Nice work man. Very nice work. +rep
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Nice work man. Very nice work. +rep
An entire box fullllll of conversion parts.
I didn't sell EVERYTHING when I sold my 944. They wanted the wheels that were on it. I told them I had extras but they didn't want extra on the trade-in. So I kept these for myself and told them too bad. I figured I'd take a piece of the 944 back with me. Something functional that makes me happy.
Here's a pic of the 944 when it had them on still
Nice, this is what I am used to seeing not that it is a bad look just it is the normal "stance" and it just isn't creative at this point.
Should look something like this. But with black paint and gold wheels.
Goodbye drum brakes.
Yay! Brakes that work! :D
Not just that, those are nice big beefy 944 brakes to boot :)
Yep, those are disc brakes alright! Haha! Looking good, dude! :)
I may have missed it, but did you make any other changes to the braking system? Master cylinder bore, proportioning valve, etc?
Wait a minute! I'm starting to think this isn't a computer mod
Not yet, those will be on the way shortly.
Lol neither are the other eleventy billion threads in the misc section! Lol I missed your posts though man. Was glad to see you were on here when I registered on here. I remember you from twistedmods, do you remember me? (KoiHoshi previously)
I have to get rid of my boredom somehow. Says to post things you are happy to have tweaked, and i am happy to tweak cars :)
Alright so I got the rest of the brake install finished. However, because the steering knuckles and balljoint mounts were different sizes I ended up having to upgrade to 944 arms and balljoints. Technically, this is a GOOD thing because they are a lot beefier and really don't add much weight. I'll get pics of the before and after once parts come in. Probably will be a few days. However, I had to post pics since I had a little fun with carbon fiber.
I am going to be doing a switched setup to control the power to the main relays for safety reasons. But with having made a half dash, I had nowhere to mount them. A buddy of mine works at a CF shop, so whenever he gets CF he can't use, or scrap CF, or CF that didn't turn out right that can still be used but not sold, he gives some to me. Feeds my addiction and it gives me the chance to tinker.
In this case he had some flat media which was PERFECT for a switch panel, it had bubbles, so he couldn't use it for any structure and he said it was "too ugly" to resell it. So he let me take it off his hands.
I went ahead and mounted my frankenstein dash in the car to play around with seat positioning. My dash is definitely NOT the prettiest thing (realistically it was the first thing I ever made out of CF haha), but structurally is nice and rigid and does the dash. I may end up mocking it up to prevent glare in the car.
Crappy cell phone pics. Also, all the wiring you see in these pics will be going bye bye because it's part of the stock harness, I am building a NEW harness for the megasquirt. I included a pic of the main power and grounds in a simple diagram I came up with the other night.
Here's the switch panel mostly finished. Push start, man power on to relay, fuel and ign.
I will probably add a few more switches for accessories, but for now that's good.
Playing around figuring out where I want them....
MEGASQUIRT.... who says fuel injection can't be awesome :D
have you seen these kits for the headlights?
Yeah that is the dirty as hell pic of it, it's cleaned up and painted now.
But yes... they are a cast iron block (super ridiculously heavy ones too). The 924 engine is the bottom end of a VW truck motor and the top end is mostly audi/vw parts. So on a positive note, the engines are strong as hell and hard to kill lol.
Regarding the GT lights, they're a pretty popular mod but the kits are about $400 or more. I was in the process of making my own, unfortunately my first attempts did not turn out well. My buddy made his own so I may shoot him a few bucks his way and have him do it for me. The kits are basically just a real basic headlight conversion with a plastic bucket, lexan or plexi headlight cover and basic wiring, they are very simple. The nice thing is that they lose a lot of weight.
Another thing I considered was gutting out the stock headlight setup, using the stock headlight covers and putting in projectors. I had a mockup of it done in a rendering that turned out okay, still not sure which way I want to go on it.
What about GT lights using projectors! Like this...
These look pretty good too...
This thread has a pretty easy looking tutorial on how to do the GT style lights.
http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...hts-guide.html
Probably a process that you are already familiar with, but they make it look so easy! :)
I think the fiberglass buckets could be done with a little cardboard or foam and some fiberglass.
I do enjoy the work you put into those Porsches!
Interesting, that's the same tutorial I've seen except it was on a different forum (924board.org) and was in 2 separate threads, looks like they compiled it. My mistake is that I didn't use felt when I baked the acrylic, instead, I used simple cloth, the result was that the acrylic ended up having wrinkles where it smeared, whereas the felt is supposed to create a barrier. I will probably try it again sometime soon. It was pretty easy to do and get the shape right after a few tries. Getting it to not smear/wrinkle where pressure was put on, was a different story.
Thanks for the compliments by the way. I realize some of the stuff (like the CF dash) looks like hell, but it's functional, which is it's purpose, haha.
By the way the projector IN the GT light kit is pretty cool, have not seen anything like that till now! The real question is... what is the weight saving difference between standard lights and projectors? That would be interesting to know.
You know they make these conversion kits to the new style bulbs, and the assembly looks like its plastic.
http://www.topgearautosport.com/part...onversion.html
so you'd loose the weight of those glass lamps. which i bet is a pretty good amount of that whole headlamp assembly. and then mount those projectors on the like your picture above?
So you could have low beam projectors, and then flip up hi-power lighting as well?
But you would need some sort of relay(s) to turn one light off and the other on.
just my two pennies stick with glass they stand up better to the elements (unless elements are pissed off husband when he comes home too early) and you don't save that much weight to matter.
Well... I got the stupid control arm bushings in. WHAT A ***** TO GET IN! OMG!
I must have read 5 different tutorials on doing these stupid things. Could not get them in. I finally came up with my own method which included a clamp, a couple 2x4s, wheel bearing grease and a 24mm socket.
Can actually get the suspension back together now!
hah we used a big old giant table vice to put his control bushings in with dish soap and a little water.
But your actually supposed to use these deals
really though its what ever the hell gets it in there is the tool(s) to use.
When I did my dog bone I used a stainless steel rod, a vice, and a ten lbs sledge to get the old one out and a lot of pb blaster and a vice and elbow grease to get the new one in so your in good company... maybe...
Update: Here's pics of the back now that it's all sealed up. Using the stock wiring locations to start my harness.
Here is the fully installed finished job. 944 control arms, 944 balljoints, 944 brakes and SS brake lines. AWW YEAHHHHHH.
Wheel fitment. I know what you're thinking... "But Derek, those poke out too much!"
Do they?
I think not... check it out... remember that because of camber and the way a car's suspension compresses that tires do not move straight up, but the suspension pivots with the camber.
It's close. BUT... IT FITS.
fender flares?
I could, not sure if it's really necessary though. We'll see. Once I get her out for her first tests I'll take measurements. If I don't like it, I could. They do make the Carrera flares for it, which look cool, and it can be moved over to 944 body work with 944 fenders. But, eh, I'm ok with it the way it is.
BTW here's a list of all the bodywork GT-Racing sells.
http://gt-racing.com/products-page/924944951-parts/
Link to the Carrera Flares.
http://gt-racing.com/wp-content/uplo...6986768234.jpg
And the front fenders for the Carrera Setup.
http://gt-racing.com/wp-content/uplo...298A-96x62.jpg
But again, that stuff gets spendy... only if i really need to will I consider it. I don't mind a little poke as long as it isn't rubbing the fender.
You know what that car looks like?
Mitsubishi Conquest
http://static.cargurus.com/images/si...pic-46274.jpeg
That sir, is one hell of a automobile
But anyways from the pics it doesn't look like its sticking out that much, i'd be worried about the large bumps though while at speed. you defiantly wouldn't want to suck up your inside fender cowl and spit it out into 90 pieces on the highway.... if them porches even have those plastic cowls.
But at any rate those rims need to be molested with the buffing ball for a good 2 hours a piece.
If I remember how the suspension works the camber increases at the higher rpm and the tires tuck even more. Same type of suspension used on most sandrails it is good stuff.
Camber is the angle of where the wheel sits. RPM wouldn't dictate how the suspension is since that's just the rpms of the engine. However, your camber will help keep the tires flat when going around corners, help with your grip etc.
Here's an extreme example I found on google images:
http://www.trachschmak.com/wp-conten.../06/Camber.jpg
Essentially, since the car has negative camber, as the suspension compresses, it'll tuck in, rather than go straight up, since suspension pivots. Hope that clarifies a bit.
Here is another extreme example of when I autocrossed my 914. If you look on the side the car is compressing you can see how it compressed, likewise, on the side where the bodyroll is lacking, you can see how the tire is at an angle as it decompressed from the bodyroll.
The idea on a negative camber is that as you turn hard, your suspension is going to flex and the wheel is going to end up moving over a bit when that happens. On a 0 degree camber, if you corner hard enough, that wheel and tire would end up at a POSITIVE camber upon heavy cornering due to bodyroll. That means your contact patch is not making it's best efficiency. However, if you counteract that with a NEGATIVE camber, next time you corner, it's more likely to end up at a closer to 0 angle depending on your suspension setup, meaning you'll get a better, more desirable contact patch. :)
By the way.. got the master cylinder repaired today, will snag some pics later :) Also repainted it after I took it down to bare metal to keep it from rusting again.
Not to nitpick :P ... but the Conquest was the Chrysler/Dodge name.. the Mitsubishi was called a Starion. The same car. Not sure what the Starion designation was, but the TSi version of the Conquest was absolutely crazy quick for it's time.
I agree the widebody kits on the 924 does give it a lot of the same look, and I like it.