How Do I make the Blast door from the Doom 3 project ?

[Wannabeamodder]

Hi guys:
I am very new to modding and am interested in making a roll up blast door like the one Crimson sky made for Doom 3 mars city mod.

I am trying to figure it out by looking at the pictures but that doesn't answer some questions I have.

Like where do you find material for the doors and track system?

Any help you can give will be appreciated

Thanks
Charles:)

[DaveW]

The roll up blast door took a lot of work for Paul, but if you head over to this project here (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272), some else is tackling the same problem. Maybe that will help you out.

-Dave

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks for the link Dave he seems to be tacklng the blast door a lot differantly than Crimson did and I'm not sure if his way will work for me.

If I could just find the material Crimson sky used I have been all over the net looking for plastic 'U' channel for the tracks but I don't know the size to get or the method he used to get the 90 degree bend in it without it collapsing.

Also does anyone know the type and thickness of styrene Crimson sky used for the blast door

Also I can't find plastic tubing that small to put the hinge wire through


Any help will be appreciated

Thanks
Charles

[DaveW]

the method he used to get the 90 degree bend in it without it collapsing.

There was something in that link about how to cut little slits into it to get it to bend properly.


If I could just find the material Crimson sky used I have been all over the net looking for plastic 'U' channel for the tracks but I don't know the size to get

Don't expect to get these new, try looking around for something else that will do the job.


Also I can't find plastic tubing that small to put the hinge wire through

Try the local Hobby/Art store.

-Dave

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks DaveW
I will look at the hobby store and try to recycle anything that I can think of to make this work.

I'm determined to do it I just might have to wait until the stars align themselves in my favor to get that Light bulb over the head Idea effect.
Then it might just work! he he :)

[Wannabeamodder]

I started this thread with an improper title it sounded like I was giving instruction's on how to make the blast door! for that I am sorry.

Update: I have found some of the items needed and will attempt to fabricate the Linear actuator If I am successful then I will move on to the blast door.

Anyone who has tried to do this please feel free to offer input because I need all the help I can get.

Thanks
Charles

[DaveW]

Good luck man!

-Dave

[Crimson Sky]

the U chanel was made by FIRST cutting a "J" shape from sytrene plastic. then I just glued sides on the "J" to create a channel. it is not one solid piece, each channel is 3 pieces. You would not be able to get a smooth curve if it were one U channel, even by heating and bending. it would always distort.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/projects/doom3/blast_door-(19).jpg

[Crimson Sky]

the door itself was fashioned after a garage door. It is simply individual panels hinged on the ends with steel pins.

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/projects/doom3/lcd_module_finishing-(15).jpg

[Crimson Sky]

Here are suppliers of some of the plastic shapes I use:

Evergreen Scale Models (http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/)

Plastruct (http://www.plastruct.com/)

US Plastics (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=76&product%5Fid=3008)

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Crimson

I almost have the actuator fabricated it's as close to yours as I could get working from Pictures.

Some measurements of the main guide rail would be nice I think I have mine a little long! Also the length of the inside piece that slides in the main guide rail.

Also I can't figure out how the spring is mounted on the inside piece that slides in the main guide rail.

And last and most important how did you wire up the motor so it would stop and reverse at the end of it's travel I know that reversing the wires will make it reverse also what voltage do I use for the motor.

As for the door Thank you for clearing up a big mystery about those guide rails I have racked my brain tring to figure out how to bend those sweeping 90 degree bends.

Also for the door I almost have the hinges figured out I may need your help on those.

Love your work this is the first time I have tried to do something like this and I am enjoying it.

Charles

[simon275]

And last and most important how did you wire up the motor so it would stop and reverse at the end of it's travel I know that reversing the wires will make it reverse also what voltage do I use for the motor.

As for the door Thank you for clearing up a big mystery about those guide rails I have racked my brain tring to figure out how to bend those sweeping 90degree bends.



Try using a stepping motor. You can buy a computer controlled one from jaycar.

Here (http://www.jaycar.com/productView.asp?ID=KV3594&CATID=25&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=432)

You can control the motors direction and speed from your PC to.

You have to assemble the kit yourself so you need to be handy with a solder iron or has a friend who has the skills and some time. This is one of the cheapest ones out there.

[Crimson Sky]

keep in mind that every single moving part of the mechanism I made has screws for making micro adjustments. there is no other way to assemble this except to include the ability to make the parts mesh perfectly. You'll need a drill press for making precision parts, as well as a tap and die set.


http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/projects/doom3/linear_actuatotor-(24).jpg

[Wannabeamodder]

Crimson what kind of glue did you use to glue the tray gear strip to the aluminum?

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

I first glued the CD gear strip to a thick piece of .80 gauge styrene with cyanoacrylate (superglue), then as you can see, it was screwed to the aluminum U channel

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Crimson from the pictures I thought it was glued directly to the aluminum.

One question about the motor operation how did you wire it up to a switch and what kind of switch I'm guessing a DPDT pushbutton type switch.
How did you make it stop at the end of it's travel, did you use a limit switch?
Or just manualy turn it off?

Also what thickness of styrene do I need to buy for the rails and blast door?

Thanks
Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Well here it is the linear actuator! It's not as purdy as Crimson's but it works! Still have some fine tuning to do and the mount to make but at least I'm this far!

Here are some still pictures .

I have it temporarily mounted to a wood block for testing.
As you can see I had no styrene to mount the side gear strip to so I cut a piece of the cdrom drawer and glued it to that worked good!
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/67/dsc00801yt6.jpg

Here in this side view you can see where it differs from Crimson's
I could not figure out the end spring he used so I made my own.
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/1209/dsc00802im1.jpg

This is a back view pretty ugly huh I still have some cutting to do to
make it more tidy looking. Also I installed slides on the under side to give the whole assembly more stability.
http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/9199/dsc00803pl3.jpg

In this close up you can see where my gear assembly differs greatly from Crimson's! I could not find a cdrom with the same final drive gear as he used so I had to make do. I used the plastic part of the cdrom where these gears mounted to make it easier to get them in place. I put a very small bolt through the center gear and fastened it with small jam nut's. This let the whole assembly pivot to make setting the gear's position easier.

http://img54.imageshack.us/img54/5581/dsc00804od6.jpg




Here is a Video of it in action.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8305826632469626407

[Crimson Sky]

LMAO...thats great man..nice work. I commend you for taking on this project. now whats in store for the rest of the mod???

[DaJe]

Everytime I open my disc drive, I think of you.

[DaveW]

+Rep! Well done dude, so many people have tried this and failed, it's great to see someone finally succeed!

:D

-Dave

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks guys for all the nice comments.:)
It was a booger to fabricate! Everything was trial and error but if it had not been for Crimson's pic's I would not have even known this was possible or where to start! As for the rest of the mod I am planning on putting an lcd screen where the drive bays are and having the blast door raise and lower (hopefully).
I still have to make the door I have looked at the site that Crimson uses to buy styrene but can't decide on the thickness to order! Crimson what thickness of styrene do I need for the door and rails?

I just hope I have room to mount the actuator I may have to orient it different but that will also be trial and error.
I had originaly planned on building 2 of these for I am building twin systems for me and my son but that will depend on wether I get this first one to work.
It will be my son's sixth system. I usualy get his hand me down's but this time we will both be equal with Identical systems.
My son has been building and working on system's by himself and with me since he was in grade school and is quite knowledgable. He has helped me a great deal in the making of this project. In fact he is probably going to tackle the other actuator himself! Needless to say I am very proud of his abilities! :)


The spec's for the systems are as follows everything listed I have purchased two of (the ones with * have yet to be purchased).

NZXT Nemisis elite case (Silver)
Thermaltake Toughpower 700w modular power supply
MSI K9A PLatinum Socket AM2 Radeon Xpress 3200 motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ 2.6ghz
Samsung DVDRW/DVD+-R writer with Lightscribe
52 in one media card reader
Logitech mx518 optical gaming mouse
Saitek Eclipse II Illuminated Keyboard
2GB DDR2 PC6400 ram (not sure which brand to get yet)*
ATI R600 video card (whenever it finally comes out! XP)*
SATAII HDDs (still deciding what make/model/size to get)*
Windows Vista Ultimate *

Here are some pics of the case.
These pics really don't do this case justice!
I guess you are wondering why I would want a blast door behind the main door. I thought it would look cool, no one would know the lcd screen is there until you open the blast door!


This was the best looking (In my opinon) non modded case I could find. I bought these before I decided to attempt this mod had I known earlier I might have went with another case.

http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/740/case1kr3.jpg

I tried to brighten this pic in photoshop but it still does not show off the chrome metal (At least I think it's metal) shield on the front I had thought of carving something in this shield but am afraid of messing it up! Though I am quickly learning if you want to be a modder fear has to go! Just be sure of what you want and go for it! Can I get a Amen! And what ever you screw up bondo will fix lol.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2346/casejd6.jpg

Also as you can see from this pic the temp \fan speed lcd on the top will go well with the lcd screen in the drive bays and it also can be hidden.

http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/9713/case2bt2.jpg

In this pic you can see where I plan to mount the lcd screen.
Any suggestions on this will be appreciated.

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6888/case3cy0.jpg




The only other thing I've modded was a toy gattling gun. It was my son's when he was little and I was going to throw it away, but I wondered if I could get it to run off a 12v pc molex. After experimenting and playing around with it, I got it to work! Instead of having just a stationary gun mounted on top of a PC, however, I went one step further and made it pan and tilt! Here is a couple of pics of it, I know it's off topic but I wanted to share these.


http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/4052/gz4vu0.jpg


The barrel rotates and makes a shooting sound, which is powered by a PC molex connector header I made that mounts into an empty expansion slot. It has pan and tilt servos that will let it move as you move a joystick. The servos are powered by six 1.5volt batteries, and the the interface is through the serial port.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/6746/gz20mu5.jpg

I am glad I did not trash this thing because they quit making them!

Thank you for letting me share these I promise not to go off topic again.

I need to also mention that without my son's help I would not have been able to post these pics and there would be several grammatical errors! Thanks son!

Charles , aka Wannabeamodder

[b4i7]

dang...thats nice....you oughta theme the case with the gun!

youve earned a +1rep from me

[Crimson Sky]

I would buld the LCD/door as one single unit that is fitted for the drive bay area. create quick connect plugs (from fan connectors) for power/switching so you can easily remove this unit for troubleshooting and adjustments. Every single part of the Doom3 mod is built into removable modules. Don't build yourself into a corner where parts are hard to access.

As an FYI, I'm running the actuator motor on 12v, not 5v. I wanted a bit more speed and torque so it doesnt get hung up--plus its more dramatic when it opens and slams shut quickly IMO.

When you build the sliding door, use white lithium grease to lubricate the tracks. anything petroleum based will eat the plastics. use this on the aluminum actuator and all the gears too.

As for the thickness of plastics I use, I like to keep a whole range in the shop---its cheap enough material to get a bunch of them. I use all sizes from .020-.080. If you have a hobby shop near you, ask if they carry Plastruct or Evergreen styrene sheets. they are 8"x10" usually. If not, get a bunch of sizes at US Plastics and have them on hand for future projects.

I didnt use a limiter switch at the ends of the actuator travel--the springs in the channel basically create a mechanical one, preventing the gears from stripping while the tension of the springs keeps the teeth engaged at both ends.

Looks great so far, you should be proud of what you've done already!

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Crimson:

Those are some very good suggestion's and I will be doing just that!
The door hinges are a bit of a mystery looking at the pictures.
Could you possibly give me a play by play on how these were constructed?

Also thanks for the voltage you used for the motor I wasn't sure if it would take 12volts in the movie I am using a 9 volt battery to make it work.

Also as for the mechanical limiter doesn't the motor keep spinning after the sliding mechanism stops?
That's what I was afraid of the gears getting jammed and burning up the motor.

Thanks again for all the help, :D

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

The gears are made from Delrin, a very tough plastic that is not prone to stripping easily. The motor wont burn up if its only engaged for a short time at the end of travel. You can also use a potentiometer to adjust 12v to something lower if you like. Just make sure the POT is rated to handle the amps of the power supply 12v rail.

I'll see if I can whip up a few pics of the door in SketchUp

[Crimson Sky]

Very very simple using Plastruct Styrene tubing and stock plastic sheets. Logicaly, each panel can NOT be wider than the total radius of the curve in the J track that you make or it will jam up. I used thick steel sewing pins for the hing pins--a dab of glue on each head.


http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/misc/blast door.jpg

[Wannabeamodder]

Well just knock me over with a feather!

The door hinges make perfect sense now!

I was looking at parts is 1/8 in O.D. tubing big enough or too big?
How about 1/8 in thick styrene for the door panels?

Thanks Crimson :)

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

yeah that tubing and sheet stock sopunds about right. Get yourself some ZAP! medium thickness superglue and accelerator spray to assemble. Make this whole assembly as strong as possible, dont scrimp on the glue, but do it neatly. this door will take a mechanical beating, remember.

[Wannabeamodder]

Problem all the styrene sheets I have looked at are listed in thickness rangeing from .040 thick, .060 thick, .080 thick , .100 thick , 1.25 thick, ect.

I never was good at math does any of these translate into 1/8 in thick?

Charles

[tybrenis]

0.125 is 1/8".

Also, great job with everything so far, it's looking great! It's not an easy thing to do, and you did it well.

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks tybrenis for the info and the nice comments!:)

Charles,aka Wannabeamodder

[DaveW]

Why the hell did you call yourself wannabeamodder? You're a modder man, wear your title with pride.

:D

+rep again for the gatling case. NICE.

-Dave

[Wannabeamodder]

Re:Why the hell did you call yourself wannabeamodder? You're a modder man, wear your title with pride.

Cause Ive wanted to be a modder for a long time but was just too lazy to commit to it.

Charles ( can't quite yet profess to being a modder ) , aka Wannabeamodder

But I'm Learning thanks to you guys! :glasses:

[Crimson Sky]

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/misc/blast-door2.jpg

[Wannabeamodder]

Great mockup sketch Crimson and thanks for mentioning sketchup in one of your posts.
I got it and am having a great time learning to use it!
It really helps you to visualize what you are trying to do.
I am trying to find a vendor that sells 0.125 thick styrene in smaller sheets I really don't need a 4x8 sheet and can't imagine what the shipping would be does anyone know if Hobby Lobby carries this?

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

OK ordering parts but when it comes to the glue I'm stuck. lol :)

Crimson said to use ZAP! medium thickness superglue and accelerator spray.

Well I have come up on dozens of zap glues this is the one I think he means please correct me if I am wrong as I do not want to order the wrong thing.

SHEET ZAP
VERY HIGH VISCOSITY FORMULA
SUPER EXTRA THICK
ALLOWS PART POSITIONING FOR APPROXIMATELY 30 TO 40 SECONDS
CURES IN 90 SECONDS
USE ZIP KICKER TO ACCELERATE CURE TIME

Uses:

SHEET ZAP Is a specialty CA adhesive developed specifically for the hobby industry. The thick formula (somewhere between SLO ZAP and ZAP GEL) and slow cure time are perfect for sheeting wings or planking fuselages. Boat modelers will like this glue too. The thicker formula allows you to apply a thin bead right on top of ribs or formers as small as 1/16 inch thick without running over the edges. The slow cure time means you can apply it over the entire wing or fuselage section and have plenty of time to position the sheeting. This is a specialty glue and mostly used in modeling, wood working, antique furniture repair shops will like the extra working time.



Or should I get:

Plasti-ZAP CA++
MEDIUM VISCOSITY FORMULA
CURES CLEAN AND CLEAR
WILL NOT ATACK PAINT
WORKS ON MOST PLASTIC AND VINYL
NON-FLAMMABLE
NON-SNIFFABLE


Uses:

PLASTI ZAP CA++ Is a specialty CA adhesive developed for use on plastic and vinyl items. Most plastic modeling projects can be assembled with PLASTI ZAP CA++ and very small amounts of ZIP KICKER.The special formula in PLASTI ZAP CA++ allows it to screen out any mold release agents resulting in a permanent bond in 15 to 30 seconds.The joint can be filed and sanded in a minute or so, allowing extra fast assembly.

Helpful Hints:

Apply small drops of PLASTI ZAP CA++ to one surface only then mate the parts.For large or long seams apply small drops 1/4 to 1/2 inches apart, one side only, along the entire seam, then join parts. Be careful to keep your fingers away from the glued joints until cured, this glue will bond your skin instantly to your model.For bonding chrome parts, scrape the chrome off of the bonding areas then apply the glue to one side only.If you want to use ZIP KICKER, apply very small amounts with a fine brush or tooth pick.You do not need to apply kicker to the entire joint.For critical applications test sample joints for designed strength requirements.

If anyone can steer me in the right direction I would appreciate it oh and by the way I will be working with styrene.

Thanks
Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

I would like to show off my first time using sketchup!
I hope these pictures of the linear actuator in differant stages of assembly will help anyone else who may want to build one of these.

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4373/linearactuator1lu5.jpg


http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5740/linearactuator2yt7.jpg


http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5080/linearactuator3ab4.jpg


http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6493/linearactuator4vr3.jpg


http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3554/linearactuator5ih9.jpg


http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/2742/linearactuator6ca2.jpg


http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/3489/linearactuator7aj6.jpg


http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9317/linearactuator8ut0.jpg


http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/5055/linearactuator9sh6.jpg


http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/4051/linearactuator10iu9.jpg


http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/4008/linearactuator11dp3.jpg


http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/129/linearactuator12md5.jpg


http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/729/linearactuator13ja1.jpg


http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2733/linearactuator14ql2.jpg


http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/1957/linearactuator15we0.jpg


http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/2174/linearactuator16ut2.jpg


http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/312/linearactuator17dc4.jpg


http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4972/linearactuator18mi1.jpg


http://img488.imageshack.us/img488/2763/linearactuator19yn0.jpg

http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/9311/linearactuator20om8.jpg


http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/3117/linearactuator21ca4.jpg


Thank you for letting me share these.
Sketchup is one nice little program but I do wish the X Y Z axis control was easier.
Charles

[tybrenis]

First time using sketchup... ha. I don't believe it.

Those are some great models you've made. As for the Zap glue, really any poylstyrene solvent glue will work, Zap is just a good brand name. The first one sounds easy to use imho. I personally just use pure methylene chloride to glue polystyrene.

[simon275]

Wow nice work. You really have gone and done it so many have asked but not actually gone with it.

[DaveW]

+Rep for positive contributions, good sketchup work too!

-Dave

[Crimson Sky]

hells yeah + rep

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks for all the positive feedback and yes this is my first time using sketchup!
I can't take credit for the round gears, the springs and the nut's but the rest was made by me!
Awesome program! Simple to learn really helps you visualize what you want to do!
I usualy draw what i'm trying to do in microsoft paint! I have done some pretty cool drawings with paint but it is much harder.

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Ok now we are in bidness!
My parts have arrived all but the glue but it will be awhile before I start glueing.

The 1/8 thick size is perfect for the blast door and the housing it is high impact styrene so it should be sturdy.

Now the main thing I am worried about is cutting and glueing.

The cutting part I think I can handle but the glueing part well I usually make a mess when I try to glue something.:(

Anyone have tips on glueing styrene without making a mess?

Also both my lcd screens have been shipped and should arrive any day now.
That's when the main work will begin I plan on taking a lot of pics I hope you guys don't mind me posting them.

Thanks for all the help thus far and for the future help I will need to complete this. :)

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

This is my Idea for the blast door assembly,
I really would like your opinion as to if you think it will work or not.

This is the front the door tracks are not how I plan to make them I had to borrow these from an image.
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/4944/assembly1di5.jpg

Here I am using the drive rails and will be able to remove the entire assembly if needed for repairs.
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/7977/assembly2zg0.jpg

The back will remain open for cooling purposes.
http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/803/assembly3bs6.jpg

Top view.
http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/923/assembly4qk4.jpg

Another angle
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7040/assembly5xw6.jpg

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

Now the main thing I am worried about is cutting and glueing.

The cutting part I think I can handle but the glueing part well I usually make a mess when I try to glue something.:(

Anyone have tips on glueing styrene without making a mess?

I stock up on the nozzle adaptors (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/338897.asp)that allow small ammounts of glue to be dispensed without a mess

[SgtM]

I don't know how I missed this, but I just wanted to say, keep up the good work. I can't wait to see how this turns out! +rep

[GT40_GearHead]

congrats for the feature!

[DaveW]

Yeah, congrats on the feature. Definitely deserved it. Great work!

-Dave

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks guys I am having a blast doing this and will continue to keep you posted.
I'm really new at posting so I need to know one thing should I continue this thread or start another as this one is getting kinda big?
At one point I thought it might be a dead thread.:)

Great Idea Crimson I will order some of those applicator tips.

I never thought I would have so much trouble making the second Linear actuator but all cd roms are not created equal I cannot find one with the same or similar gear setup!
And that has me stuck I guess I'll hit the PC shops and see if they have any dead cdroms they want to get rid of!

Yes the Linear Actuator's twin brother is almost done except for the gear setup.

Why another one?
I am making twin systems one for me and one for my son ain't I a good dad!
It's like only his sixth system we have built but first time modding (other than the gattling gun).
I often wondered why you guys mod cases now I know It's fun!!!!!:D

OMG I just figured out what you guys meant by feature, I'm Honored :D

Charles

[FyreKnight]

Grats on the feature!! Excellent work on the actuator assembly, and awesome models in sketchup. I have to agree with Dave, you're a modder man... stand with pride!

Oh .. and this thread ain't big yet!! Heck mine's like 12 pages already and it's nowhere near big (or done) yet. :P

I'll look forward to watching this progress, you've definitely got the knack for this stuff. :)

Peace ... and +rep of course.

FyreKnight

[b4i7]

dang...this is turnin out nice....im gonna have to try this....ive thought about it...just never did

[Crimson Sky]

I never thought I would have so much trouble making the second Linear actuator but all cd roms are not created equal I cannot find one with the same or similar gear setup!
And that has me stuck I guess I'll hit the PC shops and see if they have any dead cdroms they want to get rid of!



I grabbed up a box of 8 CDROM drives on ebay for $4.00 + $3.95 shipping

[Wannabeamodder]

I have a bid in for 6 used cdroms on ebay if I win I just hope they don't all have the same gear setup as the 5 dead ones I gutted but could not use.


Charles

PS I won the auction for the drives perhaps one of them will contain the proper gears

[Wannabeamodder]

In this post I will point out some things for those wishing to build the linear actuator.

First Credit must be given where it is due!

This isn't my Idea it was first dreamed up and fabricated by Crimson Sky for the Doom 3 Project mars city, If you are new to this forum and have not checked out this case mod do so it is awesome!

As all of you know the linear actuator is made from the drawer mechanism of a cd rom or dvd rom drive.

You probably are thinking "I got and old cd rom laying in the corner I will build this".
It's not that simple all cd rom drawer mechanism's are not created equal!

Here are some things to look for before you ever start buchering the drive.

Holding the drive door facing you open it with a paper clip inserted into the little hole in the front ( for those of you who did not know what the hole was for thats what it's for)
If you cannot find the hole then you probably have a drive with a hinged door in that case pull open the hinged door there will be a slot in the bottom part of the inner tray which is where the paper clip should be put.
Some drives with hinged doors have no slot and do not need to be opened with a paper clip just pull on the inner tray and it should come out.

Now after the tray is out look underneath this is what you are looking for.

You want to see a wide gear strip preferable on the right side but the left side will do as long as it's wide.
If the srtip is very narrow this won't do you can try it but it does not give much room for adjusting the final drive gear on the actuator.

Look at the teeth on this gear strip I prefer the teeth to be coarse not fine toothed.

Also look at the gear setup some drives have a very skinny final drive gear especially the ones with the skinny gear strip. Some drives you have to open up in order to see the gear setup some you don't.

Some drive door mechanism's are belt driven this won't do but you may be able to still use the motor and the intermediate gear and final drive gear if it is the right size.

It's hard to find the perfect combination of parts so you may have to get some used or dead cd rom drives preferably differant brand names and models and use a combination of parts from several.
Or you may get lucky as I did and have a drive that all components were perfect just begging to be used!
But luck ran out I butcherd 5 more drives and only found a few things I might be able to use for the second actuator I'm building.

So bottom line open the door check out the gear strip if it's skinny save yourself the trouble of tearing into it unless there are other goodies you can use.


Hope this helps
Charles

P.S. The rubber stop on the end of the actuator was part of the cdrom as well most cdroms have 4 these.

[Wannabeamodder]

Update time !
Here is the progress thus far I kinda deviated from the sketchup Idea because of unforeseen problems I ran into.
Anyway the following pics will show you the route I took!
Some may call it jury rigging I call it recycling.;)

First we had to have some more victims to sacrifice for the second actuator ,count on ebay to provide!
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/2906/dsc0080913ed.jpg

The three on the right do not have the right gearing so they will be spared!
One of these guys on the left is going to take one for the team thus sparing the other two!
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/7461/dsc008103uj.jpg

Here you see my lcd screens,one for this system and one for the other system.
http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/583/dsc008114iu.jpg

The front of the lcd screens with their protective cover still on.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/49/dsc008122zg.jpg

The lcd screen out of it's packaging as you can see the ears on the side have been bent 90 degrees in order to mount the screen onto the cdrom shell.What better way to make something fit in a drive bay than to utilize something that was meant for just that! Re-cycling :banana:
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8355/dsc008137yh.jpg

In this veiw you see the drive rails must be moved forward in order for the screen to be set back farther than a cdrom, this allows for room for the blast door! The rails must also be lowered since the drive shell is upside down!This was a booger to get just right and took many trys but we finally got it!:)
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/5413/dsc008142vk.jpg

My first attempt at relocating the drive rails was unsucessful! Good thing I had many more of these! I tossed this one and started over.:D
http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/3224/dsc008153wp.jpg

In this pic you see the drive installed without the screen this was a test fit and was also the one that had to be scrapped the drive rail on one side did not align with the other side it was off just enough to make the drive shell crooked! :down:
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/3097/dsc008164ht.jpg

New victim this time I mounted the screen first! The aggravating thing about this screen is the ears on the sides are not the same! one side they are at the top and bottom the other side they are about one inch from the top and bottom!
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/3708/dsc008170ai.jpg

This is the same pic just a differant angle.
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/2773/dsc008184zy.jpg

This is also the same pic but a veiw of the other side ! See the differance in where the ears are located.
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/2276/dsc008197ho.jpg

And yet another veiw.
http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/2188/dsc008202oa.jpg

This is one of many test fits as adjustments had to be made both to the unit and to the case.
http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/5607/dsc008215bo.jpg

And these next two pics are a look inside with the unit installed for a test fit.
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/2213/dsc008229cf.jpg

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6685/dsc008238sr.jpg

These next two pics are test fits with the case front bezel on as you can see the screen sets back just enough to allow for the blast door and guide rails!
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/8087/dsc008248ww.jpg

Keeping the protective cover on the screen while measureing for the blast door rails will insure that there is sufficient room between the screen and blast door during operation!
http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/6922/dsc008252ly.jpg

Continued in the next post.
Charles

[ReignInPain]

Looks pretty sweet so far! Looking forward to seeing a final result!

[Wannabeamodder]

Continued:

Here is my second ( and successful ) attempt at relocating the drive rails!:)
As you can see by the hole on the end the screen was originaly going to be on that end but I changed it because I was going to put nut's on the inside so I drilled these holes larger than my tap size! Then discovered that the ears on the screen are not big enough to allow room for nuts! So I had to switch ends and drill and tap new holes!
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/6185/dsc008267ce.jpg

With the drive rail waiting to be installed.
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8066/dsc008275dr.jpg

In this fuzzy pic you can see I've added braces to keep the screen stationary and to be able to withstand installation and removal. I used a small carpenters square to insure that the screen was at a 90 degree angle.
http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/4476/dsc008283vl.jpg

Here is a better angle of the braces ( better pic too ) :)
http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/6838/dsc008290fu.jpg

And yet another angle of the assembled unit with protective cover removed from screen!
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/7741/dsc008303xs.jpg

This is a pic of the case and unit before installation.
http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/2072/dsc008319ul.jpg

The unit installed with protective cover removed from screen.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2527/dsc008328sg.jpg

Here the unit is installed with the case front bezel on and the main door open.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7529/dsc008331ey.jpg

Here the unit is installed with the case front bezel on and the main door closed.
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/6308/dsc008349km.jpg


Sorry for such a huge post there is more to come so stay tuned!

Charles, (Mightbeamodder) aka Wannabeamodder

[DaveW]

Everything you're doing looks totally ace.

But the door on that case...hmm...i think it hides your good work. It possibly be improved...

-Dave

[jdbnsn]

I am loving this thing, it's admittedly about as fun as watching the Doom3 blastdoor come to life. I've wanted to make something like this ever since I first saw Crimson's worklog, and you are doing a bang-up job at putting it together. Very impressive!

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks guys:



But the door on that case...hmm...i think it hides your good work. It possibly be improved...

-Dave

What I am going for here is stealthiness.
No one will Know the lcd is there until I open the blast door.
I think it will be cool! 8)

But the main reason is I had already bought this case before I
decided to tackle this it's the old put the cart before the horse kinda thing! ;)

Charles

[LiTHiUM0XiD3]

i agree with dave heh that case door has got to go heh
+ rep fer da awsome work :D

[GT40_GearHead]

***** work man

[Wannabeamodder]

i agree with dave heh that case door has got to go heh
:D

Nope the case door stays it's one of my favorite parts of the case!:banana:

Wait for the end results.

Charles

[LiTHiUM0XiD3]

lolz aight lets see ur magic heh

[Wannabeamodder]

Well not much to say in this update just that I am planning on cutting the styrene for the "J" shaped tracks for the door this weekend!

Anyone with tips on how to do this correctly feel free to comment.

Thanks for all the support
Charles

[Crimson Sky]

Have to agree that the case door is pretty fugly--unles of course you have plans to hack it up that your not tellin' us? ;)

[.Maleficus.]

Um, how did I miss this????

Damn good work dude, keep it up! +rep

[Wannabeamodder]

Well it seems like most folks agree the case door hurts the mod!
But that's one of the reasons I call myself Wannabeamodder right now I am working on something that is apart from the case.

I have no ideas whrn it comes to the actual case, I have thought about it but no vision comes to mind.

I guess I lack creativity when it comes to trying to think up an Idea to make the door either go or improve it.

The best I can do and I don't even have it worked out and don't know if I can do it is make the case door open automaticaly then the blast door.

I am open to suggestions concerning the door.:)

Charles

[DaveW]

I am open to suggestions concerning the door.

Don't let us make your mind up. It wouldn't be modding if we told you what to do. If you like the door, then keep the door. :) We might not like it, but it's your mod.

-Dave

[Wannabeamodder]

Don't let us make your mind up. It wouldn't be modding if we told you what to do. If you like the door, then keep the door. :) We might not like it, but it's your mod.

-Dave


Thanks DaveW

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

The cutting part I think I can handle

Charles

I take back this statement from an earlier post.

I am having all kinds of problems cutting straight pieces of styrene!

Help please :)

Crimson Sky if your out there tell me the secret "I vill not let eet fall into ze ands of zee enemy" :)

Charles

[tybrenis]

For thinner polystyrene (1/8" and smaller) I simply use a straight edge and a knife to score the plastic. Then, snap it along the edge. You can also cut it on a table saw, with a dremel, jigsaw, router, really anything. If it's thin enough you can even use scissors.

[Reyer]

do work

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Tybrenis

I'm using 1/8 inch styrene but after the scoring especially small strips like 3/8 inch wide I am having trouble snapping it.

Also I can't seem to make a continuous score line without leaning the knife at some point and that makes an edge thats not square.

I thought about cutting it with a dremmel but read something about the smoke not being good to breathe.

I also tried gluing and let me tell you Crimson was right when he said to use Zip kicker along with Zap glue it makes the gluing much faster and easier!

I have one side of the track channel assembled but it's ugly due to cutting mistakes.


Charles

[Mach]

Take a look at the evergreen website. They make styrene in all sorts of sizes.

http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/Strips.htm

[Crimson Sky]

1/8th inch is tremendously thick, far more than you would need for the rails. the magic of styrene is in its strength, even whil eusing thinner stock. .060 would have been the thickest I'd use for the flat "J" part of the rail, and .040 to make the curved side pieces. The material is cheap enough to get a bunch of dif types and experiment. a utility knife and straight edge is just about all I use for simple cuts. using a pair of pliers is a good idea on thin strips to help snap it. I put a pair of pliers on the grinder to remove the teeth on the jaws so it doesnt mar the styrene.

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Crimson I was using way too thick of styrene!

Thanks Mach I went to evergreens website but it looks like,
they don't have online ordering.And I'll bet there isn't a store near me that sells it.
I have called all the stores I can think of but when I say styrene they are like "whats that".

So can someone point me to a place I can order styrene in small sizes online.

I learned a valuble lesson today a drill bit will drill into a finger (Imagine that)
Hurt like hell too!

Oh well no pain no gain I guess.

As for progress I think I finally found a gear combination that will work for the second Linear actuator.:)

Thanks
Charles

[Airbozo]

...I put a pair of pliers on the grinder to remove the teeth on the jaws so it doesnt mar the styrene.

Great idea! I see why you da man!
They do make a similar product for glass that has a wide gripable area for snapping off small pieces and strips. Pretty much single purpose tool though since it is not as durable as a set of pliers.

[Wannabeamodder]

I finnaly found a hobby store near by that sells evergreen products!

I should have my styrene this weekend then I can get started again.

In the mean time I shall take my grinder to an old pair of pliers! :)

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Well I have my styrene!

It is a lot easier to cut than the 1/8 inch!

Starting to bulid door panels fingers covered with glue:down:
This isn't as easy as I thought it would be but we are getting somewhere!

I have finished the final drive gear assembly for the second Linear acuator and I probably will change the first actuator to this gear setup as it works more smoothly Pics soon! hang in there.

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Very busy weekend but progress has been made!
First here are some pics of the second actuator. :)

No this isn't the original actuator this is the 2nd and improved version.

http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/5801/dsc00841xa3.jpg


This gear setup works more smoothly than the original one I made!
I most likley will change it to this gear setup.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/624/dsc00842cs5.jpg

Here are three short videos so you can see the differance.

The first actuator
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8305826632469626407

The New Improved 2nd actuator.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-9189706714217200333

The above video was kinda too dark this one is better.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=906937349219122814

Now on to the door tracks:
These were not easy to fabricate! After many failed attempts I let my son take over on these and he did a good job! :)

As you see the door track "J" is drawn out on the styrene.
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/1801/dsc00840gk8.jpg

Here are the two door track "J's" cut out.
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/6597/dsc00843qw2.jpg

We used a mitre box to hold the "J" to make gluing the sides easier.
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/1253/dsc00847yq2.jpg

One down one to go!
http://img386.imageshack.us/img386/9576/dsc00848kp1.jpg

A closer look at the first track assembly.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/7297/dsc00849wv8.jpg

The two finished tracks
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/31/dsc00851um8.jpg

Next weekend we start to fabricate the doors and install the door tracks so stay tuned I can't wait to see what happens! :banana:

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Well what a busy day I am tired but progress has been made on the door track installation as the pics below will show.

We start by making a support bracket for the tracks.
http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/5767/dsc00854nc0.jpg

The two completed brackets.
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/5248/dsc00855sg6.jpg

The brackets installed.
http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/2066/dsc00856sq1.jpg

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/7707/dsc00857fv9.jpg

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/9089/dsc00858tp3.jpg

http://img71.imageshack.us/img71/5271/dsc00859kt4.jpg

http://img70.imageshack.us/img70/7029/dsc00860yi6.jpg

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/4770/dsc00861ab8.jpg

Next week I plan on working on the blast door it is partialy complete but I ran out of styrene and the store was out too.
I also have some samples of heavy sewing pins for the hinges coming through the mail after I choose the correct size I will order these.
I also plan on bracing the tracks better.

So far so good the real fun is nearing!

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Well I have made a run to the hobby store and have more supplies but I can't seem to get anything done this weekend!:(
I hope to get the door assembled by next weekend if I get my heavy sewing pins by then. (These are for the hinges on the door)
This place I found online www.steinlaufandstoller.com sent me samples so I could find the right size.
I selected #24 BANK Pins but when I went to order I have to by 1,200 of them online thats the minimum they sell.
So I went all over the place trying to find that size in a retail store,I didn't even get close!
So I will be buying 1,200 and I only need 50 :D
The price isn't bad $5.50 until they add handling and shipping and tax comes to $20.00 but I need them maybe I can sell the rest.LOL

BTW the #24 Bank Pins fit perfect in 3/32 styrene tubing with good pivot action which is what I am using for my door hinges.


Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

My heavy sewing pins have arrived and I plan on getting a lot done today!
The rail installation as seen in the previous post has been scrapped due to unforseen problems.
However I have come up with a new plan and will post pics soon.
The door panels and hinges are ready and waiting to be assembled.

Stay tuned!

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

I have a tip for ya...Cover the shank of the hinge pins in white lithium grease to make sure its all lubed up permanently as you're assembling the roll door. Just a dab of superglue on the head of the pin will secure it. The tracks also prevent the pin from falling out should the glue pop off. Grease the tracks as well after you've painted all the parts. I used Krylon Fusion paint.

Do not use anything else to lubricate styrene, especially petroleum products--it will melt the plastic in a short time. Keep your unpainted styrene out of direct sunlight. UV rays will break down the plastic in just a few hours of exposure. If it starts to yellow from UV, it becomes brittle.

also, no need to cut the pins short, leave about an inch long shank for stability. ;)

I just used heavy duty straight pins from a local sewing store (The Rag Shop). was $1.99 for 50. You don't want a tight fit on the pins inside the tubing. Styrene shrinks slightly over time. You want those pins fairly loose.

+Rep btw.

[SgtM]

congrats on getting featured. Lookin good so far.

[Wannabeamodder]

A lot of progress has been made! This is the new rail installation plan we decided to start over because of alignment problems and also the old way we tried wasn't very stable.
Thanks Crimson for the very good advice on the door hinge pins I had not even thought about lubricating the pins! Also thanks for the paint info I wasn't sure what to use now I'm not sure what color.;)

As you see by these pics the door hinges have been marked for cutting.
Also the door panels are coming along nicely the reason they are so long is I am making two doors the panels will be cut to length and assembled once the main assembly is complete

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3624/dsc00862lh0.jpg

Two door hinges complete many more to go!
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/6630/dsc00863hh6.jpg

Five door panels complete and 24 hinges complete these were all filed by hand to round off one end!
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7043/dsc00864cv3.jpg

A closer look at the hinges.
http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/6883/dsc00865dr1.jpg

More door panels marked and ready to be cut.
These were cut out of 0.60 styrene with a 0.40 metal roofing textured styrene piece glued on top this gave the door a metal look without scribing lines on it. Also the final product is 3/32 in thick which matches our styrene tubing size.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/4682/dsc00866bj8.jpg

45 hinges made several more door panels to go.
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2812/dsc00868dz5.jpg

Here you see 12 door panels complete and also our box of heavy sewing pins
# 24 Bank pins they fit the 3/32 tubing not too loose and not too tight and leave plenty of room for pivoting of the hinged door panels.
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/6903/dsc00869ac4.jpg

These two cd rom shells are Identical and should make the fabrication of the second assembly easier.
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8152/dsc00870wd4.jpg

This is the new walls that my tracks will be mounted to!
And also some braces to add stability.
The cut out area is where the Lcd screen will be.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8428/dsc00872yk3.jpg

This is how it will look when assembled it's a lot cleaner looking than the original idea.:)
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9089/dsc00873ga0.jpg

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/8743/dsc00874xz5.jpg

No thats not my hands mine are 30 years older and not as steady.
This is my son cutting styrene he has proven to be better at this than me so I let him cut all the big stuff.:banana:
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4808/dsc00875zb5.jpg

One major problem in aligning the lcd screen was the location of the "ears" on one side. The side with the ear at the bottom would not allow proper alignment I have fixed this my fabricating and installing a new bracket.
I would like to point out for anyone wanting to do the same that this was very teadious one slip and the lcd would have been ruined!
Therefore I made sure no components were in the location to be drilled and tapped. I also placed a piece of 1/8 inch styrene between the metal and the pcb and took my time drilling.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/5967/dsc00876bm7.jpg

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/6663/dsc00877bl5.jpg

Here you see the actuator has been mounted to a block of wood I did this by mounting a metal channel to the actuator then mounting that to the wood.
I also cut two side braces to give the mount a bigger foot print and to make it more stable.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/6765/dsc00878fx8.jpg

The assembled mount.
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/1671/dsc00879dv9.jpg

The completed mount covered with styrene.
http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/3206/dsc00880np2.jpg

Next weekend we hope to get the assembly started and maybe the door fabricated I can't cut the panels until I am sure of the size needed.
So stay tuned I can't wait to see what happens!

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

After a very busy weekend but a lot of progress has been made on the project!

The cdrom shell had to be modified to allow the lcd screen to be removed if needed. The cut away section lets the screen pass straight down without any components hitting. Also in this pic you see the floor of the cdrom shell complete with a brace to glue the protective wall to this wall will protect the lcd screen from the actuator.
http://img236.imageshack.us/img236/3024/dsc00881su0.jpg

Here you see the floor installed.
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8443/dsc00882bh7.jpg

This is the front and back walls of the enclosure.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/9639/dsc00883dy6.jpg

This is the side walls with the door tracks mounted.
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/4716/dsc00884tw5.jpg

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8496/dsc00885io5.jpg

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/8288/dsc00886sp2.jpg

Walls and floor installed in cdrom shell.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/9546/dsc00887ye8.jpg

Front wall installed The cut out area is to provide access to the buttons on the back of the lcd screen.
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/1856/dsc00888ls2.jpg

The hole to the lower right is to route the wires from the lcd screen.
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/4641/dsc00889gb9.jpg

This is a view from the back.
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/4366/dsc00890zr8.jpg

The front and back walls installed.
http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/2539/dsc00891uz6.jpg

http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/2792/dsc00892wv3.jpg

The actuator installed for a test fit.
http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/2876/dsc00893gk8.jpg

http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/3766/dsc00894ny0.jpg

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/1711/dsc00895bt8.jpg

Door assembly started.
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/1526/dsc00896rf3.jpg

Door assembly finished except for painting.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8766/dsc00897ci2.jpg

Nice and flexible just like we wanted!
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/1395/dsc00898ol6.jpg

http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/1258/dsc00899dx0.jpg

The door installed for a test fit looks pretty good!:D
http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/7715/dsc00900ra1.jpg

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/9603/dsc00901lt9.jpg

After much fine tuning and tweaking we got it to work the following link shows a video of it in action!
It goes kinda faster than I would like does anyone know if the motor can be slowed down without re-gearing it? Without loosing too much torque.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-123015488827266619

Sorry for posting so many pics any and all comments are welcomed.
Stay tuned Painting will most likely be next.

Charles

[Drew]

Damn that does go quick!

On this slow ass machine all I could do was hear the thump!

Couldn't see the motion at alll!

But it works, well done that man.

[jdbnsn]

Damn nice job dude!

[Crimson Sky]

Very nice!...Glad to see the design worked out so far!

[Mach]

You might try a PWM motor controller like this:

http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1742.html

I've got a couple of these and they're pretty easy to solder together.

[Wannabeamodder]

You might try a PWM motor controller like this:

http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1742.html

I've got a couple of these and they're pretty easy to solder together.

Thanks Mach one question though in order for the motor to turn on do you have to turn the knob on the pot? Or do you just set the pot to the speed you want and then use another switch like say a DPDT rocker type switch which was what I was planning on trying any way.
I want to use the IR board like Crimson used but am not sure I can assemble it.

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

Bidirectional DC Motor Speed Controller

This kit allows controlling the speed of a DC motor in both the forward and reverse direction. The range of control is from fully OFF to fully ON in both directions. The direction and speed is controlled using a single potentiometer. Turningthe pot in one direction causes the motor to start spinning. Turning the pot in the other direction causes the motor to spin in the opposite direction. The center position on thepot is OFF. This design avoids the need for a direction reversing switch and avoids mechanical and electrical stress by forcing a smooth transition from one direction to the other.


Only the pot controls the motor on this board. I'm sure a clever person could add switches to it, but I wouldnt. There are other controller boards out there that would suit your needs, just need to do a little digging. The kits are cheaper than the assembled boards--and some are sold as kits only. They are not difficult to put together, you just need a decent soldering iron.

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Crimson for the info on the Bi-directional speed controler I ordered two of them. :D

What do you think of my paint scheme Paint the Door Gray , and the rest of the assembly Black.?

Also can the door be painted assembled or will the paint cause it to stick together at the hinge joints?

I haven't glued the ends of the pins yet just in case I needed to disassemble it for painting.

And what about the insides of the tracks should they be painted or will it cause the door to not slide as well as it did before?


Charles

[Crimson Sky]

I would paint the door sections and track (inside and out) with Krylon Fusion paint and reassemble after it's dry. As long as you apply some lithium grease afterwards the paint won't prevent the parts from sticking.

[Mach]

Crimson is right, the pot controls the speed and direction. You would need to physically turn the knob to control direction and speed.

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Crimson and Mach
I will do as sugested and disassemble the door for painting.
As for the speed control board turning the knob to control the door will be ok I just hope that the assembled controller board is not too big so I can find a good place to mount it.
I don't suppose you would know if it comes with a knob?

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

It would be no problem at all to just attach long wires to the pot, then solder the opposite ends of teh wires to the board. This way you can put the pot/knob any where ya want on the case. ;)

[Crimson Sky]

Knobs are probably sold separately--You could even mount a small gear on the pot shaft and make a slider switch.

[Mach]

The one that I linked to is:

Board dimensions 3 5/8" x 1 5/8" with the heatsinks extending 1" above the board. Too big?

I did as Crimson suggested when I soldered mine together except I soldered a 3 way screw type terminal block where the pot is supposed to go.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1244.pdf

As far as knobs go, what are you looking for? I've got some new smallish ones from another project that look like silver stereo knobs. BTW, it doesn't come with a knob.

Mouser's got a ton of knobs of all shapes and sizes
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1502.pdf

[A_Campbell]

Would it be possible to make the same thing here only with the door panels being about fifteen inches long? Also, can you open the door while the PC is not powered on?

[Crimson Sky]

You can make the door any length you want; however there are a few things to consider. You'll need 15" overhead roll space just for the door plus the length of your gear arm. You are talking about at least 22" overhead travel depth to allow the door and mechanism to roll up completely. You will also need a more powerful motor and gear system than the CDROM components we used.

To answer your second question, you can draw 5V power from the PC while its not on using the standby power leads directly from the PSU.

[A_Campbell]

I must not have made it clear.

The width is about fifteen inches but the door only needs to cover about four inches in height. I'll try using Sketchup to show you what I mean.

[Crimson Sky]

You said 15" long... length implies height when you are talking about doors. And go and start your own thread regarding this please, so we don't hijack this one.

[Wannabeamodder]

Just an update:

I have the unit painted (Pics soon).
I also have my Bidirectional DC Motor Speed Controller assembled and will be testing it out soon.

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Just a quick update to let you guys know I'm still working on it.
I have been sick all week and have not felt like doing much.
I'm sitting back and watching my son make his version of the actuator which I am very impressed with! look for his topic soon along with pics.

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Well I thought I would let everyone know whats going on with the project.

First due to me looking at a picture of Crimsons final assembly wrong and thinking the actuator should be mounted the way I have it caused all kinds of problems!

This was not noticed until I tried to use the speed controller it just could not raise the door without being helped.

So I took a time out and looked over the photo's and discovered my mistake!
The actuator should be mounted horizontal not vertical as I had it.

I have since re-designed the way it mounts in my unit and it works great now!
I was also able to shorten the length of it and I needed to do that as it was very close to the power supply.

Pics Soon also a Video so bear with me I hope I have not let this topic die.

Thanks for all the great support
Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Ok here are the pics of the reworked actuator.
As you can see mthe actuator is now horizontaly mounted.

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/7500/dsc00919bv4.jpg


http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6563/dsc00920xu9.jpg

Here is the Bidirectional dc motor speed controller it was fun to assembly.
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/3502/dsc00921ds9.jpg

In this veiw you see the door fully raised and the actuator sticks out the back some but not as much as it did originaly this will be covered by a styrene box.
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1474/dsc00922wq0.jpg

I have a video but Google video is down I will post it later

Charles

[jdbnsn]

HELL OF A JOB! I can't believe someone besides "Old Man Crimson" pulled this off. ;) Mind if I ask, where did you pick up that DC controller?

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks man here is the link for the bi directional dc motor controller.
http://www.hobbyengineering.com/H1742.html


Be aware this is an un-assembled kit.
For those of you who have not assembled anything like this before, here are some tips.

The main things to know is identification of resitors by the color bands.
Also keep in mind resitors can be inserted either way but diodes and electrolitic capacitors cannot (it's the big black capacitor) be sure to get your positive and negative poles aligned correctly. The circuit board shows you wich way to place the diodes there is a black or grey band on one end of the diode this is represented by a white band on the pcb just orient the diodes in that direction.
Also be sure to identify the MOSFETS there are four two of each kind they must be positioned one each on each side of the heatsinks.

If you already know how to solder you shouldn't have any problems.

For anyone who wants to build this I recommend:

A good soldering iron with some degree of heat control
A lamp with magnifier in the center
Small gauge solder and desoldering tape.

If you need any further help just ask.



Here is the video I promised in the previous post.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7196731123562461186

Charles

[jdbnsn]

Haha, that is awesome!

I featured your blast door and linked to your you-tube vid on the front page, great work modder!

[DaveW]

I'd like to point out to everyone that this is a great example of good worklog practice. Big, clear photos, handy links, good explanations, the whole lot. +Rep dude.

-Dave

[Wannabeamodder]

:D :D :D

I went from thinking this topic was dead to this!
Thanks a million guys!

Charles

[Spacehonkey]

Just watched the video. Great work +Rep for proving that we to can follow in the foots of a modding god.:p

[Crimson Sky]

HELL OF A JOB! I can't believe someone besides "Old Man Crimson" pulled this off. ;) Mind if I ask, where did you pick up that DC controller?


It's a hella thing when you learn from the master ;) Great job on the box, man.

[Wannabeamodder]

Here is a video of the assemled unit installed in the case.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-961138287951384478

The only thing I need to work on is the ker-thunk it makes when closing some foam padding should help that.

I figured I had better post this as I am being upstaged by my son check out his new thread here (http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7860) :D

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Ok guys I have one issue with the by-directional dc motor controller it's the pot!
After raising or lowering the door it must be returned to the neutral or off position or else the motor is still on I have solved this by wireing up a toggle switch to turn the power to it on and off but this looks clunky to have to flip a switch, turn the pot then flip the switch again.
I have looked at a push button SPDT Pot does anyone know if that would work? Also they had a SPST one which do I need?

Thanks as always for all the help I have recieved and all the nice comments.

Charles

[Mach]

What about a return spring arrangement?

Like this
http://lh6.google.com/image/MachModAlbum/RjiMJqQDXmI/AAAAAAAAABk/m6kQVYme9Zg/s800/Untitled%20-%203.jpg

[DaveW]

Personally I would do this with a PIC micro controller and some sensors.

But, PIC Microcontrollers are my answer to everything. If you ever want a hand with making one, i'll gladly assist, but my schedule is packed for the next 2 months, so you might also want to PM CrazyBillyBob, who is another guy about here who knows a good thing or two about PICs.

If PIC's are a bit confusing, you can actually program them in C and convert it to Assembler. There's also a thing called the BASIC Stamp, which is very, very easy to learn but very limited in what it can do compared to the PIC.

Look em up on Wikipedia: they might make your door that bit more interesting. All you'd have to replace is your sensors, the motors etc. will essentially remain the same.

[Wannabeamodder]

MACH your Idea is something I may try it looks like it could work.
But I may try the pushbutton pot too.

DaveW I know absolutely nothing about PIC's (except photo's that is):)

But would like to learn if it's not too difficult the only programing I do is VB and VBA and I am an amateur at that.
I will research it and get back to you by the way thanks for the offer to help.

Thanks guys for the help I just wish I could think of a way to mod the rest of my case but when I think about it all I get is nuttin! dang it nuttin! you guys are so creative I envy you all! :banana:

Charles

[isunktheship]

When the door closes it sounds like it hits down hard, will you add some sort of rubber/padding at the bottom of where the door sits?

...This is a really minor thing, yay noise reduction!

[Wannabeamodder]

That's one of the idea's I am working on to solve that but I am also waiting to see how my son's build of the blast door turns out he is using a radicaly differant actuator and if it works better I may switch to his design. But if I can solve the ker-thunk I will stick with the one I built.
Part of the problem is the difficulty to control the motor speed with the bi-directional dc motor controler. You have to make very fine adjustments to the pot in order to slow the door down and it is difficult! I think it has to do with the motor having too much resistance and also running out of travel just as you get the speed right.

Thanks for your interest If you are planning on making one of these check out my sons build in the works in progress section Blast door Jr.

Charles

[Crimson Sky]

Thanks guys for the help I just wish I could think of a way to mod the rest of my case but when I think about it all I get is nuttin!

Charles


Since it's a garage/industrial type door, why not a NASCAR/racing/Monster Garage type theme?

[Wannabeamodder]

That's some good Idea's you have there Crimson thanks.

Charles

[Tale Gunner]

You and Crimson have some really great skills. Im really impressed (including your son) with your work. My son is just a tad to young to have him in the workshop but he is intrested in woodworking so there is hope on the horizon.

[Wannabeamodder]

Wow thanks for the nice comments from me and my son.
But really Crimson is the man around here a true inspiration to all of us!
If you are new to the forum check out his mods here
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6740
and you will see what I mean.

Charles

[Tale Gunner]

Wow thanks for the nice comments from me and my son.
But really Crimson is the man around here a true inspiration to all of us!
If you are new to the forum check out his mods here
http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6740
and you will see what I mean.

Charles

No Im not new :D Crimson has been watching me build my Cherry wood case.
http://thebestcasescenario.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6712

[Wannabeamodder]

Well I almost have everything to start assembling the two systems!
Here is an updated list of purchased hardware.

The spec's for the systems are as follows everything listed I have purchased two of (the ones with * have yet to be purchased).

NZXT Nemisis elite case (Silver)
Thermaltake Toughpower 700w modular power supply
MSI K9A PLatinum Socket AM2 Radeon Xpress 3200 motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ 2.6ghz
Samsung DVDRW/DVD+-R writer with Lightscribe
52 in one media card reader
Logitech mx518 optical gaming mouse
Saitek Eclipse II Illuminated Keyboard
8 GB DDR2 PC6400 ram (Kingston HyperX) (4 gigs per system)

Was going to go with the ATI R600 aka HD2900XT but with all the heating issues and power consumption we decided to not use it.
ATI R600 video card (whenever it finally comes out! XP)*

Instead we went with these ( One per system)
MSI RX8800 Ultra ( Factory Overclocked )
SATAII HDDs
2 seagate barracuda 160 gig (1 per system)
2 seagate barracuda 400 gig (1 per sytsem )
Windows Vista Ultimate *

The two blast doors are nearing completion so we should be able to start assembling the systems next weekend pics will be posted them.

Thanks
Charles

[Tale Gunner]

Well I almost have everything to start assembling the two systems!
Here is an updated list of purchased hardware.

The spec's for the systems are as follows everything listed I have purchased two of (the ones with * have yet to be purchased).

NZXT Nemisis elite case (Silver)
Thermaltake Toughpower 700w modular power supply
MSI K9A PLatinum Socket AM2 Radeon Xpress 3200 motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ 2.6ghz
Samsung DVDRW/DVD+-R writer with Lightscribe
52 in one media card reader
Logitech mx518 optical gaming mouse
Saitek Eclipse II Illuminated Keyboard
8 GB DDR2 PC6400 ram (Kingston HyperX) (4 gigs per system)

Was going to go with the ATI R600 aka HD2900XT but with all the heating issues and power consumption we decided to not use it.
ATI R600 video card (whenever it finally comes out! XP)*

Instead we went with these ( One per system)
MSI RX8800 Ultra ( Factory Overclocked )
SATAII HDDs
2 seagate barracuda 160 gig (1 per system)
2 seagate barracuda 400 gig (1 per sytsem )
Windows Vista Ultimate *

The two blast doors are nearing completion so we should be able to start assembling the systems next weekend pics will be posted them.

Thanks
Charles

Looks like a great system. I have the same CPU but I have 2 PNY 8800 GTX video cards with the baracuda drives (SATA). I went with the Asus mother board M2N32 SLI deluxe. Several years ago MSI and Abit went through a bout with bad caps and I had one of those boards. They fixed it free of charge but it took 4 weeks to get my system back. So I started going with Asus just because of that. My power supply is a 1000 watt Emermax Galaxy PS. I love Thermaltake products but at the time they did not have anything over 850 Watts (now that has changed). Good Luck looking foward to seeing the final pics on your system. :up: :up: :up:

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks Tale Gunner Ive been meaning to post on your thread I love your wood case really nice wood working skills you have there!
Looking forward to seeing the end results.

As for our systems we kinda put the cart brefore the horse so to speak, we should have waited and gotten the 1000 wt power supply and if I had known that the R600 would be a flop I too would have bought SLI MB's but with all that I have bought I cannot change the setup other than having the 8800 GTX Ultra in a crossfire MB I hope it works out ok.:D

Charles

[Tale Gunner]

Thanks Tale Gunner Ive been meaning to post on your thread I love your wood case really nice wood working skills you have there!
Looking forward to seeing the end results.

As for our systems we kinda put the cart brefore the horse so to speak, we should have waited and gotten the 1000 wt power supply and if I had known that the R600 would be a flop I too would have bought SLI MB's but with all that I have bought I cannot change the setup other than having the 8800 GTX Ultra in a crossfire MB I hope it works out ok.:D

Charles

Hey theres nothing wrong with your configuration. You will have a great rig there and I hope to see it working soon.

[Wannabeamodder]

Hey theres nothing wrong with your configuration. You will have a great rig there and I hope to see it working soon.


Thanks TG both rigs are now assembled!
I just have to mount my external switches for the blast doors and wire them up.

Charles

[Tale Gunner]

Still looking for an update there Wannabeamodder. Im looking forward to see what youve done with the door in comparison to Crimson Sky. You and your son both have exceptional talent.

[Wannabeamodder]

Thanks TG

My son will try to gets some pix posted next week I have not felt much like working on it this weekend.

My son still has to correct his door hinges they are too far apart and the light from the lcd screen shows through the cracks between the door panels.
It was something we did not think about happening.
But it is fixable.

Charles

[Tale Gunner]

Thanks TG

My son will try to gets some pix posted next week I have not felt much like working on it this weekend.

My son still has to correct his door hinges they are too far apart and the light from the lcd screen shows through the cracks between the door panels.
It was something we did not think about happening.
But it is fixable.

Charles

Everything is fixable with time, effort, patience, or money! Looking forward to the pics thank you.

[Wannabeamodder]

Update Time!

Here you see the inside of the system.
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/3875/dsc01031wh6.jpg

Here you see the 8800 Ultra video card
http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/5927/dsc01032jt7.jpg

Here you see the Zalman 9700 cpu cooler works great the cpu under load
maintains about 38 degrees celsius Idles about 33C

http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/841/dsc01033hz4.jpg

There was a dead zone under the video card no air flow so we put in another fan beside the drive bays and also a slot cooler under the heatpipes on the video card idle temp is around 55 degrees Celsius Load Temp is around 70 degrees celsius.
Before the fans Idle temp was 68 degrees celsius Load was around 80
We just needed to get the air moving under the video card.

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5563/dsc01034ij5.jpg

The next two picks show the DPDT switch box for the blast door and the ports on the back it plugs into. The other is the composite video in for the LCD screen.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3898/dsc01038vs2.jpg

http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/3761/dsc01029rr4.jpg

The next two photo's show the installed blast door unit.

http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/3163/dsc01035qs9.jpg

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/6063/dsc01036wq0.jpg

And here is a video showing the blast door working.
Sorry about it being a little dark I will try to post a better one later.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4807163515242219305

[Tale Gunner]

Great work wannabeamodder. It looks really good. Crimson Sky, your son, and you are of the same mold. Fantastic work... I'm jealous!:banana:

[Wannabeamodder]

OK having a bit of a problem with the Nvidia dual monitor setup.

I have the lcd screen hooked up to the s-video jack on the 8800 ultra.

What I want to do is have a seperate video playing on the lcd not just an extension of the desktop can this be done?

If so what am I doing wrong?

Charles

[Wannabeamodder]

Thought I would post to let everyone know I'm still around!

The project for the most part is done so the modderators can move the thread to completed mods if they want to.

Thanks for all the support and advice given by all that really helped me alot.

I have no plans for a new mod anytime soon ( I am still recovering from all the dough I spent on these two systems) :)
But it was worth it!

I will be monitoring the threads and will give advice where I can.

Charles
aka: Wannabeamodder