ReadyNAS X6 Fan and PSU Upgrade

[Mach]

I posted this over a ReadyNAS.com and figured I'd double post it here as there's a couple mods in it that may be useful.

I have a ReadyNAS X6 with 4x400GB drives that I had been using for offline backups ie startup - backup - shutdown. The PSU had about 80 hours of total run time before it failed. The NAS would start up for 2-5 minutes and then the PSU would shut down. Successfully swapping in a standard PSU, pointed to a PSU problem.

As the PSU replacement is no longer available, I opted to replace it with a 120 watt Picopsu. Using a Kill-a-Watt meter showed that the NAS was using 65 watts at full load and 30 watts at idle. After upgrading the PSU, the NAS was using 50 watts at full load. I could have gone with a smaller pico psu (90 watt). The only downside is that the wires on the pico psu contact the sides of the case.

At the same time, I replaced the front fan as shown at this link. http://www.soesoft.com/forums/soesoft/u ... 548634.jpg (http://www.soesoft.com/forums/soesoft/upfiles.aspx/1/ED8BC3C19FED47E4A8ECAA90F6548634.jpg). I used an Noctua 120mm fan with the ULNA connector running at 950 RPM. To decrease airflow noise, I removed the mesh using a piece of dental floss to cut through the original double stick tape.

Where the old PSU was, I widened the hole for another 120 mm Noctua fan. It was mounted to a piece of styrene which was cut to size and then taped to the case using 3M VHB heavy duty mounting tape. It too used the ULNA connector and runs at 950 rpm.

HD temps are 87-89 F and Temp1 is 83F; Ambient is 75F. Noise-wise the NAS is much quieter than before. I can still hear it but I have to be listening for it. All in all, a very satisfying upgrade. Hope it helps.


Frontview temperatures. Fan speed fluctuates between 800 and 1000 rpm.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXub083HQUI/AAAAAAAADYo/_qdhmBjTm70/s800/untitled.JPG
Front with mesh removed
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXVtaMbNI/AAAAAAAADWY/O1SapIXjh30/s800/IMG_5118.JPG
Reverse side of grill
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXkEu-8tI/AAAAAAAADXw/j5MboevQqZM/s800/IMG_5096.JPG
120 mm zip tied in place
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXjA8c0qI/AAAAAAAADXo/WxgB2wi-FQE/s800/IMG_5098.JPG
1/8" styrene panel for rear 120mm fan
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXh4gFalI/AAAAAAAADXg/THWXrRAgx-M/s800/IMG_5099.JPG
Interior shot of rear fan
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXaBEE0lI/AAAAAAAADW4/X3IJVAv_gf8/s800/IMG_5105.JPG
Fan header - note fan header 1 is on rear fan and fan 2 on front in effort to maintain postive case pressure.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXXNsrbxI/AAAAAAAADWg/xNB8cAbiVJM/s800/IMG_5109.JPG
Close up of fan header. 1N4001 diode was added to further decrease fan speed along with ~100ohm resistor (ULNA) connector
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXZNcquaI/AAAAAAAADWw/sGR2WiDrb2I/s800/IMG_5106.JPG
ATX connnector with pico psu note location of DC input jack.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXYNXUGpI/AAAAAAAADWo/WbYv0npSKfA/s800/IMG_5108.JPG
Close up DC input jack exiting rear of case
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXbMoruJI/AAAAAAAADXA/IfOTZlSHetE/s800/IMG_5104.JPG
Pico PSU - Note 4 pin extender connected to standard molex
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXcbk8c8I/AAAAAAAADXI/iLGQ3H36Ehk/s800/IMG_5103.JPG
Close up of wires that contact side of case
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXd27iAAI/AAAAAAAADXQ/-_aq-Z4YtG8/s800/IMG_5102.JPG
Another view
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXgDINGVI/AAAAAAAADXY/eEm957slr7Q/s800/IMG_5101.JPG
Power consumption
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXSlzXh9I/AAAAAAAADWA/SMDx405bsnY/s800/IMG_5123.JPG
Power brick for pico psu
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SXuXUCysKjI/AAAAAAAADWI/eww4VoFoqNU/s800/IMG_5121.JPG

[SXRguyinMA]

nice work, I'm looking into one of those pico psu's for my rockin case project :up: +rep

[Mach]

Thanks, take a look at SilentPCReviews review of them. The reason that I went with the 120 W was that they are less energy efficient at max output.

[NightrainSrt4]

Cool. As for the issue with the psu wires touching the sides, if you are worried about it, you could always cut up one of those thin plastic binder things businesses and college students often use for presentations and such. This would act much the way the plastic inside a regular psu keeps the wires from the sides.