like the sleeveing mate looks great
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like the sleeveing mate looks great
Ditto what the others have said on sleeving the cathodes, that is just excellent. +rep
So far the cathodes have been running 2 hours and no melting of the sleeving, yet. ;)
Here's a little teaser:
They don't call em cold cathodes for ****s 'n giggles.
Ok, teasin' again.
I wonder what this is?
I'd rep you for the cathode idea, but I don't have any rep that I know of. >__<
Mind if I try it sometime in the future?
#46: A little tip: Look at my post (#45). Right next to it, there an icon of a heart with a green plus sign. Click it. I dare you. Click it. :)
Oh, and just go ahead using the sleeving CCFL's idea. It's not like it's patented or anything...
oh good, I can call off the lawyer.
anyway, +rep for an awesome project
love the cathode wrap man , wayy clean.
It's been a while since my last update, so here's another huge one...
In the meantime a lot has happened. For some good reasons I cannot reveal everything in this update (see the next update, which I'll post RIGHT after this one).
Last time I showed you a video of me filling the loops. Oh, and yeah, I showed a teaser picture, too. More on that picture in the next update ;)
Ok, prior to filling the loops, I had installed the pumps on the XSPC reservoir:
I had decided not to sleeve the pump wires, since they'd be hidden on they way up to the Aquaero:
The reservoir is now in place:
Ok, put the bottom radiator in and installed the dust filters on the intakes. I had to remove app. 1,5 mm. of material from one side of each filter to bring the spacing between the inner mounting holes down to 15 mm., to fit the standard mounting hole spacing of the fans on the radiator:
Radiator in place:
Worked on Cable management for the fans on the bottom radiator. Of course I don't want them to just lie there in the bottom of the case:
I had to remove one of the corners on the backside case fan. Otherwise, I'd run into spacing problems with the draining system for the lower loop::
As seen from the outside, this is the backside case fan:
Also sleeve a short cable for the S-SATA HDD:
The new Corsair HX620 PSU would't sit all the way into the case, due to the top radiator taking up all the space, so I had to pull it out slightly. I found some spacers to attach the PSU to the case:
Didn't like the brass surface, so I heat-shrink'ed it. Looks MUCH better, IMO:
Additional pictures of the assembly process:
This is what was left from 2 metres of tubing after I was done putting both loops together:
Add coolant to the loops - you've already seen the video, so here are the pictures:
Had ordered some Bitspower low-profile plugs for my Bitspower X-adaptors:
Yeah, there actually much more low-profile than the old plugs:
Not a lot of room left when the X-adaptor is in place on the bottom radiator. There's a gap of app. 1,5 mm. between fan and plug - and app. 1 mm. between grill and plug:
In the end there was room for everything:
While testing the Aquaero'en I managed to erase its firmware (don't ask why it's even possible to do so!)...
It happened while I was trying to reset it to factory defaults - using a key combination that I held TOO long (we're talking of 4-5 seconds too long here) the firmware was erased completely and now I have to ship the device to Germany to be fixed. As I said: don't ask why they included an option to erase the firmware completely, rendering the device utterly useless. And don't ask why they opted to put it on the same key combo used for resetting the device. Really stupid, if you ask me! Fortunately, they've removed this "feature" from the Aquaero v.4, but since I have a v.3.07, I had to send it to Germany. Sigh....
Oh well, while it was on its way to Germany, I used the homemade fan controller. And that means lots of cable mess:
Fortunately, it's absolutely free to have your damaged Aquaero repaired at Aqua Computer (well, at least for damage like this). Free for anybody - not just me, hehe. They put the latest firmware on it and sent it quickly back to me. All I had to cover were the shipping costs.
And now it's back:
So I sleeved the USB cable that connects the Aquaero to an internal USB port:
... and tested it:
Lo and Behold, it works - however, it has some trouble powering 2 fans connected to the same channel. It's as if it's distributing most of the power to only one of the fans. I don't know why it's acting like that, but I must change my plans due to that. Originally, I had planned to connect the RPM wire of the 2 pumps to 2 channels on the Aquaero, so it would shut down the computer in case of a pump malfunction, but now I'll have to use the fan headers on the motherboard for that task. Which means the Aquaero will control 4 fans (2 on each radiator), one connected to each channel. And since that's the number of fans it was meant to control, everything's fine and dandy, I guess. This also leaves me with some additional fan controlling options. Eg. now I can switch of one of the fans (or maybe even both) when there's no need for it - the Aquaero will automatically turn on the fan when it's needed, which could be nice.
Join me for the next update that will reveal some major stuff!
Remember the teaser pic?
Well, the package has arrived:
And who sent it?
And what's in it?
Haha, can you feel it?
Yes, ladies and gentlemen. Once again this project changes direction (and platform). Really, it wouldn't be a Nutman worklog if it didn't contain something totally unexspected once in a while, would it now?
I was tempted and bought this:
And then I had to buy this:
It's a D0 and, according to Google, from a pretty good batch:
And these:
And now I think it's time to reveal a new sponsor:
Specialtech.co.uk agreed to sponsor an EK EVGA X58 SLI LE fullblock for the new motherboard. Thanks a lot!
Adrian at Specialtech.co.uk sent this reply to me, after I asked for a sponsorship:
"Sounds like a great plan. We have been down the sponsorship route before but more recently lots of people let us down by either never finishing the build, losing interest or never really starting it but it's about time we started to trust people again and get back in the game. We'd be happy to send you this block in return for the mentions you suggest.
Let us know your delivery details and we'll get one shipped off to you"
Those words hit a soft spot with me because it IS hard to get sponsors these days. Because some modders don't live up to their responsibility. It's INCREDIBLY important to be realistic and honest concerning your intentions and ambitions. Otherwise, you destroy the bond of trust between modders and sponsors. That's why I sent another email to Adrian, thanking him for the generous sponsorship and also asking if it was OK that I quoted his initial reply in this worklog - to which he replied:
"Please feel free to quote me, I guess some people don't actually understand that we still have to pay for the items they want on sponsorship and we all sit on pots of money and it won't matter to us etc...."
So REMEMBER! ALL of us are influenced from YOUR lack of realistic sense. Don't ask for sponsorships if you're not deeply serious...
Anyway, now when the cat's out of the bag, let's look at more shots of this incredible block::
Uuuh, another package popped in:
..... from yet another new sponsor:
Eddy from EK Waterblocks also wanted to join this project, so he agreed on sponsoring an EK Supreme HF for my I7 920. Thanks, Eddy!
Some more shots of the EK Supreme HF:
I also managed to buy a real EK-4890 block to replace the EK-4870 block currently installed on my XFX 4890:
So, now I have an I7 system, hehe. Sold the old motherboard, the old CPU and the old RAM modules...
Also bought this pretty little thing:
I'm going to use it for controlling all lights, replacing the ugly switches currently sitting in two of the 3.5" front plates. More on that in the next update (I hope...).
Got another box from Coolerkit.dk:
The explanation is that I had run out of IC7 while constantly changing CPUs, GPUs, cooling blocks, mobos and whatnot!
Also, I didn't really like the quality of the cuts I had made when cutting the tubes, when I in the previous update was putting the loops together. So, I wanted to see just how good such tubing scissors really are. Results will be on display in the next update...
Also got a box of casemodding stuff from another danish casemodder - it contained lots 'o goodies:
Going to use some of the stuff for this casemod (at least the UV CCFLs and the inverters - perhaps also the green CCFLs) and quite a lot of it can also be used in my next casemod, which I'm currently planning... (uuuh, exciting?)
Well, had to test all this new stuff, before installing the water blocks. Nothing beats the depressing feeling you discover that your system doesn't work after you've carefully assembled it and that you therefore have to take it apart again. It's a pain, trust me... so remember to test before installing water blocks:
Everything worked 100%, so I'm quite happy.
Then, I started installing water blocks and I started with the graphics card:
And then moved on to the motherboard:
Then, I sleeved the cables for the top UV CCFL tubes and nicely routed them through a P-clip alongside the wires for the 2 temperature sensors and the 2 fans sitting on the top radiator:
Finally, I installed the EK Supreme HF. Not much room between that and the motherboard block!
This is what it looks like with all blocks installed:
Also not much room between the graphics card block and the motherboard block:
And finally, some "candy-shots". Well, I can't do it better with my current camera and the lighting at my disposal. Will definately have to improve my photo skills for my next casemod:
So, yet another monster-update. And lots of surprises, I think.
In the future, I'll try to update more often, producing smaller (and easier to read) updates. ;)
Psssst... I'm modding again.
New update coming *soon*.
WooooHoooo!!!
Waaaaaaay too long since last update, but a lot has happened (as usual, one might say).
However, I don't have that many pictures to show you today, but much more will come later. Believe me!
First of all, I got a new camera: a Canon 550D and a Canon 24-105 mm. f/4 L IS USM lens. Nice gear, but I'm still learning to use it properly:
Let's get on with the work log.
As you migth remember, I had bought a hose cutter, so I wanted to test it.
I used to use a utility knife for cutting hoses and it looked fine. However, when looking a bit closer, the results were not that great:
So I tested the hose cutter:
And here's the result:
Muuuuch better, eh?
OK, suddenly I couldn't find my Kingston RAM, so I had to buy some new ones.
I got these which also fit the colour scheme much, much better:
I spent hell of a lot of time sleeving hell of a lot of cables - more on that in the next update, so here's just a little teaser.
It's the quick connector for the HDD LED, Power button, Reset Button and Power LED:
Yes, I had promised cutting down on the size of these updates, so I'll stop here for now.
Hopefully, you won't have to wait long until the next update. ;)
lookin good!
this project is looking good! How do you like that board?
EDIT: meant MOBO, I have been looking for a good x58 board.
Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by billygoat333
I haven't REALLY had any experience with the board yet. I just checked it was working and then put the waterblock on it. So the heavy testing is still to come. ;)
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by SXRguyinMA
A new update will be posted later today.
Super short gap between 2 updates, woohoo! ;)
Yes, it's all relative, but by my standards this is super short, hehe.
People had told me that they thought I should the fan cables all the way to the fan motor, so I started doing that. I "only" applied heat shrink on the part that wasn't sleeved by Nanoxia.
A "Before" and "After" shot:
All fans done:
Fans mounted on top radiator with UV CCFLs on each side:
Powered up:
I mounted the radiator and powered up the UV CCFLs:
Then I tidied up the fan and CCFL cables for the top radiator. I had bought some MDPC P-clips:
And some snap-caps to hide bolt heads:
Continued sleeving my PSU and the pump cables.
My girlfriend thought it'd be funny to photograph me in action while sleeving:
So I had to make a geeky photo of her aswell. She needed something to put into her hair for a party, so, naturally, I suggested MDPC sleeve. ;)
One last shot of the pumps after sleeving.
Here I am testing the pumps and, sadly, it sounds like one of them is only running at 3/4 speed. I'll have to monitor its RPMs using my Aquaero one of the next days:
Did lots of modding this weekend - mostly cable management, but also some other tasks.
For instance, I sleeved the non-modular cables of my PSU.
I didn't need the 4-pin EPS cable, så I cut it off internally and heat shrinked the stubs:
The 8-pin EPS cable was way too long, so I had to shorten it.
In this shot I am controlling the length:
Having found the correct length, I soldered the wires back together:
Earlier I had sleeved the ATX 24-pin cable (see the previous update, where I am heating up heat shrink), so the PSU is basically done - only need to sleeve the modular cables:
As mentioned in the previous update, I had finished sleeving the pumps, but during testing I could hear that one of the pumps were only running at 3/4 speed.
Or, at least I thought so...
I plugged in my Aquaero the get a read of the RPMs on each pump. Turns out that one of them was only running at 40% (app. 1550 RPM), while the "healthy" was running along nicely at app. 3750 RPM.
So I scratched my head over this for quite a while. I took the pump apart, checked the soldering, the magnets, the wires, etc.
Finally, I hit myself hard and switched the 5V+ and 12V+ wires so they sat like they were supposed to....DOH! ;)
Ok, now the pump was running fine again, so here are some shots of the final results:
Now, for a while I had been pondering on how to mount my Aqua Computer Multiswitch LT in the case.
Being a model LT it has no 5.25" mounting brackets, so it had to sit elsewhere in the case.
But then I had a look at the PCB and noticed the same mounting holes as on my Aquaero!
Got hold of some long bolts and attached the Multiswitch on the back of the Aquaero:
Nice solution, I think.....
Ok, since I was handling the Aquaero, I wanted to put some carbon film of the mounting brackets, as these didn't look too pretty:
You might have noticed that I put some longer bolts between the Multiswitch and the Aquaero. The black bolts were simply too short...
On to testing the Multiswitch:
Worked fine with LEDs, but for some reason some of the CCFLs (or maybe their inverters?) drew too much power, resulting in various errors such as Aquasuite crashing, CCFLs refusing to turn off, etc.
Really weird, but in the end I managed to find a good combination of CCFLs and inverters, so everything turned out just fine.
I had purchased a LED strip from Dioder-online.dk, which I'll cut in appropriate length and put behind the motherboard.
I tested it on the Multiswitch - it plugs directly into a 12V+ source and the light is very powerful! It apparently contains quite a bit of UV light, because all my UV reavtive stuff lights up when the LED strip is on. You can't see it with your eys, which will only see a bright, blue light - but the camera manages to catch it, as seen in this shot:
Commencing to cable management - what a crappy task.... min next case, which will be built from scratch, will definately be optimised for intelligent cable management. Just wait and see...
I will end this update with a couple of shots of the state of the case as of yesterday evening:
lookin good!
Cable management may be a crappy task, but you're making it look very nice. :up:
Thanks a lot.
I dunno about cable management - it's a strange thing...
Sometimes it 's just the worst task there is, and at other times it's almost like meditating (I imagine - I've never meditated) and you feel so happy and peaceful after having routed a cable in just THE right way.
And then it was time to light up the motherboard.
I measured and cut the LED strip:
And then I tested the cut strips:
Also had to test them under the motherboard.
One strip in each side of the motherboard panel:
I was satisfied with the result, but remembering how the LED strip also contained some light in the UV spectrum, an idea had come into my mind.
So, therefor...
Remember this one?
Hehe, yes, it's been a couple of years since I used it last time, but back then I DID tell you that I was going to paint some small details with UV-green paint.
And since this was a golden opportunity, let me show you what I came up with.
First I had to apply masking tape:
And since I was going to do a test in the non-visible part of the motherboard tray, I made this:
Hop to it:
I used an old plastic card to smear out the paint:
After leaving to dry for 5 to 10 minuts, I removed the masking tape:
Unfortunately, some glue residue remains, but this could be removed using benzine.
I started on the visible part:
After leaving it to dry for 10 minutes, I removed the masking tape. I was much more careful this time and this did result in lots less glue residue being left behind:
As you can see, the edges are a bit jagged. Nothing to do about that at this point, I guess, since I really tried my best to put the masking tape on the motherboard tray as flat as possible before I started to apply the paint. I guess this all comes down to the "quality" tape from 3M which I used.
Ok, on to testing with lights:
Next update coming soon.
looking good!
Nice! may i recommend Frog Tape for future striping efforts? Stupidly clean edge on that stuff.
Hm, dunno if that's available in Denmark.
Do you know the name of the maker?
Ah, nevermind - it's "Frog Tape", hehe. Licensed to Shurtape, but sadly not sold in Europe. :/
I would be happy pick some up and ship it out if you ever are in need sir. i think its about $5 a roll. If anyone needs it let me know!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutman
Thanks very much, but I think I'll try to find a danish supplier of a similar product.
I wanted to make the UV paint stripe a bit nicer with cleaner looking edges, so I tried pushing the tape really hard down on the surface to make it stick better (thanks to Cheapskate for the suggestion):
Off with the tape - for some reason there were no glue residue what so ever this time. Maybe because it had stuck better?
THAT'S more like it!
To test the new stripe, I had to sleeve and mount the SMD LED strips:
With the motherboard in place it looks like this:
The biggest part of the weekend was spent making cables, sleeving those cables and doing cable management - I can't tell whether it's insanity, meditation or just plain old self-tormenting, but these things take a huuuge amount of time!
First, I did the LED cables for the reservoir:
They look like this when mounted:
Then, I extended and sleeved the USB cable for the Multiswitch:
At the beginning of this project I had mounted a couple of LEDs in the front, pointing inwards - see these old pictures:
I had to make new cables for those:
The pumps also required power, so I shortened some of the modular cables for the PSU and only sleeved the wires being used:
Pumps connected to the PSU:
The Aquaero has a connection for 2 LEDs to show a status - eg. the cooling fluid temperature. And that's exactly what I'm going to use them for, so I drilled a couple of holes for 2 LEDs in the plastic piece sitting at the bottom of the front panel, just under the door:
And mounted the LED sockets:
Lit up:
And lit up after being mounted back on the front panel:
As you can see the green LED is too weak, so I'll have to replace that one.
And finally, a shot of the cable management behind the front panel - all done now. It took forever to complete, but I'm quite happy with it. Too bad it's out of sight, but I know it's been done properly and that's what really counts for me:
It's time for another surprise...
Because I hereby present you with the 6th graphics card during the lifetime of this build: HIS ATI Radeon HD6870
This package had arrived from my fantastic sponsor:
EK Waterblocks
And what could be in it?
Yes, of course:
The black tube is MasterKleer 15,9mm x 11,1mm. Unfortunately, it's not completely black. Under UV light it comes off as dark blue and it's not completely black in dayligth either - more of a very deep, deep blue. It's a bit disappointing, because I now can't use it for what it was intended for.
Which was to reduce the impression of too much tubing going on - you know, with these looong tubes going to and from the reservoir it all looked rather overwhelming and I thought that using black tubes for the long tubes would reduce this. I still like the idea, but I have to find other tubing to make it happen.
Those 2 LEDs are UV-LEDs, which I was going to use for illuminating the water in each reservoir chamber. However, I had found some spares in my stash and already sleeved those, so these 2 will go into my collection of spare LEDs...
Ok, let's take a closer look at that new full cover block:
It's very nice. As usual the craftmanship by EK Waterblocks is outstanding. And, also as usual, the package contains everything needed.
Let's mount the beast of the card:
It's lovely to see how the blocks almost appears to be wrapping itself around the components of the card:
Mounted in the case it looks like this:
The PCB of the graphics card is slightly brown - will have to do something about that, but of course I have a plan for that. More on that in one of the next updates...
The 6870 card will be needing power, so I sleeved the modular PCI-E cables:
And attached them nicely using P-clips:
The outcome was rather nice, if I may say so! The plan is to only run the ATX-cable on the backside of the motherboard tray. All modular cables will run on the sides underneath the top radiator. You will see more of that when I sleeve the rest of the modular cables - e.g. the the power cable for the Aquaero and Multiswitch:
This cable also runs underneath the top radiator and is nicely held in place using P-clips:
Yeah, not much room around the fittings on the top radiator:
I also made some extension cables for the fans that sit on the bottom radiator:
In fact, almost all cables in this build are measured to the exact lenght needed, cut shorter or extended before sleeving.
It requires quite some soldering and applying heat shrink before sleeving the cable and this entire process takes lots of time - in fact, I think I spent 1 hour doing just those 2 fan extension cables, but the end result is also very nice.
Ok, I also want to show you how I routed the cables for the front fans. They're connected to the motherboard (no more room on the Aquaero) and I aim at controlling them with BIOS.
I routed the cables in P-clips on top of the bottom radiator:
I'm not totally satisfied with the way the cables split and run to each fan:
I would like to strip both cables close together and have them routed in between the 2 fans. I might correct it later, if I am up for the task...
Remember the last update (it's really not hard - just scroll up a bit, hehe), where I drilled 2 holes for LEDs that were to show a status from the Aquaero? In my case this was to be the status of the water temperature of both loops.
I was really content with the amount of light (or lack thereof) of the green LED, so I bought another 2-coloured LED, so now I got 2. Both LEDs plugged into the Aquaero with a temperature sensor attached, I made this video:
Aquaero LED temperature output
I think it'll come out nicely in the end when the front panel is back in its place.
Now, one last thing to show you in this update is my experiments with light in the case.
I have tried a little of everything - blue, UV, white and green. In the end I had to realize that one colour wouldn't do. A combo had to be put in place to get a result like this:
Of course, it's hard to capture the lights on camera, but this is pretty close. I want the UV-reactive stuff to stand out, but not TOO much - and I want the interiors to be in slight darkness, but not TOO much darkness, hehe.
In the next update I'll show you how I made the lights, I promise - it's a bit special (=an old classic returns!), so I guess you can start looking forward to that...
I'll end this update by showing you some mood shots:
In the previous update I promised that I would show you how I made the lights for the case.
Do you remember this one?
Yeah, back in the day I had sleeved some CCFLs - with success. All you have to do is to remove the CCFL from the plastic tube (with violence and side-cutting nippers), put regular tape on the CCFL and then sleeve it.
Well, I now needed something similar to put some UV light into the case.
But I found the UV light to be too powerful. I wanted to hide the purple glare, but maintain the UV effect, so I needed some other light to blend in with the UV light.
So, what should one do?
Hell, easy. You just sleeve parts of the CCFL using the colour of choice:
In that way I am able to mix a bit of blue into the UV light:
I sleeved the last couple of cables.
First, the SATA power cable:
Yes, not complete yet, but that's because I still have some measuring to do (see why later in this update).
And the very last cable (I hope so!) was completed and sleeved. It's the power cable for one of the CCFL inverters:
Oh, I gotta mention that I shrunk the heatshrink on these last 2 cables using a lighter, as my trusty blow dryer had given up shortly before that.
It's kind of sad, because it had been with me all the way throughout this project and died shortly before the deadline - boohooo:
I had long been thinking about where to put the window frame from my old case:
I realised that it would look best on the door - which by now also looked a bit boring compared to the rest of the case.
So I went to the basement, drilled some holes and did some tapping:
Attached the window frame:
Yeah, the countersunk holes are not that precisely drilled, so some of the bolts stick out a bit:
But it's not really something you notice, unless you look really hard.
All in all I think it came out quite well:
Oh, and because this guy...
...said this...
...I had to replace these bolts...
...with these...
And... well, what can I say? Bill Owen was right. ;)
And, finally... my new kids!
That's all for this time - next time I hope to be able to show you some tubing work. :)
Looks like some nice progress. And yes Bill Owen was right, the new bolts look much better. :up:
those are your kids? mental images, mental images O__O
btw, thanks for the sweet idea on how to do multicolored CCFLs
Thanks.
I hope to complete the build this week, realising that I have made similar promises in the past. ;)
@StormRider: Yeah, go along and experiment a bit. Just remember to use the clear tape first in order to isolate the cord that runs on the outside of the CCFL. I haven't touched such one yet, but having been in contact with the output ports of a CCFL inverter, I know by personal experience how much juice those bastards can deliver - it hurts! ;)
The heat shouldn't really be an issue, but the coming weekend will show me if I'm right or wrong, since the rig will be used app. 16 hours each day.
Nopes, no tubing work this time.
I'm struggling a bit to put together some videos I made from the 1st start-up attempt. Until then, here's a historic update.
When I say "historic", it's because I'm happy to report that the machine is up and running at the time I'm writing these lines. There have been some initial problems and other small things exist that need to be fixed, but that doesn't mean you'll have to miss out on this pretty delayed update - so, here it is.
I finished the power cable for the SSDs:
And then I got a package from Highflow.nl- hopefully the last package for this build:
Among other items, it contained this EK Waterblocks backplate for my 6870:
And the last couple of Bitspower fittings, in order to be able to make the plumbing look nice and clean:
I has grown really tired of having to look at those half-white no-vibes rubber frames for the 120 mm. fans on the bottom radiator, so I got these instead:
Also got a new black backplate for the PSU, to replace the aluminium-coloured one:
And then there was some black tubing from XSPC in there aswell - 11,1 mm. ID and 15,9 mm. OD. Just like MasterKleer, but this is all black and doesn't respond to UV light at all:
Apparently, Highflow.nl also send some goodies along, just like eg. Coolerkit.dk do:
And, finally, some important tools for putting all the stuff into the case. Priceless if you want to avoid putting fingerprints on all your hardware. Yeah, I know - I should have got these earlier, but better late than never, hehe:
After having received some constructive criticism concerning the lighting in my photo, so I got some powerful lights to bounce light off walls, ceilings, etc. It's an acceptable solution until I build myself a light tent - and I think you can already see some improvement on the photos in this update:
Mounted the backplate on the 6870 - also super quality, like all other stuff I got from EK Waterblocks:
Some component legs were a bit too long on the 6870, so I feared them shorting out on the backplate.
Even though the backplate is made from aluminium, for some reason EK Waterblocks have chosen to paint it instead of anodizing it - anodized aluminium tend to remove the surface's electrical conductivity, but as it was "only" painted (at least that's what EK Waterblocks say on the product's homepage), I wouldn't want to risk anything - so I cut off the long legs using cutting nippers. And then there was enough space between the legs and the backplate:
And then I replaced the semi-white no-vibes rubber frames with the black ones on the bottom radiator:
I am currently producing a hopefully semi-entertaining video showing the first boot attempt.
Until then, you can take a look at this video, where I explain how to sleeve CCFLs:
How to sleeve CCFLs - the Nutman way
After posting the first boot attempt video (later today, I hope) I will probably post one last regular update showing the remaining works, before posting the final result, ie. final shots and my conclusion to this project.
looking good!
Thanks.
Ok, the first boot attempt video is now up.
Laugh at me while watching me suffer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrtaDcdgifw
ooh, that's sad.
and I just saw the sacrilege of the way you made those sleeved ccfls. I think I'm gonna cry about the wasted tube. :(
anyway, on a serious note, you know you can take the ccfl out of the tube without breaking it, and that way you can have a sleeved ccfl and still have a tube to use later? as soon as I can re-remember how to do it, I can put up a mini-guide, if you like
Please do so! I'm always eager to learn stuff.
Some people have said something about heating up the ends of the plastic tube - apparently, this should dissolve or weaken whatever glue is holding the blocky ends on to the tube, but as I don't have a heatgun, I can't test that theory - I wouldn't worry about the heat breaking the CCFL inside the tube, although one probably shouldn't set the heatgun to melt the plactic. ;)
