View Full Version : Project Rack Mount
Jarod997
05-02-2009, 02:35 PM
Ok, so, I'm new here (Hi all!). I'm not new to postings, nor to computers, hopefully I won't break any rules.
My first real gaming computer is the laptop I'm typing on, my custom Alienware 7700. The only thing I didn't take into consideration when I made it on their site was that desktop processor = desktop heat... in a small case. Ok, even with liquid cooling it can still get hot if you don't have good air circulation around it. It's been a great rig, but it's time to upgrade to a desktop.
Ok, so here's the main idea behind my first mod. I was thinking, I don't want to "just" mod a case, cause everyone does that. (No offense to anyone, in fact I've seen some awesome mods done to stock cases here!) I'm going to create a case from scratch. Then I needed a theme. What could be cooler than a rack mount system? So there it was born.
Here's where I'm at so far:
Case
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I have sketches of what I'd like to do to make the shell and some of the guts. I'd like to find a source to buy the square knock out rails and the clip nuts to fit them, not much luck yet. (Canadian source preferred.)
Components
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This is what I'm considering:
ASUS M4N82 Deluxe nForce 980a SLI MB
AMD Phenom II X4 940 Processor
Patriot Viper DDR3 2x1's x4 (8 gig total)
NVidia GTX 260 x3
Thermaltake Toughpower 1200W
Crucial 32GB SSD HD's x3 (Raid 5)
LG DCD Burner, Blu-Ray & HD reader
Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatil1ty Champion
and, not in the box: Samsung 30" LCD :up:
Now you might be saying, how am I gonna get 3 vid cards plus the sound card in there? With some PCIe extenders from CriticalCables.com. Maybe... I'm trying to find a much cheaper alternative - $165 per cable is a tad much.
--
So, if anyone has any comments or suggestions, before I start cutting metal, I'd like to hear them. :)
SXRguyinMA
05-02-2009, 02:39 PM
this should be neat, cant wait to see how it works out :up:
Jarod997
05-02-2009, 10:43 PM
I'm working on a preliminary model for the front door mechanism, which is taking a lot longer to plan than I was thinking. Lo, the answer lies in the toy called Construx! I didn't want a single hinge, and the "double" action type hinge I saw at the local hardware store was really stiff for my liking, especially if I put two in per door. Stay tuned, sketches to follow. (Gotta feed my brothers cat or they both won't be happy with me tomorrow. ;) )
Jarod997
05-03-2009, 07:52 PM
Ok, well, I was playing with the double-lever, scissors type of hinge but to get the design right to get the correct double swing I'm looking for is just too difficult. I think I'm going to re-visit that COTS hinge I saw at the h/w store and see if that'll work. Oh ya, gonna check linear actuators on EBay too.
DonT-FeaR
05-04-2009, 02:55 AM
cant wait to see some pics mate... welcome to the forum (crosses out forum) welcome to the family.
madd0ct0r
05-06-2009, 08:47 AM
hinges can feel less stiff when heavy bits are attached.
coff pics /layout sketch/ coff
Jarod997
05-06-2009, 05:38 PM
Hmm, I'm detecting subtle hints... ok ok, I'll put some pics of my sketches up... before midnight... ish.... EST. :)
Jarod997
05-06-2009, 08:34 PM
Ok, here's some sketches... (small pause whilst they're posted elsewhere...)
Rough dimensions, ideas, positions...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3359/3509064282_86e8fa4f9a_o.jpg
This was for a concept of a showy type display of coolant in a cabinet similar to the main computer cabinet. I'm probably abandoning this idea, but may implement part of a panel in the end product.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3551/3508253005_a29c16ae71_o.jpg
Door ideas - quad opening panels (cool, but difficult the way I wanted) with a fan in each panel.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3314/3508253125_b81bf58e70_o.jpg
More layout sketches, testing for NVidia logo to etch into side panel (no more clues for now ;) ) Prototype door latch (the x-type double hinge swing -- I almost had it working)
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/3508253073_7809d79491_o.jpg
Trying to finalize sheet metal layouts.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3417/3508253199_f3f635029f_o.jpg
I'm working on a Catia model, but there's really not much to it yet. Does anyone have any experience in hand joggling aluminum sheet? Like take one piece, lay it under another and hammer it out? Does it work, is it worth the effort? I'd be interested in hearing.
For my next bit of testing, I'm gonna need some plexiglas. Oddly enough Home Depot doesn't have any (straight flat non-constuction related...). Hm, maybe it was only wishful thinking. Oh ya, and a tube of plastic cement... and some LED's... (got those, :) ) and a dremel router attachment (that I DID see at Home Depot, excellent Smithers!). More photos later.
DonT-FeaR
05-07-2009, 06:23 AM
looking forward for more photos. :P
Jarod997
05-20-2009, 06:10 PM
Ok, so I'm playing around with some plastic and doing work with milling a design in the side then having it lit up from the back. Sounds simple enough, right? See photos...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3659/3549161687_56b9c3def7.jpg
Take one sheet of plastic, tape template to sheet (hold yer comments... ;) )
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3304/3549163469_852b1a738c_o_d.jpg
Mill the "N". I realize now the plastic bits are getting under the paper. It shouldn't be a big problem, right?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3030/3549969098_7ff4e97029_o_d.jpg
Ya, right. As the plastic gets under the template it starts to make the cutter wobily and my surface finish is ... less than shiny.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2453/3549161579_6a1754895a_o_d.jpg
I removed the template and took a flat bottom cutter (which I should have used in the first place) and tried to smooth things out.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3406/3549161467_cdfe14553a_o_d.jpg
Here you can see some polish, in which I tried again to smooth things out. The plastic ate my polishing wheel and now the plastic is red. :P Not quite what I intended. Here you'll also notice that if we want the smooth surface facing out, (toward the viewer outside the case), you're not going to see NVIDIA, you're going to see AIDIVN... Again, good thing this is a practice piece.
What have we learned?
Make only a very shallow cut with a good flat bottom mill bit
Don't attempt to make big pockets -- you'll regret it, and not get a good bottom finish
You need a reverse (mirror) image to cut on the inside of the plastic
Draw your image on the blue plastic (protective sheet), don't use paper
Polishing doesn't really work too well with clear plastic
Ok, that's it for now... baby here needs to be changed and fed. More later.
(And no, I'm not giving up all my secret plans for total domination yet.)
AntraxLife
05-20-2009, 09:15 PM
:pics: *edit* this wasn't meant harmfull or negatieve :D
show what you typing on :P
i like the idea and GL making it +Rep and +subscribtion
Jarod997
05-21-2009, 05:13 PM
Ok, here's my current rig -- just because you asked.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3307/3551817527_26bf572dfa_o_d.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3646/3552627614_ce9b0e27f4_o_d.jpg
All photos available on my Flickr account - Jarod997 - Project Rack Mount Set (http://www.flickr.com/photos/26790580@N06/sets/72157617800636806/)
AntraxLife
05-22-2009, 01:58 PM
haha thanks :P i like the corner desk setup :D
Jarod997
05-22-2009, 05:21 PM
bedankt :)
pcclan
05-23-2009, 05:07 PM
nice love the idea
Jarod997
05-23-2009, 10:57 PM
Woot! My aluminum came in today!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3608/3558495572_92a645584d_o_d.jpg
Nice stuff. But...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3558/3557683925_31b0c55eef_o_d.jpg
This stuff is thicker than I though. The sheet is .063" (1/16") thick and the angle, the thinnest they had is 1/8" (.125"). I've seen designs for equipment racks made out of .063 sheet before and I know what we do with it at work. Now, can I do something similar here at home. For my next feat, I will try hand joggling an angle made out of sheet, and the extruded angle. Stay tuned for more photos.
BTW, for those wondering, what in the world is joggling? A joggle is a very slight Z bend in a piece of sheet metal which only raises one "arm" of the Z by the thickness of the sheet. For a good photo, see http://www.cooknwithgas.com/6_12_04_Joggle.JPG. The benefit of this is being able to have a number of things in the same plane, eg have all your frames and stringers in the same plane to attach your skin to without bumps. Hmm, I fear I've not explained the concept too well. But it's late and I will be bekoned very soon if I don't go.
TTFN
widefault
05-23-2009, 11:50 PM
Not sure how you plan on doing the Z-bend, but there's always panel flangers like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66302). Been meaning to pick one up for myself, but I've been putting it off until I have a better space to work.
DonT-FeaR
05-24-2009, 05:10 AM
cant wait to see this one really take off. :)
Jarod997
05-25-2009, 06:08 PM
Not sure how you plan on doing the Z-bend, but there's always panel flangers like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66302). Been meaning to pick one up for myself, but I've been putting it off until I have a better space to work.
Dang! That's like exactly what I could use, and it's only $20, thanks! Hmmm, ok, now how do you do a Z (or joggle as I call it, 'cause it "jogs" around) in a corner flange, both legs? That's ideally what I'm trying to get at.
Edit: Oh wait, I just read the fine print, 18-24 Gauge (.020 to .040), I have .063 sheet. I have angles (I was planning on making from the sheet) which are kinda long and I wanted the stiffness. Hmm, they have a small pneumatic flanger there... but alas, I don't have an air system at home.
Jarod997
05-25-2009, 06:18 PM
Photo update!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3361/3563757643_2ba15223a4_o_d.jpg
Woot, et voila! Hand joggling! Ok, it didn't work quite as planned. Problem 1, don't use T6 sheet; problem 2, don't use .063"; material; problem 3, don't use a small hammer ;) I ended up double bending the sheet to get it to joggle nicely.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3564575334_26147b89f1_o_d.jpg
Ok, here's the flange side side of the sheet I tried to joggle. Hand joggling a flange, even like .75"; really doesn't work well. (See the 3 reasons in the previous photo.) BTW, please pay no attention to the jagged edges, I was experimenting with different dremel bits, most didn't really work too well (routing), I ended up using a cut-off wheel (several actually) in the end.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2437/3564575212_36399c6df9_o_d.jpg
My "brake press". It's a fair size and it's heavy and it's got long guide rods I can grab. (I made it myself in college. :D ) Step 1, clamp sheet in vice. Step two, place sheet against the surface of the work bench. Step 3, reef on the guide rods. Step 4, hammer out the bend to "coin" it. Ya, I know, it's not really professional, but for my test panel it sufficed.
DonT-FeaR
05-26-2009, 03:10 AM
looking good nice joggle
billygoat333
05-29-2009, 08:11 AM
looking good nice joggle
*cough* Thats what she said *cough*
on topic:
yes, it is looking quite nicely! good work and keep it up.
Jarod997
06-05-2009, 02:54 PM
Just bought two new Dremel bits, gonna try a pocket sample in another test piece of acrylic and see what happens. Pics to follow.
Jarod997
06-07-2009, 12:06 PM
Ok, test panel 2 (acrylic) complete. I got lots of good data off of it. As promised, here are the pics.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/3603252871_1e270c2eed.jpg
The new router bit.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/3603252761_99f107807d.jpg
Rough cut with the router bit. It went much better than with the milling bit straight up.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3416/3604065782_80c6a0ca65.jpg
Half of the pocket is finished with the milling bit, can you guess which one?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3635/3603253083_16c73da593.jpg
Some finishing done.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3590/3604066010_4a0f0712c8.jpg
More finishing done.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3395/3604066174_6e7e8eeef8.jpg
Yet more finishing...
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3587/3603253293_77a49fbf36.jpg
Waaay too much finishing for a test panel, but it turned out well... for informational purposes. I can live with this finish assuming I don't get those "blotches" (which are little clumps of melted plastic from my brush wheel).
If you would like to see bigger images, they're available on my Flickr page, if you would like to see bigger images yet, I take all my photos at 4 MP (max res for my little point-and-shoot) - PM me and I'll email them to you.
Well, I learned that it'll be darn near impossible to get the transparent finish I was hoping for - at least way too much work for what I intend to do. This is ok because the transparent look might actually take away from what I'm planning anyway. I also learned that my brush wheel should be applied to finishing before my buffing wheel, and the plastic should be pretty smooth before I even try the buffing wheel. (Or else I'll have a heck of a time removing the finishing compound.) Better not to use the buffing wheel... you'll see.
That's it for now. I'm going to continue some design work on the aluminum skin for the "cage". I'll post some screen caps of that later.
Have a nice Sunday!
DonT-FeaR
06-08-2009, 02:06 AM
looking good.. i find that router hard to use do you?
Jarod997
06-08-2009, 12:29 PM
You need a firm hand and well marked lines. Use climb cutting and you shouldn't get any 'jump' when you get to the end of pass. Other than that, this is a very good cutter.
DonT-FeaR
06-09-2009, 02:43 AM
oh ok kool thanks. :)
Jarod997
06-10-2009, 10:39 AM
Ok, would it be considered "bad" in some way that I do up the sheet metal design, then take it to a shop to get the individual parts fabricated? hehe... um Cause I have this great design, but I don't think there's a snowballs chance in my furnace that I'm gonna be able to make two of the key pieces on my workbench.
I'm still working on the cad model, I'll post screen pics when I have it finished. It takes a while to get parts of it the way I want, then I have to copy all the details to the opposite end of the part, then copy those changes to the opposite end of the part... If I were using Autocad, I'd have the flat drafting done two weeks ago. Then again, if I were using Autocad I'd never get the folded sheet laid out correctly. Ok, ok, Autocad is great in some ways and Catia is great in others. Hey, if they put the Autocad drafting engine into Catia's sketcher (and some other elements) you'd have one heck of a package. Bah, more posts later.
Side note: If you think I'm not talking smoke out my, um, ears, ;) please toss some +rep my way, I am a noob on this forum. :) Thnx!
Airbozo
06-10-2009, 01:58 PM
One note for you about getting a clean finish on your pocket (recessed cut).
I have done something similar to create a plexi back plate. I actually got a very expensive bit for my router used for delicate woodworking and went slow with it. It still left a dull finish, so I used a scraper with a sharp edge to clean it up. I also played with flaming the area with a torch and it work well. The scraper worked better since I did not have to worry about messing up the already finished surface. You can pick up a scraper at the local lumber warehouse or hardware store. Use a finish scraper for wood working to get the best results...
Jarod997
06-10-2009, 02:43 PM
A scraper you say... interesting. But, what happens if say I want to do detailing, in a pocket sort of way?
madd0ct0r
06-11-2009, 08:00 AM
Cut right through and then glue a new thinner piece in?
You'll loose a lot of strength though
Jarod997
06-11-2009, 02:30 PM
Ya... thought of that too. But then either you have a "picture frame" border of the piece you put on top, or, if you try to laminate two whole sheets, then you have to be really good at getting out all the air bubbles. The benefit of cutting through though is I don't have to worry about finishing a pocket. Hmmm, more pondering. (The other thing I'm considering is the back lighting.)
madd0ct0r
06-11-2009, 04:43 PM
Don't glue the sheets, just bolt them at the corners.
No air bubbles.
Granted, you'll need to design some nice stress spreading washers and you won't have the strength that a solid sheet brings, but you'd have a snazzy pictures frame.
The washers could be countersunk flush easily enough with the gear you've got.
Airbozo
06-11-2009, 04:59 PM
A scraper you say... interesting. But, what happens if say I want to do detailing, in a pocket sort of way?
I have no experience in this, but the guy at TAP Plastics told me to use wood working tools used for carving. Just make sure they are sharp and you will get an almost clear result.
http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/store/
Click on the knives and scorps link or the acorn straight chisels.
Jarod997
06-12-2009, 09:18 PM
Ok, woodworking tools I do have, I'll give those a try too, thanks!
I have to use glue if I'm doing the two sheet method. No more clues for now. ;)
Jarod997
06-16-2009, 02:03 PM
Sorry for the lack of updates recently, I've been busy doing some other things like taping up all my duct work (that I can get at), and pulling weeds in my lawn and stuff and stuff. (BTW, use aluminum tape for duct work, not duct tape -- it'll just dry out and become no good. About $15 at your local Rona / Home Depot.)
Jarod997
07-13-2009, 03:14 PM
Well, as described here, in the other thread (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19641) my power supply on my laptop died. It'll be a little while until I can get another in off Ebay (cheapest). $75 shipping incl from EBay, $85 just for the part off of a number of other online retailors. That and with me being off work for a while, and my wife still on mat leave, *sigh* this project is temporarily on hold. I'll post more later as it comes up.
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