1/2" ID Orange Tubing or Coolant

[Fuganater]

I've spent the last like hour looking but can't find 1/2" orange tubing anywhere.

If its unfindable I can always go down to 3/8" if I must.

I really want coolant too though because if Bitspower hooks me up with some clear acrylic WC parts I want to see the orange. The best thing I can find is http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7589/ex-liq-105/PrimoChill_ICE_Non-Conductive_Liquid_Cooling_Fluid_32_oz_-_UV_Brite_Orange.html?tl=g30c103s183#blank. I know everyone says no coolant and I say that too now but it will look SICK!

Huge +rep for helping

-Fuga

[Fuganater]

Thought I looked at Performance-PCs but I guess not...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30299

still looking for coolant though.

[DynamoNED]

Have you considered using tube coils in UV orange instead?

Crazy PC has some: http://www.crazypc.com/products/93270UHO.html

[Fuganater]

1. they are not back in business
2. none of the product links work.

[DynamoNED]

Oops! Sorry about that. I thought they were back open since the site was back up.

[Mach]

XSPC used to manufacture an orange/orange 1/2" tubing but I believe its discontinued.
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/378803-got-some-new-stuff-today-pics.html

They have a Redish-orange/orange 1/2" tubing available via
Dazmode (Never used them)
http://dazmode.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=82_84&products_id=1401

Watercooling UK
http://www.watercoolingshop.co.uk/1-2-ID-3-4-OD-High-flex-Red-UV-Orange-3m_AQHNL.aspx

and Aquatuning
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p2866_XSPC-tubing-PVC-19-13mm--1-2-ID--UV-active-red.html

[NightrainSrt4]

Every colored coolant I've used has either tinged my tubing or clumped dye in my blocks. Colored tubing ftw, but less options for color and/or size.

[Fuganater]

@Mach - thanks but those are UK sites and the Orange is pretty much a horrible looking Red. I've found good Orange tubing here in the states.

@NightainSrt4 - As I said up top. I am going to use Orange tubing but I also want Orange dye if these last 2 sponsorhips go through. If they don't then I probably won't WC the system. My part list is hefty but they seem interested.

I am willing to drain the system every 2-3 months. Thats not an issue here. Once I put in a good drain point it will be easy. Also all of the parts are going to be very very easy to get to because the case is so huge.

Thanks for all your help so far guys! Keep it coming.

[Konrad]

You cannot paint, tint, or dye colourless transparent tubes? Wrap (or shrink) tinted cellophane sheets onto them? Be a cheater and use coloured LEDs to emulate desired appearance?

[Fuganater]

Again the tubes are not the problem. Its the clear acrylic blocks.

[Konrad]

Transparent chunks look awesome when illuminated by coloured LEDs. A little abrasive on the edge planes can help distribute the light more evenly.

[Fuganater]

Transparent chunks look awesome when illuminated by coloured LEDs. A little abrasive on the edge planes can help distribute the light more evenly.

Sorry but I have no idea what you are talkig about...

[xr4man]

i think he's talking about illuminating the blocks with leds and sanding the edges to get a nice deep light distribution on the edges.

i think it's much easier said than done though.

[Konrad]

Google image search "LED acrylic" to see many examples of what I mean. Actually, it's not very hard at all ... lexan, plexi, styrene, and similar transparent plastics (and LED/lighting effects of same) are popular and much modding advice exists for working with these materials.

In short, these plastics are somewhat like glass, can generally be worked with the same sorts of cutting/drilling/tapping tools you'd use on wood or aluminum, can be curved or bent and have edges rounded through careful application of torch or heat gun ... they are fairly heavy/dense, their surfaces scratch easily (and are difficult to polish clean again), and they tend to crack around corners and holes. They can crack and shatter under impact/drop/stress conditions much like glass would. These disadvantages are not really significant if the plastics are internally mounted (as with some "subtle" TRON-style lighting props or in Merc Stealth keyboard illumination, for example), but these disadvantages can be a worrisome problem if the machine moves around a lot between sites (LAN party rig or whatever).

These plastics can be salvaged and reworked from all sorts of junk (which is, as often as not, thrown away simply because the plastic enclosure itself has somehow been damaged), and a few strategically placed illuminated scraps can go a really long way into pimping up a mod's appearance. I've achieved very pleasing results framing small PCBs, LCD panels, and knobs/buttons/switches with illuminated plastic strips cut from broken CD jewel cases, although thicker chunkier plastic blocks are far more dramatic. CD jewel cases, with busted "hinge" bits, zero cost item I tend to throw away. Large sheets of it can be moderately costly, partly because of fragile transport precautions. Care must be taken to avoid exposing these plastics to certain solvents, fumes, and cleaning agents which might haze or craze or otherwise deteriorate them.