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silent tone
07-15-2007, 01:36 AM
Overview
I'm posting this to try to save you guys a little time and money if you ever find that you need to join two bits of aluminum (or brass or galvanized steel) together and bolts, rivets, glue, JB weld, etc. doesn't quite suit your needs. Some features of this is that it can produce a nice, clean finish and a very strong joint. It is also a lot easier than welding. I've never welded anything in my life and the professionals agree that welding aluminum is difficult, so I skipped that option altogether.

What I'm going to cover here is the use of a specifc type of brazing rod called DuraFix. I don't want to be a shill, but after trying some nickel-silver brazing rod, this was easier and produced better results and supposedly doesn't produce toxic fumes. With regular brazing materials, you'll also need to apply flux to the parts and heat up your components without burning the flux or melting the parts, yet still getting it hot enough for the brazing rod to flow. The first brazing rod I tried had a melting point around 1100 F if I recall correctly. Durafix melts at 732F.

Supplies:
All available at your local home improvement store.
A vise, c-clamp or fire-bricks to hold your workpiece. (regular bricks or concrete can explode if they reach the temperatures that you might achieve in brazing).
Welding goggles/mask number 3 to 5 shade level
Gloves (heat resistant welding gloves are best, but mine are just leather)
Stainless steel bristle brush (it's crucial to use SS bristles)
Mapp gas torch
bucket-o-water

Special purchase
Brazing rod (http://durafix.com/) They have an instructional video there as well.

Safety
Do this in a well ventilated area. Don't huff the fumes.
Burning Mapp gas produces harmful UV light, so wear appropriate protection. Sunglasses are not appropriate. If you decide to ignore this, at least try to limit direct line of sight to the flame and look out for sore or itchy eyes. Stop - it's the UV causing that.
Do your brazing in a clean area without flammable materials around. You want to be able to immediately set down your still hot, turned-off torch if problems arise. No sparks will fly, but an occasional drop of melted rod can drop off your workpiece.

The goods
http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/7377/setupcc5.jpg
Here is my setup. The torch in this picture is not the one that I currently use. This one is a fuel and oxygen torch. It is hot enough for some welding, has a tiny tip and uses up the oxygen very fast. This is not the best workspace. Having a bench and a larger area would be nice. It's cramped because it is on my apartment balcony.

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/9967/safetyip3.jpg
To keep from burning the whole building down, I have this close by.

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/731/torchsp0.jpg
Here is my current torch. It can use Mapp or propane and has no second valve for oxygen. Plain air is sucked into the openings in the middle of the tip. Bernzomatic has a table describing temperatures of the various gases but it boils down to propane is hot, Mapp is hotter, acetylene is hotter still, and all of them are a good bit hotter combined with an oxygen feed. If you go the oxygen route, I suggest getting a real tank at a local welding supply. Under normal temperatures, oxygen doesn't like to go to a liquid state, so you're only getting a few ounces of compressed O2 in the little cylinders at Home Depot. Mine lasted about 15 minutes during my first test runs. When using this torch to heat anything bigger than an couple ounces of aluminum, turn it up full blast and hold the tip about an inch away from your material. If the handle gets hot, take a break to let it cool down. You don't want the gas to ignite prematurely. I haven't done this yet, but it would probably take at least 20 minutes at full-blast to become a risk. Also keep the head of the tank elevated so that liquid fuel doesn't flow into the line and out the torch.

I initially tried using one of the fist-sized, mini butane torches as suggested by some tutorials on the internet and although it can reach high temperatures, it doesn't put out enough heat to work with anything larger than a few coins.

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/1485/holdingtabspc4.jpg
Aluminum is soft, so to protect my workpieces while they're clamped, I use some angle aluminum bits inside the jaws of the vise or c-clamp or locking pliers so that no steel ever touches the soft aluminum. Make sure they're free of burrs too. I'm going to cut some larger ones without the holes to exert less pressure with a smoother surface as the workpiece can become a little soft without melting when heated up to working temps.

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/320/mountts5.jpg
As we all know, aluminum is an excellent heat conductor. So you should have as little contact with the workpiece as possible while still holding it securely. On this piece, I've brazed the tube on top to the rectangular base by putting the brazing rod inside the tube. The clamp that you see can hold it securely and still offer relatively little mass to transmit the heat to the giant black heatsink on the left. Holding your workpieces together is crucial as well. Rubbing the brazing rod all over the pieces will knock them around without being secured. For this piece, I had some snug washers to slip around the tube and another c-clamp and locking pliers to hold those down in position on the rectangular base.

The actual process of brazing is best demonstrated by the video on the durafix website. I'll only add that my Mapp gas torch heats the workpieces maybe five-times slower than what you see in the video. I'm also still not as good at getting the rod to flow smoothly.

http://img456.imageshack.us/img456/4669/clevisbt7.jpg
Here is a nearly finished part. I still have some more finishing to do, but you can see it is fairly smooth. This is about the 5th joint I've brazed in my life and it came out quite well. That clevis sticking out is held in quite securely. If I tried to rip it out, the aluminum would probably tear before the joint would fail. The brazing material is also harder than aluminum, so care should be taken when you file or sand it down to keep everything smooth and flush. To get that finish, I swiped away excess brazing material with a wet, folded paper towel while it was still melted. Then I filed the joint down with a small hand file, then I used some 200 grit sandpaper, then some abrasive pads for the current finish.

These tips, along with the demo video, should be enough to get you safely started on brazing your own joints.

Spawn-Inc
07-15-2007, 03:35 AM
Wozers, thats some neat stuff. i'm gonna have to pick me up some of that and make a massive heatsink or something.

+rep for the find and work.

Eclecticos
07-15-2007, 07:11 AM
I actually have one of those out in the shop. . had no idea what it was for.
I'm gonna have to go get the air for it and try my hand at some brazing!
Great Tutorial! +Rep

calumc
07-15-2007, 07:39 AM
well i never knew that you could braze aluminium, but just out of interest what are those rods made of?

crazybillybob
07-16-2007, 05:08 PM
Great Article Silent!!!
I've been thinking about trying some of that rod...If it's that easy to work with I just might!

On a side note, a Brazed joint is not the same as a welded joint. In welding the metal in both parts is melted (at the point of the weld) and filler metal of the same type is added to reinforce the joint. In Brazing the parent metals (the two pieces) are heated to the melting point of a second metal that is used to fill the gaps between the two pieces. The filler metal my be harder and have some of the same properties of the parent metal, it's not the same. For most things done in PC modding this Brazing Rod is 100% strong enough, so don't worry about it. Just don't go build / repair a car frame with it.


CrazyBillyBob

Spawn-Inc
07-16-2007, 06:21 PM
yes crazy is right about the brazing. here isa brazed joint.

http://www.outsideconnection.com/gallant/hpv/sprung/1_20_2001/swingarmBrazedToAxle.jpg

and here is a welded joint.
http://home.kendra.com/mauser/bot/R12/PivotWelded.jpg

notice on the brazed joint its a goldish colour and not the same colour as the parent metal like in the welded picture.

calumc
07-16-2007, 08:00 PM
yes i know exactly what the difference between them is and i'm well ablt to do both. I've spent countless hours in school learning the boring side of cool stuff like this but i was just wondering are these different rods from the normal spelter used for steel etc.?

Spawn-Inc
07-17-2007, 12:13 AM
i figured i would just show what the difference for those you might not know. and as for what those rods are made of not really sure but i would guess, tin, lead, aluminum, maybe zinc. just all guess's.

calumc
07-17-2007, 08:23 AM
well normal spelter for brazing steel is made from brass and as far as i know you cant do aluminium with them

crazybillybob
07-17-2007, 08:35 AM
Your going to have a hard time finding out exactly whats in that rod, as each company has their own proprietary formula that they like to keep to them selves. The fact that it melts at 732 tells you it's tin lead alloy (or lead substitute), it's going to have some zinc in it this helps it adhere to zinc and helps with oxidation prevention. If there is any aluminum in the mix,there's very little (it melts at 1400degF) as it would raise the melting temp well above the 732 listed. There's also bound to be some trace elements in it that aid in cleaning and bonding.... Many companies sell a brazing rod for Aluminum, silent just choose DuraFix for his article (it is also a popular brand).

Cal, My explaining the difference between Welds and Brazes was not in response to your question. There are few people on the forum that weld, and we as a community (of Modders) need to inform and teach those that don't. It really isn't that hard, it just takes the tools and practice.

CrazyBillyBob

calumc
07-17-2007, 08:57 AM
sorry bout dat crazy, i was just curious as to what is in these because i have always been told that all you can do with aluminium is weld it with a TIG which is supposedly extremely hard to do (i've never tried)
But i would say to anyone that wants to try this and doesn't have any experience of welding or brazing to just go for it because it's the kinda thing that you can learn with a few minuites of trial and error.

Eclecticos
07-17-2007, 12:28 PM
yes crazy is right about the brazing. here isa brazed joint.

notice on the brazed joint its a goldish colour and not the same colour as the parent metal like in the welded picture.

Thats why you do a Silver Brazing, with silver Brazing Rods. So you don't end up with that God awful Yellow color.

crazybillybob
07-17-2007, 01:56 PM
Thats why you do a Silver Brazing, with silver Brazing Rods. So you don't end up with that God awful Yellow color.

That yellow color is Brass from the rods... There are many cases that you'd use brass over silver..plus most guys that are brazing only keep brass around because it's the most flexible to use (Ie it works well on more metals). It's used allot on cast Iron, because it's expansion rate and ductility is close to that of cast iron.
The silver brazing is used mostly on white metals (zinc, Aluminum, pot metal, etc).

Cal,
The fact is you can weld (not braze) Aluminum with a TIG, MIG, DC buzz box (electric Arc welder) (takes a special rod), or with oxy-Acetylene (takes an aluminum specific flux, and can cause more aluminum oxide to form in the weld..untill your good at it). Now I will say that I have not welded aluminum all these ways, but I've talked with older welders that have and read the manuals that explain how it's done.... My Mig will be switched over to Aluminum here soon (need a weekend that I'm not working or moving to switch it over and play!)
The thing with aluminum is that it takes a bit more heat, and is less forgiving then welding steel... best word of advice, Preheat! Get that Aluminum up to about 250-300degF before you spark up a bead (thinner sheet doesn't need the heat, but anything over about 1/8 inch...does).
If your really interested in welding Aluminum with something other then a TIG, do a Google search on it, there are many good sites that will show you the basics.

CrazyBillyBob

Spawn-Inc
07-17-2007, 03:45 PM
The fact is you can weld (not braze) Aluminum with a TIG, MIG, DC buzz box (electric Arc welder) (takes a special rod), or with oxy-Acetylene (takes an aluminum specific flux, and can cause more aluminum oxide to form in the weld..untill your good at it). Now I will say that I have not welded aluminum all these ways, but I've talked with older welders that have and read the manuals that explain how it's done.... My Mig will be switched over to Aluminum here soon (need a weekend that I'm not working or moving to switch it over and play!)
The thing with aluminum is that it takes a bit more heat, and is less forgiving then welding steel... best word of advice, Preheat! Get that Aluminum up to about 250-300degF before you spark up a bead (thinner sheet doesn't need the heat, but anything over about 1/8 inch...does).
If your really interested in welding Aluminum with something other then a TIG, do a Google search on it, there are many good sites that will show you the basics.

CrazyBillyBob


so you doo need flux for aluminum, when ever i messed around at work trying to weld it it just melts and get a skin (layer oxide) all over it. i was doing it with oxy-Acetylene. but yes i have heard tig is the best for aluminum. i would love to have a tig welder but i'm spending my money of my gaming rig right now. also i don't do nearly enough, though i guess if i had my own i would, welding to make it worth the supplies, and tig machine.

hd431
08-11-2011, 09:01 PM
Durafix
Alumiweld
Technoweld

Is it a braze, weld, both or neither?

Perhaps its a high temperature glue for Aluminum joining applied with a propane torch?

The rods composition is a secret but apparently they do contain some Magnesium and Manganese which strip the oxygen atoms away from the problematic
Aluminum surface oxide layer that the molten puddle is covering.

But this oxygen theft only happens with a little help when you must scratch the aluminum surface covered by the molten Durafix puddle with the stainless steel wire tool supplied. Scratch. Scratch.

. This triggers a chemical reaction and produces a lot of heat. They say enough to melt the now pure aluminum surface (maybe an atom of 2 thickness?) and allow perfect welding of whatever this Durafix stuff is onto the aluminum under it.

Actually very very clever.

Since a chemical reaction is taking place this stuff might qualify as unique type of aluminum glue.

The Manganese oxide and Magnesium oxides float to the top of the puddle.




Key things need to be done differently. If you use these rods like ordinary braze or weld rods you'll fail
and get inferior or no bonds at all. They show why. Some interesting science is involved with this stuff.

The bond is stronger than the aluminum. No flux is needed. No fumes are produced.
No need for welding goggles as there is no bright glare. No clean up needed unless you want to
grind and polish the join.

three good videos explaining how its used.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxtmt6QCVd8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bu2bq9ad0e0&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Sae51Xi4Sw&feature=related



other info and tips here.

http://durafix.com/

http://www.techno-weld.co.uk/product.html

http://www.alumiweld.com/