PDA

View Full Version : Powertools: too much power?



Spaceroach
08-27-2005, 10:47 PM
Okay, I've never cut into a steel side panel before today. The results shocked me. After making a pilot cut with my trusty Dremel, I slipped my brand new jigsaw into the cut and started it. It cut well for an inch or two, then it started to tear rather than cut. My side panel is visibly warped now, and the cut is so ragged I may have to cannibalize another case to replace it (o no!).

I've decided to go and get tin snips, as I've cut metal with those before and had few problems. At the worst I'll get a workout for my forearms. :D

But my recent errors with the jigsaw make me leery about taking it to my nice plexiglass I just bought - what if I shatter it? I can't afford to get more of this stuff cut - in fact, I can't really afford all these power tools I bought, and I plan on selling them as soon as I finish. Should I make cuts with the jigsaw, or should I be slow and steady with my Dremel?

Chapel
08-27-2005, 11:09 PM
to be ultra safe use the dremel. But with the jigsaw, make sure your using the right blade, and its at the right speed. Jigsaw would be faster and can work well, but the dremel is more preciese at the sacrafice of speeds.

Spaceroach
08-27-2005, 11:25 PM
The blades I have were included with the saw and are multipurpose. I bought blades for cutting metal specifically, but they are the wrong shank and will not fit in the tool. The packaging of the jigsaw explicitly stated that it can cut plastic. I'm hoping I don't need special blades to do it cuz I'm way over budget.

The plexi is 1/4 inch BTW.

Malatory
08-27-2005, 11:47 PM
the problem you had with the jigsaw could be that your metal was not braced well and you didn't hold down the jigsaw or were trying to go to fast. those were my problems with using a jigsaw the 1st time plus you really should have metal blades. The multipurpose ones will work but tend to wear out fast with metal.

cutting plastic, you will need to keep the saw at a low power and less teeth per inch will help on the melting of the plastic (just around the edges)

public_eyesore
08-28-2005, 01:38 AM
make sure the blade has 3 or more teeth always on the metal, your teeth might be too far apart.

slaveofconvention
08-28-2005, 07:02 AM
I wouldn't reccomend trying the dremel on plastic - generally speaking dremels don't cut, they grind a very thin line which effectively does the same thing - with plastic though 1) It's gonna REALLY stink 2) Fumes may be toxic 3) Melted plastic will accumulate and may slow things down and spoil the edges. Great for metal, I wouldn't use anything else on case panels etc, but I have used a dremel on several plastics in the past and won't be doing it again

Spaceroach
08-28-2005, 02:37 PM
I wouldn't reccomend trying the dremel on plastic...


Then how do you cut plastic? If I cannot use a dremel I'm down to using karate chops. :D


I'll try the jigsaw as per the advice on this thread and let you know how it turns out.

Crimson Sky
08-28-2005, 04:35 PM
Then how do you cut plastic? If I cannot use a dremel I'm down to using karate chops. :D


I'll try the jigsaw as per the advice on this thread and let you know how it turns out.

Try using the saw blade bit (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00008Z9ZP/002-4864332-0581645?v=glance) on the Dremel for plastic--slow speeds will do the trick. High speeds make for gobs of molten glue, and lots of cussing when burned. :mad:

As stated by the others, you must use a metal cutting blade for steel side panels. also, use a metal cutting lubricant to prevent the blade from catching on the material and for overheating the blade--just a few drops as you cut.

slaveofconvention
08-28-2005, 07:22 PM
IF you must resort to a dremel for plastic, I suggest undercutting then using coarse paper or a fine file to finish the cut - I really wouldnt suggest trying to cut to a line straight away.

If you are going to try a jigsaw on plastic, I'd suggest using the finest blade you can find, probably one meant for metal - the fine teeth will reduce the chance of chipping or even shattering that might occur otherwise

Spaceroach
08-29-2005, 03:24 PM
Yeah, looking at the blades I have, they're pretty coarse; I'll head down to the hardware store on Friday to see what I can get...

Edited for spelling.

Aero
08-29-2005, 08:55 PM
If you want to cut plexi with a dremal (I do, not the best way but it works), get a copper carbide cutting wheel. The copper colored one at your local hardware store, it cutt straight through plexi like butter, KEEP IT SLOW!


looks like this: http://www.internationaltool.com/images/dremel/542.gif


The one I got is recommened for plastics and it works great.

Spaceroach
09-24-2005, 12:04 AM
Although I'm not finished by a long shot (don't buy the cordless dremels), I've got my sidepanel windows cut, and I've cut out the holes for the main chassis fan (in back) and the radiator (out front). Right now I'm working on cutting the plexi, and indeed slowness is paramount - my jigsaw went too fast in one spot and I found that the separate pieces had melted and fused; I had to cut it out again.

I picked up the carbide wheel as per the above recommendation, and will soon commence designing and constructing the front bezel (all plexi).

This has been a learning experience for me. Even though these things may be common knowledge to most of you, and is posted in many guides to cutting, here are the things I've learned:

1. When cutting your side panel, the best place to keep it clamped down is the case it's attached to. You won't be able to make the whole cut, due to stuff like drive cages inside the case, but this will make life easier.

2. When you can't cut using above method, try to find some thin scrap plywood and clamp your panel to that. And clamp it down good.

3. Cover your panel with masking tape if you don't wanna bung up the paint job - the jigsaw shoe will scratch it to hell.

4. When you buy a Dremel, make sure it's NOT CORDLESS. I bought the Mini Mite cordless Dremel... a battery charge is good for about ten minutes cutting and then recharge for another three hours. Avoid these things like plague.

5. Quarter inch plexi is wonderful to work with. You want to make something from this stuff; it's great. Just cut s l o w . . . if you smell burning plastic you just fudged up, and your cut is going to fuse behind the blade. Think of this as an opportunity to walk away and take a break (away from the toxic fumes, ideally).

Anyhow, I just want to thank all of you who took the time to offer your expert advice once again; no doubt I'd be known as The Guy with One Hand and a Mangled Case if it weren't for you. :D I'll try to keep y'all updated if I ever make any progress... it'd probably be faster if I had a better Dremel.

GregoryJ
10-04-2005, 11:59 PM
i have found that an old milk crate works well for cutting into side panels. I have never liked Plexi because no matter how carefull and slowly i take it i always seem to shatter it. So i made the switch to Lexan. It is much more flexable and nearly impossible to break. the best thing for cutting any type of Plexi or Lexan would be EXTREME CARE. my shop is flooded with scrap Lexan and broken Plexi. Thankfully i know a guy that works at a glass cutting shop that makes custom windows and he laser cuts them. Thats the way to go.

DickNervous
10-05-2005, 10:15 AM
Well, it looks like it has all been said already, but some things are worth repeating...

- Make sure you have the proper blade for your jigsaw. Metal blades are good for metal and plastic.
- Slow and steady on lexan or plexi
- measure 3 times

As to your comments on the cordless dremel, I would re-phrase them. Do not use a cordless rotary tool for cutting, simply does not have the power and the charge will not last long enough. Cordless rotary tools however, are perfect for scoring or etching, touch ups to cuts, small "adjustments" to cuts, and other small things like that.