Retro total mod

[Harpspiel]

I've been watching the forums for a while, gathering ideas for my own first case/keyboard/monitor/mouse mod. I have always loved Steampunk, long before I even knew what Steampunk was - the Dwemer ruins of Morrowind, the strange workings of machines in the Myst series. Perhaps this fascination began in childhood with trips with my father and brother to an old scrap metal yard full of mysterious brass fittings, transistors and old radio tubes.

Another source of inspiration is the case mods made from old radios, especially Mach's Cobramatic. I particularly like the simplicity and strong lines of the Art Deco era, rather than the fussiness of Art Nouveau that usually influences Steampunk designs.

I have a stripped Crosley 1950s radio, an IBM Model M keyboard on the way, a half-finished monitor, and a lot of ideas for where to go from here. Follow along, and I'll try to keep up with detailed pictures and descriptions.

Here are the worklogs of my main inspirations:
A BioShock case mod (http://bioshock.web4.hu/cikk/hihetetlen-bioshock-szamitogep-mod-magyarorszagrol) that rocks the cross between Steampunk and Deco influences
Mach's Cobramatic (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10511), of course
Rampkins' Buccaneer (http://www.rampkins.com/buccaneer_steampunk_kb_buildlog.html)
Jake von Slatt's monitor (http://steampunkworkshop.com/lcd.shtml)


Here is what I have for the monitor so far:
http://s19.postimage.org/k9u8mfxfn/IMG_0943.jpg
http://s19.postimage.org/stdmk75s3/IMG_0941.jpg
I haven't yet come up with a good way to mount it. I have seen it done with an old lamp stand, or some copper pipe, but neither is quite the sleek look I'm going for.



I found an old Crosley 10-145M turntable radio on Ebay, not in working condition, and unfortunately did not get any pictures before I stripped it. I'm in the process of sanding it down to refinish it, since the finish was cracked and scraped.
http://s19.postimage.org/dlxmzudxf/IMG_0944.jpg
http://s19.postimage.org/uaz2vrair/IMG_0948.jpg
http://s19.postimage.org/qsn2zd9mr/IMG_0949.jpg
http://s19.postimage.org/qv6ym7dab/IMG_0953.jpg

The turntable from the radio:
http://s19.postimage.org/6p3gnbhmr/IMG_0955.jpg

Tubes and speaker:
http://s19.postimage.org/pip9kbfur/IMG_0956.jpg

I'm hoping to make the knobs functional again, similar to what Mach did.
http://s19.postimage.org/69s6uavpf/IMG_0952.jpg

Inner workings from an old clock. I'd like to include gears in some way, but I'd really prefer them to be functional, so I have yet to figure out how to use them.
http://s19.postimage.org/aa4e3nshv/IMG_0957.jpg

Decorative grill from Home Depot:
http://s19.postimage.org/qmefte6tf/IMG_0959.jpg

$1 adhesive tile - I'm considering putting leather in the center and making a mousepad.
http://s19.postimage.org/ntl89d6gz/IMG_0960.jpg

Keyboard letters, which I will have professionally printed, cut out and glue to the tops of the keys:
http://s19.postimage.org/pmo4xornn/keyboardfull.png

I'm always looking for ideas and further inspiration, especially for how to incoporate further Steampunk elements without cluttering up the design.

[Fuganater]

WOW! Welcome and good luck. I'm starting to round up stuff for my steampunk mod.

[TLHarrell]

Recommend inserting the key caps into the keys and then covering them with clear acrylic resin. Looks like a good plan so far though. Nice. I really like steampunk design. Some really get it and do great stuff. Some just don't.

Do not do this:
http://img2.etsystatic.com/il_570xN.312965358.jpg
This product on Etsy if you want to go laugh... Steampunk Keyboard on Etsy $99 (http://www.etsy.com/listing/93256246/steampunk-computer-keyboard?ref=sr_gallery_5&sref=&ga_search_submit=&ga_search_query=steampunk+keyboard&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=handmade&ga_facet=handmade)

[Harpspiel]

Oh yeah, I actually saw that keyboard on Etsy, and ran across many similar ones in my search for steampunk keyboard instructables. I've gone through lots of different ideas on how to do the keys, starting with using old typewriter keys (I believe that is Datamancer's (http://www.datamancer.net/keyboards/keyboards.htm) technique) and moving on to using copper crimp rings (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202032916/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=crimp%20rings&storeId=10051) with punched acrylic key covers, similar to Rampkins' first Buccaneer model. However, I had pretty poor success punching a clean circle out of the acrylic using a hole saw, so I started to look for other options.

Finally, after a quick email to the helpful people at Rampkins, I believe I've settled on a technique: wooden dowels, drilled with a paddle bit to form a rim, with the printed key letter inserted and then covered in clear resin, a la the Buccaneer MKII (http://www.rampkins.com/buccaneer_mk2.html). Theirs certainly came out looking very sleek, with a slight depression in the key that will hopefully be reminiscent of the Model M's original concave key tops.

I'm also looking around for brass fittings for the spacebar and to cover the gems I'll place over the LEDs. Rampkins cut their own brass, but I'm not sure I'm quite that adventurous. I have found various cabinet backplates that might work for a spacebar, such as this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400219302922?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649) one.

[jdbnsn]

Ohhhh, this looks like an exciting project! Can't wait to move it "works in progress"! You know, you can print those keys out rather easily at Office Max if you make them in photoshop. If you want to try it, just make sure that your document size is appropriate and the dpi is set to 300 minimum, 600 maximum (600 is the top range of their printers). Then you can have them printed on clear vinyl sheet for a couple of bucks and the quality is quite good. Know that any shade of white will be clear on the page (some of the techs may tell you only true white, they are wrong). Then you can cut them out with an exacto blade and I use a dremel to true up any cuts that need rounding. I have seen some stuff at Michaels craft/hobby stores that is a viscous liquid which you pour on a surface and it hardens like glass which might be a good solution to finish your keys, but I have never used it so don't quote me.

[Harpspiel]

Wow, thanks jdbnsn. 600 dpi sounds great - I already tried printing the letters out on my home printer, which just didn't do them justice. I'll also have to look for that Michael's crafting liquid.

I've seen the lovely brass cut-outs that Mach has ordered from Vintage Manufacturing (http://www.vintagelaser.com/index.html) and used for fan covers, hard drive mounts, etc. Has anyone else worked with them, and are there any ideas how much projects usually cost?

[d_stilgar]

I know that someone here in the forums charges a pretty fair price to laser cut acrylic. You could have him do the key caps if you want.

Who here has a laser cutter? Forum? Help me out here?

[AmEv]

Tl.

[TLHarrell]

*raises hand*

[Harpspiel]

Keyboard plan completed, now to run it off to the printers. . . .

http://s19.postimage.org/axloc5iwz/keyboard.jpg

[Stonerboy779]

Can you explain the num pad to me? And why you still even have a num lock? it looks cool and all are you just going to need to remember the pad to use it, while not a problem just unusual.

Also I reckon you should get TL to etch this into plexi for you as already mentioned.

[Harpspiel]

I don't think it will take long to learn which key is which number. I already type mostly by touch anyway, and I'm making it for my personal use rather than to sell. The num lock is there simply because it is one of the keys on the IBM Model M I ordered. I suppose I could map it to something else, but I've never really felt the need for more keys.

I liked the idea of a rose compass on the keyboard, but if people think it doesn't go well enough with the rest of the keys, I'm open to suggestions.

TL - does your etching deal with colors at all? Like, would it be practical to make the actual key tops out of plexi, and not just covers for the keys?

[d_stilgar]

I like the compass rose and got it from a cursory glance, so I don't think you need to change it.

[Kayin]

The clear stuff is Envirotex, and yes, it works just fine for this.

[TLHarrell]

Plexiglass can be etched with the laser, then paint filled. You could use clear, etch into the back, then fill with white paint, then cover with black or whatever color you want to have the keys in. Or you can do it on the front on top of black acrylic, then fill the etching with white. There are many things that can be done. You could even plan to edge light the acrylic. All depends on your imagination, or mine.

[Harpspiel]

Hm, I'm looking up edge lighting acrylic and it's looking really cool . . . keys that were stark black/white during the day, but could be edge lit at night would be sweet, but how would you edge light an individual key?

[TLHarrell]

Good planning and very small surface mount LEDs.

[Harpspiel]

My RAM, motherboard and IBM Model M have come, so here are all the pieces together:

http://s19.postimage.org/a1942lseb/Picture_030.jpg

http://s19.postimage.org/qqajyiozn/Picture_022.jpg

The cpu, hard drive, and various fans are salvaged from my husband's old computer. I have spent the evening reassembling the components in his old case to make sure everything works - which, of course, it doesn't.

I dusted everything off, carefully hooked up all the components, until only the case controls were left. I searched the whole motherboard for the case pins, to no avail. Looking at the schematics, I realized the case pins were completely covered by my massive video card. :facepalm: Not the first time this video card has caused trouble.

Well, the motherboard has onboard video, not the best but enough to get it running. Removed the video card, hooked up power switches, plugged in the PSU. As soon as I flipped the PSU switch, I heard a high, constant whining. Remembered that my husband had bought a new power supply, but never installed it.

So I switched out power supplies, and then came the moment of truth: pressed the power button. No response. Unplugged the power switch, shorted the pins with a screwdriver. Nothing. Removed the RAM, so that the only things plugged into the motherboard are CPU fan, hard drive, CD-Rom, PSU, monitor, mouse and keyboard. Tried both methods again, and again nothing.

The motherboard appears to be receiving power, since a USB mouse I have plugged in lights up. However there is no other indication of it receiving power. When I short it, absolutely nothing happens - no fan movement, no flashing lights, no beeps. If it weren't for the mouse light, I would think it was completely dead.

So much for Plan A and Plan B - anyone have a Plan C?

[Harpspiel]

Odd - took all components out of the case, placed the motherboard on a piece of cardboard, hooked up only the psu, motherboard, monitor, keyboard and mouse. Shorted it, and CPU fan and PSU fan both started.

Attached the hard drive, shorted, nothing. At least I know it's not the motherboard. Hopefully my husband didn't have too many precious files on that hard drive. I have two 500GB drives in my other machine - no real reason to have 1TB in a single computer, so guess where that second drive is going tomorrow morning?

[xr4man]

very nice. and it's always nice to find someone with decent troubleshooting skills. that's actually pretty rare.

good job so far, can't wait to see more.

[Harpspiel]

Last night I was contemplating power buttons for the computer. If you remember, the case originally came with three brown switches on the front:
http://www.radiomuseum.org/images/radio/crosley_radio_corp/10_145m_99397.jpg

Although I find them rather ugly, I was considering leaving them to preserve the look of the case. But reading through Mach's experience wiring rotary switches to work instead of momentary, I thought I'd take the simpler route and just buy a button (http://www.ebay.com/itm/200725662017?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649).

I was explaining this thought process to my husband, who works at a car shop, and he said "Hey, wouldn't it be cool to have race-car style covered switches on the front of your computer to turn it on?"

His shop sells things like this (http://www.aliexpress.com/product-fm-img/503315237-Racing-Switch-Kit-KS-RSK3014-Car-Electronics-Switch-Panels-Flip-up-Start-Ignition-Accessory--wholesalers.html)

Given that I'm keeping all lights in the case amber, a quick Ebay search revealed this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toggle-Switch-Nitrous-Kill-Safety-Cover-Guard-TY01-m-/390324813199?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae12bfd8f)

I'm thinking a central "ignition button" and on either side a toggle covered in a saftey guard, all mounted on a cut piece of brass. Left toggle turns on fans, right toggle turns on lights, central button is power. What do you all think, can I fit it into a Deco mod feel, or should I hold off on this idea for some future mod?

[Harpspiel]

very nice. and it's always nice to find someone with decent troubleshooting skills. that's actually pretty rare.

good job so far, can't wait to see more.

I actually work as a QA supervisor, so one would hope I have good troubleshooting skills 8). Still, sometimes I wonder at how long it takes me to come to the simplest realizations. . . .

For instance, when I connected the new hard drive this morning and the BIOS still wasn't posting, it took me way too long to realize the CPU power wasn't connected. We're now posting like a charm, time to figure out which 64-bit Linux I want.

[Harpspiel]

I am currently typing this on my stripped-down Model M, with a feeling of victory. Stripping it down was not quite as easy as I imagined.

The IBM Model M keyboard is like an impenetrable fortress. The body is made of two pieces of reinforced plastic that snap together in front, and are held together in back by four hex head screws. These screws are set deep within shafts that narrow as they get closer to the screw head. These screws are reputed to be 7/32" - I still could not say with certainty.
My 7/32, 6 pt socket was small enough to fit into the top of the shaft, but could not reach the screws. Home Depot did not have a clue (and who is surprised?), but Sears had a 12pt, 7/32" deep socket for only $4. They assured me that 12pt works perfectly well on a hex head, which makes sense if you think about it. I elatedly carried it home, it fit perfectly in the shaft, and . . . slipped off the edges of the screw. Too big. 7/32 is equal to 5.56 mm, so I got out my own 5 mm hex socket, which was small enough to fit in the shaft, but too small for the screws. At this point, I had had about enough.

5 minutes of what I like to call "tactical application of force":
http://s19.postimage.org/3x95zq8lf/IMG_0995.jpg

And another 5 minutes of my husband gallantly wielding a sawzall:
http://s19.postimage.org/3yj3t5af7/IMG_1003.jpg

Now on to the keys.

Here is a 5/8" dowel, chopped into 1/2" sections.
http://s19.postimage.org/4y4tb4077/IMG_0994.jpg

The dowel, which was supposedly oak, but more likely pine, has a tendency to splinter around the edges. Perhaps that is due to the coarse blade on the miter saw. However, after sanding a small dip into the top, staining, and gluing on the key top, I was not convinced. I went back to my idea of using copper crimp rings, and I think the result speaks for itself:
http://s19.postimage.org/rlk2h9fr7/IMG_0988.jpg

I'll be tidying up the edges with a little black silicone or wood filler, and then covering the surface in some kind of crafting resin. After that, all that is left is to figure out how to mount them on the old keys.

[Fuganater]

Ya I like it with the copper ring. You still going to fill it with resin?

[TLHarrell]

Run a sharpie black marker around the edges of the inserts. For the resin, you might look into dirtying it up slightly with a little brown color. Also, maybe sponge on a slight bit of browns onto the inserts here and there to simulate aging.

[xr4man]

very nice. i like where this is going.

[jdbnsn]

I like the ringed version also. I'm going to move this thread to "work in progress" section since it seems to be in motion. I am watching this one with great interest.

-Jon

[Harpspiel]

I'm currently banging my head on the wall. I've been through so many ideas about how to mount the key caps within the copper crimp rings, and how to attach the key bottoms (that snap onto the keyboard) to the base.

For the key caps, I'm hoping to have a slightly concave surface, similar to the original IBM keys. I'm a touch typist and I type pretty fast, so I don't want my fingers slipping all around on the keys.

First, I cut up a 5/8" dowel into 1/2" segments. I was going to try to sand a concave surface into every single dowel. Then, I was intending to use a paddle bit to hollow out a circle, chop away the sides of the plastic keys until I had a circular shape left, and glue the key bottom onto the dowel. But the dowel was too large for the crimp rings, which have a 13mm ID, and 1/2" dowel would have been too small.

So next, I found a set of concave 13mm wooden buttons on Etsy, which I just ordered - but the person only had 60 left, not the 100 that I need, so I kept looking for other options.

Today it hit me, and I can't believe how much work I was considering putting into these keys, with the paddle bits and the sanding and mounting.

Air drying modeling clay or cement. :facepalm:

When I'm done with this keyboard, I'm going to make a master Instructable, titled "For Goodness' Sake Read This Before You Try to Make a Steampunk Keyboard"

[TLHarrell]

I think if I do a steampunk keyboard, I'll be making a master key or several and then casting them.

[jdbnsn]

Not sure if this would be helpful or not, but Filimon has taught us alot about casting keys. Check out "Ctl Alt Del (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7456)"