

Now I just need to get the channel cut correctly, and weld it in place.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cent_channel_layout_big.JPG

Moving to the other end of the Droid. I've been asked about how I'm going to get R2's head to spin....
Here's my choice.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/dome_bearing_big.JPG

It's a 12"(30.4cm) round Lazy Susan (picked up at Lowe’s). I'm still thinking about weather it's going to be driven by a gear or, friction drive type assembly. Both have their pros and cons. One thing for sure I need to have a way to get power up into the dome that still allows 360degree rotation. I've got a few Ideas but they all depend on how I turn it. Let me know if you've got a great Idea (or even a good one...) for these problems....

Thanks for dropping in...I'll be back soon with more from the Backwoods Lab.

Crazybillybob

[wingman358]

Lookin' good, crazybillybob!

[Rankenphile]

You know, the thing I love about this worklog the most is that you really get down into the nitty-gritty of a fabrication job like this. It's not just "I'm polishing the heat sink for my fancy new $600 video card", it's "This is how I bent the metal that supports the cam that turns the gear that spins the doodadd I fashioned out of duct tape, aluminum scrap and hillbilly gumption".

Keep up the great work, CBB.

edit: About your drive mechanism - I'd still recommend a gear drive. You can control the speed and accuracy a lot more, at least the way I've got it figured out in my head. If you can build a right-angle lip inside the dome to run a toothed track - such as a flexible drive belt securely attached to the angle lip - and have an appropriately sized gear (you can get very good precision gears at RC shops, but I'm sure you already know that), then you should be good to go. One thing to consider is properly shielding the motor away from any computer components with some sort of Faraday Cage (spelling?) to prevent the electric motor's electromagnetic pulses from interfering with the operation of the system - I've got a great horror story of a friend of mine using an electric screw gun on the inside of his computer and pretty much destroying the data on one of his hard drives.

I'm still stumped on preventing the wiring from tangling or pulling out, especially after repeated turns back and forth, putting stress on your solders.

I'm sure you've got a lot of this down, though - like I said before, you're one hell of a better engineer than I am.

[crazybillybob]

I've been musing about slip rings lately.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/dome_bearing_Slipring_CAD_big.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/dome_bearing_Slipring_CAD1_big.JPG

The down side is that with the slip ring in the middle I have to work out a gear set that would run around the out side of the bearing. The larger gear would have to attach to the bottom of the plywood and the whole thing can't be to thick (about 1/2" max (1.27cm)). Anyone have software to design a 16"(40.64cm) gear? and a 2" (5.08cm) matching gear? OR a plug-in for AutoCAD that will do it. As I don't know how to calculate all the things needed for a gear (I'm sure they taught use the basics in collage physics...but I don't remember anymore).

Better yet anyone have a 16" -18" (40-45cm) Gear laying around? (that is light weight less then 5 lbs (2.26Kg))...

More or less Thinking out loud here....If you've got Ideas....Join in..!


Also Started looking into Prices on the PC Parts I need. Between Mini-box.com and newegg.com I should be able to get all the parts I need shipped for about $600US. Now I just need to get my Tax info so I can Get my return and order these pieces!!!

Crazybillybob

[chris_kalan]

An idea I had would be to run gear tracking around the lower edge of the head. Then you would just need a motor and a single gear to be able to spin the head as you needed to.

[crazybillybob]

That's the basic Idea with the Gear. I was just going to mount it to the plywood as it's easier to find gears smaller then 18" around. Which is what I'd need to mount it to the dome.

Thanks for the Idea...

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

You know, I've been mulling this thing over all day at work, because I love puzzles like this. I want to work something out on paper when I get some time to actually fiddle with it but one thing I realized is that I'm pretty sure faraday cages don't work for elecrtomagnetic waves, only radio waves and such.

Hmmmm..... how do they do shielding for speakers to prevent damage to CRT screens?

[chris_kalan]

Here is my idea (image in perspective of looking at the underside of the dome)

http://www.geocities.com/christophoros1205/r2spinner.JPG


The motor would need to be large depending on how heavy the dome is, but this is my general idea. Hope it works out for you..


Oh, just realized, it would be a good idea to put a railing on either side of the track or on the gear to make sure it doesn't fall off the track.

[Rankenphile]

That was my first idea, as well. I have another plan I'm just trying to figure out the fine details of right now that might actually work better... I can't wait to see what CBB ends up with for this, though.

[crazybillybob]

I've came up with this design for the Gear if I use slip rings. If the gear comes out nice I'll use it for any setup. As with most of the rest of R2 I'm trying to save money so I'm going to make these gears myself, at home with my small collection of power tools and hand tools(I think the Router and Jigsaw will be getting a work out this weekend):eek: . Don't worry I'll take pics good or bad just so you all can join in the fun!

I went with the gear close to the outside of the dome for one reason clearance between the Bearing (12" OD) and the Motor Gear (about 2"-2.5"). There was no other setup where they wouldn't hit or rub one another.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/dome_bearing_Slipring_Gear_CAD_big.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/dome_bearing_Slipring_Gear_CAD1_big.JPG

I still don't have the motor to drive this, but I'm thinking about it. Most likely it will be a small 12Vdc gear motor running about 300-600RPM max. I'll have to see what some of the surplus stores have cheap.

Let Me know what you think, or if there is something really wrong that I missed Let me know that too!;)

Crazybillybob




Yes, Chris it looks like your drawing! Just not mounted to the dome...The dome is egg shaped and this flat gear was hard enough for me to draw I don't want to make it a 3D complex curve.

[razorsharp]

its awesome

[Dozr]

Very cool. Great ideas Hillbilly:D

[crazybillybob]

Well I had a weekend full of fun and building....I blew most of Saturday playing BF2 online (first time in 2 months!) so Sunday I worked on the dome disk and the gears....

First thing was to cut out some rough disks they were about 19"(48.26cm) in diameter I just whipped them out with my jigsaw (no where near round!!!)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_Rough_disk_big.JPG

Now to make them round. I whipped up a jig for my router table. Not much just a piece of 1/4" plywood bolted to the top. then I measured 9 1/16" from the inside of the 1/4" straight cut bit in the router and set a hole (for a screw). I drilled a slightly bigger hole in the center of each disk (made the screw snug but would let the disk still turn).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/JIG_disk_big.JPG

Once the disk was screwed on I just had to turn the disk and it would be perfectly round. Action Shot!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_Routing_disk_big.JPG

Making the jig and pushing out two perfect disks took less then an hour...I may get more done then I thought.....:D

Next I moved on to the spur gear, this little guy will be attached to a motor and run against the ring gear (I hope).
Here I've got the gear all laid out and ready to cut (I printed out the drawing 1:1 and sprayed the back with spray adhesive, then stuck it to the plywood. Easier then trying to draw it out on wood free hand)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_spur_gear_layout_big.JPG

After the spur gear was cut out I when after the ring gear. It kicked my butt, This shot is after an hour and 2 batteries on the cordless jigsaw. :(
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_Ring_gear_cutout_big.JPG

It's going to be a long day!...:eek:

Well after about 3 tedious hours and 4 batteries I got 1 ring gear (I hope it works I really don't want to have to cut it out again!!!).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_ring_gear_cutdone_big.JPG

Looks kinda nice laying there on the work bench...but I wonder how it looks in the dome? :rolleyes:

The Disk looks good!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_disk_dryfit_big.JPG

The Gears....They Look even better !!:D and they seem to work too! now they just need a little clean up with a file to smooth them all out. (later this week.. cause it was late when I shoot these pics!, and my arms still numb from the jigsaw! :redface: )
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_Disk_gears_dryfit_big.JPG

All in all it was a good day. I'll get the mounting hole for the bearing drilled and the hole for the slip ring cutout this week and go from there.

Thanks for all the positive response lately, it helps keep me going. The Ideas and drawings are always welcome.

On a little side note I know that before I've said that R2 will not have a working holo-emitter (projector)...Well I've changed my mind....Stay tuned over the coming weeks for the projector mod (it will stay right here but I'll mostly be working on it!), I'm just waiting on parts right now.. my goal make the projector work (display @ min of 5' away) for less then $100 us :eek: (not counting the cost of the emitter cause I've already got it!)....Let's see if I can pull this off. 8)

Till next time!

CrazyBillybob

[Rankenphile]

Can't wait. I can't believe you cut that gear out by hand. You're one crazy hillbilly!

Ever figure out the problem of running the wires in and out of the rotating dome?

[OvRiDe]

Wow.. now thats dedication.. I hope that little R2 unit knows just how lucky he is having a builder like you.. :)

FANTASTIC work..

[crazybillybob]

Thanks, Guys!
It was a bit painful to cut it out, but once it was done I was on cloud 9!!




Ever figure out the problem of running the wires in and out of the rotating dome?
I think I'm going to try the slip ring approach, It's not going to cost allot and it's easily replaced if it fails! Just gotta order some PC board.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Here is the start of a ....Mini Mod? It's really a sub mod as it's still going into R2 but you get the Idea.

I received the two main components of the Holo projector this week. (the Holo- emitter detail is the white thing in the bottom of the pic).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HIP_PROJ_BOX_BIG.JPG

A Hip Gear Screen Xbox controller (new) and a Holiday Projector (new)..You know one of those things your neighbor has out at Christmas to cast a 15' (4.57M) tall Snowflake on his house. What the heck are you going to do with that crap...They have nothing to do with Computers or Star Wars...:? Stay tuned over the next few days (maybe weeks!) to find out!

First thing is for sure!
They didn't last long in there nicely pack homes.....Or in one piece for that matter :eek:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HIP_DISASSM_01_BIG.JPG
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PROJ_DISSASSM_01_BIG.JPG

I striped off all the Xbox controller pieces of the hipGear. To Get down to the LCD display goodness.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HIP_DISSASSM_02_BIG.JPG

For those of you that don't know (which was me till about 2 weeks ago), these little LCD screen's electronics can accept regular Video signal...and run on 12Vdc. I've been looking @ a few other sites and I think that the wiring in this controller is a little different then ones other sites have shown, So I'll show you what I've found out so far.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HIP_WIRES_MB_ToP_BIG.JPG

Here is the connector that brings all the wire into the controller. The numbers are for the 6 solder pads in front of the connector, These are the wires that go to the Video/Audio board (the ones That I'm after!)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HIP_WIRES_MB_BIG.JPG

Here is the wires that attach to the pads (the numbers match between the top an bottom). From left to right: (1)Yellow is the Video input, (2)Brown Video Ground, (2)Black is Audio Ground, (4)White and (3)Red are your Audio line in, (5)Green is the power supply ground, (6)orange is +12Vdc. You will notice that the video and audio grounds go to the same pad.

I've only got the disassembly done on the Hip gear...next I'll wire up some temp connections so we can test the display out.

Now The Holiday Projector has 2 part that fit into one another that make it work.

The first is the light source and image they are house in this little sub frame here.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HIP_DISSASSM_02_BIG.JPG

The light source in this unit is a 12Vac Halogen bulb...Not going to work on DC so I'm looking into other options (low heat and power....LED maybe?)

The Illumination sub frame slides down into the outer housing. The outer housing holds the optics, these focus and enlarge the image.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PROJ_DISSASSM_03_BIG.JPG

Really I just need the optics from this unit, but it's a nice housing, I don't have to mess with measuring focal lengths etc, so if it fits in the dome I'm using it too!

That wraps it up for this update, I'll have more soon so stop back in!

CrazyBillybob

[onelegout]

Woah this is going to be awesome! :D

[Rankenphile]

I'm excited to see this come together. Thanks for detailing it so precisely, CBB, this is one project I'm sure will be useful for many of us. Expect to see elements of this mini-mod copied many times over by quite a few of us once you get this running.

[crazybillybob]

Thanks for detailing it so precisely, CBB, this is one project I'm sure will be useful for many of us. Expect to see elements of this mini-mod copied many times over by quite a few of us once you get this running.

With all the Q's about LCD's for cases lately, and the low cost of the hip gear screens I figured that we would be seeing allot of them. So I figured ?I've got the tools and the training I'll help the guys (and gals) that don't out.... (All of you guys that work plex do the same for me!).

As for the mini-mod I didn't get allot done this weekend....I've got a rebuilt shoulder (in me not the droid :) ) and it's giving me allot of problems this week so I'm trying to let it rest for a bit. But I did get some testing done....The LCD on the AC adapter, and the Projector with an AC light.....= a 4' Image on the wall @ 10'....Better then I thought it would do! Now I just need to get some pics (to share with all of you) and figure out how to mount it all, then find a DC light source.

If you all start in on your Hip gear screens and have Q's let me know I'll give you all the help I can. (I do read my PM's so don't feel you have to post publicly...If I get allot of the same Q's I'll make a quick post/write up to answer them all @ once...if not it will be one on one!)

Back soon with more!

Crazybillybob

[snickells]

CBB, Are you at all concernd about your wooden gears not being able to withstand the weight of the dome construct? How will you stop them from breaking? Or..... will you just strengthen them?
Amazing work by the way, you truly are an artist.
Steve.

[crazybillybob]

Snickells,
The bearing, not the gears, will support most of the weight of the dome. The gears will only have to be strong enough to make the bearings roll, so they have to be stronger then the friction between the bearings and the raceway (the trace that bearings ride in), the friction can be reduced by applying a thin film of grease to the bearings and raceway. I used Plywood instead of solid wood because it doesn't have a shear face like solid wood does. When you break solid wood you get a nice clean break normally along the growth rings (when the wood is cut in the modern fashion, it's different with quarter sawn ..but they don't do that much any more so we'll skip it). In plywood each layer of wood is placed with the grain perpendicular to the one before it, then they are all glued in place. This is way when you break plywood the edge is uneven and frayed, it doesn't have a common shear point. The only thing that I'm worried about is wear on the faces of the gears where they meet. The plywood my wear faster because it's rubbing together. I'm going to do some testing with CA glue (super glue) applied to the face of plywood and see if this helps cut down on the wear. I hope that in all this I answered your question If not let me know where I lost you (cause I may have lost myself in there somewhere too!).

Thanks for the artist comment! It's scary how Art and Science slam head long into each other allot with me!

Crazybillybob

[crenn]

Have you thought about using a thin piece of Aluminum and covering the edges of the gear...... IF it's done just right, it shouldn't cause a problem and you should have a better wear than just plywood and glue.....

[crazybillybob]

crenn,
After cutting out that gear I'm not in a hurry to cut out a bunch of little bits of aluminum. how would I hold the alum to the face? I'm still not sure wear will be that big of a deal, I mean realy old windmills had wood gears, they wouldn't have used them if they didn't work well!?!
If wear and tear get to bad on the wood gear I can always make a plastic one! I can cut it out myself (a prospect I'm not happy with but would do) or send it to the laser cutters, easier but more expensive in the long run.

Thanks for the Idea not sure how to do it "the right way" though??:? ?? and it's allot of work to do wrong.:eek:

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

I've got a rebuilt shoulder (in me not the droid :) ) and it's giving me allot of problems this week so I'm trying to let it rest for a bit.

So, a new shoulder, eh?


...Got any mods planned for it? :D

[crenn]

crenn,
After cutting out that gear I'm not in a hurry to cut out a bunch of little bits of aluminum. how would I hold the alum to the face? I'm still not sure wear will be that big of a deal, I mean realy old windmills had wood gears, they wouldn't have used them if they didn't work well!?!
If wear and tear get to bad on the wood gear I can always make a plastic one! I can cut it out myself (a prospect I'm not happy with but would do) or send it to the laser cutters, easier but more expensive in the long run.

Thanks for the Idea not sure how to do it "the right way" though??:? ?? and it's allot of work to do wrong.:eek:

Crazybillybob

I was meaning one long thin strip (not so thin that it will tear easily) stuck on the gears with contact cement/rubber. And I think you may be right about the windmills being made only with wood.... but I think they had 'peg gears' (I think that's what they're called). Although plastic ones would be better.... so if you can get a rubber gear track which should help prevent the shreding of the wooden gears.

[crazybillybob]

So, a new shoulder, eh?


...Got any mods planned for it? :D

The Docs already did the mod about 4-5years back....I've got one heck of a scar to prove it! I Just have issues with muscle spasms and weather some times.. It's getting better, now as long as I don't have to shovel anmore snow for a week or two It will be all good!


Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

I was meaning one long thin strip (not so thin that it will tear easily) stuck on the gears with contact cement/rubber. And I think you may be right about the windmills being made only with wood.... but I think they had 'peg gears' (I think that's what they're called). Although plastic ones would be better.... so if you can get a rubber gear track which should help prevent the shreding of the wooden gears.

You know, treating the wood with some liquid electrical tape, or a similar ruberized treatment, would probably help prevent wear on the contacts and would be a lot less work than cutting out an aluminum strip on top. The stuff that they sell at hardware stores for dipping tool handles in would work well for it, you would jsut have to make sure that it has a good temperature resistance and would not stick to itself if it was set up in a gear mechanism like this.

Again, depending on the wood and the way the contact is made, it could all be a moot point. The quarter-inch plywood is pretty strong stuff, and as long as the contact is made gradually and not as a sharp impact, and you're not pushing a huge amount of weight, it should last a good long time.

[crazybillybob]

Welcome R2 Fans, Today here in the hillbilly journal, is the Very Rigged Holo-Projector
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HP_Rigged_Project_BIG.JPG Held together with electrical tape, masking tape and luck.

Here is a projected image in a lighted Room...:(
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HP_TEST_IMAGE_lite_BIG.JPG
Not very impressive....But ok!

Here It is in a Darkened room (not pitch black but low lighting, much brighter then MML or any LAN I've ever been too!) :eek:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/HP_TEST_IMAGE_lite_BIG.JPG

Much better. :D

Yeap, I know the images is backwards, the Lens inverts it when projecting. I flipped it top to bottom to take care of the inversion but never thought of the left to right till I saw this image on the wall….I’ll fix it before the LCD is mounted permanently.


Now mind you this is with an A/C Light, and it seems to give it a yellow cast that isn't show in the pics.

I've ordered one of these 1W Ultrabright LEDs From All Electronics (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/LED-110/340500/1_WATT_WHITE_ULTRA-ULTRA_BRIGHT_LED_.html). I'm hoping that it will be bright enough to replace the A/c Bulb. I also ordered some 6"x12" copper clad board (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/PCB-612/445/6%22#34;_X_12%22#34;_X_0.062%22#34;_SINGLE_SIDE_PC _BOARD_.html) to make the slip ring out of, we'll see how that goes when it gets here.

Now I'll move on to moving the PCB for the LCD inside the Projector case, and making it so the wires pass out the rear of the unit.

Thanks for stopping by, let me know what you think!

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Awesome.

[crenn]

Are you sure a 1W LED is going to do the job? If you're going to replace it, I would recommend using a Luxen LED, they're better if I remember correctly, Find something with high Lumens and get that.... as long as it's price is within limits....

Apparently you need to get another lens to fix the image... but you'll need to work out where to put it to give you your image in the correct orrientation. I did Physics for a while so I might be able to help...

[crazybillybob]

the 1w LED is a Lexon....Just the 1W kind...the 5w ones are a little out of my price range right now....If my wife ever finds out I spent $12 on 1 led she'll kill me as it is!

As for the image I have a lensless solution, I'll flip it over, since it's transperant it will not be an issue! (In theroy right now) I'll let you know if I need help with another lens (hopefully it just works without one :)

Crazybillybob

[crenn]

I see what you mean about the LEDs being expensive:
http://www.ledsales.com.au/cart.php?target=product&product_id=179&category_id=10

I would recommend putting in a convex lens to focus the image, because the picture in a projector is displayed upside down and backwards (if I remember correctly) the convex lens focuses and fixes this problem.
But if you're determined to do it without a lens, then good luck. I don't remember GFx cards with the ability to mirror the image on a screen... but you might be able to find a piece of software that will do that.

[OvRiDe]

Wow.. All I can say "Kick F'n A". Looks like it worked out fine to me.. Per the projector forums I have read, just flipping the LCD should fix your problems no sweat.. Really a nice touch for your R2 unit..

BTW.. anybody tell you lately... You da man?? cuz you da man!!.. heh

[Rankenphile]

Geez, I leave for a whole week to go to Vegas, and come back and still no updates on R2? I'm mighty disappointed in you, Billybob.

:D

[crazybillybob]

Nothing to update....R2's pretty disappointed in me too. I worked on the Projector a little, and stared at the body in the floor...But I'm toast It's too cold to paint, or glass... I do have some welding that needs done but I'm in the winter rut and I've been working late, and when you get into the welding groove you've gotta stick with it till it's done, so I'm just beeing lazy:eek: Anytime now the sun will brake through this crappy haze and I'll pound out the progress. Maybe in April I'll take a day or two off, by then I'll have the pc parts.:D You'll see some progress here soon, I've gotta get the nerve up to lay Dremel to that nice shiny alum dome, get the lines etched, and the parts that need open cut out. But all in good time....Now you see why I've been at this for 2 years!!! I plan too much and think every thing out....then when it come time to do it I just wing it anyway:eek: :D


Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Hey, no offence intended, but any kind of lens is going to flip the image in all directions, so you'd get it the right way around but upside down. I think you need a mirror, maybe a bit like what you'd use in a periscope? Alternatively, you could get a triangular prism to do the job. If you got a lens to do it, i think you'd mess up a couple of other things: mainly the focus at the edges.

I could be wrong, don't take my rough work as law, but i studied physics at Uni last year and i'm confident that's your problem. It shouldn't take much to fix though...

Just before you go out and buy any expensive lens(es?) try out this applet:

Optical Bench (http://www.hazelwood.k12.mo.us/%7Egrichert/optics/intro.html)

I'm not supposed to post this link, but if you want to revise your optics my lecture notes are Here. (http://www.physics.gla.ac.uk/p1/optics1.html)

Hope that helps, and saves you some cash ;)

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

Well more of the same...Last week I was bauried @ work (other two guys I work with were on site in france), then this weekend I was sick as dog with the flu... So nothing got done on R2......I'm starting to feel better so maybe I'll get some thing done this week!


Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Glad to hear you're feeling better, bro. Can't wait to see what's up your sleeves for the next part. I'm really looking forward to the completion of the projector.

[Malatory]

Hope you dont have the same thing I been fighting off for over a month now. Been sick off and on for over the last 2 months. So its been slow on getting some of my work done.

[crazybillybob]

Well, I got back to working on R2 some this weekend. I Remade an Aluminum side box for the main Radar Eye (The Big Blue Squareish thing on his dome), I had one part way put together from close to a year ago, and was not happy with it. So I made this one up.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Sidebox_big.JPG

It sits right up beside the Eye like so

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Sidebox_MainEye_BIG.JPG

Now I just need to get some primer on it (to see if I need to fill any low spots), and the weather looks better for this weekend (32degF) so I should be able to get some primer coats on things :)

I also worked on getting the Utility Arms (The two Blue bands on the front of R2, He used them to run the Com device in EP3:ROTS) sanded down to fit.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Util_Arm_top_big.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Util_arm_front_BIG.JPG

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/UTIL_ARM_DRYFIT_big.JPG

I'll have to adjust the skin cutout's just a bit, but the Arm is ready for a skim coat of bondo (to hide the wood grain). The other arm....Well I nee to remake the "hand" section as it broke when cutting it down.

I also look At the second motor Bracket ...looks like I may have to cut it back apart and flip every thing over So the motor stick out the inside of the foot, as it doesn't fit quite right in the foot currently....I'll get pics up when I figure out how much needs to change....I'm hoping that I can just adjust a few things and not have to cut it all apart..... Oh well the best laid plans of mice and Men! :) I'm just happy that I'm not feeling like death warmed over now!!! I can get back in to R2 again!!!!


Thanks for sticking with me in my long dry spell.
Crazybillybob

[opengswede]

This is an awsome mod. i'm, as always on this forum, amazed.
quick question: did you solve the connection between the body and the dome, electricity-wise. i saw your gear solution but how to you manage wiring so it doesn't get tangled up when turning too many laps in one direction? Or are you going for the owl solution (turn to 180 degrees one way, then, when "midpoint back" is hit, rapidly turn 360 degrees the other way and continue the turn in the first direction)?
i know r2d2 doesn't do that, but it might ease up on the wirings.

-.erik

[crazybillybob]

This is an awsome mod. i'm, as always on this forum, amazed.
quick question: did you solve the connection between the body and the dome, electricity-wise. i saw your gear solution but how to you manage wiring so it doesn't get tangled up when turning too many laps in one direction? Or are you going for the owl solution (turn to 180 degrees one way, then, when "midpoint back" is hit, rapidly turn 360 degrees the other way and continue the turn in the first direction)?
i know r2d2 doesn't do that, but it might ease up on the wirings.

-.erik

My current Idea is to make a Slip ring. Which is simply a circuit board with circular traces on it, which will be attached to the dome. Then attach a set of spring contacts to the body, they should keep constant contact with the traces. I've not tested this yet, but have all the major parts of it and will be trying it soon.....If it doesn't work I've got a few more Ideas up my sleeve.
The very last one is solid cable from body to dome.....If it's a coiled cable you can get many 360deg turns out of the dome before you have issues....I'll just have to remember 1 right ....1 left....and so On.

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Glad to see ya back in the saddle!

How does a slip ring circuit hold up to corrosion and wear over time? I know I've seen them used, but I would think a standard PCB would wear out pretty quickly.

[crazybillybob]

Glad to see ya back in the saddle!

How does a slip ring circuit hold up to corrosion and wear over time? I know I've seen them used, but I would think a standard PCB would wear out pretty quickly.


Thanks...It feels GOOD!!!

As for how it will hold up over time ? :? ? Not sure never made one before. I know that allot of multimeters use the same Idea in them (think Fluke with a rotory dial) and they hold up pretty well with time and moisture. If I can make it work and it doesn't last very long, we'll go to plan B....(Not sure what that is yet!)

Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

I was going to use something like that (mechanism) in a mod, but suddenly i can't for the life of me remember where i needed it. It must have been for my fallout case somewhere, but i've got it all sketched out, and not 'held in memory'. Anyone else pour ideas onto paper like so much theme park vomit? I don't remember half of them, but my sketches serve me well.

Dammit! I just can't seem to stick to the topic! I was going to say that the wear on tear on those parts will probably outlive some other parts on the R2. I have a question: you thought about how you're going to ventilate that thing? With a computer, all the movement circuitry, the HDD's for running the bugger as a server, not to mention the Perojector and lens set up-the frame looks like it might make things a little hot and stuffy in there. Maybe a large fan, like from an old car radiotor put into the body, would help to pull air through and push it out through the bottom? Or are you hoping that passive cooling will cut the mustard in this scenario?

Just remembered where i wanted that mechanism-for my sliding door. Similar idea.

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

I have a question: you thought about how you're going to ventilate that thing? With a computer, all the movement circuitry, the HDD's for running the bugger as a server, not to mention the Perojector and lens set up-the frame looks like it might make things a little hot and stuffy in there. Maybe a large fan, like from an old car radiotor put into the body, would help to pull air through and push it out through the bottom? Or are you hoping that passive cooling will cut the mustard in this scenario?

Just remembered where i wanted that mechanism-for my sliding door. Similar idea.

-Dave

I have some places in the skin that are open (Nicely cover with decritive vents) that will house some 80mm fans (If needed I have a place for some 120mm too) and will be ducted to the PC/HDD and Charging gear. For the Projector I'm trying to design it to run as cool as possible (hence the LED light sources), The dome is all Aluminum, so it should add some cooling in that area, plus some of the dome Pie wedge shapes are going to be able to open, so I can mount a fan in there to help cool that if needed as well.). Hopefully heat will not be an issue (as fans use power...that means the more fans the less run time) but I will not know for sure till I get all the peices installed.
I'm also needing to know how much current this R2 unit will need when charging. My guess is 5-7Amps AC, but I'll have to double check that at a later date.

Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Sounds complex, but you definately got what it takes to pull it off, looking at what you've done so far. What sort of battery are you going to use in there? I'm assuming that you're chucking the battery that came with the scooter-and a car battery's probably too clunky and heavy, right?

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

Sounds complex, but you definately got what it takes to pull it off, looking at what you've done so far. What sort of battery are you going to use in there? I'm assuming that you're chucking the battery that came with the scooter-and a car battery's probably too clunky and heavy, right?

-Dave


Actualy I'm useing tha Batteries that came with the scooters, just for running the scooter motor. Their already wired for 24V I think there 4.5 or 7AH (don't remeber off hand) and with 200Lbs on a scooter made for 100Lbs they ran for 1H+...Hay I needed to make sure it worked before I tor it all apart!

I'm looking at a 12V 12AH Batt to run the PC, American Science & Surplus has them for $9.95. I was planing on running 2 of them in parrallel that will give me 12V @ 24AH.....That should be some nice long run Time on the PC.
Down side is with 6 Batts that is about 40# of weight added to R2....I'm afraid he maybe a heavy little fella (150#+).

My big issue is the charging system. I need to find away that when I plug R2 in that the PC switches to the AC power unit with out rebooting. As well a way to protect the Drive battery charges, so that the when charging the batteries are disconnected from the load. I think I can do this with a set of DPST switchs...Just haven't put allot of time in figuring it out yet.


Crazybillybob

[Malatory]

Have you thought about canibalizing a UPS system for the changing of batteries and Plug power??

might want to remove the Buzzer or you might think your system is having a problem at high loads (sorry DN had to say it)

[Rankenphile]

I was actually thinking the same thing. I have a UPS system that I love, and it switches from AC to DC without a problem.

[crazybillybob]

The problem with UPS are their so dang inefficent on Batteries, Has to do with the production of AC from DC, and This Rig runs on DC any way.... The power supply that I'm looking at is rated up to 24VDC, so I think if I just run the AC conveter in Parrallel with the BATT line I'll be ok that way, then have a Set OF DPST toggles like for the drive charger, that disconnect the load before enableing the chagering I'll be ok......If I get some time tommorrow I'll scetch up a little drawing on how the charging switchs should work (at least in my mind).


Thanks for the ideas,
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

For all those Readers at home that are keeping Score, I laid down my first beads in MI last night (welded)....And my garage is still Standing (there was some unfounded concerns about me starting a fire with the torch in my family!). I was able to Weld the channel into the center foot last night.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Midfoot_Inside_big.JPG

I weld much better then I braze...(the braze is the brassy gold color in there)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/MIDFOOT_OUTSIDE_BIG.JPG

I also ran into some issues while trying to mount the doors. It seems that as the fiberglass has finished curing and aged it has flattened out. So I'm trying plan B. I'm going to make up a plywood Door Frame then mount the styrene to it. (Note separating the Styrene from the Fiberglass was a nightmare...Gorilla Glue does a Very good job keeping it where you put it!)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/RearDoor_PLYFIT_BIG.JPG

I'm going to do a little more design work, as the setup pictured allows the door to flex to much and nothing lines up right.

Also I looked deeper into the motor mount issue. As you can see in this pic there is no way that the motor & Motor mount will fit into the foot shell this way.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_NOFIT_BIG.JPG

So I'll be cutting it in these locations and flipping ever thing over (mount the motor on the outside of the plates where it is on the inside now). This should make everything line up just for the left foot instead of the right.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/MOTMOUNT_TOCUT_BIG.JPG

Not bad for 3.5 hours work :) I hope to get the motor mount cut up tonight, and maybe the door frame finished.

Thanks for stopping by, and come back soon,
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

The problem with UPS are their so dang inefficent on Batteries, Has to do with the production of AC from DC, and This Rig runs on DC any way.... The power supply that I'm looking at is rated up to 24VDC, so I think if I just run the AC conveter in Parrallel with the BATT line I'll be ok that way, then have a Set OF DPST toggles like for the drive charger, that disconnect the load before enableing the chagering I'll be ok......If I get some time tommorrow I'll scetch up a little drawing on how the charging switchs should work (at least in my mind).



Ok, Here is one of the Diagrams I was talking about (It's for the Motor Drive Charging).

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/thumbs/PC_Charge_switch_DIG_thm.jpg

Let me know what you think.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Ok,
Here's the Diagram for the AC to DC power switching for the PC.


http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PC_Charge_switch_DIG_BIG.jpg

Let me know if you see some thing amiss.

Thanks,
Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Looks like you know what you're doing...i'm afraid i only really know about DC, not really having had to work with AC or AC/DC converters and the like. But R2 looks like he's (she? Hmm...i wonder...would explain the whining noises :eek: ) coming along great!

Sorry about that joke.

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

Last night was a night of mixed emotions......
I went ahead and cut the motor mounting bracket. Here is a comparison pic of the completed (working) motor mount for the right foot and the new setup for the left foot. I just took the outer plates and flipped them over (basically turning it inside out). Looks like it will work great!

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Mo_Mount_compair_big.JPG

So I set to work welding the mount back together, Everything was going well when I got to this point.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/mo_Mount_oneWeld_big.JPG

As I went to weld the back of the angle I found that I was out of gas, not tired but my Acetylene tank is Dry.....So no more welding till I get it filled! I'm looking into where I can have it filled (or trade it in) here in Lansing, hopefully they will be open on Saturdays, If not I'll have to send my wife next week (she's on spring break from Vet School!).

Why did I say mixed emotions? I was really happy that the fix was going to be that simple (still allot of work but not overly complicated), and to be so close and not have the power to do any thing about it...is frustrating... But finding the silver lining, as it was 11:30pm I figured I should get some sleep and I'll start in on some of the wood and plastic stuff tonight! (that back DOOR!!! I want to get it done, and seeing as my wife told me I was going to finish the dry walling in the garage as well as rip out the old work bench Saturday. So she could finish and install the new ones over spring break, I'm not sure If I'll get time to work on R2 this weekend. Tonight will have to be door night.

Thanks for the kind words, and the support, stop back again.
Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

I did get some R2 work done this weekend, but not much Dry walling (Had to demo the old stuff in the way :D But It will get done this week).

I was able to get the Rear door to fit in place using the plywood Arches I cut before and then running a 2" wide strip of Plywood up each side (I routed out rabbits for each arch). It fit great when I had it taped into place.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/BACKDOOR_GLUEUP_BIG.JPG

I epoxied the frame together then the skin to the frame. After the epoxy dried I pulled the tape and clamps, some of the skin pulled away from the frame (didn't use enough glue!) No big deal I'll fix it later, and I have a couple of body frame rings that will have to be trimmed back for better clearance, but I'm much happier with the fit this time! Here look for your self.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/BackDoor_Dryfit_BIG.JPG

The Door work was on Sunday night. Last night I started work on one of the detail pieces. It's a vent on the side of R2 under his legs...hence it's called a side vent. I have to modify it a little bit because I want air to be able to pass through the vent (on the "Real" R2s there just for looks) but I'm not that far yet.
I started with a drawing of the piece that I had transferred to card board and cut out to make a template.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SIDEVENT_TEMPL_BIG.JPG

I made the template because I need 2 of these parts and easier with a template then the spray glue method I like. The Outline was trace onto a sheet of 1/8" aluminum. I'm going to go off on a tangent here, The Aluminum that I'm using here is 3001 or 3031.... IF YOU CAN DON'T USE IT. It's real soft and it gums everything up and it flexes so much that I could not cut the inside details with a jigsaw. If you're going for small details pick up 6061, I've used that on most of the other parts I've made for R2...It's some much easier to work with, cause it's just a little harder.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/ALM_SHEET_BIG.JPG

I cut out the slots in the plate with a 4 1/2" angle grinder (the dremel cutoff wheel just loaded up with Aluminum and bogged down the dremel) So the cuts are rough...real rough. I drilled a hole at the head and tail of each slot (so the waste strip could fall out). I would like to emphasize safety glasses again, I busted one of my 4 1/2" cutoff wheels on this and pieces of it bounced off my safety glasses, I still got some grit and dust in my eye but at least I still have an eye!
Once I got the slots roughed in, I attempted to use a carbide burr on the dremel to chew away allot of the excess material....no luck this stuff just gummed up the bur...So I when at it with some hand files. That's the only good thing about this aluminum...it files well.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SideVent_Rough_big.JPG

Here's the part when I called it a night (1am), the top 2 slots have been filed down (there's still some light filing to do, and the corners need worked, but that work can be done in the house where it's warm)
The bottom three slots have just been touched up a little with the burr and the dremel (knocked the slag and real high spots off so they file better).
Hopefully I'll get this or some drywall knocked out tonight after work.

Thanks for stopping by,
Crazybillybob

[montmorency]

looking good as always. keep up the good work!

[crazybillybob]

Well With a little bit of Filing with my "Little" File, I've got the Slots smoothed out mostly. Still need a little work in the corners and ends.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Big_file_big.JPG
My "Little File"

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SideVent_midclean_big.JPG
The Vent

Last week at the end of the week I got a neat surprise. I received a laser cut plastic dome ring. Thanks Andy. It's of the Same design as the wood one I made a few weeks ago.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_Disk_Plastic_Big.JPG
the plastic one.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_disk_wood_big.JPG
the wood one.

Now I just need to get it mounted.

CrazyBillyBob
LocalNut Job and Astromech Tech.............Part Jawa, Part Wookie

[DaveW]

Looking good-glad you managed to save that Vent, things were looking scary for a moment there ;)

Keep it coming! How much work do you reccon's left now? From what i see you have the drive motors and most of the elctronics working, your chassis is coming along great and all your trying to work out is the mechanisms for moving the head and letting the bugger charge up, right?

Not long to go hopefully!

Oh, and my Make Magazine arrived (yay!) which got me thinking: is your R2 a 3 legged, 2 legged, or switching variant?

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

Dave,

I've got allot left. Not all the electronics are done ....maybe 20% are complete. THe frame and bbody are 90% complete. I still have to etch the dome, wire the whole thing up, mount the last motor, mount the center leg (and foot shell). Then thereis the PC install...Haven't even started that. I'm probibly 60% complete with all of R2.....Big thing Is PAINT...It's gotta get warmer here some time!

This will be a fixed 3 Leged R2...I had to give up the space for 3-2-3 mech to the computer. It's cool because I've been using ILM's carbon fiber R2 as my referance, it's a fixed 3 legger as well.


Well off to work in the spice mines again!

Crazybillybob

[jonny_boy27]

heh - read this whole log in one mammoth session and i'm very very impressed. one of the most ambitious mods i've ever seen and also with some truely innovative things in it (the projector).

[off topic] Which vet school is your wife at? i'm in my second year here at bristol vet school [/off topic]

[crazybillybob]

[off topic] Which vet school is your wife at? i'm in my second year here at bristol vet school [/off topic]

She's in her Second year At Michagin State.

Thanks for the pat on the back.

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Hello R2 Fans, Well another weekend has come and gone....And I have more progress to report (and Pics for you!). This installment of the R2Server Worklog will be Pic heavy, I had a camera women in the workshop on Saturday so there's action shots for you.

The goal of this work session is to get the panels cut into the center foot shell. The Panels allow access to the wheel and the mounting bolt for the foot to ankle connection on the center foot. So the panels need to be removable. Plus they add the extra little detail that's on the Real R2.

We start by laying out the cut. The goal is make all the black disappear.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CentFoot_Pan_CutLines_big.JPG

Then Make some starting cuts with the Dremel, so I can get the jigsaw balde in and do most of the cutting. The Jig saw cuts through the sheetmetal faster then the dremel (and cheaper....I use less cutoff wheels this way). Here's what the cuts look like after the jigsaw.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CentFoot_Pan_Cutonline_big.JPG

The turns in the corners were to tight to get with the jigsaw, and there is not enough clearance between the steel and the channel on the top. These areas will be cut with the Dremel.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CenFoot_Pan_Master_WORK_big.JPG

I think that's the first shot of me actualy working in this worklog :)
After some dremeling this is what you get.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Centfoot_1Pan_cutout_big.JPG

And after yet more cutting.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CenFoot_Pan_cutouts_big.JPG

Now the Center sections that were cut out will be reused as the panel doors. To keep them from falling back into the foot shell I made up some sills that will be welded into place.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CenFoot_Pan_ring_no_cut_big.JPG

The sills are laid out on the sheet metal and cut out with tin snips.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Centfoot_Pan_ring_big.JPG

Now before I weld everything in It's test fit time. Masking tape is for holding things in place.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cenfoot_pan_mock_big.JPG

After a little heat and some Welding Rod.....
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cen_foot_sidepan_weld_big.JPG

I've still gotta make the clasps that hold the panels in place yet allow them to be removed for maintenance, but this is what the shell will look like.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cen_foot_sidepan_weld_pan_mock_big.JPG
I've got some Ideas for the clasp just need to make one up, and test it.

Let me know what you think.


Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Looking good!
At this stage we all know you're kidding when you say you haven't allready finished the clasp mechanism. Building an R2 from scratch, and asking about clasps? Stop being so modest!

R2 is coming along great. Looking at your photos...i really need to get myself some work gloves. Can't be Mr. Safety without some gloves.

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

Dave,

Thanks for the vote of confidense,but the devils in the details and I'm trying to get it all Just right. :) By the way when working with gloves and drills be mindfull of the bit and and burs / screw feeds coming out of the hole they can snag your gloves and pull touyr finger into the bit....OOOch...


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

There was progress made on the R2 front ! R2Server is now on 3 Legs. Yeap 3 Legs. I also worked out a panel mounting system for the center foot shell panels. This took a bit of playing and trail n Error, but it works!

To be able to mount the third foot I had to cut out an area the size of the foot shell in the bottom ring (more of those real R2 details, as it's there because that's where the foot would go when r2 is in 2 leg mode....which mine doesn't do!). I started by drilling a hole near on of the corners (yeap it's a little 2.5" hole....Had the hole saw in the drill for running the gas pipe in the body and was too lazy to take it out, but it worked :) ).

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Body_Skirt_Cutout_start_big.JPG

Now A little Jigsaw action and bob's your uncle I'm done.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Body_Skirt_Cutout_done_big.JPG

A little aside, as you can tell from the above pics...there's carpet there, yeap it's the middle of the living room. If your married and you whip out the jig saw and start cutting 3/4" plywood in your living room...be prepared for some flak..... I'll tell you my wife is great! I've done all kinds of R2 building this winter in our home (in the living room). But I've been told many times (by her and others) that most wives don't take to kindly to that sort of thing. So be warned!! Back to the Building


To connect all the legs together (better weight transfer) and maximize space. I used 3/4" Black steel gas pipe. There are floor plates on each outer leg, a union and a Tee between the two legs.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/LEGS_Pipe_ASSMB_big.JPG
Here I'm getting the connections good and tight.

Once everything was nice and tight I installed it into R2 (that's why there's a union there....)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Leg_Pipe_Installed_big.JPG
The third leg (a long piece of pipe) is attached to the downward leg of the tee. The ankle and pipe are joined by cutting a 1/4" notch out of the pipe slipping the ankle in and running 2 1/4" bolts through the pipe and ankle.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CenterFoot_Installed_big.JPG

The Foots on but what about the panels?

Well I simply welded a tab across the top of the panel (sorry no pics?).
That was the easy part. Then I had to figure out how to latch the bottom. The Answer Clips. I brazed on 2 #8x32 machine bolts to the back of the panel.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Centerfoot_PAnelnut_brazed_big.JPG

Then I made some wing clips out of scrap sheet steel, bent to perfection (ok hillbilly perfection) and used a cut down #8x32 Machine screw to hold it in place.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Centerfoot_Pannel_clip_big.JPG

The Finished Product from the outside.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CenterFoot_Pannel_mounted_big.JPG

With R2 Standing on his own I just had to slip a few details that are laying about in place and take a Work In Progress Pic. (haven't had one for a few months). as you can tell I'm really excited about this....In fact my wife kept telling me to go to bed (it was only 1Am) but I couldn't till I got this shot.....
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/R2WIPW3Legs_big.JPG


The End is in sight, I was really worried that I wouldn't finish before MML. Still no guarantee...but I feel a whole lot closer (for the moment!)

Let Me know what you think,
CrazyBillybob

[Rankenphile]

Awesome stuff, CBB. It's really coming along. The WIP shot looks really good.

[crazybillybob]

I was pretty busy this weekend working on R2.

I was able to get the second foot mount mostly welded up (still have to attach the mounting points)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/motor_mount2_weld01_big.JPG

After these welds I was out of O2....so I moved on (got the tank refilled Monday so we're good to go!)

Most of Saturday was spent fighting with this skirt template.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Skirt_temp_big.JPG

The Problem is that it's curved and on an angle. so the angles are complicated. It took 10-12 templates to get it figured out.

I got all the plastic cut out and mocked up.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Skirt_dryfit_big.JPG

Then started the glue up (it's held in with Epoxy....don't want it going anywhere! and I ran out of Rubber contact cement).

hhttp://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Skirt_cap_glue_big.JPG

Still have 2 more pieces to glue on, then I'll get you more pics.

When I was making the Utiliy arms a few months ago I had one slight mishap, on the second arm the band saw blade snagged the hand and snapped it off. So I started laying out a new hand.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Util_arm_Repair01_big.JPG

The Arm is shown too.

Here I've got the new hand cut out and I was toying with the Idea of giving it a pivot point (it's the shaft of a pop rivet). I don't care for the look, and the hand slides off to easy. Think it's getting glue together.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Util_arm_repair02_big.jpg


I also Ordered R2's Computing parts.

From Mini-box.com


VIA EPIA MII12000 (http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.99/it.A/id.361/.f)

M2-ATX DC-DC ATX Automotive Computer Power Supply (http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/it.A/id.424/.f)

AC-Dc 12V 8.5A Power Supply (http://www.mini-box.com/s.nl/sc.8/category.13/it.A/id.279/.f)

From Newegg

Seagate 250Gb 7200RPM IDE Hard Disk (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16822148062)

CORSAIR Value Select 1GB DDR400 Ram module (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16820145505)

I also contacted a fellow R2 builder that created these display boards for the group @ C3. http://www.astromech.net/c3/Lists/Placards/BuilderBoard.jpg
He's going to make me a set for MML (so I don't have to stand by R2 for 4 days answering the same Q's)


http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Despot_run_big.JPG

Lastly my wife and I got a few new tools from Home Depot. They are having a "Power Tool" sale you get a gift card back for so much if you spend so much, also they're having "a sign up for a Home despot credit card save 10%" drive too. So being the tight wads we are we did both.
The rough price for all was about $700, we paid about $600 and will get a $125 gift card too. Now we just have to wait 3-4 days so the balance can post then I'll pay that card off (and not use it again :) )
Yeap, My Tax Refund came in :)

Now I can look forward to assembling more stuff. Wife wants some shelves and cabinets made, now that I have the tools, crap she always finds away around my excuses! :)


As Always let me know what you think!

Crazybillybob



What the heck to they mean insert tab A into slot B....There's not slots just a bunch of square holes?

[Rankenphile]

Lol, your clamps look like they come in a rainbow of fruit flavors!

I know what you mean about having the "ol' ball and chain" force you to actually stick to your excuses... I mean promises. I've now dedicated to designing and building a matching set of bookshelves that look like a stack of Tetris blocks. I wanted to get a tablesaw, she said no, I said "But I can make those tetris bookshelves I designed! You loved those, didn't you?" She said yes. Now I have to. lol.

[crazybillybob]

Well after some time spent welding and adjusting the second motor mount is finished.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Motor_mount_complete_big.JPG

After even more welding brazing and drilling, the motor mount is mounted in the foot shell

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Foot_Complete_big.JPG

So now I have two completed feet :)

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Both_feet_big.JPG


The nice UPS man came to my house again today:)
The Heart of the case mod is here!

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PC_Parts_big.JPG

Now I've gotta design a mount for everything. I'll get to that this week.

Let me know what you think.

Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Is that a motherboard? If it is, it's the smallest damn mobo i've ever seen! What tricks can it do?

-Dave

[jdbnsn]

I can't believe you are building that guy, I just can't imagine how much work that would be. You are doing a fantastic job on it as well, it looks perfect. I have seen many of your posts and they show you have a very extensive knowledge base, now I see that you have skills to match. My hat is off to you! Incredible work!

[crazybillybob]

Is that a motherboard? If it is, it's the smallest damn mobo i've ever seen! What tricks can it do?

-Dave

Yeap, it's a Mini-ITX motherboard only 17cm x 17cm (6.5"x6.5" about). Hasa 1.2 GHz proc, Onboard 2D/3D Accel with Mpeg2 Accel. Six channel Audio, on board LAn, USB, and Firewire. plus others. and only uses 25Watts.

JD,
Thanks, nice to see that my words meant something to someone :)


Crazybillybob

[RangerDanger]

o heart harbor freight

[crazybillybob]

Well there's not much to report on the R2 front...Was out of town all of last week (for work), and I'm going to be gone again this week...:( But while I was gone I got 2 more boxes of R2 goodies :)

The First one was from DarkJediKeith (he pours the best Resin R2 Parts!), It was a box full of Resin details for R2, Sweeeeeet !
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/MoreResinDetails_big.JPG

There will be very little clean up to do on these :) So I'll be washing them, then a light Alcohol bath, dry primer and Paint!.....When I get home.

The Other box was the Netgear 108Mb Wireless Network card.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/WLNIC_big.JPG

This will help him interface with those pesky Trash compactors on level 9!

I hope to get most of the building done in the next few weeks so that I have a couple of weeks to spend painting him, and working out all the wiring!

Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

Can't wait. Good stuff, CBB.

[DaveW]

This will help him interface with those pesky Trash compacters on level 9!

As one geek to another; you da man!

Seriously though, amazing work. Looking forward to seeing the little coot running about, beeping and whistling. (Are you gonna put a noise box in there? It's a neccessity!)

-Dave

[guitar.child]

wow nice. that is awesome

[crazybillybob]

(Are you gonna put a noise box in there? It's a neccessity!)
-Dave

Dave,

I have a peice of custom software that will run in the background of the Server inside R2 that will handle making the sounds....As you said it's a neccessity!


Crazybillybob

[jdbnsn]

Are you going to incorporate a stun gun into his variety of gizmos? I remember in several scenes he sitcks out a small arm and zzzzaaappp! That would be pretty cool, as long as you didn't zap anyone you like.

[crazybillybob]

Are you going to incorporate a stun gun into his variety of gizmos? I remember in several scenes he sitcks out a small arm and zzzzaaappp! That would be pretty cool, as long as you didn't zap anyone you like.

At some point along the way I'd like to have afew gizmos, but for right now I'm not going to be installing any (this way I can get him pretty much done for MML in june)....There will always be upgrades!

The fire extiguisher is one I'd like to do....the stun gun...Too Many state laws, and to easy to get in troble with :)

Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Well It's Great To be Home! If you have not noticed The R2 Updates have been none Existent for the last few weeks, That's because I've been away on Business. I'm back! , at least for a few weeks.

I spent a couple of days setting up the new tool! Here she is in all her glory.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/sawsetup_big.JPG

With the Saw set up I've Started on the Booster Covers, What I thought would be one of the hardest parts to make. Not Now! Here's a shot of the booster covers on the ILM R2D2.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/ILM_Booster_CVR_BIG.jpg
(It's the blue thing down the middle of the Leg)

Here's what I started with....Yeap a 2x4".
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_2by_big.JPG

So I ripped about 1/8" off each side, a 1/2" off the back and Put this Bevel on the top. I did this on a 2x4" long enough to make both the booster covers out of. Saves setup time :)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_Beveled_big.JPG

The next step was to layout the outline of the booster cover, I used my Handy Dandy 1:1 print out for this.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_Layout_big.JPG

Once the layout was transferred I cut it out on the band saw. (Quicker then the jigsaw and straighter on this thick stock).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_cutout_big.JPG

Now you can see that the top of the booster cover (I'm going to call the head) is much thicker then the bottom, and is tapered. So I'm going to make it out of another piece of 2x4" Ripped down to 1" thick and just as wide as the cover. Then I'll hit the bottom with a rounding bit in the router, and finish the curve with a drum sander on the drill press (I forgot Pics for some of this....allot of trial and error here till it worked).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_Head_big.JPG

Ok so now the back of the head is flat and the Booster cover is beveled how do you glue them together? Easy Flatten the area where the head meets the cover :)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_notched_big.JPG

Now I'll add some of the basic details, the small lines were cut in with a hand saw the larger groves at the bottom a 1/4" round head router bit in the drill press...If you've got a buddy with a milling machine....Use him It's hard to keep the bit going straight (of course my drill is cheap and has a ton of run out...that's when the bit and or the head of the drill wobbles and are not dead straight when pressure is applied.) But a little filing and it will be all good. And Remember that all this wood will get a lite coat of bondo to keep the grain from popping up when painted. So Little things can be repaired then too.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_base_details_big.JPG

Now Lets dry fit the basic parts before the glue up starts.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_Dryfit_big.JPG

Now a Healthy does of Gorilla Glue and a clamp, and we're all set.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_Glueup_big.JPG


Once this Dries I'll start working on the last bits of details, for this one then Repeat for the other side. Took about 5 hours to make this one, but I also made the rough cuts for the second (the bevels and Ripping the stock to size) so it added time on, and now I know how to do it....The second one will be much easier and quicker.

As always Let me know what you think, and Click on the pics for bigger views.

Crazybillybob


By the way, R2 is going to MML....Even If I've gotta work on him in the parking lot !!!

[DaveW]

By the way, R2 is going to MML....Even If I've gotta work on him in the parking lot !!!

Heh, sounds like American Chopper on discovery. The amount of times they end up doing just that!

Looks good, but are you certain about using wood for the legs?

Oh, and welcome back! Been anywhere interesting?

-Dave

[Rankenphile]

Looking great, CBB! One problem though - you jsut reminded me I need to buy a good table saw. I just need to figure out how to explain it to the Better Half. Hmmm.....

[crazybillybob]

Dave,
The Legs Of R2 Have a 2x2" Aluminum core....The wood on them is just so he looks right, and the peice I made here is a detail that goes on the leg. Check out these posts for cutway of the legs.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1092&page=13

Rank,
My Wife wanted me to buy the saw!! She's wanted something that we can use to make some things around the house, and the circular saw just isn't that good for finish work. Now My end is that There is a Set of Shelves for the bathroom that I need to make....But I've gotta get use to using this saw ;) First....


Crazybillybob

[Rankenphile]

That's right! I can blame the Tetris shelves I promised her. Heck, I might even be able to get a good router out of this excuse!

[OvRiDe]

That's right! I can blame the Tetris shelves I promised her. Heck, I might even be able to get a good router out of this excuse!
And if you need backup.. you know we are here for ya!! Colaboration of an alibi is part of the modders code I believe.. :D

[Rankenphile]

Lol, all I gotta do is make sure she doesn't see these posts.

[crazybillybob]

{Billybob waves his hand} These are not the posts that your looking for!

:D

Crazybillybob



Lol, all I gotta do is make sure she doesn't see these posts.

[Rankenphile]

Great, now you owe me a new keyboard, CBB. I just sprayed milk all over mine.

[GT40_GearHead]

this is f*****g hilarious, i almost went of my chair, (not good becaus i have a diff on the table ) =))

[DaveW]

Great, now you owe me a new keyboard, CBB. I just sprayed milk all over mine.

Keep it clean! ;)

Only joking.

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

Well here's just a little update. I spent last night finishing up the detail on the first Booster Cover and Started Cutting out the second. I'm not going to bore you with a rehash of the process just the end results.

Here Everything is glued and clamped up. (Yes, Masking tape counts as a Clamp in my world!!)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_comp_GlueClamp_big.JPG

And with the clamps (and tape) removed. I've got to clean up the glue overflow (Gorilla glue foams) and sand evrything smooth. Then I'll be getting out the Bondo. (Ok, I already bondoed part of one....Remember kiddos that when you clamp wood up make sure that you have a block between the clamp and your finished peice....cause if not you have a nice big divot where the clamp was.!)
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Booster_Glueup_comp_big.JPG


That's all from Hillbilly LAbs.......More later, Yeap we're getting closer to paint everyday.....Soon, Very Soon.


Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Looking good CBB! Can't wait!

-Dave

[crazybillybob]

This weekend I was back in Ohio. My Niece had her first birthday on Saturday. But even with that I was able to move forward a little on R2

A few months back you may remember me making these things for the feet.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/foot_round_plate_big.JPG

Well they needed some adjustments. So This weekend They Got adjusted and Brazed into place.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/foot_Sheild_1Big.JPG
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/foot_sheild_2big.JPG

Now I can start the bondo phase (that's just one phase short of paint!)
I'll be running some wire down the legs to run the motors, then putting all the plastic back on them, this week as well as starting all the putty and primering on the Legs, Booster covers and Horseshoes (basicly the whole leg and leg details). Then this weekend I'll start on the mobo mount (I know that's why your all here! is for the PC part!)

Wish me luck...cause I'm going to need it to finish on time!

Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Good luck buddy! Nearly there!

-Dave

[wishiwasmodding]

Lets go CBB hoo hoo, anyone...................ok ill shut up.

[crazybillybob]

I got home Last night and had a package Waiting for me:)
It was the Ball caster I ordered from Atwater Arch. It's a 4" ball in this bad boy....I'll not be getting caught up in sidewalk joints with this thing!!!

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/CenterBall_big.JPG

On a bit of a down note, My wife left me today and took the Digital camera with her :(








But She'll Be back

She's spending 10 days doing veterinary aid in Honduras, Like I said before She's very giving and loves People as well as animals (still doesn't explain why she married me?)..... So I'll not have any pic to post for a bit.. There is a chance that I'll hook up the R2 web cam and could use it for pics, but the image quality is really bad on that thing (640x480 I think is wishful thinking for it!).

I'm going to try and Get R2 moving for mml, But it still depends on weather or not I can get a speed controller in time. So I'll wire him like he needs to be and then I'll start bondo and painting.

Crazybillybob

[crenn]

You had me worried for a bit there. But you should see some of the USB2.0 camera out here, they're not bad and they're about 1.3MP! Anyway, good to see your progress so far. I need a job, then I'll be hopefully starting my PCBot, won't be a good as this, but I'll enjoy doing it.

Anyway, good to see how well it's doing, if you get it moving, make sure to make a small video of it.

[crazybillybob]

OK, You all talked me into it!
I'm shooting for R2 to be moving for MML :)
SO, I ordered this

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/ScorpionXL_big.jpg

It's the ScorpionXL from Robot Power.http://www.robotpower.com/products/scorpion_XL_info.html
It's a nice little Speed controller, that should take care of R2's movements.

With that on orde I started bondoing R2's feet....(by the way I hate bondo, not the product..just the whole putty,sand,putty,sand,putty,sand thing I've got going on.. Might help if I wasn't so ANAL :) ) Sorry no pics...but I'll make sure I put some up later in the week (you know when my wife gets back with the camera).

On deck this week, more putting, and sanding, also going to whip up the mobo tray and hard drive mount (drawings nearly complete...I'll post them instead of pics) .

Crazybillybob

[DaveW]

Might help if I wasn't so ANAL ) Sorry no pics...

That's probably for the best.


OK, You all talked me into it!

Yep, sure forced your hand. ;)

Can't wait, loving this mod. Plus, you do a great worklog. It's such a shame i live in the UK, or i'd attempt to visit you at this MML thingie, whatever it is.

-Dave

[tybrenis]

Lookin good! If I can actually make it to MML (doubt it) I will be lookiing forward to seeing you there!

[crazybillybob]

It's been a bit since we've had a proper update to this worklog! So here we go!

Well the putting and sanding is mostly done on the feet, as you can see they've got a coat of primer now. There's some light touch up work to be done yet be there close.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Feet_Primered_big.JPG
If you look at the top of the pic you can see the Red and White 14Ga Power wires for the motors are ran down through the legs.

I also have the battery boxes, (they'll mount to the inside of the feet) These were hand crafted from PVC plumbing pipe (thanks Craig!!).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Batt_box_new_big.JPG
Now I just need to make a few holes for the motors and mounting and they'll be ready for prep and paint.

While we're on the feet I also got the Caster mounted in the front foot.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Cent_Foot_caster_big.JPG
The center foot needs prepped and bondoed.

The Speed controller showed up this weekend (Great shipping!). So I hit Advanced Auto, where I found a nice Fuse block, some 15A and 30A fuses, and some 10Ga wire (for the battery to Speed controller link).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Eleco_Sys_01_big.JPG

I want to place the Mother Board Tray and Hard disk before I mount the Speed controller and fuse block (so everything is neat and tidy). So I whipped up a Mobo Tray out of some 1/8" Aluminum. Still need to drill the holes for the standoffs but I'm having trouble finding a M3 tap locally....Might have to go to plan B (Radio Shack...If they carry standoffs any more?). I'm going to have to Remake the HDD mount ....It wasn't Square I slipped while sanding the edge smooth and took about 1/16" to much off of one end.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Mobo_tray_big.JPG

I also started and completed a "Mini-mod" I upgraded the battery pack in my Radio. See it came with an old NiCad pack (700MAH) and they don't sell any that are better. So I bought 8 AA NIMH (2200MAH) Batteries and modded the battery pack I had, by cutting the old batts out and using some Brass shim stock from the local hobby shop to join the NIMH batts together in the correct orientation. Now The Transmitter should run all day on one charge :)

OLD
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/OLD_NICAD_big.JPG

NEW
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/NiMH_pack_big.JPG


Sunday after noon was spent Redrawing the lines that needed etched on the dome (some late night drawing before left some very crooked lines). With that done the Etching can begin.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Dome_etching_big.JPG

So I've got allot of work ahead of me, but for the first time in a while it feels like the MML Dead line is doable. He will not be all done and some of the smaller details will be missing but, you'll know it's R2 and most people will not notice the missing pieces.

Expect More From the R2 Camp...As every night here at Hillbilly Labs is a Work night till MML!

Crazybillybob, heading back to the LAB!

[tybrenis]

Nice update! I've been watching this project since the start, and it's really great to be able to see it all starting to come together. Great job!

[Rankenphile]

It's really starting to come together, CBB. Very nice - the foot is looking great. I'm excited to see the progress these next couple of weeks leading up to MML. This is always a great time to watch the boards, as everyone gets last-minute motivated and starts churning out great stuff.

[crazybillybob]

I'm excited to see the progress these next couple of weeks leading up to MML. This is always a great time to watch the boards, as everyone gets last-minute motivated and starts churning out great stuff.


I'm not sure it's motivation or Lack of Sleep early. My wife starts to get concerned when I schedule the days that I'll be getting les then 4hrs of sleep :eek: :)

Hopefully I'll not run into any major issues (if that's the case things will be moving Shortly :) )

Crazybillybob

[crenn]

Will you have the speed controller linked to the computer or an external radio controller?

[crazybillybob]

The speed controller will be linked to an external radio to start with but at some point I'd like to hook it to the pc, and let the software control it. but the will be well down the road.


Crazybillybob

[crazybillybob]

Just a little update (no pics....Tomorrow Promise) Just so you all know I'm still alive....been hard at work lately!
I've been Wiring....and wiring to get R2 Running around under his own power. He's very close Just need to punch a few holes into the feet (for the wires to run through) , attach the connectors, and finish up a brace for the speed controller (after a little talk with the guys from Robot power, I decided that to help improve airflow over the SC that it needs to mounted vertically, hence a new bracket!). Oh and there has been painting.....of detail parts..


Back to Work,
CrazyBillyBob

[Drac998]

As long as you don't get the urge to dress up in a C3P0 outfit, it's all good.

[Rankenphile]

I've been wondering what the status was. I knew you were hard at work in prep for MML, but hadn't heard much out of Redneck Studios as of late. Glad to hear things are coming along well. I can't wait to see what you've accomplished.

[crazybillybob]

As long as you don't get the urge to dress up in a C3P0 outfit, it's all good.
Wow I was really thinking about making a C3p0 suit tooo:eek: :D


I've been wondering what the status was. I knew you were hard at work in prep for MML, but hadn't heard much out of Redneck Studios as of late. Glad to hear things are coming along well. I can't wait to see what you've accomplished.

Well I was down for about a week and half with a really nasty Throat infection...No Work just sleep and antibiotics..(didn't even feel like playing BF or checking my e-mail)...Not fun, and no Progress. But I'm trying to make up for lost time now!!:) Cause I've only got a bit over a week to get things running!

CrazyBillyBob

[Rankenphile]

Well, that's what you get for blowing 151-proof fireballs. :p

kidding, of course. Sorry to hear you were sick, man, that's never any fun. Hope it all goes together for you, you know I'm pulling for ya.

[crazybillybob]

Well, that's what you get for blowing 151-proof fireballs. :p



Those Fireballs will have nothing on how that cold made me feel.

And it's good to know I've got support ;) .......Now if I could only get some free SWAG..8)



CrazyBillyBob

[crazybillybob]

Here's the Pics I promised! and a little update.

The Wiring for the Drive motors is all installed.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Drive_wireing_big.JPG

I didn't get the Speed controller mounted because I ran out of Screws....Picked some up today at lunch so It will be installed tonight!
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/SC_Bracket_big.JPG

That means that Hopefully I'll have some action pics to post tomorrow :)

I've also been working on getting the legs back to looking perdy, I've started by gluing the inside skin back on the legs. http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/LegSkin_reglue_big.JPG
The Edges should be glued back on soon, just waiting for the inside to dry good.

The nice Pretty Battery boxes that I got from Craig needed moded a bit, because my motors stick out of the inside of the feet. So I had to put a 2 1/2" hole in the side so that the box seats flat on the foot.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Battbox_moto_hole_big.JPG
The hole is a 2 1/2" top Radius, the bottom is flattish, just the shape the motor needed to fit.
Here it is with the Batt Box in place on the foot. (It's held there with tape for now, need to run a couple of screws in to hold it.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/BattBox_Mock_big.JPG


I also was busy Sanding and puttying, priming and painting.
Here's a big lot of Details All primered up, Drying before they are wet sanded (the second time for the eye pieces).
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Details_Primered_big.JPG

And Here are the Power Coupler insides after their repaint job.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/PowerCup_Repaint_big.JPG

There's still allot left to do, but things are getting there. I hope to finish the etching on the dome tomorrow night. That way I can have the paint done on it Saturday....That will give me a few good days of Dry on the clear.


Crazybillybob.......Back to work!

[crazybillybob]

Well after allot of work and a bit of sweating (you know the last Speed controller I hooked up Exploded into flames inches from my face!)
The Scorpion XL is installed and All wired up.
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/cbb/R2/Scorpion_mounted_big.JPG
As The directions For the Scorpion State I tested it with out the motors attached (pulled the fuses), Then did a quick calibration (jumper setting on the SC board). About this time my Transmitter Batteries died (what They've been sitting on the shelf for a month....never thought about them discharging), So It was late last night I but the Transmitter on the charger and went to bed. Planning on testing R2 after work today..... Well When I got up for work I walked by R2 and just couldn't leave him sitting there so close with out knowing. I hooked up the Batteries and fired up the transmitter...... He's FAST!!! :shock: , after playing gently with him for 10 mins I had to see what he could doo, Well I goosed the throttle, from 0 to full...... R2 Just about flipped over backwards.....He Rode the wheelie about 3 foot (that's how fast he is, I let go of the throttle as soon as I saw the front wheel clear the ground!) My wife saw me playing with him, and couldn't resist, she drove him around in a little circle for abit too (I knew she'd come around!!!) Well I did end up being about 10 mins late for work.... Played to long and got stuffed in traffic. So I don't have any video for you.... But I'll try and get the web cam out this weekend (It's not great quality but, you see him move!) and post a video .....OOOOW Outside, where I can open him up and not worry about my walls :)

Well, Back to work!
CrazyBillyBob <- A very Happy RedNeck!

[Rankenphile]

I seriously can't wait. This is a pretty big day for ya!

[crazybillybob]

Yeap, Wen to Work on Cloud 9;) .....Now I just have to consintrate on work instead of the R2 list in my head......That's proving to be harder then I thought!

CrazyBillyBob

[Rankenphile]

I'm not surprised at all.

Congratulations, man. I'm proud of ya. It's been a blast to watch this thing come together. I can't wait to see it in action.

So how much other stuff you have to do on this? Did you ever get the projector working?

[crazybillybob]

The Projector Works, I just have to test the new lamp I designed. It's 22 UB 3mm White LEDs surrounding a 1W LED.....(Yeap it's bright) I bread boarded it to check brightness. Then I etched a nice board (2 concentric circles around the 1W) It runs on 3Vdc so I've gotta wire up a LM317 to deliver 3Vdc (will do up to 1A so we're good on power). Once that's done I'll install it into the projector and button that up.

The Must be done by Wednesday (6/14/06) List is.
Wet Sand and paint the Holoeyes (Chrome)
Finish etching the dome, cut out the holes for all the details on the dome.
Mask off Prep and paint the Hypo Blue area's of the dome.
Mount the Mini ITX Mobo (on Tray then mount tray in R2)
Mount HDD
Load XP Pro, Updates, Virus software, BF2, BF2 (Battle front, battle field), Load custom R2 Sound software that includes Web cam control.
Mount all the details on the dome.
Mount Projector in dome.
Mount Web cam in Dome
Mount dome on Plastic ring.
Mount Lazy Susan to dome and Frame.
Find a 12V Battery charger, and 12V battery (for PC when not plugged in)
Paint and mount Utility Arms
Mount as many body details as I have painted or fabbed.
Place plastic filler Panes in place (some places on R2 need filled in)
Paint Feet, legs and body
Mount Rear Door and latch.
Build Crate to transport R2. Have Drawings and wood, just not done yet!
The inevitable crap I don't know needs to be done before one of the above can be finished. Plus pack up all my Crap For MML (My Rig, Gear and clothes, As I have a 5hr drive to Ohio to meet the Waffle Train, then a 7hr drive to MML, I've gotta pull out of Lansing by noon or 1 on Wednesday)

At this point Saturday Afternoon I'll be breathing paint fumes! (allot of Paint fumes), First thing in the morning I have to hit Harbor freight and Sams (for some tools and battery Equipment!)

To Quote BNL....
"Who needs Sleep, you know your never going to get it!" :redface:


CrazyBillyBob

[Rankenphile]

Just out of curiosity, do you have any sort of shock or impact protection for the computer hardware in there, like the HDDs? If R2 has as much zip as you say, it's not unrealistic to picture him tipping over onto his shiny metal butt, which I'm sure a spinning HDD wouldn't care for much. Although, depending on the battery weight and where it is mounted, you may end up moving the center of gravity so low on him that this may not be an issue.

Not to put anything on your task list, of course, it already sounds like a pretty nutty schedule. You know what they say, though - work is the curse of the drinking class.

[crazybillybob]

I do have some Shock absurbing material for the HDD. Though I'm pretty sure that it will only minorly help if R2 flipps. I'm hopeing that when I get the 4 12V 4.5AH Drive motor Batts mounted, and the 12V batt for the PC in place that the CG drops and the flipping becomes a none issue. I'm also thinking about limiting the output from the Transmitter (I've got a comp Radio, so I can set the out put of both channel 1 and 2 to max @ 75%, which will still be fast, but will limit the wheelies with N008 Drivers). The Shock mounts are two layers of this 1/8" Rubber Gasket Matrial that we use on test engines @ work (high temp, air tight), I think it will cut down on basic Road Vib, but not sure that theres a good way to save it from a flip (unless I mount in a Spring harness like they did with Nitro...back in the old days). But I had thought of that and it falls under the "Mounting the HDD" heading so your not adding work. :D That's the other reason the DVD Writer is not in there perminently yet, I don't want to break it the first time out.

CrazyBillyBob

[crenn]

Just a Question, with the recharge circuit, what are you doing for that? Because I might have a solution if you still need one.