motherboard replacement- DV6000 [Archive]

Outlaw

10-12-2011, 05:51 AM

Well.. as it says, I am looking to replace the motherboard in my dv6000, yes I know about all the issues they are known for.

Either way, same model or new, I will be shimming, using AS5 and providing additional cooling from the bottom of the laptop with a pad cooler. I was thinking of finding a small chipset fan to put over? the gpu to pull air in from the bottom since the only cooling related vents are at the HS/F and over the RAM and HDD.

My questions:
Has anybody changed the model of the system board in any of the known defect series?
Any issues with this?

My laptop motherboard is a 433280-001 with the Go 7200 (bottom of class 4 on notebookcheck) and dual core AMD Processor (not sure of exact model).

I want to use motherboard 459564-001 which supports hdmi, and has the Go 8400m (top of class 4). It is quite a bit more powerful over the 7200 and no comparison to the Go 6150 used in other models.

From pictures i've found on the interweb, they look identical.
Differences I found:
HDMI port (there is an empty spot on the shell)
RAM slot flipped
heatsink mounting (will be buying with motherboard)

Go 6150 Specs:
Pipelines 2 / 1 Pixel- / Vertexshader
Core Speed * 425 MHz
Shader Speed * 425 MHz
Memory Speed * 0 MHz
Memory Bus Width 0 Bit
Memory Type shared Memory
Shared Memory yes
Turbocache bis 128MB
DirectX DirectX 9c, Shader 3.0
technology 110 nm

Go 7200 Specs:
Pipelines 4 / 3 Pixel- / Vertexshader
Core Speed * 450 MHz
Shader Speed * 450 MHz
Memory Speed * 350 MHz
Memory Bus Width 32 Bit
Memory Type DDR-3
Max. Amount of Memory 64 MB
Shared Memory no
DirectX DirectX 9c, Shader 3.0
Transistors 112 Million
technology 90 nm

Go 8400m Specs:
Pipelines 16 - unified
Core Speed * 400 MHz
Shader Speed * 800 MHz
Memory Speed * 600 MHz
Memory Bus Width 64 Bit
Memory Type GDDR2 / GDDR3
Max. Amount of Memory 256 MB
Shared Memory no
DirectX DirectX 10, Shader 4.0
Current Consumption 11 Watt
Transistors 210 Million
technology 80 nm

Here is the 2 motherboards.
http://i53.tinypic.com/2uegnsl.jpg

Thanks,
Outlaw

xr4man

10-12-2011, 08:33 AM

hell, try it and see if it works.

Outlaw

10-12-2011, 10:04 AM

That is the teeter totter I am stuck in the middle on. lol

While I want it to work, if it doesn't, I can't get a refund. The board is 70-100 bucks plus the heatsink is 15-30 bucks. The rest of the hardware should be compatible per everything I read assuming everything I read was accurate. lol

I was also looking at this evercool laptop cooler (http://www.evercoolusa.com/?p=3428) and wondering about building a water cooling setup. using what space is in the base as an enclosure for the rad/pump and res if room permited.

Pump/Res- http://www.xoxide.com/x2o-200-pumpres.html
GPU- http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcw30-chipset.html
CPU- http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-gpu-220.html
RAD- http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcr120-xp.html
Chipset- based off the cooler on it now, I may be able to get away with a stick on ram sink but would definitely have to monitor.

I would use 1/4" barb and hose for plumbing. The water setup is more of a dream i guess as I don't even know if the board will work, lol

As long as the hardware plays nice, I can figure out a way to use it even if it doesn't fit the case.. it would just be disappointing.

AmEv

10-12-2011, 10:36 AM

Based on the mPCIE slots and the procy socket, looks like you shouldn't have any problems with the RAM. And the mounting spots look 100% in the same location.

If it doesn't work, you can hopefully sell the other board.

Let's hope it does:crossed::crossed:

xr4man

10-12-2011, 10:58 AM

i want to see this happen. you don't hear much about modding laptops like this. usually it's just some case mods or ram upgrades.

Outlaw

10-12-2011, 11:28 AM

Thanks AmEv and xr4man.

I think a board replacement will happen regardless, the current one is shot. lol. There is never enough pc's and I don't want to share anymore, lol. Plus it's a shame to just have sit around. Overall, it is still a decent spec'd laptop.

The laptop specs (DV6045nr):
CPU- TL-56 (1.8Ghz Turion X2)
RAM- DDR2 667 (1GB x2)
HDD- 120GB (SATA 5400RPM)
NIC- 10/100/1000
DISPLAY- 15.4" 1280x800 WXGA Brightview
WIFI- 802.11 B/G

Anyone want to sponsor the water cooling part? haha

Outlaw

Fuganater

10-12-2011, 12:20 PM

If you want sponsors start sending out emails.

Outlaw

10-12-2011, 12:25 PM

I was kidding. I wouldn't expect anyone to give this second thought on the water cooling being the laptop was released in 2006/2007.

I will update how the motherboard goes though as it seems there is some interest in that. The water cooling is more or less out of reach.

Talking to the wife about it, she was OK with the board upgrade but literally walked out of the house when I talked about water cooling it. lol

Outlaw

xr4man

10-12-2011, 12:41 PM

forget about water cooling. you need to phase cool it and overclock that jank to 4 or 5 ghz, lol

Aldersan

10-12-2011, 12:44 PM

LOL still be about as powerful as a desktop processer at 3.2ghz then i bet :P

Outlaw

10-12-2011, 12:48 PM

Haha, I could only imagine.

Arriving at LAN
Me: Hey guys, I brought my laptop.
Friends: That's cool but what's in the suit case? This event is only a couple hours.
Me: My phase change cooler. Oh and by the way, I need my own breaker.

lol. I would like to explore more into water cooling as I only wiggled my toes in it when I got my H50. Other then the dust accumulating on the RAD like a sheet of paper, it's definitely proved worth it imo.

Plus, if the cooling part even went through, this would be my first real mod.

Outlaw

Aldersan

10-12-2011, 12:52 PM

http://goo.gl/N35pI
:)

Outlaw

10-12-2011, 01:00 PM

Thanks. I did actually come across that while searching earlier this morning. Definitely cool.

My hopes if possible, would be to cool both CPU and GPU, plus keep all ports open for use which is where the cooler pad comes into play. I would be looking for something that would more blend in with the crowd until you get up to it and go is that a reservoir in the cooler pad, then find its water cooled.

It does make it slightly less portable having the cooler permanently attached to the laptop, but 99% of most laptops should have one under them any way imo.

Most of the games I play (CSS, FC2, Sims3, MW2) aren't too graphically demanding so I think this mod would be more of an aesthetics build. Might have to see what a sheet of aluminum goes for around here. If I can build a pad, I could get more room for maybe a battery pack to run everything for an hr or 2 if lucky.... oh noes... lost in more dreams!

Thanks for the link
Outlaw

Aldersan

10-12-2011, 01:04 PM

Hmm, if youre using a cooling pad under it, that could give you a lot more freedom, you could use small waterblocks on the cpu and gpu with the intake/output nozzles going straight down, into the cooling pad? then you wouldn't need such large holes in the bottom of the laptop, so most things would still be fine I'd think. could put 90 degree adapters right on them so you wouldn't need bends in the tubing really, then res and pump and rad inside the cooling pad? Of course, that wouldn't reveal that it's watercooled when you got up to leave though :P

EDIT: maybe use some quick-disconnects so you could remove the cooling pad for travel? would be easier to store it in 2 pieces then just connect and play :D

Outlaw

10-12-2011, 01:21 PM

We are on the same page. lol

I originally got the idea from seeing the evercool cooling pad HERE (http://www.evercoolusa.com/?p=3428).

The GPU cooler I had picked on the first page would have been a downward inlet/outlet while the CPU cooler could go both ways (lol). I don't even know that they would fit but based off the mounting, they looked to be the closest without having to use "straps" or some fabricating which I have almost no background in and absolutely no space to do it in even if I did. I think I could get away with doing the pad in a sheet or couple as I could probably just use snips to cut it and sand paper to smooth it out.

With the res/pump, I would hope to have a cutout to at least show the water level, as well as a fill port. And if I got really carried away, maybe somewhere for temp sensors and a readout.

another question, how big does a laptop have to be before it just becomes a 'portable desktop'? lol

Good thinking with the quick disconnects. I was just looking to mount the laptop to the pad to prevent separation.
Outlaw

Aldersan

10-12-2011, 01:28 PM

AmEv

10-12-2011, 07:50 PM

If you got an extended-life battery, that could help prop it up a bit.

Just worked on a DV6000 today myself that had one.

Outlaw

10-13-2011, 07:24 AM

Well, a couple of things come to mind:
For the reservoir, could mount it at the back of the cooling pad (e.g., the higher end) so that you can see it, use an acrylic one, something like http://goo.gl/uUUsp

Aren't all good laptops just portable desktops? :P

With the quick disconnects, you'd need to have some give in the tubing, so that you could lift up the laptop a few inches so you could reach the disconnects. I don't think that would really be a huge issue unless you're using huge tubing in a small cooling pad lol.

EDIT: Looking back at that res, it would work really well lol, on its side its only 1.5" tall, which isnt unreasonable at all for a cooling pad, and it has intakes for filling on both top and bottom so you could use that as a fill/drain port, out the side of the cooling pad

If I used a prebuilt pad, I wonder if the one you linked would work since I would then need an external pump too. The one I had linked was a pump/res combo.

Tubing wise, I was looking at 1/4". I could find a way to secure the tube to the pad so I wouldn't have to worry about moving the tubing for the disconnects. I think it would be small tubing in a small cooling pad base.

Aside from service, what other reason for the quick disconnect would there be? I wouldn't want to run it like that, at least not very long.

If you got an extended-life battery, that could help prop it up a bit.

Just worked on a DV6000 today myself that had one.

I do not have one, its just the standard one which is dead. lol I did look at them and do have a friend and family member with a laptop and the extended battery and they are decent. I wonder what the life would be running the pump with standard power settings.

Thanks for all the input so far!
Outlaw

diluzio91

10-13-2011, 11:12 AM

lol... if you need a radiator hit me up, i have a bunch laying around due to some upgrades for customers. I have some compression fittings that would work well for a laptop too.

AmEv

10-13-2011, 08:21 PM

Quick-disconnects...

For built-in rad.

And for "dock" cooler.

Aldersan

10-13-2011, 08:24 PM

Dil what kinda rads do you have? :D

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 02:54 AM

^^ Ditto

Build option 1:
Res/Pump- XSPC X20 200 (G1/4) (12v 3pin) ($49)
http://www.xoxide.com/x2o-200-pumpres.html

RAD- Swiftech MCR120 Quiet Power 120mm Radiator (G1/4) ($35)
http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcr120-quiet-radiator.html

CPU- Koolance GPU-220 (G1/4) Chipset Water Block ($65)
http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-gpu-220.html

GPU- Koolance CHC-125 (G1/4) Chipset Water Block ($45)
http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-chc-125.html

Barbs- XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting ($2ea x8)
http://www.xoxide.com/g1-4-to-3-8bfit.html

Tube- PrimoFlex Pro LRT 3/8in ID 5/8in OD UV Blue Tubing ($2 ft x2)
http://www.xoxide.com/primoflex-38id-58od-uvblue.html

Fill Port- Danger Den Fillport - Blue (G1/4) ($14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2194/ex-res-44/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c101s460#blank

Drain Port- Danger Den Fillport - Black (G1/4) ($14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2195/ex-res-45/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Black.html?tl=g30c101s460

T-Fitting for Drain Port- Primochill 3/8" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Blue ($2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7439/ex-tub-265/Primochill_38_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c499s745

TOTAL- $260

Build option 2:
RES- MCRES Micro Rev2 Reservoir (G1/4) ($26)
http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx

PUMP- Swiftech MCP355 3/8in Water Pump ($75)
http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcp355-pump.html

RAD- Swiftech MCR120 Quiet Power 120mm Radiator (G1/4) ($35)
http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-mcr120-quiet-radiator.html

CPU- Koolance GPU-220 Chipset Water Block (G1/4) ($65)
http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-gpu-220.html

GPU- Koolance CHC-125 Chipset Water Block (G1/4) ($45)
http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-chc-125.html

Barbs- XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting ($2ea x8)
http://www.xoxide.com/g1-4-to-3-8bfit.html

Tube- PrimoFlex Pro LRT 3/8in ID 5/8in OD UV Blue Tubing ($2 ft x2)
http://www.xoxide.com/primoflex-38id-58od-uvblue.html

Fill Port- Danger Den Fillport - Blue (G1/4) ($14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2194/ex-res-44/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c101s460#blank

Drain Port- Danger Den Fillport - Black (G1/4) ($14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2195/ex-res-45/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Black.html?tl=g30c101s460

T-Fitting for Drain Port- Primochill 3/8" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Blue ($2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7439/ex-tub-265/Primochill_38_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c499s745

TOTAL- $281

Either option = OUCH!

If I can get used parts that work.. that would be sweet.

The other thing though is, all of this is going to be WAY overkill. The CPU is ~33W and the GPU is ~11W. The Koolance CHC-125 is "rated" upto 175W per website and the Koolance GPU-220 "rated" upto 200W per a search. haha, I am a little bit under that.

What about running a dual 40mm or 80mm radiator?
Magicool Extreme Slim Profile 2X40mm Radiator- http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=336&products_id=22275 ($30 on sale for $20)

HW Labs Black Ice GTX M160 - Dual 80 millimeter Radiator- http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=336&products_id=26364 ($50)

Single 92mm?
Magicool Extreme 1X92mm Radiator- http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=336&products_id=22274 ($40)

I think this would save a lot of space and still perform well within spec. Plus, with say the dual 40's, I could save a bit of money if bought on sale (savings of ~$20) Or am I just crazy?

Oh and the quick disconnects. They are pricier then I thought.
Female- Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff Nozzle, Female Barb (10mm, 3/8") (VL3N-F10B) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11698/koo-264/Koolance_QDC_High_Flow_No-Spill_Shutoff_Nozzle_Female_Barb_10mm_38_VL3N-F10B.html?tl=g30c405 ($14 x 2)

Male- Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff Nozzle, Male Barb (10mm, 3/8") (VL3N-M10B) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11702/koo-268/Koolance_QDC_High_Flow_No-Spill_Shutoff_Nozzle_Male_Barb_10mm_38_VL3N-M10B.html?tl=g30c405s1026 ($12 x 2)

Threaded quick disconnects (1 connected to each block)
Female- Koolance QDC (High Flow) No-Spill Shutoff Nozzle, Female Threaded (VL3N-FG) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10910/koo-220/Koolance_QDC_High_Flow_No-Spill_Shutoff_Nozzle_Female_Threaded_VL3N-FG.html?tl=g30c405 ($13 x2)

Lots of info. Going to stop here. Since this doesn't included the other misc hardware needed and fluids.. I don't think this would be an immediate build unless I can talk the wife into an early bday gift. lol

Outlaw

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 03:03 AM

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 03:52 AM

AHAH! I checked that water cooled laptop thread..then went to his website, and found that it was a bad link to his pump :/ so I looked at the pic..and saw a company name on a manual behind it...google magic later reveals: http://www.kidwind.org/xcart/product.php?productid=24&cat=79&page=1

It would take a little modding to get it working right, but that's why you're on this site right? Also, $10 is a bit more affordable than $75 :)

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 04:25 AM

Fluid is easy, just a silver coil and some distilled, since you probably won't be seeing much of it :)

The disconnects are expensive, and tend to kill flow quite hard, but since its not like you need the high flow badly, I think your loop would survive, and it would be definitely nice to be able to disconnect the cooling pad for travel.

As for rad, I would think the 80 or 40.2 would be just fine for what you need :D

Res- I think going with the Swiftech micro res would still be a good idea, because it has 4 ports so you could just lead one to a fill/drain port instead of using a t-line, or even just leave it on the edge of the pad to access directly

It looks like you picked out your blocks already :)

Only thing i would suggest is maybe finding a different pump? The mcp355 would work, but I'm sure you could find a smaller one that uses less power, maybe check out that other guide to see the pump he used? I think he ended up powering it by USB too, so that would be great :D

EDIT: Is it bad that I'm so into this topic? lol

EDIT 2: Man I need to think of everything before posting, edits suck :P I forgot to mention, I posted in one of TGS's threads (the AMD bulldozer one) I may have some of that neon green butt ugly tubing from the bigwater kits, I never actually used it, I think it was around 7-8m of it, 3/8" size. I may or may not still have it, but if you're interested in it lemme know and I can send it your way instead of letting it collect dust :D

I agree. I think the disconnects would be quite beneficial. I would just need a way to protect them on the bottom of the laptop from catching on stuff. I think that would be a minor setback to the many good reasons for having them.

Cool. I was hoping the small rads would be good. I know they cost about the same, but like the disconnects, I think the pros out weigh the cons. Space savings being the biggest pro.

With the res.. and you talking about not being able to see much. I was looking at some external mounted ones like the Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 80 Inline Reservoir (BP-WTZM80P-BK) (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9574/ex-res-155/Bitspower_Water_Tank_Z-Multi_80_Inline_Reservoir_BP-WTZM80P-BK.html?tl=g30c97). It is small and could be mounted externally possibly. The current spec pad is for a 17" laptop, mine is a 15.4" so there is potentially enough room for mounting on top of pad next to laptop.

The blocks I picked can be replaced if something with similar mounting is found. I picked them for their adjustable mounting points being that these chips do not have a standard layout.

I am going to look at other pump options. Being that the tube "min" is 1.4" ID I would still need it to effectively push through everything. The dual 40's premounted barbs are 3/8" OD..

Any suggestion on a smaller but effective pump for running 3/8" plumbing? The build log doesn't show what kind of pump, just uses 2-6vdc and 1/4" plumbing. I'll have to take a look at some other rads to see if I can use a 1/4" barb on the 40's or 80's.

I think its awesome your are into it. I need the help. lol

Any help with any of the parts is appreciated. I was going to go blue, but not partial to it if I can maybe save some money. Besides, if this thing works out, I don't think anyone is going to care about the hose color. lol

Thanks for all the help.
Outlaw

EDIT::: I need to type/search faster lol. Awesome catch. I didn't even notice the book behind the pump. lol. I just worry if the pump would be effective pushing through my loop. I agree 10 dollars is way better then 75. lol Also for pumps, I was thinking of looking at the in home fountains that just sit on a table. Only prob is I don't know if they are AC or have a converter/transformer in them for DC.

Off to look at 1/4" barbed rads..

EDIT 2:::
Found a,
dual 40mm for $22 bucks but it says good fit for hoses with 5/16" (8mm)
single 80mm for $40 bucks with customizable fittings. I could get the 1/4 for this one.
dual 80mm for $40 bucks with customizable fittings. I could get the 1/4 for this one

Using 1/4" plumbing, I think (please correct if wrong) I would be able to use a smaller pump like the Kidwind one and still have it efficient because it would increase the pressure and raising flow slightly.

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 04:40 AM

Lol exactly. For the quick disconnects, I was thinking putting rubber grommets around the holes in the cooling pad, so that its not metal on metal and would prevent a lot of scratching. Another possibility would be to put some rubber feet on the laptop to keep it from sliding on the cooling pad, or make the holes for the quick disconnects a little wider than they need to be so nothing gets wrecked if they get nudged. Another possibility would to have some pegs or something stick up from the cooling pad and fit into holes in the bottom of the laptop to keep it from moving while its on it. As for protecting them, im assuming you mean when the pad is disconnected? You could probably make up a false "base" for the laptop, maybe a giant foam pad with cutouts for the nozzles?

The smallest pumps I found were actually the mcp355 and phobya's dc12-220 (http://goo.gl/jZZIc).

Since you're looking at that bitspower res, I think it would look awesome mounted at an angle off the back of the cooling pad, possibly as a backrest for the LCD on the laptop? Then you could show your fluid off, maybe get blue fluid if you really wanted blue?

About the rad, you mistyped, its 3/8" ID not OD ;) as for 3/8", the mcp355 is made for that, and the phobya has generic G1/4 threads so you could easily just throw some on there :D

I feel like a kid in a candy store when i think about all the possibilities for this mod lol

Np, count on more help if I can give any :D
Alder

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 05:25 AM

I could definitely do the grommets for the pad to protect the edges from rubbing on the hoses. And, yes I was concerned more when the hoses are disconnected as the barbs would be pointed straight down about 1.5" give or take.

If the laptop/pad combo is like the one we have now with our other laptop, I don't think sliding around will be an issue BUT with it being LC, better safe then sorry.

I like that with the mount of the res. I would probably just use some elbows to do a 90 directly into the base. The res would allow for easy fill, and I could do something in the base for draining. Or figure out a way to make a "flush system" like the ones for cars and coolant flushes.

I would use green if able to use your supplied hoses. The blue was going to be an attempt to get the wife to at least like it when finished. lol Plus the blue matches most of the leds on the laptop. (pwr and quick play buttons are all blue).

Sorry bout the rad info. It wont work if I go 1/4" anyways, lol

With the pumps, its almost worth the 10 bucks just to try it on the loop, but if it didn't work, I would be using one of the $40+ pumps. With the higher rated 12v pumps, could I have a switch that runs them at 5v or 12v or would that just wreck the pump? I only ask because some give power ranges where some give 1 set voltage.

Thanks again.
Outlaw

ps. diluzio91, you have a pm

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 05:38 AM

For the pump, I'm not sure. It honestly depends on the pump, and how it likes to run at lower voltages. Some just won't run under a certain voltage, say 8v or so. Others wont run at all unless at 12v, I really dunno. Some pumps also have speed controls, but I'm not sure about those two.

Another thing I just thought of (silly me) is power. I'm not quite sure how you'd manage to get it to run off the laptop's power (plus it'd prolly drain the battery really fast) but if you're cool with wired, im sure you could use a typical power adapter (e.g. http://goo.gl/UQq7m just a quick google search for reference) and pop the end off and wire up a molex connecter for the pump, maybe an off-on-5v switch somewhere in the middle? you'd have to ask someone with more electrical experience than me lol.

To make your wife happy: if you're going to use fittings straight into the base, you could probably use blue fluid if its only going to be visible in the res, and just use the green tubing inside the pad :P

Speaking of res, you could simply use the same port for fill/drain, just tilt the whole thing on its side :) bit more hassle, but slightly cheaper :)

Honestly, I think that the res mounted on the top/back end of the cooling pad, at an angle for the lcd to rest on it comfortably, with the 40.2/80mm res below it, fan(s) facing out the back, would be kind of a cool look :D pop a few LED's all over the place and call it good!

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 07:16 AM

Done and good! lol

Just repricing everything for 1/4".. who knew the barbs and tubing is more expensive then the 3/8 or larger. Guess it's not in too much of a demand.

Well, after a long search. I think I got everything.

Blocks:::
CPU- Koolance GPU-220 Chipset Water Block (G1/4) ($65)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10224/ex-blc-711/Koolance_GPU-220_High_Performance_VGA_Chipset_Liquid_Cooling_Bl ock_No_Nozzles_.html?tl=g30c89s147

GPU- Koolance CHC-122 Chipset Water Block (G1/4) ($45)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7253/ex-blc-455/Koolance_CHC-122_MB_Liquid_Cooling_Chipset_Block_No_Fittings.ht ml?tl=g30c89s147

Barbs:::
Block Barbs 1- Danger Den G 1/4" High Flow Thread Barb - 1/4" ID ($3 x2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6437/ex-tub-152/Danger_Den_G_14_High_Flow_Thread_Barb_-_14_ID.html?tl=g30c407s1028

Block Barbs 2- Koolance QDC (Extreme Flow) No-Spill, Female Threaded G 1/4 (VL2N-FG) ($12 x2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12203/koo-269/Koolance_QDC_Extreme_Flow_No-Spill_Female_Threaded_G_14_VL2N-FG.html?tl=g30c405s1341

Koolance QDC (Extreme Flow) No-Spill, Male Panel Barb (6mm, 1/4")(VL2N-M06B-P) ($11 x2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12207/koo-271/Koolance_QDC_Extreme_Flow_No-Spill_Male_Panel_Barb_6mm_14VL2N-M06B-P.html?tl=g30c405s1341

Res Barbs- Koolance G1/4 Swivel 90° Angled Barb w/ Clamp (6mm / 1/4" ID) - Single - (NZL-L06B) ($6 x2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9508/koo-189/Koolance_G14_Swivel_90_Angled_Barb_w_Clamp_6mm_14_ ID_-_Single_-_NZL-L06B.html?tl=g30c407s1028

Plumbing and Accessories:::
Tube- Tygon R-3603 1/4" ID (3/8" OD) - Laboratory Tubing ($2ft x2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2293/ex-tub-34/Tygon_R-3603_14_ID_38_OD_-_Laboratory_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s170

Drain Port- Danger Den Fillport - Blue ($14)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2194/ex-res-44/Danger_Den_Fillport_-_Blue.html?tl=g30c101s460

T-Fitting for Drain Port- 1/4" ID UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting ($3)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2281/ex-tub-20/14_ID_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_T_Fitting.html?tl=g30c 499s745

Reducer- FrozenCPU 3/8" to 1/4" UV Reactive Leakproof Reducer ($2 x2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2287/ex-tub-26/FrozenCPU_38_to_14_UV_Reactive_Leakproof_Reducer.h tml?tl=g30c427s459

Pump:::
Pump- KidWind ultra small low voltage pump 1/4" ($10)
http://www.kidwind.org/xcart/product.php?productid=24

Radiator:::
RAD- MagiCool Mini II Dual 40mm Radiator (3/8") ($22)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11761/ex-rad-185/MagiCool_Mini_II_Dual_40mm_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95 s1311#blank

FAN- Sunon MagLev-Vapo 40mm x 20mm Fan w/ TAC Sensor Wire - Bare Wire (HA40201V4-0000-C99) ($17 x2)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9367/fan-587/Sunon_MagLev-Vapo_40mm_x_20mm_Fan_w_TAC_Sensor_Wire_-_Bare_Wire_HA40201V4-0000-C99.html?tl=g36c15s560#blank

I guess I will put the KidWind pump as the pump for now. Better to spend 10 bucks and have it not work, then 70 and have it blow the lines, lol

For power. There is no portability. lol The battery is dead and last I checked (years ago), it only held power long enough to shut down after unplugging ac. Right now, the current power supply for the laptop only is 90W.

I could get one larger psu or 2 separate ones. If 2, I could make a 'plug' in the side of the pad to supply both psu's and to just have one ac plug used.

The making the wife happy part is she likes blue. I think the blue would look cool too. Since you said you had 3/8" hose. I put some clear Tygon hose on the list now. If you have green 1/4", bonus. lol

I left the 40x2 rad for price and just figure I could get some 1/4 - 3/8 adapter for that.

With the res, I think I would still do a drain port with a T just for convenience. Plus I don't want to risk having the res drip on the pad when draining. Filling, I would use the res and prob just a small funnel if necessary.

I could do some blue (if sticking with that theme) led's behind the fan/res to illuminate that. I think it would give a cool effect, then maybe like you said, some placed throughout the pad.

And I came across a LC laptop build where the integrated a temp readout into the laptop. If this worked, I think I would do that too. lol Never hurts to know the temp.

Thanks,
Outlaw

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 07:40 AM

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 08:26 AM

Couple things come to mind:

I'm a bit confused as to how you'd get just one set of quick disconnects would work for both blocks :P If you wanna make a quick paint sketch or something to clarify that'd be cool :)

That drain port is for bigger tubing, check the danger den website lol. you may be better off with something like this, it also eliminates your need for a T http://goo.gl/AyJIp

Next, I'm not quite sure of your work area/tool situation, but you could probably save quite a bit on tubing/reducers if you simply cut off the pre-existing barbs and tapped it with G1/4 threads. I'm sure someone on these forums could easily help you out with that :)

For power wise, if you can get decent flow with that tiny pump, remember how guy before just wired it up to usb? that would eliminate your need for a second psu :D If it doesn't, theres gotta be some way you could (either off the laptop or the psu) splice a molex connecter in there somewhere :)

And yeah, that temp lcd would be cool :D

http://oi56.tinypic.com/27x2xkm.jpg
Blue is the tube between cpu/gpu, the quick connects would just thread one to each block. Hope that helps clear it up. I know my paint skills are top notch. lol

With the drain port, it just seemed cheaper to use the larger one, lol. I think it would be cleaner with one like you linked though and might be cheaper in the end. Thanks.

Unfortunately, If I want to even have access to a modding area, I would have to drive about 20miles to get there. I'm not sure if a 1/4 tap is available either so that would be a 1 and done purchase. I could just bump to a 80x1 or 80x2 which has interchangeable barb option. Overall, I might just because the fans suck for 40mm, mostly high rpm/db with low air movement.

For power.. I wouldn't be too concerned for the wiring side I guess, more so what the actual laptop draw percent of the 90W is. If it was 80W peek under load, I would do a 2nd power supply or get a larger one to supply everything. The area I really don't have an understanding is the battery. If I "made" a battery pack to run everything for x amount of time, how would that reflect in XP and how would that effect charging/discharging.

Temp readout would probably be the easiest (not necessarily the cheapest) part of this upgrade. lol

Thanks again,
Outlaw

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 08:39 AM

From a bit of google magic, best way to find laptop power drain is, surprise, a kill-a-watt on the ac adapter :D you could use that to find the power of your lappy at load, though since, from more google magic, the laptop appears to support both 65 and 90w power adapters, i think you should have plenty of headroom.

Switching to the 80.1 or 80.2 rads wouldnt be a bad idea, but i would check and see what you've got for clearance on the cooling pad, or how high you'd be willing to raise it.
Also, I may be blind, but I see no pic :P But your explanation did clear it up, I didn't think you would route tubing inside the actual laptop is all, instead using 4 quick disconnects, but using 2 does make it neater and easier to remove.

I'm not quite sure how you would make a battery, it might almost be easier to just pick up an extended battery like suggested before, however they do tend to incline laptops a bit and that could make the cooling pad awkward. Things to consider :)

I think we've made a tad of progress :)

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 09:13 AM

I don't want to buy a kill a watt meter. lol another probably one and done, maybe 2.

I pm'd you a link. but incase it didn't work for all the other interested peoples. http://i56.tinypic.com/27x2xkm.jpg

I'm not sure if the laptop spacing between the board and case would allow for it to run inside the laptop. I will probably have to change the standard barbs to a 90 or 45 elbow and run it outside. I think it would still be cleaner and less messy then 4 disconnects.

I know from a friends experience you can make battery packs for his rc cars. I would think this is the same concept but on a larger scale. If this were the case I could get higher rated mH cells and it would ultimately make it last longer on battery power. I agree and dont think the extended battery would be good for this project if it were to be raised as high as the referenced cooler pad. If I somehow make the pad, I could rearrange some of the components to allow it to be a little more low profile which could help an extended battery install situation? did that make sense? lol

Agreed, lots of 'thought progress' done overnight.

Outlaw

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 09:24 AM

Pic still not working for me, but regardless, can you give me an estimated distance between your two chips? im just curious as to possibilities of linking them..more or less something like http://goo.gl/0MnAd , instead of tubing, might be a bit more secure, or you could use crystal link stuff by bitspower, bit more expensive, and regardless of using tubing or those, i'd definitely make a groove in the cooling pad so that there' s no pressure put on them while its sitting there. If it were me, I'd try to possibly grind/cut out a grove for the pass-through to lay as far embedded in the laptop as it could be, to prevent being knocked loose or anything, and also have the groove in the cooling pad. All depends on the laptop body though, and how the fittings fit :)

Also, if nothing else, you could squeeze the liquid cooling components into as small of a space as you reasonably could and fill the rest of the cooler+ with the battery pack, always ideas :)

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 09:30 AM

I would say the two chips are a good 6-8 inches apart. I don't think those would work. Good thought though. I would definitely make sure there is clearance for the plumbing underneath, even if that means buying bigger rubber feet for the bottom of the laptop. If its a custom pad, I may not have the tools to notch out the pad.

The bottom of the laptop is flat. Only things extruding from the base is the little rubber feet.

The battery pack would be after the WC project. I think some of the cells can be pretty pricey. ill have to sketch a design for a pad though.

Outlaw

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 09:38 AM

Sweet, let me know whenever you get that sketch done! I think we've covered most of the things I could think of till we see the sketch.

Also, tell your wife I'm sorry for giving you such bad ideas :P

Good luck!

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 09:51 AM

Should have time today or some time during the weekend hopefully.

I'll tell her it's all your fault. haha. But you just encouraged already bad thoughts to be worse.

Thanks,
Outlaw

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 11:12 AM

Speaking of bad thoughts to worse, under my name and post count, I'm now apparently an ATX Mental Case rofl

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 12:42 PM

Haha, congrats!

Good News?
I have won the bid on a motherboard. :crossed::crossed:
Ordered the HSF for that board :crossed::crossed:
Ordered the ribbons for Pwr/QuickPlay
Ordered 1.2mm shims for chipset :crossed::crossed:

There is a lot of finger crossing going on. I really hope this works. I should have all necessary parts by 11/2 at the latest (skldfjsdlf overseas shipping)

Outlaw

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 12:54 PM

D; no kidding! that's like..forever to wait!

Outlaw

10-14-2011, 01:01 PM

Yeah, It was the cheapest I could find with no shipping charge. It is just a piece of copper! It doesn't cost 6 bucks to ship. lol

Shim eta- 10/26-11/2 (asdlkad lol)
HSF- 10/18-10/24
Ribbons- 10/19-10/25
Mobo- 10/18-10/19

And of course the 1 part I MUST have before turning on is going to take the longest to get here. If anything, I will use the recommended penny to test that it works for return policy.

I got all the laptop pics necessary, just need to work on cooler. Maybe after some sleep.

Outlaw

EDIT::: Oh and hopefully this board works. I accidentally ordered the "wrong" one through my phone... wonderful fat fingers. It's the 449902-001, and from what I understand, its the same board as the original one I wanted with the 8400m but accepts faster fsb/ram. Hopefully this will be an OK mistake.

Aldersan

10-14-2011, 01:07 PM

I agree im pooped too lol, catch ya later, can always send me a pm if you got any questions or what not, I don't know everything but I can always do my best :D or just post it here and let the general audience figure it all out lol

Outlaw

10-16-2011, 01:17 AM

Well.. here is a very rough sketch done with paint. I think it covers the big stuff.

http://i55.tinypic.com/25qymc0.jpg

Outlaw

AmEv

10-16-2011, 01:34 AM

Like how the MoBo is above the WC system!

Outlaw

10-16-2011, 01:41 AM

Thanks! One of the things I wasn't sure of was where the pump should be in the loop. In the pic it comes after the RAD. The Loop is: RES>RAD>PUMP>CPU>GPU>RES

I wish I had skills in sketchup or the like for a much more detailed draft.

Here would be a possible candidate for temp sensors. http://www.xoxide.com/blue-lcd-temp-sensor.html

Aldersan

10-16-2011, 01:45 AM

looks pretty good! only two suggestions I could think of: maybe put some curve in the bottom, or something to allow airflow to both sides of the rad, would help keep things cool, and maybe find a way to mount a small fan controller on the side, so you can turn the fans down if you're not doing anything huge :) im using two of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10585/cpa-323/Lian_Li_PCI_3_Fan_Rheobus_Speed_Controller_PT-FN03.html?id=q4KcMS6k&mv_pc=308 but I may be able to condense it down to one and send you the spare, if you want one to work with when you get that far, it works really well :D

Outlaw

10-16-2011, 02:11 AM

That would be nice If I go manual controls. And if I do, that part would be handy. I was debating on wiring the rad fans to the mobo controlled header and let it do the rpms as needed. 2 80's shouldn't draw too much juice I don't think, but the manual control would remove all the "burn out" possibilities.

With 3 headers on that controller, I could even add a third (or 2 wired to 1 header) fan to maybe the side/s under the 'USB' instead of the bottom to allow an intake. Then it wouldn't matter the surface it's set on.

Depending on the size of this pad, I think I would try to mount the rheo facing up for easier control and less chance of snag if set on a blanket or on its side for fill/drain. Donno though, just a thought.

Any thought on speaker addition?

Thanks!
Outlaw

Aldersan

10-16-2011, 12:03 PM

Unfortunately I'm not very knowledgeable about speakers lol, only thing I could think of would be cracking open a cheap pair of speakers and mounting the insides into the pad, probably not a very elegant solution lol

Aldersan

10-16-2011, 12:13 PM

Also what areyou planning on making the cooler out of? I was thinking probably aluminum, but acrylic could look pretty sweet too, then you could show off your hard work inside :p

Outlaw

10-16-2011, 12:44 PM

Yeah, I wasn't sure on the speakers either yet. Just messing with the idea.

I was looking at aluminum. There is a 19.5"x19.5"x1mm anodized on frozencpu. I could maybe do both. Alum frame with acrylic window? The alum would help keep it sturdy and not look so bad when scratched.

Aldersan

10-16-2011, 12:55 PM

Maybe you should make top and bottom out of aluminum and sides out of acrylic? Then you wouldn't have to worry about scratching the top or bottom, but could get some cool inside views of it!

Outlaw

10-16-2011, 02:02 PM

Well have to see how far this goes. I think the acrylic won't be too expensive at the local HW store but the aluminum doesn't look too cheap. lol. One for the other I guess. Might be able to do the front out of acrylic.. that would kinda be cool.

Outlaw

10-17-2011, 04:38 AM

Is there a cheaper cooler with the spec I need? lol. If I can find one like the pic shows below for under 20bucks I think I would be in good shape.

http://i53.tinypic.com/wt87wy.jpg

I'm going to keep searching. I think this might actually be a better bet. Even the 20 dollar one is cheaper then a sheet of alum that I would need 2 of as well. Plus the premade is already vented, it would just need some cutting to make room for additions.

EDIT:::

Here is a couple pics unedited (except for flip) of what I am talking about just in case someone wasn't sure.

1. Massive23 CS would be ~5" tall which would be plenty of room for the rad and provide enough head room for extra internal components. The prob is the 15.4" laptop is just over 14" wide and the pad is only 13".

2. Massive 23 ST has the same problem as CS. But it shows what my plan would be to help save "manufacturing" cost.
http://i53.tinypic.com/r7jbl1.jpg

EDIT2:::

I found one fairly close to the original design. Silverstone Noble Breeze NB01B Notebook Cooler
http://www.hardwarelogic.com/articles/reviews/cooling/Silverstone_NB01B/Silverstone_NB01B_Quarter_Front_Laptop.jpg

http://www.hardwarelogic.com/articles/reviews/cooling/Silverstone_NB01B/Silverstone_NB01B_Side_Right.jpg

OR the Cryo LX. It is 16.5" wide which would be nice but to double it up would cost 140. Would have to find a way to make it taller to fit the rad and still make it look nice.
http://www.notebookcoolerreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/a_nzxt_cryo_lx_black_laptop_cooler_back_view1-300x154.jpg

Aldersan

10-18-2011, 03:59 AM

I like that silverstone one! maybe add 1-2"" on the bottom, put the temp displays right on that front slanted section! If you could get your speaker idea working, you could put it in the sides towards the back, and either keep the mesh or maybe go with acrylic for the sides :) Lots of possibilities! plus it doesn't look like you'd need to do a whole lot drilling-wise for the QDC's to have access to the pad, with those large fan holes.

Outlaw

10-18-2011, 04:32 AM

The only one wide enough without modding would be the Cryo. The Thermaltakes would be perfect to double up but would need to be widened some how to allow for un blocked speakers and sides withe acrylic. If it were the silverstone, I think i would leave the mesh but it would allow for the option as the holes are already done and threaded. That one might be the easiest to add panels to the sides to widen it too. Would just have to find the materials.

All but the Cryo would be good for the hoses as it wouldn't need too heavy duty of cutting tools so I could do this easily. We'll have to see when that time gets closer. Still need to find some other blocks that have the adjustable arms on them. 40 and 60 bucks is what is killing the budget on this loop..

Outlaw

10-18-2011, 06:02 PM

Yey!

Motherboard and Ribbon cables are here. boards are visually an exact match except for hdmi and 8400m. so far so good. Should have heatsink within the next couple days. Shims are still looking to be the 10/26-11/2 though :(

AmEv

10-18-2011, 06:40 PM

Do a dry test of the setup!

Outlaw

10-18-2011, 07:06 PM

I can't do anything else.

verified the board fits (beside the hdmi port I need to notch out of laptop.)
verified cables route to proper location

That is really all I can do until I at minimum get the heatsink. I can stick a penny over the chipset at least to test. Then wait for the proper shims to show.

AmEv

10-18-2011, 07:11 PM

Ohhh..

Heatsink. Just SLIGHTLY important.

Outlaw

10-18-2011, 08:02 PM

lol. yes.

Unfortunately, the original heatsink doesn't mount the same as this replacement board.

Aldersan

10-20-2011, 02:33 AM

ETA for heatsink?

Outlaw

10-20-2011, 11:53 PM

Today Mother Trucker!! lol Sry, excited.

I should hopefully have some pics up later.

Outlaw

10-21-2011, 05:56 AM

Well. I would consider the swap a success with a couple exceptions.

Exceptions
1. Still need proper shims (used penny's to test hardware)
2. CPU still getting really hot per core temp.

Here are some pics and screenshots. If specific pics wanted, please let me know. I still have to pull apart at least 1 more time.

Old and New board:
http://i52.tinypic.com/2qdzd74.jpg

HSF and Mr Lincoln installed:
http://i52.tinypic.com/qxkj9x.jpg

Boot test:
http://i52.tinypic.com/ivll4n.jpg

Tada!!:
http://i53.tinypic.com/4g4rnr.jpg

Together.. well except for the keyboard I forgot at home, lol:
http://i56.tinypic.com/fxy0i0.jpg

The image on there now is actually from about 2 years ago. Surprisingly it loaded without an issue considering it had been sitting out of the PC and I changed the board out. The temp per Core Temp was quite high though so I think I will have to notch out the bottom at least or come up with a few extra bucks to get all the necessary parts for water cooling.

Outlaw

10-23-2011, 07:28 PM

Well. Bad news. After attempting a fresh install of Windows, I lost com with the DVD-Rom. BIOS or Windows doesn't detect. Even when unplugging and plugging back in. It powers up and spins but nothing in comp mgmt. Updated bios to latest version without success. Contacted seller for assistance. :( I was able to get a better shim then the penny to bring temps way down until it exits power save and bumps up to 1.8ghz, then I quick the app.

Outlaw

11-03-2011, 03:56 AM

Not sure if this needs to be moved to a modding section yet but I may be able (small possibility) to get a single block cut for the CPU, CHP and GPU. Using 1/4" plumbing would give me some routing options in the block as well as into a cooler pad.

Block dimensions: 1/2" thick x 4" wide (at widest point) x 6.5" long (at longest point)

Option 1:
Pros:
Would be least "invasive" and only have 1 hole needing a plug leaving fewer risk for leaks.
Run over CPU and CHP.
Cons:
May not be as effective as pulling heat away through water.
Inlet would come in from battery bay leaving power supply use only.
1 plugged port leaving risk for leaks

Option 2:
Pros:
Move inlet to come from fan bay which is already removed.
Run over CPU and CHP
Only 2 plugged ports needed
Cons:
2 plugged ports leaving risk for leaks.

Option 3:
Pros:
Move inlet to come from fan bay which is already removed.
Run over CPU and CHP and GPU
Routed for better exposure to heat sources.
Cons:
4 plugged ports leaving risk for leaks

http://i39.tinypic.com/168sr4h.jpg

Any thoughts, ideas?

Thanks,
Outlaw

AmEv

11-03-2011, 09:19 AM

Another option you can consider is a "sandwich" block.

Carve out what you need, and water-proof the rim.

Outlaw

11-03-2011, 10:27 AM

Thanks.

I did discuss it with him. Finding the block for a reasonable price is going to be key first. He said they usually deal with copper sheets upto ~1/4". Even if I did the sandwich, I would need the bottom block 1/2" to allow for the barbs to secure properly since its going to be a side entrance.

I'm not sure they can do the machining for the channeling though from the top. I can ask tomorrow when I see him at work. He is going to see if they can do option 2 or 3 at work and a ballpark price on the block of copper.

Thanks,
Outlaw

Outlaw

11-03-2011, 07:29 PM

He said, the block cutout is about $104.... umm... lol hm.. what to do now. lol

Look at still using copper block for water cooling or get the CHP blocks and hope I can cool the CHP properly since the blocks will only cover the CPU and GPU leaving a less then optimal cooling solution as the only way to cool the CHP...

What to do?!
Outlaw

Outlaw

11-04-2011, 12:56 AM

Well I got a call and text earlier. He was able to make a block out of 1/4" copper for free using scrap. The idea was brought up to run 1/4" copper tubing along the surface, looping it around instead of trying to do all the work inside the block. 1/4" slab of copper I think will definitely be beneficial but the water loop will replace a wimpy 40-60mm fan internally with a 120mm fan/rad mounted somewhere externally and just plan look cooler then some dumb heatsink only. lol

Outlaw

edit:::
almost forgot the pic. Top is the 1/4" copper, bottom is the cardboard template
http://i42.tinypic.com/2usbx9l.jpg

edit2:::
Going to see what kind of loop they can put on top of the block in the morning. In order of preference.
http://i41.tinypic.com/2hg703s.jpg

Outlaw

11-04-2011, 09:33 AM

He came into work today with the block.

Block on mobo.
http://i43.tinypic.com/2viiazb.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/2ro00go.jpg

Side View... oh noes BIG Gap!
http://i40.tinypic.com/5krh8y.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/bi6vth.jpg

He's taking it back to make some changes for the mounting holes and hopefully to help lower the gap over the CHP. This block is heavy too! lol

Outlaw

AmEv

11-04-2011, 10:03 AM

Awww!

You don't have that 2nd mPCIe slot!

You could've put an SSD into that 2nd slot!

Good luck, though!

Outlaw

11-04-2011, 11:13 AM

The one next to the wifi? Yeah, that was option I think on the HP's which they didn't use on my series.

I don't think it would be too beneficial, but if I don't get a board working with the DVD-Rom (not 100% necessary as it images perfectly via flashdrive), I will have an opening in the laptop where an SSD could fit. Downside is I don't have the budget for an SSD. Plus if I were going to go SSD, I would make that the primary (current HDD is 160GB @ 5400RPM). I would use the SSD as the primary OS drive and get another 2.5" Sata to USB HDD for storage in teh DVD-Rom slot.

Thanks! I will keep this updated or just wait till it's done. The guy doing the block wants to test the temps without the plumbing to see if there is any real gains to the water cooling loop.

Outlaw

Outlaw

11-08-2011, 02:10 AM

Currently waiting on the block to get shaved down at the mounting points so it will sit flush with the chips. Once all is said and done, two tests will be done. 1- 1/4" block only for cooling, 2- block with 1/4" WC block

Also have the mobo out on RMA for the DVD-Rom not detected/working.

While waiting I had a question or few.

1. Should I run 2 of the pumps (KidWind Project Pump (http://www.kidwind.org/xcart/product.php?productid=24)). If I calculated right, they are about 32GPH at 5V?
2. Should I use quick connects at the OE fan grille to allow for laptop remove from cooling pad or just secure laptop to cooling pad?
3. Do you think this RAD/FAN (http://www.silentpcreview.com/scythe-setsugen) would be efficient enough?

For the pumps, I wasn't sure if 1 pump would be effecient enough to push through the entire loop on the block plus the Rad. A Res is still up in the air at this point depending on the cooler pad room and mounting options.

Thanks,
Outlaw

edit:::
I also now have a TL-62 instead of the oe TL-56. The TL-62 is 2.1Ghz, TL-56- is 1.8Ghz\
I was also considering bumping (maxing) the RAM out at 4GB.
If budget allowed, I would also be looking to get a 7200RPM HDD or an SSD but not sure the low disk space to performance would be worth it since the games would need to be installed on the SSD.

Outlaw

11-10-2011, 02:07 PM

Ok. What do you guys think of this HS/F to be used in a WC loop?

http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/skuimages/large/U12-40658-main-ge.jpg

LINK (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4974359&CatId=1588)

It is an 80mm fan mounted to the HS. The mounting points could give me some alternative options like mounting to back of display with ease so I could run without a pad if desired. It would still take some fabrication of the HS itself to fit the plumbing though. Oh, and it is also 30bucks less!

Thanks,
Outlaw

xr4man

11-10-2011, 04:39 PM

i'm not getting how that would be adapted to a WC setup.

Outlaw

11-10-2011, 11:47 PM

The end of the pipes would be cut to accommodate the 1/4" tubing. The Heatpipes are 1/4" OD and copper.

xr4man

11-11-2011, 09:43 AM

i'm not sure you want to cut those pipes. i don't know what kind of pressures the gasses inside are under or how toxic they are. but you might not want to let them out.

AmEv

11-11-2011, 10:35 AM

Naw, just simply move the fins and fan separate from the heatpipe, and bend your own personal tubing.

Outlaw

11-11-2011, 11:28 AM

I have seen other posts where it had been done with other coolers (not that it means it is safe). Plus I don't see how I could remove the heatpipe from the fins and "re-pipe" it where it will be as efficient as the original pipe.

Copied from Wiki (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe)
At the hot interface within a heat pipe, which is typically at a very low pressure, a liquid in contact with a thermally conductive solid surface turns into a vapor by absorbing heat from that surface.

A vacuum pump is used to remove all air from the empty heat pipe, and then the pipe is filled with a fraction of a percent by volume of working fluid (or coolant) chosen to match the operating temperature. Examples of such fluids include water, ethanol, acetone, sodium, or mercury.

The materials chosen depend on the temperature conditions in which the heat pipe must operate, with coolants ranging from liquid helium for extremely low temperature applications (2–4 K) to mercury (523–923 K) & sodium (873–1473 K) and even indium (2000–3000 K) for extremely high temperatures. The vast majority of heat pipes for low temperature applications use some combination of ammonia (213–373 K), alcohol (methanol (283–403 K) or ethanol (273–403 K)) or water (303–473 K) as working fluid.

I am still looking for something to use as the rad and the cpu/chipset cpu's with heatpipes seems like it would be the way to go for cost and efficiency.

::edit::
I could pull the H50 off my current rig then use the pump and rad in the laptop loop.
Reference link minus the res. (http://www.overclock.net/t/647943/guide-h50-replace-tubes-and-res-mod)

Thanks,
Outlaw

Outlaw

11-12-2011, 10:37 AM

Got good news. New board is on it's way back to me.

I will be able to get the heatsink fitted now. Should have it by the end of the week.

Outlaw

11-14-2011, 04:29 AM

Copper block is being fitted with 1/4" ID 3/8"OD plumbing over 1/4" thick copper block covering all chips.

I will likely have to get some 1/4" barbs for the copper tubing. Looking like it would be pretty hard to stretch 1/4" tube over 3/8" even with heat.

I was also considering this laptop pad as it already has a pump (usb), rad, plumbing, fan and is already mounted.
http://www.overclock.net/image/id/940658/width/550/height/280/flags/LL

I couldn't find any reviews on it though but have found for 75 plus shipping.

Even a cheaper heatsink, pump (usb or 12v), plumbing, pad will cost more then $75. Only hesitant because of no known reviews on cooler pad.

**update**
Cooler block brought into work today for update.
http://i43.tinypic.com/29lhfzo.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/23st5l4.jpg

Luke122

11-14-2011, 07:46 PM

I also now have a TL-62 instead of the oe TL-56. The TL-62 is 2.1Ghz, TL-56- is 1.8Ghz

Ah ok, I was going to offer you a TL-60.. :)

AS for the SSD, I did an article about real world performance gains in laptops with an SSD on my blog.. short answer: 25% faster boot time on average, and significant increase in application response.

But of course since the dv6000 only allows one drive, it's an issue. A DV9000 however can have two hdd's.. just a thought. :)

Outlaw

11-15-2011, 12:14 AM

Thanks for the thought! Isn't that what really matters? lol

Yeah, the SSD I think would be nice, but for the cost I don't think I will be able to get a decent one size wise. It will ultimately be used for gaming at a small lan with co-workers every other wed so the size will need to be decent for installed games.

I will have to look at 7200rpm i think or just save for a good SSD.

For the DV9000, I did have a chance to get one with the same issue as mine which I actually fixed for the computer shop. He offered me to purchase it for $150 but there is no dedicated graphics and the motherboards are quite a bit more expensive over any of the DV6000 series boards, plus find a decent graphics installed one. The dual HDD would be nice though. Ultimately, I could use the DVD-Rom slot for an external storage type if needed.

Still have to figure out the cooler pad for all the stuff needed.

Current parts:
Block shown above
Thermaltake Delta DC 12V Pump 3pin 72L/Hr (~$20)
http://site.casemodwholesale.com/ebay2007/casefan/120mm/Deltapump02-T.jpg

Thermaltake 80mm Copper Water cooling radiator F 1/4" (quite thick and could make hard to find mount location with fan) (~$27)
http://site.casemodwholesale.com/ebay2007/casefan/120mm/80RADIATOR-T.jpg
OR
Scythe SCVSG-1000 Setsugen (would need quite a bit of mod but thin build makes ideal fit) (~$45)
http://www.aerocooler.com/products/FANSCSG1K_m.jpg

All prices are shipped prices.
Outlaw

**update**
found a non-working dv9000/8600m GS with a current bid of $120 (14hr left). That wouldn't include the price of a board if the reflow wouldn't work.

Luke122

11-15-2011, 12:27 PM

Well, how about I make you the greatest offer of all time..

I have a DV9000 with NVidia 8400m graphics, and an Intel CPU... and I will give to you for free, but you pay shipping.

I would like to keep the screen from it, since I can use that on my dv6000 board, but I will send you the complete unit otherwise.. it has the nvidia failure (I repaired once with a reflow, but it didnt last) so I know it can be repaired again. :)

I'll verify all the details tonight when I get home, and let you know. :)

Outlaw

11-15-2011, 02:10 PM

you sir, have peaked my interest. lol ohnoes!!!

i have to get to bed but will for sure be on here a little before work and definitely during work assuming the issues have been fixed. I'll look for your pm then.

Outlaw

Outlaw

11-17-2011, 12:41 PM

Got the new board installed and everything is good to go on that end now. With the stock cooling, it still its 90C+ just doing the windows rating. Running it in power saver until a better solution is installed.

Also got the cooler back with 3/8 tubing installed. Problem though. Cooler is slightly tweaked from what im assuming was the heating process for tubing. Also, there is too much gap from CPU to CHP to GPU. Going to see if the block can be cut to separate the CPU/CHP from the GPU.

Outlaw

11-21-2011, 03:08 AM

still pending block changes.

update-
even in power save, running at 803Mhz (vs normal 2.1Ghz). playing a video in windowed mode still brought temps up pretty high.

Speedfan
GPU- 51max
Core- 75max
Temp1- 74max
HD0- 42max

This is with the stock cooler, proper shim and AS5 on all 3 chips.

AmEv

11-21-2011, 11:07 AM

Hey, I remember getting my laptop up to 80 when folding.

O.O

What a nightmare that was!

Outlaw

11-21-2011, 01:22 PM

lol, yeah.

If it were 80max, I would be OK with that. Max per CPU spec sheet is 95. I have seen the cpu when not throttle spike to 93 which is too close for comfort. I can play hd video at 800Mhz although it does stutter slightly. Full cpu power and its fine but not until this cooling solution is done.

BTW:
I think I narrowed down the core parts list.
Waterblock x2 (1/4" OD)- $41
http://site.casemodwholesale.com/ebay2007/casefan/120mm/Block01-T.jpg

Pump (20GPH 1/4" OD)- $19
http://site.casemodwholesale.com/ebay2007/casefan/120mm/Deltapump02-T.jpg

Radiator (80mm 1/4" OD)- $27
http://site.casemodwholesale.com/ebay2007/casefan/120mm/80RADIATOR-T.jpg

Total incl. ship- $87

I would still need:
fan
hose
zip ties (if i don't have enough)
res (optional $20)
cooler pad
quick connects
temp sensor and accessories

OR

Should I get an H60 (has rotating barbs on pump) and mod it with blocks? The pump goes for 55(shipped) and up.