i believe if that had a third row it would read "for breakfast." ^_^
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i believe if that had a third row it would read "for breakfast." ^_^
I believ if that had a 4rth row it would read "Crimson sky will kill you"....
Thats a nice LCD man, Question, How do you program thos things to say ****?
hehQuote:
Originally Posted by Razors Edge
I use the program
http://lcdsmartie.sourceforge.net/
It talks to the LCD through the serial printer port. While it did take a bit to configure once I got it going I found it was easy to use.
The water cooling kit arrived will post pictures soon.
Whats in the box?
From left to right.
Tubing + Manual, The reserator 2 unit, Water blocks and other bits and bobs
Shiny water blocks
The thing is though you have to buy vga ram sinks seperatly for your video card though as the optinal extra one which I didn't get is for NV 7XXX cards. At least the blocks come with good thermal paste though.
Close up of the reserator unit. It is just agiant fined heat sink. It is so good at displleing heat the unit is cold to the touch quite sureal really.
Six days untill I finish my exams I can install the kit and do a lot of work on the mod.
Simon i just got cs s workin... wonderin if u play... If u do add me to steam g_2k6_ or any1 else who has steam add me
Hey youngblood. I will add you but I can't play at the moment as I am studying for my final exam and my graphics card overheats when I game thats why I have got the water cooling kit.
So I will frag you later then.
do either of you ...simon or youngblood...use xfire...i play quite a bit of CS..or had for a while
I have never used XFIRE but I think I will start using it.
Nice gear Simon,
I especially like your LCD, I see now that I paid way too much for mine! Nice grab!
Yeah it is really a no frills one. Those stupid matrox orbital things are extatly the same except they come bundled with software and a 5 1/4" face plate and cost a lot more. I believe the guy who sold me the LCD on ebay is now selling them with 5 1/4" face plates as well.
May I have a link to the LCD on ebay?
Yes you may.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMovement4
The guy dosen't have any for sale atm so here is the link to the one I bought
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MEWN%3AIT&rd=1
If you go to ebay and type in "HD44780" you should find hundereds
http://search.ebay.com/HD44780_W0QQfromZR40
I am famous.
Type
"super lanboy mod" into google my worklog is the 2nd link behind the forums
http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=e...G=Search&meta=
Type
"basic cs mod" and I am first
http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=e...G=Search&meta=
Tuesday afternoon the water cooling system goes in and so does the small lcd screen. ROCK ON!
I was thinking of what to do with the front panel of the super lan boy. I was thinking to take the door off an put a peice of like black or blue plexi there and having the dvd drive cover stealthed. With a peice of the same colour pelxi over it. I will have to see what the case is like though when the water cooling kit and the LCD go in.
Kinda like this non inlcuding all the red stuff on the top and sides. I just like effect of having the pleix panel but I will stealth the drive though.
Also the first post I made on this thread shows the status of what is currenly happening.
Exams are done lets install the water cooling kit.
And it began the start
The reserator 2
The CPU block, plus mounting bits, the vga block, plus mounting bits, ram sinks for the VGA and hose clamps
The Graphics card and the mobo out and ready for modding.
So I tried to get the CPU out after uncliping it and it came right out. Luckly no pins bent and eveything was fine.
Next problem the old thermal grease had dried solid so I couldn't get the CPU off it. So I heated it up using a hair dryer and it came off with a lite twist.
Right next I cleaned off the old thermal paste with a lint free cloth and some metho.
Unlike normal mobo's the Gigabyte ones have some stupid plastic backplate with plastic clips. This took me about an hour to get off.
Now the same process again with VGA board.
So shiny now don't let the VGA ram blocks fool you they dont stick on very well and some are slightly glued on with a bit of glue along the side.
Right now eveything goes back in. And the first bit of tubing is put in. Between the CPU and VGA blocks.
Now the bleeding operation to get the air out. Here A jumper is used so the pump is triggered by the PSU but nothing else runs. THIS TOOK FIVE HOURS unit we left it :eek: With tipping the case evey which way and the unit to try and get air out. My dad came home from work and gave me a hand. We then left it running overnight and my dad and I got up at different times in the night to check on it. The unit had to be on its side otherwise no water would flow and the pump would stop and the flow alarm would go off so it has to be tipped on its side. I suggest unless you really want a queit system go for a more conventional kit. In the morning I stood the unit up normally and the water flowed and the air had gone.
Here it is setup and running. When it is running the reserator feels slightly warm to the touch.
Also the LCD screen got installed. The unit takes a long time to stabalize but the GPU is now aorund 53 Degrees and the CPU is 39 Degrees. I know I need some cable management I will fix that later.
Half a day and a bit later she is done. Now that the case is water cooled time to make it more counter strikey.
The best thing is thought with 120mm fan the case is silent. I cant hear anything. Just the woosh of the central heating.
Very nice looking. The wiremanagment looks decent
cool!
i love how versitile the the SLB is...ive got a prject planned for a couple right now...
helpful suggestion for your HDD....mount it on the trya backwards then you can take the right panel off and hook up your cables.....it REALLY helps clean up the look...specially with mine...4 hard drives ><
Yes yes it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Noobkiller
A couple SLB this will be good to seeQuote:
Originally Posted by b4i7
Quote:
Originally Posted by b4i7
I cant mount it the other way it doesnt work I tried it when I first put it in. I think it was because since there is a rail system and the HDD arent screwed in they cant be mounted backwards as they don't fit in properly. So I would have to do away with the rails and use long screws with rubber washers. I don't really see the point apart from tidyness.
Thanks any way!
Keep the comments/ideas coming!
Hmm...i'm inclined to disagree. This case is great, with a lot of good things going for it, but the wires are kinda shoved up in the corner...I'd eliminate as many as you can, maybe sleeve the spares, or even go ape-**** like i did on a mod (which keep forgetting to post) and actually cut off all the wires that won't be used.Quote:
Very nice looking. The wiremanagment looks decent
-Dave
I actually kinda wanted some one to say that in a funny way.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
I think I am going to save my pennies and by one of those Seasonic modular power supplies. Seasonic make the best PSU's. I have never used one but I have heard so many good words about them. Plus they have above 80% effiency.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=20799
Simon275,
Do you already know how you are going to make it more Counter Strikey? Also, I think the appearance of finished work would benefit greatly by designing a scheme that covers the area on the right (where the drives are) and a strip on the top (to at least an inch or two below the bottom of the PSU). I think that would show what's pretty and hide what's not, unless you intend to incorporate those structures into the scheme.
Yes I am going to install a counter strike window applique, put camo case wrap on it and a CS case badge and 80mm a CS fan grill on the back of my my PSU Any other suggestions?
A peice of metal covering it sounds like a great Idea I have seen it done before but never though of doing it myself.
So kinda like this but neater and painted or something like that
Interesting, this is coming along pretty well. I like the little LCD, I need to find a red one.
You can buy one of those and take the two backlight led's out and replace em with red ones.
I'm not sure if case wrap would look as nice as if you made some sort of mix of textures. The game has lots of buildings made of brick, sod, etc... If you used some of these in combination with industrial metal textures I think it would create a nice composition. You could do the whole case like this and have small details like bullet strikes, blood splatter, arabic grafitti, lots of possibilities. You could also mod your own liquid reservoir to look like one of the canister smoke grenades, that would look pretty cool. Here is an example of what I mean by mixing the textures...
It would be alot more work, but you would be happier in the end I think than if you used case wrap. Might even make it into the featured worklog section, ah the fame...
OMG that is inspired. WOW dude that is so nice. I love it! man I am lost for words.
Ok a few questions
How can I paint that metal effect
Also how can I make the brick effect.
So the metal and the bricks go over the plexiwindow or unerneath. Or the metal bit ontop and the bricks underneath?
I am not going to touch the reserator as it is very expensive and I dont want to reck its efficency or anything
Well, if you were going to make it look exactly like the example I would say you need to plan the rest of the case before deciding what type of metal/stone look you are going for. Using the above colors, I think if you left the rest of the case silver it would clash terribly. So you need to think about the whole case and how it will all fit together. That is what makes the difference between an elegant work of art and a compilation of good ideas that don't mix well.
If you liked the example and wanted to apply it, I would try to find material that looks similar and is durable, lightweight, and preferably inexpensive. You may find some textured paints at Lowes that will give you a similar look but to me it kinda looks like those rubber mats I've seen on floors. You could use one of those and cut the shapes to fit. The bricks on the other hand will obviously be more difficult. You could sculpt them from bondo but this will be very tedious and you best have skills. One thing that comes to mind is children's toys like plastic castles (I had Castle Greyshull from He-man when I was a kid). If they have the right sized bricks and good quality texture, you could make a mold of it and then use it cast you surface (like CrimsonSky did for his Mars rocks). As a matter of fact, you should ask him for ideas on how to do this as I'm sure he would have some. I would definately put the the decor on the outside of the plexi, would look bad on the inside. Start scribbling out some plans for a grand scheme and I think you'll find it to be the most fun of the whole project. I could toss out some more ideas if you like, just ask.
Jon
Hmmm I really need to think about this. I don't know if I can afford the time and money to do that much work on it. As I am trying to get a job as I have just finished school and I need money for university.
Maybe I will just start with the orginal plan of puting covers over the messy bits. I can allways remove it later.
On another note thank you jdbnsn for your great suggestions.
Anytime dude.
That case is looking smart!
I spent 2.30 hours yesterday sorting my wiring inside the case by using heat shrink, insulation tape and that wire wrap stuff. I only have two thick wire wrap thing going around my computer!
-gaz
Just mask off the area you want to apply the brick effect. Do NOT sand... you want paint pimples on this effect.
Spray the entire area grey (or whatever color you want your mortar to be). Let it dry.
Now get 1/2" masking tape and lay it out in a brick pattern, that is, alternating your horizontal lines at the midway point of the bricks above and below it.
______________|_________|___________|__________|__ ____________|
___|_______________|_________|_________|__________ |
If you want thick standout bricks you will need bondo and you will need to work fast, just the brick effect is just paint and you can skip the next step.
Mix your bondo light on the activator so it stays wet longer. Bondo the whole area very very lightly and then scrape off excess... It can get heavy so you don't want thicker than 1/4 inch max.
Pick the three colors that you think best make up your bricks and spray them onto the bondo (or case if you skipped the bondo step) darkest first and farthest away, then get lighter colored and closer, spray them all while still wet and then pull off tape before your bondo seals it away forever. You don't need textured paint cuz all these paints are gonna "dot up" when you spray wet on wet.
I had a friend "brick" an entire Yugo this way in high school. It works.
Instead of bondo, you could use the filler primer just don't sand it. it will give a slight raised appearance depending on how many coats of the filler you put on. I have used the filler primer to raise a couple small scratches out of the body of my landcruiser and it worked great. Still have not painted it 5 years later and the filler primer still holds...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironcat
I would love to see a pic of that yugo...
Did you hear Yugo is getting back into the car market with a new station wagon?
It's called the Weallgo! (insert drum riff)
Seriously though, I graduated in '85, I barely made it out of the 80's with my mullet and Members Only jacket so I don't have any pics... but let me tell you, it was sah-weeeeet!
There is another alternative that would greatly reduce the amount of labor need to make the bricks. You could do the majority of the sides to look like sod or stone by smearing on your bondo or filler and sponging the surface to look authentic. You could accent the edges with stone columns or round pillars, or whatever. This would be alot easier than sculpting the bricks.
One option if you're going for a stone walled look, is to look for model castles, things like that. Warhammer scenery comes to mind, you could do a lot of nice case modifying with bits from those types of models.
Here's an example that might work:
http://www.jeffholbrook.com/castle-kits.htm
Hmm warhammer scenry. I play warhammer 40k so I might be able to get my hands on some just normal warhammer scenry. Once again jdbnsn that is lookin smick nice work.
oh man. you evil, evil person :p that was awfulQuote:
Originally Posted by Ironcat
The mod is going on hold until around december 4. As I am going to visit my relatives in New Zealand and some friends and I are going to schoolies which is a giant week long party on the Gold Coast in Queensland (Up the east coast of Australia).
So stay safe and keep modding all
-Simon275
Ah well good luck, be safe, and have fun Simon.
