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Andrew1977
05-28-2007, 04:47 PM
I picked up some Rustoleum primer from home depot ( don't like HD but it was buy 2 cans and get one free. ) and the nozzles frankly suck. Does anyone have any suggestions on replacing the nozzles with another one?

I have krylon with the very nice blue tips but they don't fit the Rustoleum's plastic pin tip. I know it's a pretty strange question but hoping someone can give me an idea.

jdbnsn
05-28-2007, 06:38 PM
I wouldn't mess around with it, they are too inexpensive to bother. Just take them back and swap them out for new ones. You may already know this, but when you are using spray cans, always turn them upside down each time you are done using them and spray them until the nozzle clears. It will help prevent that.

tybrenis
05-28-2007, 06:40 PM
You can buy new nozzles, but it's honestly not worth it for the price of spray paint. However, if you really want to, check out some graffiti art sites, they sell new nozzles.

Eclecticos
05-28-2007, 09:40 PM
O yea. . NY Thins, Fat Caps, Chisel Tips, SkinnyMinnys :D, Rustos, Bananna's, Gold Dots, German Liners.

HERE (http://www.bombingscience.com/shop-tips.htm) is the link they are real cheap.
Don't paint anything thats not yours.

tybrenis
05-28-2007, 10:00 PM
O yea. . NY Thins, Fat Caps, Chisel Tips, SkinnyMinnys :D, Rustos, Bananna's, Gold Dots, German Liners.

HERE (http://www.bombingscience.com/shop-tips.htm) is the link they are real cheap.
Don't paint anything thats not yours.

+rep

Commando
05-28-2007, 11:57 PM
Dude,

It's primer. It doesn't matter. You should be sanding it smooth anyway. So don't worry about it being an even application.

Andrew1977
06-02-2007, 12:02 PM
Well Commando was right. Primer went on streaky but a few coats and some wet sanding made it really smooth out. :)

After I wet sanded it and wiped it down with denatured alcohol I started spraying some color. The paint I used is Dupli-Color T176M (Red with metal flake in it) Truck,Van, & SUV paint.

The guide I'm using is the one in MaximumPC Guide to Extreme PC Mods. In that the author paints the top of his with metal flake paint and advises not to sand it directly but to clear coat and then sand the clear.

Guide is great but my project is a little different in that the red w/metal flake is the color of graphics that will be laid out and then I plan to use some black without metal flake to spray the case again.

Question I have now is when should I wet sand the case? After spraying the black and removing the masks or after the clear coat? :?

I thought about sanding the black while the masks were still on but the design has a lot of small parts
and I'm worried about screwing up the red underneath them.

Any advice?

tybrenis
06-02-2007, 12:12 PM
The guide I'm using is the one in MaximumPC Guide to Extreme PC Mods. In that the author...


That author is the owner and Admin of this site.

As for wetsanding, I wouldn't sand with the masks still on. Lightly wetsand between coats if you think its necessary then clearcoat and wetsand that up to 2000 or 2500 for a glossy clear finish.

Crimson Sky
06-02-2007, 02:56 PM
As I explained in the book (for those chaps that haven't bought it YET) wet sanding a flake paint might have the tendency to dull the small particals of metal in the paint. Since you are using two colors/types of paint, wet sanding would most likely discolor them as well, creating a muddy, frustrating mess.

In your case, only wet sand the primer coats and the final clear coats. Make sure you get at least 3-4 coats of clear on and wait a few days for it to cure before wet sanding. If your coverage was nice and even, you should only see milky white color in the water as you sand, and not color. You really only need to hit the clear up with some 1200-1600 grit, then final polish with rubbing compound (which is about 2400 Grit) and lastly a hand glaze to bring out the mirror shine.

Glad the book is helpful! Welcome to TBCS ;)

Andrew1977
06-02-2007, 03:02 PM
a week? ack!

Does high heat and low humidity effect drying time alot? I live in Phoenix, AZ. and the temps are about 100 degrees at this time of year during the day time.
Should I be concerned with paint drying too quickly?

Crimson Sky
06-02-2007, 03:12 PM
a week? ack!
Should I be concerned with paint drying too quickly?


YES. At high ambient temps, the paint will dry in the air before it even reaches the surface of your case. This is especially true of flat paints and primers. It creates an uneven, pebbly texture. Your best bet is to find a cool garage space (spray paints are ideal in 70-80 degree temps) and never paint in direct sunlight, or when your PC case is too warm or was left in the Sun. Store your paints in a cool, dark place. You might try cooling the cans in a bucket of cold water for 30 minutes prior to painting, and do all the prep/masking in an air conditioned room.

Low humidity is a GOOD thing when painting FYI.

I know I hate waiting for paint to dry and cure. It's one of those things where patience is a virtue. Paint that is not cured will leave a gummy mess when sanding, and cause much cursing and complaining as you run to the store to get laquer thinner and a bunch of rags to remove it all.

Andrew1977
06-02-2007, 05:01 PM
Our garage is kind of messy since I am cleaning it at the moment (have been for 5 months now).

If I have no choice but to paint outside is there any advice you can give me? Also is letting the panels dry in the sun a good or bad idea?

Crimson Sky
06-02-2007, 05:57 PM
Maybe you can rig up a tarp to keep the sun off of the work. Sun=Bad. You'll also want to keep it contained with some scrap cardboard sides or a big box so flying debri/pollen/bugs don't get stuck in the fresh paint. Bugs are particularly drawn to paint odors.