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View Full Version : Best way to cut fan holes



Indybird
07-22-2008, 12:52 AM
I am amidst two case mods which require cutting holes for fans. One is 80mm and the other is 120mm. Unluckily for me I do not have a dremel or drill press.

What is the best way to cut smooth 120mm and 80mm fan holes (into steel)?

The tools at my disposal are a jig-saw and a power drill.

Thanks alot,
Indybird

nevermind1534
07-22-2008, 12:55 AM
I'd say use the drill to give the jig saw a place to start, then use the jig saw to cut the hole, but I think that was a given. Just make sure you use the right kind of blade. Go get some sand paper to sand it smooth.

Indybird
07-22-2008, 01:18 AM
I'd say use the drill to give the jig saw a place to start, then use the jig saw to cut the hole, but I think that was a given. Just make sure you use the right kind of blade. Go get some sand paper to sand it smooth.

Yeah I tried that and (sorry for not mentioning this) I can't get the jig-saw to turn in a small enough radius for the 80mm. It might be able to for the 120mm, but I wasn't so sure if that was the best method.

Thanks,
Indybird

Eclecticos
07-22-2008, 01:26 AM
Use these Patterns.
Drill a small pilot hole in the center of each of the the red X's,
Drill the holes, and Mount the fan.
The standard fan screw hole size is 5.5 mm.

60mm (http://www.over-clock.com/guides/60mm.pdf) <=-
80mm (http://www.over-clock.com/guides/80mm.pdf) <=-
92mm (http://www.over-clock.com/guides/92mm.pdf) <=-
120mm (http://www.over-clock.com/guides/120mm.pdf) <=-

Drum Thumper
07-22-2008, 01:34 AM
Holesaw. Pricey, but worth it. I think I paid $20 for my 4 1/2" holesaw.

Check pawn shops, you might get lucky.

blueonblack
07-22-2008, 01:53 AM
How about these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38425

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36222

That gives you hole saws from 3/4" all the way up to 5" for $11 plus shipping. No, they won't last long, but how long do you need them to last? Especially for $11? I have owned the larger set for three years and still them from time to time.

This little device here is also very handy if one does not own a drill press:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Guide/H3487
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Indybird
07-22-2008, 02:03 AM
1) Do you think a regular power drill has enough power to cut a 80mm hole (using those hole saws) thru sheet metal?

2) I was thinking about getting a router (for many purposes other than this), would that be useful for fan holes?

Thanks,
Indybird

blueonblack
07-22-2008, 02:09 AM
1) Hard to answer that, there is a lot of variety in drills, but I'd say the average drill could do it, yes.

2) Routers are VERY versatile tools, capable of lots of different jobs with the right bits. Coupled with a router table and a small metal-cutting bit it would be excellent for this. Even without the table it could be done, though it would be much harder. Even a small router table is well worth the cost if you have a router. Having a router without a table is like having a watch without a minute hand.


Have you considered using a Dremel with a metal-cutting bit? Never tried it but with the right securement on your piece it shouldn't be that hard.
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Indybird
07-22-2008, 02:20 AM
1) Hard to answer that, there is a lot of variety in drills, but I'd say the average drill could do it, yes.

Really? Huh, I'll have to try it tomorrow. I actually already have hole saws, but I just didn't think the power drill had enough power to utilize them. I have a top-of-the-line Dewalt I got as a gift, do you think that could work?

2) Routers are VERY versatile tools, capable of lots of different jobs with the right bits. Coupled with a router table and a small metal-cutting bit it would be excellent for this. Even without the table it could be done, though it would be much harder. Even a small router table is well worth the cost if you have a router. Having a router without a table is like having a watch without a minute hand.

I am pretty sure I'm going to get a router, but I think for now I'll be ok without a router table (with a keyword think)

Have you considered using a Dremel with a metal-cutting bit? Never tried it but with the right securement on your piece it shouldn't be that hard.

Thanks,
Indybird

blueonblack
07-22-2008, 02:26 AM
Piece of advice on the hole-saw usage, secure your work well and keep a GOOD grip on your drill. Hole saws are prone to binding and the drill will try to jump out of your hands if it does. (Screwed up a whole plexi panel on my last build when my big hole saw jumped out of the hole and chewed its way across the front of it.)

Here's a router table for $20:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32221

Again, not the best by any means but holding the router still while you move the work is always better and easier on smaller pieces.
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Drum Thumper
07-22-2008, 02:27 AM
More info on the DeWalt please. I'm using a corded DeWalt for all my holesaw work.

I've also found that taking it slow (ie, don't put all your weight behind the drill) works quite well for knocking out holes. Also, don't jerk up once you get through, else you'll end up knicking whatever it is that you're cutting (see my Filing Cabinet Server for an example).

The holesaw might jam up right before you cut through--back it out with reverse and go back in with higher RPMs and lighter pressure. Feather light pressure--too much and you'll wrench your arm something fierce.

Indybird
07-22-2008, 02:37 AM
Here's a router table for $20:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32221

Again, not the best by any means but holding the router still while you move the work is always better and easier on smaller pieces.

Wow thats not bad at all, I'll definitely look into that. +rep


More info on the DeWalt please. I'm using a corded DeWalt for all my holesaw work.

Its a Dewalt DC759KA (400RPM/1500RPM according to their site). And +rep for all of the help.

-Indybird

Drum Thumper
07-22-2008, 09:45 AM
You should be perfectly ok with that drill. Just be sure you've got a full charge on the battery.

The_Crippler
07-22-2008, 10:05 AM
How about these?


I actually voiced my opinion on that same set of saws in my worklog - On anything more than plexi or wood, they're really just "hole markers." They can't cut through much of anything -least of all metal. Harbor Freight is great for tools that you want to beat on and throw away.

Indybird
07-22-2008, 01:51 PM
I actually voiced my opinion on that same set of saws in my worklog - On anything more than plexi or wood, they're really just "hole markers." They can't cut through much of anything -least of all metal. Harbor Freight is great for tools that you want to beat on and throw away.


How about these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38425

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36222

That gives you hole saws from 3/4" all the way up to 5" for $11 plus shipping. No, they won't last long, but how long do you need them to last? Especially for $11? I have owned the larger set for three years and still them from time to time.

This little device here is also very handy if one does not own a drill press:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Drill-Guide/H3487

Ugh conflicting opinions! Ok so the drill has enough power, but will these hole saws cut through metal?

Thanks,
Indybird

The_Crippler
07-22-2008, 01:57 PM
Ugh conflicting opinions! Ok so the drill has enough power, but will these hole saws cut through metal?

As always, my experiences are my own, and YMMV, but - I have the two sets you have linked and here is the best I have ever been able to accomplish with them on metal:


http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn169/modmakerpics/P4040008.jpg


This is not a case of the power of the drill - it's of the strength of the saws. Pretty much, you can get this far, and then the teeth on the saws start wearing off. Again, they work just fine on plastic, wood, MDF, etc. Very thin metal, maybe - but I'd worry more about that tearing and yanking the drill away from you. Dull tools (and these will dull quickly) are a great way to end up with scars.

Eclecticos
07-22-2008, 06:08 PM
X61BA-ntKN8

Acey
07-22-2008, 06:09 PM
Just not the jigsaw, its probably gonna cause the whole panel to look like jelly

blueonblack
07-22-2008, 08:31 PM
Being the one to recommend those hole saws I have to admit that I have never used them on metal, my apologies for not being clear about that.

And yes, Harbor Freight is great for that very thing. I have always been a proponent of the idea that cheap tools have their place.
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Drum Thumper
07-22-2008, 11:41 PM
I guess I better chime in again. My holesaws are my by DeWalt and are made for metal, hence the ~$20 price tag for a 4 1/2" one.

Home Despot...err Depot is where I picked mine up at, although I've seen them at Ace Hardware too--for about $10 more here in Montana. YMMV.

The_Crippler
07-23-2008, 07:47 AM
I guess I better chime in again. My holesaws are my by DeWalt and are made for metal, hence the ~$20 price tag for a 4 1/2" one.

Home Despot...err Depot is where I picked mine up at, although I've seen them at Ace Hardware too--for about $10 more here in Montana. YMMV.


Exactly...the ones made for metal generally cost what that HF set did...per blade.