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View Full Version : CW02: silver 2 black or black 2 silver, which is easier to pull-off flawlessly?



jalyst
03-07-2011, 03:28 AM
When I say silver I really mean polished aluminium Vs anodised (black) aluminium.
I'm having a very hard time deciding between the silver or black Silverstone (http://www.silverstonetek.com/products/p_photo.php?pno=cw02&area=usa) CW02 (http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&source=imghp&biw=1280&bih=829&q=silverstone+cw02&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=&oq=).

I've weighed-up many different factors & I've decided what the determining criteria should be.
In the event I'm not happy with the colour I chose, whichever is easiest to mod to it's opposite colour, is the colour I want.

So the question is;
Is it easier to revert a black (anodised) case to a silver one, or a silver (bare aluminium) case to a black one?*

I'm guessing silver to black would be easier to pull-off in a slick/pro way, but I'm by no means an expert in the area.
Any sign writers, panel beaters, or hard-core modders please advise if you can!

Thank-you very much.
*I'm happy to pay to get either professionally done...
Just want to know what would be easier for the "pros" to do well!

xr4man
03-07-2011, 12:30 PM
it's always easier to cover a lighter color with a darker color.

xr4man
03-07-2011, 02:57 PM
cw02?????

xr4man
03-07-2011, 03:43 PM
oh crap. cw02 is the case model. duh!

yes, i did read the OP. and he asked if it would be easier to color silver black or to color black silver and i replied that is is always easier to cover a lighter (silver) color with a darker (black) color.

slaveofconvention
03-07-2011, 03:57 PM
I'd toss a coin or go with your gut - if you change your mind, you can always ebay the old case and get the other one - if its still in near-perfect condition, and still a current model by then, you may get as much as 80% of the going price for it - removing the black anodised finish isn't impossible - will take MANY hours of gentle sanding one way only to try to replicate the grain, and then you'll have to find a way to protect the silver finish. Once all that's done, you'll still be a fair way from the factory finish.

jalyst
03-09-2011, 01:23 AM
Thanks slaveofconvention,

For those curious, been getting some in-depth thoughts/advice from some modders here
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1036936644#post1036936644

jalyst
03-11-2011, 11:26 AM
*scratch*
Another point, I was speaking to someone who owns the silver one...
And they "think" there's no paint job anywhere on the case, just raw brushed aluminium.
Yet I look at some (http://www.silverstonetek.com/products/p_photo.php?pno=cw02&area=usa) photos (http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&source=imghp&biw=1280&bih=829&q=silverstone+cw02&gbv=2&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=) & I swear the dress plates have some sort of paint on them.
What do you reckon?
*scratch*

Others reckon (http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1036945574#post1036945574) it's brushed in two diff. tones & anodised, but not painted as such?
The dress plates are painted on the black case, but there's conflicting opinions (http://www.avforums.com/forums/home-entertainment-pcs/982191-ninja-12s-silverstone-cw02-htpc-7.html#post14223232) WRT to the silver one

If true converting to black will be more complicated than what some have claimed so far.
Whether or not it's more complicated than black to silver is YTBD...

These are the basic steps (omitting much detail I imagine) as I see them:

silver --> black case:
*dip in lye to remove anodised tint
*wipe off (don't brush so as to avoid ruining brush lines?)
*then anodise black.

black --> silver case:
*dip in lye to remove anodised tint
*wipe off
*try to produce brush lines on the body & dress plates similar to the silver cw02 (if they're not already there)

I imagine black -> silver (because of the last step) will require more work & hence more $ if I'm paying someone.
Do ya'll agree or do you feel I'm oversimplifying & that silver --> black would be more labour intensive?

Silverstone's just confirmed that both colours are brushed, sandblasted, & anodised, no paint involved!
http://www.avforums.com/forums/home-entertainment-pcs/982191-ninja-12s-silverstone-cw02-htpc-7.html#post14229443
That being the case, I don't see how one can argue that the silver case is a less complex transition?

These new findings mean my basic steps for transition above are wrong...
For black --> silver the 3rd & final step would be: *then do clear anodisation. Thoughts/advice anyone?

Thank-you.

xr4man
03-18-2011, 09:45 AM
glad you were able to make your decision.

jalyst
03-18-2011, 12:03 PM
glad you were able to make your decision.

Thanks!

I've since determined there's little to no difference in transitioning from b to s or s to b.
http://www.avforums.com/forums/14229443-post188.html
At least not enough to warrant a difference in cost for a DIY'er, or someone professionally doing it for you.

Sometimes all the anodisation doesn't come-off cleanly (if you botch it slightly).
For this reason the black "can be" a trickier job, as when one goes to clear anodize it, any faint black splotches show-up.
Whereas for the silver, if there's any residual clear anodisation, anodising to black will not allow it to be seen.

But all this is only an issue if one stuff's up the Lye bath, essentially the transition for both is equally complicated.

So the basis of my decision is no longer "which transitions more easily" but rather;
Which "looks better" & is more understated/versatile as a colour for "my needs"

Considering black's qualities, that my AV gear is likely to be black, & that my radiator is black*...
I have chosen the CW02B & she's now on her way from Amazon, thanks to those with useful input earlier!

All the best.
*painting it silver won't make it look like the silver case, whereas the black rad. looks like the black case