the golden sail

[D.Heiße]

Hello,

Now it´s the time for a something bigger project, after my “masterpiece” (Sine curve) gets slowly long in the tooth.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/64e0f844.jpg

The aim of the project is nearly similar how by my project Sine curve, briefly speaking I´ll try to build an “ideal PC”. But how it is by every “ideal”, it isn´t possible, you could only approach on it. Moreover everybody of us has another view of an ideal PC. But generally a PC should have a lot of performance (power), should be very silent, nobody around the world should have the same case, all people should stand in front of the PC and say only “WOW” and at least the PC should be as small as possible.
All who thinks now “Yeah eventual a little gaming PC”, I have to fail you, because the pc will have at the end a similar size how the Sine curve and the CoolIT PC. The reason for that is on the one hand that I don´t play a LAN-parties, so it doesn´t matter whether the PC weighs 5kg or 30kg. On the other I able to implement the other three features (performance, super silent and unique design).

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/1-144.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/2-122.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/d-9.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/3-104.jpg





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I want to create a computer in the shape of a sail that stands on a socket. The sail will be made of gfk and the socket of aluminum. A central theme will be the water-cooling system. The long Plexiglas tube in the front will be later the reservoir for the cooling circuit. In the tube with a diameter of 40mm will be a tube with a diameter of 12mm. This smaller tube has in the upper part a lot of very little holes. Through these holes the water that comes from the socket will splash at the inner site of the thicker tube. This has two advantages in my eyes, on the one hand the reservoir wouldn´t mist up and on the other hand it looks better. The reservoir will be illuminated by two Highpower LEDs, one at each of the two ends. For the cooling I take highly likely radiators from coolIT systems with peltier-elements, because they cool better than normal radiators.
The inner case will be impressed with 24 carat leaf gilding. To get a contrast to the gold all hardware will be black just like the tubing and the water cooling fitting (black nickel). Moreover all cables will be sleeved with black sleeve. To get a great illumination the inner case will be illuminated by two high-power LEDs. Besides the two single radiators the PSU and the pump find a place in the lower part of the sail. The hdd/ssd and the optical drive find their place in the socket. The optical drive is at the back of the socket just like a 230V power connection.
At the back of the sail will be leaf gilding, too. These will be illuminated by 5mm diffuse LEDs, which shine how all the other LEDs in warm white.

Well after some words about my “plan” where the separate things find their place in the case I tell you something about the hardware I´ll use. But at first I want to say a big

THANK YOU
to all the following companies how support this project, because without them the project wouldn´t exist.


http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/bequiet.jpg (http://www.be-quiet.net/be-quiet.net/)


http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/PurLED.jpg (http://www.pur-led.de/)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/Noiseblocker.jpg (http://www.noiseblocker.de/)


http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/Mushkin.jpg
(http://www.mushkin.com/)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/Phobya.jpg (http://www.phobya.com/)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/intel.jpg (http://www.intel.com/#/de_DE_03)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/OCZ.jpg (http://www.ocztechnology.com/)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/CompuStocx.jpg (http://www.compustocx.de/)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/CoolIT2.jpg (http://www.coolitsystems.com/)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/Laing.jpg (http://www.laing.de/)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/EKWaterblocks.jpg (http://ekwaterblocks.com/)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/KnigKunststoffe.jpg (http://www.koenigkunststoffe.de/koenig-public.php?reqInclude=index)


http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/Aquatuning.jpg (http://www.aquatuning.de/index.php)



http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/Dremel.jpg (http://www.dremeleurope.com/at/de/start/index.html)





Because I´m not sure about all hardware I´ll use I start with the hardware with is to 99.9% sure


Mainboard: EVGA X58 SLI LE (http://www.tcmagazine.com/images/news/Hardware/EVGA/EVGA_X58_SLI_LE_02.jpg)

CPU: Intel Core i7-920 ( http://www.intel.com/en_UK/Consumer/Learn/Desktop/corei7-detail.htm?iid=learn_proc-uk+corei7_desktop)

RAM: CompuStocx Diablo3 6GB 2000Mhz Kit ( http://www.csx-memory.com/?site=show_info&group_id=51&article_id=707)

PSU: be quiet Dark Power Pro 100W (http://www.be-quiet.net/be-quiet.net/index.php?StoryID=106&websiteLang=de)

Pump: Laing DCC (http://www.laing.de/eng/products/pumps/dc_pump_laing_ddc/)
Radiator for the cooling circuit: CoolIT Freezone Elite Chiller (http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=3&Itemid=5) (only the radiator)

Fans: NB-Multiframe® S-Series MF8-S2 ( http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produkt_luefter_multiframe-mf8_s2.php) und NB-Multiframe® S-Series MF12-P ( http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produkt_luefter_multiframe-mf12_p.php)

CPU block: EK-Supreme - Acetal (http://ekwaterblocks.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21_30&products_id=211)

Sleeve: MDPC Sleeve (http://www.mdpc-x.com/MDPC-Sleeve.htm)

LEDs: Seoul Z-Power P4 Star (http://www.pur-led.de/product_info.php?info=p1233_Seoul-N42182-Z-Power-P4-Star--warmwei--3000K--145lm-max-.html), 2 Chip Superflux LED (http://www.pur-led.de/product_info.php?info=p858_Warmwei-e-2-CHIP-Superflux-LED-5-Lumen-max-.html) und diffuse 5mm LED (http://www.pur-led.de/product_info.php?info=p658_1-x-warmwei-e-diffuse-LED-5mm-1-800mcd-max-.html)


So and now we come to the hardware that I contemplate, but that isn´t sure.


Video card: GeForce GTX 280 or Radeon HD 4870 with at least 1GB RAM and also water-cooled with EK Waterblocks

HDD: 2 x 1TB

Optical drive: slimline slot-in DVD burner

Tubing/water cooling fittings: 10/8 black tubing and 10/8 black nickel fittings




Well I hope that I could give you a more or less good view about my idea for a nearly ideal PC. Certainly I am looking forward to criticism, suggestions, opinions etc. during the whole process of this project log.

Concluding it´s to say, that I´ll try to provide you each one or two weeks during the next 4 months, 4 days, 4 hours and 4 minutes, because after that it´s the 09/09/2009 9.09 o´clock (at least in Germany) and this is the ideal time for some (final) pictures of the wedding between the case and the hardware…

[Spawn-Inc]

it looks nice and i like the tube routing.

i do have some concerns for the sake of your heat load and what you plan to do with it.

are you saying your using the coolit with the tec to cool, or just the rad from that unit? is that the only rad in the loop?

what pump are you using?

i wouldn't get the ek supreme if thats all going to be in the loop, its restrictive and does best in a cpu only loop with a good pump .

[SXRguyinMA]

another crazy project from you! +rep and +sub

[jdbnsn]

WOW! That is insanely cool!

[Ichbin]

If you make it crisp enough, I can see you winning some competitions and such. It's a nice clean design. Really can't wait to see how it turns out.

[Eclecticos]

An unusual but unique design none the less. Reservoir placement is interesting.
I really like the 3D animation, and renderings. Interested in seeing more of this. +Rep

[DonT-FeaR]

i would sub but i look at every project so.. no point

good luck

[D.Heiße]

So I think it´s time to inform you about the current situation of the project. Unfortunately I could show/tell/write, because I haven´t the Plexiglas tube for the reservoir yet, but I´ll should get it this week.

Nonetheless I build the appliance to warm up and bend the tube. This was indeed more difficult than I thought, because nowhere I founded some progress reports about bending a 130cm long Plexiglas tube. Therefore I had to think of myself how I´ll bend such a tube, whereby to bend it isn´t such a big problem rather to warm it up. For this problem I had two ideas. The first one was to build a box in that I put the form over which I would bend the tube and the tube itself. This box should headed up by a hot air blower, but I think that is very difficult to get a constant temperature in it for maybe 20 minutes, so I discard this idea. Because of this I´ll try my fortune with my second idea. At this the tube will rotate and I´ll try to warm it up with two hot air blowers. Certainly I don´t know if my deliberations are right, but I´ll know it after the first attempt. Well that you have a better imagination what my idea is, here some pictures of the bend-setup, indeed without the tubing, that I´ll glue between the two Plexiglas slices.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/1-148.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/2-124.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/3-106.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/5-69.jpg

Unfortunately this was all that I made last week, and I couldn´t write anymore. The only thing that I could say is that the aluminum socket will be most likely a stainless steel socket.

At least a picture that the postmen bring me last week…
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/6-53.jpg
…what inside is I´ll show you in one of the next updates.

@Spawn-Inc: Well I´ll use the coolIT with the tec, whether one, two or three I don’t. But if I´ll only use one, I´ll use a 240mm “normale” radiator moreocer.

@SXRguyinMA/jdbnsn/Ichbin/Electgicos/don’t-FeaR: Thank you and I try that your aren´t disappointed!!!

[DonT-FeaR]

very nice bend set up mate.. good work so far.

[billygoat333]

wow... that sail is big. lol

way to use legos! they rock. :)

[p0Pe]

soooo.... this might sound wierd, but what about filling that huge pipe with sand, so that you get the least collapsing when you bed it? that way it will bend totally even over the whole place, and i barely think you will need to rotate it:) it will get some weight into the pipe too, that will help force bend it downwards.

[Spawn-Inc]

soooo.... this might sound wierd, but what about filling that huge pipe with sand, so that you get the least collapsing when you bed it? that way it will bend totally even over the whole place, and i barely think you will need to rotate it:) it will get some weight into the pipe too, that will help force bend it downwards.

not weird, good idea. i know in trumpet making the use frozen soapy ice water. or so how it's made shows.

[p0Pe]

not weird, good idea. i know in trumpet making the use frozen soapy ice water. or so how it's made shows.

wouldnt that make the heating very dificult since the water will cool the pipe? sand is way worse at optaining heat.

[Spawn-Inc]

wouldnt that make the heating very dificult since the water will cool the pipe? sand is way worse at optaining heat.

it was done with a tube bender, not heated. like exhausts. then i think once it's put together they put it through a heating cycle but i don't remember that part.

[D.Heiße]

Now I want to get in touch, although I didn´t do a lot of the last two weeks, because of a little misunderstanding with the Plexiglas tubes. But at Monday I could hold the tubes in my hand. The tubes are sponsored by KÖNIG Kunststoffe (http://www.koenigkunststoffe.de/koenig-public.php?reqInclude=index)
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/25-6.jpg

At first I take a piece of the tube and put it into the oven to test at that temperature the tube is bendable.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/3-107.jpg

The result of the test was that the tube is bendable from 145°C and over 165° emerge bubbles in the Plexiglas. Now some people would ask themselves why I want to know this. Reason of this is that I got a great idea under the shower. The idea was to heat up the sand which I´ll fill into the tube. And this hot sand would warm up the tube very consistent.
During the sand was in the oven I tested my spin mechanism with the cold tube and made some photos of it.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/6-54.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/4-95.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/5-70.jpg

Before I put the hot sand into the tube I inserted a fabric tube into the Plexiglas tube. So the sand wouldn´t contact the Plexiglas tube and don´t scratch it. This fabric tube I sewed before two weeks.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/1-150.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/2-125.jpg

Well and now the series of mishaps started. Unfortunately I haven´t no pictures of it, because I was alone at the shop. But I´ll try to explain it with words, if I´ll be successful I don´t know.

At first I fill the sand into the red fabric tube that was into the Plexiglas tube by the help of a funnel. That works relative good, but at the end a little bit sand flowed between the fabric tube and the Plexiglas tube, because I pour in too much sand into the funnel (mishap #1)
Ready with this I screwed down the tube and inserted it in the spin mechanism. Thereby I noticed the tube was a little bit bend. This wasn´t good at this moment, because the tube had an unbalance by the time of rotation. After some seconds the Lego gear were destroyed as result of the unbalance (mishap #2)
Well now I had to rotate the tube with the hand at this I noticed the tube had to grind at two sites, because at this sites were scratches around the tube (mishap #3)
After 5 minutes I had the feeling that the tube is ready to bend. I took it at one site out of the mounting and try to bend it. Unfortunately the tube wasn´t at one end and at a site in the middle smooth enough for bending, so the tube got a little kink at the middle (mishap #4)
The one end I had heat up again with the hot air blower that I hold in the one hand, and with the other hand I hold the tube that it could slide down. Because of this I hadn´t another hand for bending the tube and took my foot. The problem was, that I haven´t such a sensitivity in my foot. I put too much pressure onto the tube and the seal break away from the tube. So the sand flowed out of the tube (mishap #5)

How you could see nearly all went wrong. At the following picture you could see how it looks at the end

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/7-39.jpg

And so looks the tube after I released all the sand of the Plexiglas tube
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/8-30.jpg

In my opinion the result isn´t really miserable, but I don´t like the kink and the scratches.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/9-25.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/10-18.jpg

So I´ll try it once again in the hope that the next tube won´t have a kink and scratches. Certainly I´ll change some things.
The greatest modification is that I won´t use the spin mechanism again, because I won´t need it. I´ll heat up the tube at ca. 100°C with the hot air blower. After this I´ll fill in sand that is 175°C hot. And so the tube and the sand will be 155°C hot, and this temperature is enough to bend the tube.

In the hope that I´ll a get a great bend tube with my next try I´ll start with the Styrodur from this weekend.

Moreover I have some „Hardware-News“. Instead of the Aqaustream pump I´ll use a

Desweiteren gibt es noch ein paar „Hardware-News“. Statt der eigentlich geplanten Aquastream DDC pump (http://www.laing.de/produkte/pumpen/gleichstrompumpen_ddc/) taht I get from Laing (http://www.laing.de/). Besides I´ll get from OCZ (http://www.ocztechnology.com/)a Vertex 60GB SSD (http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/flash_drives/ocz_vertex_series_sata_ii_2_5-ssd) that will I use as for the OS. I also get support from Dremel (http://www.dremeleurope.com/ch/de/start/index.html) and highly likely from Aquatuning (http://www.aquatuning.de/).


Well and now I haven´t to write anything. But if you have questions please ask me and I´ll try to give you an answer. Moreover I would be happy about suggestions and criticism

[OvRiDe]

You are a mad man!! I love seeing ingenuity at work.

I think you did really good for a first run at it. I know if it were me I would have a flat kinked up tube and 3rd degree burns. :P

Looking forward to seeing how you make out on your next run, I know this is going to be a great build!

[D.Heiße]

How I promised you I try to bend the Plexiglas tube again. I did all how I described in my last update and so looks the tube directly after the bend process
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/2-126.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/3-108.jpg

Than the sand was cold I let it drain out…
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/4-96.jpg
…and refill it with hot sand.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/5-71.jpg

So looks the bend tube without the orange fabric hose.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/7-40.jpg

After this I cleaned the tube with water to make some more pictures of it.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/8-31.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/9-26.jpg

To protect the tube from scratches I swathed i tat first with stretch leaf and then with crepe tape
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/10-19.jpg


Well unfortunately I haven´t no more news from the build. Certainly there are two new “hardware news”. On the one hand I´ll use these compact black nickel fittings (http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p6418_10-8mm--8x1mm--screw-on-fitting-outer-thread-1-4---compact---black-nickel.html) that I´ll from aquatuning (http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/index.php). Moreover the T-Balancer (http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p1389_Fan-Controller-T-Balancer-bigNG.html) will be employed to see the temperatures and the flow rate at the desktop.

[D.Heiße]

After I bended the tube more or less good I could start with the positive form of the sail. For this I built at first a Styrodur cutter/thermo saw. Certainly the saw didn´t work at the beginning. I planned to use a 20W transformer, but this worked only 5 minutes. Fortunately I had another transformer with 160W at home and also some 2.5 ohm resistive wire.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/1-153.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/2-127.jpg


Ready with it I could start with cutting the Styrodur into shape. For this I made at first 3 stencils (bottom, back, side)
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/3-109.jpg


Now I started with cutting the 3 pieces into shape
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/4-97.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/5-72.jpg


To get a better imagination of the size I put it near the Sine curve
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/1-152.jpg

I know that I will be a really big PC and that it´s possible to make it a little smaller, but more than 10% smaller isn´t possible. And if I´ll make it 10% smaller I would get at some sites space problems maybe. So I decided to make it rather a little bit bigger before I get into trouble with the space.


Ready with the “base frame“ I filled one site with Styrodur, for the other site I had no more time, but I´ll try to fill the other site tomorrow evening
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/7-41.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/8-32.jpg



@all: How could I change the title of the project log???

[Zeroignite]

To change the title, edit the subject line original post.

You win some reputation, good sir. Very ambitious project, and it seems to be coming along quite well.

[OvRiDe]

Nice Hotwire setup!

I can change the title for you, just PM me what you would like me to change it to.

Also since this is an active ongoing mod, I think we should move it to the Works In Progress section. I will move it after I receive your PM.

[D.Heiße]

I think it´s time for an update once again. These update will be a little bit “bigger” with 25 pictures.

After I filled the left site of the form with Styrodur, I had to fill the right site, too. Ready with it looks so
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/1-154.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/1-154.jpg

Now I had to glue the several pieces of the form. For this I thought it´s ideal to glue at first 4 pieces together and then the “packages” in the basic form. So I build pairs of two Stryodur pieces at first.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/3-110.jpg

These pairs I glued with Styropor-/Stryodurglue that I bought in the DIY market for 7€. To get a better result I ballast the separate pairs with glass bottles
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/4-98.jpg

After some hours I glued always two of this pairs together.
Nach ein paar Stunden habe ich dann jeweils 2 solcher Paare miteinander verklebt.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/5-73.jpg

In the end I glued these „packages“ in the basic form. Here I noticed that the “packages” weren´t very good and I would have a better result without these “packages”. But now it was too late and except 2 or 3 bigger slots it hasn´t more effects.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/7-42.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/6-57.jpg

After the glue was dry I could started with grinding the shape and after two hours this was the result.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/8-33.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/9-27.jpg

Certainly there were some “holes“ in it, but all in all I was satisfied with the result and the holes I filled.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/11-30.jpg

Ready with this I could start with the “second heaviest” work of the whole project. In fact after I bend the Plexiglas tube successfully (that was the heaviest work of the project) I had to adapt it very exactly. To realize this I cut out about 20 pieces that I glued at the front side. I aligned these while I press the tube into the immersion than the glue was still liquid.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/13-9.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/14-8.jpg

Naturally I had now firstly a rough form, because between the separate pieces there were slots how you could see here
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/15-8.jpg

I had to fill these slots with filler, but this is easier said than done. To fill a 2cm radius freehand is not really easy (at least for me). To play it save I swathed the tube with baking paper at first.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/16-5.jpg

Now I fill the slots generously with filler and then I press the tube “in” the filler.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/17-4.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/18-4.jpg


Because I swathed the tube with baking paper I was no problem to remove the tube after the filler was dry. Certainly I couldn´t “find” a complete smooth surface.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/19-3.jpg

To get a smooth surface I built a kind of scraper made of Plexiglas. This scraper has on the one side a semicircle with a diameter of 4.1cm. After the first “run” with that scraper it looked so.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/21-4.jpg

I also filled the transition.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/20-4.jpg

Unfortunately I hadn´t enough time to grind the form because the filler needs a lot of time to dry.


Beside the grind- and fill work I bend the inner tube for the reservoir. For this I had to built a new form, because the radius of the old form wasn´t still correct.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/22-17.jpg

Now I built a kind of “oven” with a diameter of 8cm.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/23-3.jpg

How you could see came the plexitube in the „oven“. The oven is headed with sand that got its temperature of 170°C in the baking oven before.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/24-4.jpg

I fill the sand at first in the Plexiglas tube and then in the big tube. After some minutes the tube was soft enough to bend it.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/25-7.jpg

Well I´m quite satisfied with the tube, because it´s almost perfect except one little bump. This bump I´ll “grind out” and because I´ll grind the whole tube matt it isn´t such a big problem.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/26-4.jpg


A bigger problem for me is, that I don´t know how I should bore the 0.6mm holes in the tube through that the water squirt. But maybe you could help me. Here are 3 possibilities.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/OhneTitel-1.jpg

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc82/Superpeter69/OhneTitel1.jpg

So which one do you like mostly, or have you maybe other possibilities? The only “condition” is that holes should be bored at a line of 70cm, and in these 70cm I could only bore about 140 holes.


@OvRiDe: Oh sorry, I don´t see these other category, but I hope it´s no big problem for you to remove it. Well the thing with the title isn´t really important so you haven´t to change it.

[DonT-FeaR]

sweet! no1 left...

for sure

[tomcatt]

omg amazing !!
Definitely worth rep :-)

[SXRguyinMA]

Indeed, Looks Awesome!

[Scotty]

Very interesting and imaginative idea!

[D.Heiße]

Hello, I it´s time for a further update. I know more little updates would be better, but anyway I don´t find for this. Therefore you have to settle for bigger updates every week or every two weeks unfortunately.

Well as might have been expected the first part of the update is about filling and grinding the positive form. After I glued the “socket” for the reservoir at the rest of the form I filled it with surfacer
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/a-1.jpg

And then I grinded it.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/b.jpg

Ready with this I filled and grinded the „front“ of the form, that the reservoir exactly fitted
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/c.jpg

Thant he reservoir fitted I could put the peak of the form on the rest of the form
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/d.jpg
I don´t know why the peak is ca. 3cm higher than before…;-)
This gap I filled also with surfacer and after the surfacer was dry I grinded it. And at the end it looks so
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/e.jpg

Now the surface was really smooth, but because of the surfacer really absorbent, too. That means I had to seal the surface. For sealing it I decided for epoxy resin because it don´t damage the Styrodur.
After I was ready with spreading the form with epoxy resin I hit the sack for an hour and ditched the form in the sun. But this was a little mistake from be, because than I stood up I found this picture.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-1.jpg
Unfortunately it wasn´t only one fly that taped at the form, but rather ca. 40 mini flies and ca. 10 bigger flies.
However I had blessing in disguise, because the flies were soaked with epoxy and therefore they were similar solid how the rest. Because of this I could grind the flies very easy how the rest. Therefore it wasn´t such a big extra time, because I had to grinded the form anyway.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4.jpg


With this step the filling and grinding of the positive form was concluded. After grinding the epoxy the surface was a little bit “blunt”. So I had treaded the form with car polish. Ready with this some party of the form get a blue hue based on the polish…;-)
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6.jpg


Ready with the positive form I could start with the negative. For this I thought a form made of plaster is the best thing. At first I would casted a complete form, but with a complete negative form I would have problems by laminating the form. So my plan was to made two forms, one from the right side, and the second from the left side
With this plan in my head I started with building a form in that I could put in the positive form and cast the plaster in it. I started with the form for the right side.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7.jpg

The edges I reinforced with architectural foam to get a better stability.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/71.jpg

And so looked the form with the positive form in it.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/72.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/73.jpg

After I casted ca. 25kg plaster in the form it looked so.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/74.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/75.jpg

Past 6 hours I could remove the positive form relative easy. Now the negative form looked how a Swiss cheese, but I think after I´ll fill it with surface it would be very smooth. And I think it´s better to have a lot of little air inclusions than few big air inclusions.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/81.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/82.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/83.jpg

Ready with the right form I could started with the left form. At first I built the form for casting the plaster in it.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/76.jpg

With the positive form in it, the form looked so.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/77.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/78.jpg

And so the “havoc“ after the casting session.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/79.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/80.jpg
How you could see was the leaky so the plaster flowed out because of the pressure of ca. 80kg plaster…;-)

I´ll remove the positive form tomorrow, but at the following pictures you could see the two forms abreast.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/84.jpg


Well at least a little Hardware News, in fact I got a great packet last with the following content.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/h.jpg
How you could see is this a Dark Power Pro 1000W (http://www.be-quiet.net/be-quiet.net/index.php?StoryID=106) that I got from be quiet. Therefore I would say a big, big THANKS to Aaron from be quiet for the great support!!!

[Nate Dogg]

Looking quite exciting :D

[DonT-FeaR]

i really like it its looking really good mate

[Waynio]

Go on the curve master.:banana:
Another outstanding build taking form +rep:bowdown:.

[D.Heiße]

Hello, after I cast the big form with plaster and the plaster was try I could speculate about getting the positive form out of the plaster. For this I installed at first two self made grasps on the positive.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-3.jpg

With this grasps it was really easy to get the positive out of the plaster and so I had two negative forms.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-1.jpg
The result of the second form was a little bit better than of the first form, but only a little bit. That means there were a lot of air locks that I had to fill with surfacer.

Well and so we are by the “theme”, because to fill a concave form with surfacer isn´t such a problem with a normal scraper, but to fill a convex form is a bigger problem with a normal scraper. So I had to look for another alternative. After I short look in our kitchen I found an ideal scraper.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-1.jpg
This red thing made of plastic is an ice-cream scraper from the DDR that means more than 20years old. At this thing you see that you should never trash anything…;-). This scraper was ideal for the big convex surfaces, and for the tight radii I used a silicone scraper from the kitchen.

Ready with filling the air locks of the two forms I could start to seal the plaster surface with epoxy resin.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-1.jpg
The white box is a blow-drier to accelerate the process of drying.

After the second layer of Epoxy I treated the form with wax to get the GRP-form easier out of the negative. Than the wax was dry I polished it and then the drama could start. At first I measured out the “ingredients” for the first layer.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-1.jpg
This is gelcoat for the outer layer of the GRP-form to get a really smooth surface.

After I stirred all together I painted the gelcoat on the form with a roller.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/71-1.jpg
The black color is more just for the hell of it, because the case will be varnished black either way at the end.

During the gelcoat dried I cut out the fibreglas mats.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/72-1.jpg

Well and now I got the first little “doubts” because the gelcoat didn´t dried, that I wondered about. But a short internet research said me that the gelcoat haven´t dry at first, it will dry complete after the first layer of polyester resin.
So I could continue without any doubts with the first layer of fibreglas and polyester resin.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/74-1.jpg

And so looked the form after 3 layers of firbeglas.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/75-1.jpg

Currently I got a real great problem. In fact I noticed that the gelcoat wasn´t dry after two days, and I haven´t had really big hopes that it will dry the next days. That means I had to change my plan.
After I gave some thought to the problem I came to the decision to put the GRP-form out of the negative and then I would continue the work on it.
No sooner said than done and so looked the two GRP-forms.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/77-1.jpg

And so the two negative forms made of plaster.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/76-1.jpg
I´m actually satisfied with the two GRP-form. To get a better surface I pained the two forms with polyester resin and the following week I try to put the two forms to one form together. The result you´ll see hopefully next week.

At the end I´ve one question, namely I don´t know how I should install the LEDs in the interior to illuminate it really good. So if you have a great idea how I could integrate the LEDs in the design of the PC, please let me know it!

[SXRguyinMA]

nice work! looks awesome. should have skipped the gelcoat and done the first layer in carbon fiber :devious:

[D.Heiße]

Hello, after I had to noticed that my „gelcoat-action“ went wrong last week, I brushed the sticky surface with polyester resin. When the resin was dry I had at first a surface that doesn´t stick anymore. The surface wasn´t indeed so smooth how I want, but it was still acceptable for me.

Now I could continue with working on the two forms. At first I marked the cut edges.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-4.jpg
To get a clean edge I used a Dremel, which I got warmly from the company Dremel (http://www.dremeleurope.com/ch/de/start/index.html). At the beginning I wanted to use a angel grinder, but I´m happy that I scraped this idea…;-)

After the two form were cut I washed them.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-2.jpg

And now I stand „in front“of the question how to get these two forms together to one. Beside the fact that the backside had to be completely flat it was very important, too that the tube in the front fitted exactly at the end. Therefore it was inevitable to use the tube during the “glue-process”. That the tube wouldn´t be damaged I wrapped it with kitchen foil.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-2.jpg

Ready with this I could adjust the two forms. For this I screwed on the forms with the backside on a flat board made of wood. Therefore I could be sure that the backside would be really flat at the end. After this I inserted the tube a fix it with cello tape
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-2.jpg

Now I turned the board with the form, because at first I would stick the front edge together. At first I laminate on layer GRP over the slot. After it was dry I touched a pulp made of polyester resin and “fiberglass chips”. This pulp I daubed at the inner surface of the front edge.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-2.jpg
Over the dry pulp I laminate on layer GRP to get a smooth surface.

And now the sail with the tube in the front looked so.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8.jpg

After the front edge was glued I could devoted to the backside. For this a had to change the “stretch appliance”, because with the first version I couldn´t glue the whole edge
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9.jpg

Ready with this a laminate at first the right side. When the GRP was dry I could unscrew the “stretch appliance”, because the sail couldn´t change his form anymore. At least I laminate on thin GRP layer at the inner surface of the backside.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10.jpg

After the edges were all sticky a reinforced the laterals with GRP, because in my opinion they were to flimsy.

When the GRP form was solid enough I could start with mark the things I had to cut out of the form. At the following pictures you´ll see what I´ll cut out next weekend.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/13.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/12.jpg
I´m actually really satisfied with the form and hope that I´ll have enough place for the hardware in it.

To get a better imagination about the dimension of the golden sail I put the form besides the sinecurve (a PC that I build 2 years ago). The sine curve is ca. 70cm high but how you could see at the following pictures this PC would be a “little bit” bigger…
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/15.jpg
…if you consider that under the sail will come a 7cm high socket made of high-grade steel you´ll know that the PC would be really big.


And now we are unfortunately at the end of this update…:-(. Well one little hardware news I have for you. Namely I won´t use a Asus Board, but to 95% this hot thing.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/17.jpg




@SXRguyinMA: I think the carbon would “upstage” the 24 carat gold. And so the sail would be true black at the end. But maybe I´ll use carbon in one of my next cases…;-)

[SXRguyinMA]

looks awesome :up: nice job!

I used carbon in my rockin case project...speaking of which I need to finish that thing lol

[D.Heiße]

So after the weekend is over it´s time for a new update.

The weekend started with a small but mighty consignment of aluminum and Plexiglas
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-7.jpg
That´s 8mm Plexi and 3mm, 2mm, 0,8mm aluminum.

The 0,8mm aluminum I used to get a really plan surface at the inner side of the backside. I know another alternative was to grind the GRP, but I thought it would be too troublesome and inaccurate.

After I took the measurements from the GRP form I could start with cutting out the aluminum, and after with filing and grinding.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-4.jpg

Ready with this I could bother one´s head about pasting the instable 0,8mm frame made of aluminum at the GRP really plan.
At the end I decided to glue the frame at the 8mm Plexiglas plate, but not absolutely secure, because after the glue was try I had to remove the Plexiglas plate. Moreover I screwed on the plan piece of wood at the Plexiglas to get a better handling and any more stability.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-4.jpg

To stick on the frame exactly I marked the position at the GRP and then I brushed polyester resin on the GRP. Than the resin was everywhere, where it should be I pressed the frame with the Plexiglas and the wood at the resin and ballasted it with juice bottles.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-4.jpg

After the resin was dry I removed the Plexiglas plate with the wood. This proceed without any problems. Now I could start with cutting out the hole in the Backside with the aid of a Dremel.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-4.jpg

To get an accurate edge I treated it at first with a file. Unfortunately the aluminum frame removed at two “sites” during I worked with the file. Because of this I put it away a take my Dremel. At the following picture you see the big hole in the backside after I had grinded it.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-4.jpg
How you could see, too, I started with filling the radii at the backside.

After the hole was nearly perfect I could started with Plexi plate. This plate is for the lightning of the backside. At first I cut a hole that was 8mm smaller than the hole in the backside in this plate. The 8mm at each side I needed for shaping a 8mm radius on it.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8-2.jpg
In the outside of this plexi frame I´ll bore about 100 holes for LEDs in it. I know 100 LEDs are a lot of, but I needed so much, to get a very consistent lightning.

After the Plexiglas was adapted I could start with the 2mm aluminum plate that should be the back panel of the case. At first I cut it out and filed it that I adapted exactly.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-2.jpg
In this alumium I´ll bore a lot of holes (>100) through that the hot air from the case will stream out. Moreover I´ll cut and file the holes for the mainboard blind and the slot blinds.

At the following two pictures you see how the backside will look at the end
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10-2.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11-2.jpg
At first it´s to say the radius at the Plexiglas isn´t final, that means I´ll grind it exactly later. Additionally the piece pasteboard that is between the GRP and the Plexiglas will be replaces by a frame made of black cellular rubber with a diameter of 2mm. That rubber will equate irregularities of maybe to 0,5mm, I hope.


Well and now we are unfrortunately at the end of this update. At least I´ve a picture for you that shows the GRP from with the tube in the front. I hope I´ll have enough time the next weekend to adapted the tube exactly with surfacer to the GRP form.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/13-1.jpg

[SXRguyinMA]

lookin good my friend, lookin good :up:

[tomcatt]

looking very nice !! love your work

[Waynio]

Really coming along now :), this is going to be fantastic, very original work :bowdown:.

[DonT-FeaR]

looks great :P

[D.Heiße]

Well a little bit late the update for the last weekend, but better late than not at all.

Last weekend I started with chamfering the aluminum for the bottom. After this I marked the angel from the aluminum plate to the GRP form
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-10.jpg
I bend at first the aluminum and after I marked that angel to the form, because it´s easier to cut the GRP form in the right angel, than bending 3mm aluminum in the right angel.

Ready with marking the angel at the form, the form looks so.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-6.jpg

Now I could crop the wedge with the Dremel. Certainly the cutting edge wasn´t perfect after cropping. So I had to file and grind the edge, but the rework wasn´t really much. During I cut and grinded the form a lot of swarf dropped at the form. This swarf wasn´t really good for the next work stages so the GRP form got a hot shower.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-5.jpg

After the form was clean I could reinforce the cutting edges with a 0,8 aluminum stripe. Certainly I did it after cutting and not before like at the backside. Moreover I didn´t use polyester resin to stick that stripe at the GRP, but Rotabond 2000.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-5.jpg

Thant he Rotabond was dry after 3 hours I could fill the “interfaces” with surface. I know, nobody would see this after the PC is ready, but my aim at this project is to make it nearly perfectly.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8-3.jpg

Now I could work again at the aluminum bottom plate, because the plate was indeed bend but not cut into dimension. So I put the GRP form with the aluminum stripes at the bottom plate and marked the dimension with a pen on it.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-3.jpg
After cutting and grinding the plate fitted exact at the first dry. Unfortunately to exact, because after vanishing the case it wouldn´t fit, so I grinded of everywhere a little bit more.

Ready with the aluminum plate for the bottom I could give thoughts to the things that will come at the bottom and above all where. For this I took at first the Noisblocker Multiframe MF8 S2 (http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produkt_luefter_multiframe-mf8_s2.php), that I got warmly from the company Noisblocker (http://www.noiseblocker.de/).
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10-3.jpg
These fans I put at the plate to see how many place I´ll have at the end, because beside the 80mm fans 2 Multiframe MF12 S2 fans (http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produkt_luefter_multiframe-mf12_s2.php), 2 Freezone Elite radiators (http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/freezone-elite.html), one Laing DCC Pumpe (http://www.laing.de/produkte/pumpen/gleichstrompumpen_ddc/), one be quiet Dark Power Pro 1000W PSU (http://www.be-quiet.net/be-quiet.net/index.php?StoryID=106&websiteLang=de) and maybe some other things had to find place their place at the bottom. Because it isn´t really little I decieded to make the inner bottom a little bit higher to 20cm. Because of this the window will have following measures that you could see at this picture.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11-3.jpg

With the final measurements in my head I thought to the problem how I´ll fix the inner bottom that you could see at the end through the window. Moreover the back panel had to be connected with the bottom, and this exactly in a 90° angel.

Because I thought a lot of you wouldn´t understand my explanation here 2 pictures.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/13-2.jpg
Here you could see the 10mm plate made of Plexiglas, that I heated up in the oven to 185° and after it was really hot and soft I bended it over a form.

After the Plexiglas was bended I cut it and grind it. Than the Plexiglas fitted perfectly I screwed it with M3 screws at the bottom.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/17-1.jpg


Naturally this wasn´t all I made the last weekend, because I started with adapting the tube in the front exactly.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/15-1.jpg
For this I wrapped the tube with baking paper and after I pressed the tube into surfacer that I put before in the immersion at the front. Additional I filled the sides with surfacer and after it was dry I could started with grinding. In my opinion the result is quit good.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/16-1.jpg.


Maybe some people noticed at the last two picture that the white surfacer looks better than the black GRP, not only that the surfacer is really smooth in contrast to the GRP. In my opinion the color white is really impressive. Because of this I decided to varnish the case white instead of black.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-7.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-6.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-6.jpg

In my eyes the sail get´s a “optical lightness” with the white color. And because the sail is still really big for a PC the lightness is good for the general impression at the end.


Last week I got also a package from PUR-LED (http://www.pur-led.de/) with the following content
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/14.jpg
120xwarmwhite diffuse LEDS (http://www.pur-led.de/product_info.php?info=p658_1-x-warmwei-e-diffuse-LED-5mm-1-800mcd-max-.html), 8x3W Power LED Samsung warmwhite (http://www.pur-led.de/product_info.php?info=p1274_3W-PowerLED-SAMSUNG-SUNNIX5-WW531N0-warmwei--120--120lm.html) and 70x Superflux LED warmwhite (http://www.pur-led.de/product_info.php?info=p468_1x-LED-warmwei--Superflux-Piranha-2-5-Lumen-max-.html). For this big THANKS again.

[SXRguyinMA]

nice progress :up:

and...I WANT YOUR SHOWER :bowdown:

[msmrx57]

Nice progress. Love your attention to detail. :up:



and...I WANT YOUR SHOWER :bowdown: So does my wife.

[D.Heiße]

After two weeks I think it´s once again time for an update. Unfortunately I forgot to make pictures second last week. Reason for this could be that I made only little things at the PC and fill the GRP form with surface. Be that as it will last weekend I made some pics that I´ll show you in this update.

I started with cutting the hole for the window out of the GRP form.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-12.jpg
I know the window could be maybe a little bit bigger to look “ideal”. When the window will be bigger I had to make the inner space bigger and the bigger inner space wouldn´t look so good how the space with the smaller window. So I decided to make the hole for the window better a little bit smaller.

With the hole for the window the last big piece from the big GRP form was eliminated.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-8.jpg
At this picture you could see the 3 pieces I cut out of the form

Moreover I got a very nice package from Calgary (Canada) with two Freezone Elite radiators (http://www.coolitsystems.com/index.php/freezone-elite.html), one Freezone radiator, a MTEC Control Center und some tubing.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-7.jpg

The two Freezone Elite radiators will be installed at the bottom of the sail like my plan was. To get very great cooling results I´ll install two Noiseblocker Multiframe MF12 S2 fans (http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produkt_luefter_multiframe-mf12_s2.php ) directly behind the radiators.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-7.jpg

Later I´ll cut two holes into the Plexiglas, so that the hot air could flow from the radiators to the fans. Moreover I´ll bore three M3 threads in each side edge to could install it how you see at the following picture.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-6.jpg
How you could see at the picture I changed my plan for this area a little bit. Namely I´ll install 6 Noisblocker Multiframe MF8 S2 fans (http://www.noiseblocker.de/de/produkt_luefter_multiframe-mf8_s2.php) instead of only three. These 6 fans will shovel the cold air in the case an directly against the radiators. The hot air from the radiators will be exhaust by the two 120mm fans behind the radiators.

Because at the end I´ll make some “final-pics“ from the inner case (without the GRP form on it) I think it would be really great to see the things that are under the inner bottom plate. For that reason I´ll cut a hole in the bend Plexiglas at the left side. At the following pictures you see the dimensions of the hole.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-6.jpg


Besides the bottom area I employed with the GRP form that it fit exactly to the rest of the case and especially to the aluminum plate at the backside. Apparently my preparatory work was nearly exact, because the GRP form fitted relative fast.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-6.jpg
How you could see at the cables on the pictures I´ll have a lot of “fun” to sleeve them all.

At the following pictures you see the backside of the case.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8-4.jpg
The Plexiglas frame between the GRP and the aluminum fitted exactly, but this isn´t such a big problem, because I have to crop only 2cm from the lower side.

Who considered the last pictures a little bit exactly, noticed maybe that under the GRP form is a socket.
The socket is made of MDF an only for test. The final socket will be making of black anodized aluminum. Moreover I think it will look better, when the socket is 8cm high instead of 7cm, or how is your opinion to the socket???
To give you a little decision guidance here is a picture from the front.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-4.jpg


Well and now we are at the end of this update, and I be afraid that I´ll couldn´t work a lot at the PC next weekend, because I´ll come home in the night from Saturday to Sunday…:-(:-(:-(



@ SXRguyinMA/ msmrx57: Thanks for the complements. Well the shower I really nice, but it´s still nicer to shower under it…;-)



Edit: Well just this minute I noticed that I´m nominated for the Mod of the Month July ( http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=172702). So I would be very happy that all who like my project could vote for me. For this many thanks beforehand and I´ll reciprocate with some more updates the next weeks/months.

[SXRguyinMA]

nice progress :up:

[OvRiDe]

Nice work so far! Looking forward to seeing those Freezone Elite radiators in action.

BTW... I am moving this thread to the Works in Progress forum.

[tomcatt]

very nice work as always
Realy love your work !

you got my vote on bit-tech !! :D ;)

[Vitz¥^]

Wow! Looking nice and loving the concept! sweet.

[Mark_Hardware]

Wow those little coolers are really cool!

[Waynio]

Looking great bud.
I'll get signed up on bit tech, can't belive I have not already and I'll vote for ya, I like your creations a lot mate, keep it up :).
Doh!, I just signed up there to add my vote, I could not vote, yet at least, its looking close just 2 votes behind che, could be 1 if I can vote in time.
I'll be adding some pics of my creations on there too and my latest work log, maybe, hopefully, luckily and with a bit more effort on the finish I might get a nomination some time :).

[Eclecticos]

One hell of an impressive enclosure. +Rep
Also like the local landscaping in the background.
Will also vote for you on Bit-Tech. Subscribed.

[Datech]

Congratulations! You can see your blurb here (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/frontpage/)

http://thebestcasescenario.com/oneslowz28/front_page/worklog_notification.jpg

[Beasonde]

Sorry for interrupting you, but all you need to visit this (http://forum.modding.ru/viewtopic.php?t=27616) I think they are similar, aren't they?
P.S. I'm Russian. Excuse me for grammatical mistakes.

[Rivera82falcon]

They are similiar, yes, however, this sail is curved out while the other is curved in. Also, this sail has more details going into it while the other, which is great, seems to have less with a fabric finish.

Excellent work so far...looking forward to hearing your status update.

[Cheron]

that is your opinion. ik think they are both great but indeed very differnt

[D.Heiße]

I think after more than a month it´s time for a further update. Unfortunately I haven´t a lot of time so I hope it isn´t such a big problem for you that I show you only some pictures with only a few words. Well and if you have maybe some questions to the following pictures please ask me and I´ll give you an answer.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-7.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-7.jpg

I´ll glue this little piece of Plexiglas at the tube in the front to hold the whole sail that it has no chance to overturn and the three LEDs are the power LEDs. For better imagination I made a test piece that you could see at the next picture

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-10.jpg#

Well I also started with building the seal for the bottom of the Plexiglas tube in the front.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/65.jpg

Under this seal I´ll install 4 high power LEDs to illuminate the water very well.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-6.jpg

For this pictures I used only three Superflux LEDs. The part that is under the Plexiglas plate will be later in the black socket.


Moreover I bored the holes for the 2 120mm fans in the backpanel.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10-5.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11-4.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/12-4.jpg


Ready with this I made the bottom plate for the internal space.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/15-2.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/16-2.jpg


At the end 3 pictures from the whole case.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-14.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-9.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-8.jpg



And now we are at the end of this update. I only have on picture for you.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-15.jpg

A OCZ Agility series sata 2 2,5” SSD (http://www.ocztechnology.com/products/solid_state_drives/ocz_agility_series_sata_ii_2_5-ssd) with 30GB that I got warmly from OCZ for this project.


@SXRguyinMA/ Vitz¥^/Eclecticos/River82falcon: Thanks guys for your compliments!!!

@OvRiDe: I´m looking forward to see the FZE in action, too. Thanks you for moving the thread.

@tomcatt: Thank´s for your vote, but unfortunately I had 2 votes too little for the first place…;-)

@Mark_Hardware: Well I think the coolers aren´t so little how you think…;-)

@Waynio: Thanks for your commitment to vote for me! Well you could only vote than you have enough post or something like this I think.
If you have a nomination please tell it me and I´ll vote for you!

@Datech: Ohhhhh thanks to devote my project for the “weekly spotlight”, it´s a big honor for me!

@Beasonde: I didn´t see this case before and in my opinion my concept and this case are very different.

@Cheron: I second that! Only the basic form of this two cases are similar.

[OvRiDe]

Looks like solid progress to me. I really like how this project is shaping up.

[Waynio]

/\ me too :)
Nice perforation mate, so it can be done good with a normal drill :), looks great, to be honest I think some mods get put in to the mod of the month a little too early on bit tech, especially if it is up against a near completed mod, if your case was closer to completion you would have had a much better chance, but yeah missed getting my vote in with being new there :(.

This mod is turning out amazing, I want to make an irregular shaped case rather than just a cube now lol :), look forward to seeing the end product & wicked sponserships :D, ssd's are awesome for an os drive, vista behaves as snappy as xp did now for me.

[DonT-FeaR]

nice

[rithunder916]

looks great!

[D.Heiße]

Hello,

after nearly two weeks I think it´s time for a further update. After I made the bottom plate for the interior I could start with cutting out the back plate for the interior.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-16.jpg

To connect this plate with the bottom and the rear I filed some feet made of 8mm Plexiglas.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-11.jpg

This feet I glued with acryfix at the back plate. After the acryfix was dry I mark the right positions to cut M3 thread in the aluminum.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-10.jpg

Ready with this I could start with bending the 3mm white Plexiglas on that I´ll install the LEDs to illuminate the inner space. For this I built at first a form over that I could bend the Plexiglas.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-9.jpg

During I built the form I hopped to get a great idea how I could heat up the 90cm long Plexiglas stripe easily, because the stripe was to long for a normal oven. Unfortunately I didn´t get a better idea how to split it into two parts.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-8.jpg

Now I had the size how long the circuit stripes for he LED have to be. So I started directly with cutting out of them.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-8.jpg

At each of this stripes I soldered on 3 warm white superflux LEDs.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-8.jpg

I connected all the stripes, so that I have to solder only one plug and put it into a 9V bush.

After the LEDs for the inner space were soldered very well I could start with the LEDs for the rear. For this I bored at first 80 5mm holes in the frame made of Plexiglas.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8-6.jpg

Next I grinded off the heads from the LEDs to get a bigger angle of radiation. I also cut the cables that I needed to the right length and removed the isolations of the ends.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-7.jpg

Right after I was ready with soldering the LEDs I assembled all provisional to see the light effect and especially to make a photo from it, that you could see it to…;-)

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10-6.jpg

Ready with soldering LEDs it was time again to bore some holes in the rear plate. But at first I had to find the right position of the 150 holes.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11-5.jpg

For this I made a „sketch“with a CAD program. I think it´s a lot of better than a sketch with pencil and ruler, because on the one hand it´s 100% exactly and on the other it´s more easier to rework the sketch a little bit.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/12-5.jpg

And so looks the upper side of the rear after I tortured the 4,5mm borer about 150 times. I think the result looks relative good and nearly like a CNC work…;-).

In contrast to the holes in the lower part of the rear you see in the upper part the holes from inside and outside.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/13-4.jpg

Now I could devote to the Plexiglas stripe that will be installed infront of the LEDs to refract the light of them. For this I start again with building a form to bend the Plexiglas stripe over it.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/15-3.jpg

How you could see is this form a little bit more exactly than the other form. Reason for this ist the fact that you don´t see the stripe on that the LEDs are so it wasn´t necessary to work accurate to a millimeter.
Ready with this I faced to the same problem how I descriped you at the start of this update namely how to heat up a 80cm long Plexiglas stripe. But now I find a solution that you could see the following picture

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/16-3.jpg

I don´t know why I hadn´t this idea much more earlier, but better late than never…;-)

Thant he Plexiglas stripe was heat up to 170°C I could start with bending it.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/17-2.jpg

Before I take the Plexiglas out of the oven I filled the bottles with boiling hot water, because cold water would eliminate the heat of the Plexiglas instantly.
After the stripe was bending I cut out the stripe that it fitted exactly between the backside and the GRP form.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/18.jpg

Now I assembled all provisional again to give you a little impression how the case looks with the LED light.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/19.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/20.jpg

Well and now we are nearly at the end of this update. Nearly means that I have a question to you once again. The question is about the socket, because I´m not really sure how it looks best. To “help” you a little bit I rendered 3 Versions with Cinema 4D for you.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-17.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-12.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-11.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-10.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-9.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-9.jpg

And now I would be very happy, if you could post your opinion to the socket.



@OvRiDe/don’t-FeaR/rithunder916

@ :Waynio: Well I think like you that some mods get put in to the mod of the month a little too early on bit tech. I was a kind of “startled” than I saw my case nominated for mod of the month. But what´s the point, I think is isn´t really tragic more important is that I finished this mod as soon as possible and a lot of people will like it…;-)

[Mark_Hardware]

nice work, as always. :up:

[SXRguyinMA]

that lighting looks amazing :bowdown:

[Datech]

Agreed, great job on the lighting!

[Waynio]

Took me a while to give a good response to this.
To your request of opinion - I'm gonna say black for the base, to go with the motherboard and all the black accents inside the case & to break it up from being all white and it should define the angle gap beneath the main case better and all the sponser logo's are very nicely done.
Would it not be possible to have a white base painted black but with the logo areas frosted & masked up with leds behind them so the logos glow too or is that a bit too much work, I think it would look very amazing rather than flat logo's and with you being so good with leds, either way thou it will still look awesome :).

And yes the lighting on this is fantastic, nice warm glow of white rather than overly bright light looks really nice, I want to get good at putting leds together like this for future mods, ccfl's are arkward to deal with, can be much more creative with leds, keep it up mate, awesome so far. :)

[D.Heiße]

After I used the last 3. weeks before my third semester started intensive with modding it´s time for a further update of this project.
Because the PC should look very tidy under the GRP-bonnet, too it was time again for planning the inner space.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-20.jpg

The straight lines at the left side symbolize two water tubes, and the over lines right besides symbolize cables. The cables that come from the upper case will be connected with golden 3,5mm headphone plugs. The cables are for the LEDs and some buttons. The cables that come out of the lower box will be connected with the M-TEC controllcenter, and the cables that come from the long slot left besides that box are from the mainboard.

After the plan was ready I built two models with carton.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-13.jpg

Satisfied with this models I consider the material that I´ll use for building that two boxes. At the end I decided to build a frame made of Plexiglas. That frame I´ll glue with Acryfix at the big plate and on that box I´ll screw on an aluminum plate.

In the meantime I received a package from Bielefeld (Germany) with the following volume.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-12.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-11.jpg

For this I want to say a big thank you to for this great support.

After I had controlled that package with a lot of fun I could devote to the I/O blind and the slot blinds. For this I measured all and mark it.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-10.jpg

I cut out the holes with a jigsaw and after this I used a file to got a realy accurate result.

Ready with theses holes I came to the bottom plate, namely to the fan holes.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-10.jpg

With this printout it was no more problem to mark the more than 200 holes exactly. Next I bored the 8,5mm holes and countersinked it at the end.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-9.jpg

With this plate the last big piece for the basic case was ready and I could build the case provisional together. At first I screwed the two side panels made of Plexiglas on the bottom plate.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8-7.jpg


You see at the picture also the PSU-holder and the mounting for the 3 fans. At the end I´ll glue all these things with the 3mm aluminum bottom. So it´s impossible for the bottom plate to sag. All that you could see at the picture will get a white varnish at the end.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-8.jpg

Now I installed the PSU and the 3 80mm fans. Certainly I´ll use other screws for the PSU that look a bit more decent.

After this the CoolIT radiators and the two 120mm Noisblocker fans came to their position over the three 80mm fans.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10-7.jpg

I decided to cut a big hole in one of the two side panels at the bottom area. So it´s possible to see the hardware that´s in it, in case the GRP-bonnet isn´t over it.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/20-1.jpg

Next I screwed on the intermediate floor at the two side panels.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11-6.jpg

At this picture you see the mountering for the slot-in drive. The box is a bit higher than the slimline drive because under and over the drive I´ll apply 3mm cellular rubber. Moreover the slot will be illuminated with 8 LEDs that I glue in the stripe made of Plexiglas.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/12-6.jpg

The 8 LEDs will be connected with the status LED from the disk drive with help of an opto-coupler. So the slot won´t glow always but replaces the normal status LED from the disk drive.

Let´s come to the pictures of the back panel that I mentioned at the beginning of this update.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/13-5.jpg

How watch the picture more exact noticed that the upper box is absent and that in the lower bix are two bigger holes. The absent box is nearly ready and I have only to glue it. The holes are a kind of fan holes for the inner space.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/14-3.jpg

I hope you understand my plan after watching that picture. The two 80mm fans will blow against the mainboard. Because the mainboard has a distance to the back panel of 15mm the air will stream under the mainboard in the inner space and than through the 150 4,5mm holes in the upper part of the back side out of the case.

Certainly the box with the M-TEC controll center won´t be open but a aluminum plate come over it.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/15-4.jpg

I´ll overdraw this plate with leaf guiding and in addition I´ll use black M3 screws. The rest of the back panel will be white at the end

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/17-3.jpg

All the cables will be sleeved white and with the aid of a mounting forced to lie exactly vertical.

Now we come from the back side to the front side.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/18-1.jpg

The white pieces made of Plexiglas are only for the moment and will bail at the end.

So and now it´s time for the solution how I´ll make the mounting for the slot blinds.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/19-1.jpg

How you could see at this picture is it impossible for me to use standard blinds and so I have to make all for myself. But I hope that isn´t such a big problem. The blinds will be screwed on with M3 screws at the mountings that you could see at the picture

At the following pictures you could see how the holes case looks like.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/21.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/22.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/23.jpg

And now we are nearly at the end of this update, but only nearly. Like in almost every update I´ll finish this update with hardware news as related to the graphic card. Namely the company [url= http://www.mushkin.com/]mushkin (http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/ [/url) will support me with a HD5850.


@ Mark_Hardware/ SXRguyinMA/ Datech: Thank you for your compliments!!!

@Waynio: Thanks for your opinion, but I´m unfortunately a bit undecided how I´ll make the socket. Because I think the black is a very hard contrast to the white sail I think maybe a dark grey socket is maybe better than a true black socket. The other thing is I had to find a company that anodizes me the socket in dark gray. To find a company for black is no problem but dark gray…I´ll see.
The idea with the glowing logos is great, but I think if I´ll make it the socket would be to “bothersome” and steals maybe the sail the show.

[SXRguyinMA]

looking more and more beautiful every day!

[Mark_Hardware]

looking great, and congrats on the sponsorship!

[Waynio]

Excellent work mate :up::):up:.
I'm liking the hand made back io panel, something I want to pull off myself on my next mod, coming along perfect 8) :bowdown:.

[D.Heiße]

Compared with the other update this update is really short and contains only renderings.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-23.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-15.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-15.jpg

By way of comparison the „old“ rendering.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-12.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-13.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-21.jpg

Well and now I would be very happy if you could post your opinion to the suggestions/ options.

[raistnox]

personally i like the gold with the white base but if this were my project id try to make the sponsors names in a bolder text so as to break up the white a bit more, and maybe some kind of graphic on the top of the base(nothing overpowering maybe some simple pinstripping) cause theres alot of white on there and i dont know it looks just to plain

[Twigsoffury]

personally i like the gold with the white base but if this were my project id try to make the sponsors names in a bolder text so as to break up the white a bit more, and maybe some kind of graphic on the top of the base(nothing overpowering maybe some simple pinstripping) cause theres alot of white on there and i dont know it looks just to plain

i second this.

i admit i haven't read the whole log, so i don't know your whole plan. But a 24k gold leaf case would be kick a%$. maybe a gold case with a black base?

Top notch building at any rate. looks like it should sit in a fine art gallery.

i also liked the large horizontal signature along the side, over the others.

(thats a hell of alot of drilling btw)

[Remy]

:bowdown:

need I say more??

+rep

[D.Heiße]

Hello, unfortunately I had no time or no passion in the past. This is the reason of the long break between this and the last update. I hope you could “forgive” me…;-)

Now let’s start with the illumination of the inner space. This was actually complete, but only “actually”. Because I wasn´t really satisfied with the smoothness of the light. I know at the pictures I show you I looked very smooth, but in reality it wasn´t the same case. At the following picture that I made with a shorter exposure time you see the real “disaster”.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-25.jpg

To get a 100% smooth light panel I thought it´s enough to take more LEDs. So I desoldered all the 60 LEDs and solder all new with 120 LEDs.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-14.jpg

The result was indeed brighter but still not to 100% smooth.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-17.jpg

Because I had no passion to unsolder again all the LEDs and take still more LEDs I had to take “trick 17” that means “head away”.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-12.jpg

And now I was satisfied with the light panel, because now it´s a really smooth light without any inequality.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-10.jpg

Ready with the illumination of the inner space I could start with a kind of “connecting central” for the PC. At first I build a frame made of Plexiglas.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8-8.jpg

In the meantime I got the 3,5mm connectores.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-9.jpg

I glued the sockets in a white bend piece made of Plexiglas.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10-8.jpg

Ready with this I could start with soldering. For this I made at first a kind of “solder plan” that showed me that I have exactly to solder. Because of this I haven´t to solder on cable 5 times and I also know 2 months later what I soldered together.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11-7.jpg

With this plan in front of my face I was able to solder all these sockets with the opto-coupler and the bushes at the perfboard.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/12-7.jpg

I know I looks like a real cable tangle but with my smart “soldering plan” it is actually quite clear.

Now I could glue the frame made of plexiglas at his final position. After this I bored some threads for the perfboard and the SSD.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/14-4.jpg

Certainly the box get a bezel made of aluminum. A picture with it you´ll see in the next update I hope.

Well in the meantime I got a package that had at his back a little but really nice sketch.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/16-5.jpg

Naturally was the content not less nice like the sketch.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/17-4.jpg

With this delivery the last hours of the great “be quiet!” supply were counted. Natural I made a last picture of it before the aesthetic operation started.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/18-2.jpg

And after maybe 20h – 25h hours the power supply looked so.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/19-2.jpg

For the friends of macro pictures another picture.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/20-2.jpg

After I was ready with sleeving I build in the supply to see how I looked in the case. Unfortunately my pleasure didn´t rise up but rise down.

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/21-1.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/22-1.jpg

The reason of this „disappointment“ was a 2 week break because I had no passion to make anything for this project.

At least a picture that shows my second try to bend a plate made of plexiglas in the form of the window for this project.
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/23-1.jpg


Well and now we are at the end of this update, but I hope you haven´t to wait only two or three weeks for the next update, and not two months…;-)



P.S.: Oh I had nearly forgotten to say you that I came to a decision as related to the socket and the sail. And so I´ll make the socket white and the sail gold. I hope the fans of white sail and black socket won´t be really disappointed and I try my best to “convince” you that a gold sail look better than a white sail at the end…;-)


@raistnox: The idea with the pinstripping is not bad, but I think the socket should be only a socket. That means that with a great pinstripping the socket attract the attention to much. But maybe I don´t like the complete white socket at the end and then I´ll remember to your idea.

@Twigsoffury: Thanks…and I also hope that a 24k gold leaf case would be kick a%$...;-)

[SXRguyinMA]

looks awesome!

[msmrx57]

:eek: no words........ :up:

[Loki]

I love the white flexing :D

Great job, can't wait to see updates

[raistnox]

glad i could help out, i do agree that sometimes pinstripping can be overpowering and detract from the main focal points and certainly with something like this where you just want to break up the white a bit you dont want that, any way good job thus far you are indeed a skilled craftsman and i cant wait to see the conclusion

[Waynio]

I'm lost for words, again :D.
I can't even imagine how bad a$$ this is going to end up looking like, merry christmas. :santa::up:

[D.Heiße]

Christmas-Update

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/1-32.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/2-20.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/3-20.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/4-15.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/5-13.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/6-14.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/7-12.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/8-9.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/9-10.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/10-9.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/11-8.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/12-8.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/13-6.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/14-5.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/15-5.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/16-6.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/17-5.jpg

http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/yy29/superpeter696/18-3.jpg

About questions, suggestions and criticism I´ll be very happy. I wish you a merry merry Christmas and a very great start in our next decade!!!

[Remy]

Beautiful work on this mod. I love what you've done to this point. Keep it up!

[Waynio]

:) Really coming together now, can't wait to see the finnished piece congrats, it is such a nice fuzzy feeling getting a scratch build to a point where you can actually use it, even though there is still some more to do but being able to sit back and say I made that is nice, I know when I got to the stage where I could put my pc gear inside my latest I had a big grin all day and almost did a singing in the rain do hehe :) merry christmas & all the best to all at TBCS.

I'm off to stuff my hdd with cheap quality games courtesy of steam :banana:.

[jdbnsn]

That build is coming together beautifully, you are truly am master craftsman! I think that those white cable sleeves (which I didn't even know existed) look perfect. The audio connector jacks look great too. All around first rate work!