What do you guys think

[diluzio91]

So ive been mulling again... and i finally have a list of the stuff for my new computer... Let me know what you think...

Reservoir 31.95
http://www.dangerden.com/store/danger-den-dual-5-1-4-bay-reservoir.html

GPU Block 51.95
http://www.dangerden.com/store/maze5-gpu-block.html

Mobo 79.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131398

Processor 150.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103809

Graphics 159.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102873

RAM 129.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220431

PSU 104.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371026

SSD 109.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227393

HDD 59.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148395

CPU Block 34.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708019

Chip Block 36.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708021

Pump 56.95
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7505/ex-pmp-64/Danger_Den_DD-CPX_Pro_12V_3_Pin_Powered_Pump_-_237_GPH_DD-CPX_Pro.html?tl=g30c107s155

Radiator 48.95
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4085/ex-rad-86/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_240_X-Flow_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s160

Fittings x12 95.88
http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-G1-4-Matte-Black-Compression-Fitting-1-2-ID-3-4-OD-Tube-BP-MBCPF-CC5-pr-4581.html

Fans x 2 19.96
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103022
Fan Controller 14.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998808

Case 69.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119137&cm_re=cooler_master_690-_-11-119-137-_-Product

Tubing x11 28.5
http://www.jab-tech.com/Tygon-R-3603-1-2-ID-3-4-OD-Chemical-Tubing-pr-3874.html

Radiator 48.95
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/4083/ex-rad-84/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_240_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s160

Lemmie know what you think... the rads are at the absolute top of my budget... sorry guys.... other than that my budget is 1500... including modding supplies and S&H

[Spawn-Inc]

ok so, i will comment on the water cooling side only as i know it. though you will enjoy your vertex, got the 60gb one and love it.

good cpu block for a low budget.

i would change out the pump and res for these 2.

Swiftech MCP355 (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swiftechmcp355.html) with XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacreforlad.html)
you will also save on fittings with this setup as you only need 2 instead of 4.



it will cost a bit more, but well worth it. if budget is a bit deal, change out the pricey tygon tubing for some masterkleer tubing. 4.90 for 10 feet. i've been using the same tubing for a year now and it's still looking great.

ditch both rads in favour of cheaper and better performing swiftech MCR220's
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR-220-Radiator-Black-pr-3199.html

does your chip set really need cooling?

i would change out the maze 5 for the swiftech mcw60 as it's just as good if not better and costs a little bit less.
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCW60-R-VGA-cooler-Rev-2-pr-4271.html


you need at least 4 fans for 2x double 120mm rads. since your getting a fan controller then get some high speed yate loons for 3.95 a piece.
Yate loon high Speed (http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SH-12-High-Speed-pr-3771.html)


think that covers your water cooling.

[x88x]

Looks good to me. I'm not familiar with Swiftech's rads, so I can't comment on that, but regarding cooling the NB, if you're going to be using the onboard video at all, I would highly recommend it. If not, then you probably don't need it. Before I added my NB (GF9400, probably not a whole lot more power draw under full use) into my WC loop, it would routinely hit 80C...at which point my system would bluescreen.. :facepalm: Now, in the loop, it hasn't topped 40C. However, before I started using the onboard video for anything, it would sit in the low 50s without any issue.

I'm really happy with the Enzotech block that I have. Its build quality is great.

For the GPU, you'll need to get heatspreaders for the rest of the chips on the board.

I would second the upgrade to a 60GB Vertex. It will give you a lot more breathing room with your OS and programs. Also, I would recommend going up to the 1TB Samsung F3 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185). It performs better than the 500GB 7200.12 (and most if not all platter HDDs on the market today) and doubles your capacity for just $35 more.

[diluzio91]

Reservoir 39.95
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacreforlad.html

GPU Block 39.95
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCW60-R-VGA-cooler-Rev-2-pr-4271.html

Mobo 79.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131398

Processor 150.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103809

Graphics 159.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102873

RAM 129.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820220431

PSU 104.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371026

SSD 204.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227394&cm_re=ocz_ssd-_-20-227-394-_-Product

HDD 89.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185

CPU Block 34.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708019

Chip Block 36.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708021

Pump 66.95
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swiftechmcp355.html

Radiator x2 81.9
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR-220-Radiator-Black-pr-3199.html

Fittings x10 79.90
http://www.jab-tech.com/Bitspower-G1-4-Matte-Black-Compression-Fitting-1-2-ID-3-4-
OD-Tube-BP-MBCPF-CC5-pr-4581.html

Fans x 2 19.96
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103022

Fan Controller 14.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998808

Case 69.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119137&cm_re=cooler_master_690-_-11-119-137-_-Product

Tubing x11 28.5
http://www.jab-tech.com/Tygon-R-3603-1-2-ID-3-4-OD-Chemical-Tubing-pr-3874.html

Fans x4 13.2
http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SH-12-High-Speed-pr-3771.html

VGA ram sink 10.89
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708008

Total 1459.09

At first i was really confused by the pump res combo.. then it suddenly made sense. lol... thats a cool little res!

[x88x]

The fan controller you have is a 4-channel, so that means you can only control the speeds of 4 of the fans (unless you pair up some fans), so depending on your plans that might be something to think about.

Other than that it looks good. I did just think of a couple more suggestions though. :P

I would highly recommend adding in a T-junction somewhere, feeding to a fillport (http://www.dangerden.com/store/danger-den-fillport.html). This makes the process of filling and topping off (and if you place it correctly, draining) the loop worlds easier.

Another thought; you might want to step down to 3/8" ID tubing. It'll be slightly cheaper, bend tighter, and you won't have to worry about converters for the connection to the pump (those are 3/8" barbs on the pump, btw). I got this same advice when I was doing my first WC loop, and according to everyone I've talked to about it, you won't get any better performance with 1/2" ID tubing than 3/8" and it's harder to work with.

Oh, also, I checked prices just now, and if I were you, I would upgrade to the Phenom II x4 955 BE (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808). $9 more, and it's definitely worth that. :D

Also, again, just checking prices/etc now, I would get one of these RAM kits (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010170147%201052129233%201052315794%20105252696 7&bop=And&ShowDeactivatedMark=False) instead. Both are Mushkin, both are DDR3-1600, and both have better timings than the Patriot sticks. I think the only difference between the two is the heatspreaders, so personally I would get the Redline. Again, a little more expensive, but you get what you pay for, and I think you the performance difference would definitely be worth the additional $20.

EDIT:
Holy crap! If you can order within the next ~61 hours, definitely get this:
60GB OCZ Vertex Turbo: $200 with $30 MIR (ie, $170 after MIR); normally $300 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227469&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL032610&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL032610-_-EMC-032610-Index-_-SolidStateDisk-_-20227469-LE1C)
Compared to the normal Vertex:
Vertex : Vertex Turbo
Sequential Access - Read: 230 MBps : 240 MBps
Sequential Access - Write: 135 MBps : 145 MBps
Sustained Write: 70 MBps : 100 MBps

[diluzio91]

I saw the bbe, but i wanted to stick with the 95W. I read that it produces less heat and overclocks better because of the lower power draw, anyone know about that?

[x88x]

Ah, I didn't notice the difference in power consumption. As for overclocking, I know historically the Black Edition chips have had unlocked multipliers (ie, you can change the multiplier), which made them much better for overclocking. IDK if that's true with the Phenom II's, but since there is a BE, I would guess so. Here's a comparison of the two chips (http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/processors/AMD_Phenom_II_X4_955_1.html). (disclaimer: I haven't actually read it, but I trust the source)

[diluzio91]

also, the coolermaster fans will be more for looks, as the fans are super quiet at max speed ( i put a pair in a friends antec 900) but they dont push alot of air... so im thinking ill do a push pull ( i think thats what its called, fans on both sides) and have the leds running at full speed, and just turn up the yate loons when needed. :D

[diluzio91]

Ah, I didn't notice the difference in power consumption. As for overclocking, I know historically the Black Edition chips have had unlocked multipliers (ie, you can change the multiplier), which made them much better for overclocking. IDK if that's true with the Phenom II's, but since there is a BE, I would guess so. Here's a comparison of the two chips (http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/processors/AMD_Phenom_II_X4_955_1.html). (disclaimer: I haven't actually read it, but I trust the source)

I have a bbe on my DC right now, and ive found it overclocks much better, higher, and more stable without using the multiplier... lol (cooler too)

[diluzio91]

EDIT:
Holy crap! If you can order within the next ~61 hours, definitely get this:
60GB OCZ Vertex Turbo: $200 with $30 MIR (ie, $170 after MIR); normally $300 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227469&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL032610&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL032610-_-EMC-032610-Index-_-SolidStateDisk-_-20227469-LE1C)
Compared to the normal Vertex:
Vertex : Vertex Turbo
Sequential Access - Read: 230 MBps : 240 MBps
Sequential Access - Write: 135 MBps : 145 MBps
Sustained Write: 70 MBps : 100 MBps

I wish... ill be building this when i save up over summer... The internals may change, but the case and WC loop will probably stay the same... unless intel offers their top of the line series for 160 ish... riiiight

[Spawn-Inc]

I would highly recommend adding in a T-junction somewhere, feeding to a fillport (http://www.dangerden.com/store/danger-den-fillport.html). This makes the process of filling and topping off (and if you place it correctly, draining) the loop worlds easier.

Another thought; you might want to step down to 3/8" ID tubing. It'll be slightly cheaper, bend tighter, and you won't have to worry about converters for the connection to the pump (those are 3/8" barbs on the pump, btw). I got this same advice when I was doing my first WC loop, and according to everyone I've talked to about it, you won't get any better performance with 1/2" ID tubing than 3/8" and it's harder to work with.


why go with a T line when you have a res? though i do agree it will make draining easier.

the pump will not be 3/8 once the stock top is replaced with the res top.

[x88x]

Ah, I missed that the res replaces both inlet and outlet. Great then.

Correct me if I'm wrong though, but it appears that the res only has the two openings, ie, nowhere to hook up a dedicated fill line.

[Spawn-Inc]

Ah, I missed that the res replaces both inlet and outlet. Great then.

Correct me if I'm wrong though, but it appears that the res only has the two openings, ie, nowhere to hook up a dedicated fill line.

there is a larger cap on the top is for filling. see here (http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/images/large/xspc-ddc-res-l.jpg).

[x88x]

Ah, ok; I couldn't see that from the other shots of it. Is that a G1/4 threaded socket or what?

[Spawn-Inc]

no, their own size, it's larger. but they do sell an adaptor to change to G1/4"

http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-M20x1.5mm-to-G1-4-fillcap-adapter-pr-4205.html

[diluzio91]

Color me confusedd.... are there things i should be adding or subtracting from the list?

[Spawn-Inc]

not that i can see you need a biocide, pt nuke or a silver kill coil work wonders. just fill with distilled water and your set.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html

Silver Strip (http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html)


also, have a good read through of the following guides.

http://overclockerstech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:water-cooling-guide-for-beginners&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=88

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631501 - though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.

[x88x]

Color me confusedd.... are there things i should be adding or subtracting from the list?

That depends on what you want to do. Basically, if you want to have a dedicated fill-line going up from the res to a fillport (I would highly recommend this, after not having one on my first loop...makes it really hard to fill the loop if you don't have one), you'll need to get the adapter that Spawn linked, and connect a fitting of whatever tubing size you want to use to that adapter (G1/4 is the standard thread size for watercooling fittings), then run a line from there up to a fillport on or near the top of the case. Basically, this would make it a lot easier to fill the loop initially as well as topping it off as the fluid saturates the radiators.

[diluzio91]

alrught... continuing with my awesome loop designs

black = rad
red = block
yellow = tubing
blue = pumpres combo
random yellow tube leading to nowhere = fillport

edit: missed northbridge, but you guys can figure that out pretty easily...
http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz302/diluzio91/2.png

[Spawn-Inc]

looks good, ideally it would be a bit better to have your cpu after the rad, but it will mess with the tubing routing, so thats fine.

[x88x]

Like Spawn said, it's best to have the pump feeding straight into the blocks, that way the fluid is coolest when it is passing through the waterblocks. (Well, really, I think after a little while the coolant hits equilibrium and is the same temp everywhere, but..eh.) Here's a couple different routes that would work (green is my suggestions).
http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/x13931x/Capture.png
http://i428.photobucket.com/albums/qq3/x13931x/Capture-1.png

[Spawn-Inc]

i meant res>pump>rads>blocks. that's the most ideal, but not always easy to do.

but once it reaches equilibrium, as said, the difference will be less then 1C.

[diluzio91]

does the pump flow from the bottom of the res to the top with that pump res combo? anyone own that model? lemmie know! thanks

[mDust]

does the pump flow from the bottom of the res to the top with that pump res combo? anyone own that model? lemmie know! thanks
All combos pull water from the res and pump it out. This keeps the pump wet, as running a pump dry could damage it pretty quickly. Even if you don't buy a combo, it's a good idea to set up a pump to pull directly from a res.

[diluzio91]

All combos pull water from the res and pump it out. This keeps the pump wet, as running a pump dry could damage it pretty quickly. Even if you don't buy a combo, it's a good idea to set up a pump to pull directly from a res.

So the water shoots out of the bottom, schweet... as i think about my question that makes alot more sense. lol

[x88x]

i meant res>pump>rads>blocks. that's the most ideal, but not always easy to do.

Huh, I've always heard it the other way around (res>pump>blocks>rads), so that the fluid is cool when it enter, then stays in the res as long as possible, to cool it down even more. Like you said though, once it reaches equilibrium it doesn't really matter anyways. :P I think when I finally get around to building Faust I'll do some testing; see if it really does make any difference.

[Spawn-Inc]

the pump adds a small amount of heat into the loop, and unless you have an actively cooled res then the res will do nothing to temps.

i believe in some cases where you use a high restriction block, like the koolance cpu 350 then your better having the full force of the pump going to the block ends up working better.