R2server

I was going to use something like that (mechanism) in a mod, but suddenly i can't for the life of me remember where i needed it. It must have been for my fallout case somewhere, but i've got it all sketched out, and not 'held in memory'. Anyone else pour ideas onto paper like so much theme park vomit? I don't remember half of them, but my sketches serve me well.

Dammit! I just can't seem to stick to the topic! I was going to say that the wear on tear on those parts will probably outlive some other parts on the R2. I have a question: you thought about how you're going to ventilate that thing? With a computer, all the movement circuitry, the HDD's for running the bugger as a server, not to mention the Perojector and lens set up-the frame looks like it might make things a little hot and stuffy in there. Maybe a large fan, like from an old car radiotor put into the body, would help to pull air through and push it out through the bottom? Or are you hoping that passive cooling will cut the mustard in this scenario?

Just remembered where i wanted that mechanism-for my sliding door. Similar idea.

-Dave

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Originally Posted by DaveW

I have a question: you thought about how you're going to ventilate that thing? With a computer, all the movement circuitry, the HDD's for running the bugger as a server, not to mention the Perojector and lens set up-the frame looks like it might make things a little hot and stuffy in there. Maybe a large fan, like from an old car radiotor put into the body, would help to pull air through and push it out through the bottom? Or are you hoping that passive cooling will cut the mustard in this scenario?

Just remembered where i wanted that mechanism-for my sliding door. Similar idea.

-Dave

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I have some places in the skin that are open (Nicely cover with decritive vents) that will house some 80mm fans (If needed I have a place for some 120mm too) and will be ducted to the PC/HDD and Charging gear. For the Projector I'm trying to design it to run as cool as possible (hence the LED light sources), The dome is all Aluminum, so it should add some cooling in that area, plus some of the dome Pie wedge shapes are going to be able to open, so I can mount a fan in there to help cool that if needed as well.). Hopefully heat will not be an issue (as fans use power...that means the more fans the less run time) but I will not know for sure till I get all the peices installed.
I'm also needing to know how much current this R2 unit will need when charging. My guess is 5-7Amps AC, but I'll have to double check that at a later date.

Crazybillybob

Sounds complex, but you definately got what it takes to pull it off, looking at what you've done so far. What sort of battery are you going to use in there? I'm assuming that you're chucking the battery that came with the scooter-and a car battery's probably too clunky and heavy, right?

-Dave

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Originally Posted by DaveW

Sounds complex, but you definately got what it takes to pull it off, looking at what you've done so far. What sort of battery are you going to use in there? I'm assuming that you're chucking the battery that came with the scooter-and a car battery's probably too clunky and heavy, right?

-Dave

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Actualy I'm useing tha Batteries that came with the scooters, just for running the scooter motor. Their already wired for 24V I think there 4.5 or 7AH (don't remeber off hand) and with 200Lbs on a scooter made for 100Lbs they ran for 1H+...Hay I needed to make sure it worked before I tor it all apart!

I'm looking at a 12V 12AH Batt to run the PC, American Science & Surplus has them for $9.95. I was planing on running 2 of them in parrallel that will give me 12V @ 24AH.....That should be some nice long run Time on the PC.
Down side is with 6 Batts that is about 40# of weight added to R2....I'm afraid he maybe a heavy little fella (150#+).

My big issue is the charging system. I need to find away that when I plug R2 in that the PC switches to the AC power unit with out rebooting. As well a way to protect the Drive battery charges, so that the when charging the batteries are disconnected from the load. I think I can do this with a set of DPST switchs...Just haven't put allot of time in figuring it out yet.


Crazybillybob

Have you thought about canibalizing a UPS system for the changing of batteries and Plug power??

might want to remove the Buzzer or you might think your system is having a problem at high loads (sorry DN had to say it)

I was actually thinking the same thing. I have a UPS system that I love, and it switches from AC to DC without a problem.

The problem with UPS are their so dang inefficent on Batteries, Has to do with the production of AC from DC, and This Rig runs on DC any way.... The power supply that I'm looking at is rated up to 24VDC, so I think if I just run the AC conveter in Parrallel with the BATT line I'll be ok that way, then have a Set OF DPST toggles like for the drive charger, that disconnect the load before enableing the chagering I'll be ok......If I get some time tommorrow I'll scetch up a little drawing on how the charging switchs should work (at least in my mind).


Thanks for the ideas,
Crazybillybob

For all those Readers at home that are keeping Score, I laid down my first beads in MI last night (welded)....And my garage is still Standing (there was some unfounded concerns about me starting a fire with the torch in my family!). I was able to Weld the channel into the center foot last night.

I weld much better then I braze...(the braze is the brassy gold color in there)

I also ran into some issues while trying to mount the doors. It seems that as the fiberglass has finished curing and aged it has flattened out. So I'm trying plan B. I'm going to make up a plywood Door Frame then mount the styrene to it. (Note separating the Styrene from the Fiberglass was a nightmare...Gorilla Glue does a Very good job keeping it where you put it!)

I'm going to do a little more design work, as the setup pictured allows the door to flex to much and nothing lines up right.

Also I looked deeper into the motor mount issue. As you can see in this pic there is no way that the motor & Motor mount will fit into the foot shell this way.

So I'll be cutting it in these locations and flipping ever thing over (mount the motor on the outside of the plates where it is on the inside now). This should make everything line up just for the left foot instead of the right.

Not bad for 3.5 hours work :) I hope to get the motor mount cut up tonight, and maybe the door frame finished.

Thanks for stopping by, and come back soon,
Crazybillybob

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Originally Posted by crazybillybob

The problem with UPS are their so dang inefficent on Batteries, Has to do with the production of AC from DC, and This Rig runs on DC any way.... The power supply that I'm looking at is rated up to 24VDC, so I think if I just run the AC conveter in Parrallel with the BATT line I'll be ok that way, then have a Set OF DPST toggles like for the drive charger, that disconnect the load before enableing the chagering I'll be ok......If I get some time tommorrow I'll scetch up a little drawing on how the charging switchs should work (at least in my mind).

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Ok, Here is one of the Diagrams I was talking about (It's for the Motor Drive Charging).

Let me know what you think.

Crazybillybob

Ok,
Here's the Diagram for the AC to DC power switching for the PC.

Let me know if you see some thing amiss.

Thanks,
Crazybillybob