C&C tiberium wars Advanced flame tank

[cyclonite]

http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/flametank.png

Hello ppl,

After some time doing other things then modding I started a new case mod: C&C Tiberium wars Advanced flame tank. (http://gathering.tweakers.net/forum/list_messages/1407466)

I wanted to build a flame tank case mod which was able to drive and off-course throw some nice flames. (to test your insurance policy ;))

Previously I created another flame throwing robot from the older C&C tiberium sun genre, Both tanks will be using the same custom made electronics.
But now I wanted to make a mod from the new C&C genre (C&C tiberium wars) (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Command_%26_Conquer_3:_Tiberium_Wars)

I chose the new Advanced flame tank (http://cnc.wikia.com/wiki/Flame_tank_%28Tiberium_Wars%29) because I really like its design.
The design is kind of retro to the tiberium dawn flame tank.

The old Tiberium dawn flame tank:
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/oldtank.jpg


The newer tiberium wars (advanced) flame tank:
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/advtankartistart.jpg



The Design

I wrote down some cirterea I (at least) wanted to implement n the tank:
An (older) FAT PS3 running Ubuntu linux server distro in dual boot with XMB (when not using the tank function but playing GTA or so :D
Tank has to be able to play blue ray.
Tank has to be able to drive autonomously(using camera's and advanced object detection techniques.
It has to be completely wireless, no power cables or so.
A docking station is needed to recharge the batteries(like the ROOMBA) and to automatically connect to the HDMI cable and the beamer :D
2 real working self igniting flame throwers.
The body of the tank at least has to have 180 degrees rotation freedom.
I want to shape everything out of aluminium and Stainless steel.
All electronics and software is designed by me.
These are rather high demands and it probably will take some time in creating and fabricating all components of the tank.
But that is half the fun:D

I started by drawing the tank in inventor, before this project I never worked with this program before, but along the way I learned how to use it.
I designed the tank from very few designs (couln't find any real good high quality images).
This has some pro- and cons:
A con is, I wouldn't get exactly like what the designer at the time had in mind.
A pro is that it leaves more open to my own creative input...

These are a few screenshots of the in-game tank and a art disign of the tank I found on the internet.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/advtankartistart.jpg

http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/advancedTank.jpg


This Time I wanted to make my own tracks and I tried to recreate it as much as possible by looking at the design.
I immediately disigned the matching gear for the tracks along the way.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/track1.png


The tracks will be casted out of aluminium, and in This drawing you can see 12 track connected to each other with special channels.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/track2.png


After this I started on the tracks themselves, I wanted shock absorbers and a chain tightener just like a real tank has.
In total the tank will get 4 of these tracks.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/rups1.png

With both plates on:
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/rups2.png

And te covering plate:
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/rups3.png


These are my own design shock absorberd which will be used in the tank, most parts will be created on the lathe.
Each track will get 8 of these.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/vering.png


The bottom part of the tank will look like this, the tracks are connected to each other with this frame.
Each track has at least 1 degree of freedom to rotate to allow for maximal terrain accesibility.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/onderstel.png


An naturally the body itself...
I mainly created these designs to measure from .
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/schematics.png


And this is how It will get to look.
My own driving PS3 flame tank (who else can say that ? :))
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/tank.png

In total the tank will be about 70 cm long, 50 wide and 26 high.

I hope you like this thread as I am going to use some nice and advanced techniques to get this monster on the road ;)


http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/intro/updates.png
Update 1 - laser cutting (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=289283#post289283)
Update 2 -aluminium casting tools (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=289476&postcount=14)
Update 3 - refining aluminium and first sandcast pour (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=289892)
Update 4 (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=296901#post296901)
Update 5 - flamethrowers (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=302813#post302813)
Update 6 - welding, bending, grinding... (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=316917#post316917)
Update 7 - start of frame and finishes (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?p=320096#post320096)

[cyclonite]

Update 1 - lasercutting

Because I designed the tank in CAD I now can just simply export various parts.
I know a guy who has access to a really neat laser cutting device and he agreed to do some work for me.
The results are really crisp clear.

In total These parts need to be cut:
8 track sides, 3 mm rvs
4 track middle plates (motor gets mounted on these) ,3mm rvs
8 gears, 3mm rvs
4 motor motor supports, 3 mm rvs
1 bottom plate 2 mm rvs
I had to export everything in 2d first after which everything gets designed as efficient as possible onto a plate to minimize the losses.

The parts have been made on this machine
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/lasercut/P1010254.JPG


This is the bottomplate, the left part is from someone else
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/lasercut/P1010255.JPG


This is how it lays in the machine , the head above is the laser.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/lasercut/P1010256.JPG


A little movie of the cutting itself
tebSromCJ_0

This is the result, the parts kan easely be pressed out by hand.
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/lasercut/P1010258.JPG


Closeup of one gear
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/lasercut/P1010259.JPG


One sideplate
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/lasercut/P1010261.JPG


And the bottom plate
http://download.diecyde.com/advtank/lasercut/P1010263.JPG


Thats all folks.

[cyclonite]

I plan on making a few aluminium tank components myself.
Among them are a number of difficult shapes like:

A ball bearing mount
The tracks
Cover plates


The idea is to make molds out of wood and then make aluminium casts of their shapes.

I have done some research, what is nessecairy to melt aluminium and how to cast it.

Aluminium melts at a temperature of 660 degrees celcius.
And with a normal gasflame it is difficult to obtain temperatures like that (or higher).
That is why a furnace is needed.

I shopped for some special materials like insulation cloth which withstands temperatures up to 1400 degrees.
Special fire resistant cement.
A crucible to melt the aluminium in.
Aluminium cleaning material.

At a local hardware store I bought a steel bucket to build an furnace.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0089.JPG
In the top of the bucket I drilled a hole to let the gasses pass through.
The bolts will be used to hang the bucket in a frame.

The frame is made out of some old scrap metal.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0093.JPG

The completed frame...
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0094.JPG

A note to myself, this is why you wear protection glasses. :D
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0095.JPG

I made some sort of suspension bridge construction to lift the bucket from the crucible.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0097.JPG

This is how the bucket goed up, it can be attached to the frame so you have your hands free while casting.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0098.JPG

This is the special insulation which withstands high temperatures.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0099.JPG

I've drawn the inside of the bucket on the the insulation.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0100.JPG

After cutting it out, some cement on the cloth and the inside of the bucket.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0101.JPG

Then I stuck it to the wall of the bucket and had it cure for a day.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0102.JPG

Meanwhile I had begun to make the tools to handle the extremely hot crucible.
I bent some rebar and welded some plates to it to make an axle.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0103.JPG

Welded it..
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0106.JPG

A special bracket is made to attach to the plier, this will prevent the crucible from falling out when casting.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0108.JPG

This is how the plier will sit on the crucible.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/tools/IMG_0111.JPG

Thats all for this update.
Next update is of the refining of the aluminium.
I am really curious about the results:D

Meanwhile I asked a friend if he could mill the tracks out of wood, to use as a positive mold in the future...

[cyclonite]

I wanted to refine my aluminium first to obtain a reasonable quality by mixing good quality together with scrap aluminium.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0114.JPG

This is the setup of the system, 6 bricks are used to keep the funace extremely stable.
and 3 heat resistant bricks are used to set the crucible on.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0118.JPG

The torch is now on, the best thing is my IR -thermometer indicates the outside wall doesn't get very hot, this insulation is doing its work.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0125.JPG

You can see the hot flames rushing out of the pot, things are getting hot now!.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0133.JPG

I don't know what this black stond exactly is, at the shop I was told it is used to clear the aluminium of any oxide.
When sturred through the aluminium mixture the inpurities will start floating at the top.
This should be scooped off , till you see nice shiny liquid aluminium.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0134.JPG

Now I am wrapping the cleaning agent in the aluminum foil so it can be dropped in the crucible.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0136.JPG

When working with liquid aluminium: DON'T forget to use you anti brain scanner hat.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0140.JPG

Next I mix and stir the liquid aluminium a bit so the impurities start floating.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0152.JPG

Then the impurities can be scooped from the liquid.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0142.JPG

Then the aluminium can be cast into forms I use : "mom's patented cake cups ;)"
The aluminium starts out shiny but a dull film starts to develop very fast while it cools.
14WR9YtXxwc

a nice video of the whole proces.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0153.JPG

You can see the crucible is kind of hot.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0157.JPG

After some pours we have nice refined nuggets which can be used later...


sand casting and first pour

I want to make sandcasts and thus I needed some tools to create these casts.

I started by creating some casting molds made from plywood, the casting molds excist out of 2 parts which can be lifted from each other to remove the molded object(s).
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0160.JPG

The mold is marked so you wont make a mistake, how it is put on.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0161.JPG

Next up were 2 small (conical) wooden objects which are easely to remove from the cast.
one is the pour and the other is used as riser.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0163.JPG

Now it is time for the first cast, this gear will be casted and will now function als the mold.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0164.JPG

I dispense some graphite on the mold so it can be removed easely from the sandcast.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0165.JPG

I use this red (oil containing) sand the create the sand mold.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0167.JPG

Next the sand needs to be hammered onto the mold till is it rock solid and no more bubbles exist.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0169.JPG

This is now rock solid but the rest has to be filled to prevent the sand from falling out when ramming the other side.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0172.JPG

The excess had to be removed to leave a flat surface.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0173.JPG

like this...

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0174.JPG

Next the mold needs to be flipped over.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0177.JPG

next the top has to be filled, you can see why the riser and pour are used... they are sitting cold on the gear here...
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0181.JPG

After ramming the other side the casting can be removed again ... now the remove the mold itself.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0182.JPG

You can see the riser and pour on this photo.
They will be removed before the pour...

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0184.JPG

Heating up the furnace...

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0185.JPG

This is the tricky bit.. removing the mold itself... it can be a bit sticking to the sand....

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0187.JPG

Now both parts are put back on each other... the can see the graphite and some shape of the gear...

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0193.JPG

The aluminium is hot now ... so lets get ready....

I have made a movie of another pour... but is it very explanitory...
k32ENKBCkWU

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0195.JPG

You can see the sand smoking...

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0202.JPG

The gear can be seen now.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0204.JPG

The black sand has been burned and cannot be used anymore ,,, the rest is still good.

You can see the result here... not quite as sharp as the original ... but you can make out they belong to each other :D
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0214.JPG

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/mechanical/alufoundry/IMG_0217.JPG

[cyclonite]

Update 4

Hello people, finally update number 4.
Sorry for keeping you waiting, my fathers engine of his boat broke down and I had to overhaul it.
And after it was fixed it ran well for a couple of hours but then one of the injectors broke down.

If someone likes to take a look at the process, I created a page on the overhaul. (http://www.diecyde.com/index.php?page=volvo-penta-md22-overhaul)



But to the point, I have also done lots of work to the tank.
I stripped my PS3 from its housing to take a look at the electronics
The electronics and pneumatics had been bought.
a succesfull pour of a row tracks have been done.
a track has been assembled.
multiple parts of electronics have been designed
I started shaping pieces of metal.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_h1.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/h1.JPG)
This is 1 of the airbottles I will be using, it is resistant up to 200 bar pressure and used by paintball devices.
A pressure reducer will be connected to this bottle.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_h2.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/h2.JPG)
A converter to connect the hoses to the bottle has been bought.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_h3.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/h3.JPG)
To connect the bottles to the frame I created 2 mounting brackets.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_h4.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/h4.JPG)
As you can see it is placed on the bottle like this, it is held in place by 3 screws.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_h6.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/h6.JPG)
This is the airstation to fill the bottles with air from a large diving bottle.



http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k1.jpg
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k1.jpg)
I did continue the development of the electronics of flame tank V1.0
This one had a screen and some other electronics which on the new MCB controller will be removed.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k2.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k2.JPG)
The old MCB controller connected to its small computer, that is a simple x86 processor which runs on 300MHZ and runs ubuntu 10.04 server edition.
The PS3 will use this version too.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_m4.png
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/m4.png)
This is the NEW MCB controller V2.0
It supports the following features:

3 bobines to ignite the fluids.
usb slave interface to the ps3
4 sharp IR distance sensors.
i2c bus for software updates and control of the motor PCB's.
spi interface
pressure sensor (up to 10 bar)
8 servo's
external serial bluetooth module
4 external leds
electronic compass
PCB is 45 x 55 mm
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k3.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k3.JPG)
I did continue analysing the PS3

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k4.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k4.JPG)
The PS3 with the PSU next to it, as I want to use a 12V power supply for the PS3. I had to develop my own (stable) PSU.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k5.jpg
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k5.jpg)
This is the PS3 PSu, as you can see it is quite large.
It generated 2 voltages 12V for the board and 5V as standby power for the capacitive buttons and bluetooth receiver.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k6.jpg
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k6.jpg)
On this picture the 12V connector is good to see, I had only one problem.
I couldn't find the connector anywhere to buy, I think I will solder my PSU directly to the PS3 PCB.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k7.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k7.JPG)
And this is the inside of the originale PSU, as you can see It is a simple design.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_k8.png
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/k8.png)
And this is what I came up with, the specs:
buck boost design with a voltage input range from 7 to 16 volt DC
output is 12v stable and 5v constant (it can be disabled through the internal processor)
The design can handle up to 200 Watt.
The PSU can be controlled through i2c
processor updatable through i2c
voltage and current measument, these values can be read constantly.
PCB is 86 x 45 mm
PSu can also run natively (without processor in the PS3)


http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_l1.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/l1.JPG)
Next step was to look at how the track would fit.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_l2.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/l2.JPG)
The motor fits perfectly.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_l3.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/l3.JPG)
The concept of the current tank has been changed quite a bit compared to the first tank.
With the first tank a Motor controller which could controll up to 8 motors was used (through i2c)
For the new concept one processor for each motor is used, still controlled through i2c.
In total 4 wires run into the track (GND, VCC, SCL and SDA)
I want to mount the new controller directly to each motor.
(this is quite a challange as the pcb needs to be small)

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_l4.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/l4.JPG)
This is the track,it isn't welded yet but fits perfectly.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_l4.png
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/l4.png)
The designed motor print has the following specs:
The design withstands voltages up to 16V
short circuit proof.
The design can controll motors up to 3 amps.
The PCB can be controller by an RC controller (as motor or servo)
digital (puls) and analog(trim resistor) feedback sensors
power measurement of the motor
PCB van controll a motor normally or as a servo, when a second print is mounted it even van controll stepper motors
PCB has a diameter of 26 mm
software is upgradable by i2c
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_m1.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/m1.JPG)
This is the bobine used to ignite the spiritus fume.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_m2.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/m2.JPG)
I bought the camera at dealextrem, I am using 4 of them.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_m3.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/m3.JPG)
THe GPS module is also bought from deal extreme.



http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n1.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n1.JPG)
These are the tracks, milled from MDF wood.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n2.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n2.JPG)
Too make the surface smooth I use filler and then sand it down.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n3.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n3.JPG)
These are the plates after treatment.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n4.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n4.JPG)
After that a mold had to be made to place the bindol sand in.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n5.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n5.JPG)
Because aluminum is quite dense I use bolts to ensure I will not float while pouring.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n6.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n6.JPG)
The mold is coated by graphite so the sand releases the mold easy.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n7.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n7.JPG)
The graphite on the plates.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n8.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n8.JPG)
After the sand can be poured.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n9.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n9.JPG)
The other site is filled too, after that the wooden mold is removed and the complete thing is tightened.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n10.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n10.JPG)
After that the first test pour has been done, sadly it didn't came out quite right.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n11.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n11.JPG)
As you can see the aluminium didn't flow quite right.
This is due to the temperature and the consistency of the aluminium.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n12.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n12.JPG)
The tracks which are good fit perfectly

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n13.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n13.JPG)
I created an improved burner, now the crucible gets way hotter.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n14.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n14.JPG)
You can see the crucible glow even after a few minutes.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n15.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n15.JPG)
This is the new result, WAY better.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_n16.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/n16.JPG)



http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_o1.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/o1.JPG)
After this I started on the Stainless steel hoods, I want to mold the metal myself with a hamer and an english wheel.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_o2.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/o2.JPG)
I cut the shape out of the steel.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_o3.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/o3.JPG)
You have to hammer dents in the metal to stretch it as much possible and then roll out the dents.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_o4.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/o4.JPG)
I roll out the dents with an english wheel, I use different rolls for different curves.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/thumb_o5.JPG
(http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/o5.JPG)
And then the steel needs to be rolled...

I made a movie from this process and removed the audio (because of the noice :D)
URjlrEWW2f4

ps. I Anyone wants to see the schematics of the electronics I created, just ask.

Thats all folks :D

[cyclonite]

Time for a small update.

I have been busy designing and prototyping the most important part of this tank:
The flame throwers! :)

As allways with prototyping there are successes and setbacks.
What I initially wanted to do is:
Blowing air past a hole to create a vacuum, this vacuum sucks in fuel which will then be blown into small particles (easy to ignite)
This mixture then has to travel past an constant arc which should ignite the mixture.

I first started with building an constant arc, I cracked open a few old CRT monitors to salvage the flyback driver from them.
As I was experimenting and researching I stumbled upon homebuilt plasma speakers A.K.A. singing arc.

cEeWtBAE5LY
These arcs are modulated by sound and can display normal audio.

Thus I created a prototype of such a speaker.
After some experimenting this is my first attempt, de sound is still a bit low but you clearly can hear the "C&C red alert's hells march" playing
f6qpnJjS_Yw


Next part was the design of the flamethrower itself.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0657.JPG
A large hole is drilled for the air-fuel mixture.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0658.JPG
Also the back side has to be drilled.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0661.JPG
This will become the hole through which the fuel will be transported to the vacuum chamber.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0662.JPG
Next part is to drill the actual hole from the fuel hose to the vacuum chamber.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0665.JPG
The drilled holes them are welded shut so no leakage can occur no matter the temperature.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0669.JPG
These insulators will hold the electrodes for the sparc gap.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0674.JPG
Yeehaa a nice constant arc

After having created the inner nozzels (which control the amount of vacuum and the fuel-air ratio)
I did a few tests.

The fluids did spray very well with my design but the ac just couldn't ignite the mixture.
I did some test with a guard flame running on butane.
I bought 2 butane tourches and created new housings for them and adapted them in such a way they could be shut off with a valve.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0675.JPG
You can see the tourches here, they are fitted in a new brass housing.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0676.JPG
I created this holder to accomodate the tourches, the touches will be mounted at an angle for the best ignition position.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0678.JPG
Then I welded it toghethe with the flamethrower itself.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0679.JPG
You can see how the electrode will now ignite the butane gas, I am thinking of relocating the electrode to the top of the flame thrower so the air won't intterupt the ozone created by the arc.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0680.JPG
You can see the thing with the tourch attached.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0681.JPG
And the rear.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0682.JPG
And now the unit with the initial valve attached (this changed later)


http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0684.JPG
I had to create a connector to distribute the butane to both tourches, that is why I made this.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0685.JPG
Both pieces of brass are connected to each other by soldering them together.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0687.JPG
And now with the air connectors attached.

Next step were the actual results :D, hope you like them.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/IMG_0688.JPG
In this picture you can see the complete setup, more detail is shown in the movie.

wmIqxRdVStw

If you have questions : please ask ;)

[cyclonite]

I owe you an update for far too long now.
That happens when someone has too much hobbies.

Anyway after my recent HDD crash I lost a lot of pictures but I managed to salvage some of them in my backups.
But sadly I have lost a lot of pictures documenting the welding of the tank.

Have fun watching/reading!

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_20100317_001.jpg


Further development on the source code on the still old platform.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0276.JPG


I bent an aluminium strip around the tube to cut it in a straight line with my plasma cutter.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0279.JPG


This part is a bit trial and error, to get the look and feel 'just right'.
It has been simply tacked to allow reloaction if is doesn't work for me.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0280.JPG


The steel has been hammered till it was bent like this.
After that it had been rolled by and english wheel and cut down to size.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0281.JPG


I cut out the sides by tracing it over and then cutting it out.
After that I bend it to its shape and then welded it down.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0282.JPG


The tacks are good to see on this image, a small part has been completely welded.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0293.JPG


I welded some reenforcements to the body to make it more rigid, also the hood and cylinders are mounted.
As you can the it doesn't fit yet like it should.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0294.JPG


This is the back side.
The space between the cylinders is too small, I will make some provisions in the hood to compensate for this.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0295.JPG


The front side is mounted and welded.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0296.JPG


A picture for the overall look.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0301.JPG


A front side view with the blue ray placed at its position it will come.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0303.JPG


After I desided on the blue ray's position I welded its supports to the body.
Aditionally this provides a rigid body.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0304.JPG


This is how the blue ray will be mounted.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0305.JPG


And it even fits under the hood still

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0335.JPG


I want the cap to be removable, that is why I welded strips to the body on which the cap can be bolted.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0336.JPG


The tack welds can be seen clearly while it is beeing shaped to the right position.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0337.JPG


An overview of the welded strips, this makes it quite rigid.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0354.JPG


The cap has been rounded slightly.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0357.JPG


Next step was the mounting of the cap in the middle, this cap cannot be removed because it needs an fixed position needed by the blue ray player.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0358.JPG


A side view of the tank.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0359.JPG


This is how the rear hood is mounted, I will weld a piece of rod to make it fit perfectly.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0361.JPG


An opening was needed for the blue ray player for the cd's, this has to be on exactly the right height.
The edges are kind of sharp, this needs to be solved because it will damage cd's.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0362.JPG


Yes it fits!

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0363.JPG


I took a tube of brass and grinded a thin slot in it.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0364.JPG


After trimming the brass I clamped it to the body, now the cd's are safe.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0365.JPG


I soldered the brass to the body with my hot air soldering station.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0366.JPG


The welding of the rod can be seen here.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0368.JPG


I made some space in the hood needed for the cylinders this will be made on 2 positions to make it symmetrical.

I also made a small image of the TIG welding:
nAeruHqSqgQ

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0375.JPG


I wanted to make a screen in front of the tank where I could change the settings for the tank.
I recently changed the design but still wanted to show it to you.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0378.JPG


It incorporated a flap which could slide in front of the screen to protect it.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update6/tu5_IMG_0379.JPG


I glued it together with the sliding mechanics.

So far this update,

I hope you like it

[cyclonite]

Again a small update.

I worked hard on the tank recently and thus I am again ready for another update.

I am also working on the software but it whould be rather boring to show foto's of this proces. :P

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0304.JPG
With the thicknesser I shaved an MDF plate down to the right thickness for the tube sealings.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0305.JPG
After cutting the plate into small rouds I sanded them down.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0306.JPG
The top aluminium cover needs grooves to get neatly placed on top of the tupes.
The mounted bearing on the mill prevents you from cutting too deep into the wood.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0307.JPG
I clamped the mill into an vice, now I can easely cut the grooves into the wood by rotating the round plates around the mill.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0308.JPG

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0309.JPG
It fits perfectly...

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0313.JPG
On this picture it it more clear on how it will look when the plates will be casted.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0316.JPG
I will cast the plates with aluminium, I created the sand molds with the MDF plugs, next up will be the casting itself.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0311.JPG
Next part was the creating of a bearing mount, the top part of the tank will rotate on the bearing, much like a real tank.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0312.JPG
The bearing will be mounted in this way and secured by tightening a bolt.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0321.JPG
Sadly the MDF distrupted my sand casting, this had to be repaired with my mill.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0322.JPG
And here the end result.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0792.JPG
I drew the mounting lokation on the bottom plate.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2/update7/IMG_0793.JPG
Then I bolted the bearing mount to the tank and cut a hole with my plasma cutter.
Through this hole the cables will be installed...
12v, HDMI, audio etc..
Also a motor will be attached to turn the top part.

[cyclonite]

Finally my PCB's arrived last week after "only" 223 days of waiting

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0812.JPG
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0813.JPG

I immediately ordered all the components:
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0814.JPG
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0815.JPG

I have soldered and tested 2 PCB's up till now:

The bluetooth pcb and the main controller board pcb.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0816.JPG
First I warm the pcb up to a temperature of around 130 degrees celcius, after that I bring the hot air soldering iron close to the chip for about a minute (till the chip solders itself to the pcb.
Naturally I use some no-clean flux, this makes the solder flow better.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0818.JPG
an indication of MLF technology (this is an 20 eurocent coin)
First I attach solder to the chip and after that I relow it to the pcb, I let gravity to the hard work for me.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0819.JPG
Also here I am warming the PCB before reflowing.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0820.JPG
This is the main controller board, tested and ready.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0821.JPG
There are also components on the bottom side.

http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0822.JPG
And a closeup of the bluetooth PCB

Soon the other PCB's!

[cyclonite]

The PS3 power supply is done and all works in the first try.
Up till now I only found one small design error (this was easely corrected bij removing a small wire).

Below You can see the bottom, the diodes and mosfets stick out significant.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0823.JPG

And here the top part, This PCB is completely self sufficient.
But I still added a small processor with I2c bus, this controller monitors the power usage of the PS3 and can shutdown and start it up when needed.
Also the main controller board can do these actions through this controller.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0824.JPG

I have tested the stability of the design from 8-24V with 0-2.5 Amps, no problems have been found.
The signal is and stays perfectly stable with hardly any ripple.
(I can't go higher then 2.5A with my LAB power supply)
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0826.JPG

Picture of the ripple at 10V, 0Ampere measurement range: 20mV per decade, frequency of the pcb is now 389KHZ and the average ripple is 0.054V Peak to Peak.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0827.JPG

Picture of the ripple at 10V, 2Ampere measurement range: 50mV per decade, frequency of the pcb is now 397KHZ and the average ripple is 0.148V Peak to Peak.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0828.JPG

[cyclonite]

Good grief man what is all this crayzee stuff?! Looks incredibly impressive but I've no idea what any of it is :D Keep up the good work, whatever it is lol

The PS3 needs a stable power supply which can run directly on a battery.
This power supply can convert 8-24 V input to 12 V stabilised up to 25 Amp

By doing this I eliminate various power conversions which cost a lot of energy.


The other pcb's control all sensors, servos and motors.
It also regulates the ignition systems and valves for the flamethrowers.

[cyclonite]

Heheheheh, looks like fun. :D Interesting power connections on those boards...final going to be bolt-on?
Yes, I couldn't find the correct PS3 connectors and didn't want to destroy my good 220V PSU so I will just bolt on some thick cables to my 12V PSU and the PS3


"Ignition systems"... Wait, what???????

Didn't I mention this was a flame tank? :banana:

For completeness of this log I will provide the video where I test the flamethrower.
NOTE: the tank will be controlling all these actions automatically with the PCB's I just posted here.
wmIqxRdVStw

[cyclonite]

i can see it now, you're going to be sitting there playing some game and suddenly your tank is going to turn on you and flame you.

you never know :twisted: brings gaming to a whole new dimension! :P

But I plan to have some safety features embedded, don't want to burn down my garage :P

btw: my software should obey these laws:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Laws_of_Robotics


A robot may not injure a human being or, through inaction, allow a human being to come to harm.
A robot must obey any orders given to it by human beings, except where such orders would conflict with the First Law.
A robot must protect its own existence as long as such protection does not conflict with the First or Second Law.

[cyclonite]

RRRrrrr...

Your. Wish. Is. My. Command.

CREEAaaakkKKKK...

Aif9rz71CYQ

[cyclonite]

IDK if you've looked into batteries yet, but for maximum power density (you know, that you can actually buy) and the best cost per Wh, check out the LiPo available at hobbyking.com. IDK how much capacity you'd need, but one (or multiple) of these should do the trick nicely (ignore the 11.1V nominal; LiPo cells are happiest between 3.8V and 4.2V per cell and have a pretty flat discharge curve, so these packs should stay pretty close to 12V for most of their discharge cycle).
5Ah : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9184
8Ah : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16225
(btw, a tip, if you decide to buy from hobbyking, let the webpage sit at the product you want; it'll frequently eventually pop up a little thing in-window offering a lower price)

For context, your standard UPS battery is a 12V 7Ah SLA.
Thanks for the tip, I have been looking into these batteries.
Initially I will use Dry cell lead batteries (because these are free for me because of my work)

At a later stadium I want to use lipo.
All the PCB's have been designed in such a way that it works on all those voltages.
The PS3 PSU works from 8 to 24 Volt, so 11.1 shouldn't be any problem.

[cyclonite]

Today I also started on the motor PCB's.
These PCB's can drive DC motors and have various feedback methods (motor power usage, step pulses, analog feedback (for servo functionality))

Using the flux pen to add some flux to the PCB, this allows for easy soldering of the small components.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0829.JPG

After that I apply some solder to the pins of the chip (I don't have solder paste)
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0830.JPG

With the programmer I check for any mistakes.
The connector I am using to program this PCB is a piece of an PCI connector salvaged from an old mother board.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0831.JPG

This is a close-up, not all components are attached yet.
I only continue when all is checked for errors.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0832.JPG

Now the PCB is finisched, no problems have been found, I placed a 20 eurocent coin next to the PCB so you can compare its size.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0833.JPG

This is how It will get attached to the motor, the PCB is then controlled using I2c.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0834.JPG

And the front of the track, you can see the pcb is well protected on its current position.
http://www.diecyde.com/uploads/images/projects/flametank2//IMG_0835.JPG