Window!

[Ookazoo]

Hi everyone,

I'm planning on cutting a window in my case. The case is an Antec Sonata (http://arstechnica.com/reviews/hardware/sonata.ars) (old version), and I'm going to remove that useless lock thing to put in the window. I already have a piece of lexan as the backing. Why lexan? Because acrylic blocks 70% of UV light, and I'd like to put some UV CCFLs in there. The window will be 11" by 11" with 1 inch radius rounds at the corners. The trickiest part is cutting, and I'm going to use a jigsaw. What kind of jigsaw blade do I need? Also, how difficult will it be to make rounded edges?

Lighting idea: With the UV lights in, I thought it would be cool to make something glow. My idea was to get some UV reactive spray paint, and stencil some cool design on the window. When the UV lights are on, it glows, but when they're not, its invisible. Can you recommend some decent UV CCFLs? Here is the UV paint (http://www.xoxide.com/paint.html)

[DaveW]

I should point out that if Acrylic, like you say blocks 70% of UV light, (i'm not quite certain about that) it would actually make a more interesting mod. UV is dangerous for your Eyes, but when it hit certain UV reactive substances, such as UV Paint, it's reflected in a different wavelength-visible light. This will pass through the acrylic no problem, depending on it's color. This means you'll still get the glowing effect without worrying about UV radiation.

That would be great, but again, i don't know if what you're saying about acrylic is true; i'm not certain. If our resident plastic expert, Tybrenis, catches this thread then i'm sure he'll be able to drop in with some more information.

When buying CCFL's, ONLY BUY FROM A REPUTABLE COMPANY. Also, make sure you are running a decent PSU that produces stable voltages. Fluctuating voltages on bog-standard PSU's, mixed with poor workman ship and low-quality components in the converters for unbranded CCFL's can cause fires. Don't worry too much if you buy one or the other-but don't mix the two.

Now that i've berated and terrified you, good luck with the case and welcome to modding...you ain't escaping sucker, and some point soon, money will be a distant memory. :D

Seriously though, don't let me scare you. I can probably help you with the cutting: the Jigsaw is my preferred cutting tool, although i would not recommend it for cutting plastic. For metal, both Steel and Aluminium, get yourself some metal blades. Drill a pilot hole to pass the blade through, then get some non-flammable lube (i tend to find that bicycle oil works well: avoid WD:40. Most bicycle oil is made from fish oil, while WD:40 is hydrocarbon based (again, i think.)) and put some on the blade. If you mask off the area you want to cut, then you'll get a cleaner cut. This is actually true, but i found that the oil and dirt then made a complete mess of the masking tape and made it difficult to see my cut lines. Also, the jigsaw likes to tear away pieces of tape.

The main advantage of masking tape is that it protects the surrounding metal from scratches and dents. Always clamp your piece down to something solid, always cut away from you, and be aware that the blade is underneath the piece too: try not to cut the table. As you near the edges, make sure the piece you're cutting out won't bend under it's own weight and ruin your work.

I tend to find the best technique is to cut it out in little chunks. If you do by mistake bend or dent the metal, a quick mallet blow on a flat surface will put it back into shape. You might want to check out Slug Toy's guides to metalworking, there might be stuff in there that will help.

Don't forget to file the edges when you're done.

Apart from that, good luck! We'll help you where you need it. I'll answer all PM's but if they're related to modding I'd appreciate them being asked in the forums instead so everyone can benefit. :)

-Dave

[.Maleficus.]

I cut 1/8 acrylic with a jigsaw no problem. All you need are some good clamps, get it on tight, and use a wood blade for the jigsaw. The metal ones teeth are too small to do the job good, but the ones for wood work perfect. For the size of the cuts you're making, it will be 100x easier than a Dremel. When you say rounded edges, what do you mean? Like cutting a circle or rounded corners, or actually making the edge in a semi-circle? And for good cathode brands, the ones I ordered from Xoxide seem decent, and they were a good price. But do what Dave said and make sure your PSU is decent, and read some customer reviews and different places. First hand accounts are always nice to know.

[Ookazoo]

About the UV blocking acrylic: I picked up the fact in a the Maximum PC guide to extreme PC mods, in a section about a guy who put a bunch of UV lights in his case and wrote on his (lexan) window in UV reactive ink.

Thank you for CCFL advice, I don't want my pc to be a toaster oven. I have a 700 Watt OCZ psu, so I'm not so worried about lack of power. Also, I was planning on getting the CCFLs from Xoxide anyway, so that works out.

Good advice for cutting the metal, I've only cut wood before, and I'm not planning on cutting the lexan.

On rounded edges (sorry, that wasn't a very good way to describe what I mean): What i mean is that instead of a square with right angle corners, the corners will be round. Each corner will be a 1 quarter of a circle. Will a jigsaw be able to cut tightly enough to make a quarter circle with a 1-inch radius?

New question, what do you think I should use to mount the plastic itself to the metal?

[Ookazoo]

UPDATE:

I went to the hardware store and bought supplies! (5-minute epoxy, jigsaw blades, enamel for the edges, brushes, files, glasses). When I got home i started in on the side itself. Apart from making awful noise, the jigsaw cuts like a warm knife through butter. I only got the chance to cut one side, however, because my drill battery ran out. I've decided that I will cut the curvy parts with a dremel, because the jigsaw won't be able to do that tight of a turn.

I'll keep you posted

[DaveW]

The jigsaw can probably manage some pretty tight turns. Take a look at my case, in my sig: if you look at the front, at the bottom, you'll see a very, very, tight corner. I cut that with a jigsaw and smoothed it out with a file, and that's Steel. You probably won't have much trouble with it.

Good luck, and post pics!

-Dave

[Kyrstally]

The idea of UV paint on the window is great... but it also washes off:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/3854/uvp-01/Clearneon_UV_Reactive_Clear_Coat_Paint_-_Blue.html?tl=g1c12s495

Wouldn't it wash off lexan? I actually love the idea, being I am having a rough time finding precisely what I see in UV appliques... would be easier to stencil what I want and just spray the paint instead.. and be kewl to see when only the UV CCFL's are on.

If you know of a UV paint that doesn't wash off, please let me know!

EDIT: Curiosity is killing me, so I wrote and email to ClearNeon with the question of washing off the lexan. When I hear back, I'll pass it along, that is if no one else knows the answer already if they have tried it :)

OK, just found A.C. Ryan's paint won't wash off.. so I guess that is the way I'll go for my logo's too. I feel the heel for not having found this before :neutral: Good luck on your window!!

[Ookazoo]

Hi everyone,

I'll have pictures tomorrow. I cut one more side and a curve. Turns out the jigsaw can cut tight enough on the corners! I'm glad that I did that instead of the dremel. The only problem is that the bottom of the jigsaw is too wide to cut two of the other sides. I'm gonna ask my dad for help when he gets home (tomorrow) and figure out a way to cut those last two.

Thanks for the compliment on the UV paint idea :D. Also thanks for the recommendation.

[AKA_RA]

When buying CCFL's, ONLY BUY FROM A REPUTABLE COMPANY. Also, make sure you are running a decent PSU that produces stable voltages. Fluctuating voltages on bog-standard PSU's, mixed with poor workman ship and low-quality components in the converters for unbranded CCFL's can cause fires.

He's not kidding, i had 2 cheapies burn out on me, one was inside the case for a while afterwards and had slightly burnt the top of the case

[tybrenis]

Lexan is polycarbonate, which emits most visible light until 400nm where it cuts off, cutting off all UV light transmission. I think you might still get an effect, but no UV can truly pass through lexan. Now, polymethyl methacrylate (or acrylic), however, transmits light down to 300nm, allowing UV to pass through no problem.

You're going to have a hard time making your paint adhere to an acrylic window, and with the UV paint it will never be truly clear. I just want you to know that before you invest too far into it - you'll always see a faint outline at the least without lights on.

For trying to paint acrylic, it can be done, but its a bit tricky. Just go in very very light passes, and make the first few practically a dusting. Allow them to fully dry, so you have a basecoat down for the restof the paint to adhere to. You want to paint over the paint, not the acrylic. So just do 4 or 5 quick quick dustings of paint. If it isn't enamel or lacquer based paint, it will wash off. So, seal it with a good clear acrylic spray paint like Krylon Crystal Clear etc. Use similar steps painting this onto the window, as it will not adhere well to the acrylic either.

[dfigravity]

He's not kidding, i had 2 cheapies burn out on me, one was inside the case for a while afterwards and had slightly burnt the top of the case

I have found the Ultra brand of UV CCFL's to be top notch...bright as hell too.

[DaveW]

If our resident plastic expert, Tybrenis, catches this thread then i'm sure he'll be able to drop in with some more information.

Tybrenis saves the day! Seriously though, this guy knows his ****.


Lexan is polycarbonate, which emits most visible light until 400nm where it cuts off, cutting off all UV light transmission. I think you might still get an effect, but no UV can truly pass through lexan. Now, polymethyl methacrylate (or acrylic), however, transmits light down to 300nm, allowing UV to pass through no problem.

You're going to have a hard time making your paint adhere to an acrylic window, and with the UV paint it will never be truly clear. I just want you to know that before you invest too far into it - you'll always see a faint outline at the least without lights on.

For trying to paint acrylic, it can be done, but its a bit tricky. Just go in very very light passes, and make the first few practically a dusting. Allow them to fully dry, so you have a basecoat down for the restof the paint to adhere to. You want to paint over the paint, not the acrylic. So just do 4 or 5 quick quick dustings of paint. If it isn't enamel or lacquer based paint, it will wash off. So, seal it with a good clear acrylic spray paint like Krylon Crystal Clear etc. Use similar steps painting this onto the window, as it will not adhere well to the acrylic either.

-Dave

[Ookazoo]

First . . . some pictures!

The cut. The ugly bump on the right side is where the latch came out, I will file that down later.
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/716805010020e.JPG

The other side (notice protective masking tape)
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/539705010021e.JPG

The fuzzy jigsaw, at the scene of the crime
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/750805010022e.JPG

I am very stoked to have finished this cutting part, the jigsaw noise is scary! To cut on the narrow sides I found a piece of wood that was as tall as the edge for the jigsaw to rest on. Even though the jigsaw wasn't directly against the metal, the blade was long enough to cut no problem. Unfortunately, the corners are messy, but I'm new at this, and I have enough room to file them out. Next step is to file it all to perfection, then paint it with enamel.

Tybrenis, thank you for your insight. When I think about it, it doesn't really matter if UV light goes the the lexan or not, because I'm only concerned with the visible light that comes out when things react to the UV. I shall have my facts correct next time. Also, thank you for the paint advice, I wouldn't have figured that out otherwise.
Will non-washable liquid paint stick better or worse? (see krystally's links)

Dfigravity, thank you for the UV CCFL advice. I was looking at those before, and now I have confirmation.

That wraps it up for todays edition of "Simplest Mod Ever," I'll post more pictures when more happens.

[tybrenis]

The paint that you mentioned might work a little bit better than a waterbased paint, but the difference will be nominal. As long as you go slow and take your time with ultra thin coats, either paint will be absolutely fine. Just don't forget to clearcoat.

[Ookazoo]

Hi everyone! I have an update on the window's progress!

Pictures:

I used this enamel to seal the raw metal from the cut, the color is to match the case
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/519205040001e.jpg

This is the newly painted window hole
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/68505040004e.jpg

I filed the edges to make them nice, and they're straight enough. I used a dremel tool on the curves, because it was round and it filed faster. Once this drys, I'll glue the lexan on! For that I plan to use 5-minute epoxy mixed up in a cup and distributed with a foam brush. Does that sound good? Tybrenis, will that 5-minute epoxy work with lexan and steel? The next step will be to order the UV paint and lights.

This quite simple mod is winding down, I'm excited!

[Ookazoo]

I've FINISHED!

picture time!

Front side, unfortunately the lighting isn't optimal
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/599505050002.JPG

This is the back side, notice how the lexan doesn't cover the whole thing, I'll explain that later
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/440905050003.JPG

This is a flash shot of the computer when its off. It kinda sucks.
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/407505050007.JPG

This is a no-flash shot of the computer when its on. The light in there is coming from LEDs on the motherboard and in the power supply
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/393905050008.JPG

The reason why the lexan is offset is because I cut the hole too close to the edge. Otherwise it would have been to fat to fit against that piece of metal, and a real hassle to fix. Overall, I am very pleased. The curvey corners turned out nice, and the enamel was perfect. I will order the UV CCFLs as soon as I can, along with some UV paint to go with it.

EDIT: Unfortunately, no Ultra brand UV cold cathodes are on the internet, so would this (http://www.xoxide.com/cathode.html) be good? What about this (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=95&products_id=3651)? Keeping in mind that I plan to install my own switch and cutting up a molex would be an inconvenience.

My dad suggested putting a mirror at the bottom to reflect out more light, what do you think?

[Ookazoo]

Update Party!

I ordered this UV light (http://www.xoxide.com/uv-meteor-light.html). I liked that one because it has the cool control over the flashing of the LEDs. I would have gotten the Ultra brand CCFLs, but they were out of stock.

I got this UV paint (http://www.xoxide.com/blueuvpaint.html). I will follow tybrenis' advice (thank you) for painting it. I'm kinda bogged down with school for the next few weeks, so it'll be a while till I get the chance to work on it.

I'm a little worried though. Will the UV paint be clear enough to be acceptable on the lexan?

[DaveW]

Try it on a scrap piece. It's the only way to be sure.

-Dave

[Ookazoo]

Well I don't have a scrap piece, but there is a little edge that doesn't show (see above pictures). I'll use that.

What do you guys think of the meteor lights?

[Eclecticos]

Kewl, That turned out preddy good. +Rep
If I were you Id put a circle and a fan on there somewhere. Say 120mm?i!

What are meteor lights?

[Ookazoo]

Oooh, thats a good idea. I could somehow incorporate a fan into the pattern that I spray on with the UV paint.

See the link for the UV lights I got to find out what meteor lights are. They are basically LEDs in a cold cathode type tube, the advantage is that they can be put to flash in different patterns.

Also, I'm planning on putting the switches for the lights on the side of the computer with the window, since that is the side that is facing me now. I will drill holes in the side to mount the switches. Would it look better with a brushed aluminum plate to mount them on? Where would I get a plate if I wanted one? And what is the best way to write on it? Also, Can I wire two lamps to one switch?

The white part is where I would mount the switches. (The computer sits on the floor to my right)
http://www.lotechdesigns.com/host/images/8454PC case.jpg

Tell me what you think

[Ookazoo]

Update!!

My paint and my UV lights came!! Unfortunately, the geniuses at Xoxide sent me orange UV paint, instead of blue. I am working on getting that fixed. The lights are really cool! They flash and sing and dance and everything! I'm pleased to see that I will easily be able to replace the switches, and to improve conditions, I am going to spruce up the wiring inside the case. This weekend I will be placing the lights.

Party with meteor lights!!