Bärsärkar-gång

[Mach]

Thanks for the kind words guys! It works both ways. Yours and other mods keeping me coming back, albeit in lurk mode. And don't worry I haven't gone MIA. Just juggling a few too many things. Between work, my much over due Novint mod, and fishing season, I'm still edging this one forward. I've been trying to backlog a decent update for you (in part because I'm running out of back story :)). I know, I know pics or it didn't happen. So here, just until I get the update done.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFastH4ciI/AAAAAAAALZA/z5zvfl4Wg3s/s640/IMG_8579.jpg

[blueonblack]

See? Instant inspiration. Humbling at times, but inspiration nonetheless. :D

Thanks!

(Translated: Wow, that is awesome!)

[Mach]

Thanks for the comments folks and for your patience. Work/life have slowed my progress but I've got an update for you.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM47j3ZzziI/AAAAAAAALsA/Pkdw06DPno8/s400/Fontainesuchong.jpg
Conspiracy theorists believe that Dr Suchong's focus on marine life was influenced by Fontaine Pharmaceuticals, a CIA sub-contractor with an early connection to Operation Paperclip. CEO Frank Fontaine, a self made millionaire and entrepreneur, made his fortune with a fleet of Atlantic fishing vessels and fish processing plants dotted along the US east coast. A convenient cover for his wartime smuggling of weapons, contraband, and after the war, German scientists. His payment appears to have been millions of dollars in CIA research funding. The link between Suchong and Fontaine is suspected, in part, because both disappeared days apart in 1948. At the time, foul play was assumed by investigators but never proven. Suchong was reported to have surfaced again in 1957 at the University of Reykjavik in Iceland.

Given the direction of Dr Suchong's experiments, what secrets did he unlock?

-----

Remember the analog meter? The idea is that it will be used to show hard drive activity, temperature, fan speed, pump speed, etc. A couple of mods are in order…
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFb9bjbWRI/AAAAAAAALZ0/YbgXalIEGi4/s640/IMG_5431.JPG
If you recall this is what the gauge looked like disassembled. I tried using a more up-to-date meter in place of the old mechanism but it didn't look as good. Luckily, I watched ebay auctions for a few months and found one that was similar. Jewel made these meters to have interchangeable mechanisms, so I was able to swap in the "new" mechanism and back in business.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFcn7D-3NI/AAAAAAAALaA/dLFSOeslb1o/s640/IMG_5462.JPG
While I was modding it, I added a new mounting arm. While the old was cool looking, running the wires through it was a little tight.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFdMui8kQI/AAAAAAAALaM/ypfio0nB6QA/s640/IMG_5480.JPG
A little solder led to something a little wider :)
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFXNbUXJKI/AAAAAAAALXY/mMX4D0yalhQ/s640/IMG_8596.jpg
This is hard silver solder. It is much tougher and almost invisible.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFZqp50AbI/AAAAAAAALYw/voGEnJwcy9I/s640/IMG_8591.jpg
The back of the meter was designed so that you could wire directly on the positive and negative posts. External wires won't do though. A little modding is necessary.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM4FbvNRgxI/AAAAAAAALrU/GQF13tD13FA/s640/IMG_8733.jpg
I had this picture kicking around in my idea file because I liked the deco design. It’s a good thing…
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFdprdlBcI/AAAAAAAALak/zHNAa4cVMqU/s640/meter1%5B1%5D.jpg
Because it gave me the idea for this
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFWSfOfRxI/AAAAAAAALXE/JYpKfGiFXUw/s640/IMG_8554.jpg
A little muriatic acid and peroxide etching later
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFWD6BEm2I/AAAAAAAALW0/fBkxDMkgUFQ/s640/IMG_8548.jpg
Holes drilled and filed to size
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM3-JxgWw3I/AAAAAAAALp4/j-ZrAsHCTjo/s640/IMG_8641.jpg
Back to the brass shell bag for bezel material
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFWHhJwVqI/AAAAAAAALW8/WVyIZ05miw0/s640/IMG_8551.jpg
A lot of brass for a little bezel, no?
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFVau4FU0I/AAAAAAAALWk/PRZ84yhdUtk/s640/IMG_8542.jpg
With a piece of acid green plexi in place
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFVipfnSVI/AAAAAAAALWs/v7PzF5icxF4/s640/IMG_8546.jpg
Bezel soldered in place. Got carried away with the flux.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM4X5vn8dDI/AAAAAAAALr0/N3Lt_7E5SX0/s640/IMG_8686.jpg
Screws in place and a wiring test. Wiring for what you might ask? The obvious is the wires for the meter and the light for the back of the meter. It also needs a switch that you see in the center and lights for the inside.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFastH4ciI/AAAAAAAALZA/z5zvfl4Wg3s/s640/IMG_8579.jpg
Those lights are BlinkM MiniM's (http://thingm.com/products/blinkm-minm.html). They are "smart" RGB leds that can run light scripts stand alone or be controlled by an Arduino. They are very cool bits of kit made by some very geeky and nice folks. The larger versions will feature in another update. These will be used to signal what's being displayed blue=water temp, green=hd activity, etc
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM4H53xIeEI/AAAAAAAALro/N72OWefImXg/s640/4551927569_f75111be3f_o.jpg
The space to work them in is a little tight though. Concerns about them shorting out was mitgated by an excess of hot glue. Anyone figured a good way to apply hot glue without it looking a mess?
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFZdadhGDI/AAAAAAAALYk/IfTSeHS-pwk/s640/IMG_8584.jpg
For the switch, I was surfing around allelectronics.com (http://www.allelectronics.com) ( a great place to get cheap electronic components) and found these microswitches. The little glint of yellow looked like brass which gave me an idea. A few tries at soldering a 0-80 screw
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFW2ocdWSI/AAAAAAAALXQ/Cihj4KecT-I/s640/IMG_8571.jpg
and I had a threaded switch.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFY928THqI/AAAAAAAALYM/EcMoEd1xxqY/s640/IMG_8628.jpg
The switch, mounted on the back, changes what is shown on the meter. The resistor is for the smd led scavenged from the led microswitches used for the front bezel.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFZATgcSxI/AAAAAAAALYU/EnTUx9Z_uc0/s640/IMG_8627.jpg
To keep with the hex socket screw theme, I drilled and tapped a screw head to fit the stud.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFZLU7e2EI/AAAAAAAALYc/R751RnlEwO0/s640/IMG_8635.jpg
This is the original meter face which has a nice deco design and reflective paint.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFX5DyqmxI/AAAAAAAALXo/LGbp8HAcqoo/s640/IMG_8613.jpg
A little 3M relective tape and some adhesive vellum paper.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFYd2j3jLI/AAAAAAAALX8/Zls1tQhZcvM/s640/IMG_8618.jpg
Here's the new meter face. If your familiar with Bioshock, you might recognize some of text and logo.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFYWzNx6QI/AAAAAAAALX0/nCIMGp3jYMY/s640/IMG_8607.jpg
While looking for reflective tape, I found this tape which is glow in the dark made for fishing lures. Someone might be able to use if for their project. Always looking for new material ;)
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TKFYkDIV7OI/AAAAAAAALYE/OClIzq0T1pQ/s640/IMG_8620.jpg
When I soldered the casing, I lost the awesome chipped and peeling paint. So I'll put the paint back with some self etching primer, black spray paint, and air brush.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM3-r8ZvatI/AAAAAAAALqI/pe9Ry0NU-Rc/s640/IMG_8675.jpg
A drinking straw with half round notch cut out.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM3-cBDUPpI/AAAAAAAALqA/TICNn8EBYSc/s640/IMG_8670.jpg
Placed on the end of the spray nozzle and taped in place.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM3-5BsGqHI/AAAAAAAALqQ/YgNjyvuDxz4/s640/IMG_8681.jpg
From spray paint to air brush paint. It does fizz a lot though so you have to leave it out-gas for awhile.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM3_N6eo9WI/AAAAAAAALqY/ZkG3u2a8IuE/s640/IMG_8682.jpg
Masked off for painting
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM3_bbyv5aI/AAAAAAAALqk/eB9pUn1Cr0w/s640/IMG_8694.jpg
First primer coat
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM4AjkV3j5I/AAAAAAAALq0/CmMIdVxryOI/s640/IMG_8695.jpg
Close up. I love an airbrush, so precise.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM3_rVPwBHI/AAAAAAAALqs/AxrEuigyxgM/s640/IMG_8698.jpg
Black coat
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM4BDdOASvI/AAAAAAAALrA/W6ccfTWdRKQ/s640/IMG_8715.jpg
Once it cures, I'll sand the high points on the back so that the brass shows through but that's another update.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TM4BpF2H5mI/AAAAAAAALrI/8oTR5G-NaEo/s640/IMG_8720.jpg

Thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!

Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg

Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg

HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[SXRguyinMA]

nice work! it's coming along very nicely!

[billygoat333]

beautiful work sir. your attention to detail is inspiring.

[Mach]

Thanks guys! It's getting there. :)

[x88x]

Wow...simply...wow. I'm floored by your work, as always. +rep

[msmrx57]

So........ What's next? Making you own mobo? Absolutely outstanding work. :up:

[Cheron]

Details... details... and more Details, I love this build!!!

[Mach]

Thanks gentlemen! No, no plans for a motherboard scratch build. I bit off quite enough with this one.

Getting there...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TNDeUUAYJvI/AAAAAAAALs4/Esz3WemNC7o/s640/IMG_8750.jpg

[BS Mods]

Wow I just found this.

That is incredible work. I loved Bio Shock. It looks like it came right out of the game.

[Mach]

Thanks BS Mods! Currently, sorting out the meter programming for the Arduino. The blinkm's library is not playing nice with the serial coms. Not so much a teaser as a work in progress. I'll post up details once its working with the other components.

QYlGI31ADyo

The meter is showing CPU load % as I open and close applications.

ck9dJ9_Ml-c

[Mach]

A brief aside for details on the meter/Arduino interface. Some folks were asking how to hook up a meter to their computer. It's pretty easy. I got the idea from here:

http://www.diylife.com/2008/02/02/show-pc-stats-on-analog-gauges/ and
http://www.uchobby.com/index.php/2008/02/12/arduino-analog-gauge/

The second link was especially helpful because of the arduino code. Hopefully, between those links and the following, you'll be well on your way if you want to try this:
5RGJK0DYb8o

Meter
The meter in the video is a 1mA meter from allelectronics.com (http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PMD-1MA/1-MA-DC-PANEL-METER//1.html). Hooked directly to the Arduino, it'll peg at full signal unless we add a resistor. I dropped in a 5.6K resistor which is a little too high (a 5K is closer) so the meter doesn't go full scale if you watch the video. So the meter is simply wired to an Arduino PWM pin (pin 11) with the resistor in line and to ground on the Arduino.

Arduino
The meter is attached to an Arduino Duemilanove (http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardDuemilanove) which provides PWM output on pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOIT7wLYW1I/AAAAAAAALts/9F3n-qOKRiE/s800/ArduinoDuemilanove.jpg

For an explanation of PWM, take a look at this Arduino link (http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/SecretsOfArduinoPWM).

LCD Smartie
So we now have a meter hooked up to the Arduino, we're almost there. To talk to your PC, you need LCD Smartie (http://lcdsmartie.sourceforge.net/). Install it and set it up as follows:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOIYpwqHHtI/AAAAAAAALt4/OdTEiShq-j4/s640/LCD%20Smartie1.jpg

I'm showing "CPU usage (%)" on the meter by selecting the variable on the left. Add a letter after the variable. I'm using "A". This will act a separator between the numbers as the the program loops.

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOIbmKriKJI/AAAAAAAALuU/fx28iyKxiv0/s640/LCD%20Smartie3.jpg

Double check that the com port is the same in LCD Smartie as your Arduino IDE.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOIbtY8XquI/AAAAAAAALuc/mHH-ls9atDw/s640/LCD%20Smartie4.jpg

Code

I've added the documentation to each line of code if you have questions. This is the basics of what you need to interface. You can get more creative with multiple meters or multiple readings but more on this later.

int PWM_Out = 11; //We're using pin 11 but you can use any of the PWM pins (3,5,6,9,10,or 11)
int rxChar; //variable for storing characters coming from LCD Smartie
int controlValue; //variable for accumulating value to be shown on meter
int SetPWM(int value); //function that talks to the meter

void setup()
{
Serial.begin(19200); //open up a line to USB/LCD Smartie
pinMode(PWM_Out, OUTPUT); //Setup pin 11 for output
controlValue=0; //set accumulation to zero to begin
}

void loop() //start looping
{
if (Serial.available()) { //check if serial line is open
rxChar = Serial.read(); //read each character from LCD Smartie
if((rxChar>='A') && (rxChar<='Z')){ //check if the character is a letter
SetPWM(controlValue); //if it is, talk to the meter by passing the accumulated value
controlValue=0; //reset the accumulated value to zero
}
if((rxChar>='0') && (rxChar<='9')){ //check if the character is a number
if(controlValue>100) { //check if its over 100
controlValue=0; //if it is reset it to zero
}
controlValue*=10; //if its not, multiply it by 10 - assume if the value is 25, the
//first character(rxChar) is 2 but control value is still zero
controlValue+=rxChar-'0'; //now controlvalue is 2, the next time through it becomes 20 with
//the above step and the second character(rxChar) is 5 and it gets
//added to 20 to become 25.
}
}
}

int SetPWM(int percent) { //this function talks to the meter on pin 11
int valid=false; //variable to indicate whether call worked; set to false to begin
int pwmPin=0; //Set the pin variable to zero
pwmPin = PWM_Out; //Re-assign to PWM_Out
float pwmValue; //Declare a variable to hold the meter value converted to a percent
if (percent>100) { //If its over 100%...
percent=100; //...reset to 100%
}
if(percent<0) { //If its negative...
percent=0; //...reset to 0%
}
pwmValue=percent*(255.0/100.0); //PWM output is from 0 - 255 so this scales up the value
//Read this for more info http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/SecretsOfArduinoPWM
analogWrite(pwmPin,(int)pwmValue); //Writes the value to pin 11
valid = true; //Everything ok
return(valid); //Go back to the main loop
}



Cut and paste the code to your Arduino IDE and upload to your Arduino. Make sure you don't have LCD Smartie running when you upload. After you successfully upload, start LCD Smartie again.

Your meter should be showing CPU activity so open a few programs and watch the needle jump. You can also try other variable from LCD Smartie like memory usage.

That's the basics of how the PC to Arduino to Meter works. Any questions? :)

More on how I'm doing this next time.

ck9dJ9_Ml-c

[billygoat333]

that meter is effin sick! in a good way, not in the you have herpes kind of way.

[blueonblack]

in a good way, not in the you have herpes kind of way.

Man, I'm glad you clarified that. (The youth these days...)

[TheMainMan]

Definitely just tuned out an entire lecture on Database Applications getting caught up on this phenomenal worklog. The techniques and custom work you've been displaying blows me away! Keep up the great work!

[Mach]

that meter is effin sick! in a good way, not in the you have herpes kind of way.
Thanks billygoat. Let me know if my worklogs ever trend in the other direction...please. :D


Man, I'm glad you clarified that. (The youth these days...) Whippersnappers ;)


Definitely just tuned out an entire lecture on Database Applications getting caught up on this phenomenal worklog. The techniques and custom work you've been displaying blows me away! Keep up the great work!

Thanks TheMainMan! Hope you don't need that part of DB applications :)

Bit of lesson learned last night. The acid etching primer didn't etch. More likely than not I didn't get all the polish off it. I was putting it together and the paint peeled off like tape. The folks over at the model train forums suggested that baking is the key to get good adhesion and recommended scalecoat paints. Waiting on paint to button up the meter.

[Mach]

A few pictures to tide you over until the painting is complete.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TONNRYFPUkI/AAAAAAAALu4/c20D-JpKefQ/s640/IMG_8766.jpg

I figured the meter would be seen from slightly above most times so its canted up. You can see how cleanly the paint peeled off.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TONNsotPO3I/AAAAAAAALvA/xMbT3yRcTEk/s640/IMG_8769.jpg

The etched plate on the back.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TONOAldBC9I/AAAAAAAALvI/SaKeOBQfAmA/s640/IMG_8774.jpg

The back polished, waiting for more paint.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TONOffpbRSI/AAAAAAAALvU/1es1rv-pyxc/s640/IMG_8788.jpg

Rounded the mounting nut to make it lower profile and gave it a quick polish.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TONPDrmEL8I/AAAAAAAALvc/j-NYVefonC4/s640/IMG_8798.jpg

The heat from the soldering cracked the original glass so I cut a new piece, ground it to size, and drilled a new hole for the meter adjustment screw. The edges are a little rough but they should be hidden behind the edge of the meter case.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TONPcshvBLI/AAAAAAAALvk/XsV8kARVct0/s640/IMG_8801.jpg

Thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!

Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg

Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg

HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[raistnox]

personally i like it all polished up with the etching semi rough like it is. just my 2 cents

[msmrx57]

It would look killer aged a bit.

[Starlite KNight]

Do you have to start LCD Smartie each and every time you want the meter to be active?

[Mach]

Do you have to start LCD Smartie each and every time you want the meter to be active?
Yes, but you can set it to start with Windows. That does mean that it doesn't work unless Windows is running i.e. its not standalone.


It would look killer aged a bit.
Hopefully it will be. I'm planning to patina the entire case. I've got a formula for doing it but still working out how. I'm reading up on how to do cracked paint effects. Fingers crossed. :think:


personally i like it all polished up with the etching semi rough like it is. just my 2 cents
I do too, stand alone, but with the amount of brass, copper, and bronze that will be visible, a little contrast will be a welcome addition. ;)

----

While I'm waiting on paint, a little backtracking on sleeving. If you recall, heavy copper was the favorite with the green tubing.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOdm7GQQSaI/AAAAAAAALw0/N6GS82qXXPo/s640/IMG_8826.jpg
To make the sleeving work and keep it from fraying, I cut brass tubing to make retaining collars.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOdmw4SxFkI/AAAAAAAALws/XcpCOki4U78/s640/IMG_8829.jpg
The longer ones are easier to work with but it's too much (yes, I said it) brass. So smaller collars it is...
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOdoEjuU7HI/AAAAAAAALxI/9hLvuvUJaUM/s640/IMG_8825.jpg
I also tested out the suggestion about removing strands of copper to show more green tubing. I tried one with 2 strands but it collapsed on itself. 3 strands works but I don't like it as much. It loses something when the pattern is disrupted.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TOdnq3wH9AI/AAAAAAAALw8/STv5wXCE95U/s640/IMG_8818.jpg
Thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!
Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg
Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg
HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[MrGoat]

First off... let me say this is quite a spectacular case mod. Very well done so far.

I do have a question, perhaps I missed it when I read through this initialy but you put the tubes with the "glyphs" on them inside your brass res, are there plans to put a window on there so those can been seen??

[Starlite KNight]

His updates never fail to impress! I hope you don't mind me answering this one. :)


First off... let me say this is quite a spectacular case mod. Very well done so far.

I do have a question, perhaps I missed it when I read through this initialy but you put the tubes with the "glyphs" on them inside your brass res, are there plans to put a window on there so those can been seen??


They'll screw into the reservoir to provide the necessary bactericide for the cooling loop.


O_O That...looks awesome. It's a shame they won't be visible though.


Not really...I think hidden things like this are awesome. I love the story about the hidden message in Abraham Lincoln's watch (http://www.cnn.com/2009/US/03/10/lincoln.watch/index.html). When I take apart on old radio, you always find hidden notes and symbols. Its the hidden details that makes me grin and feeds my OCD. :)

[Mach]

Thanks MrGoat! Starlite KNight is right, they won't be seen. Consider it an extra detail for anyone watching the worklog. :)

Thanks for the response and watching KNight!

[Technochicken]

That tubing plus brass fittings is absolutely gorgeous! I can't wait to see all the amazing pieces to this project come together.

[x88x]

Mmmm, that tubing looks beauteous in place. :D

[Mach]

Thanks Technochicken and x88x!


Spent Thanksgiving holidays getting over the flu and re-doing the frame for the Blu-Ray DVD.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5I_-MrHD-I/AAAAAAAAJyM/nouwz5v6Yws/s640/IMG_6691.JPG
The old frame wasn't laid out as well as it could have been. A little solder and some screws…
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPMteweO8BI/AAAAAAAALx0/uU7o8EaqN4A/s640/IMG_8831.jpg
No your eyes aren't deceiving you the frame isn't square.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPMtfyKq6EI/AAAAAAAALx8/gjAPgpq906U/s640/IMG_8830.jpg
The holes in the base are shifted off center so a little adjustment was necessary. The joys of found case modding :)
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPMtdpI-dZI/AAAAAAAALxs/bbCzuanTTKY/s640/IMG_8833.jpg
The knurled nuts used to adjust the height of the drive.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPMtA0OD3OI/AAAAAAAALxk/8w8rkp1cQfc/s640/IMG_8840.jpg
The case slot with the drive in place. Next up the frame for the SSD and the Arduino circuit board.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPMtjJ-ey5I/AAAAAAAALyE/6WkJ4lgdU0Y/s640/IMG_8834.jpg
Thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!
Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg
Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg
HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[x88x]

Great work as always. Keep it up. :up:

[Mach]

Thanks x88x!

Not an update to the mod this time but a couple of new materials that you might find interesting. The first is Sugru (http://sugru.com/). It's like silicone clay that you can mold and it cures in the shape you molded it into.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPcMvoeuBbI/AAAAAAAALyg/EZ1YILRyUFU/s640/IMG_8845.jpg

What makes it interesting is that it doesn't require baking to cure, it stays flexible or rubbery to the touch, and being that its silicone, it sticks to whatever you put it on (glass, metal, wood, leather), its heat resistant to 180C and cold resistant to -60c.

As it's silicone, it should also act as a decent insulator for wiring. As far as possible uses, wire wrap, case feet, vibration dampener, soft touch buttons, or flexible mold material for duplicating parts all come to mind.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPcMxi4dHmI/AAAAAAAALy0/ALIKb4ECItg/s640/IMG_8847.jpg

The other material is bronze flex tubing that I found at http://under-the-ice.com/. It has 12mm od and 7mm id so it's a little thin for hard lining a water cooling loop but if you're looking for piping for wiring. Its unique stuff that I haven't seen used before.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPcMwtNeL6I/AAAAAAAALys/4GDcrFvsmzc/s640/IMG_8846.jpg

[Kayin]

Wow. You now have the upper hand. I'll have to find something out of my neverending bag of tricks to top this with.

I think I have something.

However, I'm still absolutely sure you're gonna top me at this point. I love it.

[Mach]

Heh, heh, I believe you can after the last go round. :)

[Kayin]

W00t, have to do so!

[Mach]

A placeholder for later :)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPwlReX480I/AAAAAAAAL4I/U3C9O4VndHM/s640/IMG_8864.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPwlEzl-F1I/AAAAAAAAL30/ow-ckrcxyUU/s640/IMG_8858.jpg

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPwlK9K6XBI/AAAAAAAAL4A/pFizGo8m7Mg/s640/IMG_8859.jpg

[x88x]

Hmm? :think:

[DonT-FeaR]

indeed.

[ATi_Loyalist]

:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

Wow. I'm seriously awestruck by your craftsmanship.

[Mach]

Thanks ATi, appreciate it!

Time is a slippery thing. Sorry for leaving you guys hanging. Work has been a monster since my last post. 2010 is slated to go to down as the weirdest job year ever. Not sure what's going on but I'm hoping 2011 is a little more relaxed.

But on to more mod related topics, Santa came a little early. My new modding ruler from MNPCtech ($29.99+S&H)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPvoZH-NXpI/AAAAAAAAL3g/jdQ6IQiDokQ/s640/IMG_8850.jpg

Back to where I left you, Scalecoat brass train model paint. This is supposed to be the shiznit for brass painting. I cringe to think what's in it.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TQBoEKDQGeI/AAAAAAAAL5g/y-gU0taGfjk/s640/IMG_8870.jpg

My outdoor airbrush studio. The scalecoat has some nasty fumes so I only spray outside which leaves me at the mercy of the weather.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPwlReX480I/AAAAAAAAL4I/U3C9O4VndHM/s640/IMG_8864.jpg

This is my paint curing oven.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPwlK9K6XBI/AAAAAAAAL4A/pFizGo8m7Mg/s640/IMG_8859.jpg

2 paint cans taped together with foil tape and a 75W bulb in the bottom holds it a a constant 150-170 degrees. I can vary it by wrapping the outside in a towel.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TPwlEzl-F1I/AAAAAAAAL30/ow-ckrcxyUU/s640/IMG_8858.jpg

The meter repainted for version 2. The baked scalecoat is very niiice but very durable.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TQBoCQej-GI/AAAAAAAAL5Y/l48yGpzMNvw/s640/IMG_8869.jpg

There's no way I can distress it after painting and make it look good. Back to the masking idea and waiting on the weather in my paint studio to cooperate.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TQBn-vQ0EAI/AAAAAAAAL5I/lhmJkSj_tB4/s640/IMG_8867.jpg

Til then assembling Christmas presents. Anybody got plans for a 1:10 scale grinch sleigh. :?

Thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!
Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg
Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg
HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[SXRguyinMA]

so that stuff is like a powdercoat then? just not electrically conducted? :? seems kinda neat

[Mach]

No it's paint with aggressive adhesion properties for brass but still paint. I'm just speed curing it in the paint can oven.

[x88x]

Looks great Mach, keep up the good work. :D:up:

[Mach]

Thanks x88X!

[OvRiDe]

I think I am going to start referring to you as Machguyver.. you come up with the coolest tools/toys. :D

[Kayin]

If you want a distressable black for brass, get a bottle of Birchwood & Casey Super Blue gun bluing. Works a treat.

[Mach]

I think I am going to start referring to you as Machguyver.. you come up with the coolest tools/toys. :D
lol, nice. ;)


If you want a distressable black for brass, get a bottle of Birchwood & Casey Super Blue gun bluing. Works a treat.

I've tried the Birchwood & Casey Brass Black with mixed results. It's fairly fragile and wears off if rubbed. I used the solution, and then coated it with black patinating wax. The meter case looked fairly good but the etched plate lost too much of the patina when I buffed it.

Attempting to mask off the patina with tape lifted the patina on the case. Sorry no pics before.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TRb4Zl-tUjI/AAAAAAAAL9I/xXMj71tuK7s/s640/IMG_8933.jpg

Looking at the remaining patina around the mounting stud. You can see it was fairly solid and even.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TRb4aV9p5BI/AAAAAAAAL9Q/dZlripX3gtk/s640/IMG_8934.jpg

I'm looking for a solid background for the etched plate hence my efforts with the scale coat.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TRb4btB6BtI/AAAAAAAAL9Y/o4cVsWuWXBM/s640/IMG_8936.jpg

I'm waiting for a decent stretch of weather (high temps and low humidity) as the technique that I'm attempting oxidizes the brass quickly. It uses a salt crystal mask to mimic chipped and weathered paint so it has to be painted right after application.

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide/painting/salt-weathering/

[Mach]

Yes the zombie worklog is back. :) Modding has very much been on the back burner. Real life, specifically work, has consumed most of the modding time.

I had been working on the meter painting but haven't much too show except for repeated fail. I must have stripped and re-painted the meter case 5 or 6 times. I also tried patina wax, liver of sulfur, and Brass Black.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TRb4btB6BtI/AAAAAAAAL9Y/o4cVsWuWXBM/s640/IMG_8936.jpg
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TRb4Zl-tUjI/AAAAAAAAL9I/xXMj71tuK7s/s640/IMG_8933.jpg

I tried it so many times that the combination of ph Down and peroxide that I was using to remove the oxidation and put tooth on the brass started to etch the detail away after repeated dips.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYX9EtO3jI/AAAAAAAAMZc/UO8E66KKIic/IMG_9129.jpg

So I took it as the opportunity to fix a couple of problems with the original face like the solder mess around the bezel. Unfortunately, it took a couple of tries. :) I tried electrolytic etching with copper sulfate as well as Sodium Bisfulate and peroxide but found the best etch was consistently with peroxide and muriatic acid.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYX8qeqZ7I/AAAAAAAAMZU/xxLrUS1IiwQ/IMG_9127.jpg

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TT5W1aJ1nJI/AAAAAAAAMOQ/FRCUajCf-ag/s640/IMG_9130.jpg

The press and peel blue really gave me grief this time around but the addition of laminator soon fixed that too. This is a Royal Superguard Laminator Plus model. A little modding makes it perfect for etching PCB and brass sheet.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TT5X6Fe1MdI/AAAAAAAAMOk/xTsSyQpt7UA/s640/IMG_9113.jpg

Opening up the laminator, see the resistor? A quarter turn there and the laminator heats up to 200F and works wonders for getting a good transfer after about 5 passes through.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYX07bbGuI/AAAAAAAAMYs/xlTimRLy0Vk/IMG_9092.jpg

The laminator also came in handy for another part of the project: the case wiring. This is the bread boarding that I've been doing. Its a continual work in progress as I'm learning about circuits and programming the Arduino.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYX3Id1xMI/AAAAAAAAMY8/hgt8OPYBzFk/IMG_9118.jpg

What's all that do? Controls the lights and sounds in the case first. Also outputs reading to the meter including the water temperature sensor that goes in the reservoir. (no nothing is hooked up in this shot)
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TT5idXr5HMI/AAAAAAAAMQc/YYoU0DpC7P8/s640/IMG_9118.jpg

It'll make more sense when I shoot some video of it working. This is the BlinkM Maxm being triggered off the motion sensor. Like I said it'll make more sense with video.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TT5XvpWM6VI/AAAAAAAAMOc/OvOb8PfijhA/s640/IMG_8972.jpg

Here's the first version of the control PCB (and my first PCB, homemade or otherwise). The laminator and press and peel blue worked beautifully.
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TT5YAd_nG6I/AAAAAAAAMOw/X2CWIurvN3g/s640/IMG_9107.jpg

But the case said redesign for size. Here's the second version (pre-etching). See how the toner transfer held up? Only a few small touchups.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYX4qWwdyI/AAAAAAAAMZE/XD3GpXZgK4U/IMG_9119.jpg

And after etching and drilling. The black was done using fabric dye.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYX7PByd7I/AAAAAAAAMZM/N1UdIdLVdQo/IMG_9125.jpg

I've still got a lot to learn on using Eagle (still have a lot to learn period) and designing circuits but I've got a new inspiration on that front. Check this out. This is a circuit board for a Nixie clock designed by a gentleman in Hong Kong.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TSsY1hd4j6I/AAAAAAAAMFE/F6QcpG1NU0s/s800/11%208%3A41%3A29%20AM.jpg

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TSsY2yy5q7I/AAAAAAAAMFU/RDgzZW5GA0M/s800/11%208%3A41%3A35%20AM.jpg

I recently discovered Nixie tubes, at least their modding potential. If the US government ever decides to allow mail in from western Europe, I hope to have something to show you. Let's call it another experiment in modding. :)

But that's for another day, here's the circuit board mounted on the base of the case. I put a piece of black styrene on the back side to avoid any shorts.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYbgDnhd1I/AAAAAAAAMZw/bHp4l6nG_B0/IMG_9140.jpg
This will be where all the non-essential wiring terminates.

Up next is the case wiring and sleeving. Anyone ever experimented with using para-cord for sleeving?
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYrU_Da7VI/AAAAAAAAMbA/WB1B-RUBb8Q/IMG_9166.jpg

To bring this all full circle, the meter. So today the weather finally cooperated for another try at the meter. Instead of trying to paint and then weather it, I'm doing it in stages. The first stage is the chipped paint on the meter case using this technique.
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide...lt-weathering/

Masked for painting
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYbhJMR2PI/AAAAAAAAMZ4/c45v070POT0/IMG_9146.jpg

Margarita salt applied using a paint brush and water
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYbh0fupsI/AAAAAAAAMaA/VL8mvXyUEKY/IMG_9149.jpg

Airbrush treatment and an hour baking session in the the paint oven. Chipped paint effect.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYbiWxHyoI/AAAAAAAAMaI/lHcJIrWP29U/IMG_9153.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYbkJdeG3I/AAAAAAAAMaY/hxWsNyS79wY/IMG_9156.jpg

Next up is to paint the face using a very small brush. Here's the new bezel in place. Instead of soldering it, I made the bezel so it won't fall through once its mounted.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TUYrUuwZueI/AAAAAAAAMa4/4tCM7B_u4GM/IMG_9157.jpg

Waiting on brass parts to start on the water blocks again. Til then thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!
Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg

Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg

HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[x88x]

As always, great work.

For the nixie tubes, I'm sure you can find a supplier in the US; they were pretty widely used at one time. What country is it that is the problem? As far as I know the US doesn't have an embargo on any countries in Europe.

Also, I ran across these vacuum fluorescent displays a while ago. They're not nixie's, but they're cheaper and easier to use (don't require high-voltage), and give a similar effect.
http://www.surplussales.com/Bulbs-Incan-Panel/VacDisplay.html

[Mach]

Thanks x88x! No embargo but apparently a combination of weather and homeland security have caused a pile up of mail on the european side. I'm still waiting on packages from before Christmas.

Thanks for the tip on the multi-segment VFDs. I'm filing it away in the modding archive. I'm beyond the point of no return on the nixies though.:facepalm:

[SXRguyinMA]

looking good!

[Nutman]

Ok, subbed here. Don't you have a worklog on Bit-Tech, too?

[Mach]

Thanks SXR!

You too Nutman! Yes I have the same worklog at a few other sites. I was curious about the motivation behind worklogging so I put it up on several sites to figure out what the advantages were. It's certainly gets the traffic numbers up which is good in some ways for sponsor statistics but it's a takes more time than I would have thought.

[Nutman]

Ah! I meant RealRedRaider. Not Bit-Tech, hehe...

http://www.realredraider.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=14411&page=10

Given up on that worklog?

[Mach]

Yeah I had a copy on RRT too. I gave up on updating it awhile back.

[jdbnsn]

Oh wow! Mach, you have come a long way since I last checked in here. Incredible work as always my friend. There are alot of modders out there and many of them extra-ordinarily talented but you have shown an even more rare set of abilities than most. That is a totally original style of craftsmanship and inspiring attention to detail. Hell, that is what put this site on the map in the first place with Doom3. Thanks for sharing the superb works of art with us man! And would'ya kindly keep it up?

Jon

[Mach]

Thanks Jon! I appreciate the compliments :redface: although I need to find more time to work on it. And yes, I'll keep it up...after all a man mods, and a parasite says "What will the neighbors think?". :whistler:

[Mach]

Woot! Nixies have arrived. Now the hard work begins but not just yet. I'm going to be out of pocket for the next few weeks until I get a couple of work projects finished but thought I'd leave you with this for the time being.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/TU85KMaRbOI/AAAAAAAAMcI/hatrSsxECnI/IMG_9185.jpg

[Kayin]

Mach, right now I feel this strange feeling as though I dislike you for having acquired nixies before me. However, I'm sure it will pass.

Nice setup, what's it do?

[Mach]

Nothing yet except rotate through the digits but add a few TI INA219 and some shunt resistors then you have some fun ;). Unfortunately these are IN-12s/15s which will be too big for what I have planned. I'll likely use IN-17s or 16s.

Oh yeah, please if you want to get this all figured out before me, I'm moving over in the slow lane so have it :). I'm more than happy to learn by example.

[Kayin]

If I win this auction, I just blew my R&D budget for a bit. However, I'll have a nice new toy that will make every computer on this site quake in fear.

Even the 980X that Trace has.

[Mach]

Arise worklog! Arise I command thee!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-EXQPVvSUam8/Tis78rmWi6I/AAAAAAAANeU/Fcdf2O-CzvQ/s640/Peter%252520levitate.jpg

That's right, its not just a post that goes bump in the night but a real life, honest to goodness update.
I would like to tell you a harrowing tale of my escape from alien captvity but the truth is much less exciting. I've mostly been trading time for money or as its commonly known, working.
Any free time that I've had has gone to making a photobooth for a friend's wedding. Much like this mod, it was a project that took on a life of its own.

Here it is on site being tested by one of the wedding guests. It was designed based on an instructables that I found (http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Portable-Wedding-Photo-Booth/). As the wedding was half way across the country, it had to be disassembeld and re-assembled for the event. A great deal of PVC later, we had a mobile photo booth that could hold 10 people at a time.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Other/Photos/i-C7fNSBz/0/XL/IMG0119-XL.jpg
And the happy couple. Yes, there were costumes and much fun was had by all. :) But enough about that! Back to the modding.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-C8wkD84/0/L/20110820204929-L.jpg
The meter? Remember the meter? No? Allow me to recap, this is the meter that is interfaced with the motherboard to display temperature, HD capacity, ram usage, cpu load….anything really that an arduino can be be coerced into outputting.
Finally got it finished.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-JBgWJW6/0/XL/IMG9515-2-XL.jpg
After several attempts at painting the etched brass back, I finally got close to the look that I was chasing. Aged, weathered, and a little abused.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-JTbvPCN/0/XL/IMG9524-XL.jpg
Looking back at the orginal cracked and peeling paint, it’s a little exagerated but I'm happy with it. This is what the meter looked like before.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-XqfwXnT/0/XL/IMG5431-XL.jpg
Completed the wire sleeving using paracord. It's a pain in the butt to sleeve with but I like the contrasting look. I had to run two sleeves due to the number of wire. Still need to complete a final test and tighten up the threads under the supporting arm but that can wait for final assembly.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-Wc8RCFK/0/XL/IMG9521-XL.jpg
Changing topics, here's the original design for the motherboard tray.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-PnP39Z9/0/XL/arvin9-XL.jpg
And the laser cut brass piece. What's missing is the support brace on the back.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-CnccXFN/0/XL/IMG0129-XL.jpg
Revision 1 mocked up in polystyrene from the last decade :)
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-tLQ4TBj/0/XL/IMG6421-XL.jpg
I've been dancing around what to do about this piece because the tolerances in the case are so tight. When I taped everything together, I could foresee some clearance trouble brewing.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-RtG9KZ7/0/XL/IMG6515-XL.jpg
As originally sketched up, The tolerance were already tight. Part of the challenge is getting everything to fit. I think it all will fit but I don't *know* it.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-j9zqzsR/0/XL/arvin92-XL.jpg
To counteract some of the unknown, the back mount is meant to slide. Yes, it’s a cheat but don’t judge me too harshly my sketchup-foo was/is weak. ;) Literally, an 1/8" makes a difference, more on that below.,
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-BHK2qM3/0/XL/arvin93-XL.jpg
My first attempts went pear shaped quickly with a propane torch. My skills at hard soldering were not up to task. As with most things in life though, I blamed my tools instead. With a newly acquired MAPP and oxygen torch in hand, I tried again. By sandwiching the brass between firebricks, I was able to raise the temp of the piece and get the silver solder to finally flow.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-4Fjfr3b/0/XL/IMG9538-XL.jpg
The discoloration is from heat and the borax flux.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-Nd8JKqF/0/XL/IMG9543-XL.jpg
Up close, not as pretty as it should be but I'm well pleased.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-CSSnzPZ/0/XL/IMG9545-XL.jpg
Into the pickle for clean-up. Anyone know what I'm making when I mix Sodium Bisulfate with Hydrogen Peroxide?
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-Nx77jnF/0/XL/IMG9550-XL.jpg
I'm assuming some variant of sulfuric acid as its much more aggressive than sodum bisulfate alone but the upside is that it doesn't turn the brass pink like normal pickle.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-t6qwmFP/0/XL/IMG9554-XL.jpg
Oh, yeah, I love it when a plan comes together. Still needs further grinding and polishing but it'll work.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-2LwmvKH/0/XL/IMG9565-XL.jpg
The "stack" is still tight.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-JtGRfHk/0/XL/IMG9559-XL.jpg
The original plan had the brass fan grill fush against the back of the case. The design changed when I gutted the heater case and discovered the need for a new frame to support the case skin.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-jJzQf9J/0/XL/arvin94-XL.jpg
The rails that you see that arc over the top are that frame. To gain back the 1/8" that I lost with the addition of the rails.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-gz58g2d/0/XL/IMG9560-XL.jpg
I notched them so the fan grill would fit in between and then soldered the fan grill in place using soft solder. After filing and sanding, I got my 1/8" back. :)
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-RDJSxJ7/0/XL/IMG9555-XL.jpg
With the fan and radiator fixed in place, I was able to finally lock down where the motherboard tray fits. A little drill and tap action and voila…
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-LrBGTCv/0/XL/IMG9572-XL.jpg
It's starting to look more like a computer. By the way how do you like the brass/bronze washer combo on the screws? I'm thinking about carrying that look across the case.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-qbJ4Dwp/0/XL/IMG9558-XL.jpg
Oh look, a wild Big Daddy appears. For reference, the figure is about 7 inches tall.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Bärsärkar-gång/Case/i-98kBstn/0/XL/IMG9580-XL.jpg
Thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!
Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg
Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg
HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[Fuganater]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

[blueonblack]

It's ALIVE!!!!!

And looking absolutely awesome, I must say.

I for one love the brass/bronze contrast.

[AmEv]

I forgot COMPLETELY about this EPICNESS!


How COULD I?!?!?!????!?!!?

[x88x]

Hbwaah? What happened? How long was I out? ...holy crap, it's actually an update! :D

Awesome work dude, it's looking great! :up:

Nice photobooth too. ;)

[Mach]

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
:up::up::up::D


It's ALIVE!!!!!

And looking absolutely awesome, I must say.

I for one love the brass/bronze contrast.

Thanks Blue, yeah I'm digging it too. Still wondering what finish to put on the case though.:think:


I forgot COMPLETELY about this EPICNESS!


How COULD I?!?!?!????!?!!?

Its ok, really AmEv. Don't beat yourself up over it. :D

Hbwaah? What happened? How long was I out? ...holy crap, it's actually an update! :D

Awesome work dude, it's looking great! :up:

Nice photobooth too. ;)
Tough crowd :smoker:. Thanks x88x! the booth was a fun build. Everyone seemed to have a great time with it so it made it double fun watching the craziness.

Oh yeah, I'll just leave this here.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-VvhNVV4/0/XL/IMG9614-XL.jpg

[billygoat333]

Looking great sir Mach!

[TheMainMan]

Glad to see an update, looking awesome as always!

[Mach]

Looking great sir Mach!

Thanks billygoat! for the compliment and the honorific ;)


Glad to see an update, looking awesome as always!

Thanks MainMan! Me too, I'm very glad to be back with an update.

[OvRiDe]

Wow .. That looks AWESOME but I am not biased or anything ;)

I can't wait to see this one completed!

[Mach]

Few operations in decorative metal work are more important than hard or silver-soldering. The process of brazing is quite similar; it is used for larger articles and the solder is an alloy of copper and zinc, called spelter.

Silver solder is made up of silver and brass in varying proportions according to the melting point desired. It can be obtained in wire or sheet form, the latter being most popular. The flux used for hard-soldering consists of powdered borax ground with enough water to make a creamy paste.

-Decorative Metal Work, Popular Science Monthly 1936


http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-kdN5tN5/0/X3/IMG9753-X3.jpg

----------
Thanks OvRiDe, yes me too. :)

I'm still alive and I have a little, but significant, progress to report. Remember the NB block? The one that leaked like a sieve after the silver and propane burner experiment. :wallbash:


http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-nSFqV6R/0/M/IMG7516-M.jpg

After those experiments failed, I went back to the drawing board. I read up on the making of mokume gane. If anyone is interested, the papers by James Binnion (http://www.mokume-gane.com/index.php?page=the_mokumegane_story) are an interesting read. What they told me was, it is possible to get repeatable results with metal fusing but the tools, like a hydraulic press and inconel molds were probably outside of my price range. Anyone want to buy a used kiln?

After a call to the local metal smith left me with no solution, I took a different tack.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-jbz8RLV/0/X3/Mokumebillet1-X3.png

One that is likely obvious to most in the HVAC field. I found this gentleman's website which helped quite a bit. He's local to Houston and sells a training video online. One order later, I had a plan as well as an idea where I was going wrong.
Yjyy51PQ2cw
Yes, the ad is cheesy but the video is actually solid.

I had been using a high silver content solder, the same stuff that is used by jewelers. It didn't flow as well as I would have liked. From the video, I was recommended this. Its a silver brazing alloy that is used for HVAC systems for joining dissimilar metals. Its 45% silver, 27% copper, 25% zinc, and 3% tin. On to the modding.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-mJD5cfF/0/X3/IMG9739-X3.jpg

The parts sanded and cleaned.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-rzsrNnt/0/X3/IMG9634-X3.jpg

The top was brazed first so I could still tap the threads. Not sure if this was necessary as the Bitspower threads are very short. I bolted the two corners together to hold the plates in place.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-PFxqLPb/0/X3/IMG9635-X3.jpg

Fluxing the inside of the block and heating it to a dull red with a propane/oxygen torch, the solder flowed quite well. You can see where the silver flowed between the plates on the outside edge.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-vfRkLJf/0/X3/IMG9638-X3.jpg

The holes in the block look pretty good with full flow on the silver. Here, they still need to be tapped. I was worried about annealing the brass (and copper) but it was a non-issue.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-GVCrdnL/0/X3/IMG9640-X3.jpg

I tapped them with my mini drill press (the Cheaps pattened method) by putting the 1/4" tap in the chuck, unlocking the head of the press so it was resting on the block, and turning the chuck by hand. It worked much better than hand tapping. The threads are straight and it was fast.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-P7VLHTs/0/X3/IMG9645-X3.jpg

The chamber will be fairly restrictive as you can see from the clearance. I'm winging it so we'll see how it works. Conventional wisdom says the performance would increase with pins or other turbulence building obstructions. The NB doesn't need a whole lot of cooling so it'll be a straight shot through the block.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-ZGGp8jR/0/X3/IMG9653-X3.jpg

The 1/8" copper was cut over-sized to be trimmed after.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-smvcrkV/0/X3/IMG9647-X3.jpg

The first time around, bolting the block together worked well so I drilled 2 more holes.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-QscQ7CK/0/X3/IMG9657-X3.jpg

And bolted each corner down. The holes were lined with brass tubing to keep the solder out of the screw holes. I should put whiteout to act as a solder resist but forgot it. Two of the screws had to be drilled out after.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-hSG3BkK/0/X3/IMG9656-X3.jpg

The final product after brazing. I fluxed the outside of the block this time and for good measure hit the threads again. It still needs a final polish but I wanted to make sure it held before I did that. As you can see there is some discoloration between the layers. Some pickle should clear that up.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-WkczFTH/0/X3/IMG9672-X3.jpg

The extra holes were filled with the button head hex screws that I'm using throughout the mod. They're decorative and were sanded flush on the bottom.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-LLPR3HP/0/X3/IMG9680-X3.jpg

How's it work? Well it holds pressure. Using my ghetto pressure tester ( a bicycle pump and a pan of water), the only air bubble (singular) that I saw was at the seal of the Bitspower plug. It was only one and it didn't move so the block gets a pass. :banana: Especially since,

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-pXNTMVg/0/X3/IMG9662-X3.jpg

I don't plan to run the loop at 40 psi. :)

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-ScgLZ5t/0/X3/IMG9663-X3.jpg

For the hold down screws, I silver soldered 3mm threaded rod to a button headed screw.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-3Pdct3r/0/X3/IMG9682-X3.jpg

When its mounted, the screw heads will look the same.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-LJg3zmg/0/X3/IMG9690-X3.jpg

I dropped it next to the CPU block to check it out. With more polishing and the sand blasted design in place, I can tick the box on the NB block and move on to the water block for the video card. But before doing that, the CPU block screws are bugging me.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-D3bCjzF/0/X3/IMG9727-X3.jpg

I've also wanted to experiment with 3d printing over at Shapeways.com

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-m8nZWGC/0/X3/handle-X3.jpg

Its a very cool way to make parts in metal or plastic. You draw them in Sketchup, export and upload the model and 14 days later.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-9SbQw6M/0/X3/handle2-X3.jpg

Your part shows up. Here's the part printed in bronze which can be soldered. ;)

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-cCDXW8V/0/X3/IMG9630-X3.jpg

I was very impressed by the detail.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-LP3396T/0/X3/IMG9629-X3.jpg

The part is about 3/4" high. Unfortunately, it was a little too big.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-LGCsV59/0/X3/IMG9628-X3.jpg

Here's prototype #2 in plastic impregnated with aluminum powder.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-nPkV92p/0/X3/IMG9746-X3.jpg

Side by side comparison with prototype #1. I need to tweak the design again to take the 3mm threaded insert.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-fGgnbvT/0/X3/IMG9751-X3.jpg

So that's all that I have for now. I've got mixed feeling about my progress. Not exactly how I wanted to put the blocks together but I'll take the results.

Next up is the GPU block. It'll be a little more challenging. I'll post some flame thrower pics next time around. :) More soon…

Thanks for staying tuned in and many thanks to my sponsors!

Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg

Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg

HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[AmEv]

I know that perfection can't be rushed, but I can't wait to see this baby finished, Mach!

[Mach]

Oh you have no idea how much I agree! I just need to convince my boss to give me about 6 weeks off. :)

[AmEv]

Oh, just ONLY six weeks..... lol

[Mach]

Yeah your right. I haven't even gotten to the monitor, mouse, and keyboard mod yet. Better ask for six and a half weeks. ;)

[blueonblack]

Singular work as always. You never disappoint. :up:

I have to say, I thought the printed bronze bits were excellent until I saw the photo with them sitting on the retention bracket. When their relative size and purpose came clear it was what has come to be known as "a Mach moment"; one of those things that literally made my eyes widen. The hand-forged brass blocks are obviously a signature component here and fit the spirit of the build as perfectly as anything I've seen, but somehow those tiny little handwheels at the corners of the bracket stand out more. They are the kind of mechanically-useless-but-aesthetically-perfect bits that make a truly unprecedented mod what it is.

Carry on, and unlike the others here (and yourself), I don't care if it ever gets done, if the updates keep coming. ;)

[Mach]

Thanks Blue! :D As long as your watching, I'll keep the updates coming.

Check out this video. How wild is this?
i6Px6RSL9Ac

[TheMainMan]

That's pretty awesome! I love "How it's made", so many cool ways of doing things.

[blueonblack]

That's pretty awesome! I love "How it's made", so many cool ways of doing things.

Me too! They recently got the whole series on Netflix. I've got the streaming option, so I can watch any of them any time I want. My wife was... less than pleased. :)

[msmrx57]

Thanks Blue! :D As long as your watching, I'll keep the updates coming.

We're always watching. This build is too awesome not to. :up:


That's pretty awesome! I love "How it's made", so many cool ways of doing things.


Me too! They recently got the whole series on Netflix. I've got the streaming option, so I can watch any of them any time I want. My wife was... less than pleased. :)

Unfotunately I can't justify Netflix but I may "borrow" my parents account. Difference being my wife like those kind of shows almost more than I do.

[TheMainMan]

Netflix is terrible up hear, it always pains me to hear what you can get in the States. There's only one plan and unless you're a fan of off-beat, otherwise hard to find documentaries, it's just not worth it in my opinion. My roommate wanted to get it so we signed up for a unlimited cap plan then found out how crappy it was. At least I can watch as many linked videos as people can post in their worklogs :) I love large picture updates too!

[DarkScorpion]

To clarify Mokumé-Gane is not a specific metal but a technique, Mokumé can be made with karated gold, fine silver, sterling silver, copper, brass, and many other metals.

I work with this stuff on an almost daily basis and I love it, while I'm not sure as to the capabilities of it for blocks and such it is perfect for accents and decoration (though I would love to see a copper/brass mokume case, not really cost effective to use precious metals on that massive a piece. Pricing wise a 1"x3" piece of silver/copper just this last week from Rio Grande (http://riogrande.com) was $101USD)

The part that I love the most is the patterning,using cutting burs, ball burs and a wide variety of other tools you can create intricate designs on the surface of the metal, then you roll it flat to create a level surface that you can then make into jewelry or whatever you want, another interesting pattern is if you take a long rectangle and twist it then cut it down the center you get a nice star pattern(ill see if I can get a photo of this when I'm at the shop).

Here are a few of my own patterns that I've created recently.

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa380/scrounger11/2011-11-22_22-58-32_863.jpg

http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa380/scrounger11/2011-11-01_21-17-16_665.jpg

Both of these are silver and copper, in the second photo I put a patina on the copper (by the way, a good brown to black patina (depending on how long you leave it on) can be achived using baldwins patina)

For anyone interested in more on mokume you need to buy the book, 'Mokumé-Gane A Comprehensive Study' by a guy named Steve Midgett, this book will tell you how to prepare, fuse and pattern your mokume, however there were so few books printed that they run about $375-425 on amazon (shesh, when they first came out they sold for $30), One of the guest authors is a guy named Bob Coogan one of the kindest gentelmen you will ever meet, he teaches metals at the appalachian center for craft and he taught the guy who taught me, (not to say I don't know Mr. Coogan)

Anyway, if you guys have any interest in this stuff let me know and ill create a seperate post where I can show my stuff.

[d_stilgar]

Very cool stuff. You should definitely post your other work.

[billygoat333]

^^ I am with him. Let's see it!

[Mach]

Thanks for the explanation DarkScorpion. I too would like to see your work.

[AmEv]

Has this been front-page-featured yet?

[Mach]

Yes but it has been going on so long that its been buried :) Jon did a very nice feature on it about a year ago.

[AmEv]

I know Mr. Owen did a review on his blog about a year ago, too.

[Mach]

For men of consequence a mound should be raised to their memory, and for all other warriors who had been distinguished for manhood a standing stone, a custom that remained long after Odin's time.
—The Ynglinga saga

Inscriped with runic script (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Runic_alphabet), runestones are monuments erected to mark the death of a warrior or great king. Most were erected between 950-1,100 CE with over 3,000 runestones found scattered across Scandinavia. The highest concentration can be found in Sweden but the Norsemen seeded runestones wherever they went. From the Black Sea to the Isle of Man, the vikings literally made their mark on history.
In recent times, discovery of runestones and runic inscriptions in North America have caused laymen and scholars alike to debate whether the Vikings discovered America before Christopher Columbus.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-kxq6sp3/0/L/U240LingsbergcWikimediacommons-L.jpg

----------

Picking up where we left off, so the block I showed last time around developed some funky corrosion that I suspect is the pickle that got in between the layers. Not sure if that means that the join wasn't 100% but why chance it, eh?
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-rb4rXfV/0/X2/IMG9883-X2.jpg
To the mod-cave….
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-rJQ7z33/0/X2/IMG9761-X2.jpg
This time instead of two sides bolted down, let's try all four.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-c54TdXj/0/X2/IMG9766-X2.jpg
Bolted down and ready for some night soldering. The more observant may notices that this time the block is one layer thicker (obSpinalTap: this one is one louder). The white paint on the corners is paper correction fluid or White-out. It acts as a solder resist so the solder doesn't flow into the screw holes.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-h9Z39nD/0/X2/IMG8513-X2.jpg
Warming the block up on a turntable fire brick mounted firebrick.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-CdfxfDj/0/X2/IMG8521-X2.jpg
More heat
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-CS7ZTnw/0/X2/IMG8523-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-S4wqg6s/0/X2/IMG8524-X2.jpg
Getting there
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-KKV8Rfn/0/X2/IMG8525-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-SFxBK6j/0/X2/IMG9783-X2.jpg
Solder goes in. I'm using an easy flow silver solder this time.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-nhHjJsF/0/X2/IMG8529-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-7x3Vq3D/0/X2/IMG9788-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-LHnGwBj/0/X2/IMG9791-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-cpggCM2/0/X2/IMG9789-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-6fzrJnj/0/X2/IMG9798-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-WxsPdM7/0/X2/IMG9799-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-m4ccNpq/0/X2/IMG9800-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-DTH7mfL/0/X2/IMG9792-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-FhWKrLx/0/X2/IMG9793-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-WhSPmLT/0/X2/IMG9794-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-NBNP5fW/0/X2/IMG8532-X2.jpg
Solder was applied inside and out of the block.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-Fmg6ntX/0/X2/IMG8533-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-NM3nFbn/0/X2/IMG8541-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-7RWQ3xN/0/X2/IMG8535-X2.jpg
You can see the silver solder wicking nicely up the side of the block.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-kgR9Fv3/0/X2/IMG8536-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-KVtFJtV/0/X2/IMG9802-X2.jpg
The solder (65% silver) flows at 1325F (718C). I'm guessing from color that I may have spiked over that.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-4RdSwFB/0/X2/IMG8546-X2.jpg
The color slowly fading.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-JG5ZsZW/0/X2/IMG9804-X2.jpg
Once cooled, drilling with a 11.8mm bit.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-96273WL/0/X2/IMG9814-X2.jpg
Then cutting the threads with a G1/4" tap. With the tap in the drill press chuck, I release the head and rest the tap on the brass.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-36zZk3D/0/X2/IMG9821-X2.jpg
Using a pipe wrench, I turn the drill chuck by hand.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-8dGD3fX/0/X2/IMG9828-X2.jpg
Easy threads. At this point, imagine if you will :), a lot more soldering in my shed during a torrential rain storm so no camera and no pics.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-3Jb46L5/0/X2/IMG9830-X2.jpg
But through the magic of technology, NB block V3. Can you see the layers?
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-GrVjvLb/0/X2/IMG9856-X2.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-HWfrDmG/0/X2/IMG9867-X2.jpg
Next up sand blasting, hopefully
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-MW6rRS3/0/X2/IMG9869-X2.jpg
Cheescake shot
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-q4992pL/0/X2/IMG9845-X2.jpg
For next time….
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-Ld9TbTS/0/X2/IMG9870-X2.jpg

Thanks for looking and many thanks to my sponsors!

Bitspower
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/StVZkMGEeYI/AAAAAAAAHTU/23hcdZtWjhM/s640/BP.jpg

Galaxy
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/S5L3wxSKiKI/AAAAAAAAJ14/80TKBqAEANw/s640/logo.jpg

HardwareLabs
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_UdQdiSb7gT4/SswnZW1k27I/AAAAAAAAHLM/ft8eSONNwBM/s640/HWLABS.jpg

[billygoat333]

This is so epic. I love it.

[DarkScorpion]

Very nice,

Just something to remember, hard solder (compaired to soft lead solder) flows to where it is the hottest, so if you have areas that have slightly lower temps solder might not flow there (from your pics it looked pretty even so I think your fine) though silver solder is a bit more forgiving than gold solder.

DS

[Mach]

Merry Christmas! No update but thought you might like to see a side project.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-C7sKhk4/0/X3/IMG9895-X3.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-C6v7xFL/0/X3/IMG9920-X3.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-GxHds3M/0/X3/IMG9894-X3.jpg

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-2tpj8pN/0/X3/IMG9892-X3.jpg

[AmEv]

I outta just +rep every post you have in this thread now....

[xr4man]

Having issues adding Rep with the touchscreen. So just imagine that I actually +rep-ed you.

[smilinsniper]

Sorry for the massive necro but what ever happened to this project/Mach as i would really love to see more of his work and the completion of this work of art :D

Oh and i am a MASSIVE Bioshock fan hence the necro of this thread in particular.

[Mach]

Everything starts and ends somewhere. I can't speak to this mod's end so let's talk about where it started....an origins update if you will. As is obvious by now, this mod finds its origin in Bioshock, more specifically in the Hephaestus workshops. If you don't know the game, the best artisans in the world worked there building the undersea city of Rapture.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-xwJrJtP/0/X2/Hephaestus_Map%5B1%5D-X2.png
In the story, Andrew Ryan hired the best craftsmen to build his city using his vast wealth. So the question is, what would they build and how would they make their mark on what they built? Maybe something like this....

The CPU and the NB water blocks are complete including the mounting hardware and engraving.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-RDMFvMK/0/XL/IMG_0872-XL.jpg

For reference, this is what the blocks looked like before engraving.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-D3bCjzF/0/XL/IMG_9727-XL.jpg

The engraving includes the Ryan Industries logo, sunburst, and the workshop where it might have been made.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-9mnXCW2/0/XL/IMG_0874-2-XL.jpg

The logo is one found in the Art of Bioshock book. The engravings were done using a vinyl resist, weeded using laser etching, and then sand blasted.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-5V444qh/0/L/Ryan_industries%5B1%5D-L.jpg

The mounting hardware screw heads were 3D printed out of stainless steel power infused with bronze. I found out how hard stainless is to drill using my drill press. I was able to drill them but I over heated them and lost the color on the ones I tried.

http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-NRGkWvB/0/XL/IMG_0874-3-XL.jpg
If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer. The hammer in this instance was a mini-lathe...drilled like butter. The holes were needed to clear the springs and the screws. The screws are threaded brass rod attached to the handles using silver solder.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-c9vTw4V/0/XL/IMG_0906-XL.jpg

Here's the NB prototype. The engraving on the right was sand blasted; the one on the left was done with a mini end mill. I thought I had a better solution instead of sand blasting or acid etching for a deeper engraving.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-d4KmxX4/0/XL/Mod-0911-XL.jpg

The sunburst design is repeated on different parts of the mod. Here's the fan cover with a similar design
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-tJnNpGk/0/XL/IMG_6453-XL.jpg

The final block was sandblasted instead of engraved. I was working with a local shop to do the engraving trying to catch up between business trips. The operator wasn't paying attention and crashed the head into the top. I wound up milling the incomplete engraving off using Techshop's Tormach mill, then soldering the divot using brass color match solder. Rinse and repeat on vinyl, laser, and sand blast. Not as deep as I wanted but its done right.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-Jt98XQt/0/XL/IMG_0874-XL.jpg

Its too bad because the mill engraving looks amazing.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-ztftwZd/0/XL/IMG_0868-XL.jpg

Very deep and precise.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-dk4R73N/0/XL/IMG_0895-XL.jpg

The reservoir on the back of the case also got the engraving treatment.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-rgV8Dv6/0/XL/IMG_0905-XL.jpg

At least the knob did via sand blasting.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-nGtSpTK/3/XL/IMG_9942-XL.jpg

Filled in with black enamel.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-ShHkpx4/0/XL/IMG_0886-XL.jpg

I wasn't happy with how the meter was mounted. It stuck too far into the case and didn't look right.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-DN7FKTr/0/XL/IMG_9519-XL.jpg

I re-did the mount and added a flange with the paint patina. Again the reference to Hephaestus but this time, a different wokshop - Hephaetus Electrical Works.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-knXks7M/0/XL/Mod-0916-XL.jpg

From the front, note the same logo and Hephaetus reference.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-fqqZPF6/0/XL/Mod-0913-XL.jpg

Flush mounting on the inside with the meter and LED wires sleeved.
http://retroforge.smugmug.com/Mods/Berserker/Case/i-T4ZKhwn/0/XL/Mod-0918-XL.jpg

And that's the progress to date. I'm working on the nixie's off and on but not so much that I'd call it "progress".

So what have I been doing instead of modding? Working mostly so the spare time is at a premium. I've had a job change or two since the last update.

What spare time I've had in the last year went to building a new workshop, and I fell down the rabbit hole of Austin Techshop. That's where I'm using the laser cutters, mills, and lathes. On the plus side, I now have access to a wide range of tools that I never had before.

The downside is that the projects have multiplied. I'm not sure when this will reach an end. I'd like to promise it will be soon but time flies as the saying goes. Looking at the date stamps on the photos, I've got no idea where its flown. I do stop by from time to time to check out the state of modding. TBCS was my own modding origin so I'll be back when I have something else to show.

[smilinsniper]

Simply amazing!

So nice to see more progress on this project :D

Keep up the good work Mach and look forward to your other projects if and when you post them here :D

[OvRiDe]

Its so good to hear from you Mach, and I am so glad to see this project had not been scrapped. I have always admired your attention to the little details, and this mod is just chocked full of them. Thanks for the update!

[jdbnsn]

Mach!!! I have missed following your cryptic and mesmerizing mods! BG is looking amazing, thanks for sharing!

-Jon

[TheMainMan]

Good to hear you're still working on this! This mod is so incredible that I, for one, don't mind waiting as patiently as I can for more updates. Take your time, the results speak for themselves!

[d_stilgar]

Yeah! Progress! Great to see more work on this. Can't wait to see it finished.

[Mach]

Simply amazing!


Its so good to hear from you Mach, and I am so glad to see this project had not been scrapped. I have always admired your attention to the little details, and this mod is just chocked full of them. Thanks for the update!


Good to hear you're still working on this! This mod is so incredible that I, for one, don't mind waiting as patiently as I can for more updates. Take your time, the results speak for themselves!


Yeah! Progress! Great to see more work on this. Can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks gentlemen! I'll post up more progress when it happens.

[Stonerboy779]

So I can have this when it is done, right?