73 monte carlo build up.

[blaze15301]

Hello everyone it has been a good bit since i have posted anything. Sorry about that , I have been hard at work working on my 73 monte carlo that i got back in may. I planned all along to start a work log but life just got in the way. So here it is my official work log for my monte carlo build up.


I have had this car since May, 15, 2011. Im very excited about it, I have done a good bit on the car so far in such a short amount of time. When i say a good bit i think its a good bit for someone who is doing this by himself with no help and basic knowledge of cars. I don't ever plan on restoring the car back to its original part completely. I want this to be a one of a kind something that I put together and built my self. It has been a child hood dream come reality. Now for some pictures of when I got it in may.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/monte%20carlo/DSC_0840.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/monte%20carlo/DSC_0842.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/monte%20carlo/DSC_0844.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/monte%20carlo/DSC_0854.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/monte%20carlo/DSC_0863.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/monte%20carlo/DSC_0866.jpg

She looks gorgeous right?Wrong that is what I thought as well. i got her home and lets just say at some closer inspection most of the truck was actually rotted away and so are the wheel wells and some parts of the cab. This car was restored and fixed once back in the 90s. more pics of what it used to look like tomorrow. I will update with more of what I have done tomorrow.

[xr4man]

you have a hell of a lot of work ahead of you. but having btdt, i can say that there are few things that are more satisfying than completing a project like this.

good luck and keep the pics coming.

[blaze15301]

The first thing i did when I got the car was rip the fender/hood off of it. I stripped the whole front end off of it. The core support and bushing had to be replaced. I then started the sanding process. Then it was primed. Sanding a car sucks I wouldn't recommend it. Here are a few pics of what I did.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0204-1.jpg
front clip off.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0206.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0205.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0428.jpg
I used a paint remover on this fender. That stuff is very messy and tarnished the metal a good bit. But it got the paint off rather quickly.

then everything got primied.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0427.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0426.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0422.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0421.jpg

Here is the state the car is currently in.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0724.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0723.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0722.jpg

If you look closely you can see that the ac is completely gone. I dont need a ac so i ripped it out.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0725.jpg

patched a few holes in the cab.


http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0726.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0423.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0424.jpg
i need to patch a lot more.

ill post more pictures this upcoming week end. hope you guys enjoy seeing my rust bucket.

[AmEv]

Looks like someone took it to a demolition derby....

[Fuganater]

Wouldn't it be better to just cut out the rusted parts and put a new plate in?

[altec]

Wouldn't it be better to just cut out the rusted parts and put a new plate in?

I would hope that is what he was doing. Cutting out the rot, and welding in new metal. If you plate over rust, you'll be in worse shape in a couple years.

Car is looking good Blaze. Seems like you are doing good so far! Don't forget the three most important areas when you are replacing parts! Steering components (Tie rod ends, etc), brakes (Lines, hoses, brake cylinders, calipers, pads, shoes, rotors, drums, and a master cylinder flush), and fuel lines/filter. Although, you may consider a tank fuel tank, and straps while you are at it. Working on these old cars stirs every last piece of crap in the tank. You'll be replacing fuel filters once a week, for the rest of your life...

If you need any advice on working around the drive train, post up. Old GM is what I do...:)

[AmEv]

Replacing fuel filters...

We had to do that every so often on our pickup because both tanks were empty when some kids decided to siphon gas; in revenge, they poured sand into a tank.
Nobody knew it had happened until they filled up the tanks the following morning.

[blaze15301]

i had to put a new tank in the car but from what i can tell by moving it around the block the brakes are fine the fuel lines aren't rotted or worn. just so you guys know i am cutting the old rust away and laying new metal over it.

[altec]

Something to consider is that brake, and fuel lines can, and often do rot from the inside out. I've replaced lines that look fine on the outside, but if you hold a light up to the side wall, and look inside you see pin holes from internal rot.

I'd be willing to gamble with hard lines, but I would replace soft brake hoses, calipers, cylinders, shoes/pads, and if you can find a place to do it turn the rotors/drums. I'd rather turn old iron, then deal with new parts.

You should easily be able to replace these parts around, or under $100.

Just don't forget the steering. Check the TRE's for tightness, and the steering box for abnormal play.

All these are key points to my truck build. I ended up replacing one TRE, and so far I have cleaned the master cylinder on the brakes. This weekend I'm running a passenger front hardline, and need to get some large line for the rear. Fuel lines are getting redone with 1/2, and 3/8 aluminum. I'll run the most ghetto looking junk around, but if my SO needs to run down to the store, I want to make sure she'll get there safely.:D

[xr4man]

Something to consider is that brake, and fuel lines can, and often do rot from the inside out. I've replaced lines that look fine on the outside, but if you hold a light up to the side wall, and look inside you see pin holes from internal rot.


that's very true. i had an old golf that needed a hard line replaced and when i touched it, the one next to it broke and i could see all the rot inside. long story short, i ended up having to replace all the hardlines.

[Twigsoffury]

I'd be willing to gamble with hard lines, but I would replace soft brake hoses, calipers, cylinders, shoes/pads, and if you can find a place to do it turn the rotors/drums. I'd rather turn old iron, then deal with new parts.


Hah when i had my hilariously small toyota echo.


Turned out to be cheaper to buy new rotors for that particular car, then what the guy normally charged to turn them.

I think it was more like a large R/C car then a real automobile.

[Kayin]

How did you get in my shop?

[altec]

Hah when i had my hilariously small toyota echo.


Turned out to be cheaper to buy new rotors for that particular car, then what the guy normally charged to turn them.

I think it was more like a large R/C car then a real automobile.

Yep. Hard as hell to find places to turn these days because it is more cost effective to just replace. Sadly, a lot of the new parts are very good quality. If I'm working on my own stuff, I try to get my known-good pieces turned. Nothing sucks more then shuddering from crappy rotors. It's like riding around on Godzillas personal massager.

Yeah, bleach can't get that mental picture out! :P

[CorsePerVita]

Holy floorpan batman. Needs some work but you can do it!

[blaze15301]

I have not done to much that you can actully see. Right now im working on patching the passenger wheel well. Then i will move over to the driver side. I am starting to use body filler on some of the car. you can see a few spot in the pictures i have.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0729.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0730.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0731.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0732.jpg

This week im hoping to get the cab all patched up so i can drop the tank next eek and fix the trunk.

[Twigsoffury]

Liquid lead might be a better alternative then bondo in your situation.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_AqkYzgvecSU/S13L8r3g1JI/AAAAAAAAAdY/lLBJ-BvndaE/s320/P5B+lead+loading.jpg

SD98LDc0GAI


It's like reverse 31:1 ratio soldering on computers.

[blaze15301]

i don't have a torch and i don't like messing with lead.

[Twigsoffury]

i don't have a torch and i don't like messing with lead.

now why the hell not?

and come on the roman's used to drink it like soda pop LOL.

[altec]

Lead work on anything that didn't have it from the factory doesn't make much sense to me, but I wouldn't worry about working with it. Wear gloves, and don't breath in the fumes. Lead isn't as bad as it is made out to be. Most people who get lead poisoning are stupid kids who eat the colorful potato chips...

[Snowman]

Umm I gotta go with the rest of the crowd here, I am not sure where your located but the first time the weather starts changing bondo starts cracking and falling off.

[Twigsoffury]

Umm I gotta go with the rest of the crowd here, I am not sure where your located but the first time the weather starts changing bondo starts cracking and falling off.

not to mention anyone with a magnet is gonna know there is bondo every where over the car.


You can punch the quarter panel and make bondo shoot out the majority of the time (seen it happen on accident, took out a huge chunk of paint to haha) if its not attached 100%

I personally think lead is easier to work then bondo is. with a hell of a lot less mess, its stronger.. will last longer, has a smoother finished look and you can do lots of creative things with lead that isn't possible with bondo.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/AceBrown/mercury%20progress/baremetal.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/AceBrown/mercury%20progress/leadstick1.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/AceBrown/mercury%20progress/flatpaddle.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c386/AceBrown/mercury%20progress/leaded.jpg

theres a reason they call 'em Lead Sleds.

But anyways its a really awesome way to just cut out the rust completely, lay down a piece of sheet metal, stitch weld it together, then lead over the edges until its nice and smooth.

Also works flippin awesome at covering up dents,creases and knicks.

(its cheap as s@#t to)

[blaze15301]

I don't think I am going to use lead as of right now I am not filling any holes with bondo. I am just smoothing out the gap between the roof and the quarters from where the vinyl top was. I have never seen bondo crack in cold weather well cold weather around where I live any way. I wont be doing much to the holes right now my welder gun broke and I am fighting with east wood to replace the defective POS.Thanks for the input tho.

[Twigsoffury]

I don't think I am going to use lead as of right now I am not filling any holes with bondo. I am just smoothing out the gap between the roof and the quarters from where the vinyl top was. I have never seen bondo crack in cold weather well cold weather around where I live any way. I wont be doing much to the holes right now my welder gun broke and I am fighting with east wood to replace the defective POS.Thanks for the input tho.

no problemo! and it is looking good considering it looked like it was about to turn into a 73' bushmaster before you got a hold of it.

[blaze15301]

I haven't been doing much since last week when my welder broke. East wood is in the process of sending me a new gun sometime soon hopefully. This has left me some time to figure out what I am going to be doing with the car performance parts and color when the body is done. Here is a small list of things That will be in the car at one point or another.

performance
383 stroker new.
10 bolt posi
carbon fiber hood.
big fat drag tires in the back.
2 or 3 inch lift kit.
disc brakes.

cosmetic
White exterior with black pin strips on the body lines.
racing seats
5 point harness
black interior
Defrosters/heater

That is pretty much it for now.I will update when the new welding gun comes in and I get some more welding done.

[altec]

Who are you getting the 383 thru? What size tires?

[blaze15301]

Who are you getting the 383 thru? What size tires?

i was thinking one of the online places like summit or a performance place. I am not sure yet tho.
I want to use the rims i have so i have to have 15s.

[Snowman]

I think chevy is putting out stroker crate motors now if you want to get it straight from the horses mouth so to speak. I hear jegs is better for crate motors if you do go with an online place.

[blaze15301]

I think chevy is putting out stroker crate motors now if you want to get it straight from the horses mouth so to speak. I hear jegs is better for crate motors if you do go with an online place.

yeah i herd jegs was a great place. i think i was looking at them the other night.

[billygoat333]

When my ex's brother got a 350 HO for his El Camino he went through summit because it was like $500 cheaper than Jeg's, I would shop around for sure before committing. :)

[Snowman]

I just priced out a 5.7 ecotec motor and it was cheaper on jegs so thats kind of funny.. pretty much the same motor except ones carbed and the other injected.

[altec]

A GM Performance ZZ383 is the way to go for a crate 383. Doesn't matter where you get it.

Granted, 383's aren't my thing. If I wanted a longer stroke engine, I'd go after finding a 427 to rebuild.

[blaze15301]

A GM Performance ZZ383 is the way to go for a crate 383. Doesn't matter where you get it.

Granted, 383's aren't my thing. If I wanted a longer stroke engine, I'd go after finding a 427 to rebuild.

id love a big block in this thing but i cant afford the whole conversion process.

[Twigsoffury]

id love a big block in this thing but i cant afford the whole conversion process.

are you getting a crate motor?


or are you going to do it like a real man and rebuild that engine up yourself?


I mean can't you bore out iron blocks like whats in that to ridiculous sizes?

[altec]

are you getting a crate motor?


or are you going to do it like a real man and rebuild that engine up yourself?


I mean can't you bore out iron blocks like whats in that to ridiculous sizes?

You priced a machine shop these days? It ain't like the old days. For anything short of a race car, a crate is a very sensible option. Very competitive pricing with a shade tree rebuild, and you get a warranty. I don't warranty my own work to myself. :D

For a SB chebby, you really don't want to go more then .030" over for normal use, although .060" isn't out there. Past that, you get into strength, and other issues. Or, you just go right into a water jacket... By no means ridiculous numbers, though.

How most people get the extra cubes on small blocks is through the use of a longer stroke crank. Namely, the same stroke as a 400SB. If you put a 400 stroke length crank in a 350, you get a 377ci. Bore it .030" over, you get a 383. The only problem with this is you normally have to grind the block to clear the rods, and 90% of the time you go right into the water jackets, which can such to fix...

I'm not into strokers. Mainly cause I like higher RPM's, and when you start taking a long stroke engine in the 5500k+ range, the rods try to escape... Which is why I want to build a 302 that'll spin to 10k in its sleep. Yummy.

[xr4man]

after building my turbo ford engine, i have come to the conclusion that i like low end low rpm torque. honestly, i could give a doo-doo about anything past 4 or 5 grand, but i want everything under 3000 rpm. so to me a stroker engine sounds like a good idea. that's what i love about my supra - max torque at 2400 rpm. but then it's done by 3500 rpm.

in retrospect, i'd [probably like diesels a whole lot if they weren't such heavy engines.

[Snowman]

It all depends on what you want to do with your car, straight line as fast as you can a super charger makes sense. You want a motocross or road type course car a supercharger begins to make more sense or even a dual turbo setup.

[xr4man]

yup, you have to figure out what you want tp use it for first, then build to that end. i've seen many a car guy fall by the wayside because they didn't have a plan to begin with and ended up with an undrivable and not fun car. then they get parted out.

just remember, bigger is't always better, sometimes it's just bigger. also, don't get all sparkly eyed about "full on race parts" a lot of times they aren't the best choice for a street car.

oh, and one last suggestion, make sure everything is running right before you start modifying stuff.

[Snowman]

Just so everyone knows this is really making me want to drop the tuneport 350 in the blazer ASAP

[blaze15301]

Well guys i thought i would give you all a nice little update. As far as the engine performance goes, I will defiantly be buying a crate motor for 2 reasons. 1 because i have no experience rebuilding motors and 2 because a crate is cheaper and comes with a warranty. I am not sure 100% what motor i want yet i just know i want at least 400 - 500 hp. When i go i want the front tires to lift. Sorry i haven't been updating i haven't done much but dropped the gas tank i just got my welder back today along with a nice little surprise ill post some pics of all that a bit later tho. So if you guys have any suggestions let me know. I am all ears.

[xr4man]

well, if you want front tire lifting power, you don't want to be concerned too much about horsepower. you want to look at torque. horse power is just a calculation of torque and rpms. so you could easily make that 4 or 500 hp at say, 7000 rpm, but have not enough low end torque to get out of your own way.

remember, tune for torque because torque is fun!

[blaze15301]

Well i did say i would post what i did later on so here we go.
I patched most of the holes in the cab tonight. I also got my new rad. The front end had to be removed again because I am getting new fenders.

Also over the week end i picked up this antique oil air compressor the tag says it is front 1943 and she still runs. Got it from a guy on Craig list for 75.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0747.jpg

Im not sure what kind of engine to get for the car or what kind of low end torque to look for. So some help would be awesome. thanks
here are some pics

My new rad!! look how shiny it is.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0740.jpg

look at those welds.
http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0741.jpg

New V Old
http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0742.jpg

driver patch

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0744.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0745.jpg

some cable sleeving i did.
http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0746.jpg

In case you are wondering the new radiator is a all aluminum 1inch tube 2 row American radiator co ( aka radiator champion) rad from eBay.
that's all for to night i will try to do more nightly now that the welder is running again.

[Twigsoffury]

my buddy said all that rusted out metal is just a late stage II weight reduction.

[blaze15301]

Q
my buddy said all that rusted out metal is just a late stage II weight reduction.
Lol yeah. If any one is intrested in my old rad let me know. It only has a few hole clumped together. You could cut it and use it for a mod.

[blaze15301]

UPDATE

Hello again everyone. I haven't had much time to actually work on the car like I would like, but I have manged to get most of the trunk patched up. I recently decided to resand the entire car back to metal mostly apply a epoxy primer then a sealer myself. If any one has any tips let me know. That new shiny radiator i was showing off last post is in the car. Here are a few pics and a video of the car running. i only have 1 picture and a video because the camera died.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0752.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/th_GEDC0749.jpg (http://s410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/?action=view&current=GEDC0749.mp4)

P.S I love the roar of my engine, it's just so relaxing.

[x88x]

Nice progress.

BTW, if you put the link to the video in 'm' tags instead of 'img' tags, it will actually embed.

[Twigsoffury]

man you could scare tons of kids on halloween with that engine.

[CorsePerVita]

Coming along nicely man, keep up the progress

[blaze15301]

I don't really have anything new to report other then i changed the fluids but the brakes. The brakes went on me today. It is either the master cylinder or the passenger back caliper leaking I haven't figure out witch yet.

[blaze15301]

I am not sure what is wrong with my brakes but I replaced both wheel cylinders and the master cylinder and i bleed them. I get good pressure when the car is off but as soon as the engine starts i lose it completely.

[Luke122]

Something to do with the vacuum boost?

[blaze15301]

im not sure yet. i was always told that if the master booster went bad the pedal wouldn't move and you wouldn't have any pressure.

[Luke122]

Something is disconnected maybe?

[Twigsoffury]

You have Disc or drum rear brakes?

[blaze15301]

I think i just have a ton of air in thw lines. But i have brum in the back disc in the front.

[Twigsoffury]

I think i just have a ton of air in thw lines. But i have brum in the back disc in the front.

buddy asked if you primed the master cylinder itself before you put the system together and purged it.

if not then ya. you've probably got a hilarious amount of air trapped in the master cylinder itself.


(friends two cents)

[blaze15301]

buddy asked if you primed the master cylinder itself before you put the system together and purged it.

if not then ya. you've probably got a hilarious amount of air trapped in the master cylinder itself.


(friends two cents)

No I forgo to do it but tomorrow I will be getting a new fender and taking the master cylinder off and replacing both calipers. Thanks for yours and his input.

[Twigsoffury]

No I forgo to do it but tomorrow I will be getting a new fender and taking the master cylinder off and replacing both calipers. Thanks for yours and his input.

oh no problemo! hope you post new pics post fender and calipers installed.

[xr4man]

gah, i hate having to pre prime the master cylinder. i had to do the new one on the merkur 3 or 4 times and then bleed 3 or4 times before the pedal stiffened up.

[altec]

At least it isn't hard to do. Just takes two people with the MC on the car. Need a line wrench, brake fluid proof container, and a friend with strong legs.

If you brakes are still spongy after you know you have all the air out, it is most likely bulging lines. Either the ones going to the front caliper, or the one that T-s into the rear axle.

[blaze15301]

UPDATE


I hope everyone had a great thanksgiving.I know i did. I did a few things to the car over the holiday.
patched the quater panel
fixed the brakes
changed the caliper
finished the wheel well
got a new fender


So that is all of the things I have done in a week. seems like a small amount compared to what still needs to be done. But i have more pressing matters at and for the moment. The 73 head light bucket i ordered from Arizona is bent. it will not line up with the fender but the 74 version does. it actully does really nicely. so I am thinking about going and pulling that other head light bucket off the donor car i found in the junk yard.The only problem i might have is Im not to sure how the bumper skirts go if i would get a 74 or 73 version. I ll figure it out i guess. Here are some pictures.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0777.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0778.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0780.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0781.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0783.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0791.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0792.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0794.jpg
74 head light bucket.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0795.jpg
still 74

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0799.jpg

73... yeah something defiantly doe not line up right.

[Twigsoffury]

is your quarter panel mis-aligned? cause it looks like those two should line up.

[blaze15301]

is your quarter panel mis-aligned? cause it looks like those two should line up.

No its not the quarter it is the fender. It's not out of alignment the head light bucket is just bent. I talked to the guy I bought it off of and he wants me to send it back to him so he can test to see if it is messed up.

[blaze15301]

update

I hope everyone had a great christmas and a happy and safe new year.

now that that is out of the way lets get to the update.
Sorry for the long wait everyone. It has been getting colder here and I can not work in my garage when it is cold out. Basically I am trying to do stuff slowly because of winter you can't paint or apply bondo when it is below 65. I will update like always with things I do. The front end of the car will pretty much be brand new considering both fender + the core support and grill are all new. I had the car out in the drive way last week when a guy working on my road came over and made me a generous offer i couldn't refuse. He derbies older cars and is willing to sell me a 454 Chevy big block for 50$ It hink when he gets on im going to take it.
Now on to the pictures.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0800.jpg
my smooth bondo work.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0801.jpg
I still need to sand it down a bit more.
http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0802.jpg
and add a bit more at the bottom.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0815.jpg
one of the new fenders. I am getting a carbon fiber hood with my taxes.
http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0816.jpg

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0817.jpg
This one I got for x-mas.

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp190/blaze15301/GEDC0818.jpg
lastly i got the lights half working.

I have a crossed wire some where with the lights. when i hit the turn signal only one light blinks some of the time and other times they both blink.Hopefully ill get this fixed. Until next time guys. have a good winter

FRANKENSTEIN LIVES!!:twisted:

[altec]

If you can, get the block, and head casting numbers. Honestly, if they are junk casting, it probably would be easier to take the $50 somewhere else. Isn't worth it if you are replacing everything...

If I wanted to do a big block build, I'd find a tall deck 427 truck engine, and a good set of heads. The shorter stroke on the 427 makes them a beast. Has the torque, and the RPM's. Besides the Vortec 8100, the 427 is the only one I like... Id much rather build a stout small block that I can spin to 7k all day long.

Don't forget you are going to need to build a th400 to go with that BB...

[blaze15301]

If you can, get the block, and head casting numbers. Honestly, if they are junk casting, it probably would be easier to take the $50 somewhere else. Isn't worth it if you are replacing everything...

If I wanted to do a big block build, I'd find a tall deck 427 truck engine, and a good set of heads. The shorter stroke on the 427 makes them a beast. Has the torque, and the RPM's. Besides the Vortec 8100, the 427 is the only one I like... Id much rather build a stout small block that I can spin to 7k all day long.

Don't forget you are going to need to build a th400 to go with that BB...

i thought i could just get a converter and bolt the 454 up to the the350. maybe it would be easier and more cost efficient if i just went back to buying a turn key motor. Thanks for your input. I greatly appreciate it.

[altec]

If you get a 3 bolt flex plate, you don't even need a converter unless the stall isn't what you want.

It is mainly to do with strength. The th350 is weaker, and you'll spend a good bit of money making it stand up to anything but the most anemic 396... On the other hand, a th400 will stand up to it out of the box. You just sacrifice the lower first that the 350 has. You are making up for it with lower RPM torque of a BB.

Me, I'd probably run the th350 until it lets go. Hoping it burns up the converter, or clutches, and not breaking a shell, or shaft... Haha. Can't get it home with the ladder...

Regarding a rear. The GM 12 bolt (And 10) is a nice axle for mid power. You'll probably want to upgrade your suspension before you pop a 12 bolt... Building one is a set of shafts, C-clip eliminator, and a locker/posi.

The 9-inch is a mid power axle out of the box. The reason it has such a huge following is because of the aftermarket support. You can get anything for them! As well, they can be built to handle any power numbers... They also have the benefit of being able to swap gears easy. It is a viable option for a race team to have multiple carriers with them to change the ratio. Simple as popping tbe drive shaft, pull the shafts out a little, and unbolt the carrier. Probably 15 minutes...