How much power are you REALLY using?

[x88x]

So, I just recently acquired a Kill-a-Watt power meter, and it has been quite illuminating. I hooked it up between my main PC (the one in my profile) and its UPS, and at max power (ie, full CPU load on all 4 cores and full GPU load), I am using a grand total of...

*drum role*

... 250W.

Yup, that's right. A C2Q 9450 and GTX260 consume all of 250 Watts at peak power consumption.

This came as nice surprise to me, as I was expecting to be running a little closer to my PSU's max (500W sustained, 550W peak). Now turning to two online PSU calculators, I was glad to discover that my trust in outervision was well placed.

outervision (http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine): 288W
Newegg (http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html): 501W

So the next time someone tells you that you need that 1kW PSU, stop and think about it for a minute. It's almost certain that you don't.


Anyone have actual readings for their own systems?

[d_stilgar]

I'm probably going to get a UPS and kill a watt soon. Three rooms in my house are all on one breaker. My room with the monitor and PC, the bedroom with a space heater, and the bathroom that features a space heater thing on the wall near the ceiling, and at least once a day has a hair dryer plugged in. Without the hair dryer or bathroom heater on, my computer and two space heaters will flip the breaker. It's totally nuts. What did they wire this place with, steel wool threads? I don't see how we can consistently flip the breaker like this.

Let me know if you find a killer deal on a good UPS and/or a kill a watt.

I find outervision to be the best calculator around. That said, It's good to have at least 10% extra in a PSU and something very high quality. 1000W of garbage power is never going to cut it.

[x88x]

You can pick up a Kill-a-Watt for $20 on Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882715001&Tpk=kill-a-watt).

As for a UPS, it depends on how much power your PC pulls (ironic, that :P ). Personally I recommend APC; they make high quality products and every unit is individually tested before being shipped from the factory, and the results of the tests are included with the UPS (needless to say, they're always all passed; if they didn't pass, the unit wouldn't have made it out of the factory). I'm running my system on an APC Back-UPS ES 650 that I picked up at MicroCenter for $80; a little expensive, but definitely worth it.

[Trace]

Wello, I have a 580Watt psu and it says I need 638 Watts @ 100% load with my current OC.
I'm basically at 100% load right now folding, and it's almost 100% rock stable.

I'll have to put the Kill-A-Watt on it after the folding contest is over and let you guys know the draw

[Luke122]

I second the vote for APC UPS's... that's all I ever used as a Sysadmin, and they were 100% reliable. (Except for the time the server went down... faulty USB port [on the server] was the culprit there.)

As far as the kill-a-watt goes, if anyone has one, try it out on your bigscreen tv. Prepare to be shocked.. well, figuratively. My 37" Sharp LC37D43U draws 185 watts.. and it's on pretty much all the time. :(

[mDust]

Third for APC. Mine is a bit old now and should probably be replaced, but I love it. I have my alarm clock plugged into it so when the power goes out my alarm doesn't turn off. After shutting down my computer during a power outage, I drag it out into the living room and plug some lamps (with CF bulbs) into it. I once had some friends come over during a 6 hour blackout and we played board and card games and hung out in the precious light...dozens of people knocked on my apartment door to ask how I still had power. After a while we all just looked at them with confused expressions and told them we didn't know the power went out. (I love confusing the hell out of people.:banana:)
Anyway, I would recommend having a PSU with 30-50% headroom for efficiency and upgrade room. I have a 1000W X3 that has about 70% headroom because I never ended up buying the graphics cards that I was planning on getting. Had I done so, it would have been 40-50% headroom which is still overkill...but it's running cool, quiet and stable and will do so for many years to come. So depending on the installed hardware, a 1000W PSU is almost never necessary, but it could be wise.

Space heaters can draw a massive amount of power. Any space heater will make a big screen TV look battery operated.
185W isn't bad for a TV...just be glad you don't have a CRT.

.185KW * .08[cents/KWh] * 24[hours] * 30[days] = $10.66/mo if you leave it on 24/7...and if you do, shame on you!:D
.185 * .08 * 16 * 30 = $7.10/mo if you sleep 8 hours a night with the TV off but do nothing but watch TV all day.
.185 * .08 * 6 * 30 = $2.66/mo if you watch for 6 hours a day, which is fairly average but still too much IMO.
.235 * .0835 * 1 * 30 = $0.58/mo if you're like me and watch less than an hour a day. I consume energy in other ways though...

The price/KWh is assumed to be $.08 which is fairly average for the continental US...forget about NY and HI...if you live in either of those states, then I'm sorry.
Climate control is the #1 energy hog (by a long shot) on everyone's utility bill. Not that 200 items drawing 5W each is good though either.

[Spawn-Inc]

So, I just recently acquired a Kill-a-Watt power meter, and it has been quite illuminating. I hooked it up between my main PC (the one in my profile) and its UPS, and at max power (ie, full CPU load on all 4 cores and full GPU load), I am using a grand total of...

*drum role*

... 250W.

Yup, that's right. A C2Q 9450 and GTX260 consume all of 250 Watts at peak power consumption.

This came as nice surprise to me, as I was expecting to be running a little closer to my PSU's max (500W sustained, 550W peak). Now turning to two online PSU calculators, I was glad to discover that my trust in outervision was well placed.

outervision (http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine): 288W
Newegg (http://educations.newegg.com/tool/psucalc/index.html): 501W

So the next time someone tells you that you need that 1kW PSU, stop and think about it for a minute. It's almost certain that you don't.


Anyone have actual readings for their own systems?

i have a q6600 and 9800GTX with 18 fans and 2 pumps pulling 350watts.

BUT i have read that it pulls more then it says if your power supply has active pfc it gives meters like the kilawatt incorrect readings.

[Trace]

Ok, time to plug mine in. I'll be back with a reading in a moment

Drumroll Please:

Q6600 @ 3.33Ghz 1.46vCore
2 3870x2's with 3 cores 100% load
CPU 100% load and a couple of fans, waterpump, etc
all from a 580(i think) PSU
is drawing 652watts

[x88x]

BUT i have read that it pulls more then it says if your power supply has active pfc it gives meters like the kilawatt incorrect readings.

Interesting. I wonder how much that throws it off...

[Spawn-Inc]

with your system and mine i don't believe it pulls that little so something is going on.

[Trace]

Yeah, thats wayy too low

[Twigsoffury]

Run your PSU at 220v and you'll halve your operating amps. Ought to be cheaper to run at 220v vs 110v. (240/120v)

[Trace]

Wish I had an outlet

[crenn]

Run your PSU at 220v and you'll halve your operating amps. Ought to be cheaper to run at 220v vs 110v. (240/120v)
Yes, change your windings so that the 12v rail is now 24v...

[Twigsoffury]

Yes, change your windings so that the 12v rail is now 24v...

lol you know most PSU's have that handy voltage switch on the back

http://i48.tinypic.com/2s6k114.jpg

D'ohh

[x88x]

lol you know most PSU's have that handy voltage switch on the back

http://i48.tinypic.com/2s6k114.jpg

D'ohh

Actually, any more only really cheap PSUs have a physical switch; most are smart enough to switch internally if they have 240V coming in, so don't need a physical switch.

[Twigsoffury]

Actually, any more only really cheap PSUs have a physical switch; most are smart enough to switch internally if they have 240V coming in, so don't need a physical switch.

yea, Those came about on the Enermax Noisetaker, most have adapted that switch by now.

lol i've been moddin' power supplies since...damn well at least before having a gaming computer was cool.
http://i46.tinypic.com/14e9g1s.jpg

i'll give you 5$ if you can figure out what that does/What it was for.

[edit]
well i guess everyone gives up.

Was to run two Voodoo2 FX banshee's in Sli (yea Sli is that old foo') You used to use a Floppy cable to bridge the cards... kick ass part was you could do it in PCI slots

man i remember 1024x768 being a amazing resolution LOL.