First Water Cooling Rig

[The boy 4rm oz]

I'm new to water cooling so I don't know the best brands (appart from Danger Den ) or the best products.

I want to make an 1/2" system taking advantage of my top 80mm exhaust fan and the rear 120mm exhaust fan.

Here is a list of the products that I intend to purchase (Most fom Danger Den):
1x Black ICE GTS Stealth 120mm Radiator
1x Black Ice Micro 80mm Radiator
1x PrimoChill Typhoon Reservoir
1x Danger Den TDX 775 or RBX 775 (Can't decide)
1x Danger Den 8800GTX GPU Water Block
1x Danger Den CPS-MAG 12V Pump

Let me know what you think of if I should change anything.

[Zephik]

First off... what are you cooling? Just the CPU and GPU?

I will assume that you know of all the little things you will need. Such as for example, Clamps. <- I would recommend getting those metal ones you typically see on plumbing from hardware stores (Like Home Depot). That said, I'll review what you have listed...

1. 1x Black ICE GTS Stealth 120mm Radiator
2. 1x Black Ice Micro 80mm Radiator
3. 1x PrimoChill Typhoon Reservoir
4. 1x Danger Den TDX 775 or RBX 775 (Can't decide)
5. 1x Danger Den 8800GTX GPU Water Block
6. 1x Danger Den CPS-MAG 12V Pump

1. Good price/performance ratio. The better of this, of course, is the GTX. But they are friggen pricey. But the GTS series are really good Rads.
2. I almost didn't realize what you wanted this for, its for the 80mm top right? Hmmm... never thought about doing it like that. I say... Cool! Go for it, should be pretty original and good for upgrading or just for better cooling. I would but this in the loop for the lowest heat emitting component. I'll assume thats you CPU. I don't think I needed to tell you that though huh? lol
3. Is this that 5.25 Bay Res with the UV front? I like these, they have some pretty neat-o features about them. Are you going to get some of the add ons that the make for them? Like the UV LED's, those are cool.
4. RBX (Check out ArcticMod.com for some SWEET water blocks for both RBX and TDX)
5. Nice... I hate you. ;)
6. The one you have should do the job, but maybe take a look at these? MAG II LE (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=230&cat=23&page=1), ASETEK (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835703018), Swiftech (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835108082). The MAG II LE is better and cheaper than the one you have and out of the three listed, I would go with the Swiftech.

Sorry that I am not as helpful as I usually am, I have no excuse, I'm just feeling lazy today.

Oh and one more thing before I go, Check out ArcticMod.com's Hyper Web Tubing. Use a mixture of that and Tygon tubing (From DD). It doesn't only look uber sweet like that, but the Hyper Web tubing is some strong and durable damn stuff. It's a tad bit more expensive for Hyper Web (Obviously) but its good stuff, which is why. If you don't want to go that route, go with the Tygon tubing. That too is really great stuff that wont crack or kink (as easily) as most other tubing.

**lol sorry about the colors, You wouldn't believe how bored I am right now. >< ^_^

[Silenced_Coyote]

Did you already buy your 8800GTX? Because you can get one from BFG that already has that water block installed. I think it is better since the bracket is single slot. Of course, you could cut it off yourself.

This is almost twice as much money. But this radiator is better than the GTS Stealth. Black Ice GTX Xtreme 120 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5324/ex-rad-107/Danger_Den_Black_Ice_GTX_Xtreme_120_Radiator_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s159)

[The boy 4rm oz]

Thanks SnowFire. I'm going to be cooling a Core 2 Duo E6600 and probably an 8800GTX mabye even a PhysX card later down the track if I can find a water block.

I'm going for the Black ICE GTS Stealth 120mm Radiator mainly because it is a lot thinner then the other radiators that I have seen and with minimal space inside my NZXT LEXA I wanted to keep it as simple as possible.

Yes the Black Ice Micro 80mm Radiator is for my top exhaust fan but sadly I can only get it in blue because the stockists are getting rid of them.

Yes the Res is a singlt bay Res but no it wont have the UV front. I will be getting UV coolant and CCFL's to get the same effect.

I was going to go for the Danger Den RBX water block mainly because it had 2 inlets and one out let like a lot of other brands. Does this increase cooling? And what do these extras that you can buy for the Danger Den Blocks do? Flow panels I think they are called lol can't remember.

I know BFG have an 8800GTX with the Danger Den block already installed but if I buy a different card and the cooler seperately I can save myself close to $150 AUS.

I chose the mag because it had the versetility to mount on any of its sides. I looked at Mag II LE and was going to purchase it but the stockist I'm getting my components through don't stock them or any of the other ones you reccomended but they can order it in for me.

I was going to use those plastic clips but If you think the metal ones are better I'll use them.

Thanks The boy 4rm oz

[Zephik]

Nice... I hate you. lol

Well I would definitely have your micro radiator cooling the Conroe then. Not that I had to tell you that. About the color of the micro radiator, you can paint it whatever color you want so it's not a big deal (I wouldn't paint the fins, just the body). But I don't think you will even see it as its in the top of your case, which last time I checked, the window doesn't go up that high.

Nice choice with the reservoir. It slipped my mind that you should get the clear front with the UV coolant. That way you can have whatever color you want! DOH! Glad you were quick enough to catch that lol. It would be kind of funky looking if you got like blue with green coolant. About the UV CCFL's... You know that you can buy UV Led's that are made especially for that reservoir right? They have three holes, one is an inlet (top) the other is an outlet (bottom) but it has a third one in the middle. That is for the LED's that they make for them, they even have a thermal sensor you can choose instead of a LED. If you want to light it up, you will have to get one of these because the back of the reservoirs aren't clear. LINK (http://www.arcticmod.com/computer-mod/alphacool-lighting-kit-for-reservoirs-uv-ultra-violet.htm)

I'm not entirely sure about the RBX. I would only assume that it cools better, but I like it mainly because it looks uber sweet. Especially if you get the UV edition (http://www.arcticmod.com/computer-cooling-mod/water-blocks-cpu-danger-den-uv-reactive-collection/). Oh and by the way, I believe the center is the inlet and the other two are the outlets. This is so you are feeding fresh coolant directly onto the center of the cpu. ...lol well theres your answer as to why its better. Looking at the TDX, it seems to do the same thing, but with only one outlet. Two heads are better than one right?

The pump you have picked out is fine for your current setup. The difference between that pump and the Mag II LE is pretty slight. I'm not entirely sure about this, but I'm going to say it in case you want to research into it. What I have heard is that its not ALL about the liters per hour but more about how much pressure your pump is creating in your tubes. I think thats why the TT Silent Water isn't a piece of crud like most other cheap kits, its because the tubes are tiny. Thats just a thought, it might be wrong so don't take it with more than a grain of rice. Go with anything from DD and you'll pretty much be fine.

The plastic clips from DD are probably fine, but I would feel more comfortable myself with the ones from hardware stores. I'll find a link to one so you know which kind I am talking about. oh and FYI, do not tighten down too much or you'll crack the tubing. I would tighten down with your fingers and then give it a quarter of a turn or less with a tool. LINK (http://www.julabo.de/database/access_img/8970480.gif)

Have you thought about getting a flow meter? It's usually a good idea to have one of those where you can easily see it whenever you need to. It's not required though, especially if you know the sound of a working system and one that isn't moving. That or if you can tell that the liquid isn't moving when you look through your window.

Here are some other neat little things, they aren't required, but they are pretty cool to have. TT Temp (http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-t-type-water-temperature-indicator.html), Drain Valve (http://www.xoxide.com/koolance-14in-drain-valve.html), Thermo Sensor (http://www.xoxide.com/primochill-typhoon-port-thermosensor.html), Flow Indicator (http://www.xoxide.com/thermaltake-flow-tx-indicator.html). Those are all pretty pricey, you can find cheaper versions elsewhere. I only listed from Xoxide for personal convience.

If you have any more questions, please ask!

[The boy 4rm oz]

Thanks you have been a real help. I have a few more questions though. With the pumps they only have a 3 pin power header. Do you connect that to one of the three pin fan headers on your mobo or do you need a special adapter thing? I have a spare Antec TriCool fan and with that the cable breaks in half with the molex on one end and the three pin cpu socket on the other. Could I use the 3 pin to molex connector to power the pump?

You are right the UV tops on the RBX water blocks look awesome. Could you use the two outer plugs on the block as inlet and the centre as outlet or will that blow the system. It dousn't really bother me I just think that it would cool better with 2 inlets and 1 outlet lol.

The main reason I was going with that Res was because it had 2 inlets and 2 outlets so I could attack multiple components. I was going to have one outlet but have two inlets, one from the system and mabye one from a DD fillport.

Next post I will add a mock sketch of the system. Let me know If I have done any thing wrong plz.

[DaveW]

+ Rep for snowfire.

-Dave

[Zephik]

Hmmm... your pump I am unfamilar with. So lets take a look together! *FYI - Your higher performance pumps have Molex connections. Some, if not all, come with a 3 pin header too. Which is for RPM's.



CSP-MAG - Technical Specifications

Nominal voltage: 12 VDC
Nominal power: 8 W
Maximum head: 2.3 M (3.3 PSI)
Maximum flow: 540 l/hr (143 GPH)
Connection size: 9/16” NPT
Electrical connector: 3-pin (fan header style)
Motor type: Brushless DC*
Pump bearing type: Polished Sapphire
Size: 2.1”W x 2.1”H x 1.75”D
Weight: 241 g (8.5 oz)
Warranty: 30 Months (2-1/2 Years)
Design Goal: The DD-CSP-MAG is designed to surpass the performance of the CSP-750 by providing an extremely long service life, without increasing the size. Various other features, requested by customers, were also incorporated.

Extreme Service Life : This pump is designed with extreme service life (50,000 hours*) This was accomplished by employing several different design patent pending techniques.
Bearings : The MAG features dual in fluid bearings, using the best material available, jewels. These bearings are made of highly polished Sapphire. (<-Thats cool!! lol) This is an extremely hard and long lasting material, oftend found in expensive watches, high precision instruments, and gyroscopes used in the aerospace and military industries. The MAG is the first liquid cooling pump to utilize this technology.
Reducing Forces : The MAG design utilizes two natural pump forces to reduce bearing / shaft loads. First a small amount of flow is diverted through and around the impeller between the motor rotor and stator. This allows boundary layer effect of the spinning rotor surface to help stabilize radial loads. This is similar to how the bearings in your automobile works. As an additional effect it keeps coil temperatures low allowing the motor to run at maximum efficiency. Magnetic forces developed between the very strong rare earth magnetic rotor ring, and the iron stator teeth allow the impeller to operate in magnetic suspension, which virtually eliminates thrusting loads.
Leak Proof : The MAG has no shaft seal, eliminating the possibility of leaking occurring due to long term seal ware. The stator assembly has a plastic barrier between the rotor and the fluid operating on magnetic coupling. The drive and impeller housing is plastic, to reduce the chance of long term fouling.
Brushless DC motor : The MAG features a brushless DC motor designed with an operational component life in excess of 50,000 hours. All heat generating components are thermal conductive bonded to the aluminium case. This provides a large heat sink area allowing the motor to run under constant high efficiency. User Features:

Small Size : The CSP-MAG dimensions are 2.1” x 2.1” x 1.75" when compared to a typical 110V pumps the CSP-MAG uses considerably less space, leaving room in your case for additional components . We still have the smallest pump currently available to the PC liquid cooling consumer.
Configurable : The CSP-MAG features an easy to exchange impeller. This will allow us to provide different impellers for the various types of cooling blocks on the market. C-Systems is working closely with the cooling block manufactures to provide specific impellers for there products
Direct RPM : The CSP-MAG features a hall sensor that directly reads the rotation of the impeller.The impeller RPM can be monitored using your standard fan mother board utilities via the fan port.
Power Suppy : The MAG requires 12V DC and is equipped with a Tx3 connector.
Ultra low noise : The CSP-MAG operates at a lower noise level the our CSP-750MKII due to the sealed motor compartment and improved pump housing
design.
Easy Installation : Purchase the industrial velcro to mount anywhere in case.
Flow Direction : The MAG features a side inlet and top outlet for flow direction. The pump is now available with 3/8" OD or 1/2" OD High Flow straight fitting.
Ports : The MAG features a top outlet and side. The pump is now available with G 1/4 BSPP straight fitting ports.
Finish : The MAG features a new Delrin (Acetal) housing to ensure long term corrosion protection. Multi-Unit : The small size and low power consumption of the MAG allows multi-unit installs. When liquid cooling graphic cards and/or chipsets and CPU’s, separate loops can be used to limit the amount the thermal load to the CPU. As an additional benefit the flow across the CPU will also increase (see user guides for more multi unit install information). The MAG units allows series flow configurations as well as parallel flow configurations.

Well that pretty much sums it up. Basically, don't worry about it. When you read the manual it will tell you exactly what to do. *I believe it does say something about a special adapter, but that IS included so fear not. :) **It's not a special connector, its a fancy name for fan header. lol

I would only assume, that having two inlets and one outlet would create high pressure on the outlet. Thus resulting in your tube being blown off and liquid _literally_ being pumped out into your computer. FYI - That would be bad!

Now, if you had two smaller tubes as inlets and a tube that was the size of both those tubes combined as the outlet, I believe that would work. But that would be kind of pointless, just stick with the one inlet and two outlets. It was designed specifically that way for increased performance. :)

Your res has three holes. One is on the bottom (to take liquid from), another is the hole up top (to feed liquid into) and then you have the one in the middle. Which I wouldn't recommend with use for anything other than the accessories that it was designed for. I'm saying that out of safety and also so that I am not to blame at the end of the day. ;)

Oh no way man! If you screw up, I am going to say NOTHING and laugh at you. ;) Just kidding, I'll point out anything that I happen to catch. After all! My reputation is _literally_ on the line! I don't want my recently earned three green bars to go away! :p

**Thanks Dave! It's funny how my reputation always sky-rockets when I talk about water cooling. lol

[The boy 4rm oz]

The Res I had in mind (from the pics I have seen) say that it has 4 holes plus the top one for filling. It comes wil plugs to block up the ones that arn't in use. I was going to use two as as inlet and outlet and use one of the others to attach 2 a fill port. Will the fill port fill up and explode or anything?

Sketch of setup coming soon.

The boy 4rm oz

[Zephik]

Can I get a link to your res?

[Silenced_Coyote]

I think I found the reservoir you are talking about:

Single 5 1/4:
http://www.primochill.com/index.php?action=item&id=1009&prevaction=category&previd=1&prevstart=12
Dual 5 1/4:
http://www.primochill.com/index.php?action=item&id=1010&prevaction=category&previd=1&prevstart=12

Both have 2 inlets and 2 outlets.

[Zephik]

Oh, THOSE ones. When I googled your Reservoir it came up with two websites that had the same product.

THIS (http://www.primochill.com/index.php?action=item&id=59&prevaction=category&previd=1&prevstart=0) one.

Thanks for finding that Silenced_Coyote, I actually looked for other versions but couldn't find any that matched what he was talking about. I should of went directly to the products home page. :rolleyes:

Okay, short and simple. That reservoir does in fact have two inlets and two outlets. That pretty much sums it up. lol

If you are looking into having two inlets and two outlets then that is exactly what that reservoir is for.

**oh yeah, one more thing! If you are looking to use thats reservoirs dual inlet and outlet design, the way it works is you put the inlets and outlets on either side of the plastic wall that you can see on the inside. This is so you are using fresh coolant instead of the coolant that you just dumped back in.

[DaveW]

Thanks for finding that Simon,

Possibly for the first time ever, it wasn't Simon who found it. ;) I know, hard to believe. I can see why you made the mistake tho. :D

EDIT: Unless Silenced_Coyote is also known as Simon, which i didn't know...

-Dave

[Zephik]

Possibly for the first time ever, it wasn't Simon who found it. ;) I know, hard to believe. I can see why you made the mistake tho. :D

EDIT: Unless Silenced_Coyote is also known as Simon, which i didn't know...

-Dave

What are you talking about?

[DaveW]

What? Did you change that?

-Dave

[Zephik]

What? Did you change that?

-Dave

LoL

I'm just messin wit ya, I changed it. ;)

[The boy 4rm oz]

Yeah thats the Res I'm looking at. Can I still use a fillport with that or is it useless? One other thing. My drives are held in by drive rails (you can get a better look at these at the NZXT homepage), the only down side of this is that I cant screw my drives directly to the mountings. Will this be a problem because the res is plastic? I can take the pins off the rails directly screw the res to them but will that make it leak?

Pic coming soon.

[slytherock]

Possibly for the first time ever, it wasn't Simon who found it. ;) I know, hard to believe. I can see why you made the mistake tho. :D

EDIT: Unless Silenced_Coyote is also known as Simon, which i didn't know...

-Dave

Dont look too far Dave, Both names start with an S... It may be a sign :alien:
;)

[Zephik]

Yeah thats the Res I'm looking at. Can I still use a fillport with that or is it useless? One other thing. My drives are held in by drive rails (you can get a better look at these at the NZXT homepage), the only down side of this is that I cant screw my drives directly to the mountings. Will this be a problem because the res is plastic? I can take the pins off the rails directly screw the res to them but will that make it leak?

Pic coming soon.


Product Overview

The PrimoChill Typhoon Single Bay Reservoir is the perfect solution for removing air bubbles in your water-cooling system. Installation is a breeze! Find an empty 5 1/4" drive bay, and slide it in like a CD-ROM, using the supplied screws to mount the reservoir into place. Construction is laser cut cast acrylic joined together to form a water-tight seal that is pressure-leak tested. Many bay reservoirs have come and gone, but the Typhoon Series reservoirs have been tried and tested to meet your water-cooling systems needs now and far into the future. Each Typhoon reservoir is designed to meet the ever growing needs to circulate and hold water in any cooling loop. The single bay reservoir is extremely versatile due to its 2 Inlet and 2 Outlet (max.) design. This enables you to have multiple pulls and multiple returns to and from the reservoir. Each inlet/outlet is tapped NPSM with precision, enabling use of a wide variety of fittings. The thread used is BSPP and is compatible with G 1/4 fittings. The inlet/outlet holes are sealed with an o-ring which is compressed by the flange nut barb (supplied), creating a perfect seal. For the ports not in use, port caps are provided. The top fill port is oversized allowing easy and quick filling of the reservoir with less mess. A durable nickel plated screw cap is provided for the fill port.
Most of these features are exclusive to the PrimoChill Typhoon Series Water Reservoir. Each reservoir comes with all the fittings, screws, caps and tape that you will need to get your water-cooling system up and running.
Features:

Easily installs in any empty 5 1/4" bay.
Constructed of laser cut cast acrylic with water-tight, pressure-leak tested seals.
Multiple returns to the reservoir.
Two Inlet and Two outlet versatile design.
Compatible with G 1/4" Fittings
4 Total Ports (2 in 2 out)
Oversized top fillport for quick and easy no mess filling Includes:

Single Bay Reservoir
4 Flanged Fittings
4 Fitting O-Seals
2 Port Caps
1 Nickel Plated screw cap
1 Fill Cap O-Seal
1 Roll Teflon Tape
4 Mounting Screws


What/how are you planning to use the fillport? It has one provided along with the reservoir... Are you thinking of having an external fillport that connects with the fillport on the reservoir? That would enable you to have a hassle free design! What I mean is, you wouldn't have to open up your case and take out your reservoir (if you can't get to it) just to fill it up.

I would only assume that you shouldn't have a problem with the mounting of the reservoir into your case. It comes with 4 mounting screws that you use to mount the reservoir. It would be just like as if you were mounting an optical drive.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I'll post the pic and you can see what I mean.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Well I can't get the pic to work because it is on my Hard Drive and it wont let me copy it, so I will have to describe it to you.

As you know the res will be fitted into one of by spare drive bays. from there to coolant flows to the pump and up to the 80mm rad on the top of the case. From the 80mm rad the coolant flows through the cpu water block and on to the 120mm rad. From the 120mm rad the coolant flows to the GPU block and back towards the res. Before the coolant goes back to re res I was either going to have a "T" section with the fillport mounted to the roof of the case so that it is connected to the same inlet as the rest of the system or I could not use the "T" section and attach the fillport to the res with the spare inlet hole.

It sounds a bit complicated and is hard to see without the pic but let me know what you think.

[Zephik]

Have you tried opening the picture up, full screening it, then hitting the "print screen" button on your keyboard? Just go into micro paint and paste then save.

What was your original question? lol I thought I knew, but when you tried to describe it to me it didn't make sense in my head.

[Silenced_Coyote]

Dont look too far Dave, Both names start with an S... It may be a sign :alien:
;)

I thought the exact same thing when I was updating myself on this thread.


What/how are you planning to use the fillport? It has one provided along with the reservoir... Are you thinking of having an external fillport that connects with the fillport on the reservoir? That would enable you to have a hassle free design! What I mean is, you wouldn't have to open up your case and take out your reservoir (if you can't get to it) just to fill it up.

I would only assume that you shouldn't have a problem with the mounting of the reservoir into your case. It comes with 4 mounting screws that you use to mount the reservoir. It would be just like as if you were mounting an optical drive.

I say SnowFire has the better idea. It will basically be a T-line with the reservoir being the "_" (bar) on top of the "l" of an upside down T. lol
Then again, the fill port on the reservoir is a lot bigger and you might have to mod it to fit a barb and then put the tubing over the barb.
Either way sounds fine to me. Your way is easier and I don't see any problems with it. I just thought you would be using all 4 in the actual "loop".

Loop setup looks fine. But I prefer the pump to go straight to the CPU block. Put the 80 mm radiator after the GPU instead. That way, the CPU block would get the highest pressure.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Could I go pump - cpu - 80mm - GPU - 120mm - res?

I just don't want to double back because I have limited room in the case.

[Zephik]

You could... but you would be cooling your GPU with your 80mm instead of your 120mm.

I would go...

Res(out)>Pump>CPU>120mm>GPU>80mm>Res(in)

[The boy 4rm oz]

Ok so I have had time to re-think my setup while our net has been down and allong with your input I have made a list of my new components.

1x Black ICE GTS Stealth 120mm Radiator
1x Black Ice Micro 80mm Radiator
1x PrimoChill Typhoon Reservoir
1x Danger Den RBX 775
1x Danger Den 8800GTX GPU Water Block
1x Danger Den MAG II LE 12V Pump

[Silenced_Coyote]

Could I go pump - cpu - 80mm - GPU - 120mm - res?

I just don't want to double back because I have limited room in the case.

I say this is better because the 8800GTX is way hotter than the CPU.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Oh i almost forgot. I havent asked about what coolent i should use. I checked the manufactuers website for the res and it said that i can't use a coolent that contains glycol because it eats away at the stuff they use to join the plastic.

I have looked at the store where i'm going 2 get my stuff from and I found this coolent:
Alphacool Water-Additive Tec Protect UV Green (Also Blue or Red)
This coolent contains no Glycol, but it has hydroxy phosphon carboxilic acid. Will the acid destroy my pump and eat my tygon tubing?

[The boy 4rm oz]

Well yesterday I recieved my Black Ice Micro radiator along with the fill port and a few other things. When I had a look at the Rad I noticed that it was one of the really old ones with the built in 3/8" brass barbs, so now I need to get a 3/8" to 1/2" converter. Luckily I called them and they are sending me one free of charge :).

[The boy 4rm oz]

Hi its been a while, can i please get a reply on the coolent issue. If you think the alphacool coolent is bad can you please reccomend one.
Heres a link to the coolents that are availiable to me:
http://www.chilledpc.com.au/store/default.php?cPath=116&osCsid=88accc950daa9ba9cff59126e6bbc40b

[Zephik]

Hi its been a while, can i please get a reply on the coolent issue. If you think the alphacool coolent is bad can you please reccomend one.
Heres a link to the coolents that are availiable to me:
http://www.chilledpc.com.au/store/default.php?cPath=116&osCsid=88accc950daa9ba9cff59126e6bbc40b

Zalman always makes great stuff. <<Link (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835118123). But I tend to lean towards FluidXP. <<Link (http://www.arcticmod.com/computer-cooling-mod/uv-reactive-coolant/). They have a new color out now too, its black.

The bottom line, you should be fine with your coolant or most any other coolant for PC's. It's pretty hard to go wrong unless you are making your own coolant.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Thanks so much thats exactly what i wanted to hear.

[Zephik]

Oh i almost forgot. I havent asked about what coolent i should use. I checked the manufactuers website for the res and it said that i can't use a coolent that contains glycol because it eats away at the stuff they use to join the plastic.

Didn't see this post, both Zalman and FluidXP contain propylene Glycol. If it eats away at that products bonding solution, then you probably don't want to get this stuff. What you could do though, is use Weld-On and scrap acrylic to make your very own ...um... whatever it is that your talking about. I'm assuming the res.



I have looked at the store where i'm going 2 get my stuff from and I found this coolent:
Alphacool Water-Additive Tec Protect UV Green (Also Blue or Red)
This coolent contains no Glycol, but it has hydroxy phosphon carboxilic acid. Will the acid destroy my pump and eat my tygon tubing?
No Glycol? Sounds like a winner. ...and no, it won't eat away at ...um... anything. lol It might just be me, but I doubt a professional company would put out a product that would eat away at what its made for. So no worries, this isn't that kind of acid. ...now if you were to use stomach acid in place of your coolant? Well I would definitely not advise that. :p

[The boy 4rm oz]

Thanks so much, yeah I was talkn about the res, it says that the glycol eats the stuff they use to join the plexi.

I posted my final system specs on the last page could you look at them and tell me if it's ok or if I need to add anything?
Thanks

[Zephik]

Ok so I have had time to re-think my setup while our net has been down and along with your input I have made a list of my new components.

1x Black ICE GTS Stealth 120mm Radiator
1x Black Ice Micro 80mm Radiator
1x PrimoChill Typhoon Reservoir
1x Danger Den RBX 775
1x Danger Den 8800GTX GPU Water Block
1x Danger Den MAG II LE 12V Pump

That looks pretty good to me. The only thing that I still don't really like is the Pump, but it's good enough. I'm glad you decided to go with the MAG II LE though. I think your going to run a 1/2inch system right? So thats good, I wouldn't of recommended anything less than the MAG II with a 1/2inch setup.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Well if you say it's all good then It must be. You have been been a great help. Are there and tricks of the trade or any tips you can give me? Anything would be great.

[Zephik]

I know one that is of _high_ importance. Always leak test the kit before you install it into your computer. Just put it in a bucket or a sink or something. That way if it does leak, at least that way it won't leak all over your computer or anything else.

When installing plumbing clamps (the ones with the screws that you can buy at hardware stores), tighten the screw with your fingers until you can't anymore, then give it a 1/4th of a turn with a tool.

I can't remember whats a really good way to bleed the air out of your system, but thinking about it, if you have a T-Line in your system this could work. Plug the T in the T-Line and point the plugged end up. Then turn your system on and let the bubbles of air circulate through your loop. They will eventually end up in the plugged end of you T-Line where you can then turn your system off and release the air.

If you google for watercooling tutorials and read through a bunch, they usually mention tons of really handy and useful tips.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Thanks. About the clips I was going to use a stainless steel version of the basic plastic ones that you get with your average kit. I live on a vineyard and have had no problems with these connectors on any of our high pressure water tubes. Would these be ok?

[Silenced_Coyote]

Stainless steel version is fine. Now hurry up and water cool your PC! :banana:

[The boy 4rm oz]

Lol I wish i could. I'm upgrading around July so just sorting everything out now so I acn just order it when the time comes.

[Zephik]

Lol I wish i could. I'm upgrading around July so just sorting everything out now so I acn just order it when the time comes.

Good thinking, it's always better to be safe than sorry!

[The boy 4rm oz]

I was just wondering, do Danger Den make any 8800GTS water blocks yet? or do they make and that are compatiable?

[Zephik]

Aren't the GTS and GTX the same in layout? If thats true, then yes.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I thought because the GTX was longer it had different mounting holes and wouldn't fit. I dont want to spend $850 on two GPU's and another $450 on water blocks. There must be a cheeper alternative. One that only cools the GPU and not all the other hot spots that the GTX block states.

[sirkillalot617]

Make your own blocks if you really want to cut prices.

[Zephik]

I thought because the GTX was longer it had different mounting holes and wouldn't fit. I dont want to spend $850 on two GPU's and another $450 on water blocks. There must be a cheeper alternative. One that only cools the GPU and not all the other hot spots that the GTX block states.

Hmmm, I don't have the slightest clue then. They look identical to me...

Try to find some pictures with the heatsinks taken off of both products.

You can also email danger den and ask them.

[Silenced_Coyote]

Hmmm, I don't have the slightest clue then. They look identical to me...

Try to find some pictures with the heatsinks taken off of both products.

You can also email danger den and ask them.

Why do things the difficult way? You are talking about this waterblock from Danger Den right?
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=257&cat=48&page=1
Well, according to their site, it is ONLY for the 8800 GTX.

[Zephik]

Why do things the difficult way? You are talking about this waterblock from Danger Den right?
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=257&cat=48&page=1
Well, according to their site, it is ONLY for the 8800 GTX.

That product came out before the GTS though. So there is a chance that they haven't updated its compatibility list.

Give em a ringy dingy and find out.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I thought that aswell about how it states 8800GTX water block. Well i guess I will just send them ans email and find out.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I just wont worry about it. I was thinking of going SLI with two 8800GTS 320MB versions but then I will need a new PSU. I will just stay with the GTX and my previous water cooling setup.

[Silenced_Coyote]

It won't work.

But Danger Den worked with BFG to make this water block. So it doesn't matter when the block and the graphics card came out.

It would also be odd that BFG wouldn't have a watercooled GTS version if the GTX block fits.

Oh, just browsing their forums gave some info.
Posted on Febrary 10


Blocks are now being manufactured...still waiting on the top design...but may do a limited release with the current top style...

[The boy 4rm oz]

Yeah i guess ur right. Anyway I have decided that i'm not going SLI cos I don't want to fork out for another new PSU.

[Zephik]

I think you made the better choice by not going SLI.

[Silenced_Coyote]

By the way, Koolance will be coming out with an 8800GTS waterblock. Should arrive Feb 28.
http://www.koolance.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=406&osCsid=edde77a1491dda124272c4f47dac6959

[The boy 4rm oz]

So have I SnowFire. By The Way you have been a great help with this whole issue and I would like to take this chance to thank you for your expierience and expertiese. Thanks.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Um just wondering. I was reading the specs on the MAG II - LE and it says that it uses 1/2" OD connectors. Whats the difference between OD and ID? Also it says that it uses some kind of magnet. My pump will be close to my HDD, will this whipe my HDD or will it be fine? Also I was thinking of changing my pump to a D4 or a D5 because the place i'm going through might not be able to get the MAG in. I know the D5 is better but it it overkill?

[Zephik]

Um just wondering. I was reading the specs on the MAG II - LE and it says that it uses 1/2" OD connectors. Whats the difference between OD and ID? Also it says that it uses some kind of magnet. My pump will be close to my HDD, will this whipe my HDD or will it be fine? Also I was thinking of changing my pump to a D4 or a D5 because the place i'm going through might not be able to get the MAG in. I know the D5 is better but it it overkill?

The difference between OD and ID is fairly simple. OD is a dog from the cartoon garfield while ID is what I use on a daily basis... HA, just kidding.

OD = Outside Diameter

ID = Inside Diameter

Tubes aren't paper thin, so they have two diameters. At least this is how I understand it. To be honest, I just might be totally wrong on this one.

If you get one of these (one (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=175&cat=23&page=1), two (http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=135&cat=23&page=1)) instead of a Mag II, I'll give you a +rep. lol

Are they overkill? More like just right. For your kit, I would say that they are that "sweet spot" that you want. You could get away with the MAG sure, but I think you would be much better off with one of the two pumps I listed.

As for the magnets? I would only assume that you are fine. I would also only assume that a magnet would only be a threat to a hard drive if it was either super powerful or directly on the hard drive. I've placed fridge magnets on hard drives before, just to see what would happen if anything at all. As I first expected, nothing happened. The magents were not powerful enough to cause any damage. I would, again, only assume that DangerDen would be smart enough to make these items non harmful to your computer if you were to place them inside your computer. Which many people do.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Is there much difference between the D4 and the D5 appart from price? I can get a D5 for $155 AUS and a D4 for about $135, the second pump you listed is about the same price as the D4. I can also get the CPS MAG for $95 AUS. I also noticed that the D4 isn't on the DD website, dose this mean they don't make it anymore?

Also I was wondering what the hottest part of the Rad would be? I have a Thermaltake Smart Fan with a broken VR speen dontroller but the thermal probe still works. I was going to put this fan on the 120mm Rad and put the probe in the fins so it would auto adjust speed for heat. I thought the hottest part of the rad would be where the inlet nozzle is but doesn't the copper dispurse the heat? Where should I put the probe?

[The boy 4rm oz]

Oh almost forgot. When I'm looking at connectors They say 1/2" OD would that be the same as 1/2" ID tubing? Because the outside of the connector is the same as the inside of the tube. Is that right.

[Zephik]

I've noticed that they don't offer the D4 on the website anymore too. They might not make it anymore, thats the only conclusion that I could think of. After looking at a couple of reviews, it seems to be just as solid as the D5, just a little more outdated is my guess.

Hmmm, I wasn't under the impression that pumps generated alot of heat. But if I had to take a guess at where the most heat would be generated... it would be where the "motor" is. Now, where the motor is on whatever pump you buy? I haven't a clue. I would wait until you get your pump to worry about this. If anything, you would be fine with running the fan on low the entire time. But if you touch it and it does feel overly hot, then I would either ask the company if its supposed to be that hot and/or just turn your fan up on high.

[Zephik]

Oh almost forgot. When I'm looking at connectors They say 1/2" OD would that be the same as 1/2" ID tubing? Because the outside of the connector is the same as the inside of the tube. Is that right.

That would be my guess. ^_^

[The boy 4rm oz]

Sorry I meant the radiator not the pump lol. I was going to put the probe in the rad to auto adjust the fan sped. Would the rad be hottest at the inlet or dose the copper dispurse the heat?

[Zephik]

I don't think you will have to worry about it. But if you really want to, wait until you get the rads and then feel out where the hottest spots are. That is where I would put a thermo stick if I ever wanted to do that.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Sorry , I have been away for a few days. I guess I'll just wate and see how the temps go before I do anything. I have the fan attached to my GPU with the thermal probe and It seems to do a good job.

Oh, and I decided to go with the D4 pump instead of the mag or the D5. I would use the other one you listed before but it is kinda awkward to mount.

[Zephik]

Oh, and I decided to go with the D4 pump instead of the mag or the D5. I would use the other one you listed before but it is kinda awkward to mount.

Very cool, I believe you will be much more satisfied with the D4 than the MAG. It will probably last longer too!

Where did you get the D4 anyways? I don't think DangerDen even sell them anymore?

[The boy 4rm oz]

I havn't got it yet but the site i'm getting my stuff from still lists it, they still have stock. If not i'll just get the D5 :)

[The boy 4rm oz]

I was just wondering, is there any set inlet/outlets for rads and water block or can you just use either or?

[Silenced_Coyote]

No for rads.
Yes/No for water blocks. It depends what water block you have. Some are symetrical so it works. But others aren't, like the Swiftech Storm.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I know about the DD RBX block cos it has the 2 outlets and one inlet but what about a DD 8800GTX block or a northbridge block?

[Silenced_Coyote]

What northbridge block are you getting?

[The boy 4rm oz]

Well if I go for the ASUS Striker Extreme or P5N32-E SLI then I need to use the ASUS A8N block so probs that one, if not just the standard DD 680i block.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I was just wondering how much coolent the average system uses? I'm using a 5.25" bay res and just want to know in advance.

[Zephik]

I'm not too sure actually. But I'll tell you this much, It definitely needs at least one. ;)

[Zephik]

You could probably mix distilled water with your coolant if its not enough. That would be loads cheaper than buying two.

[nil8]

I have a distilled water system with a couple of additives in there, and it works well enough.

If you're including your graphics card, FSB, and a 5.25 reservoir you'll probably use around 1/5 to 1/4 of a gallon. If you're going for distilled water, buy a gallon. It makes life easy when you have to drain your setup as well.

Oh, and 1/2" ID is 5/8" OD tubing. This isn't the same as 1/2" OD(3/8"ID). Look at your specs carefully before you order your tubes.

Reading through this, a couple of guys have been a great help to you. rep+ to Snow & Silenced.

I have a basic post of tips for water cooling, let me go dig that up and post it here.

Edit: I've found it. I hope this helps with some basics.
I wrote this up in another thread, I'll copy it here.

"Watercooling isn't that hard. It helps immensely to be comfortable working on computers and doing some more advanced work. If you don't have this, don't worry. It's what this community is here for.

You can buy your parts separately, just make sure you have the same size tubing going from 1 part to another. There are 2 different sized tubes that are commonly used(1/2" and 3/8"). Most kits use 3/8".

Everything is compatible as long as it has the same tube sizes. Going from a 1/2" fitting on one piece to a 3/8" fitting can be done, but it's tedious and not going to give the correct visual appeal of water tubing and causes more possible leak points.

Your basic watercooling system consists of your waterblock(s), pump, radiator. I highly suggest a reservoir for filling/bleeding the system.

Another thing is to make your reservoir the high point of your system, so the air will bleed quicker and easier.

I've built a couple of WC rigs. The best loop I've found is pump->reservoir->cpu block->gpu block->radiator->pump. Other guys might have different opinions or ideas, this is mine. Take it with a grain of salt.

Most of all, be patient. The computer I'm typing on right now is watercooled and I rebuilt the water loop at least a dozen times to fix issues. Be patient, take care of your equipment and occasionally monitor your system for problems.

Another suggestion I have is the Criticool powerplant. I've found it to be insanely useful for troubleshooting problems without having the computer on. The other upside is that when you hit the power button on your box, your pump turns on too. The only other options are leave it on 24/7 or plug it in every time you use your computer. If you forget it once, the water will heat up and can cause failure. The type of tubing used in wc setups isn't designed for boiling heat.

Soft tubing and high gph/lph pumps cause problems. The tubes can't take the pressure and start to close in on themselves. Use harder tubing on the pump intake. Most DIY stores have hard tubing in their plumbing section. It's meant for refrigerators or to move water.

If your fittings are threaded, buy some teflon tape and use it. A couple of wraps of your fittings threaded ends will do. It helps keep things watertight and is necessary due to small gaps caused by manufacturing. Hardware stores will have it.

Cable ties moving in opposite directions on the same fitting normally will keep it watertight. A pair of needle nose pliers and a little pressure will normally stop would-be leaks as long as your tubing is cut flush. Cable ties can be found anywhere and a few hundred small ones shouldn't cost more than 5 bucks.

I would also suggest keeping a couple extra seals around just in case. Better safe than sorry. Also, paper towels or some other way of catching fluid. Draining systems can get messy.

A little tip on draining: As soon as you remove a tube from a closed loop, you have 2 parts leaking fluid. This is no good. You have to be quick about this, but using your thumb as a watertight seal works well. The air will displace through the tube and your thumb will keep the water in place in whatever part of the system you just pulled the tube from."

I've personally had a couple of broken seals, a reservoir that wasn't level, a lot of tubing leaks, twists in my tubes and times when I've lost my patience.

Give yourself plenty of space to work and make sure you have something to clean up the mess with. You will make a mess the first time you drain your system to fix something.

[The boy 4rm oz]

Thank you nil8 +rep for you.

[The boy 4rm oz]

So nil8 your saying that if all of my connectors are 1/2" OD I need 3/8" ID tubing.

[The boy 4rm oz]

I was just re-thinking my tubeing layout and i realised that it may be hard to do the loop without some right-angle fittings. Do they reduce the flow or should it be ok? Oh and i figured out the tubing, I was tired when I read the explanation and just didn't get it. Ok so I need 3/8"ID tubing for my 1/2" OD fittings. Also how much tubing should I order, is 3 metres enough or should i just get 2?

[The boy 4rm oz]

I never really calculated how much this w/c rig was going to cost me until now. At about $800 AUS thats just like me buying a second 8800GTX. So I am going to have to get a Danger Den TDX instead of the RBX and I may have to forget about the north bridge block all together.