Help with circuit

[halcyonforever]

Hey, I am working on a circuit and have a pretty good diagram but I am confounded when it gets to the numbers and wondered if I could get some help.

Here is a Diagram of the wiring:
http://halcyon.homeip.net/heavywater/wire-diagram.jpg

What I need is help with the numbers for the components.

First up the power source is not set, it will be DC power from a wall wart, but I can get what ever voltage you recomend.

The three switches are 5W SPDT reed switches. (already bought Digi-Key59025-030-ND link (http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/958106-sensor-magnetic-spdt-co-5w-59025-030.html))

A marks the resistor for a single LED
B marks the resistor for a dual lit LED
C marks a relay switch that turns off a 110 AC power to a Pump marked M

To give you an idea what I am using this for, these will be built into pipe sections that are then submerged into a water tank and serve as fluid level indicators. When the water level is high enough, the top switch will be closed and the Green light will be on, when it drops below that level, power then goes to switch 2 which if closed turns on an amber light (combined red and green), when that switch opens, switch three is activated, (needs a direct power connect to that switch... just noticed that), the open state turns off power to the pump and turns on an Red LED.

Any help would be appreciated.

[xmastree]

Firstly, since you have ther red and green connected directly together, they will always be on together...

I can see what you're trying to do, Presumably only one switch will be on at any one time.

Don't you want to turn on the pump with switch #3? (assuming the pump feeds the tank to restore the level...)

Also, don't you want the punp to keep filling the tank until the #1 is back on? Currently it will stop as soon as #2 is on, and you'll never reach the level for #1.

I'm rather too tired to work it out just now, but I'm sure I can come up with something.

[halcyonforever]

Thank you so much for offering to help though, let me see if I can explain better.

the bottom switch sits at the bottom of the tank and serves to turn off the pump when the water is too low. The water is being pumped out of the tank to an evaporative cooler and recycled back but will be slowly loosing volume and needs to shut off if too low. I'll re-draw the diagram a bit to re-wire the connection between switch 2 and 3.

I'll get them updated tonight, thanks again Xmas!

[halcyonforever]

Ok I made modifications to the diagram to address the issues you mentioned. I didn't think about it back tracking a circuit and staying lit on both halves after switch 2 opened.

Ok, so kind of talking this through here to make sure my logic is sound.

Full tank
All switches closed.
Switch 1 gives power to green LED,
Switch 2 has no power
Switch 3 has relay in ON position, pump can run (will have a seperate on switch)

2/3 tank
Switch 1 is open giving power to Switch 2 and power to the Red LED
Switch 2 is closed turning on the green LED making the output Yellow
Switch 3 is closed and running happily

1/3 tank
Switch 1 is open, powering switch 2 and red LED
Switch 2 is now open turning off the green LED leaving just red
Switch 3 is closed pumping away

1/6th of a tank
All switches open
red LED is still lit
Switch 3 has turned off power to the pump and now has an open connection where I can put a seperate fault light...

let me know if that makes sense.

[crazybillybob]

A and B would be the same value.
The bi-color LEDs are really two LEDs in the same package that share a common ground.


http://www.fccmonline.com/lan_save_all/images/Bi-Color_LED_SCH.jpg




To know the exact value for A and B we need the following things

What's the Voltage feed in (I know you said anything .....but we need to know what relay your using to minimize the parts and make this simple for you)
What's the voltage and current rating for the Bi-color LED that your using (there all different so I can't guess to much).

I'm guessing here but if this is NOT a super bright LED
green and red voltages are normal 2.2 to 3V, and draw about 20mA
Ohm's Law say's E=IxR (Voltage = Current x Resistance) and P=IxE (Power = Voltage X Current)
So R=E/I or R=3/0.02 therefore R=150ohms
P=5x.02 therefore P=0.1W

So you need a 150ohm 1/8W resistor for both A's and for B Local Radio Shack still Carries these (note if you can't get 1/8W...go 1/4W... Bigger will not hurt here!)

I hope this helps out if not just point out where I'm not making since and I'll try to clear it up... But I'm just a HillBilly :) :eek:


CrazyBillyBob
Yes, That HighTechRedneck!

[halcyonforever]

I see... I actually changed the wiring, origionally B was powering both LED's but the re-wire has each resistor only running one LED, nice. Now to pick a relay.

[halcyonforever]

Ok I think I have found an appropriate relay. Let me know if you think this would be a good option.

Relay; 5 VDC; Solid State; 10 A @ 100 to 240 VAC; Panel Mount; -30 - 80degC;

data sheet:
AlliedElec (http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/OMRON_ELECTRONICS_LLC/OMRON-ELECTRONICS-LLC_INDUSTRIAL-CONTROL_8210053.PDF)

So with that I will pick up a 5V converter (or figure out if I can steal 5v from the powersupply)

Thanks in advance.

[Drum Thumper]

So with that I will pick up a 5V converter (or figure out if I can steal 5v from the powersupply)

Thanks in advance.

That's a simple one--your molex connectors offer 5V and 12V. Red is 5V, Yellow is 12V. Both the black wires are ground.