Project: Retromod Project

[Mach]

I am new to the world of case mods but figured that I'd dive in with a nod to Mashie's Anemone project. I've alway liked the idea of stealth computers and the retro look of old radios. So this vintage radio will become a stealth media PC for my mp3s and movies.

It will be built around a fanless ITX motherboard with a Lilliput touchscreen embedded behind the speaker grill. I need to do some more research on how to roll up and down the speaker grill and interface the knobs on the front but I'm pretty excited. Guaranteed to be a steep learning curve. :)

http://tinypic.com/2npv2s

[MrSlacker]

thats gonna be very cool! make sure to post a lot of pics!

[Zeus]

Looking forward to updates on the progress on this one

[Mach]

Thanks! I'll be sure to include pics as things progress. Just waiting on parts now and a few other projects to finish up.

[Guttenaffe]

I have a liliput 8" touchscreen, need some exact measurment before you order?

Or you going with a diffrent size?

edit:
If you haven't bought it yet I'd recomend to watch case-mod.com 's e-bay auctions I've seen them sell um for $245 buy-it-now

I won mine from them for 248.50 and then 3 days latter they had them on BuyitNow for $245.00

Now there is one up to $150 with little over 2days left at the time of this update.

Normally they have tham for ~$255 for buyitnow, if I was to bid on it, I wouldn't pass that price, heck I don't think I'd go over $245...

[Frakk]

are you complaining about couple dollars with a $250 purchase? :) they can charge you more on shipping and taxes.

[Guttenaffe]

Sure am, I'm cheep like that :D

[Frakk]

yeah ure not the first one ive seen either. sometimes it makes me wonder... :D

[Mach]

Thanks Guttenaffe, I'll keep a watch for them. The speaker opening is 6x4.5" so the 7" is perfect size. I need to get the LCD first but I'm hoping I can fit a DVD drive and a couple of ports in there also.

[Guttenaffe]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5767481546 $250 for the two-tone

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5185955559 $259 for the black

compaired to their retail price of http://www.case-mod.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=1201&osCsid=75d1b3010ef0a1a476f29049b1364769 $274.95 for the black and http://www.case-mod.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=109_110&products_id=922&osCsid=75d1b3010ef0a1a476f29049b1364769 $269.96 for the two-tone

If you buy one from them try the Cupon code LILLIPUT03 see if it'll give you the $15 off. :)

[Mach]

Gah, hard to believe over a year has past since I last posted an update. :eek: It seems everytime I start making progress, life intervenes. I was holding off posting until I got the roll up door sorted but I expect life to hold up progress again in a couple of weeks so what the heck.

Where to start? System specs first...

Bakelite radio - 1948 Stromberg Carlson 1204
Motherboard - Mini-Itx Via SP8000 - 800 Mhz
Ram - 512MB
HD - 80GB Sata
DVD - Panasonic UJ845B
Video - Onboard VGA & GeForce MX4000 128MB TV/DVI
Display - Xenarc 700TSV 7" Touchscreen
Interface - Phidgets USB encoders & Robotlogic servo tester
Gyration wireless keyboard and mouse
Fan - 92mm Nexus fan undervolted
Network - Linksys WUSB54GP-BP

Design Challenges
1) Stealth mod - I want to keep changes to the radio's external appearance to a minimum
2) Small case - 14"x10"x8" makes for a very tight fit for a touchscreen, motorized door, motherboard and DVD even with mini-itx. Will the DVD fit or no?
3) Motorized door - Ever since I saw Crimsonsky's Doom 3 mod I wanted to do this and with the extra knob on the front, why not?
4) Materials - Brass/Copper/Styrene
5) Soldering & Electronics - I've always wanted to learn. Now is as good a time as any.

On to the mod pr0n

[simon275]

OMG

I'm seeing double another old school radio's getting the chop.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3286

Any way yeah this looks cool. An old radio that acutally has a media center inside it. Nice.

[Mach]

Before the tear down
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/7482/img18088ct.th.jpg (http://img158.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img18088ct.jpg)

Pretty amazing! This was cutting edge 60 years ago.
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/2169/img18121tf.th.jpg (http://img158.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img18121tf.jpg)

Old motherboard meet new motherboard :)
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/5876/img18209cz.th.jpg (http://img158.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img18209cz.jpg)http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/9460/img18469cj.th.jpg (http://img56.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img18469cj.jpg)

I thought this was great. The dial indicator moves back and forth on pulleys and string!
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/1365/img18263tp.jpg

[Mach]

After much prototyping, I finally decided to create a styrene shell inside the bakelite case. The shell will give me a surface to glue and screw to without trashing the bakelite.

This is the mockup of the shell in sketchup. Sketchup rocks BTW. I still can't figure out how to draw the compound angles of the radio itself but I'm winging it.

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1324/shell2lt.th.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=shell2lt.jpg)

I was originally planning to have the back plane sticking out back but it was a little too long and I really didn't like the idea of having a vga cable going back into the case. The only problem with the new orientation will be making the door tracks and dvd drive fit. I was actually contemplating re-locating the vga connector on the mother board but common sense prevailed.

I figured the motorized door would give me the most problems so that's where I started. I took apart the Xenarc monitor and saw this:

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1093/img18396op.th.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img18396op.jpg)

Ack, what have I done? I immediately put it back together to make sure I hadn't broken it. I hadn't. I took it apart again and began further disassembly. I need the LCD to be completely hidden in the case so I can't have any power wires sticking out of the case. I found a few postings over at MP3Car forums that showed people modding lilliput monitors to run off of 12v dc. I figured I could do the same.
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9776/img20650nq.th.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img20650nq.jpg)

The red and black wires are the ones that I soldered on to allow me to hook to the power supply. The grey wire is the remote IR detector that I'll need to mount in the case. I've got a USB wiring diagram for the Xenarc so I'll be modding the usb connector so that I can take it directly to the motherboard. I'll also have to mod the VGA cable as it's an all-in one cable with USB and VGA combined with a weird connector on the lcd side. I'm in the process of hacking the cable apart to figure out pinouts.

The original lcd bezel and case won't fit in the radio case so I built one. First is a brass bezel to hold the lcd and touch screen.

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/8674/img20569hv.th.jpg (http://img70.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img20569hv.jpg)

This was my first time soldering brass and wow, was it frustrating. The brass is such a good heat sink that it was tough to keep the other joint's solder from melting. Google to the rescue and I wrapped the other joints in a wet paper towels to keep them from melting. I also found out that folks aren't kidding when they say physically and chemically clean. I had a terrible time getting the solder to flow. I finally found the following steps worked well:

1) Sand lightly with emery cloth
2) Clean with white spirits
3) Flux, flux, flux
4) Pre-tin the parts (This was key)
5) Clamp and heat

It was alot of trial and error but I was pleased with the end result. If I was to do it again, I'd use solder paste instead of silver solder. Solder paste I discovered after I had finished the bezel and it's very cool stuff.

For the case to go around the bezel and lcd, I used styrene. I hadn't used it before but Crimsonsky's book gave some good instructions on it and I found this book which gave me some more details.

http://www.modelrailroadingmag.com/html/styrene_modeling.htm

I used 1.5mm black styrene and Zap glue with Kicker. Here's the case before paint. You can see that I got carried away with the glue. I definately learned that less is more with Zap glue. Also a mini-syringe filled with kicker works alot better than a toothpick.

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/1240/img20892rd.th.jpg (http://img103.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img20892rd.jpg)http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/5549/img20869eo.th.jpg (http://img103.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img20869eo.jpg)

[ardyandkari]

OMG

I'm seeing double another old school radio's getting the chop.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3286

Any way yeah this looks cool. An old radio that acutally has a media center inside it. Nice.


thats cause old skools the best skools!!!:D

[ardyandkari]

Gah, hard to believe over a year has past since I last posted an update. :eek: It seems everytime I start making progress, life intervenes. I was holding off posting until I got the roll up door sorted but I expect life to hold up progress again in a couple of weeks so what the heck.

Where to start? System specs first...

Bakelite radio - 1948 Stromberg Carlson 1204
Motherboard - Mini-Itx Via SP8000 - 800 Mhz
Ram - 512MB
HD - 80GB Sata
DVD - Panasonic UJ845B
Video - Onboard VGA & GeForce MX4000 128MB TV/DVI
Display - Xenarc 700TSV 7" Touchscreen
Interface - Phidgets USB encoders & Robotlogic servo tester
Gyration wireless keyboard and mouse
Fan - 92mm Nexus fan undervolted
Network - Linksys WUSB54GP-BP

Design Challenges
1) Stealth mod - I want to keep changes to the radio's external appearance to a minimum
2) Small case - 14"x10"x8" makes for a very tight fit for a touchscreen, motorized door, motherboard and DVD even with mini-itx. Will the DVD fit or no?
3) Motorized door - Ever since I saw Crimsonsky's Doom 3 mod I wanted to do this and with the extra knob on the front, why not?
4) Materials - Brass/Copper/Styrene
5) Soldering & Electronics - I've always wanted to learn. Now is as good a time as any.

On to the mod pr0n


hey...if you want a completely silent, teeny tiny 'puter look at the damnsmalllinux web page...the computers arent powerful at all and i think that the only way to effectively use them would be to use dsl, but man that crap is cool!!! i wish i had the $$$ to make one... (sure its only a couple hundred bucks, but still...........)

btw this is not an advertisement, im just saying this because he wants to put so much stuff in there, and this is the smallest system ive seen...but still...looks cool man...keep postin pics.

[blue73]

I still say make it glow that lovely orangey yellow like you get from valve amps... Mmmmm valve amps;)

[DaveW]

Pretty amazing! This was cutting edge 60 years ago.

It's still cutting edge for Microsoft. They test their OS's on one of those. Vista is 101% Bakelite compatible.

-Dave

[Mach]

ardyandkari:
I considered linux but I wanted to use phidgets which at the time didn't support linux. They do now. I'll likely stick with XP. Given how long it's taken me to get his far, the motherboard will likely be obsolete by the time I'm done anyway ;)

blue73:
Keep watching and you'll get valve amp goodness.

DaveW:
Only in Vista Ultimate. Vista Home Basic Premium and Media support Catalin, aluminum, and plastic but no bakelite, IIRC. :p

simon275:
Thanks, yah, ardyandkari's mod was what made me get off my butt and start posting some progress.

[blue73]

ardyandkari:
I considered linux but I wanted to use phidgets which at the time didn't support linux. They do now. I'll likely stick with XP. Given how long it's taken me to get his far, the motherboard will likely be obsolete by the time I'm done anyway ;)

blue73:
Keep watching and you'll get valve amp goodness.

DaveW:
Only in Vista Ultimate. Vista Home Basic Premium and Media support Catalin, aluminum, and plastic but no bakelite, IIRC. :p

simon275:
Thanks, yah, ardyandkari's mod was what made me get off my butt and start posting some progress.


Cool can't wait. Two big thumbs up!!

[Mach]

Hacked the Usb connector so the touch screen can be connected directly to the MB header
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a213/akbarber/IMG_2437.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a213/akbarber/IMG_2439.jpg

Mounted in the bezel
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a213/akbarber/IMG_2445.jpg

[Mach]

From the Sketchup mockup, I put together the inner shell with 2mm sytrene and Zap glue. I cut out the knob holes and drilled the holes for the right hand knobs which are going to be for volume and scrolling.

The shell is a little too tight around the back edge but as I'm planning on lining the inside with perforated metal, it should straighten the buckling that's occuring.


http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/926/img24840qn.jpg

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/3079/img24873zf.jpg

http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/7062/img24818yw.jpg

http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/2310/img24925jo.jpg

I included a shot against a ruler to show how small the case is.
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4673/img24959bf.jpg

http://img313.imageshack.us/img313/5908/img24916vv.jpg

[DaveW]

Nice model! I can't seem to find Styrene anywhere in Glasgow...need to wait till i've passed my driving test before i can get my hands on some...anyway, looks like a pretty sweet fit. What are you planning to put in that hardware-wise?

-Dave

[Mach]

Thanks Dave. It'll be a mini-itx based system with an epia SP8000. It's 800mHz and fanless with 512 mb ram. Not extreme but will mostly will be used for music and decoding movies stored in a 1.1 TB Infrant ReadyNAS. I'll likely replace the epia with Aopen's i945GTt-VFA when (and if) it becomes available. I really wish that I would have waited on buying the motherboard as there are more options now in the SFF arena.

The OS will be loaded on a 80GB 2.5" SATA drive with the HTPC software. I was planning on using Meedio with Girder for the controls but looks like its been sold to Yahoo so not sure what I'll use now.

Not sure on Glasgow, but 4D modelshop in London ships styrene.

[jestyyr]

interesting mod so far, cannot wait to see how it goes.
how well does the styrene deal with even a sff pcs heat? was under the impression it would warp at under 100 deg C temps? or have you already planned for that/tested it?
where the heck do you people find those radios? I am definitely going to have to start raiding second hand stores when I see them.
Dave flick through your phone book to toys/models toy stores (at least over in Aus) that deal in a lot of model vehicles etc tend to deal in plastic sheets, though they may not know what it is or call it by its real name, some even also stock plastic rods/I beams and similar stuff. Model/model train stores are probably also a good place to look.

[Mach]

I don't expect internal temperatures to get as high as 100C but I will be lining the back panel of the radio with perforated metal to help dissipate heat and beside, it looks cool. I was able to find some wild screen material in brass and steel from a radiator cover store. I'm also adding an undervolted case fan to keep the temps down.

I bought the radio from ebay from the US. The ones in Europe go for about 3x as much but if you can find a radio repair store, they sometimes have cases with no guts that are much cheaper. I bought a series of radios until I found one that had the right dimensions and look. I've got enough retro radios and appliances now that I can keep modding for a good long time. :D Just need the time now...

[isunktheship]

The touch screen is going to be an excellent tou-... addition. Looking great, I'm really interested in a mod with a touch screen.

[Mach]

Thanks isunktheship and DaveW (just noticed the front page post) and since you're watching, here's an update...

One of the big requirements for the mod is the sliding door that covers the speaker hole (on top).

http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/7482/img18088ct.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

I ordered about 10 different pieces of grill cloth from where else? http://www.grillecloth.com. I wanted to use something close to the orginal cloth to increase the stealthiness of the mod.

I wandered around the local hobby store looking for something that was flexible enough to take a 90 degree bend but rigid enough to provide a backing for the cloth. Eureka, I thought I had found it with this:

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/187/ww275870zdi9.jpg

Smoother AND more flexible how could I go wrong?

But after several failed prototypes, I had to go back to the drawing board and the TBCS archives for inspiration. I went back and looked at Crimsonsky's Doom3 mod. (Anybody heard from Paul lately BTW?)

If I've interpreted the pics correctly, he made a hinge joint at each piece of styrene for his sliding door. I had a couple brass piano hinges lying around that I started playing with, which led to the following mockup in Visio:

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/538/grillpatternpn1.jpg

The yellow is brass and the orange is copper. So back to the hobby store for 3.3 mm brass & copper tube and 3mm brass rod. As no mod is really complete without the mandatory purchase of tools:

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/6900/27160lk7.jpg

The proxxon chop saw went through them like the proverbial but-tah. In a few minutes, the brass and copper where reduced to bit sized pieces and metal powder.

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/4757/img2146eaq2.jpg

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/7883/img2149ekv3.jpg

Shiny, no?

Regarding that metal powder, I'll interupt the update for a public service announcement. Crimsonsky warns in his book (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0789731924/102-6702734-8086538?v=glance&n=283155) that metal can be nasty to work with. Without proper protection, (air fiter mask and gloves), you run the risk of eye and sinus infections. Lest you think that I am preaching, let me be the first to stand and say "Hi my name is Mach and I'm a doofus." :rolleyes:

Yup, sinus infection and pink eye (yes, I saw the SP episode, thanks :)). Whether it was due solely to the metal or not, I'm not sure but I now wear latex gloves and breathing mask when working with this stuff.

[/PSA]

Next update, get your crepe pan reflow stations working, cuz we're going to solder.

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/7833/img2202eiy7.jpg

[Mach]

Another quick update...

I'm really into the idea of the copper/brass door but after my first try at soldering the brass bezel for the touch screen, I was not looking forward to soldering 100 pieces of brass copper tubing let alone cutting them individually. So I figured I'd reverse the process with cutting first and soldering.

I found a discussion on a hot plate/skillet reflow station when searching for How-To's on soldering

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7392/hotplatereflow1mi4.jpg (http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorial/ReflowToaster/reflow-hotplate.htm#Hot-Plate)

and voila, inspiration in hand, I took a crepe pan that I had from when I lived in France and created my own soldering reflow station. It worked much better than I expected. The internet is a beautiful thing.

I ordered some heat tape and solder paste from Chronos. (http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Carrs_Solders___Fluxes___etc_189 .html&CatalogBody) This version of solder paste melts at 179C and the tape melts somwhere around 400C.

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/6904/hottapehd8.jpghttp://img119.imageshack.us/img119/3092/soldercreamfd0.jpg

Keeping with the soldering requirements of mechanically and chemically clean, I sanded the tubes with steel wool and then cleaned them with alcohol. (Yes, wearing latex gloves the entire time)

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/6990/img2145ehz6.jpg

I then taped them 2x, alternating brass and copper and filled the gap with solder paste.

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/7113/img2166exf5.jpg

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/9312/img2162efo4.jpg

And then laid them all out on the crepe pan, cranked it to 11 and watched.

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/5014/img2162e2pb2.jpg

5 minutes in things started to get interesting with smoke and stink. I flipped the stove hood to high and opened all the windows.

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/1835/img2187ezn3.jpg

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/310/img2184ehm9.jpg

And then success, the solder went from dull grey to shiny and then wicked into the gap between the rods.

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/8886/img2195epr8.jpg

I left them on a little longer to make sure everything was uniform and then poured some water on the crepe pan to slowly cool the tubes so they didn't twist.

Here are the rods after removing the tape, sanding and cleaning up the excess solder. I probably could have used a little less solder but I was very pleased with the results.

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/9527/img2213efa6.jpg

Then I cut each double rod in 6 pieces but they were not exactly the same size. So I bundled them together with a rubber band, and epoxied them together. Using a flat file and a hand sander, I evened up the ends so the rods were the same size.

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4086/img2239eob0.jpg

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4750/img2246elq6.jpg

I then pried them apart to get ready for more cleanup which involved dumping them into a jar of acetone to dissolve the epoxy. (The pound coin is about the same size as US nickel but thicker)

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4118/img2250eqm6.jpg

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/9357/img2251eir5.jpg

I'll shoot some more pictures of the finished product as I don't have any pics post clean-up.

[OvRiDe]

WOW!! Very informational! Looking forward to seeing the end result on that door!!

[javafiend]

That's some really nice work with the brass and copper and I really like how clean your cuts look on the styrene. Keep up the good work!

[Mach]

Thanks javafiend and OvRiDe. I've got some more work to post but its a couple steps forward and one step back on progress.

First a follow-up on my last post, here's a photo of the finished tubes. I had pieced them altogether on long rods so I could polish them but haven't soldered them as "hinges" yet.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/8504/img2620ebv1.jpg

The reason that I am stalling is that I was waiting on more progress on the door tracks before finishing the door so I'd know exactly how long to make the pin rods. But I've hit a wall.

Below you can see, the results of several of my failed efforts. The pieces are brass with the exception of the silver which is aluminum. I'm trying to bend them at 90 degree angle similar to what Crimson sky did on the Doom 3 mod or almost the same as a garage door track only much smaller. The track width is about 5mm or smaller.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9969/img2609efv8.jpg

I've tried filling with hot glue, sand, and salt. I've tried heating and clamping but cannot get a good bend without crimping or twisting. I've bought a bag of wood's metal but don't think it will yield any different results.

I'm going back to the drawing board on the track. I'm considering water cutting at this point but I think I'll wait until I put the rest of the case together before I decide on the final configuration of the tracks. I may more than just a 90 degree bend to work around the case internals. If anyone has any ideas on how I could make the track bends, I'd appreciate the help.

Unable to complete the track and the door at this point, I started working on the add-on bits that are going inside the case besides just the motherboard. As I want the system self contained, I'm adding a wireless mouse/keyboard and wireless network adapter both of which are powered via USB. The plan is to also put a USB hub inside (discreetly hidden of course).

For the "idea" to work, I need to hack apart both usb adapters. The mouse/keyboard destruction went well as did the network adapter. Whew, both still worked even after shedding their plastic skins.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/7192/img2580emr7.jpg

Unfortuately, the soldering to the network adapter did not go well. I succeeded in breaking one of the fiddly wires and then lifting the associated pcb trace trying to desolder it. I should have a replacement next week and will be sure to hot glue down the wires this time.

Why am I even trying to solder it in the first place? This should give you a little idea of what I'm trying to do.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/526/img2629eoq0.jpg

That's the mouse/keyboard adapter. I'm going to be tied up with work this week but I'll post more on the tube when I have chance. Let me know if you have any ideas on the tracks. Thanks!

[GT40_GearHead]

dude can you tell me the size of the bras rail, i mean the size of the wall, the size of the interiosr space, al you can get, AND the radius of the bend maybe i can help you(my dad is working on something like this)

[Mach]

The H beam in the picture is 0.5mm thick by 4mm square. The aluminum is 1mm thick by 6mm square the rectangular channel is 1mm thick by 10mm by 6 mm.

I was originally planning on a 90 degree bend with a 7" standing vertical and 7" horizontal but I'll likely need 7" standing vertical by 4" horizontal by 3" downturn.

Like this |_i

I'll sketch-up something later this week. Thanks!

[Rankenphile]

This is a fantastic project. Keep up the great work!

[GT40_GearHead]

this what i got out of him:D
he says you should make a lot of SMAL cuts an the interiosr of the bendbend it and then solder it so it doesn't lose its stiffness, let me sketch you something so you can get what I say

just a sec

[GT40_GearHead]

hope you can see something:(

dad said you should make the cuts be hand, dont use cuting disks, or if you have a band saw use that

i think this is youre best bet i dont see any other way :?

<edit>
detailes: one long cut one short cut, the long cut goes all the way to the second wallhttp://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g209/GT40_GearHead/e0f55ef2.jpg

[Mach]

Thanks GT40. I understand what you're saying about relief cuts but I'm not sure I have the skills/tools to make two tracks that are consistently the same bend(s). I have a jewelers saw and a coping saw with metal blades that might be thin enough. I need to do some more thinking and maybe try some prototypes. Thanks for checking it out for me though.

Thanks Rankenphile, I should be able to get a few more updates in before I have to put the project on the back burner for awhile. I'm going to be moving again in a few weeks...this time back to the US.

[GT40_GearHead]

to make two tracks that are consistently the same bend(s)

a solution could be to stick the two rods togeder (solder, clamps...) and cut the both, and if you have a jewelers saw you are in business

[Mach]

I've done some more work but not much in the way of updates as I'm busy at work with a new job.

I thought I'd give a quick update on where I'm at right now as everything is going into storage for the next month or so.

I last left this mod talking about the tube amps. Here's the break down on what I did. I did get the new USB wireless key (not shown) and it was much easier to take apart than the last. It looks like it will work perfectly in the existing tubes.

For the tubes, I'm trying to make them look like old style tubes or valves. The metal is made from 1" copper pipe fittings, the glass is 1" acrylic tube, and the spacers are made from 1/4" plexiglass. The idea of the spacers is to diffuse the light from the network activity lights. I'm also tapping into the USB lines to power an orange led.

On to the mod pictures:

Copper fitting, note the silver solder
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9468/img2533ln5.jpg

Fitting with the end cutoff. Once I cut the solder ring on one side, it dropped right out of the fitting.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3650/img2539au9.jpg

Making almost a perfect fit for the acrylic tube (I love it when the breaks go my way!)
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8369/img2545ij1.jpg

Same treatment for the copper cap
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/8621/img2553az9.jpg

Test fit of the copper and the acrylic tube
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3193/img2554de8.jpg

Then to make the spacers, I scored and snapped 3 pieces of plexiglass and chucked them in a drill.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/3694/img2564yh7.jpg

Using a dremel, I shaped them to the right size to fit inside the acrylic tube. The drill turned them to keep them round and the dremel cut the excess away.
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/9086/img2573vr8.jpg

The final pieces, cleaned and polished. I sprayed the copper with some lacquer to reduce the tarnishing.
http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/9749/img2633yq8.jpg

While I was waiting on the new wireless key, I started the interface controls for the radio knobs. This is for the on/off/standby knob. The first relay will be connected to the motherboard power header. The second will be used for the reset header. The capacitor and resistor allows only a momentary pulse to the motherboard to simulate a momentary switch.
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/8134/img24327jq.jpg

The right two knobs will be used for volume and selection for music and movies (I'm planning on using Girder for the interface). I'm using Phidgets usb controls that I cut down smaller. As space is tight, I'm trying very hard to keep it as small as possible. I had to grind down the brass knobs to fit the d slot of the original knobs. I then soldered them to veroboard and jumpered wires to the phidgets control boards. You can never have to much hot glue. :)
http://img245.imageshack.us/img245/3325/img2479mj7.jpg

Here's how it will look with the controls mounted in place. The pipes on the side are used to hide the usb cables as they exit the control box.
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/7673/img2446db7.jpg

And from outside of the shell.
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/7167/img2449js7.jpg

I'll likely be away from the project for the next month or so but hope to pick it back up in October. Thanks for looking.

[GT40_GearHead]

any more news !

are you alive,
it would be a shame not to finish this, after all the work !

[Mach]

I've just pulled the mod out of its box over Christmas. Alot has happened since my last post so no, I haven't worked on it any. But I did buy a new house with a large garage that will be my new workshop so hopefully I can get going again when the job settles down. I'm off to Paris and Kuala Lumpur in January.

BTW, does anybody in London need some spray paint? I've got a box of paint that I couldn't ship back to the US. Alot of has never been used. I'll post to the for sale forum too.

[b4i7]

welcome back! cant wait to see some more work!


and btw the FS forum has been closed due to some major rip offs happening...

[Mach]

The Eagle 5 Winnebago's return has inspired me to restart Retromod.

USB Wireless Key

From this:

http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RncE6BZOgRI/AAAAAAAAAIc/-qgm8LRhBzo/s800/IMG_2665.JPG

to this:

http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RncE7xZOgSI/AAAAAAAAAIk/66lrtfwt1Lo/s800/IMG_2671.JPG

to this:

http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJq7qQDYWI/AAAAAAAAAHo/zO8oHKSNleA/s800/IMG_3100.JPG

The LED has a resistor soldered on it leg and is jumper'ed across the USB connectors +5v and ground. Mmm, valve (tube) glow goodness. :)

http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmHqQDYCI/AAAAAAAAAFI/dEJicloyUcQ/s400/IMG_3106.JPG

[Mach]

The wireless usb keyboard key gets a similar treatment.

http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJq46QDYUI/AAAAAAAAAHY/jQYem1PawKs/s400/IMG_3084.JPG

And the tubes will be mounted on the interior to the left of the monitor

http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RncLRBZOgTI/AAAAAAAAAIs/Ent7f11eOz4/s800/retromod%20inner%20frame.jpg

[Mach]

Motherboard mounted on the back of the radio:

http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmI6QDYHI/AAAAAAAAAFw/3U2uA2k7TMs/s800/IMG_3111.JPG

Fan and fan controller painted:
http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmIaQDYGI/AAAAAAAAAI0/wsJBz0vaO0s/s800/IMG_3110.JPG

Very snug fit (check out my power button - the gray wire on the lower right):
http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmJaQDYJI/AAAAAAAAAGA/MwloNTGQ_cU/s800/IMG_3113.JPG

http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmJqQDYKI/AAAAAAAAAGI/-43Ic96nAfU/s800/IMG_3114.JPG

Woot, the video card clears but just barely.
http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmKKQDYLI/AAAAAAAAAGQ/UhcE6pdHHFA/s800/IMG_3115.JPG

From the back:
http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmLqQDYOI/AAAAAAAAAGo/EA3r0MjoMcY/s800/IMG_3118.JPG

Close up of the fan grill (note the fan controller screw to the left) - Does the grill Look familiar?
http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RkJmKqQDYNI/AAAAAAAAAGg/JDyUlon-e24/s800/IMG_3117.JPG

Amazing what you can find wandering around Home Depot. I removed the chrome from the strainer, then cut the strainer in half sideways, flipped the bottom piece over and fit it into the bezel. A little solder and voila, a custom brass fan grill.
http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RncXxxZOgUI/AAAAAAAAAJE/RdZXVkAL_5Q/s144/drain.JPG

[jdbnsn]

Nice job, I love this project!

[Mach]

Thanks jdbnsn! Just wish that I had more time to work on it.

[Mach]

The motherboard heat sink was too close to the back of the CD drive in this setup

http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RncLRBZOgTI/AAAAAAAAAIs/Ent7f11eOz4/s800/retromod%20inner%20frame.jpg"

So I moved it to the floor of the radio. This should make wire management a little more interesting :)

http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4NUhZOgdI/AAAAAAAAAKY/oO_RBJwUQQc/s800/New%20Design.jpg

This is what the original radio face looked like. The slot for the cd is going at the bottom now.

http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4JEBZOgYI/AAAAAAAAAJo/15Auxvb_LGE/s800/IMG_1809.JPG

The radio scale/dial was just riveted in. A quick bit of dremeling and it was free. Check out the green wire that is the station indicator. :think: http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4I4BZOgXI/AAAAAAAAAJg/bILso18xhXY/s800/IMG_1824.JPG

The original covering is a rounded piece of vacuum formed plastic.
http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4JkhZOgZI/AAAAAAAAAJw/5QWmHHKFKuU/s800/IMG_3216.JPG

It's being replaced by a beveled piece of Plexiglas. Beveled but not polished.
http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4RDxZOgeI/AAAAAAAAAKg/gTZus8lA_yM/s800/IMG_3174.JPG

Polished. I'm using Novus polish to polish it by hand. (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=113)

http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4RlRZOgfI/AAAAAAAAAKo/TQ3VgrH5rrE/s800/IMG_3179.JPG


Test fit. I etched the plexi to simulate the radio dial. I think I'll take it all the way to bottom now that I look at it. Check out the green led to the side. It should look very cool once it's in place glowing green.
http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4J4BZOgaI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/arB3_qMF_j4/s800/IMG_3208.JPG

The dial and plexi mounted behind the styrene hold down. I'll need to glue it together once I've polished the plexiglas again.
http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4KzxZOgcI/AAAAAAAAAKI/P91DCMGXdec/s800/IMG_3211.JPG

Styrene CD drive cage.
http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4KKhZOgbI/AAAAAAAAAKA/b4DwfiZ3kjc/s800/IMG_3205.JPG

Fits like it's supposed to.
http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4TvRZOggI/AAAAAAAAAKw/QO9pXI4_NbU/s800/IMG_3204.JPG

Looks good! It'll be screwed to the bottom to hold it place. I was considering isolating it from the case but took a shortcut here since the cd will see limited use.
http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4TxxZOghI/AAAAAAAAAK4/bPpSVdtzFIA/s800/IMG_3203.JPG

:up:

http://lh4.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4IlxZOgWI/AAAAAAAAAJY/_h3wkPUHSvI/s800/IMG_3223.JPG

[Mach]

This idea came from SilentPCReview (http://www.silentpcreview.com/article8-page2.html)

http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4kgRZOgkI/AAAAAAAAALU/PyRhESFqi00/s800/HD%20Mount.jpg

http://lh5.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4gcBZOgiI/AAAAAAAAALQ/S3aZBk3_rzg/s800/IMG_3225.JPG

The assembly is a fishing swivel and a spring connected to a MB standoff.
http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn4gchZOgjI/AAAAAAAAALI/s9V8IFXjb5M/s800/IMG_3229.JPG

[alphastryk]

now thats gonna be a silent HDD... I like it...

[GT40_GearHead]

DUDE I AM SO HAPPY TO SEE YOU AGAIN !!!!


great idea with the HDD! i just went down to my hardware store to get some springs i'm doing it :D


i know its a bit late but... WELCOME BACK !

[Mach]

Thanks alphastryk and GT! It's good to be "back". Sorry for checking out but works has been and is a bear. I want to get this mod finished cause I've got another one in the works that I'm anxious to get started on.

[SgtM]

Excellent work! This is becoming my favorite work in progress. + rep.

[idylan123]

this is really niceeeee

[Mach]

Thanks Idyaln and sgtM! Another brief update, I couldn't resist putting all the pieces that I've got together to see how the placement is going to work.

Here's layout so far. From left to right, the phidgets board to control volume and playlists from the knobs directly behind and various other I/O ;), the cd/dvd player, and the power supply. The black piece on the wall on the right is for utility power distribution (more on this later) The knobs in the back right is an old switch thats for power/on/reset and the small circuit board is a servo tester to control the door servo.

http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn8xVRZOgqI/AAAAAAAAAMM/gbLplg_hHV8/s800/IMG_3237.JPG


Here's one with the tubes in place and some scrap styrene. The larger copper tube will interfere with the door so it'll have to move. It's cool to see it coming together.
http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn8xZRZOgrI/AAAAAAAAAMU/Dfmfkl3-4eI/s800/IMG_3246.JPG

Here's what the original radio looked like which gives me some ideas on where to move the tubes and maybe the phidgets board.

http://lh3.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn8pKRZOgpI/AAAAAAAAAMA/cR06C5emp1k/s800/IMG_1812.JPG

Yup, all those little tubes will have to find their way back in too.
http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/Rn8o8BZOgoI/AAAAAAAAAL4/mDNjDMm7YNw/s800/IMG_1820.JPG

[Drum Thumper]

Wow. This is gonna be one sweet machine when you get it done. Love the work on the front panel and the optical drive. Very inspiring.

[Mach]

After playing around with several materials, here's what I've decided to go with on the power distribution block which is inspired by CrimsonSky's Doom mod power distribution hub. The idea is to light up each fuse if current is flowing
http://lh6.google.com/MachModAlbum/RoiVTlFzX9I/AAAAAAAAAMg/nVWjCKbjHQ0/s800/powerdistribution.jpg

Power plugs mounted:

http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/RoiVl1FzX-I/AAAAAAAAAMo/es8EAPS4e8k/s800/IMG_3251.JPG

Wiring complete except for LED fuses:

http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/RoiV81FzX_I/AAAAAAAAAMw/gREo8DxWaDI/s800/IMG_3253.JPG

Does anyone know of simple power indication circuit that I can scale up for 12v as wells as 5v?

[Mach]

Finishing up the power distribution box
http://lh6.google.com/MachModAlbum/RqgqNLAV-NI/AAAAAAAAAWc/SXlMHDkNHmU/s400/IMG_3544.JPG

http://lh5.google.com/MachModAlbum/RqgmU7AV9iI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/HV6tzUrnCuk/s400/IMG_3561.JPG

Got Glow?
http://lh5.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rqgmq7AV9jI/AAAAAAAAARE/e7DsC7MQRLo/s400/IMG_3557.JPG"

Redid the hard drive hold downs because the standoffs were pulling free. Still need to counter sink the screw heads tho.
http://lh6.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rqgp9LAV-EI/AAAAAAAAAZU/9YGi-f-fvMs/s400/IMG_3535.JPG"

http://lh6.google.com/MachModAlbum/RqgpvLAV98I/AAAAAAAAAY0/5s3hCKhyvGA/s400/IMG_3524.JPG

Next up, going to try some brass and copper chemical etching as well as lining the inside with mica.

[Mach]

Thanks DrumThumper! Its fun and frustrating, alot of my progress gets screwed up by mistakes so that I have to do it over again. Also it doesn't help that I'm using the basic guideline that anything goes, as long as its something I haven't tried before. :)

More on the mica, here's a picture. You can bend it with a heat gun and its translucent so it has a nice warm glow to it. I've never worked with it before so its going to be another learning experience

http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rqgm4bAV9kI/AAAAAAAAARM/xY4Kq_ab5ag/s400/IMG_3263.JPG


I'm going for something like this but more industrial looking. I've got some brass and copper rivets that I'm going to work in if they'll fit.
http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/RqiXgbAV-VI/AAAAAAAAAcc/cqgqk_irFUo/s400/mica006_01.jpg

as found here:
http://www.willowglen.com/dirk.cfm

[Mach]

I've been working on Retromod off and on.

http://lh5.google.com/MachModAlbum/RtT6GK8IoAI/AAAAAAAAAkc/PQFamkkLvH0/s400/IMG_3648.JPG

New hardware....tasty!

A few posts back, I made mention of an idea for the Phidgets board (www.phidgets.com).

http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rt-ZE68IphI/AAAAAAAAA1w/3CRaZoWkHzQ/s400/IMG_3749.JPG

It's an input / output control board that has a USB interface and it's easy to program. I was thinking about using it for touch sensors and to automate lights, etc but enough jaw-jaw.

Remember this from the original radio tear down?

http://lh5.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rt-X6a8IpgI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/ZabbuFbHAF8/s400/IMG_1815.JPG

Those are brass gears and assorted steampunk goodness. It had to be done.

http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rt-U368Io_I/AAAAAAAAAxA/QKakAvgl0gY/s400/IMG_3754.JPG

http://lh6.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rt-Vjq8IpCI/AAAAAAAAAxY/1tpkqQRtew8/s400/IMG_3753.JPG
Still need to add the end glow acrylic and leds to the shaft holes but pretty spiffy.

I'm looking to mount it vertically between the video card and the tubes on the left.
http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rn4NUhZOgdI/AAAAAAAAAKY/oO_RBJwUQQc/s400/New%20Design.jpg

So I needed to desolder the USB connector and add header pins for clearance on the bottom of the case.

http://lh5.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rt-Vea8IpBI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/i6y8Y6o19aw/s400/IMG_3750.JPG

http://lh3.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rt-VX68IpAI/AAAAAAAAAxI/dUasdORIxCQ/s400/IMG_3751.JPG

I was sweating it a little that I had mucked it up but it tested fine.

I started positioning all the parts to cut the brass mounting panel and the mica. I realized that I've avoided the door long enough. It's really gotten to the point that I can't move forward unless I get it sorted. If you're joining this saga late, I'm trying to create a retractable door from brass and copper ala Crimson's Doom3 mod.

Here's where the latest (4th or 5th) iteration has taken me.

http://lh6.google.com/MachModAlbum/RtT-Ha8IoFI/AAAAAAAAAlI/kMWbsZeIWoo/s400/IMG_3573.JPG

I revisited how Crimson and Wannabemodder did theirs and tried to do the same. I wrapped a strip of brass around an oak jig, offset it with aluminum strips and then another strip of brass.

http://lh5.google.com/MachModAlbum/RtT-HK8IoEI/AAAAAAAAAlA/YpGgEsrP64I/s400/IMG_3569.JPG

Then I put solder paste along the edges for soldering. Much heat applied but no luck, I just couldn't get enough brass contact to make a good joint. :dead:

After testing another idea in styrene, plan E is in the works. I'm going to cut out the shapes that I need from plexi. It's not brass but if it works, I'll consider water cutting. A scrollsaw is enroute and vacation is booked for October...stay tuned.

Oh yeah, how do you like the new knobs?
http://lh4.google.com/MachModAlbum/Rt-dtK8IpiI/AAAAAAAAA2A/D4Z3k2-STZU/s400/IMG_3191.JPG

[alphastryk]

lookin great man... +rep

[Cheron]

I love your work so far. keep it up. + rep

[Eclecticos]

Any Progress here? Looks fantastic so far!

[Mach]

Sorry guys, I've neglected this worklog for Cobra-matic and haven't looked at it since March. No updates but I'll pick it up again once I finish Cobra-matic. I think I have a solution for the roll-up door. Thanks for the feedback and rep!