Quote:
Originally Posted by Cagedconnerman
Thank you very much. When I get back to my home I will be doing some more so stay tuned.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cagedconnerman
Thank you very much. When I get back to my home I will be doing some more so stay tuned.
Yes there will be a dark stain. Most likely it will be a satin finish (not sure yet) but the stain definitely. The grain will be sanded to a fine finish. This will be some trouble because the smoother the finish the less the wood tends to absorb the finish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian Eh?
Too bad you're not in New York, we could make a killing in the high-end home theater market ;)
Thanks Commando. Anything I can answer I would be glad to help.:D :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Commando
I have loved wood working since I was 8 years old. I never made a living from it but always loved it and now I have the chance to share it.Quote:
Originally Posted by FPMachine
they do say Jesus was a carpenter, your doing god's work.
I don't know what to say? Humble...Quote:
Originally Posted by hogan
Wish I could. I used to live in CT. You know the suburb of NY!Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimson Sky
Thank you for the kind words. When I get back to my shop I will begin to do some glue up and testiing. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by MintyMadness
Been a while since I posted but I have been very busy with the basement. I did however glue up 4 more boards for the case. I will be posting soon the pictures of the glue up of the pump housing and case.:p
Sorry I have been away so long. With the passing of my mother I have so much to deal with. I have been working on my basement to get that ready for my new office. Today I jumped back into the case and got the pump housing glued and sanded. With all the work in my basement, I've misplaced my battery charger and my camera batteries are dead. No fear though I will get some tomorrow and send pics of the work. Its good to be working with my hands again on something I enjoy besides wiring/drilling tapcons into concrete/mounting studs/and cutting bead board!
sorry about the passing of your mother.
Your mod is looking great though mate, this is very professional.
Hey man, don't worry about it. With the passing of a family member, don't feel you need to even post a notice on why you were gone. That's some tough stuff, so it's ok you haven't been here. I am glad to hear you started working again! This is such a cool mod! My best wishes go out to you and your family, and I can't wait to see what you've done!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tale Gunner
TG-
Very sorry to hear about your loss. You have our sympathies and support, the mod can wait.
Hey, there's no need to apologise for being away so long...take care of your family business first. I'm very sorry for your loss. It will be great to see how this one comes out though. Good luck with everything! Where in Ohio are your from?
Thanks all for your understanding. I really appreciate your kind thoughts. I have started back and have the pump housing ready for viewing.
The case will consist of the boards laying on top of the pump house. I took time to show you the steps to getting here.
First the glue up shown earlier in the work log. When removing the wood from the clamps, you find the next picture.
Then its best to scrape off the excess glue. I used a paint scraper to remove most of the excess glue. I am using a polymer glue (Gorilla Glue). This glue is activated by water. The water causes the glue to foam. Thats what you are seeing here.
You can see after removing most of the glue it still has a residual amount left. You can use many tools to remove the small amount left behind. From a palm sander to a planer the list is endless. I chose the palm sander because I did not want to change the thickness of the boards. Belt sanders are great here but they can remove to much material and change the thickness if the boards or make the boards uneven.
Now we are talking. We have 4 boards ready to be prepared to build the case.
Here is the pump house all by itself.
One small accident here. Its difficult to see but between the two holes I have developed a crack. I will glue and clamp this for repair but not to worry it will not show. I will be working on this some more in the days to come. Stay tuned for more.
Boy did I get the cart in front of the horse here. I wanted to show you how I got the cut out for the power supply in the rear of the pump housing.
I took an old case with a power supply cut out that matched the size of my power supply. Note that most all of the cases out there have the same power supply opening but there are some with their own PS that requires you to purchase their PS vise going out and getting a replacement power supply.
I traced this outline onto the board to be cut. Now taking a 1/2" drill bit I drilled 4 holes in the corners of the wood about 1/4" away from the line. I took my father-in-laws DeWalt scroll saw and cut the opening staying at lease 1/4" away from the line. Then I used the drill press to drill the mounting holes for the Power Supply. This was necessary for accuracy. On the inside I drilled a recess to allow for a nut to be inlaid so that the wood could lie flat against the table top of my router table. Using a tall flush cutting bit seen here,
I set up the table to cut out the opening by attaching the old case to the board. With the bearing riding against the metal case, the flush cutting bit made the opening in the board exactly like the one from the case.
It sounds harder then it really was and only took about 1.5 hours to go through the whole process. I will be doing this again for the case PS so I will be taking more pictures of the entire process to show everyone.
That case is going to look beautiful!
great work man, it looks AWESOME !
+rep
Lancaster, OhioQuote:
Originally Posted by dfigravity
Now comes the task of transferring the cad drawing to the wood. Some of the measurements do not show up in the picture because they are in an area that will be visible. Therefore I had to write them in pencil. The darker lines shown on the drawing will be removed via the saw.
I will drill 4 holes in the PS opening to cut it out with the scroll saw. Then I will attach the template from the old case and use the flush cutting bit to rout out the area for accuracy.
The motherboard tray will be a different technique. I will raise the blade to a height and mark on the rip fence the beginning and end of the blade. I will adjust the rip fence to the desired width of the board to remain. Then I will do what they call a drop cut on the table saw. I will position the board against the rip fence and holding one end to the table I will lean the board down to the blade and cut the opening slowly as not to go beyond the line of where the blade begins and ends. That will give me a straight cut and a professional finish on the project. Afterward I will rout out the lip of the motherboard tray to inlay it about 1/16". Pictures to follow...
Nice what screens behind that wood how big is it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirkillalot617
ViewSonic 22":D VX2235
I just got back from another business trip. I took time to cut out the openings for the front of the case as well as the power supply and mother board tray.
Here you see the 5.25" CD ROM and 3.5" slides for my computer. They fit like a glove and it looks just like I pictured. On the router tabel you see the rear of the computer case with the power supply and motherboard tray openings.
Here is a rear view of my drive cage that I salvaged from another case.
And one last view before it began to rain. I had to rush to get everything back in the garage.
That's gonna look peeerrrttyy! Great wood-working skills dude!
Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by MintyMadness
Thank you for your comments. I make the best sawdust in the world just not the best projects!:D Actually this is turning out very good and I'm looking forward to its completion. I need to find the electrical componets now (my office in my house is being refinished and I put everything in a safe place, where I don't know)!Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
Damn, that wood is gorgeous and you're doing great things with it. Keep it up.
+Rep
Are you going to put some trim around the optical/floppy housings?
Personally, I would put some dark wood trim there, but that's just me.
+rep, this is coming along very nicely!
I like you! LOOK AT ALL THEM TOOLS AND MACHINES!!! I'm jealous:( I want mine. I like your table saw and router table. Thats nice. Good job man!
:banana:Thanks. The table saw is about 22 years old and I'm looking to get a new Stop Saw that would replace it. But I have kept it in good shape and it followed me around while I was in the Navy.Quote:
Originally Posted by tribaloverkill
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrumThumper
Yes I plan to make custom trim to go around the drive cases. Also plan to do a custom fan grill with the logo from this forum as long as I get permission from the admin. I love dark trim so don't be surprised if you see some here.
Thank you. I plan to show some new progress the week of Memorial day. I have vacation that week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vertigo
The button for reset and power presented a little problem when it came to 3/4" cherry. The button was shorter then the thickness of the board.
So I measured the nut to see how big of hole it would take to allow me to mount the button. I used a 1" forstner drill bit to drill down to allow the shaft of the button to protrude through.
Above you can see a test drilling on a scrap board to see what it would take to mount this switch. Note that this board was only 5/8" but it still would give me valuable practice prior to drilling the cherry.
Using my drill press for accuracy I set up to drill the first half of the hole.
Make the first drill pass.
All the measurements were drawn on the board to set up the drilling.
Once I had the drill for the nut it was time to drill the rest of the hole.
Note the indentation in the center of the hole. I would use this to drill the same exact center for the smaller hole holding the shaft of the button.
Here I am drilling the second half of the hole. This is a 3/4" forstner drill bit. There is a small piece of wood under the face plate to prevent tear out.
Here are the holes with a shoulder to allow the button to attached to the face plate.
All that was left to do was to mount the button to the face plate and attach the nuts to test the design.
The next step will be to recess the drive cage into the face plate.
Looking great my friend! This case has been a pleasure to watch, as I am very much into woodworking and cherry is such a beautiful wood. Great job!
Thank you. The real work is just around the corner. I have to get all the inlays done prior to any glue up. The bottom has to be cut out to allow for air flow, water and electrical connections.Quote:
Originally Posted by tybrenis
Wow, your adding inlays to the case? Very cool! What sort of inlays will you be adding? Also, how do you plan on finishing the case? Cherry is such a beautiful wood I personally just like to rub it down with linseed oil.
Not finished with the drawings yet but I will post them at completion of the cad files. The will be hand done provided that time permits,Quote:
Originally Posted by tybrenis
Really nice work :up: unless the fact that I dislike wood for computer cases (moisture stays inside the case) it's an incredilble work and cant wait to see the final results
+rep
I have never had that problem with moisture, if the case is adequately vented. There are case fans to keep the air cirulating. There is also a maintenance switch to keep the fans running even after shutting down.Quote:
Originally Posted by slytherock
