New Case - Want to water cool it

[Fuganater]

Hey all,

Been quite a while since I was on here. I'm looking at making a new PC and want to water cool just the CPU. Maybe add the GPU later so expandability would be nice.

The case:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129087

I've looked at CPU kits but they are not expandable.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181015

Now since I'm putting $1,500 in to hardware, I would like to make the water cooling under $400. That being said I saw the H20-220 on Swiftech's website and I think its pretty slick. http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-X20-Edge.asp An all in 1 system that is a good brand. Anyone use this? It is compatible with my case according to their website. Is this system expandable to include my GPU at a later date?

I've also seen this setup:
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-ULTIMA-XT.asp

A bit more work to install and not so compact. Anyone use it or can recommend a different product?

As I said I really like the H20-220 product for being so compact.

Thanks in advance for the help!

[Fuganater]

Also I would like to figure out how to make an LCD display for temps. Ideas?

[mDust]

First, any water-cooling kit is expandable...for the most part anyway.
If the kit uses standard fittings then yes, you can easily expand it by just changing where the hoses go. All you'll need is the gpu block, additional fittings, and a bit more hose.

I'm not sure how it compares in the performance department but this kit was reviewed here a little while ago: http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/frontpage/?q=Larkooler+KU3-241+G1/4. It's about 2/3 the price. I'm not endorsing it or anything but I thought I'd at least make you aware of it.

EDIT:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23490

[slaveofconvention]

Are you set on that case? There's nothing wrong with it but it seems to be more aimed at air-cooled systems than watercooled ones.

As for WC kits, there are better people than me to answer that but I imagine, with the budget you have in mind, you should be in a pretty good position to get high quality individual parts which would definitely then allow for expansion. I would certainly recommend the biggest radiator you can justify - it'll be utter overkill for just CPU cooling but it'll definitely give you the expandability you're wanting.

Finally, the LCD for temps - there are lots of fan controller/temp monitors out there depending on how you want to mount them - there are 3.5" bay units, 5.25" units or you can get standalone temp LCDs which you can mount somewhere in the case with a little modding.

[x88x]

I don't have any experience with Swiftech's new pump/rad/res things like in the H2O-220 and 320, but Kayin has two of the 320's (though they're not running yet) so he might be able to give a better opinion on those specifically.

That case looks like it gives you plenty of space up top for a 2x120 or (ideally) a 2x140 rad, though. It actually gives you a lot of space between the top of the case and the MBB, which most cases don't.

I think any of the solutions you linked should suite you well. Just keep in mind that a 2x120 rad will not be a simple bolt-in solution for the top of that case, since it was designed with two 140mm fans. Because of this, if you don't go with one of the Swiftech all-in-one things, I would highly recommend going with a 2x140 instead of a 2x120 rad. They're more expensive, but they give you ~50% more radiator surface area and it will be simpler to mount one in that case.

[diluzio91]

Lol. also, i have a complete loop for AMD or Intel up for sale in the FS section.

[Fuganater]

First, any water-cooling kit is expandable...for the most part anyway.
If the kit uses standard fittings then yes, you can easily expand it by just changing where the hoses go. All you'll need is the gpu block, additional fittings, and a bit more hose.

I'm not sure how it compares in the performance department but this kit was reviewed here a little while ago: http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/frontpage/?q=Larkooler+KU3-241+G1/4. It's about 2/3 the price. I'm not endorsing it or anything but I thought I'd at least make you aware of it.

EDIT:
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23490

That looks like a very nice kit for $200. I'll have to read a bit more about it.


Are you set on that case? There's nothing wrong with it but it seems to be more aimed at air-cooled systems than watercooled ones.

As for WC kits, there are better people than me to answer that but I imagine, with the budget you have in mind, you should be in a pretty good position to get high quality individual parts which would definitely then allow for expansion. I would certainly recommend the biggest radiator you can justify - it'll be utter overkill for just CPU cooling but it'll definitely give you the expandability you're wanting.

Finally, the LCD for temps - there are lots of fan controller/temp monitors out there depending on how you want to mount them - there are 3.5" bay units, 5.25" units or you can get standalone temp LCDs which you can mount somewhere in the case with a little modding.

I'm not 100% set on the case but it covers alot of what I'm looking for. Side panel, SSD mount for future use, 3x USB on the front, lots of fans for good air flow, the 2.5" HDD mount on top is SICK! I like the fans to keep the rest of the mobo cool. I'm going with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131702 The Thermal Armor needs good airflow to keep it cool.


I don't have any experience with Swiftech's new pump/rad/res things like in the H2O-220 and 320, but Kayin has two of the 320's (though they're not running yet) so he might be able to give a better opinion on those specifically.

That case looks like it gives you plenty of space up top for a 2x120 or (ideally) a 2x140 rad, though. It actually gives you a lot of space between the top of the case and the MBB, which most cases don't.

I think any of the solutions you linked should suite you well. Just keep in mind that a 2x120 rad will not be a simple bolt-in solution for the top of that case, since it was designed with two 140mm fans. Because of this, if you don't go with one of the Swiftech all-in-one things, I would highly recommend going with a 2x140 instead of a 2x120 rad. They're more expensive, but they give you ~50% more radiator surface area and it will be simpler to mount one in that case.

I do see your point with the 2x140 rad. I could do a 2x120 on the back of the case or a 2x140 on the top of the case. But after measuring the case is 23.5" tall and my space for the case is only 26" tall. So adding another 1.5" would make cooling the rad kinda hard. I mean i MIGHT be able to mount it to the top on the inside of the case but I'll have to check out some more reviews on it. Some reviews so far said that you cant being that the top and rear fans are smack against each other.

[Fuganater]

I found this comparison between the DF-85 and the HAF-X. http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/758936-full-tower-atx-battle-antec-df.html Is the HAF-X any better for my situation?

[x88x]

I could do a 2x120 on the back of the case or a 2x140 on the top of the case. But after measuring the case is 23.5" tall and my space for the case is only 26" tall. So adding another 1.5" would make cooling the rad kinda hard. I mean i MIGHT be able to mount it to the top on the inside of the case but I'll have to check out some more reviews on it. Some reviews so far said that you cant being that the top and rear fans are smack against each other.

Yes and no. If you look at the space around the fan mounts for the rear fans (remember, radiators are wider than the fans), there won't be space to put a radiator on the rear mounts inside the case. However, there is space, I think, to put in a radiator and at least one layer of fans (if not two, ie, one on each side of the radiator) for a top-mounted radiator. You are correct, though; the top rear fan won't fit if you do that.

[Fuganater]

Yes and no. If you look at the space around the fan mounts for the rear fans (remember, radiators are wider than the fans), there won't be space to put a radiator on the rear mounts inside the case. However, there is space, I think, to put in a radiator and at least one layer of fans (if not two, ie, one on each side of the radiator) for a top-mounted radiator. You are correct, though; the top rear fan won't fit if you do that.

What if I mounted the 2x120 rad on the back, kept the fans inside and put another set of fans outside? I wouldn't really have to use another set of fans though because the H20-220 has fans 2x120 fans built onto it. Sound right?

[Fuganater]

After doing more reading I think I will go with the Cooler Master HAF-X. Seems that the rest of the WC modding world says its hands down better than they BF-85.

[x88x]

What if I mounted the 2x120 rad on the back, kept the fans inside and put another set of fans outside? I wouldn't really have to use another set of fans though because the H20-220 has fans 2x120 fans built onto it. Sound right?

That would work, yeah. You would have to send the tubing in through the holes that Antec put there for you though; there's not enough space to do a seamless entry like on my Zeus mod. And the fans are not actually built onto the H2O-x20 kits, they're just normal fans screwed on just like any other radiator. The reason I recommend a set of fans on each side is because that is necessary to move the maximum amount of air through the radiator, regardless of what kind of radiator or fan you are using.

That being said, I think you're right; the HAF-X will suite your needs better. ;)

[Fuganater]

How did you do your lighting Oneslowz28?


I've been doing research all day. Here is the config I came up with. I figured 3/8" should be enough to cool a CPU and GPU. Let me know if I should change any parts for something else.

Pump: DD-CPX-Pro (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html)
Reservoir: Not sure weather a single or dual bay is better.
Single: XSPC 5.25" (http://www.dangerden.com/store/xspc-5.25-bay-reservoir-clear-silver-black.html)
Dual: Ideas? No LED's unless they are red.
Radiator: Black Ice GT Stealth 280 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9013/ex-rad-154/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_280_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s930#blank)
Rad Fans: Suggestions?
CPU Water Block: MPC-CPU Block for LGA 1155, 1156 i3, i5, i7 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/mpc-cpu-block-for-lga-1156-i3-i5-i7.html)
GPU Water Block: DD-Tieton for GTX280/260 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-tieton-for-gtx280-260.html#tabs)
Tubing: Tygon 3/8" (http://www.dangerden.com/store/tygon-3603-tubing.html#tabs) I guess?
Liquid: I heard Distilled water + some chemical is the best. Thoughts?
Flow Meter / Temp Indicator: Thermaltake Flow TX Plus (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6876/ex-flo-05/Thermaltake_Flow_TX_Plus_Flow_Meter_w_Temperature_ Indicator_CL-W0138.html?tl=g30c229s582#blank)
System Fan Control: I saw Oneslowz28 used the NZXT Sentry 2 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005) and that looked pretty slick. Any others?
System Fans: Gonna replace the top 200mm fan with 2x Cooler Master MegaFlow 200mm fans with red LED's (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9775/fan-618/Cooler_Master_MegaFlow_200mm_x_30mm_Red_LED_Fan_Co smos_S_HAF_Series_ATCS_840_Storm_Sniper_R4-LUS-07AR-GP.html?tl=g36c331s857)
Fill Port: Danger Den Fillport - Copper/Red (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2196/ex-res-46/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Copper_Red.html?tl=g30c101s460)
Drain Port: No idea. I like the one Oneslowz28 did but that's a bit beyond my skill set atm.

Do barbed fittings come on these parts? Or do I need to order something else. Also I have no idea what extra fittings I will need. (T's, 90's, etc.)

I am also thinking about mounting the fill port to the top of the case but I'm still trying to find more pictures of the case to figure out how to do it.

Lots of idea's... Now just to figure out the parts and spend some money :D

[TheMainMan]

How did you do your lighting Oneslowz28?


His case is lit with this (http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/case_accessories/sleeved_led_kit_-_blue).
I can't weigh in on the WC as I have no experience, but if you do get the Sabertooth TUF please share your experiences with it. It's an interesting looking board.

[Spawn-Inc]

How did you do your lighting Oneslowz28?


I've been doing research all day. Here is the config I came up with. I figured 3/8" should be enough to cool a CPU and GPU. Let me know if I should change any parts for something else.

Pump: DD-CPX-Pro (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html)
Reservoir: Not sure weather a single or dual bay is better.
Single: XSPC 5.25" (http://www.dangerden.com/store/xspc-5.25-bay-reservoir-clear-silver-black.html)
Dual: Ideas? No LED's unless they are red.
Radiator: Black Ice GT Stealth 280 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9013/ex-rad-154/Black_Ice_GT_Stealth_280_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s930#blank)
Rad Fans: Suggestions?
CPU Water Block: MPC-CPU Block for LGA 1155, 1156 i3, i5, i7 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/mpc-cpu-block-for-lga-1156-i3-i5-i7.html)
GPU Water Block: DD-Tieton for GTX280/260 (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-tieton-for-gtx280-260.html#tabs)
Tubing: Tygon 3/8" (http://www.dangerden.com/store/tygon-3603-tubing.html#tabs) I guess?
Liquid: I heard Distilled water + some chemical is the best. Thoughts?
Flow Meter / Temp Indicator: Thermaltake Flow TX Plus (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6876/ex-flo-05/Thermaltake_Flow_TX_Plus_Flow_Meter_w_Temperature_ Indicator_CL-W0138.html?tl=g30c229s582#blank)
System Fan Control: I saw Oneslowz28 used the NZXT Sentry 2 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005) and that looked pretty slick. Any others?
System Fans: Gonna replace the top 200mm fan with 2x Cooler Master MegaFlow 200mm fans with red LED's (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9775/fan-618/Cooler_Master_MegaFlow_200mm_x_30mm_Red_LED_Fan_Co smos_S_HAF_Series_ATCS_840_Storm_Sniper_R4-LUS-07AR-GP.html?tl=g36c331s857)
Fill Port: Danger Den Fillport - Copper/Red (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2196/ex-res-46/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Copper_Red.html?tl=g30c101s460)
Drain Port: No idea. I like the one Oneslowz28 did but that's a bit beyond my skill set atm.

Do barbed fittings come on these parts? Or do I need to order something else. Also I have no idea what extra fittings I will need. (T's, 90's, etc.)

I am also thinking about mounting the fill port to the top of the case but I'm still trying to find more pictures of the case to figure out how to do it.

Lots of idea's... Now just to figure out the parts and spend some money :D

over all a decent list, though some things i would change/remove.

i would opt for a newer cpu block such as the swiftech XT, ek Supreme HF (non nickle finish), or XSPC Raza.

i would ditch the rad as it's very thin which is not what you want. pending what your going for (perfromance, silence or both) then look at swiftech, XSPC RX, thermochill, black ice GTX, black ice SR-1 to name a few.

for fans, if your looking for a great price/performance ratio then grab yate loons. i run 18 for my rad setup at 5v all the time.

do not buy ANYTHING thermaltake when it comes to water cooling, they are one of the worst companies around, likewise with Zalman.
also there is no real reason for a flow meter, they normally reduce flow a good deal.

i wouldn't get that fill port as it is aluminum and even though it's not in direct contact with the water, it will still corrode. i know as it happened to me.
swiftech makes an all brass one for a bit less i believe.

for coolant your correct, Distilled water and a biocide like PT nuke PHN or a strip of .999 silver.


most retailers will give you an option to add barbs if they aren't already included.

here are some links that may help


Check out Jabtech (http://www.jab-tech.com/), Petra's tech shop (http://www.petrastechshop.com/), sidewinders computers (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/), and performance pc's (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php) for hard to find parts, they have just about anything ever made for water.

http://overclockerstech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:water-cooling-guide-for-beginners&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=88

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631501 - though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643364

[Fuganater]

OK, I'll do some more reading and get a revised parts list together tonight. Still looking for:
Temp monitor
Variable speed fans for case and rad
Variable speed fan controller for 5.25" bay
Coolant dye: Any of these good? I want deep red. I don't think I'm doing UV so the darker the better.
http://www.xoxide.com/primochill-bloodred-dyebomb.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5784/ex-liq-37/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_-_Blood_Red.html

So far from what I've read, I should get 1/2" barbs and 3/8" tubing for a tighter fit?

[mDust]

OK, I'll do some more reading and get a revised parts list together tonight. Still looking for:
Temp monitor
Variable speed fans for case and rad
Variable speed fan controller for 5.25" bay
Coolant dye: Any of these good? I want deep red. I don't think I'm doing UV so the darker the better.
http://www.xoxide.com/primochill-bloodred-dyebomb.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5784/ex-liq-37/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_-_Blood_Red.html

So far from what I've read, I should get 1/2" barbs and 3/8" tubing for a tighter fit?

Are you looking for regular case fans or pwm fans? Any regular fan can be controlled by your everyday potentiometer-based controller. The pwm fans are the ones with the 4th wire and can be controlled with software such as speedfan (http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php).

As for the 3/8" tubing on 1/2" barbs...I think some water cooling old timer was having fun at the expense of some noobs if that was posted anywhere. I can only imagine how much of a PITA that would be to install.;) If you did do this, you'd have to heat the tubing as well as pre-stretch it (a lot) to fit. When it cools, it should be pretty water tight...but it's not going to be easy to disassemble your loop when needed. I'd highly recommend compression fittings instead of barbs. Yeah, they cost a couple bucks more per unit, but they minimize the risk of a leak while still being easy to setup and breakdown.

[Oneslowz28]

The lighting in my case is:

2 Blue LEDs in the Danger Den Res
2 12" UV CCFL tubes
1 1 meter NZXT Sleeved Led kit in blue
and my Crucial Ballistix Tracer Ram has blue leds on it that scan when the ram is being used.

Single bay res will be plenty for 1 loop. If running 2 loops go dual.

Go Yate Loon on the Rad fans.

3/8 tygon with 1/2" barbs is a must unless you like leaks.

Sentry 2 is nice. I have had 0 problems from mine.

My drain port is just a $5 PEX ball valve from lowes. On one side the coolant enters, on the other a danger den fill port is there so I can attach a barb with a long tube to it to drain into a bottle / bucket.

[Oneslowz28]

As for the 3/8" tubing on 1/2" barbs...I think some water cooling old timer was having fun at the expense of some noobs if that was posted anywhere. I can only imagine how much of a PITA that would be to install.;) If you did do this, you'd have to heat the tubing as well as pre-stretch it (a lot) to fit. When it cools, it should be pretty water tight...but it's not going to be easy to disassemble your loop when needed. I'd highly recommend compression fittings instead of barbs. Yeah, they cost a couple bucks more per unit, but they minimize the risk of a leak while still being easy to setup and breakdown.


We are not having fun with a noob. 3/8 tygon over 1/2" barbs is very common. Its what I run in my setup and I did not have to heat the tubing or "pre-streatch" it at all. It just takes a little elbow grease and they slip right on. They are a bitch to remove but that is the point of using 3/8 on 1/2" barbs. It allows you to not use clamps for a clean look. I have been running mine that way for almost a year now with no issues at all.


I want to touch on the Thermaltake Water Cooling issue that was brought up by spawn. Hes my friend but I have to disagree with him. The Thermaltake ProWater 850I kit that I have has been running 24/7 in my server for 1 year 3 months now. Copper Rad, Copper block, and aluminum res. I use the Thermaltake fluid like specified in the directions and it is showing no signs of corrosion at all. IMO the problems come when people use other fluids than the thermaltake fluid.

[Fuganater]

So considering everyone's comments here is what I have come up with:


Liquid Cooling Setup
Pump: DD-CPX-Pro (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html)
Reservoir: DD XSPC Single bay (http://www.dangerden.com/store/xspc-5.25-bay-reservoir-clear-silver-black.html)
Radiator: Black Ice GT Xtreme 280 Radiator (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9016/ex-rad-157/Black_Ice_GT_Xtreme_280_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s930)I would prefer 140mm Rad but all of them are over $100... anything good for the sub $100?
Rad Fans: Yate Loon's 140mm (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7596/fan-456/Yate_Loon_140mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_Medium_Speed_D14SM-12.html?tl=c15s775b119) (by popular demand lol)
CPU Water Block: Swiftech Apogee XT (R2) revision 2 (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swapxtrre2cp.html)
GPU Water Block: DD-Tieton (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-tieton-for-gtx280-260.html#tabs)
Tubing: Tygon 3603 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) Clear Tubing (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=22667) 15' just to be safe. There is like 4 different kinds of Tygon... is this the right one?
Liquid: Distilled water + PT Nuke-PHN (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html) and the dye below.
Liquid Dye: PrimoChill Blood Red DYEBOMB (http://www.xoxide.com/primochill-bloodred-dyebomb.html) or PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - Blood Red (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5784/ex-liq-37/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_-_Blood_Red.html) or something better?
Temp Indicator: I still want one. Ideas?
Fill Port: Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8338/ex-tub-439/Swiftech_12_Aluminum_Remote_Fill-Port_Fitting_-_Black_12FPF-AL.html?tl=c101s460b33)
Drain Port:
O-Rings: Some nice Red O-Rings (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12500/ex-tub-787/Bitspower_Deep_Bold_Red_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-WTP-010-DRD.html?tl=g30c407s1052#blank)


Other Items
System Fans: 200mm Cooler Master Mega Flow's for the top (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9775/fan-618/Cooler_Master_MegaFlow_200mm_x_30mm_Red_LED_Fan_Co smos_S_HAF_Series_ATCS_840_Storm_Sniper_R4-LUS-07AR-GP.html?tl=g36c331s857)
Fan Control: Sentry 2 (http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_2)
LED Kit: http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/case_accessories/sleeved_led_kit_-_red These LEDs look amazing.
PCI Slot replacemets: This (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25976) or this (http://www.amazon.com/Nexus-PCI-300-PCI-Ventilation-Brackets/dp/B00152ORTW). I want to paint them red.


Things needed
Figuring out a loop
How to add drain port (add to drawing of loop)
Type of paint to use



So far so good?

[Oneslowz28]

You will want your drain port as the lowest point in the loop. For me that meant adding a T to my intake on my pump. If you go my route, make sure you add an extra fitting for your drain tube that you will install when draining the loop. My drain tube is 18" long.

3603 tygon is correct I think.

What fittings are you planning on using? Dependent on the type, you may not see those fancy o rings.

[mDust]

We are not having fun with a noob. 3/8 tygon over 1/2" barbs is very common. Its what I run in my setup and I did not have to heat the tubing or "pre-streatch" it at all. It just takes a little elbow grease and they slip right on. They are a bitch to remove but that is the point of using 3/8 on 1/2" barbs. It allows you to not use clamps for a clean look. I have been running mine that way for almost a year now with no issues at all.

I wasn't implying that someone here posted the 'small tubing over larger fittings' idea, or that Fuganater or anyone else here was a noob. I've honestly never heard of people doing it. I googled it before posting and everyone that posted in the threads I looked at had to boil, stretch, or lubricate the tubing. You must have some really soft tubing to be able to just slip it on, as I've had enough trouble getting 3/8 tubing on 3/8 barbs without even considering another 1/8". Then again, if the tubing was that soft, it's probably a good idea to get larger barbs. I suppose it just depends on what tubing is used. I still recommend the compression fittings though...for any tubing.

[Spawn-Inc]

So considering everyone's comments here is what I have come up with:


Liquid Cooling Setup
Pump: DD-CPX-Pro (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-cpx_pro-12v_pump.html)
Reservoir: DD XSPC Single bay (http://www.dangerden.com/store/xspc-5.25-bay-reservoir-clear-silver-black.html)
Radiator: Black Ice GT Xtreme 280 Radiator (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9016/ex-rad-157/Black_Ice_GT_Xtreme_280_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s930)I would prefer 140mm Rad but all of them are over $100... anything good for the sub $100?
Rad Fans: Yate Loon's 140mm (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7596/fan-456/Yate_Loon_140mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_Medium_Speed_D14SM-12.html?tl=c15s775b119) (by popular demand lol)
CPU Water Block: Swiftech Apogee XT (R2) revision 2 (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swapxtrre2cp.html)
GPU Water Block: DD-Tieton (http://www.dangerden.com/store/dd-tieton-for-gtx280-260.html#tabs)
Tubing: Tygon 3603 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) Clear Tubing (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_414&products_id=22667) 15' just to be safe. There is like 4 different kinds of Tygon... is this the right one?
Liquid: Distilled water + PT Nuke-PHN (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/peptpcobi1.html) and the dye below.
Liquid Dye: PrimoChill Blood Red DYEBOMB (http://www.xoxide.com/primochill-bloodred-dyebomb.html) or PrimoChill Liquid Utopia - Blood Red (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5784/ex-liq-37/PrimoChill_Liquid_Utopia_-_Blood_Red.html) or something better?
Temp Indicator: I still want one. Ideas?
Fill Port: Swiftech 1/2" Aluminum Remote Fill-Port (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8338/ex-tub-439/Swiftech_12_Aluminum_Remote_Fill-Port_Fitting_-_Black_12FPF-AL.html?tl=c101s460b33)
Drain Port:
O-Rings: Some nice Red O-Rings (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12500/ex-tub-787/Bitspower_Deep_Bold_Red_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-WTP-010-DRD.html?tl=g30c407s1052#blank)


Other Items
System Fans: 200mm Cooler Master Mega Flow's for the top (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9775/fan-618/Cooler_Master_MegaFlow_200mm_x_30mm_Red_LED_Fan_Co smos_S_HAF_Series_ATCS_840_Storm_Sniper_R4-LUS-07AR-GP.html?tl=g36c331s857)
Fan Control: Sentry 2 (http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/fan_control/sentry_2)
LED Kit: http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/case_accessories/sleeved_led_kit_-_red These LEDs look amazing.
PCI Slot replacemets: This (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25976) or this (http://www.amazon.com/Nexus-PCI-300-PCI-Ventilation-Brackets/dp/B00152ORTW). I want to paint them red.


Things needed
Figuring out a loop
How to add drain port (add to drawing of loop)
Type of paint to use



So far so good?


vastly improved.

i would get the chrome fill port (link) (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8339/ex-tub-440/Swiftech_12_Brass_Remote_Fill-port_Fitting_-_Chrome_12FPF-CPB.html?tl=c101s460b33) as it's brass and there is no aluminum. you can get 2. one for the fill, one for the drain. you just need a simple shut off, eg a copper one from the hardware store and solder or screw on some barbs, again from the hardware store.


dye's should be avoided at all costs as they tend to clogg up blocks and stain tubing. your best bet is coloured tubing, primochill or feser make good tubing for that. if you really want dye, then i've heard that mayhems dye's haven't been reported to clogg. but it's only been out for a year or so. his site is down right now, so check later. http://www.wcdyes.com/

here is a good temp probe, you just need any lcd that can read/display tempature, http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8341/ex-tub-442/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_BP-WPT-CT.html

you can plug it into a free spot on the res if there is one. failing that simply buy a T like this, (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html?tl=g30c499s745) then get 2 barbs for it.


as for 3/8" tubing over 1/2" barbs, no. well it will work, but it's not fun and you will have to cut the tubing off which will be a pain when it comes time for maintenance. if you want a tighter fit, get 7/16" (ID)tubing over 1/2" barbs.


there is always a few that get away with thermal take setups with no issues, they have started to improve, but until the step up quality like koolance has, i will never recommend them or even think of using them in any of my loops.

[slaveofconvention]

Grr you lot have me thinking about watercooling again - BEHAVE!!!! lol

[Fuganater]

Grr you lot have me thinking about watercooling again - BEHAVE!!!! lol

HAHA. You have no idea how much time I'm putting into this. I really need some more guidance so I can buy the gear this week to have it next week. I lose my PC tomorrow night because I have to send my mobo back to XFX for a replacement.

Hopefully more people respond so I can get this build moving!

[slaveofconvention]

Yeah but I'm in the middle of a modding project in a case EASILY big enough for watercooling, albeit with some fairly hefty (but utterly do-able) chassis mods - and I have no spare money lol - when I GET some spare money, I want a 2600k setup so I'll STILL have no spare money....

Besides, with my luck, I'd end up flooding the house anyway :P

[diluzio91]

If you look at my FS thread i have compression fittings, 90* fittings, a fillport, and a bunch of other goodies that may save you some cash.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26125


Yeah but I'm in the middle of a modding project in a case EASILY big enough for watercooling, albeit with some fairly hefty (but utterly do-able) chassis mods - and I have no spare money lol - when I GET some spare money, I want a 2600k setup so I'll STILL have no spare money....

Besides, with my luck, I'd end up flooding the house anyway :P

i'll hook you up with some sweet stuff too SOC. i dont hate when it comes to shipping overseas. :D

[Fuganater]

If you look at my FS thread i have compression fittings, 90* fittings, a fillport, and a bunch of other goodies that may save you some cash.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26125



i'll hook you up with some sweet stuff too SOC. i dont hate when it comes to shipping overseas. :D

Thanks bud but you have nothing I want. Sorry.

[blaze15301]

I couldnt find a case good enough for me to use on my set up and how I wanted to expanded it without spending a small fortune on the case its self. So I just bought a techno front open air case but now I am out growing that as well. I'd say if you have big plans for your set up like dual 360 rads or bigger go with something open air. or a custom case.

edit: im sure someone already said it but that swifttech kit is pretty good. its basically a loop just not premade like the corsair one.

[Fuganater]

Update on parts:

Fan controller: Lamptron 20W - 4 Channel Aluminum Rheobus w/ Multi Color LED Display (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11218/bus-228/Lamptron_20W_-_4_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Multi_Color_LED_Disp lay_-_Black_FC-6.html#blank)
Temp Probe: Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8341/ex-tub-442/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_BP-WPT-CT.html#blank) There is a 1/4" stopper in the top of my bay. I could put this in after it is filled correct? And just disconnect my fill tube. If not I'll use this T connector (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5501/ex-tub-138/Danger_Den_Delrin_T-Fitting.html?tl=g30c499s745).
Inline temp probe?: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/inteseforaqa.html
Temp Display: I can't find any that aren't already prewired.
Dye: Mayhems Candy Red (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29127) It says it will stain over time but thats life. I don't plan on changing colors and if I do I'll buy new tubing.
Fill/Drain Ports: Swiftech 1/2" Brass Remote fill port (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8339/ex-tub-440/Swiftech_12_Brass_Remote_Fill-port_Fitting_-_Chrome_12FPF-CPB.html?tl=c101s460b33)
Barbs: Bitspower Matte Black G1/4" Barb Fitting (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9556/ex-tub-508/Bitspower_Matte_Black_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_BP-MBWP-C01.html?tl=g30c407s1030#blank)

[Fuganater]

I found this temp monitor too http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28836 Looks like the best one so far unless its a bad brand? Now to find a mount if its a good one.

I could do 2 of them. Here is the bracket http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28824 one on each side of the rad. Temp in and temp out.

One of these for the back of the case. http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12605/fan-824/Phobya_120mm_x_25mm_Nano-G_12_Silent_Waterproof_1500rpm_Multioption_Fan.htm l#blank

[Fuganater]

Found a ball valve: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_344&products_id=20601

[blaze15301]

you don't really want any sort of dye in your loop it will clog your blocks i have seen it happen many times. just run straight distilled water. get colored tubing. primochill is pretty good stuff.

[Spawn-Inc]

Update on parts:

Fan controller: Lamptron 20W - 4 Channel Aluminum Rheobus w/ Multi Color LED Display (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11218/bus-228/Lamptron_20W_-_4_Channel_Aluminum_Rheobus_w_Multi_Color_LED_Disp lay_-_Black_FC-6.html#blank)
Temp Probe: Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8341/ex-tub-442/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_BP-WPT-CT.html#blank) There is a 1/4" stopper in the top of my bay. I could put this in after it is filled correct? And just disconnect my fill tube. If not I'll use this T connector (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5501/ex-tub-138/Danger_Den_Delrin_T-Fitting.html?tl=g30c499s745).
Inline temp probe?: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/inteseforaqa.html
Temp Display: I can't find any that aren't already prewired.
Dye: Mayhems Candy Red (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=29127) It says it will stain over time but thats life. I don't plan on changing colors and if I do I'll buy new tubing.
Fill/Drain Ports: Swiftech 1/2" Brass Remote fill port (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8339/ex-tub-440/Swiftech_12_Brass_Remote_Fill-port_Fitting_-_Chrome_12FPF-CPB.html?tl=c101s460b33)
Barbs: Bitspower Matte Black G1/4" Barb Fitting (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9556/ex-tub-508/Bitspower_Matte_Black_G14_Barb_Fitting_-_12_ID_BP-MBWP-C01.html?tl=g30c407s1030#blank)

if your still going with that XSPC single bay, you will not be able to use the temp probe at the top for 2 reasons. 1. the top if the fill port, so water won't reach that height. 2. it's larger then g1/4 threading, however XSPC does sell an adapter to standard g1/4 threading, Link (http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-M20x1.5mm-to-G1-4-fillcap-adapter-pr-4205.html).

i wouldn't bother with multiple temp probes within your loop, there's not much you can do with that info.

and i still vote for no dye as well.

[Fuganater]

Thanks all for your help. I've put up the worklog :D

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=325533#post325533

[Spawn-Inc]

oh, i forgot to add that if your getting those barbs, i would step up to 1/2" tubing, it will be a hell of a bitch to get 3/8" over that. it was hard enough to get 7/16" over them.

it can be done though. i've seen 3/8 over the stock pump barbs on a mcp655 which are about as big.

the build came together nicely, can't wait for the pictures. can you update this thread.

[Oneslowz28]

<----- has 3/8" tygon over 1/2" DD Fatboys. Its much easier to do than most of you say. I did mine with out hot water. Just a little coolant as lube and they slip right on. It does take a little force but its not as bad as you guys say.

[Spawn-Inc]

<----- has 3/8" tygon over 1/2" DD Fatboys. Its much easier to do than most of you say. I did mine with out hot water. Just a little coolant as lube and they slip right on. It does take a little force but its not as bad as you guys say.

hmm.. ok well i raise you 7/16" over 1/2" copper pipes :) man that wasn't fun. it took me near 20 minutes to get 1 on WITH soap as a lube.

[Fuganater]

So I guess I should go with 7/16's (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8278/ex-tub-435/PrimoChill_PrimoFlex_PRO_LRT_Tubing_716ID_58_OD_wi th_332_Wall_-_UV_Red.html?tl=g30c99s809) tubing. I've done a bunch of research and it seems to be the way to go now a days.

[blueonblack]

Yes, but you can get it cheaper at Jab-Tech (http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pro-LRT-UV-Red-Tubing-7-16in.-ID-X-5-8in.-OD-pr-4424.html). :)

[Spawn-Inc]

Yes, but you can get it cheaper at Jab-Tech (http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pro-LRT-UV-Red-Tubing-7-16in.-ID-X-5-8in.-OD-pr-4424.html). :)

just not coloured :(

but yes, that's the same stuff i get and place. i have some in my loop that's almost 1.5 years old now.

i should order some more some time though and clean my loop out, i'm well over due.

[blueonblack]

just not coloured :(



Huh? That link was the same red tubing he linked to from FrozenCPU. Is it not red without UV?

[Spawn-Inc]

Huh? That link was the same red tubing he linked to from FrozenCPU. Is it not red without UV?

whoops, i assumed you were linking to masterkleer's 7/16" tubing from jabtech. i didn't realized jab was even selling any other brands in 7/16".

[Kayin]

Just an aside to the Mayhem's dyes, Mayhem was in a major car accident and has sold his entire business to iandh, who I know will do an excellent job of keeping it up. I don't believe the dyes he sold will separate-it looks a lot like an experiment I have hanging around here trying to force to separate.

Also, the rad/res/pump top combos are nice-I hooked one up to flush it and it's quite a good setup if you need to save space.

There's been good advice given here, but if you want to consolidate some of that space, one of the combos like I have can be gotten for a significant discount at Xoxide-I've spent more with them than any other vendor this build and I'm not displeased by any of it.

[Fuganater]

Thanks all for advice. I think I got a pretty good system now. Once I get my hardware and test it I'll order the WC items.

[SXRguyinMA]

just FYI the HAF-X will fit a 3x120 radiator in the top :D

[Fuganater]

just FYI the HAF-X will fit a 3x120 radiator in the top :D

Oh really? Will that cool better than a 2x140mm? Any reccomendations on a 3x120 if so?

[diluzio91]

I was under the impression that tha HAFx could fit a 3x140, i've only worked in the 932's though, so i would ask before you take my advice.

[Fuganater]

Man idk... I see that it will on some forums that a 3x140 will fit and that it won't... Can anyone here confirm?


Found this in my searching for the answer. Best HowTo ever imo - http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/water-cooling/33772-water-cooling-guide-beginners.html