New to modding, first case... ideas needed

[akzorz]

I have a inwin dragonslayer series case. I want to make something of it as it is also my first case i will be OC'ing. Here is what i have so far.

I have ram and back panel painted. I still have to do fans and am waiting on my EK water blocks and resivoir. I will be testing red and orange colors. The sheathing i will be using is mdpc's copper brown or color-x.

short video to come. In the mean time here is the case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811108236&cm_re=dragonslayer-_-11-108-236-_-Product

Got the case cause it gave me ideas an thought i could make something cool out of it, not cause it was expensive or nice.

My current computer has a thermaltake kendalf series case. Just so you know i'm not cheap. haha.

[Fuganater]

Welcome to TBCS!!!!

Please put up a worklog in the Worklog section. We would all love to see via pictures and videos of what you are doing.

[mDust]

Hi akzorz and welcome,

We definitely need some pics so we can see what's going on and possibly drool over it.

[akzorz]

Here is a short youtube clip of the computer and some ideas i have already. I am doing Copper Brown for sure. I have the computer up and running and my screen is good and looked at colors and it is the one i want for sure.

Just a heads up i am looking to make this rustic and do some painting on the outside as well as perhaps modding the case its self, like i mention replacing the mesh with chain mail and the sort.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Abc_B3AcdIc

[akzorz]

oh, and i added a post in the work log section.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=333295

[mDust]

I hate to complain since we love videos around here, but a little bit more lighting would help in future videos. A small, shaded lamp near the tower would help immensely, especially since the case is black.:up:

That said, were you planning on using actual chain-mail?..or a thicker chain-mail type mesh?
If you're going through the trouble of installing a TEC, I'd definitely make sure there is enough lighting inside to show that off.
Painting some of the individual parts with more 'rustic' colors as opposed to polished metal and bright colors might pull the theme together a little more.

How do you define 'rustic'? What materials do you consider rustic?

[akzorz]

well, first off it was 2:30 am when i took that last night, haha, and the lighting in our main room at night is terrible. I will get you some better footage. But for the time being, not too much had been done, so you didn't miss much. Haha. Anyway, rustic. I am thinking i want to do a sort of reign of fire look to it. Futuristic, but dragons returned and F***ed everything up. :)

[mDust]

Anyway, rustic. I am thinking i want to do a sort of reign of fire look to it. Futuristic, but dragons returned and F***ed everything up. :)

After you get it all painted, you could maybe carefully drag it around on concrete or something to make it look like a bit of wear and tear has occurred. Or paint some flat black 'char' onto parts of it.
Air brushing one of the dragons roasting something on the non-chain-mail side would be sweet.

I'm pretty sure it should shoot napalm as well, but I'm not going to describe that in detail to prevent lawsuits.:D Or if that's too bad ass for you, a dragon head snorting a little smoke could be cool.

I would suggest watching that movie again and taking notes on anything you feel is just too f***ing awesome not to incorporate somehow.

[akzorz]

mkay, i like the dragging idea, but dont want to drag it. did a lot of photoshop grunge brush creations, and i think i can incorporate some of that into it. I am putting the Dragon Slayer in that gothic font on the other side of the case. I think i am going to do that in a metallic "hammered" Copper and some grunge to it on the other side. I like the idea of flames or something on the other side, but i dont want it to look cheezy.

[akzorz]

and hey Dust, GL on your project. It looks like its gonna be a doozy! Just went to the local elec. store and there was a guy who just finished his full submersive. I can try and send you his way if you would like.

[mDust]

mkay, i like the dragging idea, but dont want to drag it. did a lot of photoshop grunge brush creations, and i think i can incorporate some of that into it. I am putting the Dragon Slayer in that gothic font on the other side of the case. I think i am going to do that in a metallic "hammered" Copper and some grunge to it on the other side. I like the idea of flames or something on the other side, but i dont want it to look cheezy.

Ok, I see you don't want to over do it. The napalm doesn't have to be real napalm...a can of starting fluid and an electrical spark would work! Still no? Ah well, I'll shelve that idea for later. Don't be jealous when fire-breathing computers become all the rage and you don't have one!:D

I wasn't suggesting cheesy flames, I was suggesting awesome flames...flames that you can show off to friends and be proud of. :twisted:

Were you into the whole dragon thing or you just want the beat-up, rustic look that is accociated with that movie?

[akzorz]

I want the dragon thing and the rustic look just seemed to go flawlessly. Like this case had survived through the war of Dragons cause it was just that B.A.

[akzorz]

and what i meant, don't want it to look cheesy is, you can have sick flames, but if they just aren't in the right spot or you over do them, they just look lame and dumb.

[Fuganater]

Sounds like you need to look into some aging techniques.

[xr4man]

for aging references, you could do a bit of research on weathering model trains. the techniques used are quite simple.

[akzorz]

tyvm xr4man, sounds like the right track... no pun intended. :)

[xr4man]

i was into model railrodaing for a while and would like to get back. the weathering techniques those guys use make things look so realistic it's "unreal" lol. and like i said, they are quite easy to do, just takes a bit of practice to get it to look just right. then you spray everything with a "dulling" clear coat (i can't remember exactly what it's called). but that gives all the colors a washed out and well used look. the saying "less is more" is definitely true with weathering techniques.

[akzorz]

awesome, i live like 20 mins from a model rail road shop and will go check it out. Also, going to go get a soldering iron tomorrow. Wellington is a brand that seems to be recommended?

Any ideas for intro, but capable of doing some good work, soldering irons?

[mDust]

awesome, i live like 20 mins from a model rail road shop and will go check it out. Also, going to go get a soldering iron tomorrow. Wellington is a brand that seems to be recommended?

Any ideas for intro, but capable of doing some good work, soldering irons?

I honestly don't do a ton of soldering, but the only thing I would look for is an iron with easily replaceable tips. They are a stupidly simple tool by design and I've never seen one break or unable to do a proper job...with the exception of the first one I bought which would not let go of a damaged tip. I can't recommend buying an expensive brand name.
I would recommend a little stand with a sponge...they're cheap, save a bit of time, and prevent incidental damage to your work and work area.

[akzorz]

sounds good. I Go climbing every Monday, but i should have some time in between, so i might try to go pick one up then. Anyway, i will keep you all updated with pics etc.

[xr4man]

i would recommend spending a bit more than just going out and getting the $25 radioshack solder iron. yes they are cheap and yes the tips are cheap and easy to replace, but if you spend a bit more and get a quality solder station, you will be way happier. the radioshack solder irons take forever to heat up and then the tips wear out very quickly, even with proper maintenance.

i would suggest this one http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/product-detail.aspx?pn=131-185

it's only 50 bones and weller is a quality name to go with. plus you can get all the parts individually if anything stops working. it's definitely a tool that you will be happy to keep around for a long long time.


i would also recommend getting some solder that uses water soluble flux. that makes clean up very easy. you just take your circuit board over to the sink and scrub it with a plastic bristle brush and soapy water, then let it dry out.

[akzorz]

so i replied, or so i thought, but must have hit advanced. Anyway, it looks great! I'm getting it tomorrow. Now, LED's.. Should i just go to Ebay or some other shop online. I need about 10 orange redish leds. Maybe more. So, if i can get 20 or so for a good price i might just go with that. Lastly, anyone recommend some paint for doing my Ram?

[Fuganater]

LEDs are cheap. LEDSHOPPE.com

[akzorz]

got my Weller, some LEDs to test out and a couple of other things for soldering.
:)
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/4091/optimized.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/64/optimized.jpg/)

My sleeving should be here tomorrow. Have the day off so i can work on that.

Gonna go to radio shack today to pick up a printed circuit board to practice with soldering and the sort on. Wish me luck! haha.

[akzorz]

Oh, and i checked out ledshoppe.com, and i cant decide between the amber, orange or red. I have red and orange dye for my LC, but its UV reactive, so i would like to utilize that as well. So, i need uv LEDs? :-\ Anywhoo, much better price there than at radioshack or Microcenter. The three amber LEDs i picked up to try were $1.49. Haha, lame.

[xr4man]

the main thing to remember when soldering is to melt the solder on what you are soldering, not on the tip of the solder iron. that's the easiest way to keep from making a cold solder joint.

good luck with the soldering. you'll be much happier with that weller than if you had got a radio shack solder iron.

[akzorz]

It worked great, just want a new smaller tip. The one it comes with is kinda bulky. Idk. Anywhoo, it did a great job and I made a little project kit with it to try my hand at soldering and de-soldering. I even got to test out my leds I am going to go with for the mod on the front LEDS. Or so i think... I want to use some UV LEDs... so idk if these will work, gotta look into that more. :? Anyway here are some pics. :)

My first solder job!?
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/4523/20110721170738.jpg


The Kit....
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/6408/20110721170712.jpg

With new LED (amber orange)
http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/5448/20110721171823.jpg

Anywhoo, i like the color. I found some UV leds for decently cheap, but i have to buy 1000 of them so, if anyone wants some uv leds let me know. Haha . I might just go to ebay, but maybe not. Anyway, gonna just mix and match i guess.

Cheers, and until later.

Akzorz

[akzorz]

Real fast, ebayed some leds, i dont need 1000 of them, nor do i want to sell them, so i am doing the $3 and free shipping deal, haha. I get 50 so it should be plenty.

[Fuganater]

Real fast, ebayed some leds, i dont need 1000 of them, nor do i want to sell them, so i am doing the $3 and free shipping deal, haha. I get 50 so it should be plenty.

Sounds like a China deal. FYI those types of things take 5-6 weeks for you to receive your product. They are good though. I've bought things and it was well worth the wait.

[xr4man]

not necessarily. i got a cheap ass deal like that from a place that was in canada.

that solder work looks great. even better than most jobs i've seen experienced engineers do. good job.

[billygoat333]

www.ledshoppe.com is my favorite place to order LEDs. Cheap, and the shipping really doesn't take too long considering it comes from Hong Kong. Usually takes ~2 weeks.

[diluzio91]

i'll second LEDshoppe.... 8 bucks and free shipping for 100 leds? no brainer.

[akzorz]

meh, mine were cheap and should be fine. And ty for the complement on the soldering. :)

I am supposed to be sleeving right now, but i dont know where they are! havent gotten the package yet!?

[akzorz]

Woot, sleeving came!!! I have my monday set out for me ! :D

[akzorz]

Been sleeving, and things are going well. I am going to just going to remove the "quick" attach things and just connect the cables directly into the PSU its self.

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/4005/firstsleeve.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/firstsleeve.jpg/)

This is why. All of the "easy connect" things are glued and soldered

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/2007/dsc0157pk.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/8/dsc0157pk.jpg/)