R2server

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Originally Posted by crazybillybob

crenn,
After cutting out that gear I'm not in a hurry to cut out a bunch of little bits of aluminum. how would I hold the alum to the face? I'm still not sure wear will be that big of a deal, I mean realy old windmills had wood gears, they wouldn't have used them if they didn't work well!?!
If wear and tear get to bad on the wood gear I can always make a plastic one! I can cut it out myself (a prospect I'm not happy with but would do) or send it to the laser cutters, easier but more expensive in the long run.

Thanks for the Idea not sure how to do it "the right way" though??:? ?? and it's allot of work to do wrong.:eek:

Crazybillybob

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I was meaning one long thin strip (not so thin that it will tear easily) stuck on the gears with contact cement/rubber. And I think you may be right about the windmills being made only with wood.... but I think they had 'peg gears' (I think that's what they're called). Although plastic ones would be better.... so if you can get a rubber gear track which should help prevent the shreding of the wooden gears.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rankenphile

So, a new shoulder, eh?


...Got any mods planned for it? :D

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The Docs already did the mod about 4-5years back....I've got one heck of a scar to prove it! I Just have issues with muscle spasms and weather some times.. It's getting better, now as long as I don't have to shovel anmore snow for a week or two It will be all good!


Crazybillybob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crenn

I was meaning one long thin strip (not so thin that it will tear easily) stuck on the gears with contact cement/rubber. And I think you may be right about the windmills being made only with wood.... but I think they had 'peg gears' (I think that's what they're called). Although plastic ones would be better.... so if you can get a rubber gear track which should help prevent the shreding of the wooden gears.

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You know, treating the wood with some liquid electrical tape, or a similar ruberized treatment, would probably help prevent wear on the contacts and would be a lot less work than cutting out an aluminum strip on top. The stuff that they sell at hardware stores for dipping tool handles in would work well for it, you would jsut have to make sure that it has a good temperature resistance and would not stick to itself if it was set up in a gear mechanism like this.

Again, depending on the wood and the way the contact is made, it could all be a moot point. The quarter-inch plywood is pretty strong stuff, and as long as the contact is made gradually and not as a sharp impact, and you're not pushing a huge amount of weight, it should last a good long time.

Welcome R2 Fans, Today here in the hillbilly journal, is the Very Rigged Holo-Projector

Held together with electrical tape, masking tape and luck.

Here is a projected image in a lighted Room...:(

Not very impressive....But ok!

Here It is in a Darkened room (not pitch black but low lighting, much brighter then MML or any LAN I've ever been too!) :eek:

Much better. :D

Yeap, I know the images is backwards, the Lens inverts it when projecting. I flipped it top to bottom to take care of the inversion but never thought of the left to right till I saw this image on the wall….I’ll fix it before the LCD is mounted permanently.


Now mind you this is with an A/C Light, and it seems to give it a yellow cast that isn't show in the pics.

I've ordered one of these 1W Ultrabright LEDs From All Electronics. I'm hoping that it will be bright enough to replace the A/c Bulb. I also ordered some 6"x12" copper clad board to make the slip ring out of, we'll see how that goes when it gets here.

Now I'll move on to moving the PCB for the LCD inside the Projector case, and making it so the wires pass out the rear of the unit.

Thanks for stopping by, let me know what you think!

Crazybillybob

Awesome.

Are you sure a 1W LED is going to do the job? If you're going to replace it, I would recommend using a Luxen LED, they're better if I remember correctly, Find something with high Lumens and get that.... as long as it's price is within limits....

Apparently you need to get another lens to fix the image... but you'll need to work out where to put it to give you your image in the correct orrientation. I did Physics for a while so I might be able to help...

the 1w LED is a Lexon....Just the 1W kind...the 5w ones are a little out of my price range right now....If my wife ever finds out I spent $12 on 1 led she'll kill me as it is!

As for the image I have a lensless solution, I'll flip it over, since it's transperant it will not be an issue! (In theroy right now) I'll let you know if I need help with another lens (hopefully it just works without one :)

Crazybillybob

I see what you mean about the LEDs being expensive:
http://www.ledsales.com.au/cart.php?...category_id=10

I would recommend putting in a convex lens to focus the image, because the picture in a projector is displayed upside down and backwards (if I remember correctly) the convex lens focuses and fixes this problem.
But if you're determined to do it without a lens, then good luck. I don't remember GFx cards with the ability to mirror the image on a screen... but you might be able to find a piece of software that will do that.

Wow.. All I can say "Kick F'n A". Looks like it worked out fine to me.. Per the projector forums I have read, just flipping the LCD should fix your problems no sweat.. Really a nice touch for your R2 unit..

BTW.. anybody tell you lately... You da man?? cuz you da man!!.. heh

Geez, I leave for a whole week to go to Vegas, and come back and still no updates on R2? I'm mighty disappointed in you, Billybob.

:D