View Full Version : About how much of this paint would it take?
.jrauck
06-14-2006, 08:11 PM
Im going to paint my case with THIS (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalspecks.html) Dupli-Color spray paint. Ive never spray painted a computer case before thats why im coming to you guys. I went out to find this paint and after 4 stores or so I finally found it, but didnt decide to get it yet until I figured out how many cans ill need.
So guys if more than ome how many cans do you suspect it will take me to paint my case with a few coats. Also, would I need primer? If so what kind and how much of that?
CanaBalistic
06-14-2006, 08:38 PM
Yes you need primer! Pick a primer that's close to the color your applying but keept it contrasted so you can see where you have and havent painted. One can should suffice. Sand it if you want a mirror finish. One can of the dupli-color should work as long as it is a big can. I'd get 2 cans if they are small. Sand again if you still want a mirror finish. While your getting your paint, pick up some clear coat. Get the best possible grade you can as cheaper clear coats are somtimes murkey.
.jrauck
06-14-2006, 09:50 PM
alright so im guessing I put a few primer coats on then I spray one coat of the regular spray paint and sand afeter every other coat right? Yes the can is a pretty good size it a little bit bigger than a regular size can. So its going to cost roughly $20 for the can of spray paint that I want a can of primer and the best clear coat that I can find am I right?
I don't know if metal dust in paint should be wet sanded. Won't that eventually just make a layer of the metal dust?
.jrauck
06-15-2006, 03:55 AM
Thats what I was thinkin but wasnt realy sure. Heak ill just test it out on something.
CanaBalistic
06-15-2006, 09:32 PM
The metal flakes are suspended in the paint and as long as the color is still there the flakes will be also.
Sand your piece as flat as you can get it with a coarse grit (150-200) wet sand if you dont like dust but its not important in this stage.
Add some light coats of primer and wet sand with a coarse-medium grit (200-300). with this you want to get any bumps or spatter off.
Paint your piece. Wet sand this and remove the spatter and gloss (300-500). If you go to deep and completly sand through the paint you'll have to paint again and thus, sand again.
Metal flake paint allways looks pastel in color when sanded. This is normal and will revert to the color it was meant to be and really shine when the clear is applied.
Add your clear coat. lots of light coats. wet sand with a high grit (600-800)as you only want to remove spatter. Apply another few coats of clear and sand again with the finest grain paper you can get (800-1000).
Let this dry for a week or two in a warm dry place and then buff it to a mirror shine.
That drying period might not be correct as i have never buffed anything in my life so if somone wants to correct me, go ahead.
If your case or piece has a very bumpy texture you can add a layer of spot putty and sand that smooth. It will save you hr's of sanding the texture down.
.jrauck
06-16-2006, 04:58 AM
k thankyou umm also what is wet sanding? ive been reading more and more about it could you tell me what this is?
This guide is for cars, but the same rules apply.
http://www.mobileworks.com/wet_sanding.html
Basically wet sanding is taking a specific type of sandpaper, soaking it in a solution of water a soap(for surface tension), and lightly sanding a paint job for a better finish.
The first few times you do it, you might suck at it. I know I did.
But, with practice, and over time, you get better.
The one place to STOP when wet sanding is when you hit your primer. If you hit your primer base, you've gone too far and need to start the painting/wet sanding over again.
I'm sure more skilled guys can elaborate and give you a better idea of what to do. Most of the paints I use these days are textured and can't be sanded.
.alchinko.
06-16-2006, 02:57 PM
hey i just painted my case floresant green. i took iron wool and sanded it with that so tthat the paint wouuld stick. i put 2 coats of primer, of 3 paint and 3 of clear coat. it turned out nice. but what you might wanna do after you sand it is get some air stuff and blow it off other wise there is little metal pieces and that sucks.
CanaBalistic
06-16-2006, 10:42 PM
What you should do after sanding is clean your piece with denatured alcohol or a very mild solvent (methanol works well). Dont touch the piece with your bare hands after as the oil in your skin will not make the paint adhear correctly.
90% rubbing alcohol works too, it's all about the evaporation time. Denatured evaporates very quickly.
An air compressor or paper towels are needed after roughing up something to help paint stick. You've got to get all the crap out.
.jrauck
06-17-2006, 04:54 AM
I heared that there is 2 different types of spray paint and if you mix the opposite of primer and the color paint then it will lift the paint right off the surface of what ur painting. Is there 2 different types of spray paint and if so how can I find out what kind it is since I already bought primer, main color, and clear coat I dont want to waste it.
CanaBalistic
06-17-2006, 06:27 AM
An etching primer is best for metal surfaces, its designed to bite into bare metal and provide an exelent surface for the paint to bond to. The two main types of spray paint are laquer and enamel. Laquer is more for wooden surfaces and is almost a stain type product. Enamel is best for metal and is what you should be using.
.jrauck
06-19-2006, 03:19 AM
oh k thankyou
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