View Full Version : Evolutionary

02-28-2007, 01:18 PM
This project is sponsored by:








Hi guys. Some of you will remember me of the casemod AlumaxX.


I won the Dutch casemod championship with it. Today I will start with something new, not a casemod but a custom build case. Some people told me they thought it was easier to mod an existing case then to build one yourself. I think it is easier to build it yourself and to prove it I will start building one :naughty:

I found some sponsors for this project, so that's why I can already start a new project.

Bill Donnelly from Sapphire (http://www.sapphiretech.com) gave me a very nice white motherboard



Thanks Bill :thumb: :thumb:


Alex Chen from A.C. Ryan (http://www.acryan.com) send me a huge box with casemod materials :jawdrop:



Thanks Alex Chen from A.C. Ryan (http://www.acryan.com) :clap: :clap: :clap:


Powersupply was a price at the Dutch casemod championship


Also think about using a PSone screen. It is not an original thing to do but it still is something that looks very cool. The screen itself is nothing special anymore, but the way I want to use it will be :naughty: :naughty:


I will use alumium profiles (25mm x 25mm.) to build a skeleton for the case.


and these profiles will be attached to each other with this sort of things ( don't know what the english name is )


The aluminium skeleton/ frame will look something like this


The aluminium has arrived today, so that's why I start this worklog today. I ordered the aluminium one month ago, so I had more then enough time to work the plans out. Started thinking and sketching three months ago.


My trip to Australia last summer gave me some inspiration. In Sydney I saw the Opera House and I think everyone knows what it looks like. This is what the outtakes on top of the case will look like.


It's a sideview and a topview. What is my goal for this mod?
First of all I want to spend much time on all the details. I'm going to watercool the videocard(s) and the CPU. The radiator will be mounted inside the case, but the airflow will be seperated from the airflow within the case. The motherboard and videocard will be in a seperated compartment from the powersupply and the harddisks. The cooling will be very important in this mod, more important than silence. I think I will not use the small bore stuff from Aquacomputer this time. Everything will be controlled with an Aquacomputer Aquaero


The colors I will use are black ( lots of it) white, grey and a touch of orange.

Started with the frame. First I had to saw the aluminium profiles to the needed sizes. Just like in the previous mod I will use a lot of handtools.


The first step is to saw the profiles for the horizontal layers of the frame and connect the pieces with these parts. These things can be pushed into the aluminium profiles. Very easy and it looks clean, no parts or screws sticking out.



At the bottom of the photograph from the frame you can see four sketches, these are the horizontal layers I will need. The first three layers are ready now and can be seen in the picture above.

02-28-2007, 02:28 PM
and the finished frame



I make sketches by hand. This is a sketch from the powerbutton I want to create for this case.


The light grey is brushed aluminium ( left overs from the Lian Li mod ) The orange/brown is wood. The powerbutton will light up and the two bumps to the right are the power leds. The same shapes and materials will come back in the other devices like the M-PLAY 2002, the Aquaero and the DVD recorder.

Coolermaster helped me out with a mobotray from a damaged case. Thanks Ron from Coolermaster (http://www.coolermaster.com/index.php)http://franklin.noph33r.com/evolutionary/cmlogo.gif
Here it is


some damage, but nothing serious that can't be fixed. It's a removable tray and I will remove some parts anyway. This tray saves me quite some time.


In the picture below you can see the slight damage, but I will remove this part.



This original mesh will be cut out.


It needs some cleaning up


I'm not finished filing the edges yet, but this is the tray with everything that's not needed removed.


With a small modification the tray fits perfectly in my home made aluminium frame.

03-01-2007, 04:36 PM
@intergalacticman : What do you want to know about the front? Just send me a pm for any questions and no the mod is not for sale. It is the computer I use at home and it was my first casemod, so I'm very attached to it.

I'm back from my holidays downunder and I think this was a good reason to stop working on a casemod for a while.



Today I received some parts from www.freezinghardware.nl , a sponsor of my projekt


A Laing EcoCirc D4basic-30/830NX pump.


and two Black Ice GT Stealth 240 radiators


Right now I'm working on the final plans for the harddisk container. I will be using these things.


Hope to start working on the box this weekend.

I started working on the acrylic with my new machine, it was a cheap thing but it is good enough for what I will need to do with it. I made some holes in the acrylic for the radiators.


Because the acrylic isn't wide enough to cover the whole case I had to use two pieces. Here you can see one piece for the first radiator.


and the two pieces. On the left side it is hard to see, because I already removed the tape from the acrylic. You can also see I started closing the frame at the back of the case.


On the left side you can see where the first radiator will be mounted. The other one will be placed on the right side.


03-04-2007, 12:50 PM
Today I started working on the box for the harddisks. I will use an old watercoolingblock for the harddisks and also a normal fan.


First I needed to create piece of acrylic to mount the fan. I want it to fit in the front. I think it fits great.


Just taped the box together to see if everything fits.


I placed the dempers beside the box to get an idea what it will look like.

03-06-2007, 03:51 PM
The first aluminium 'ring' that will be placed over the box is ready. I'll need 4 of these aluminium parts to mount the shocks. The shocks will be mounted between two of these rings.


the front view.


and from a slight angle


It took me about 4 hours to produce this ring, so that means I have about 12 hours of work for the other 3 rings.

I'm very happy with all my sponsors. Building AlumaxX really paid off. I wouldn't be able to start a new project this soon after AlumaxX without these sponsors. They give me all the artistic freedom I could wish.

03-09-2007, 06:55 PM
Just a small update. The second aluminium ring is ready. I expect to finish the last two rings this weekend so I can start working on the details of the box. The shocks will be mounted between two aluminium rings, that's what the bumbs on the side of the rings are for.


03-10-2007, 01:02 PM

All the rings are ready, I only will have to clean them, sand the edges and driil the holes to mount the schocks. The shocks will be mounted like this.


It is time to add some details to the box.

03-12-2007, 03:25 PM
Don't know anything about rc cars, just bought these in a webshop in the Netherlands.

Today I was feeling like years ago. Playing with clay makes you feel young again. I made the shape for the air outlets that come on top of the case. These ones. Side view and top view ( it's in Dutch )


Used some wood for the hight, length and shape. It's about 6 cm. in hight.


After drying I will have to sand it with some very fine sandingpaper and then bake it in a normal oven at 130 degrees Celcius.



Not finished yet after baking it, because this is a positve and I will need to make a negative from this shape. The negative a will use to shape the glass fibre.

03-17-2007, 11:29 AM
I ordered all the materials I need to make the fibre glass parts. It took me a bit longer as expected, but I needed to know know some technical stuff about working with fibreglass before I could order it. Monday they will send all the stuff to me, so I expect it to be here on tuesday or maybe a day later. I almost done with the model for the fibreglass part. I will make a fibreglass shape from this clay model and that part I will use to construct 4 airoutlets. The clay is baked now and it came out well. Only will have to sand it a bit.


Just to give you an idea of what I mean, the clay model on top of the case. The fibreglass is hardened after 25 minutes, so I think I can finish them next weekend.

I did a lot of work on the harddisk box, but I dont want to show it yet. All the parts will be glued and I can't do that before I know it all will fit. It's a bit hard to take a picture of all the things withot it being mounted. So you all will have to wait some time for those pictures.

Started working on something els, the powerbutton. This was the idea.


and I used some leftover aluminium from the Lian Li mod.


I just can't wait to begin working with the fibreglass.

03-24-2007, 11:30 AM
The model for the airducts on top of the case are almost finished, After sanding it with very fine sandingpaper I had to put some resin over it.


This is what the model looks like after two layers of resin. Some spots may look like they are not smooth, but that's because some spots are a bit grey and most of the model is white.


Now I will have two wait for it to dry, takes 24 hours. Tomorrow I can use the moldingwax.


I'm cutting the fibreglass mat to the right size, so I can start working with it tomorrow. The fibreglass model will not be the part I will need, but only the nagative model that I will use to create four fibreglass airducts.


I also need a model for the fibreglass that will cover the top of the case, I use MDF for it.


The MDF model is treated with the same resin. It will need another two layers before I can apply the wax.


Now I'll have to wait 24 hours for it all to dry. In the meantime I started working on some plexi tubing that I will use for the airducts from the radiators to the top of the case. First I need to cut it down in size.


After thhis it will have to be cut in half.


Now I have four of these parts, only two in this photograph, but I've got four of those thing now.


They will be mounted here.


The plexi will not be visible in the endresult and the sides will be closed as well.

03-25-2007, 10:53 AM
It's a very small update, but I'm so happy with the result. It's a nasty stuff to work with but the result is very good.


Later today I'll remove the polyester model from the clay model and cut down the edges.

Thanks everyone for all the comments and the rep points.

03-25-2007, 12:08 PM
The polyester is removed from the clay and it looks very good. I didn't know what I could expect from this material but I'm very satisfied with the result.



So this fibreglass part I will use as a model for the 4 parts I will use as airoutlets. The inside of this model to be precise is the side I will use as the model. Just add some special black paint to the resin to get a black part.

03-27-2007, 05:04 PM
I almost finished the 4 models for the airducts that will be placed on top of the case. These models will be sanded and painted later after they have been attched to the polyester top that wil cover the upper part of my case. I wanted to show where these parts will be mounted.



Also worked on something for my dustfilters. It's always difficult to get those things out and that's why I want to create something that can easily be removed. I will use three layers, two will be glued together and the third is just to keek the filter in place.



I will mount a profile underneath my case where this thing will slide in. Far from finished, will have to file it, corners wil be rounded and it will have to sanded.

03-31-2007, 11:11 AM
Started working on the fibreglass that will cover the top of the frame ( the top and about 17 cm. of the sides )

It's a dirty stuff to work with. You've got to work fast because it gets more and more sticky after some time.
The model that will be covered with the fibreglass is finished. Around the model I mounted a wooden frame. When the fibreglass is hardened I can push the model of. If this doesn't work I can always remove the MDF from the inside.


Before I can begin I have to cut the glass mats into the right size.


Right now there's are four layers of glass.


Tomorrow I can put on the last two layers. After this is finished it will have to harden. When it is dry I will cut out some areas for the airducts that I already have made. These ducts will be mounted with some fibreglass to the big model and with some special bondo for fibreglass it will be smoothened so you can't see that it were seperate parts.

The part I am making now will be placed over over the frame, here.


Afterwards I need to cut out some areas for the ducts.

04-01-2007, 10:09 AM
The fibreglass hood came of the MDF model without any problem and the inside is perfectly smooth.



I testfitted the hood over the aluminium frame and it fits. Could not wish for more. No image of the hood over the frame, the battery of my camera will have to be recharged first :( The outside has to be sanded. After that I will cut out some areas for the airducts and some other things.

04-01-2007, 11:37 AM
Thanks for your comment and the rep :banana:

Here is the image from the hood over the frame. It needs lots of work, sanding, need to cut out some areas for the airducts and for some other things. When this all is finished it will be painted. The fibreglass at the bottom sticks out, but that will be removed so no problem at all.


This week I will be working on two other pieces of fibre glass that wil be mounted in this big hood. An image will make it more clear I think. The areas that are marked in black will be removed from the fibreglass.


The part in the left corner will be made this week and will also be fibreglass.

In the end it will look something like this.


In the openings I will place some acrylic, just like in the sketch some pages ago.

04-05-2007, 03:00 PM
I was inspired by a building in Sydney Australia last year :lick:

The only place I can cut the polyester is outside in the garden because cutting or filing it creates an enormous dustcloud. I have to wear a mask and after work I just have to take a shower to remove all the white dust.
First mark the area that I'll have to cut away with my Dremel. The openings for the fibreglass airduct will be cut later on, after finishing these parts.


I didn't know if it was hard to cut the fibreglass so I took some distance from the marking. In fact it was easy to cut, but to be on the safe side I don't cut on the marking.


This is the model for the fibreglass part that I will create this weekend.


Keep the model in place, ofcourse this will also be fibreglass, but just to see what it will look like.


I had to draw an ellips. Need one half of this ellips to mark the lower opening for the airducts.



04-08-2007, 08:54 AM
It's nice to be on the frontpage, thanks guys :banana: :banana: :banana:

Ready to make two more fibreglass parts. I need two of these parts for the right side and the left side of the case.


The parts came of pretty well. Only need to cut of some material at the edges. I leave some material at these edges for mounting it to the big fibreglass part I made earlier.



With an ordinary Dremel I cut away all the stuff that isn't needed. Quite a dusty job. I wear a mask and work outside as you can so.


Later on I will draw the ellipses on the parts and cut them out.

04-11-2007, 04:49 PM
I bought a cheapass electrical sanding machine, because I have to smoothen te surface from the lit. By hand it would take me ages. I'm glad I bought it, because it saves me lots of time.


The top of the case is almost ready, the sides will be done next days. Ofcourse I wear a mask while working on it. I almost look like a snowman after sanding :brrr:


When all the sides have been sanded I will use a special kind of bondo to fill up every little hole and wetsand it afterwards. To be able to cut of the small airducts straight my dad made something for me. Now I can saw it and all the airducts will be the same size.


Worked great. Now I can mark the lit. This has to be cut of for the airducts.


The holes look a bit big, but when the airducts are placed it already looks a bit better.


and that's not all, I will also create some sort of fingergard from acrylic. Looks fantastic, but you will have to wait for that.

04-16-2007, 04:44 PM
I cut some holes in the lit for the airducts with my fake Dremel.



I numbered the holes and the airducts, it's all handwork so there all the ducts are slightly different and fit only perfectly in the hole with the same number.

After three days of bondoing and sanding the lit is almost smooth. I will need to wetsand the lit one more time.


I want to glue the airducts to the lit and want to use some UHU 2 components glue for this job. On the UHU website it says

Metals, glass, porcelain, ceramic, wood, marble, stone, concrete, Duroplast®, glass fibre reinforced synthetics, rigid PVC, rubber, rigid foam plastics such as Styropor®. Not suitable for sticking large areas of glass.

So I think it will work, but to be sure I will try it on some leftovers first

04-19-2007, 03:51 PM
Thanks :up:

After 5 days of using bondo and (wet)sanding, the lid is perfectly smooth and ready for the next step.
This weekend I can glue the vents to the lid. The glue is perfect for this job. But first I'll need to cut some acrylic rings. Thes acrylic parts have to fit perfectly into the inside of the vents. Every vent is slightly different so I need a ring thet fits every vent and number them so I will know what ring is for what vent. This is a picture from the airduct, head on. You can see that it looks like a circle from this angle. I used some sticky tape to keep things in place. I only cut the outside of the ring. Before I'll cut out the inner side I need to sand the outside. The ring will be 6 mm. wide so it will be fragile.


I made 1 paper "arch", there will be made many more for each vent ofcourse, to visualize what I want to do. It will be a lot of work, need 52 acrylic parts for the four vents :eyebrow:


04-21-2007, 10:50 AM
Yesterday I glued the first two vents to the lid. Some weigt on it to keep it in place.


Today the last two vents.


After drying the inside looks like this.


Turning the lid over to look at the result.


I think it looks good.


Now I can glue the sides to the lid and then it will be time to use some bondo again for the finishing touch.

05-01-2007, 06:23 PM
I'm a slow modder, I always take my time. I had some problems with the polyester part that I wanted to use to fill up the holes in the side of the lid, this part I mean.


It just wasn't straight enough. That's why I changed plans and made a new polyester part. I used some glass to make a perfect flat polyester sheet. I will cut this sheet in pieces to fill up the side of the lid. It works perfect, but it takes time. After glueing a part I'll have to wait 24 hours for the glue to harden. To make sure the lid keeps absolutely straight I used some wood.


I cut up the old fibre glass part and used parts of it to attach the sheet to the lid.


After this I turned the lid upside down and glued the sheet in.


This is what it looks like now.


Later on I will have to cut out the openings again, but first I want to close both ends, those triangles. But it takes at least 5 days to glue everything in place. In the meantime I'm searching for all the information I can find about airbrushing.

05-04-2007, 06:27 PM
And the sides are being glued in there. Used some wooden plant sticks to keep the triangles in place.


Tomorrow the glue will be hardened and I will glue in some reinforcements in the inside of the lid to be on the safe side. Then I will have to cut out those half ovals again.

05-06-2007, 08:49 AM
The lid is almost finished, for as far as I want to go for now that is. The final touch, bondoing, sanding and painting it, will be done at the and of this project. I can only damage the lid while still working on all the other stuff. The oval holes are back in the side again and Im ready to start working on the "fingerguards". The ring for the inside of the airduct and the oval ring have been cut now to the right size.


The upper ring is slightly smaller then the lower one, this is because it will be mounted inside the airduct. The lower oval ring will be as wide as the outside of the airduct.


Both ends of the lower rings will have to be filed under an angle of 45 degrees. Wehn you take a look at the opening of the airducts from the side it looks like a circle.


05-12-2007, 08:13 AM
The acrylic rings are glued together, I only will have to file it a bit.


The lower ring is a bit wider than the upper one, that because the upper ring will be mounted inside the duct and the thickness of the fibre glass will add up to the thickness of the ring.


I glued the first acrylic to the rings, many more will follow.



05-13-2007, 04:11 PM
The "fingerguards" are starting to shape up quite well. It's not really a fingerguard because there is not a fan just behind it. The part needs a lot of filing, but that will be no problem because it turns out to be much stronger than I expected.


Just to get an idea what it will look like when it is in place.


The fibre glass lid will be sprayed black so you won't see much in that vent when the case is finished.


From above. It looks like the acrylic parts are not straight, but don't worry it's perfectly straight.


Will have to add two pieces on the right side and three on the left before the first fingerguard is finished.

05-14-2007, 05:18 PM
Almost there....


I started filing all the pieces as you can see. The outer piece on the right is the best place to look what I mean. I will have to add one small piece of acrylic on the sides and then it needs more filing and sanding before I can use a small torch to make it shiny again. It already took me four days to get this far and I will have to do this work another three times

05-17-2007, 02:05 PM
The first fingerguard is finished for now. I will clean it up later. I starting to doubt wether I should add that reinforcement. I will create one and if it doesn't look better I will forget it. The construction doesn't need it. I expected the contruction to be much more fragile before I started on the fingerguard.


Now you can see why I made the aluminium construction the way I did, with that strange looking top. That's the place, lefttop and righttop where the vents are now.



I will start on the other three guards later on. Want to do some other things now. I hope the weather will get better so I can start on the fibreglass sides for the case. I'm also searching for all the information I can find about pinstriping and airbrushing.

05-19-2007, 02:25 PM
After all the work on the fingerguard I wanted to work on other things for a while. A little less fragile parts. I had to close the gap from the radiator to the top of the lid. This because the air must be forced to go from the radiator to the vents on the lid. I used a piece of acrylic and cut out a small piece for the aluminium frame.


Here the part is in place. You can see it on the right of the picture. Another piece will be mounted on the left as well.


The piece I cut out to fit around the aluminium tubing.


And a photograph with the radiator in place.


Right now you can still see through the transparant acrylic, but that will have to change.

05-22-2007, 05:40 PM
Hello, - you asked about airbrushing...

I just started with a Testors MightyMini that I got on the cheap at a second-hand store. So here's the little advice that I'd give, based on my humble experience.

-Don't waste money on a little airbrush compressor. Get a bigger one from a hardware store, as well as a moisture trap. You can also use it for blowing dust off of parts, and out of computers. Some of them come packaged with an air nailer/stapler. (I'm pondering getting a Sears Craftsman compressor myself.)

-I do like the simplicity of the Testors airbrush tips. They come apart with only a couple parts, and clean easily, making color changes a bit faster. - with an internal mix badger you practically have to take apart the brush for cleaning, or use a cleaning station to run the paint out of it.

-dual action sounds cool to me, but they cost more, and probably take more time to master (Paul-any comments?) - the single actions work just as well.

with my cheap single action, external mix brush, i've done these re-paintings of plastic toy guns:
I still have yet to figure out how to do flames.

Thanks for the advise. I found a webshop in the Netherlands and they have all the airbrush tools I will need and they are very helpful :banana: I'm very serious about wanting to learn to airbrush, so I want to invest money in good materials. The webshop I found is http://www.airbrush-services-almere.nl/

07-01-2007, 01:38 PM
After a long time without any updates, a small update again. I've been very busy with "real life" stuff and had very little time to work on the case. I also had some problems getting the materials I needed, still have b.t.w.
The car airintakes I wanted to use still are not delivered and I'm not going to wait for those anymore. I will make them myself from fibreglass ofcourse.

I use some MDF to create a mold for the fibreglass. This is a drawing frm the mold. I will glue three layers of MDF together. On the left you can see what material I will have to file of to get the shape I want, on the right side.


When this is done I will saw the mold under an angle like this.


So first saw some MDF.


Drill a hole in the smallest one.


Now I can saw a bigger hole in this layer.


Time to glue these parts together.


With a file I will remove the material to get a rounded shape.


I made a paper mold with the rounded shape. When I hold it against the side of the MDF I can spot the places I have to file more to get the right shape.


and after sanding the mold.


07-07-2007, 09:42 AM
Thanks guys, please have a look at my fiber glass tutorial in the Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials section on this forum. Soon I will improve the tutorila with more and better pictures and I will add a tutorial on making molds.

It's time to finish the fibre glass mold. The most difficult part right now to saw the mold under an angle of 20 degrees. For this I made another mold. The base of the sawingmold has to be 90 degrees.


Now add the sides of the sawingmold.


The glue will be dry in a couple of hours. Before I start sawing I will add some scres in the mold. So I will put in the MDF fiber glass mold and secure it there. A sawblade will be guided by the opening in the sides of the sawing mold.


I should and up with a nice 20 degrees angle like in this sketch


The last job will be glueing the fiber glass mold onto a piece of MDF and finish the surfae with polyurethane resin. I will use this mold a least four times, maybe even 6 times. I will have to see what looks better, 4 or 6 airintakes.

07-07-2007, 12:38 PM
Ok the thing is ready for sawing.


Here we go.



The last bit has to be done outside the sawing mold.


Almost ready.



07-08-2007, 04:37 PM
Thanks guys. The mold was finished today.


so I tried making the first polyester airintake. Tried.....:( The result was not good enough. Had some problems with the fiber glass and the shape of the mold. I already have the solution, but I need to paint this mdf part three times with the polyurethane before I can have another try. The solution is a mdf disk that I can put in the hole and that will keep the fiber glass in place.

Just to give you guys an impression off what it will look like I Photoshopped a picture off the mold.


So you will see these intakes on both sides off the case ( left and right side )
I hope I can post a picture of a finished polyester airintake this week.

07-10-2007, 06:23 PM
After the small problem I'm ready to give it another try.


Time to put on the latex gloves again and mix the resin. I used more layers of fiber glass this time, because it has to be much stronger this time and the outside isn't important, because this polyester part will only be the mold that I will use to make the final product. I need a negative.


It's important that the polyester part is a perfect negative of the MDF mold. So I used a MDF disk to push the fiber glass in the corners and keep it there untill the resin is cured.


Just before the resin had cured I pulled out the disk with the hook. I had some problems this time getting the polyester off from the MDF mold. Drilled a hole in the middle to let the air in, but that wasn't enough to do the job. My old man had a great idea, put the mold with the polyester in the freezer and yes it worked :banana: The polyester came of without any problem.


This is the final mold I need. This polyester mold I will use to create the four intakes.

07-15-2007, 03:12 PM
I had to adjust my plans slightly. It was to difficult to use the negative as a mold, so I will use the mdf mod. This means I will have to spend more time to give the surface a smooth finish with polyester bondo and sanding. No big problem.

I started with drawing a shape on paper. This is the shape I need to cut from the fiber glass. Put the paper on top of the fiber glass and mark it.



Cut it out three times, because I need three layers.


and ready for use.


The mdf mold is waxed and ready to be used again. First apply some resin on the mold. When the mold is waxed in the right way, the resin seems to try pulling together and form some kind of drops. This is good, because it means the polyester will come off easier later on.


Put the first layer over the mold.


Applied the resin in the middle.


With the tip of the bruh I tapped the resin onto the fiber glass. Tap, because you want the remove any aitbubbles underneath the fiber glass.


To prevent the fiber glass coming loose again, when tapping the outside of the mold I used some kind of plug. Also made from mdf and also treated with the molding wax.
The plug is slightly smaller then the hole, this because the lauyers of fiber glass will need some space ofcourse.


Working from the edge on top of the mold, down to the bottom of the mold.


It's easy to see when all the fiber glass is soaked with resin.


Time to take out the plug and repeat the whole processa another two times.
I will have to sand the intakes and apply one more layer of surface tissue. This because it will be easier to smoothen the surface. Right now the intakes look like this, a bit rough but that will change in a couple of days.


I will remove the orange area. Some sort of fingerguard will be placed in this opening later on.


07-16-2007, 01:01 PM
After sanding the polyester intake it already looks a lot better. I sanded the part with sandingpaper grid 400 and I will have to sand it further with sandingpaper up to 1200. Also started making a paper model from the guard that will be mounted inside the opening of this intake.


It will be made from white frosted acrylic and it will be mounted somewhat deeper then the paper model.

07-17-2007, 03:43 PM
Thanks guys and thanks for all the +rep

It's summer in the Netherlands but last few weeks I,ve only seen rain. But not the last days :clap: I can work outside again, much easier working on the sidepanel outside. No molds this time just some glass. Put on some moldingwax and clean it with a cloth. Ready for some polyester action. Put some resin on the glass first


Put on the first layer and use a roller to smoothen it.


The fiber glass on this picture is a special fabric that is for the surface. The endresult will be very smooth. This was the first layer. After this I added 5 more layers of the normal fiber glass.


The result was just as smooth as I wanted it to be. Does not need much work to finish the surface later on for a paintjob. Made two big holes with my Dremel for the air intakes.


And with the intakes in place.


More close ups.




The intakes and the sidepanel wil be glued together and I will use some bondo between the panel and the intakes.

07-22-2007, 06:10 PM
Thanks for all those rep points.

Everything is going smoothly at the moment. I can't show you much new stuff, but that doesn't mean I did not do much. I finished the second and third "fingerguard" for the outtakes for instance. A lot of work but you know what it looks like.


I also did some work on the acrylic that will lead the air from the radiator to the outtakes on top of the case.


The acrylic ( with the tape still on ) had to be cut at the top so the lid will fit over.


There is still some tape on the clear acrylic, but that will be removed ofcourse. When removed it will be possible to see through the airduct into the top of the case.


That's not what I want, because I want to use that space to hide cables and some other stuff. So in order to make it almost impossible to look into the case and see the cables I will cover the duct with some black mesh.


Bending the mesh first to fit the tube.


Looks good. It's almost ready to be cut in the same shape as the acrylic.


Next thing I can show you is my design of the logo.


The logo will not be flat but 3-dimensional and I think I will also add some lighting from behind.

07-25-2007, 04:03 PM
Waiting for some materials from AC Ryan, so I had some time for brainstorming on the logo. I want a simple logo, so I'm not going to use the whole word Evolutionary, just the first three letters E, V and the O. An other thing I wanted to do is making it different from the usual logos. I took some mdf, acrylic and aluminium ( leftover from the Lian Li case from my finished casemod ) and started cutting out the letters.
The E and the V from mdf and acrylic, the O from aluminium.


The acrylic on top of the mdf.


The mdf from the E had to be carved, so it will fit over the V.


Not finished yet, the mdf will be painted and the acrylic will be sanded, but this is what it will look like.


When finished, it will be mounted on a black surface and some leds will bring some light from behind.


07-28-2007, 10:15 AM
A while ago, I posted a sketch from the powerbutton with the activity leds. Today I started working on this thing. It will look a lot like the drawing but it will not be exactly the same.


The aluminium, a piece left from a Lian Li casemod, was already finished. I will only need to cut a hole in the big circle for the button to fit in later on. The frosted white acrylic will have to fit in the button. I wnat to light the thing up from behind, that's why I used the frosted acrylic.


It's not that easy to get the acrylic fit into the button. But now it's almost finished. The last bit I will do by sanding it.


07-29-2007, 05:31 PM
Thanks. It's still not ready but it's starting to shape up now. This picture is after the first paintjob, it will get far more shiny after two more layers


Need to sand and paint it two more times. After that I will cut out the opening in the aluminium for the button and start working on the activity leds and the holders they will be mounted in.

08-14-2007, 05:47 PM
I bought a 2.1 Philips speakersystem.


The satellites will be integrated in the case and the subwoofer will get the same look as the case. Before I can mount the satelittes I will have to cut of the feet and cover up the steel fronts with something more suitable for my black case.


mark the acrylic before cutting it.


Cut out the circles


They almost fit, still need a bit of sanding.


Because of a thunderstorm I had to quit working on the polyester sidepanels. I was bored and used some tape to put some parts onto the frame.
It far from finished, but just to give you guys an idea of what it will look like.


Please keep in mind that the case will be painted and that I will add so many details, like windows and decoration.
I glued in the airducts in the left side panel. Used some heavy materials to press the polyester sheet down.


Used some bondo to fill up the small gap between the airducts and the sidepanel.


The airducts themself also need some bondo and I will have to sand them several times.


I also need another mold, a mold for yet another airduct. It will look like in this sketch.


The fan will be mounted on the right side and I already made the acrylic to hold the fans. These are two AC Ryan 90mm. fans.


The duct will be placed over here (one on the left side and one on the right side of the case)


and the mold is almost finished. Only need to paint, sand, paint, sand and paint it before I can use it.


08-18-2007, 04:47 AM
First duct is ready. It will be painted black of course.


This is what will be visible in the endresult. The bottom of the case will be covered with some aluminium later on. The black aluminium plate is still covered with a layer of plastic, I only removed a piece around the fan.


Underneath the fan you can see an opening, won't be visible in the finished case. This opening is for the dustfilter that will come underneath the intake. It needs to be removable to clean the filter, that's why I cut that opening, so it can slide underneath the intake and back when it needs to be cleaned.



08-19-2007, 03:24 PM
AC Ryan send me a lot of new materials for this casebuild, but not only the acrylic and aluminium comes in handy, but also the cardboard that protects the materials. I made a model from the duct that will guide the air from the intakes on the sidepanel to the radiator.


And this is what it will look like withe the black aluminium panel, that will divede the front of the case from the two compartments in the back, in place


From the side, without the sidepanel on, it will look like this.


With this cardboard model it's easy to see if you missed something and if the thing will fit in there and it does, so it's time to make the same thing from acrylic.

08-21-2007, 05:59 PM
I think you mean the scroll saw I used to make the circles in the black acrylic for the speakers. It's a cheap electrical scroll saw, bough the thing with the money I had won with my previous casemod in the Dutch championship casemodding. It saves me so much time using this electrical saw instead of the manual scroll saw. Ferm is the brand, cheap stuff, but good enough for normal use.

08-25-2007, 07:35 AM
I finished the acrylic ducts that will guide the air from the intakes on the sidepannels to the radiator.



and the ducts placed in the frame


I will mount two parts of these ducts onto the sidepanels.



The left duct from the inside of the case and with the sidepanel on.


Front picture from the left side.


Also did some work on the mobo tray and the backside of the case. This part i mean.


Coolermaster sended me a damaged mobotray for FREE. It only needs some small modifications. The back needs to be covered to match my black case.


The backside of my case is starting to look much better.


I think this will look great.


09-01-2007, 06:35 AM
Thanks guys, yes it is starting to shape up quite well. That's why I started working on the frontpanel. Just like I did with the powerbutton I will use mdf and aluminium. I used some brushed aluminium from AC Ryan.


There is still some tape on the aluminium, because I have to file it a bit more. The DVD player, Aquaero and the front panel from the soundcard will be placed in the middle and that's also the spot where I will use the mdf.


09-12-2007, 05:43 PM
Did not have much time to work on the case last weeks, but this week I can show you a small update. I had to solve the problem with the airducts in the top of the case. Needed to use acrylic because the ducts will to guide the air to the outakes on top of the case, but the acrylic is transparant, so when you have a close look through the openings of the outtakes, you would be able to see through. So there where the MeshX has to come in.



Also had to fabricate some aluminium pieces to mount the harddiskbox.


It's not finished yet, need to drill a hole to attach the springs to the mountingpoints. I'm working hard to close all the sides of the case. Hope I can show you a closed case in a few weeks.

09-15-2007, 03:28 PM
I was thinking about frosting the acrylic and adding some light, but I first want to look what it will look like without that, because it will barely be visible ofcourse.

The PSU will be mounted with the normal screws at the back but it will need some additional support. A sheet of 2mm AC Ryan aluminium is all I need. First draw the part.


Saw it with my scroll saw.


Time to see if the part fits.


Looks ok.


The aluminium parts for the PSU also look good in combination with the harddiskbox.


The reason that I mount the PSU on its side is that I want to show the best side of the PSU and also make the cables visible. Sometimes cables even look good and I think that these will look good.


09-16-2007, 12:43 PM
Wow thats some nice stuff. I like the way this is coming together. Is this area with the PSU and HD box going to be open or covered with plexi or something?

All the "walls" will be covered with black aluminium.

Started making openings in the front for the Aquaero and the I/O box from the X-Fi Platninum soundcard. Need to decide what optical drive I want to use soon.


I also started working on the drivebay. It will be build from scratch and I will use aluminium profiles in combination with acrylic. It will be a pretty complicated construction, because I can't use the bottom of the case to support it. This because it's not strong enough and I don't have room to strenghten it, because the two ducts are in that place. Also need to keep room for a cable from the soundcard. No problem, I solve the problem with an aluminium construction that doesn't even touch the bottom plate.

First make a cut into a profile.


Remove parts that are not needed.


Looks like this.


Bend the end, by hand.


It's a beginning. Run out of aluminium profiles. Will have to buy some more tomorrow


09-29-2007, 12:17 PM
@ XcOM : of course that's ok. Just send a pm.

Made the last three polyester parts I need for this this.


After about 40 minutes the part can be removed from the mold.


Cut a bit of the material on te sides.


Need to cut some openings in the top of the lid for these vents.


and an overview of all the openings for these vents. There is no hardware in the top of the case and the radiator is shielded with some acrylic, but there will always some heat underneath the polyester lid, so that's why I place these vents. One vent in the front of the case, left and right from this vent I will cut openings for the two waterreservoirs, and two at the back.


Glued the parts into the lid.


the vent from the other side, that will be visible.


When the glue has hardened I will use a file and some polyester bondo to give the opening a fine finish.

I'm also working on something that I'm not sure of wheteher I will use it.


Everything that is black will have to be cut away.


the thing on the harddiskbox


The last thing I want to show is the handles I started working on.



The pictures hosted on the AC Ryan server are down at the moment. Problem will be fixed soon I hope.

10-10-2007, 02:59 PM
Working on several parts at the moment. No pics yet, I want to wait a while and post the pics when these parts are mounted, because it's difficult to explain what all these parts are for.
The panels that will cover all the sides of the case could have been finished by now, but no they still aren't. The problem is the lack of daylight. When coming back from work it already is dark and I can only cut the panels outside because of all the dust. So I can only work on the panels in the weekends. But I have two photos from last week.



Man I just can wait to get this case painted black.

10-17-2007, 04:34 PM
Yes it's a sticky stuff and you have to be quick, before you know it the resin starts hardening and can't be applied anymore.

I don't want to hide all the cables like I did in my previous case, but the cables will need to be ordered. That's why I made some cableholders. I used two layers of white aluminium from AC Ryan with some mdf in between. Strange I didn't see anyone use the white aluminium from AC ryan yet. It looks very nice in combination with the black panels.


I won't use any bolts or glue to mount the holders. I will just slide them in.


Need these small openings for mounting the cableholders. Just slide it in there.


and the result


The black aluminium sheet will divede the left and right compartment of the case.


In the next picture you can see what the distance is between the hddbox and the cableholders.



I'm also working on the side panels. Some aluminium profiles will give it some strenght and prevent it from bending.


10-29-2007, 06:50 PM
Not many people know that AC Ryan sells white aluminium, so that's why they were so happy I asked those white sheets for my casebuild.

I mounted the aluminium U-profile to the sidepanels.


The profiles on the sidepanels fit inside the aluminium frame from the case. I'm happy with the result, it fits very well.


On both the left and rightside panel I will mount a piece of the airduct.


When the panels are in place the duct on the sidepanel touches the duct in the case. I will modify the duct inside the case a bit more to make sure there will almost leak no air.


I'm also working on the two reservoirs I'll use for the watercoolingVerder ben ik de reservoirs aan het maken voor de waterkoeling. Need several circles og acrylic. The small ones will have to fit inside the tube.


I used a file and some sandingpaper to get the small circles to fit into the acrylic tube. Now I'll need to glue the small and big pieces together.



Need to file and sand the big circle till it has the same diameter as the tube.


With the parts in place it's easy to mark acrylic that needs to be filed and sanded away. This one is almost ready.


11-03-2007, 07:15 PM
I glued some polyester parts, for mounting the duct to the sidepanel, to the sidepanel.


Drilled some holes in those pieces to be able to use small bolts.



All the parts I need to make the shocks, from the harddisk box, function are in now, so I started mounting all the parts to the case. The parts that came in yesterday I will show you in another update. It's something to prevent the harddisk box from flipping over to one side.


Making some thread for the bolts.


Ready to mount the part.


and finished.


The drivebay is also almost finished. It looks a bit funny, because top top is very small. That's because that's the place for the Aquaero and a VFD and those aren't as big (deep) as a DVD drive.



11-21-2007, 07:03 PM
Time to work on some parts inside the case. The pump will be placed near to the motherboard. The area around the pump is covered with an black aluminium sheet from AC Ryan.


The aluminium cover around the pump also comes in handy when I have to hide some cables.


The pump itself will be covered by its own housing. I used some acrylic piping and cut it in half. This is just the base of the pumphousing, now I can add some more housing parts by glueing it onto this pipe.


I can finish the construction of the hddbox now, this because of some great help from a company nearby in Eindhoven
called Nebo http://www.nebobv.nl/


Now it fits into the pipe.


I drilled two big holes in the hdd box.


These holes are there for the acrylic pipe that will go through there. I glued some black acrylic around the pipe. This is needed to attach it to the hdd box with some bolts.
Couldn't glue it because I will need some space to adjust the construction when needed.


A quick look underneath the hdd box.


The two pieces of acrylic that fit into the pipes underneath the hdd box will be mounted on the bottom of the case. To prevent any movement I will use some aluminium profiles underneath the bottom of the case, but this will not be visible. This construction will prevent the box hanging in the rc shocks from flipping to one side.


12-01-2007, 04:51 PM
Not a very high quality movie, but I didn't want to wait showing the shocks in action. Haven't cleaned the harddiskbox yet and this just is a first test.


It works! It runs very smoothly. The sound you hear is from the acrylic pipes in the acrylic tubes. I will adjust the shocks when the harddisks are installed, there is no weight in the box now.

12-09-2007, 03:31 PM
Jon thanks for your help with the hosting space for my pictures!

Have been working on, what must be one of the last polyester parts, dust filter holders.


Getting the part of the mold.


Marked the part so I know where to cut it.



Smoothened the edges with some sandingpaper.


Made an opening in the filter holder.


Ready to mount it on the aluminium. Used some bolts to do this.


And from another angle.


The acrylic part that will hold the filtermaterial can slide in now.


Made two of these parts, one for the left side and one for the right side of the case. These holders will be mounted underneath the case, so you can't see them.

12-25-2007, 03:20 PM
The case is almost ready for the paintjob, but that will have to wait till after my 6 week vacation. The ducts will have to be sealed with a rubber strip to prevent air escaping to the wrong compartments.


The holes in the bottom of the case, drilled for the dustfilter, will also be used to keep the duct in place. Don't have bolts that are long enough so I can't finish it right now. I want to drill some holes in the aluminium profile and when I tighten these bolts the profile will pull the duct onto the rubber strips.


Started working on some details. Because I don't like the side of a normal fan I decided to make some sort of hosing for the fan that will be placed in the back of the case. I started with a small strip of acrylic. This acrylic needs to be bend. Used some mdf and some copper pipes to bend the piece.


The piece of acrylic just needs to be shortened a bit and then it can be glued.


Time to glue the frosted acrylic lid onto the black acrylic.


Will have to wait till the glue has hardened, before I can start cuttin a hole in the frosted acrylic for the fan.


The combination of black and white will be used quite often in this case.

12-26-2007, 11:44 AM
After a few hours of filing the fan with black acrylic ring around it, fits in the fanbox.



I think this wil be one of my last updates before my 6 week vacation. Hope to get some information from a company that is specialized in painting polyester before I leave the Netherlands for a warmer place, because the case is almost ready for a paintjob.

02-18-2008, 09:50 AM
Yep back home again. Australia and New Zealand are so beautiful. Seen so many places and have done so many things I wanted to do :banana:


03-29-2008, 07:13 PM
I've done a lot of things since I'm back from my vacation, but the thing is it just was not interesting for an update. Just because I had to make three or for of the same parts, parts that I already showed in previous posts.

But now I can show some new stuff, not much, but it is something new. First of all I almost finished two dustfilters, only need to clean, sand and polish them.
Drilled two holes in the acrylic and tapped the hole. Cut of the heads of some bolts and placed those in the holes. These metal pins that stick out need to keep the acrylic piece, that comes on top, in place.


The top, filter material and bottom.


And this is where the filters will be placed, I can slide them in there. This is the bottom of the case, underneath.



From these intakes the air will be guided through airducts. On the left you can see the holes without the airduct and on the right you can see the airduct in place.


This is how I mounted the airduct, just tighten the bolts and the aluminium profile pulls the airduct onto the rubber seal.


Also did some detailwork. Something that will be mounted on the backside of the case.


This will be the airoutlet on the back of the case. The frosted acrylic will give a pretty cool effect when the light from the orange fan is on. Used I torch to give you a bit of an impression.


03-30-2008, 04:03 PM
I just love Australia, if I could find a job over there I would book a flight for tomorrow.

A very small update today. I had to mount the fanhousings and didn't want the bolts to be visible. This is what I came up with. I glued two pieces of acrylic (5mm.) together and cut a triangle from this piece. To make it fit I rounded one corner, so I could glue it in the corner, on the inside, of the fanhousing.


After this I drilled a hole in these pieces of acrylic and tapped it. Attached it with two bolts to the aluminium panel. You can see the two bolts above the airducts.


A view from the side.


and from another angle. The compartment with the airduct will not be visible when this case is finished, only the side with the fanhousing will.


04-06-2008, 02:25 PM
Send you a PM mofo.

Working on some more dustfilters. I don't want the dust to reach the radiators or even get into the ducts. So I will need dustfilters for the intakes on the sidepanels. I'm talking about these guys.


This is what I came up with.


I integrated the frosted white intake grill. Used some pieces of acrylic to raise it a bit. Glued it onto the grill and mounted it from behind with some bolts, not visible in when mounted.


All parts joint.


This part will be mounted in here, so from the back of the intake.


Not ready yet, still need to make something that keeps this thing in place.

04-12-2008, 08:49 AM
I will take a picture from my G1/4 tap for you and it is just b4i7 told you. Just drill a hole, slightly smaller then the tap and turn the tap into the hole. The tap cuts a thread into the material and pulls itself to the other side of the material.


This one is a G1/4 tap and has to be done in two steps. The one in the picture is the first one.

04-13-2008, 10:46 AM
The four dustfilters for the sidepanels are in place now.
From the back (inside from the case)


and with the acrylic duct mounted.


The sidepanel from the other side.


04-13-2008, 02:37 PM
Thanks. I'm very happy with the result and the case is really starting to shape up now.


Waiting for some frosted and orange acrylic now. Can only work on some small details next week.

04-24-2008, 04:11 PM
I don't think this case will take part in a competition.

I started to work on some more detailwork. I received some sheets of orange acrylic. Frosted orange, fluor orange and just normal orange and that's what I started to work with on the windows of the sidepanels. I cut some rings that follow the outline of the windows.


This is just the start. I just can't keep things simple. I will use some frosted white acrylic as well. Hope to show you guys some more coming weekend.

04-26-2008, 09:41 AM
The window is starting to shape up now. Made two pieces of frosted acrylic. These are slightly wider on the inside of the window then the orange acrylic. Drilled 6 holes and tapped them.


The orange acrylic is mounted on the outside and the frosted white ones on the inside of the sidepanel.


WIll have to wait for some transparant acrylic from my sponsor AC Ryan to finish the windows.


I added the frosted white acrylic with a reason ofcourse. The reason is that it will use some leds to make it stand out.


05-14-2008, 03:09 PM
Haven't had much time to work on the case the last couple of weeks.
I know many people like to see coloured lights in a casemod, so I bought 250 orange leds. Don't think I will use all of them, but they were cheap and will always come in handy.
I like to see the case without any colour, just with "warm" white light. So I bought another 300 white leds. So white light for me and orange for the people that like colour. With some switches I can turn on and off different groups of leds. The switches will be mounted on the backside of the case, but I wanted to keep it in the same style. I used the outtake on the back of the case as a reference. Talking about this outtake.


And this is what I came up with.



05-19-2008, 04:49 PM
Thanks for the compliments.
Today I just want to post some pictures without tellling you guys what it is.


All these pieces are parts of a bigger piece.


It is starting to shape up now, but I still need to do much work on this thing. Maybe I'm just starting to go crazy, to put in so much hours in this part, because it will only be one very small detail in the case.

05-31-2008, 12:23 PM
Received some materials from AC Ryan, thanks :up: Dennis from AC Ryan.
SO it was time to finish the windows. Still needed to close them with transparant acrylic. It was quite a job to get these things to fit into the orange rings. Here you can seen the transparant window.


And this is the window from the backside of the sidepanel.


Also did some work on the reservoirs. I wanted to keep them in the same style as the windows. So I made some parts from orange and frosted acrylic.


The white frosted acrylic ring will be glued into the reservoir itself.


The orange ring will be mounted onto the polyester lid.


Made some holes for the reservoirs in the lid.


and with the reservoirs in place.


06-08-2008, 12:42 PM
I will use some tubes to get some wires for the LEDs, from the bottom of the case to the back.


As you can see the part I was working on a while ago isn't a fangrill. I filled the gaps with some frosted acrylic and it these spots will spread some light into the case.


06-29-2008, 11:57 AM
I use Acrifix 192 to glue acrylic.

Applied the first layer of primer and now it's easy to see where I need to add some more bondo. I'm still not satisfied with the result.



Most of the flat parts are finished now and ready for paint, but the parts like the inakes still need some more bondo and sanding.

07-13-2008, 04:53 PM
Received the first hardware. Because it took me so long to build this case I needed to change the hardware. The old hardware hasn't been thrown away. It's all being used in another computer that I build for my dad.
The new hardware: a Asus Striker II extreme, a 900 watt Tagan powersupply and 2 GB Corsair ddr3 Dominator memory.


I need to decide whether I will use the watercooling block on the motherboard. Still not sure, because it looks very flow restrictive. The blue on the Corsair Dominator fans will need to be removed to match my color scheme.

07-20-2008, 05:55 PM
Don't know, I didn't test the RAM cooler yet. I can always slow them a bit with a resistor.

Today I test fitted some of the hardware.


No problems so far. On the other side of the case I will mount the 3 harddisks, one Velociraptor 300 GB and two Samsung 1 TB Spinpoints. I need a rack for the harddisks. The rack needs to slide into the harddisk housing with the springs.


08-03-2008, 03:40 PM
Thanks guys and yes the videocard will be watercooled. I'm even thinking about adding a second pump for a second loop to watercool the mosfets, NB and SB with EKwaterblocks.

I made a simple housing to mount the harddisks. Just two plates of aluminium and acrylic.


Now it's time to place the harddisks into the harddisk box, the box with the RC shocks. To prevent the harddisk from sliding in the box I glued some acrylic onto the bottom and to, some sort of rail.


The harddisks slide in between the acrylic rail and are being stopped at the end by another piece of acrylic.


From the backside of the case I can slide the harddisk into the box.


To prevent the harddisk from sliding out again I made something else. Just two acrylic blocks glued onto the acrylic that will cover the backside of the box.



The acrylic will be mounted with 4 small bolts.


Need to mount the logo, at the moment it's being kept in place with some sticky tape and need to add some leds on the backside of the logo, so from inside the harddiskbox.


08-18-2008, 05:20 PM
Before I start working on the watercooling I needed to test my hardware, but not before I mounted some leds in the harddisk box. I used 18 leds and these leds will shine on the back of the FJW logo. I used some acrylic to guide the wires a bit.


I needed enough clearance for the harddisk holder, because it needs to slide into the box. On the right side you can see there enough room between the wires/leds and the harddisks.


The top of the box is mounted with small hexheaded bolts and not glued, because I need to be able to reach the leds in case a led dies and needs to be replaced. The blue you see is from the Tagan powersupply, I need to replace those leds with white ones ofcourse.


To test the hardware I installed Windows on the Velociraptor harddisk. No problems at all, so I'm ready for the next step, the watercooling setup.

08-26-2008, 05:09 PM
Because I changed my hardware plans, I needed to use a heavier powersupply. The problem was that the cables from the new Tagan PSU are somewhat different situated on the psu, so I needed to make some new brackets for the cables. This time I used some black anodized aluminium from AC Ryan and transparant orange acrylic, instead of the white sheets I used for the old brackets.


The cables in the picture above are the standard sleeved Tagan cables, but that will change soon. I will use some tubing to cover them and this will also make it possible to pl;ace the cables in an almost perfect straight line.
On the left side of the picture you can see 4 cables going through an aluminium sheet. I needed to make holes in the sheet that were big enough to pull the cables through, but that was a problem because that would mean there was a gap between the cables and the holes. So I made an acrylic parts that fits tight around the cables and can be opened on the left and right side to pull the cables through.


10-28-2008, 05:11 PM
Haven't had much time to work on this mod lately :(
But that doesn't mean there is no progress. Been working on the leds that will light up the windows. First I needed to make something to mount the leds. I took some acrylic sheets, one 5mm. and one 3mm. plate, glued these together and made small pieces of it. Drilled a 5mm. hole in every piece and glued all these pieces onto the frosted ring.This is the result.


I needed quite a lot of these acrylic pieces because I have got four windows.
One of the rings completed and ready for the leds.


A led in every acrylic piece and connecting the wires.


Time to test the leds.


The endresult will be very different of course. The glass fiber sidepanels will be painted black so you won't see the strange "dots" of light anymore.

I also received all my watercooling stuff. Again changed the original plans, will not watercool the harddisks, these are in a seperate compartment of the case anyway. I will watercool the CPU, GPU ( full cover block) the mosfets and the North and Southbridge. All EKwaterblocks except the CPU block, that's a D-tek Fuzion v2 block.

11-02-2008, 03:23 PM
Thanks guys, it's always nice to here people like what you are doing. I would lie if I told you I didn't care about other peoples opinions.
No update today, but I wonna show you my new tool :banana:


I don't think I will use it much for this casebuild, because I will need to learn a lot before I can use it.

11-02-2008, 04:56 PM
I was looking for information about CNC mills for quite some time and I discovered a Dutch cnc forum http://cnczone.nl
They helped me a bit and showed me where to look for more information. I wanted to buy a smaller one, but then I saw this one in the for sale forum on cnczone. It is a High-Z S-720/T
Almost everything was included, only need to look for some CAD software like autocad. I can also use some free CAD programs for the time being.

11-07-2008, 12:54 PM
I'm still reading all the manuals that came with the machine but I couldn't wait to try and mill a text into acrylic. Made a couple of different test pieces, before I milled the name Evolutionary into one of the windows.


And this is the result.


12-16-2008, 05:16 PM
Thanks for all your comments.

It's been a while since I've posted an update. Been playing with my new toy, the cnc mill.
The black Tygon hose isn't as flexible as the normal transparant one. Needed something for tight bends and that's where the mill comes in.


These two parts can easily be removed. Just unscrew the three hex bolts.



And with the part in place.


A also made a part that will guide two hoses, that pass through a aluminium panel. Nice to practice milling a pocket. Made a pocket in an orange sheet of acrylic, two millimeters deep. The black acrylic fits into this pocket.



12-22-2008, 04:32 PM
Thanks guys and yes I just love that machine. When I came up with the name for this case I also remembered an image from school. Darwin and his evulotion theory, combined with the picture from a monkey that starts to walk upright and finishes with a man. Now it is possible to pick an image from the internet and engrave it into some plexi with the mill. It has to be something that fits into to theme and looks of the case, so I used the same color scheme as with the fanholders. Orange, black and white.


12-24-2008, 08:36 AM
I used an engraver's milling cutter.
The first one in the list.

12-28-2008, 01:54 PM
Those are some great engravings B4i7. I guess I wil have to add some of those ball nose endmills to my wishlist. I think you have also engraved the outlines of the images, like the S, didn't you? I order my mills abroad in Germany, to save money on the shippingcosts I only order stuff when I have a list with more parts. Besides that I will have to save some money first ;) But I will definately buy a couple of those ball nose mills, thanks for the tip.

I finished almost all the hoseclamps now.


I don't know whether you remember the thing I made for the pump, the acrylic housing. I needed to dress it up a bit.


It's not finished yet, still need to cut away some of the ribs for the pumpoutlet. Will have to wait for the glue to harden first.


At first I wanted only to glue on those black ribs. Made the transparant acrylic parts just to keep everything in place while glueing it onto the housing, but I like those transparant parts so much that I will leave them on.


05-04-2009, 01:13 AM
The casemod is almost ready. Need to do some more work on the reservoirs and the last thing I want to do is paint the glassfibre parts.
At the moment I can't do any work on the case because I'm in Australia right now, travelling from Darwin to Perth, where I'm right now and tomorrow I will start to travel along the westcoast to Albany and back to Perth again. Will be back in the Netherlands at may 12, so no worries, I haven't stopped working on this casemod.