This the effect of sealing the all the bleeders. Just not sure about the way it looks. Any thoughts ?
EDIT: Oh yeah, I need to change the position of the IR receivers for the microcontrollers as the signals probably will not get through anymore.
Printable View
This the effect of sealing the all the bleeders. Just not sure about the way it looks. Any thoughts ?
EDIT: Oh yeah, I need to change the position of the IR receivers for the microcontrollers as the signals probably will not get through anymore.
Hey Asphiax,
Would you mind if I sent a link of this project to Cryptic? Im sure theyd be interested in it. Might even get CBS' attention.
*EDIT : Nonsense
Okele,
Sure send it to Cryptic Studio's. Would be great to get some response from them!
And if CBS would pick it up ... Well ... That would be AWESOME!!!
Thansk dude!
With the reflective tape it kinda looks like you've got a giant frying pan there. It's great seeing people talking about Trek, I've been away from it for a while so it's been a nice trip down memory lane.
The build is looking good, keep up the good work!
This is actually where I had the idea of using the reflective tape for laminate flooring from. while zapping through my NAS i came across the signs folder and that always makes me think of this image.
I have already had so many people saying that they have started to re-view all the old series! Looks like I may start off a mini Star-Trek-Revival (not to say its ever been away offcourse!)
Thansk!
Don't worry about your sanity:
link
Ok I sent the link to Daniel Stahl, Cryptics creative director for Star Trek Online. It's in his hands now.Quote:
Originally Posted by ASPHIAX
:shoed: point taken !Quote:
Originally Posted by AmEv
Although a "Kirk loving Spock sucker" is quite an original one ...
LOL!
I love this build... +rep.
Thansk man !Quote:
Originally Posted by billygoat333
Here is a small update
The Epoxy clay is in and I feel like a kid again ...
(only wished I payed better attention at craft class,lol)
I was first planning on heating the depron with a small oven to about 90 degrees celsius and then bending it for the rims of the case. But after a small test last week I found out that my hands are not fireproof (How could I forget that :hurt:)
So the Apoxy Sculpt Clay is giving me the flexibility I need and will make for a sturdy rim after hardening.
Here is an overview with all the lines on the canope. Took some time but now I can "fill" every thing in with the depron/Apoxy combo.
"
This is the fun part ! I was really looking forward to the detailling of the canope.
You can just see the case come to life before your eyes.
FINALLY !!!!!
Yeah, you'd think I would have gotten past judging this kind of work based on initial impressions. This is indeed taking shape *very* nicely. +repQuote:
Originally Posted by ASPHIAX
Wow, think I missed a few posts! This is looking even more amazing than last time I was here and we were debating warp travel :D
Thanks ! I must say its quite a journey. I am now finally at the point I would like to be with this build. Didnt know much about modelling and had to figure out everything on the way. Great Fun though!Quote:
Originally Posted by blueonblack
Hi Munty, got any more questions I can dig out? LOL! I have entered the coolermaster contest so I will need to keep momentum. Hope to have all the detailling of the canopy finished by the end of the week. The microcontrollers should be arriving by that time!Quote:
Originally Posted by Munty
Here is another short update !
Gotta keep the wheels turning for the may deadline of the coolermaster contest
Still a lot of work.
A little jump forward, I was so concentrated on the work, I forgot to take pictures
Slowly but surely its starting to look like something!
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Finally had some time to translate. Be prepared , this is going to be a big post!
Doing the lining is very important or else you can find yourself a fat centimeter higher on the right side as you can see on this picture. Did have to do my best to get this resolved, but success!
Here are some detailed pictures of the Apoxy Clay
Took some pics this morning of the caly work of last night. Even though I have not done anything with Clay since I was like 10 years old, the work is progressing nicely.
The trick is to let the clay harden a bit before putting it on. That way when you apply some pressure it doesnt turn to mush when you're being a bit to forcefull. I am thinking when everything is finished and sanded and painted you wont be able to see the difference between the clay and the depron.
A guy on another forum asked me what the reason was I used clay instead of depron for certain parts. Here is the answer!
Thansk for asking! Took some pics this morning.
here is a plate of depron and a A4 piece of paper. Will be using the paper as I am carefull with my depron ;-) (this depron is 3 mm thick btw)
To bend a cornour is relatively easy. Done this with my wife's hairdryer, a heatgun or paintstripper, although the heatgun and stripper heated the depron to quickly which buckled.
But its not the only bend I need to make. Esspecially the nose is a complex collection of curves and bends. If you would to bend the depron like this it would be possible to cut out the wrinkles and make the pieces to fit but the front would be covered with straight lines and it should be a perfectly smooth curve!
I tried different techniques, from heatguns to hairdryers to little ovens, I even boiled the depron but i just wouldnt work or turn out the way I wanted it. The clay does all that without bruning myself.
Small update on the work yesterday
Here is a good example why the depron work can sometimes take so long and you have to redo certain parts.
Nice and straight line right? I put a line in with paint for clarification.
Guess again !!!! Due to all the different curves I almost have to start to think in 3D!
Well that was it for now,
Laterz
ASPHIAX
way more impressive than what i thought this going to turn out to be.
Increasingly stunning with every post! How much does this weigh in at right now ASP? I'm not good with actual weights so try and compare it to something for me if you could lmao. Like how many times as heavy as a standard PC tower is it for example? If indeed it is, maybe it's a lot lighter than I imagine it to be ;)
this thing looks meean!!
Now I'm tempted to do one based on the Defiant. :think:
And in the left corner we have the Dragon Lord K62 Miditower, weighing at 9,9 Kg's (K62 is heavily modded with 2 windows and a 280 radiator - 1.5Kg - in the top)Quote:
Originally Posted by Munty
And in the right corner we have the newcomer USS EURISKO, surprisingly weighing in at 9,6 Kg's with only the reservoirs fitted in the warp nacelles
Both contestants have been kindly asked to remove the PSU to have the best Aluminum to Glass-Fiber/MDF comparison!
Thansk for watching!
Voyager with a couple of spoonfulls of Bad-4ss !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by billygoat333
Sure is a sweet model !Quote:
Originally Posted by f8l_0e
Wow, you seem to have been able to keep weight really reasonable without any compromise to coolness. Good work man ;) Continuing to love it :D
can you put those weights in real weight instead of imaginary kilo-gram stuff?
Troy
pound lb t = 12 ounces, 240 pennyweight, 5760 grains or 0.373 kilogram
9.6 Kg = 25.7 pounds (US)
Google lists a pound as being 0.453 kilograms, making 9.6 kgs a little over 21 lbs.
1 troy or apothecaries' pound = 0.82 avoirdupois pound = 0.37 kilogram
1 avoirdupois pound = 1.2 troy or apothecaries' pounds = 0.45 kilogram
1 kilogram = 2.205 avoirdupois pounds
You are right! I did a search and found only the apothecairies pound and used that value.
I stand corrected (and happy the weight is actually 4 lbs lower!)
Here is an update on the LCARS Fancontroller.
After spending several hours cutting out the final pieces from the panel it looks like this. Put the LXE next to it to give an idea of the layout.
I ran this front through the CNC of a friend of mine but the result is not completely there yet. There are little pieces curled up in the corners that i just can remove. Tried a heatgun (almost ruined the whole front with it as the rapid heating caused the thin element to buckle), scalpels and a soldering device. Just isnt the cleanness I was hoping for.
Gonna try lasercutting the front now!
Keep you updated!
Here is another update.
Got tired of the depron work and descided to go and do some hardware work.
This is my first serious build and I was able to get some execellent hardware.
Lets start with the Gigabyte motherboard. Isnt she pretty with them golden accents and good eye-candy factor!
Unfortunately I am going to have to do some work on it. I want to completely Watercool the EURISKO and I will have to change out the stock motherboard cooling elements.
This one is going in the cabinet with special hardware at the office. Beautifull piece of technology!
And these I hve to fit onto the mobo. From left to right; EK Mosfet Waterblock, Koolance 370 CPU waterblock and finally the EK NF200/SB Waterblock
Installing them took about an hour. Always a fine fiddly work work with them standoffs
While installing the 2600K the first thing you notice is the split in the processor socket.
I am not going to push the setup to its absolute limits (but I will give it a good run) So I opted for 8Gb Corsair 1600 CL7 RAM. Looks good and has ditto reviews, so we will see!
Also fitted all the Bitspower fittings. Which Fittings? Well these :
Credz to Vincent!
This is how I am intending to fit all the hardware. (a plexiglass sheet will cover the mdf)
Put the tubing in its place also to see if I had enough. Need to order a couple of feet more!
Well that was it for today, thansk for watching!
ASPHIAX
Here is another update.
Had a couple of bad weeks modding wize ...
All sorts of deliveries didnt show up when I had the time to work on them and once they came they send the wrong stuff. Very annoying and I am starting to worry about the coolermaster contest. especially now I have decided to rebuild the entire warp nacelle setup. but thats for later in this post. let start at the beginning ...
I spend several hours thrying to think my way out of the warp nacelle setup as I need to be able to get to the components inside to change out a tube or fix a leak.
So I made a plug to go over the front and back of the nacelle.
Had all sorts of idea's on how to be able to remove them and some people on the dutch forums were really creative with magnets and stuff. I decided on using velcro. Unfortunately I was only able to put really small strips of the stuff in the edges of the MDF. I ordered the heavy duty velcro and now when I remove the plug, I take the whole velcro with it. To much adhesive power is a bad thing here , LOL
Also the inside towards the nacelle needs to be nice so I made some ridges out of depron. I can't finalise the nacelles because I dont have the led/mircocontroller setup yet so I had to fix everything with tape ...
It all needs to be filled out with putty and sanded
You can start to see why I decided to redo the whole warp nacelles setup.
To fat, clunky, too high, relative size compared to main body, pointing inwards, just doesnt ring my perfectionist bell .
The front and back have been fitted with a plug, but I also have to be able to get to the fittings in the pylon for placing tyraps or tube clamps.
Solution was an MDF panel that is screwed in. Just have to make the detailling on the outside so i can reach them at all times. Challenges , challenges, challenges ...
Here is a picture of what I am planning to do. Get the res out of the casing and make a new hexagon side panel. This will reduce the courners making it more fluid and remove some fatness... (black is what it was, red what it will become.
Bottom picture is what I initially had in mind but a ellipsoid res is nowhere to be found.
Visio version of the design
The new nacelle compared to the old. The dif is huge !
and if its to small now compared to the main body, thats easily fixed with depron detailling
Nice big surface area for the light to come out of the nacelle, even when it is in warp configuration.
All the fittings are now within the MDF, this resolves a lot of tension the tubing was placcing on the XPS foam. It has got some extra room to fit the led lights now. Just have to think of another way to get to the fittings it once its finished. All good (time-consuming) Fun !!!
Looks sweet man. One question, maybe I missed it but where is your fill port? How are you going to fill and drain the system?
Good question, one I asked myself also when I put the hardware together.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuganater
I ordered a Bitspower Q block and fitted a fillport directly onto the ingress of the pump.
Great work mate, I've just read through the whole project and as a ST fan myself your doing it proud.
You probably don't ever want to work with fibreglass again :D but if you do this might help.
I used to work with fibreglass for a job making everything from canoes to water tanks I can't be sure from the photos but it looks like you used a cross woven glass matting for some of the work if that's correct it's why you had problems getting the mat to form into the corners and angles it's too thick and doesn't break down like glass mat made from chopped strands, woven should be sandwiched between layers of matting making a laminate woven mat on it's own can be subject to de-lamination or 'peeling' from surface, the woven matting is best used on relatively flat surfaces with simple corners and angles it's not really necessary for small unstressed jobs.
When laying up the first few layers on a complicated shape you need to use glass tissue matting which as it's name suggests is very thin like tissue paper and is very easy to work into tight corners and angles then use thicker matting (not woven) on top to reinforce as required,
Not sure what glass fibre resin you used but most resin goes a greenish colour as it cures and hardens and you can see the matting you've laid down go green, this is a good time before it hardens completely to trim a lot of the excess matting off the edges with a stanley knife it's called, duh, "green trimming" and can save a lot of time and is easier than trimming the remaining hardened glass later.
Keep up the good work, plus rep :up:
Best compliment I can get ! Thansk man!Quote:
Originally Posted by Beta-brain
Well, the first time was a complete disaster, second time went a little better and the third time it went kinda ok!Quote:
Originally Posted by Beta-brain
Yeah I used woven matt 180 grams. Now I know that's just insain! No way are you going to get anything resembling a corner with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beta-brain
I was told epoxy and glass mats dont work together. I dont think there will be a next time soon, but you never know, so when it happens I will look into the mats.
Its been a good learning experience though!
Thanks and thank you for all the tips! Greately appreciated !Quote:
Originally Posted by Beta-brain
Ok, Here is another weekend update.
Finally a good day after all the setbacks timewize.
Rebuilding the warp Nacelles (the other ones were just tryouts)
Thinner, sharper, more according to the designs, time well worth!
with the little coverpieces around the reservoirs its going to be good wiorking the depron.
And directly into the paint. probably not going to be able to see the backwall with the gigawatts in leds I am going to put it , lol
Also my plexiplate for the mdf baseplate finally arrived ! gonna saw it up tomorrow
Also was able to think my way out of the lcars fancontroller and designed the whole bottomsaucer depron work.
Finally a good day, hope to have one tomorrow also!
Laterz
ASPHIAX
Kim to the Captain ...
Janeway : Yes mr Kim
Kim : Good news from engineering mam, we are ready for a pressure test of the new warp nacelles.
Janeway : well then mr Kim, by all means go ahead !
Kim : Pressure test beginning in 5...
4...
3...
3...
1...
Mark ...
Janeway : Ehh I am no expert but shouldnt there be a glowing phenomenon coming from the nacelles ?
Kim : Let me try re-calibrating the Molex converter and adjust the PSU Output by bypassing all non-essential SATA stations ...
Janeway : I am waiting ..
Kim : AHHH ... Succes !!!
ASPHIAX : Please to report a two hour full leak test !
Pfew ...
Oh wow that looks really fricken cool!
It's looking good - can't wait to see it done.
Here is a short update on the LCARS Fancontroller.
I have had to make compromises due to time stress. Will not be using different coulour leds in this version (ther will be a multicolour version somewhere in the future!!!) Also the on/off/reset buttons will not be implemented, but they will be present in the Lian-Li mediabay that will be fitted in the foot of the case.
Received the vinyl sticker from dennis from significs.nl. Works like a charm although I was fiddling around with it a bit as this was the first time i ever fitted a sticker like this.
Think it looks good !!!
My camera does not display the correct light ratio's between the fancontroller and the panel. the controller is easy readible "in real life". Colour is the same just a tad less bright.
