How to: Working with electronics

[XcOM]

Basic Electronics

(Sources used listed at bottom)

First off before you go any further you must remember some rules:

1) NEVER work with electronics if you don’t feel competent to do so.
2) Always make sure you follow basic safety instructions.
3) ALWAYS disconnect all power before starting work.


Above is a conceptual drawing of an atom. Atoms are the building blocks of matter. Everything is made of atoms, from rocks, to trees, to stars, to even yourself. An atom consists of a tightly packed nucleus containing one or more protons (colored red in the picture), and usually an equal number of neutrons (gray). Electrons (blue) surround the nucleus, forming an electron cloud. The number of electrons in an electrically stable atom is always equal to the number of protons in the nucleus.

Soldering

The most fundamental skill needed to assemble any electronic project is that of soldering. It takes some practice to make the perfect joint, but, like riding a bicycle, once learned is never forgotten! The idea is simple: to join electrical parts together to form an electrical connection, using a molten mixture of lead and tin (solder) with a soldering iron. A large range of soldering irons is available - which one is suitable for you depends on your budget and how serious your interest in electronics is.

The use of lead in solder is now increasingly prohibited in many countries. "Lead free" solder is now statutory instead.

Things to look for a soldering iron.

Voltage: most irons run from the mains at 240V. However, low voltage types (e.g. 12V or 24V) generally form part of a "soldering station" and are designed to be used with a special controller made by the same manufacturer.

Wattage: Typically, they may have a power rating of between 15-25 watts or so, which is fine for most work. A higher wattage does not mean that the iron runs hotter - it simply means that there is more power in reserve for coping with larger joints. This also depends partly on the design of the "bit" (the tip of the iron). Consider a higher wattage iron simply as being more "unstoppable" when it comes to heavier-duty work, because it won't cool down so quickly.

Temperature Control: the simplest and cheapest types don't have any form of temperature regulation. Simply plug them in and switch them on! Thermal regulation is "designed in" (by physics, not electronics!): they may be described as "thermally balanced" so that they have some degree of temperature "matching" but their output will otherwise not be controlled. Unregulated irons form an ideal general purpose iron for most users, and they generally cope well with printed circuit board soldering and general interwiring. Most of these "miniature" types of iron will be of little use when attempting to solder large joints (e.g. very large terminals or very thick wires) because the component being soldered will "sink" heat away from the tip of the iron, cooling it down too much. (This is where a higher wattage comes in useful.)

A proper temperature-controlled iron will be quite a lot more expensive - retailing at say £40 (US$ 60) or more - and will have some form of built-in thermostatic control, to ensure that the temperature of the bit (the tip of the iron) is maintained at a fixed level (within limits). This is desirable especially during more frequent use, since it helps to ensure that the temperature does not "overshoot" in between times, and also guarantees that the output will be relatively stable. Some irons have a bimetallic strip thermostat built into the handle which gives an audible "click" in use: other types use all-electronic controllers, and some may be adjustable using a screwdriver.

Yet more expensive still, soldering stations cost from £70 (US$ 115) upwards (the iron may be sold separately, so you can pick the type you prefer), and consist of a complete bench-top control unit into which a special low-voltage soldering iron is plugged. Some versions might have a built-in digital temperature readout, and will have a control knob to enable you to vary the setting. The temperature could be boosted for soldering larger joints, for example, or for using higher melting-point solders (e.g. silver solder). These are designed for the most discerning users, or for continuous production line/ professional use. The best stations have irons which are well balanced, with comfort-grip handles which remain cool all day. A thermocouple will be built into the tip or shaft, which monitors temperature.

Anti-static protection: if you're interested in soldering a lot of static-sensitive parts (e.g. CMOS chips or MOSFET transistors), more advanced and expensive soldering iron stations use static-dissipative materials in their construction to ensure that static does not build up on the iron itself. You may see these listed as "ESD safe" (electrostatic discharge proof). The cheapest irons won't necessarily be ESD-safe but never the less will still probably perform perfectly well in most hobby or educational applications, if you take the usual anti-static precautions when handling the components. The tip would need to be well earthed (grounded) in these circumstances.

Bits: it's useful to have a small selection of manufacturer's bits (soldering iron tips) available with different diameters or shapes, which can be changed depending on the type of work in hand. You'll probably find that you become accustomed to, and work best with, a particular shape of tip. Often, tips are iron-coated to preserve their life, or they may be bright-plated instead. Copper tips are seldom seen these days.

Spare parts: it's nice to know that spare parts may be available, so if the element blows, you don't need to replace the entire iron. This is especially so with expensive irons. Check through some of the larger mail-order catalogues.

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Copyright Notice
Text © 1996-2006 Wimborne Publishing Limited, Wimborne, Dorset, England. Everyday Practical Electronics Magazine has provided this document as a free web resource to help constructors, trainees and students. You are welcome to download it, print it and distribute it for personal or educational use. It may not be used in any commercial publication, mirrored on any commercial site nor may it be appended to or amended, or used or distributed for any commercial reason, without the prior permission of the Publishers.

Photographs © 1996-2006 Alan Winstanley WORLD COPYRIGHT RESERVED

Every care has been taken to ensure that the information and guidance given is accurate and reliable, but since conditions of use are beyond our control no legal liability or consequential claims will be accepted for any errors herein.

The British mains voltage supply is 230V a.c. and you should amend ratings for local conditions.

Please check the Everyday Practical Electronics Web Site (http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/)for details of the current issue, subscription rates, Back issue availability and contact information.

[XcOM]

Turning to the actual techniques of soldering, firstly it's best to secure the work somehow so that it doesn't move during soldering and affect your accuracy. In the case of a printed circuit board, various holding frames are fairly popular especially with densely populated boards: the idea is to insert all the parts on one side ("stuffing the board"), hold them in place with a special foam pad to prevent them falling out, turn the board over and then snip off the wires with cutters before making the joints. The frame saves an awful lot of turning the board over and over, especially with large boards. Other parts could be held firm in a modeller's small vice, for example.

Solder joints may need to possess some degree of mechanical strength in some cases, especially with wires soldered to, say, potentiometer or switch tags, and this means that the wire should be looped through the tag and secured before solder is applied. The down side is that it is more difficult to de-solder the joint (see later) and remove the wire afterwards, if required. Otherwise, in the case of an ordinary circuit board, components' wires are bent to fit through the board, inserted flush against the board's surface, splayed outwards a little so that the part grips the board, and then soldered.

In my view - opinions vary - it's generally better to snip the surplus wires leads off first, to make the joint more accessible and avoid applying a mechanical shock to the p.c.b. joint. However, in the case of semiconductors, I often tend to leave the snipping until after the joint has been made, since the excess wire will help to sink away some of the heat from the semiconductor junction. Integrated circuits can either be soldered directly into place if you are confident enough, or better, use a dual-in-line socket to prevent heat damage. The chip can then be swapped out if needed.

Parts which become hot in operation (e.g. some resistors), are raised above the board slightly to allow air to circulate. Some components, especially large electrolytic capacitors, may require a mounting clip to be screwed down to the board first, otherwise the part may eventually break off due to vibration.

The perfectly soldered joint will be nice and shiny looking, and will prove reliable in service. I would say that:

* cleanliness
* temperature
* time
* adequate solder coverage

are the key factors affecting the quality of the joint. A little effort spent now in soldering the perfect joint may save you - or somebody else - a considerable amount of time in troubleshooting a defective joint in the future. The basic principles are as follows.

---------------------------
Really Clean

Firstly, and without exception, all parts - including the iron tip itself - must be clean and free from contamination. Solder just will not "take" to dirty parts! Old components or copper board can be notoriously difficult to solder, because of the layer of oxidation which builds up on the surface of the leads. This repels the molten solder and this will soon be evident because the solder will "bead" into globules, going everywhere except where you need it. Dirt is the enemy of a good quality soldered joint!

Hence, it is an absolute necessity to ensure that parts are free from grease, oxidation and other contamination. In the case of old resistors or capacitors, for example, where the leads have started to oxidise, use a small hand-held file or perhaps scrape a knife blade or rub a fine emery cloth over them to reveal fresh metal underneath. Stripboard and copper printed circuit board will generally oxidise after a few months, especially if it has been fingerprinted, and the copper strips can be cleaned using an abrasive rubber block, like an aggressive eraser, to reveal fresh shiny copper underneath.

Also available is a fibre-glass filament brush, which is used propelling-pencil-like to remove any surface contamination. These tend to produce tiny particles which are highly irritating to skin, so avoid accidental contact with any debris. Afterwards, a wipe with a rag soaked in cleaning solvent will remove most grease marks and fingerprints. After preparing the surfaces, avoid touching the parts afterwards if at all possible.

Another side effect of having dirty surfaces is the tendency for people to want to apply more heat in an attempt to "force the solder to take". This will often do more harm than good because it may not be possible to burn off any contaminants anyway, and the component may be overheated. In the case of semiconductors, temperature is quite critical and they may be harmed by applying such excessive heat.

Before using the iron to make a joint, it should be "tinned" (coated with solder) by applying a few millimetres of solder, then wiped on a damp sponge preparing it for use: you should always do this immediately with a new bit, anyway. Personally, I always re-apply a very small amount of solder again, mainly to improve the thermal contact between the iron and the joint, so that the solder will flow more quickly and easily. It's sometimes better to tin larger parts as well before making the joint itself, but it isn't generally necessary with p.c.b. work. (All EPE printed circuit boards are "roller-tinned" to preserve their quality and to help with soldering.) A worthwhile product is Weller's Tip Tinner & Cleaner, a small 15 gram tinlet of paste onto which you dab a hot iron - the product cleans and tins the iron ready for use. An equivalent is Adcola Tip-Save.

Normal electronics grade solder is now "lead free" and typically contains Sn 97 Ag 2.5 Cu 0.5 (i.e. 97% tin, 2.5% silver and 0.5% copper). It already contains cores of "flux" which helps the molten solder to flow more easily over the joint. Flux removes oxides which arise during heating, and is seen as a brown fluid bubbling away on the joint. The use of separate acid flux paste (e.g. as used by plumbers) should NEVER be necessary in normal electronics applications because electronics-grade solder already contains the correct grade of flux! Other solders are available for specialist work, including aluminium and silver-solder. Different solder diameters are produced, too; 20-22 SWG (19-21 AWG) is 0.91-0.71mm diameter and is fine for most work. Choose 18 SWG (16 AWG) for larger joints requiring more solder.

Temperature

Another step to successful soldering is to ensure that the temperature of all the parts is raised to roughly the same level before applying solder. Imagine, for instance, trying to solder a resistor into place on a printed circuit board: it's far better to heat both the copper p.c.b. and the resistor lead at the same time before applying solder, so that the solder will flow much more readily over the joint. Heating one part but not the other is far less satisfactory joint, so strive to ensure that the iron is in contact with all the components first, before touching the solder to it. The melting point of most solder is in the region of 188°C (370°F) and the iron tip temperature is typically 330-350°C (626°-662°F). The latest lead-free solders typically require a higher temperature.

Now is the time

Next, the joint should be heated with the bit for just the right amount of time - during which a short length of solder is applied to the joint. Do not use the iron to carry molten solder over to the joint! Excessive time will damage the component and perhaps the circuit board copper foil too! Heat the joint with the tip of the iron, then continue heating whilst applying solder, then remove the iron and allow the joint to cool. This should take only a few seconds, with experience. The heating period depends on the temperature of your iron and size of the joint - and larger parts need more heat than smaller ones - but some parts (semiconductor diodes, transistors and i.c.s), are sensitive to heat and should not be heated for more than a few seconds. Novices sometimes buy a small clip-on heat-shunt, which resembles a pair of aluminium tweezers. In the case of, say, a transistor, the shunt is attached to one of the leads near to the transistor's body. Any excess heat then diverts up the heat shunt instead of into the transistor junction, thereby saving the device from over-heating. Beginners find them reassuring until they've gained more experience.

Solder Coverage

The final key to a successful solder joint is to apply an appropriate amount of solder. Too much solder is an unnecessary waste and may cause short circuits with adjacent joints. Too little and it may not support the component properly, or may not fully form a working joint. How much to apply, only really comes with practice. A few millimetres only, is enough for an "average" p.c.b. joint, (if there is such a thing).


Copyright Notice
Text © 1996-2006 Wimborne Publishing Limited, Wimborne, Dorset, England. Everyday Practical Electronics Magazine has provided this document as a free web resource to help constructors, trainees and students. You are welcome to download it, print it and distribute it for personal or educational use. It may not be used in any commercial publication, mirrored on any commercial site nor may it be appended to or amended, or used or distributed for any commercial reason, without the prior permission of the Publishers.

Photographs © 1996-2006 Alan Winstanley WORLD COPYRIGHT RESERVED

Every care has been taken to ensure that the information and guidance given is accurate and reliable, but since conditions of use are beyond our control no legal liability or consequential claims will be accepted for any errors herein.

Please check the Everyday Practical Electronics Web Site (http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/)for details of the current issue, subscription rates, Back issue availability and contact information.

[DaveW]

Great guide! I'm sure this will help a lot of people. Maybe instead of having these in the forums, we could make a part of the site dedicated to how-to's? Any thoughts on this idea?

What's with the atom tho?

-Dave

[jsb666]

XcOM great guide! this will help me a lot i know a little bit about soldering but that has filled in all the blanks i had before. Im about to attach 2 switches to my dvd-rom's tomorrow and this will help me do that with more confidence. Thanks

[XcOM]

you welcome all, and i put the atom thing in as a basic guide, i thought i would give a bit of insite into how it works.

Took me about 3Hours to write it. and if you want to start a proper section on How To's/Guides i am more than willing to help.

[tybrenis]

Awesome guide XcOM! May I publish it on my site (all credits will of course be given)? I would love to put it on my site where many would see it, I am starting a collection of the guides here to put on my site. That way, everyone can access them all quickly and conveniantly.

[Aero]

nice guide Xcom. May I suggest you add a small section about soldering wire to wire, and using heatshrink tubeing? It seems that wire to wire is one ofthe hardest thing to keep from spliting so naturally it should have a welcome spot in your guide.

Thanks for the great guide XcOM, i'm sure it will help many rookies to realize their electonic visions.

[Cannibal23]

************ Lead free solder information *******************

the company i work for does alot of international jobs and we have had some requrements for lead free solder. One little known thing about solder that is very rich in tin however is that over time (long time) it can cause little finger like formations on the surface of the solder. although these things are apparently very small they could cause shorts in electronic componants that are packed very closely togeather. here is a link to a very technical document regarding the above items for those of you who are intersted

http://doc.tms.org/ezMerchant/prodtms.nsf/ProductLookupItemID/JOM-0106-33/$FILE/JOM-0106-33F.pdf?OpenElement

[XcOM]

Awesome guide XcOM! May I publish it on my site (all credits will of course be given)? I would love to put it on my site where many would see it, I am starting a collection of the guides here to put on my site. That way, everyone can access them all quickly and conveniantly.


yea sure, give credit and you can,

P.S can you send a link to me for the website

[tybrenis]

yea sure, give credit and you can,

P.S can you send a link to me for the website

Thanks! I am gathering all the guides here and editing, revising, and then publishing them for my site so they can all be accessed easily. Looks like your guide won't need any editing, it was very well written :p .

My site is www.powerpackedpc.com.

[xmastree]

Different solder diameters are produced, too; 20-22 SWG (19-21 AWG) is 0.91-0.71mm diameter and is fine for most work. Choose 18 SWG (16 AWG) for larger joints requiring more solder.
Another tip, if you only have the thin solder available and you need to make a larger joint. Rather than buying thicker stuff for one task, you can take multiple strands of the thinner one and twist them together.

Excellent guide, but I feel there's something missing. The guide centres around soldering components to pcbs, whereas I imagine the majority of modders will be dealing with extending fan/psu wiring, mounting remote CD/DVD buttons, extra LEDs, that kind of thing.


Here's a tip from an old hand...

When stripping stranded wire, don't remove the insulation before twisting the strands. Instead, slide it part way and 'unscrew' it. That makes the resulting twist much neater and it's easier too.

The wrong way, it's difficult to twist when it's like this:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f341/chrispollard/wire1.jpg

Pull the insulation part way:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f341/chrispollard/wire2.jpg

Start to twist it:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f341/chrispollard/wire3.jpg

And unscrew it completely:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f341/chrispollard/wire4.jpg


Another tip, regarding LEDs. If you solder right up to the body, you run the risk of damaging it through excess heat, so solder at the end of the lead if possible.

And here's another. If you're using wire cutters to strip the wire (who hasn't? ;) ) turn them round.
By that, I mean look at the jaws, one side is usually angled more than the other. If you use them one way the angle will tend to squeeze the insulation onto the wire, making it dificult. The other way they're more likely to push the insulation rather than squeezing.


wrong:
|/
==--====
|\

right:
\|
==--===
/|

Is that clear? \| are the cutter jaws, = is insulation, - is bare wire. Cutters are moving from left to right.

[tybrenis]

Nice additon xmastree! Mind if I add that to the article as well?

[xmastree]

Some irons have a bimetallic strip thermostat built into the handle which gives an audible "click" in use: other types use all-electronic controllers, and some may be adjustable using a screwdriver.Another technique, used in Weller irons, is to use a magnetic tip. The magnet pulls in the connection to power the element. Once the tip reaches its curie point (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curie_point), it loses its magnetic properties and releases the switch. Upon cooling a little, the magnetic properties are restored and it switches on again.

This means that the operating temperature is controlled by the tip, which is easily changed should one require a different temperature. See this (http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/weller/tips/pttips.htm) for an example of different tips and temperatures available. The tips are marked on the back with either 6,7 or 8.

[xmastree]

Nice additon xmastree! Mind if I add that to the article as well?
Feel free, and the next one too. I'll probably add some more tips as I think of them. Anything I post here is for the good of the community, so may be used as you wish.

[xmastree]

My site is www.powerpackedpc.com. Looks good, but you really need to change that illminated case pic... Light sources confuse the hell out of autofocus cameras, but your Kodak CX6230 doesn't have a manual focus option. Kinda difficult under the circumstances. :(

[tybrenis]

Looks good, but you really need to change that illminated case pic... Light sources confuse the hell out of autofocus cameras, but your Kodak CX6230 doesn't have a manual focus option. Kinda difficult under the circumstances. :(

Lol, yes, that case isn't even existant anymore... scraps and parts of it are now laying around, my Cirque du Soleil case is now finished and my current case. I now have a Sony Camera that I use... 5.0 megapixel, any feature I could ever want. BTW, how did you know what type of POS camera I had? Good eye.

[xmastree]

BTW, how did you know what type of POS camera I had? Good eye.Heh, that's easy. Download the picture and examine the EXIF data.
You took it on January 22, 2003 at 08:48. 1/2 sec @ f/2.7 8)
(BTW, check ur PM...)

[xmastree]

Here's more. LEDs. Having worked in the elecronics industry for a long time, I know that there's only one sure-fire way to know the polarity of an LED (apart from using a tester, and that can sometimes be misleading). It used to be that the long lead was the cathode, or was it the anode? Anyway, different manufacturers had different standards in this respect, so that method isn't reliable unless you know the manufacturer and have access to the data sheet. And what if the leads have been cut?

So, another method, the flat on the package. This usually denotes the cathode. I say usually because again, different manufacturers have different standards. So, you can't use that method either. :rolleyes:

It seems that getting manufacturers to agree to a simple standard is like herding cats.

No, the best way is to look inside the LED itself (easier with the high brightness ones as they're usually crystal clear) and look at the construction.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f341/chrispollard/LEDpolarity.png

Inside there is a cup, containing the chip itself (and usually a reflector) and alongside that is a smaller post with a tiny wire connecting to the chip.

The Cup is the Cathode. That's the one which connects to the negative of the supply.

[tybrenis]

Heh, that's easy. Download the picture and examine the EXIF data.
You took it on January 22, 2003 at 08:48. 1/2 sec @ f/2.7 8)
(BTW, check ur PM...)

Wow, you seem like a very extensive kinda guy, that's very interesting.

BTW, great addition to the guide.

Check your PMs.

[XcOM]

Time for an update,

ok by request i will explain heat shrink:

Basic Understanding of HEAT SHRINK TUBING
Heat shrink tubing is made up of plastic that is only partially polymerized. (Polymerization is a chemical reaction which forms polymers by sticking a group of monomers together. A monomer is a group of atoms that are stuck together.) Heat is what's necessary to complete the chemical reaction. You can think of it as if the plastic is only part-way formed before exposed to the heat.

As the seperate monomers in the plastic are polymerized, they get closer together, making the plastic denser, which causes the tube to shrink. But because the polymerization reaction is one-way, the tube won't expand again once it cools down.

How it worksPlease excuse me if i repeat my self from here on

Heat shrink tubing is placed over the connection to be protected and then heated with a hot air gun or similar tool (in desperate times, I have been known to use lighters). When the tubing is heated, the material polymerizes further, which changes its physical properties (most importantly, an increase in density). The heat causes the tubing to contract as far as one half or one third of its original diameter, providing a snug fit over irregularly shaped joints. This provides good electrical insulation, protection from dust, solvents and other foreign materials, as well as strain relief. But, if overheated, heat shrink tubing can melt or catch fire like any plastic.

Some types of heat shrink provide an adhesive surface on the inside to help provide a good seal, while others rely on friction from the closely conforming materials.

This is what it looks like:http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/online/images/80811_80807_80604.jpg

Ok, here we go:
1: Select proper size of tubing. The tubing's published recovered diameter must be less than the diameter of the area to be insulated to allow for a secure, tight fit and the expanded diameter (as supplied) must be large enough to pass over the existing insulation and/or connectors.

2:Cut tubing to length, allowing for a minimum overlap of 1/4" over the existing insulation or connector. Also allow for approximately 5-7% shrinkage in the axial (cable) direction.

3:Slide the cut tubing over the existing insulation.

4:For splicing, slide the tubing over the center of the splice, with equal overlap on both sides

5:If you have a long cable to shrink over, start at one end and rotate while applying heat. This will give a uniform shrink with no air bubbles between the shrink tubing and the rod or cable.

6:Apply heat evenly over the length and outer diameter of the tubing, until it is evenly shrunk and conforms to the shape of the splice. Immediately remove the heat source. Allow tubing to cool slowly before applying physical stress.

7: See individual tubing specifications for recommended heating temperature. Any commercial heat gun can be used, or shrinking can be done in an oven. Use of open flame is not recommended, as the uncontrolled heat may cause uneven shrinkage and/or physical damage to the material causing insulation failure.

And the rule that MUST BE FOLLOWED!
8:Avoid overheating the shrink tubing or it will become brittle and/or char.



And there you go, the above is normally used to tidy up cases and used when making a wire to wire connection which i will do at a later point.

[xmastree]

Here I am again... following up another of XcOM's excellent posts...

One really neat way to make a splice in a wire, let's say you're adding another molex for example. Slide some sleeving over the original wire, cut the insulation and expose the wire itself. Wrap the new one round it and solder. Then slide the sleeving over the joint (allow the joint to cool first, or the residual heat will start to shrink the sleeving before it's in place) but keep the wires in a Y shape.
Apply the heat and shrink the sleeving.
Once the sleeving has shrunk, but before it has cooled, squeeze the part in between the top of the Y with small pliers. Once it has cooled, remove the pliers and you should have a really neat looking splice.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f341/chrispollard/heatshrink.png

This works even better with the adhesive lined sleeving.

[XcOM]

im working on that guide tonight for you all, my secret tip will be released!!!!!!! a hint, its brown or white, its sweet, it can melt and comes in squares and you can eat it!

[tybrenis]

im working on that guide tonight for you all, my secret tip will be released!!!!!!! a hint, its brown or white, its sweet, it can melt and comes in squares and you can eat it!

xCom's secret chocolate recipe??? No way!!!

[xmastree]

xCom's secret chocolate recipe??? No way!!!
I suspect it has more to do with chocolate block connectors.

[tybrenis]

I suspect it has more to do with chocolate block connectors.

You can eat them?

[XcOM]

You can eat them?


No, its just there name, i was going to post it but ran out of time.

[tybrenis]

No, its just there name, i was going to post it but ran out of time.

Lol

[xmastree]

tybrenis, I'm just wondering if you managed to take a look at that LED diagram I PM'd you about...

[XcOM]

Ok, at long last i have got the time to post this:

In this section i will cover wire to wire connections. This is normally used to either extend a wire or to splice a wire (Sim to posted above using a Y splice with heat shrink)

Ok, i personally use small chocolate Blocks (Otherwise known as Terminal blocks)

Chocolate blocks are usually supplied in 12-way lengths but they can be cut into smaller blocks with a sharp knife, large wire cutters or a junior hacksaw.

Here you go, this is what a chocolate block looks like:
http://www.toogoodtoeat.co.uk/images/pic_chocolatepieces.jpg
No no no,,,only joking, this is a chocolate block looks like:
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/photos/rapid/conblock.jpg

To extend a wire in a chocolate block, strip the wire (You need about 1/2") and insert it into one side of the chocolate block, the wire is secured by a small screw, you MUST make sure that this is 100% secure, and that there is NO exposed wire. Then strip 1/2" of the wire you are using to extend, and do the same, but on the other side, this works by a simple connector passing the current through.

TO split a cable using a chocolate block do the same as above, but where you insert the extention cable, you insert the orginal cable and the splice cable.

Chocolate blocks are really only used to extend wires, you should follow the above post for splicing.

If you can't get some chocolate blocks, don't worry, there is another way:

This is a last resort and Chocolate blocks are a much better way of extending.

1: Strip the two wires that need to be soldered together. You should have 1/2-3/4 inch exposed wire on each.
http://pix.crutchfield.com/kb/solder1.jpg

2: Cross the wires in an "X" pattern and twist them together
http://pix.crutchfield.com/kb/solder2.jpghttp://pix.crutchfield.com/kb/solder3.jpg

3: Apply the soldering iron the the splice. Quickly dab the end of the iron with solder, this solder helps transfer the heat to the wire. Allow the wire to absorb the heat. This should take aprox 20-30 seconds...
http://pix.crutchfield.com/kb/solder4.jpg

4: Apply the solder to the wire, NOT the iron. Once the wire is hot enough, it will absorb the solder. If you touch the solder directly to the iron, the wire will not absorb the solder. This will result in a faulty "cold solder" joint.
http://pix.crutchfield.com/kb/solder5.jpg

When doing this always using something to cover the connection, like heat shrink tubing.

Thats it for now, i will do some more guides when i have some more information and pictures to use, also if anyone whats help, just request it, i and im sure other members will be more than happy to help.

[xmastree]

When doing this always using something to cover the connection, like heat shrink tubing.How appropriate that you mention sleeving at the end, after making the joint. In my experience, that's exactly the time when you realise you forgot it.
Strip, twist, solder, sleeving... D'Oh! :rolleyes:
So, if both wires are connected to something else, put the sleeving on first! The joint is never as neat the second time around. ;)
Also, slide it well away from the joint you're making so that the heat from soldering it doesn't start to shrink it.

This has been another 'voice of experience' announcment... :p

[XcOM]

......
Strip, twist, solder, sleeving... D'Oh! :rolleyes:
......

Ph how meny times i have done that, i think i rem now, but normally ppl read the whole post before attempting it, so i added that hea shrink after i had writtenm it, i couldn't be arsed to go up and add it, re-numbering everything.

[tybrenis]

Haha, roger that, 50% of the time I forget to sleeve it until AFTER I solder.

[guitar.child]

great guide love it helpful

[Maz]

i must say. nice guide.

for all the years i have been taking solder on my iron's tip and placing it on well fluxxed copper and component lead. it worked, but i never thought it worked well.

[Airbozo]

Haha, roger that, 50% of the time I forget to sleeve it until AFTER I solder.

After doing splices/heat shrinking for McDonnel Douglas (yes that MD-11 has some of my wiring in it...) for 7 months I NEVER forget the heat shrink tubing anymore. Ok 99% of the time I never forget...

Thanks for the guide. Even veteran solder'ers need to brush up on thier techniques!

[xmastree]

for all the years i have been taking solder on my iron's tip and placing it on well fluxxed copper and component lead. it worked, but i never thought it worked well.
That should work ok, but most solder has the flux inside it and once melted, it's gone. Fluxing the joint and applying molten solder to it will be fine. In fact, that's exactly how most automatic soldering machines work. Or used to, before surface mount and hot air.

[ARW/ EPEmag]

you welcome all, and i put the atom thing in as a basic guide, i thought i would give a bit of insite into how it works.

Took me about 3H ours to write it. and if you want to start a proper section on How To's/Guides i am more than willing to help.



Hi everyone,

My name's Alan Winstanley, the Online Editor of EPE Magazine in the UK, and the author of the Basic Soldering Guide.

I know this is an old thread but I wanted users of this forum to know that the soldering guide article posted at the start of this thread was not written by the user concerned but is a direct verbatim copy of my own material. I notice that my name and magazine credits have been removed. My "Basic Soldering Guide" is the No.1 source on the Internet and has been for many years. (Just Google for soldering.)

See http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

I thought I'd clarify that the user who claims he took 3 hours to write it, did not originate it, and the photographs are mine too. Additionally no permission was granted by me for images to be streamed in from the EPE web server to supplement the material. Apart from one exception in 1999, I never allow these photos to be republished.

Furthermore the original poster has no authority to grant permission to allow others to reproduce my material on their own sites, or they will be in breach of my copyright as well.

Hoping the above clarifies the matter.


Alan Winstanley
EPE Magazine Online Editor
www.epemag.co.uk

Email alan [at] epemag.demon.co.uk

[DaveW]

Images from:
Swansontec, epemag

He has made references to your material at the end of it, but it is not as clear as it should be. Although thebestcasescenario.com will not accept reponsibility for what's posted (although we do try to keep it clean) i'd like to maybe clear this one up-as the guide is very good, and we'd like to keep hosting a version.

Obviously, as it infringes on your copyright, we'll remove it if you request it. Personally, i'm hoping we can reach some kind of middle ground.

Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

-Dave

[ARW/ EPEmag]

I've emailed some proposals for a compromise to allow the text to be retained, and I now await a response.

EPE Magazine does try hard to help the hobbyist community but the OP does of course give the clear impression that he wrote the material, which he did not. It would also have been polite to ask first, just like other web site owners asked HIM if they could re-use the material on their sites. (!!)

There had never been anything to prevent linking to the main page of the soldering guide however.

Thank you for your understanding.

-- ARW

Visit the EPE Forum at EPE Chat Zone (http://www.chatzones.co.uk)

[Crimson Sky]

Alan thanks for visiting and bringing this matter to the attention of myself and the staff here. I've sent you an email as well to help clear this up.

[ARW/ EPEmag]

Perfect, thank you -- I couldn' t write better myself ;)

-- ARW

EPE Magazine

[Drew]

Oh.

That's not good.

Glad it's sorted out, would have been a shame to lose such a good article (whoever wrote it).

[ARW/ EPEmag]

I wrote it! :)

EPE Magazine Basic Soldering Guide (http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm)

Folks might also be interested in my full review of the Coldheat "Cold Soldering Iron" on the same page.

Alan W/ EPE