I think someone found out that 2*3.5 bays was the right size for 3 very small fans (30mm, I think...)
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I think someone found out that 2*3.5 bays was the right size for 3 very small fans (30mm, I think...)
i'd use these to start with and modify as necessary.
3.5"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27179
5.25"
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=27177
no problem.
Been crazy busy lately and have not had time to work on this project. Also have run into a few issues.
I think the motherboard has RROD'd beyond fixing. It wont stop red ringing even after new thermal past and the x clamp fix. Might have to use one of my motherboards...which means I'll have to re solder everything, buy a new DVD drive to swap out the I/O boards, and re do a lot of stuff. Kinda sucks and is pushing me back.
I got the final layer of paint on everything, now i just need to spray paint the decal on the panel so I can clear coat it, then put everything back together and get the sheet metal.
Thanks for staying tuned.
Have you thrown it into the oven to try to fix it?
That was my last resort..ahha
Teaser photo! Here is the first coat of paint on the front bezel. Custom switch plate up top.
And a mock put together.
Have you gotten the 360 DVD drive prepped for the front bay?
Wow, great work on the front panel. :up:
Yup! It's in there right now actually! I took an old sony DVD drive that I had lying around and I gutted it. I dremeled off the odd edges of the Xbox cd drive, and just placed it inside the dvd drive case! took the front bezel off the xbox cd drive, and glued the sony bezel to the DVD. I didn't take any pictures cause I didn't have my camera at the time, but i'll break it down later before I put everything together.
Thanks a lot dude!
Eject button even hooked up?
Not on the dvd tray. The switch panel below is going to have the switch for eject.
You know I didn't even think of that. I might pop the button out and fill that hole. Might have to do that.
Edit : Eh, I'll prob just leave it. I'd have to pick up more primer, paint, and clear coat, and I don't think the time is worth it. Among other things I would have done differently. Live and learn.
Are you going to have the front circle be lit up?
Be the "ring"?
That would be interesting to do.
What I was thinking of wiring:
Drill an LED in each corner. When it projects, it lights up the quarter.
So, to get:
1 2
3 4
You'd wire it (at the section):
4 3
2 1
That way, when it projects, it lights up the appropriate section.
Just throwing out ideas here.
This would be interesting, but I already have a green LED for the inside of the case that will be illuminating the turbine tunnel. That is an awesome Idea though.
But the other thing to is soldering wire to the circuit board on the xbox with the ROL is extremely difficult, and with my current luck with the xbox motherboards, I don't want to do anymore soldering. Maybe If I get some more xbox's to mess around with in the future, but 2 mobo's for 1 project is enough for me at the moment.
Thank you very much for the suggestions!
If only you could get like a 25 pack of RF boards to mess around with....
One could dream...hahahah. I constantly use my FB status to round up RROD'd xboxs. I've gotten a few so far.
I'm assuming you're still working with RROD unit. How do you go about fixing the RROD for the Xbox? Or do you just send it to someone?
The first xbox rrod'ed motherboard I was working with is out of my hands now. I do not have any experience re soldering chips to motherboards, so I'm not going to attempt that right now. The new motherboard I'm using for this project has not yet RROD'd, it was just an extra xbox i had lying around. It's the Jasper motherboard, which is the least likely to RROD out of all the different version of the xbox motherboards. SO to keep it that way i'm installing 3 120mm fans, and did the xclamp and thermal paste replacement.
there are simple fixes and there are in depth fixes. A simple one would be to turn on your xbox but unplugging the fan to let it over heat. Then when it reboots it does a hardware reset and your fine.
A more indepth fix is removing the heatsinks and re applying a more high performance thermal paste, along with replacing the crappy xclamps with the nut and bolt replacement. ($5 on amazon.)
Then if you really want to get into it, desolder the chip. clean it up and resolder, and do the heatsink work I listed above.
Got the motherboard, fans, case feet and cathodes installed and the wires hidden to my liking. Only thing not hidden is the sata cable because it's not long enough. Oh well! Only things left to so is get the sheet metal for the back plate, and make cuts for the LED switches. Have to wait about 5 days for this paint to cure for the clear coat, and then I'm done!
Assembling took me about 3.5 hours yesterday because of non stop issues. I got it all put together and there was a short somewhere. Every time I touched the chassis it would turn on and sometimes the DVD tray would open. So I took it out and put it back in. Tested and everything worked. After a bit of playing around I noticed now the SYNC switch was not working properly. So I started moving wires around and the wire broke about 1/4 inch from the solder point. So I had to take the motherboard out again and resolder the sync button wires to the board. Put it back in and it was still shorting out. But then I pulled all the wires out of hiding and re did them. Then I realized that I mounted the hard drive to the motherboard cage...but didn't plug it in .....:(
So I took the mobo/cage out one last time, plugged it in, got everything together and looking pretty, and it's good to go now. So happy that I am nearing the completion of this project. So happy.
Here are 2 cell phone pics of what it looks like.
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1330691975
http://i452.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1330691974
And done!