Stealth With alternate eject button

[diluzio91]

I want to stealth a DVD drive, and when doing so i want to route the eject switch to the reset switch on my case. is this possible to do? can anyone give me a hint as to how?

[LiTHiUM0XiD3]

pop off your faceplate... clip your reset switch so it has no plug on the end, disassemble the DVD drive, solder reset switch leads directly to the switch that opens drive and reassemble it all and give it a shot... with the switch it doesnt matter which post goes to which wire.... aslong as it closes the circuit... and doesnt short out
i hope ive been helpful ive dont it b4... so i know it looks good lol :)

[diluzio91]

awesome! i know ive been asking a ton of questions lately, but its mainly getting everything ready for my summer mod... I'm one of those pesky planner types/ lives in a dorm room so has 4 months to fret out every detail before he does anything

[Luke122]

Check out my build, "Throttle Junkie" for an example of this. I did the exact thing with a Temjin TJ07 case and a Pioneer DVDRW.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showpost.php?p=172336&postcount=38

[diluzio91]

lol, thats where i got the idea from. thanks luke

[Luke122]

Haha, no problem. :D Stealthing looks so much cooler than a mismatched faceplate... all that nice aluminum, and I had a black drive sticking out like a sore thumb. No thanks!

As Lithium said, when you take the optical drive apart, there's very visible, and very simple solder points for the eject button and the LED. The button I used was a regular momentary switch from an old case, I believe it was originally a reset button. :)

[d_stilgar]

Your button will likely have four contact points. Make sure you solder the leads diagonally, either bottom left corner for one lead and top right for the other, or vice versa. It's just a guaranteed way to know that you aren't connecting leads to the same side of the circuit.

[SXRguyinMA]

all this talk has got me wanting to do it on my armor redux mod i'm working on currently. I bought a new SATA lightscribe drive to replace my 2 standard IDE burners, so I may do this while I have the drive unisntalled :D

[diluzio91]

Your button will likely have four contact points. Make sure you solder the leads diagonally, either bottom left corner for one lead and top right for the other, or vice versa. It's just a guaranteed way to know that you aren't connecting leads to the same side of the circuit.

im not too good with the soldering side of things, anyone want to draw up a diagram? :whistler:

[diluzio91]

yeah, the stealthing is going to be on a coolermaster 690, the drive will be in the bottom of the 4 bays, and the fan controller will be stealthed in the top bay, and that should leave just enough room for a 120mm blue LED fan. inbetween. on an untrelated note... what is a good quality LED fan that is quiet... i have some blue rosewills and they are kind of noisy unless i throttle them down to about 50% speed. also, i would like to pay less than $10 per fan. mainly for budget (hey, college is expensive) as there will be 3 being put in.

[d_stilgar]

http://news.thomasnet.com/images/large/818/818723.jpg

That image above is of switches that will be similar to what you'll find in your drive. You will solder one wire to one corner as an extension. To know where to solder the other lead just go to the opposite corner. This guarantees that you don't solder the leads to the same side of the switch, which would result in the circuit remaining open even if the button is depressed.

Let me try this:

1 2
1 2

1 1
2 2

Your button will be like one of the above situations, and it may be hard to know which. One side of the switch is already connected, but you don't know if it is oriented horizontally or vertically, and it can be hard to figure out sometimes. However, if you just connect the leads to opposite corners then you guarantee that you cross the to other side of the switch.

Does that make sense? I could draw it out but don't want to haha.

[diluzio91]

yeah, that makes sense, the number diagrams helped alot. lol.... is this somehting that an inexperienced solderer can attempt without large plumes of smoke coming from his computer when he turns it on? or should i practice on say, an old piece of PCB that i have laying around first?

[Luke122]

It never hurts to practice first!

[TheMainMan]

I've been happy with the noise coming out of the stock Cooler Master blue LED fan that came in both CM690s. I've seen retail versions out now though only in the last year or so. Plus it's a piece of cake to change the 3mm blue LEDs if you decide you want a different colour.