motherboard replacement- DV6000

Yeah, It was the cheapest I could find with no shipping charge. It is just a piece of copper! It doesn't cost 6 bucks to ship. lol

Shim eta- 10/26-11/2 (asdlkad lol)
HSF- 10/18-10/24
Ribbons- 10/19-10/25
Mobo- 10/18-10/19

And of course the 1 part I MUST have before turning on is going to take the longest to get here. If anything, I will use the recommended penny to test that it works for return policy.

I got all the laptop pics necessary, just need to work on cooler. Maybe after some sleep.

Outlaw


EDIT::: Oh and hopefully this board works. I accidentally ordered the "wrong" one through my phone... wonderful fat fingers. It's the 449902-001, and from what I understand, its the same board as the original one I wanted with the 8400m but accepts faster fsb/ram. Hopefully this will be an OK mistake.

I agree im pooped too lol, catch ya later, can always send me a pm if you got any questions or what not, I don't know everything but I can always do my best :D or just post it here and let the general audience figure it all out lol

Well.. here is a very rough sketch done with paint. I think it covers the big stuff.

Outlaw

Like how the MoBo is above the WC system!

Thanks! One of the things I wasn't sure of was where the pump should be in the loop. In the pic it comes after the RAD. The Loop is: RES>RAD>PUMP>CPU>GPU>RES

I wish I had skills in sketchup or the like for a much more detailed draft.

Here would be a possible candidate for temp sensors. http://www.xoxide.com/blue-lcd-temp-sensor.html

looks pretty good! only two suggestions I could think of: maybe put some curve in the bottom, or something to allow airflow to both sides of the rad, would help keep things cool, and maybe find a way to mount a small fan controller on the side, so you can turn the fans down if you're not doing anything huge :) im using two of these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...MS6k&mv_pc=308 but I may be able to condense it down to one and send you the spare, if you want one to work with when you get that far, it works really well :D

That would be nice If I go manual controls. And if I do, that part would be handy. I was debating on wiring the rad fans to the mobo controlled header and let it do the rpms as needed. 2 80's shouldn't draw too much juice I don't think, but the manual control would remove all the "burn out" possibilities.

With 3 headers on that controller, I could even add a third (or 2 wired to 1 header) fan to maybe the side/s under the 'USB' instead of the bottom to allow an intake. Then it wouldn't matter the surface it's set on.

Depending on the size of this pad, I think I would try to mount the rheo facing up for easier control and less chance of snag if set on a blanket or on its side for fill/drain. Donno though, just a thought.

Any thought on speaker addition?

Thanks!
Outlaw

Unfortunately I'm not very knowledgeable about speakers lol, only thing I could think of would be cracking open a cheap pair of speakers and mounting the insides into the pad, probably not a very elegant solution lol

Also what areyou planning on making the cooler out of? I was thinking probably aluminum, but acrylic could look pretty sweet too, then you could show off your hard work inside :p

Yeah, I wasn't sure on the speakers either yet. Just messing with the idea.

I was looking at aluminum. There is a 19.5"x19.5"x1mm anodized on frozencpu. I could maybe do both. Alum frame with acrylic window? The alum would help keep it sturdy and not look so bad when scratched.

Maybe you should make top and bottom out of aluminum and sides out of acrylic? Then you wouldn't have to worry about scratching the top or bottom, but could get some cool inside views of it!

Well have to see how far this goes. I think the acrylic won't be too expensive at the local HW store but the aluminum doesn't look too cheap. lol. One for the other I guess. Might be able to do the front out of acrylic.. that would kinda be cool.

Is there a cheaper cooler with the spec I need? lol. If I can find one like the pic shows below for under 20bucks I think I would be in good shape.

I'm going to keep searching. I think this might actually be a better bet. Even the 20 dollar one is cheaper then a sheet of alum that I would need 2 of as well. Plus the premade is already vented, it would just need some cutting to make room for additions.

EDIT:::

Here is a couple pics unedited (except for flip) of what I am talking about just in case someone wasn't sure.

1. Massive23 CS would be ~5" tall which would be plenty of room for the rad and provide enough head room for extra internal components. The prob is the 15.4" laptop is just over 14" wide and the pad is only 13".

2. Massive 23 ST has the same problem as CS. But it shows what my plan would be to help save "manufacturing" cost.

EDIT2:::

I found one fairly close to the original design. Silverstone Noble Breeze NB01B Notebook Cooler

OR the Cryo LX. It is 16.5" wide which would be nice but to double it up would cost 140. Would have to find a way to make it taller to fit the rad and still make it look nice.

I like that silverstone one! maybe add 1-2"" on the bottom, put the temp displays right on that front slanted section! If you could get your speaker idea working, you could put it in the sides towards the back, and either keep the mesh or maybe go with acrylic for the sides :) Lots of possibilities! plus it doesn't look like you'd need to do a whole lot drilling-wise for the QDC's to have access to the pad, with those large fan holes.

The only one wide enough without modding would be the Cryo. The Thermaltakes would be perfect to double up but would need to be widened some how to allow for un blocked speakers and sides withe acrylic. If it were the silverstone, I think i would leave the mesh but it would allow for the option as the holes are already done and threaded. That one might be the easiest to add panels to the sides to widen it too. Would just have to find the materials.

All but the Cryo would be good for the hoses as it wouldn't need too heavy duty of cutting tools so I could do this easily. We'll have to see when that time gets closer. Still need to find some other blocks that have the adjustable arms on them. 40 and 60 bucks is what is killing the budget on this loop..

Yey!

Motherboard and Ribbon cables are here. boards are visually an exact match except for hdmi and 8400m. so far so good. Should have heatsink within the next couple days. Shims are still looking to be the 10/26-11/2 though :(

Do a dry test of the setup!

I can't do anything else.

verified the board fits (beside the hdmi port I need to notch out of laptop.)
verified cables route to proper location

That is really all I can do until I at minimum get the heatsink. I can stick a penny over the chipset at least to test. Then wait for the proper shims to show.

Ohhh..

Heatsink. Just SLIGHTLY important.

lol. yes.

Unfortunately, the original heatsink doesn't mount the same as this replacement board.

ETA for heatsink?

Today Mother Trucker!! lol Sry, excited.

I should hopefully have some pics up later.

Well. I would consider the swap a success with a couple exceptions.

Exceptions
1. Still need proper shims (used penny's to test hardware)
2. CPU still getting really hot per core temp.

Here are some pics and screenshots. If specific pics wanted, please let me know. I still have to pull apart at least 1 more time.

Old and New board:

HSF and Mr Lincoln installed:

Boot test:

Tada!!:

Together.. well except for the keyboard I forgot at home, lol:

The image on there now is actually from about 2 years ago. Surprisingly it loaded without an issue considering it had been sitting out of the PC and I changed the board out. The temp per Core Temp was quite high though so I think I will have to notch out the bottom at least or come up with a few extra bucks to get all the necessary parts for water cooling.

Well. Bad news. After attempting a fresh install of Windows, I lost com with the DVD-Rom. BIOS or Windows doesn't detect. Even when unplugging and plugging back in. It powers up and spins but nothing in comp mgmt. Updated bios to latest version without success. Contacted seller for assistance. :( I was able to get a better shim then the penny to bring temps way down until it exits power save and bumps up to 1.8ghz, then I quick the app.

Not sure if this needs to be moved to a modding section yet but I may be able (small possibility) to get a single block cut for the CPU, CHP and GPU. Using 1/4" plumbing would give me some routing options in the block as well as into a cooler pad.

Block dimensions: 1/2" thick x 4" wide (at widest point) x 6.5" long (at longest point)

Option 1:
Pros:
Would be least "invasive" and only have 1 hole needing a plug leaving fewer risk for leaks.
Run over CPU and CHP.
Cons:
May not be as effective as pulling heat away through water.
Inlet would come in from battery bay leaving power supply use only.
1 plugged port leaving risk for leaks

Option 2:
Pros:
Move inlet to come from fan bay which is already removed.
Run over CPU and CHP
Only 2 plugged ports needed
Cons:
2 plugged ports leaving risk for leaks.

Option 3:
Pros:
Move inlet to come from fan bay which is already removed.
Run over CPU and CHP and GPU
Routed for better exposure to heat sources.
Cons:
4 plugged ports leaving risk for leaks

Any thoughts, ideas?

Thanks,
Outlaw

Another option you can consider is a "sandwich" block.

Carve out what you need, and water-proof the rim.

Thanks.

I did discuss it with him. Finding the block for a reasonable price is going to be key first. He said they usually deal with copper sheets upto ~1/4". Even if I did the sandwich, I would need the bottom block 1/2" to allow for the barbs to secure properly since its going to be a side entrance.

I'm not sure they can do the machining for the channeling though from the top. I can ask tomorrow when I see him at work. He is going to see if they can do option 2 or 3 at work and a ballpark price on the block of copper.

Thanks,
Outlaw

He said, the block cutout is about $104.... umm... lol hm.. what to do now. lol

Look at still using copper block for water cooling or get the CHP blocks and hope I can cool the CHP properly since the blocks will only cover the CPU and GPU leaving a less then optimal cooling solution as the only way to cool the CHP...

What to do?!
Outlaw

Well I got a call and text earlier. He was able to make a block out of 1/4" copper for free using scrap. The idea was brought up to run 1/4" copper tubing along the surface, looping it around instead of trying to do all the work inside the block. 1/4" slab of copper I think will definitely be beneficial but the water loop will replace a wimpy 40-60mm fan internally with a 120mm fan/rad mounted somewhere externally and just plan look cooler then some dumb heatsink only. lol

Outlaw

edit:::
almost forgot the pic. Top is the 1/4" copper, bottom is the cardboard template

edit2:::
Going to see what kind of loop they can put on top of the block in the morning. In order of preference.

He came into work today with the block.

Block on mobo.

Side View... oh noes BIG Gap!

He's taking it back to make some changes for the mounting holes and hopefully to help lower the gap over the CHP. This block is heavy too! lol

Outlaw

Awww!

You don't have that 2nd mPCIe slot!

You could've put an SSD into that 2nd slot!



Good luck, though!

The one next to the wifi? Yeah, that was option I think on the HP's which they didn't use on my series.

I don't think it would be too beneficial, but if I don't get a board working with the DVD-Rom (not 100% necessary as it images perfectly via flashdrive), I will have an opening in the laptop where an SSD could fit. Downside is I don't have the budget for an SSD. Plus if I were going to go SSD, I would make that the primary (current HDD is 160GB @ 5400RPM). I would use the SSD as the primary OS drive and get another 2.5" Sata to USB HDD for storage in teh DVD-Rom slot.

Thanks! I will keep this updated or just wait till it's done. The guy doing the block wants to test the temps without the plumbing to see if there is any real gains to the water cooling loop.

Outlaw

Currently waiting on the block to get shaved down at the mounting points so it will sit flush with the chips. Once all is said and done, two tests will be done. 1- 1/4" block only for cooling, 2- block with 1/4" WC block

Also have the mobo out on RMA for the DVD-Rom not detected/working.

While waiting I had a question or few.

1. Should I run 2 of the pumps (KidWind Project Pump). If I calculated right, they are about 32GPH at 5V?
2. Should I use quick connects at the OE fan grille to allow for laptop remove from cooling pad or just secure laptop to cooling pad?
3. Do you think this RAD/FAN would be efficient enough?

For the pumps, I wasn't sure if 1 pump would be effecient enough to push through the entire loop on the block plus the Rad. A Res is still up in the air at this point depending on the cooler pad room and mounting options.

Thanks,
Outlaw

edit:::
I also now have a TL-62 instead of the oe TL-56. The TL-62 is 2.1Ghz, TL-56- is 1.8Ghz\
I was also considering bumping (maxing) the RAM out at 4GB.
If budget allowed, I would also be looking to get a 7200RPM HDD or an SSD but not sure the low disk space to performance would be worth it since the games would need to be installed on the SSD.

Ok. What do you guys think of this HS/F to be used in a WC loop?

LINK

It is an 80mm fan mounted to the HS. The mounting points could give me some alternative options like mounting to back of display with ease so I could run without a pad if desired. It would still take some fabrication of the HS itself to fit the plumbing though. Oh, and it is also 30bucks less!

Thanks,
Outlaw

i'm not getting how that would be adapted to a WC setup.

The end of the pipes would be cut to accommodate the 1/4" tubing. The Heatpipes are 1/4" OD and copper.

i'm not sure you want to cut those pipes. i don't know what kind of pressures the gasses inside are under or how toxic they are. but you might not want to let them out.

Naw, just simply move the fins and fan separate from the heatpipe, and bend your own personal tubing.

I have seen other posts where it had been done with other coolers (not that it means it is safe). Plus I don't see how I could remove the heatpipe from the fins and "re-pipe" it where it will be as efficient as the original pipe.

Copied from Wiki
At the hot interface within a heat pipe, which is typically at a very low pressure, a liquid in contact with a thermally conductive solid surface turns into a vapor by absorbing heat from that surface.

A vacuum pump is used to remove all air from the empty heat pipe, and then the pipe is filled with a fraction of a percent by volume of working fluid (or coolant) chosen to match the operating temperature. Examples of such fluids include water, ethanol, acetone, sodium, or mercury.

The materials chosen depend on the temperature conditions in which the heat pipe must operate, with coolants ranging from liquid helium for extremely low temperature applications (2–4 K) to mercury (523–923 K) & sodium (873–1473 K) and even indium (2000–3000 K) for extremely high temperatures. The vast majority of heat pipes for low temperature applications use some combination of ammonia (213–373 K), alcohol (methanol (283–403 K) or ethanol (273–403 K)) or water (303–473 K) as working fluid.


I am still looking for something to use as the rad and the cpu/chipset cpu's with heatpipes seems like it would be the way to go for cost and efficiency.


::edit::
I could pull the H50 off my current rig then use the pump and rad in the laptop loop.
Reference link minus the res.

Thanks,
Outlaw

Got good news. New board is on it's way back to me.

I will be able to get the heatsink fitted now. Should have it by the end of the week.