View Full Version : Need to repair/replace portable speaker cables

09-27-2011, 10:36 PM
I've got an older set of speakers. They are Labtec LCS-600. About 15 years old. Portable speakers. Tiny. (I'll get images up; Google is NO help here.)

You'd think that, speakers on 4 C batteries wouldn't put out much of a kick. (I've heard extremely wimpy USB speakers.) You'd be surprised.

The problem is, in my carelessness, :facepalm: I ripped up the cords. Audio is horrid now.

Rather than try repairing the cord (not only would it be ugly, but there are PATCHES of exposed wire. :facepalm::facepalm:

The right speaker cord is easy: It's the standard 1/8" dual-ring headphone hookup.
The left speaker cord is trickier: a 1/16" single ring next to, and held in place by plastic, a 1/8" single ring.

The question is: Where could I get replacement cables? I absolutely LOVE these speakers. (Not as much as my desktop's speakers, but they require ~18volts. Not exactly transportable...)

09-28-2011, 08:54 AM
i would start the search at the following


you can look for the connectors and then look for wire separately. trying to find a pre-made pigtail cable will probably be near impossible.

09-28-2011, 02:20 PM
Let's see pictures!

10-10-2011, 11:28 PM
As promised.

The speakers themselves.

The connectors.

The main reason I need the cables replaced.

10-11-2011, 08:33 AM
you could always take the speakers apart and remove the connectors and hard wire some cables in place.

10-11-2011, 10:03 AM
Another solution that just came:

Buy just the cables.

Splice 'em in.

Hot glue 'em together.

10-16-2011, 10:48 PM
Well, I found a few yards of paracord. When I get the replacement cable, I'll sleeve it.

Now, to find cabling....

10-23-2011, 11:29 PM
I found some 4-wire telephone cord, so re-cabling should be soon.

11-06-2011, 11:37 PM
Well, pix to come! I've done sleeving and wiring! Now time for soldering!


11-29-2011, 02:27 PM
you should pop those speakers apart and see what the specifications are on the speaker itself.

might be able to find some nicer ones, i'm sure with how old it is it's probably got a decent amplifier in it.

11-29-2011, 02:45 PM
4-ohm, 3-amp.

11-29-2011, 03:07 PM
4-ohm, 3-amp.

about a 4" circumference?


something like that would be cool. especially what with the 3 way driver and the speakers themselves already have treble bass knobs

18v right?

it'd be about a 54w stereo then (27w a channel) I'm not sure what the RMS of those above speakers are but i bet its something hilarious like 25W or so which would match up nicely with what that amp can provide.

11-29-2011, 07:32 PM

12-01-2011, 04:04 PM
I doubt those speakers are 4" drivers.. I have some killer AL's here, and they are a pair of 2" drivers; one full range, and one woofer in each speaker, and they sound HUGE.

These ones probably use a 2" full range.

12-01-2011, 04:05 PM
I bet they are about 5w speakers, and a 3w amp. :)

12-02-2011, 03:29 PM
I bet they are about 5w speakers, and a 3w amp. :)

if its 6v 3a then its 18W@4ohm


They make car speakers in every shape and size you could think of.

I've seen some heart shaped speakers before LOL, but 3 1/2 is about the smallest "standard" size.

12-02-2011, 07:30 PM
I didnt mean there's no such thing as a 4" driver, I just didnt think that the ones in those little enclosures were 4". My ziggies are using a 4" full range driver. :D

12-02-2011, 11:53 PM
Well, the sound system is a 6V system.

Should that mean the speakers are, too?

12-15-2011, 11:25 AM

Ohm's Law.

Volts divided by amps = ohms.
Volts = ohms times amps.
Volts = 4*3 = 12.

So, 12V speakers.

Volts times amps = watts

12*3=36W :eek:

12-17-2011, 09:55 PM
3A signal requires 22AWG wiring, thicker if you plan long runs.

You can pick up "speaker wire" anywhere, and if you pay the extra dollar for good 18AWG then your little speakers will do just fine. LAN or telecomm (phone) cables should work quite well for these little speakers, and even the worst of these cables is probably better shielded than most cheap speaker wire, but they might not be sufficiently robust to sustain 36W audio output; this would be noticeable as flattened amplitude (ie: quieter) and increased noise floor (ie: turning them up to be less quiet will make staticky or hissing sounds).

I'd suggest replacing the entire cable length, end to end, rather than splicing midway. Less hassle, less fugly, cleaner signal.

12-17-2011, 11:36 PM
You know what?

I haven't soldered anything yet.

Will look into better cables when I have the chance.

Still love these speakers.