Watercooling Problems...

[isunktheship]

I finally put my watercooling system into my computer, and I do have a few errors with the way it's hooked together, but I still don't think that can explain the temperatures I'm looking at...

Here are my stats:
CPU: Intel 6300 1.86Ghz
GPU: XFX 7900GT (this board got discontinued... wonder why:down:)
MEMORY: OCZ DDR2 800mhz (has heatsinks)
PSU: Rosewill 600WATTS (should be enough)
MOBO: Asus p5n32 deluxe (solid as a rock)

After booting up speedfan I got these temperatures:
HD0: 31C (HARD DRIVE)
HD1: 31C (HARD DRIVE)
CORE0: 51C (CPU CORE)
CORE1: 51C (CPU CORE)
TEMP2: 37C (MOBO)
TEMP1: 37C (MOBO)
CORE: 55C (GPU)

I'm completely blown away by this... it's really hot! My GPU is that temperature all the time, XFX had problems with the card and other versions were released, but ultimately all of that specific model were discontinued (lucky me, I know why). I bought a few more 120mm fans just to see if I can blow the warm air out faster, butt nothing is really working. Here is a picture/diagram of the case:

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/2566/troublezonesrj6.th.jpg (http://img117.imageshack.us/my.php?image=troublezonesrj6.jpg)

There are two problems, that I am aware of;
1.) The radiator is upside-down, not sure how big of a deal this is though... does it affect heating?
2.) Only warm air is being brought through it (especially since it is right above a 55C GPU, and almost leaning on my mobo heatsinks.

So here are my questions;
1.) If I move the radiator to another spot in my case, lets say the front, where it would be pulling in fresh cool air, would that have a noticeable CPU temp impact? (I would still have a 120mm in that same spot pulling warm air out.
2.) Where else would be an acceptable place to put it? I have a place to put it on the top of my case, and one on the floor.
3.) How can I solve the GPU heat issue?? NOTHING in my PC is overclocked.
4.) What temps should I be seeing when idle?

Any other ways I can get lower temperatures? I have a 120 on the rear, a 120 on the front, and 3 120's lying around to put in, as I said before though I put them on the side of my case and nothing really happened. If you would like more pics let me know!

[Mitternacht]

stupid question, but is there a fan on your radiator? Cause it don't look like it.

[Spawn-Inc]

your rad is fine upside down and i would add a second (i assume you have one on the otherside) fan to the rad as said above. i also take it your video card is not watercooled and hence its hot with stock cooling. my 8600GT was about 53C at idle with all stock cooling so i changed out the thermal paste and added a second fan over the stock one and it now sits at about 48C. as for the cpu that seems high with watercooling what fans do you have on it(rad)?

[isunktheship]

stupid question, but is there a fan on your radiator? Cause it don't look like it.

Don't worry, not a stupid question, the 120mm fan is hidden behind the rad!


my 8600GT was about 53C at idle with all stock cooling so i changed out the thermal paste and added a second fan over the stock one and it now sits at about 48C. as for the cpu that seems high with watercooling what fans do you have on it(rad)?

I just have the one 120mm fan there, and since it's sucking warm air through the grill it does make sense that it would be warmer than normal. I need to get some more thermal paste, but when I had a 120mm fan blowing right on it the temp didn't change much.

A lot of people put their radiators here, but it's not really a great place, the back of the computer is where the inner heat has to go.

[Spawn-Inc]

you should move the rad to the outside of the back and that way the fan will push air through the rad and not pull. what is the CFM rating for the fan? should have at least 70 or more.

[isunktheship]

Yeah I would have done that, but the fan bumps out, so I'd first have to buy the adapter, and then put two holes in the case for the water cooling tubes to go out to the radiator.

Some versions of my case do have the holes, my roommates for instance does, and it's the same case, I wasn't fortunate :(.

New plan, the radiator will go at the front of my case, I have about 5 free slots where I'm going to mount the radiator and fan. The fan will be pushing air through the radiator into the case, which means that the radiator gets the coolest air possible. I'm going to mount it using industry strength velcro, which is what DD recommends.

I don't reaaally like the idea of things not being screwed together, are there any vertical 120mm fan holders for 5 1/2" drives? This way I can have the fan all screwed in tight, and attach the rad to something sturdy.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Don't worry, the pass through holes are easy to cut for tubing, just make sure you use grommets on th holes to stop them cutting your tubing.

Those temps do seem high especially if it is just a CPU. On stock air cooling and Arctic Silver 5 my C2D E6600 sits around 50*c, it's sitting at 55*c right this minute.
Also check to see if your pump is working, may be getting bad temps cos there is no coolant flow.

[rendermandan]

I would suggest the best place is on the outside of your case. Similar to how I built the turbine, I figured the best place is to draw cool air into the radiator and expell it outside of the case. Not into it, wich would raise your gpu temps. That is why I built the Turbine for the top of my case and the radiator in my motorized madness case draws cool air from the front and exhasuts it out the side. -it doesn't add any heat to the case whatsoever.
Just my 1 cent. :)

[isunktheship]

Those temps do seem high especially if it is just a CPU. On stock air cooling and Arctic Silver 5 my C2D E6600 sits around 50*c, it's sitting at 55*c right this minute.

Wow yeah, CPU's do get pretty toasty. What temps do you think I would see for normal watercooling?


I would suggest the best place is on the outside of your case.... draws cool air from the front and exhausts it out the side.

Yeah that's a good idea, I'm thinking I will mount the fan towards the front of my case, and get a fan duct to exhaust it somewhere. The only area on the case that this would be easy is the top.. I could mount the rad there and attach a fan to both the case door (pulling air) and before the rad (pushing air), and just connect the two using this: fan duct (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1739/duc-16/FrozenCPU_Black_Thermalhood_Overclocking_Kit.html? tl=g36c121s442#blank)
Only cold air would touch the rad, and warm exhaust wouldn't interfere with the case. I may get a 2x 120mm one or just another single.

I'm looking into more cooling, like HD's or memory, something that will carry from one system to another. *sigh* I wish gpu waterblocks were cheaper.. or that they would at least carry over to other gpus.


ALSO thanks to everyone for the help so far ++ rep!
EDIT, crap I ran out of giving rep, I'll get that done when I have more!

[Spawn-Inc]

Wow yeah, CPU's do get pretty toasty. What temps do you think I would see for normal watercooling?
it all depends on the cpu, mine is air cooled, overclocked and runs 30C idle. i've never looked at your specific cpu so i'm not sure what you should see. i would guess at idle it should be close to mine. (ambient is about 20C).


Yeah that's a good idea, I'm thinking I will mount the fan towards the front of my case, and get a fan duct to exhaust it somewhere. The only area on the case that this would be easy is the top.. I could mount the rad there and attach a fan to both the case door (pulling air) and before the rad (pushing air), and just connect the two using this: fan duct (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1739/duc-16/FrozenCPU_Black_Thermalhood_Overclocking_Kit.html? tl=g36c121s442#blank)
Only cold air would touch the rad, and warm exhaust wouldn't interfere with the case. I may get a 2x 120mm one or just another single.
seems like a good idea, i would get 2x 120mm rad if you want to also water cool the gpu.

I'm looking into more cooling, like HD's or memory, something that will carry from one system to another. *sigh* I wish gpu waterblocks were cheaper.. or that they would at least carry over to other gpus.
you must be looking at gpu full coverage blocks, they do sell transferable blocks that cool only the core, you need ramsinks for the ram and other stuff though. here is a swiftech MCW60 (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcw60-R.asp) that should work on yours. it will fit your block, here is the compatibility list (http://www.swiftnets.com/products/NVIDIA%20COMPATIBILITY.asp)


ALSO thanks to everyone for the help so far ++ rep!
EDIT, crap I ran out of giving rep, I'll get that done when I have more!
you don't run out of giving rep you just need to "spread the rep around" it just prevents people from repping the same person over and over. just go to the worklogs and give some rep there:).

.

[noopypoop]

well when ypu watercool it OC's it. has the speed gone up? in that case thats why its so hot

[Scotty]

Rearranging the loop order can help, but in a loop that's only the CPU i doubt you would see a difference, usually it goes Rad to CPU, to make sure th water is as cool as possible.


Looking at your temps they are through Speedfan, that reports my temps incorrectly, try another program such as Core Temp.

The Motherboard is reading 37*C, so i'd guess that the heat of the air inside is no more than 40*C, so i would say that rad should cool the water to about 40-45 at best, then you're putting it onto the CPU which will be pretty warm.

So switch it so the rads get cool air, albeit mine don't... If they did, my ambient temps would climb.

[isunktheship]

well when ypu watercool it OC's it. has the speed gone up? in that case thats why its so hot

Hrmm. I didn't OC it yet, but I may have had it OC'ed in the past, it's running at 1.89ghz vs 1.86ghz, which is hardly an OC.


Rearranging the loop order can help, but in a loop that's only the CPU i doubt you would see a difference, usually it goes Rad to CPU, to make sure th water is as cool as possible...try another program such as Core Temp...switch it so the rads get cool air, albeit mine don't... If they did, my ambient temps would climb.

I just downloaded core temp, here are the values:
Tjunction: 85C (what is this?!?!)
Core 0: 55C
Core 1: 55C

I really need to move that rad. At the same time the video card has been artifacting like crazy, and it's pissing me off. It was a fun year with the card, but it's tooo hot!

[Spawn-Inc]

well when ypu watercool it OC's it. has the speed gone up? in that case thats why its so hot

adding watercooling doesn't automatically oc your computer.


like scotty said make sure the the rad is right before the cpu.

[dexaroni]

I have experienced this same issue.

First, with the radiator on top, you are getting a giant air bubble. Air rises, and without an uber pump, the air will not be pushed out of the radiator because there is not enough flow to get it off the top and to go back down.

Second, make sure your blocks are mounted properly, it's an easy mistake to make. Check if there is an imprint in the TIM, if not, you have a badly mounted block.

Your T Junction is the maximum rated temp for that chip. Although 55 is warm, it is safe for the time being.

As for the card, call XFX. They know about the issue and were willing to replace mine even though it was out of warranty had I not modded it.

And Spawn and Scotty are not quite right, at least in my experience. Most CPU blocks work based on turbulance, the faster the water hits it, the better it performs. Put the radiator in front of the pump, and the pump into the CPU.

[isunktheship]

First, with the radiator on top, you are getting a giant air bubble. Air rises, and without an uber pump, the air will not be pushed out of the radiator because there is not enough flow to get it off the top and to go back down.
Yeah I definitely noticed this when I first turned the pump on, a huge air bubble went through the system, and when it got to the rad it would break up, after a while my 'T' got rid of the bubbles but it took like 30 min.

With the radiator, does a bubble in the radiator affect the temperature dramatically?


Second, make sure your blocks are mounted properly, it's an easy mistake to make. Check if there is an imprint in the TIM, if not, you have a badly mounted block.
Good idea, I'll probably get some thermal grease ASAP, since I can't find other stuff, and then check that out when I reapply it. What's the "TIM"?


Your T Junction is the maximum rated temp for that chip. Although 55 is warm, it is safe for the time being.
Great! Thank you for helping me with the terminology.


As for the card, call XFX. They know about the issue and were willing to replace mine even though it was out of warranty had I not modded it.
I know I have a lifetime warranty, so I will probably send it back when I upgrade. I'm gonna get PCI 2.0, and new mobo for that of course... just budgeting for now.

Thanks for all the help in that last message!!

[Scotty]

TIM = Thermal Insulating Material ;) MX-2 or AS5 are the better. I personally have MX-2 on my CPU and GPU

The T Junction needs to be set at 100*C to read temps accurately.

[J-Roc]

I have a simmilar setup to yours, i have the E6320 with double the cache. My cpu @ 2.2Ghz runs at 32c-35c depending on load. I do however have a tripple 120mm rad mounted on the front of my case and a myriad of fans.

If you think your GPU gets hot, 50's aint shiet. My XFX 8600GTS Ext OC runs in the mid 80's under load. My card also seems to be discontined like yours. I'm RMAing XFX on monday to see if they can fix it or give me a diffrent card.

Also, unless i've been hitting the bong too much lately, isnt the PCI-E 2.0 standard for peripheral devices and not for graphic adapters?

[Spawn-Inc]

I have a simmilar setup to yours, i have the E6320 with double the cache. My cpu @ 2.2Ghz runs at 32c-35c depending on load. I do however have a tripple 120mm rad mounted on the front of my case and a myriad of fans.

If you think your GPU gets hot, 50's aint shiet. My XFX 8600GTS Ext OC runs in the mid 80's under load. My card also seems to be discontined like yours. I'm RMAing XFX on monday to see if they can fix it or give me a diffrent card.

Also, unless i've been hitting the bong too much lately, isnt the PCI-E 2.0 standard for peripheral devices and not for graphic adapters?

pcie 2.0 is for newer video cards, not peripheral, there isn't a peripheral that i know of that use a pcie slot.

[The boy 4rm oz]

My 8800GTX runs around 60*c at idle and about 66*c while playing BF2 maxed out. If your 8600GTS runs that hot J-Roc something must be wrong.

[isunktheship]

Yeah my card spiked out to 78 Celsius boosting the cpu to something near 60, and then it crashed. I just need to redo the watercooling.

What case do you have where you can fit in the triple radiator? Also how loud is your computer, I'm trying to keep volume minimal.

I'll probably put some thermal grease on this weekend...

[Scotty]

My GTX under full load goes no higher than 60*C. Currently sitting at 48*C idle, gotta love watercooling.

[isunktheship]

How much was the block for that?

[Spawn-Inc]

my 8600GT got i think up to 75C, i really wanna go to watercooling and overclock some more. i would like to get my celeron higher but it just doesn't want to.

[The boy 4rm oz]

The block I am going to use (just have to install) for my 8800GTx is a Swiftech MCW-60, it cools only the GPU chip and means you need ramsinks to cool everything else. In total the block cost me $99AUD plus another $50AUD for the Ram and Mosphet sinks with a G80 adapter plate for my 8800GTX. This block beats the Danger Den full coverage block on an 8800GTS by a degree or two, and it's more than $100AUD cheaper lol.

Also just keep in mind that the temps Scotty gets won't apply to everyone. He uses a 240mm radiator and a 120mm radiator which gives very good cooling. I will only be using a 120mm and an 80mm to cool my E6600 (soon to be Q6600) and an 8800GTX, will be good to see the temp difference.

[Spawn-Inc]

The block I am going to use (just have to install) for my 8800GTx is a Swiftech MCW-60, it cools only the GPU chip and means you need ramsinks to cool everything else. In total the block cost me $99AUD plus another $50AUD for the Ram and Mosphet sinks with a G80 adapter plate for my 8800GTX. This block beats the Danger Den full coverage block on an 8800GTS by a degree or two, and it's more than $100AUD cheaper lol.

Also just keep in mind that the temps Scotty gets won't apply to everyone. He uses a 240mm radiator and a 120mm radiator which gives very good cooling. I will only be using a 120mm and an 80mm to cool my E6600 (soon to be Q6600) and an 8800GTX, will be good to see the temp difference.

i would up your 80mm rad to a 240mm rad or at the very least another 120mm rad if you going with a q6600.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I would but I don't have the room. It's a Black Ice micro situated on the top exhaust fan on my NZXT LEXA, my other rad is a Black Ice Xtreme with a 100cfm fan blowing air through it. The only way I could mount another rad is by attaching it to the plexi side window or by mounting a 240 or 360mm radiator on the top of the case. If I do it that way I would need a new pump and would have to look at a radiator on the top of my case which I find ugly.

[Scotty]

How much was the block for that?

If that was about my GTX bloxk, its a EK Full cover one, GPU, VRAM, VREGS and the other chip.

@Boy. You might want to see if you can get a bigger Rad, My GTX and Q6600 are cooled by a 120mm dual pass (effectively a 240) and a 240mm, on max airflow, my fans pull around 70-80CFM and it can get toasty. Although for a Q6600 @ 3.3GHz with 1.525 volts going through it i suppose 55*Cish isn't bad under load

[The boy 4rm oz]

As I said in my other post it is near impossible for me to tastefully mount another radiator. I may see if I can get another 80mm one for the other 80mm fan hole in my case.

[dexaroni]

If you don't have any thermal grease on there, that is your problem. Without that, you aren't making good contact. If that is the situation, remedy that immediately.

[isunktheship]

Okay this is weird...

I put the stock fan back on, and it says it's at a whopping 80C! This is with two extra 120's attached to the case. My GPU on the other hand is down to 45C..

So the temp went from 55C to 80C, it cooled it down 25 degrees... which is basically what watercooling is supposed to do. I'm going to get a water temp sensor so I can finally get an accurate reading. I have a feeling that my computer temp sensors are off... could be wrong though.

I know I'm probably not supposed to post this on here, but... I'm upgrading the my dual core kit for quad core.
So I'm looking to get rid of the 120mm stealth radiator, dual core block, and mobo block:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=293&cat=0&page=
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=21&cat=21&page=1
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=220&cat=86&page=1

I guess if you are interested E-mail me at isunktheship@gmail.com since we can't sell here, I'll set it up through paypal or ebay and then paypal however..

Back to the thread. I'm doing a lot of upgrading, so I'm probably going to get the quad core waterblock, as well as a dual 120mm radiator. OH and THANK YOU ASUS for creating watercooled motherbaords!!! (MSI came out with some as well)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131235
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131221

[isunktheship]

As mentioned before temps are hot, they're around 76C with the stock fan... APPARENTLY it is a little overclocked, from 1.86 to 1.89.. could this really cause such high temperatures?

I'm upgrading the system anyhow, using these parts in other computers. Here are the stats on the new system:

Intel Quad Core 6600 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115017)
ASUS Maximus Formula (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131221) (Watercooled!)
2 x MSI 8800GT (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127311) (Bought these from dell, $207 a pop, I hope everyone else got that sale)
2 x Western Digital 500gb HD's (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136073)
2 x 1Gb OCZ Platinum 1066Mhz (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227178)
Rosewill 750 watt PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182067)

Total: $1400 NOT FRICKEN BAD FOR SLI 8800's + 1 TB Space

This will be the highest end computer I have ever had (not saying most powerful, computers are outdated every day, but it's the highest end I've ever been)

Also I would have gone maximus extreme, but then id have to do ddr3, which means the memory costs AT LEAST 2x as much ~$350 for 2gb, and the mobo is like $50 more... so ew there's $400 more.

[Spawn-Inc]

don't get a rosewill psu, get crosair (620) its much better. what water cooling stuff are you getting for this setup?

i've heard the block on the ASUS Maximus Formula isn't the greatest, but not researched so i will say nothing else on it.

[isunktheship]

I already bought it :(!

Would 620 watts power the dual 8800gt's, 2 HD's, plus the watercooling, anyway?

I know that the GT's are the most power efficient at ~277watts each
277 * 2 is 554 watts. I currently have a 600watt rosewill, which I know isn't a name brand company (yet), but this last PSU served me well for 2 years!

For the motherboard I'm probably just going to splice off from the main line and go in and out of the mobo. I'm not sure what the barb size is though :( so I'll keep you updated.

[Spawn-Inc]

ohwell if you've had good experiences then i'm sure it will be fine, i just try to stick with big name brands.

i've been told, and believe it, that there a 750 no name will loose to a 620-650 good brand psu.

what water cooling parts are you looking at though?



For the motherboard I'm probably just going to splice off from the main line and go in and out of the mobo. I'm not sure what the barb size is though :( so I'll keep you updated.



ya thats a good idea, then it should still get water and not hurt flow to much.

[J-Roc]

My 8800GTX runs around 60*c at idle and about 66*c while playing BF2 maxed out. If your 8600GTS runs that hot J-Roc something must be wrong.

Well the most obvious thing to note is that your 8800 has a dual slot heat pipe cooler where as the 8600's get a chinski aluminum block with a sub par fan. I also max out the settings on my card in the control panel. I'm trying to get a waterblock for it but i have to play it by ear for now.

Since my card comes factory overclocked, do you think it'll go any higher?

Whoever asked me about my case, i got me one of deez!
http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/kandalflcs/img/intro.jpg

[Spawn-Inc]

i've gotten my 8600GT superclocked to 870/945... but that was volt modded, with a simple pencil.

stock settings i can get 705/880, thats a bit higher than i was getting after i pencil modded it but the voltages are back to stock settings so i'm not sure why i can get higher clocks than before i volt modded.

if you can't wait for the water blocks then grab the Accelero S2 (http://www.arctic-cooling.com/vga2.php?idx=125) even though its not listed it will work.

the 8600GT and 8600GTS are basically the same card accept the 8600GTS has better clocks and pci-e.

have you changed the rad in that case?

[J-Roc]

have you changed the rad in that case?

No i havent, allthough there probly is a better alternative. The dual pass rad seems to be working quite well. Its only cooling my cpu (for now) and i think it should perform well with the addition of a GPU block to the loop.

[Spawn-Inc]

ya its just round tubed rads aren't the best for watercooling. but since its a triple 120mm then it should be fine.

[isunktheship]

Okay I got the majority of the upgrades..

New Stats:
Intel Q6600 2.4Ghz
ASUS Maximus Formula
2Gb OCZ DDR2 1066Mhz
XFX 7900Gt
2 x Western Digital 250Gb 8Mb Cache (I think it's 8)
1 x Western Digital 500Gb 16Mb Cache
Currrently using the cool soundcard bundled with it, and it's NOT TOO SHABBY! I'm going to go back to the Creative card, but it was definitely worth testing!

(I'm also sad that DELL is out of the video cards I bought, I ordered them in time for the sale, but they don't get shipped until Dec 13th :(.. Dual MSI 8800Gt's)

All Hooked up:
Nice Angle Shot:
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/974/interior1qz8.th.jpg (http://img518.imageshack.us/my.php?image=interior1qz8.jpg)

Fusion Waterblock:
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/6016/dsc00601fe1.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00601fe1.jpg)

Case Without Flash:
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/6341/dsc00600fn6.th.jpg (http://img515.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00600fn6.jpg)

On-Board Buttons, oh so nice!:
http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/2024/dsc00598tg1.th.jpg (http://img45.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00598tg1.jpg)

Case Without Lights:
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2194/dsc00593ew5.th.jpg (http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00593ew5.jpg)

Case With Flash:
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4059/dsc00603nj2.th.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00603nj2.jpg)

(Also these images were not edited in any way)

I will be putting in watercooling soon, but here are the temps:
CPU: 28, 34, 34, 35 Celsius (haha 4 cores 4 temps)
GPU: 45-50 Celsius Blah, I've even got two 120mm fans blowing right onto it. I'm going to put on new thermal paste and clean the fans up later.

[Spawn-Inc]

wicked stuffs!

accept i hate that case so much, looks like the halo helmet. anyway where did you get the temps from? anyway you can get the temps for the chipset?

[isunktheship]

Hey I used Core Temp! I usually use speedfan, which I had to fall back on since core temp would shut down my computer randomly. Also you can check temps in the BIOS is you want it to be super accurate. Core temp, was accurate, and had all 4 temps, speedfan was not.

Yeah the case got sooo popular, I personally like the way it looks, but more importantly I love the flexibility!! You can do anything with it, even flip the whole computer to face the other way. Everything comes apart in a snap, and peices are interchangeable, for instance on the front of my case I don't have cd slots I have 2 120mm fan holders (they can also hold 80 and 92mm)

What do you mean by temps for the chipset.. like t-junction?

[Spawn-Inc]

not the x38 chipset (under the on board waterblock) i'm not sure if bios will tell you that temp but mine can. i believe i said before here that i heard the chipset when not water cooled got hot. so i was just wonder what kinda temps it has.

[isunktheship]

Oh yeah, I heard the same thing, but it's actually decent, it's about 39C. Maybe more under load.. I need something to monitor that more accurately, the only thin I really believe atm is the BIOS temps, which of course aren;t under load.

[Spawn-Inc]

ya mine is 40C, but i have the voltage is bumped from stock as well as oc'ed ram and cpu.

any date on when the w/c is coming?

[isunktheship]

By the end of the year I will be cooling the CPU and Mobo for sure, but I might put in the cpu cooling within the week! After I get the 8800's I'll see how expensive waterblocks are for that, I think I'll be so blown away that I'll pass though!

I'm also going to get me one of these for the memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835202003&Tpk=ocz

[Spawn-Inc]

ya i was looking at getting cooling for my naked ram but the 250mm fan seems to cool them down, there not really hot anyway so i'm not worried.

it you need a mean time cpu cooler but don't want spend the case of a TRUE 120 then get the arctic cooling freezer 7 pro, mines working wonders!

i'm 85% sure the MCW60's with the G80 adaptor plate will work on 8800GT's, 43 a block plus the MC8800 kit at 33 each.

[isunktheship]

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mc8800.asp

Daaamn yeah, I might hit them up!

"When coupled with the MCW60 water-block, the kit provides a totally silent, high performance, and relatively low cost approach to liquid cooling of the geForce™ 8800 series cards."

Well, I know that the GT's run hotter than the GS's, not sure if it's hotter than a GTX, and probably not hotter than an ULTRA... you happen to know?

[Scotty]

You said you want 2x 8800GTs? You do know that that board doesn't support SLi right? It supports crossfire for ATi cards, but not SLi for Nvidia. Just thought you might want to know.

The GTs with stock cooling get pretty close to GTX temps (can't say about ULTRA) but with some decent cooling they are defiantly cooler as they're 65nm and not 90nm.

EK just released a 8800GT waterblock link (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_31_42&products_id=217&osCsid=b5f4d1f73d5d0d72ea92a13c7aa4a325) i have a EK block on my GTX, lovely blocks and do a fine job of cooling with minimal pressure and flow loss.

You can read the NB temp through the ASUS PC Probe when in Windows should have come with your motherboard drivers, mine gets pretty warm even with watercooling, it's not the best NB block but it certainly does the job.

[isunktheship]

You said you want 2x 8800GTs? You do know that that board doesn't support SLi right? It supports crossfire for ATi cards, but not SLi for Nvidia. Just thought you might want to know.

Haha I was just looking into this when I saw your post. Balls, I guess my brothers getting an 8800gt for xmas! For the pricetag of $207, $225 shipped, it's not a huge letdown. Plus this will be easier, and cheaper to cool then, I will just need 1 block, and the loop heat won't be huge.


EK just released a 8800GT waterblock link (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_31_42&products_id=217&osCsid=b5f4d1f73d5d0d72ea92a13c7aa4a325) i have a EK block on my GTX, lovely blocks and do a fine job of cooling with minimal pressure and flow loss.

Thanks for the link, It's a little pricey, but I'll see!


You can read the NB temp through the ASUS PC Probe when in Windows should have come with your motherboard drivers, mine gets pretty warm even with watercooling, it's not the best NB block but it certainly does the job.

Yeah I didn't install that yet :(, I'll get around to that asap.

[Spawn-Inc]

Well, I know that the GT's run hotter than the GS's, not sure if it's hotter than a GTX, and probably not hotter than an ULTRA... you happen to know?

i'm not sure what temps they get (GT's) but i do know they are changing the fan/heatsink design around as the first one isn't the best.

while this (http://www.tweaktown.com/news/8642/index.html) isn't the 8800GT 512mb version it's the 1gb, it does have a different heatsink, zalman looking even.


****, i forgot that those dam x38/p35 chipsets don't support sli, it never even crossed my mind.

but as much as i love the look of ek blocks and full blocks i would go with a gpu block only, upgradeability.

[isunktheship]

Yeah I just read the "FULL 16X 2.0!!" and looked no further. Plus they are so high end + ASUS!:redface:

[isunktheship]

Okay so heres the new list of parts that I will be working with:

I bought the MCW60-R, compatible with both my 7900gt and the future 8800gt:
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mcw60-R.asp
With SMC cooling kit:
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/mc8800.asp
Dual 120mm Radiator:
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCR220-QP.asp
Single 120mm radiator:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=220&cat=86&page=1
Old CPU block:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=21&cat=61&page=1
Pump:
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=175&cat=23&page=1
Mobo, with chipset cooling:
http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=11&l3=572&l4=0&model=1850&modelmenu=1

Also my dad got me these awesome pressure disconnects from his lab, but they're not the right size.. here's the website for your benefit: http://www.colder.com/Products/tabid/693/Default.aspx?ProductId=15

Pics after xmas!

[Spawn-Inc]

make sure to order the stuff from jabtech, cheapest prices i know of.

looks like w nice setup btw, just cooling the vga and chipset?

[isunktheship]

Yeah, well vga, chipset, and then mobo since I bought the Asus board with wc-ing.

[Spawn-Inc]

what heatsink/cooling do you have planned for the cpu?

[.Maleficus.]

what heatsink/cooling do you have planned for the cpu?
He's using a TDX. I think when he said chipset it meant CPU, since his board already has chipset blocks.

I take it you're getting the MCW60 also? The MC8800 is only a set of heatsinks, not an actual waterblock.

[isunktheship]

I take it you're getting the MCW60 also? The MC8800 is only a set of heatsinks, not an actual waterblock.

Oh yeah, that page has both at the bottom, lemme fix my previous post to have 2 links.

EDIT: previous post fixed

[isunktheship]

Double-post, plus possibly resurrection here, haha.

I got all of my watercooling installed!

Here are some lovely undoctored pictures!

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/8126/dsc00789qo4.th.jpg (http://img46.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00789qo4.jpg)

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/3572/dsc00791lc3.th.jpg (http://img46.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00791lc3.jpg)

Filling it up was interesting, but it's SOO nice!!! First off here is how it works:
Pump -> Dual 120 Rad -> CPU (along the way is one 'T' for the Res)-> Single 120 Rad -> GPU -> 'T' -> Branch 1 -> Mobo (NB/SB) -> 'T' and Branch 2 -> 'T' which goes to the pump again.

CPU Stats:
Idle, no fans, 28C
Idle, low fans, 28C
Idle, high fans, 24-25C (almost room temperature)
Full load with no fans 33-35C
Full load with low fans 28-30C
I haven't tried higher speeds since sub 30C is perfect for me.

GPU Stats:
Idle, no fans, 35-40C
Idle, low fans, 33-35C
Idle, high fans, <29C
Full load, no fans, not sure about this >45C
Full load, low fans, 37C
Full load, high fans, <32C not sure how low.

The only high temperature I'm having is my NB/SB, and even that is sub 40C. It wavers around 37-40C with low fans.

All in all, I love the cooling, and I love the shape of the system, it's pretty elaborate but it WORKS! I really love not having fans on, but am not sure it will last overnight this way. I tried it once while playing TF2 and it restarted, lol... still not sure what overheated first since the graphics/fps were amazing TF2 is 100+, and in some maps 200+. More on this later

[Spawn-Inc]

not to put you down or anything but you should have put the loop in series not parallel. your n/b is getting little flow hence the high temps on in. the next time you need to do/fix/change a block or w/e i would put the res before the pump so when you fill the system it's less strain on the pump and a longer life span for it. res>pump>rad>cpu>n/b>raad>gpu>res or something along those lines should get you some better temps all around.

you could even just keep the current setup and take out the 2 T's on the gpu and after the n/b and just put a 3/8 adaptor on the one side of the gpu then put it to the n/b then get a 3/8" to 1/2" for the outlet of the n/b. (i assume the n/b is 3/8" and the rest is 1/2")


but otherwise good job on it.

[isunktheship]

Yeah I was debating that, but decided to go parallel so that the pressure would be the same throughout, if I made is 1/2" to 3/8" and then 3/8" to 1/2" wouldn't that change speeds? I bought the adjustable t's so that I don't need to buy 1/2" to 3/8" adapters, I can just block one of the t's so that it's the same thing. (I can also make them 1/2" to 1/2" or any other size combination if I needed 1/4" or something.)

Yeah, I learned my mistake with the rad, so that will definitely be a future change. It wasn't bad to fill it up, I didn't let the pump run with nothing going through it of course. I basically filled the top, tipped it to the dual 120mmrad, and tipped that water to the lower line, where the pump is, then refilled the top, did another tip, and was good to go.

Thanks for the feedback, I'm really curious about that 1/2" to 3/8" issue.
EDIT: is 40C bad for the NB?

[Spawn-Inc]

40C is fine for temps for the n/b. mine is at 45C on air with stock cooling with the fan at 50%

you might have been better off with some Y's or F's instead of T's

like this, Swiftech-F-Fittings (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-F-Fittings-1-2-pr-3600.html) accept stupid swiftech only makes 1/2" that split off to 1/4" so it's kinda pointless.

as for the 1/2, 3/8 thing i am looking some stuff up and should have a answer relativity soon.

[Scotty]

Your NB temps are pretty much the same as mine, the flow on yours will be lower because of how you looped it like spawn said but it's taking warm water from the GPU to it. As yours is a X38, i suspect it to be hotter than a P35 in my Blitz and if so it's still pretty cool, you have to remember that Fusion block it isn't really the highest of all quality blocks.

My loop is 1/2", except where it has to go into the NB, so im probably loosing flow because of it as mine is all in series. But my temps aren't too bad, they aren't the best in the world, but my Quad has a crap load of volts, the NB is coping with a nice FSB and the GTX is putting a nice amount of heat in to the loop at it's clocks.

And are those CPU temps a Q6600? IF so is it at stock or what?

[isunktheship]

Right now it's all at stock. I'm having some weird problems with my video card (that I've had since I've purchased it) so I might OC this system a little before sending the card back to XFX to get it checked out.

Here's my explanation for the split, and 'T's:
Originally I did look into 'F's and Y's, but I couldn't find any Y's that went from 1/2" to dual 3/8"s, and like you already mentioned the F's are useless unless it's specifically for swiftech stuff.

Second, I did a little math work. A single 1/2" diameter tube has an area of:
(1/2")/2 = 1/4 this is the radius
(1/4)^2*pi = area
area = .196

Dual 3/8" tubes have a TOTAL area of:
(3/8")/2 = 3/16 this is the radius of ONE tube
(3/16)^2*pi = area of ONE = .110
area * 2 = area of both
area of both = .220

.220/.196 is roughly 12%, which means that having 1/2" to dual 3/8" tubes drops the pressure/speed by 12%. They are so close to being the same.

Next, the motherboard tubes look very small, definitely not 3/8" tubes, they're tiny metal pipes. If the pressure is too high going in there, which I have heard high flow systems have had, the tubes could just pop off and I would be left with a destroyed computer. So basically what I did was I made an "offramp" for excess water. I'm not too concerned with the NB/SB since it cant cool itself normally without watercooling, so the watercooling is just a bonus. Also, the outflow from the 'T' where the two 3/8" tubes reconnect give the 1/2" no pressure differences, allowing for the whole system to be unaffected by the motherboard loop. (also the motherboard hose connectors are so close together that I can't use real clamps, I have to trust ASUS with they're ones.)

How's that sound? It convinced me!:D

[Spawn-Inc]

you have to remember that Fusion block it isn't really the highest of all quality blocks.



not sure what you mean there, they are the number 1 block for quads ATM...



Right now it's all at stock. I'm having some weird problems with my video card (that I've had since I've purchased it) so I might OC this system a little before sending the card back to XFX to get it checked out.

Here's my explanation for the split, and 'T's:
Originally I did look into 'F's and Y's, but I couldn't find any Y's that went from 1/2" to dual 3/8"s, and like you already mentioned the F's are useless unless it's specifically for swiftech stuff.

Second, I did a little math work. A single 1/2" diameter tube has an area of:
(1/2")/2 = 1/4 this is the radius
(1/4)^2*pi = area
area = .196

Dual 3/8" tubes have a TOTAL area of:
(3/8")/2 = 3/16 this is the radius of ONE tube
(3/16)^2*pi = area of ONE = .110
area * 2 = area of both
area of both = .220

.220/.196 is roughly 12%, which means that having 1/2" to dual 3/8" tubes drops the pressure/speed by 12%. They are so close to being the same.

Next, the motherboard tubes look very small, definitely not 3/8" tubes, they're tiny metal pipes. If the pressure is too high going in there, which I have heard high flow systems have had, the tubes could just pop off and I would be left with a destroyed computer. So basically what I did was I made an "offramp" for excess water. I'm not too concerned with the NB/SB since it cant cool itself normally without watercooling, so the watercooling is just a bonus. Also, the outflow from the 'T' where the two 3/8" tubes reconnect give the 1/2" no pressure differences, allowing for the whole system to be unaffected by the motherboard loop. (also the motherboard hose connectors are so close together that I can't use real clamps, I have to trust ASUS with they're ones.)

How's that sound? It convinced me!:D

hmm, seems you have done more math research that i first though. 40 is a fine temp for n/b and like you said it can go air (maybe add a side fan to blow over the fins for more cooling, if your worried) and water is just a bonus.

here (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=544099) is a thread i started at ocforums, they have some w/c guru's there.

the 2 people who replied both said put it in series, but things are fine and i more so brought this whole thing up for a next time or if you get a new piece of hardware.

[Scotty]

not sure what you mean there, they are the number 1 block for quads ATM...


No Doofus.

The Asus block is called Fusion.

The Dtek FuZion, is an awesome block.

Get it right Spawn!

[isunktheship]

Thanks for making that post there, I'll bookmark that! Next time I'm in there I might switch it over, I'm also going to be posting on that new thread too!

[Spawn-Inc]

No Doofus.

The Asus block is called Fusion.

The Dtek FuZion, is an awesome block.

Get it right Spawn!

oohh i thought you were talking cpu blocks, mybad.

[isunktheship]

Good news, I slapped a low speed 120mm fan on the bottom of my case, and the NB temps shot down from 38 to 31C. It's very quiet, and does the job.

One thing I'll keep in mind when buying 120's next time is that if you get a highspeed 120, and you turn it down, which simulates a low speed fan, you get this obnoxious electrical sound, it's a buzz/hum.

If I turn all of my high speed fans to low it sounds like my computer is a struggling electric motor. Turn them off, it's silent, turn them up and it's a little loud. I might replace the high speeds with medium/low, since turning up the fans doesn't do a TON for the cooling, just as long as air is going through.