If you could combine both (with arches in the copper to support removal........
But MAN THAT THING IS HUGE!
Printable View
If you could combine both (with arches in the copper to support removal........
But MAN THAT THING IS HUGE!
Quote:
Originally Posted by licenseless
if you ask me... this is much nicer and goes with the flow of the case than the copper tabs (and i know it was just used to clamp stuff down but it still looked better)
thats just my opinion man... but keep up the good work
^^^^ I agree
Not given up on the idea, seemed to have gathered some motivation after doing that bottom panel :).Quote:
Originally Posted by licenselessif you ask me... this is much nicer and goes with the flow of the case than the copper tabs (and i know it was just used to clamp stuff down but it still looked better)
thats just my opinion man... but keep up the good work
That is another alternative :), I think it'll look pretty normal once the hardware goes in :).Quote:
Originally Posted by AmEv
Seems a popular choice then :D, it was voigts who suggested it he has a good eye for quality :).Quote:
Originally Posted by BS Mods
I'm trying to think of a way to implement the copper curve bars but I found it was too much copper & it didn't look right to me, plus it messed up the form of the aluminium curve, fixed it now but it'll require a good bit more work on them to make them a perfect fit without it adding excess force to the main structure, I'm considering using the drill press & the milling bit I have to route a 10mm channel 1mm deep to place aluminium in there & so the mounts go through the alu, I'm not certain but I think it'll look much better than big plain copper bars.
Another alternative but requires a purchase of 1.2mm copper sheet is to do a pyramid step type form so a 25mm copper bar, then a aluminium one then a copper bar & the middle 1 being the mounting one.
Heres a concept of both.
I was going to make an alternative for the tabs that stretch across the case but everyone saying do those :D so came up with a couple of alternatives that I think would look better, so let me know what you think, cheers :).
man either way looks nice to me
the inlay of aluminium on copper is AWESOME!!!
Thanks mate :), I'll remake the stretched tabs that are currently on it & make my mind up from there, it's possible it'll look good once I change those 2 tabs, but I'll still do a small piece to see how the inlayed alu in copper looks to help make my mind up :up:.Quote:
Originally Posted by licenseless
Well rested & back on form, shame my tools aren't :facepalm: decided to give the copper bars another shot but with a strip of alu in the middle like in the concept pics I shown earlier, got 1 of the copper strips straightened back out.
Here I am getting the centre of the copper bar aligned with alu flat bars clamped in place to stop it moving around, I did clamp extra bars on top to hold it in place properly vertically too but it made it so the copper couldn't slide through :neutral:, anyway it all went wrong because of the crappy drill table moving up or the chuck letting the mill bit move down & ended up milling all the way through the flipping piece grrrr, think I'll accept I can't mill good with a drill press now :wacky:.
The main problem is getting the correct depth when doing this, takes ages to set the depth & for it to stay there, I tightened it all up good & proper but still just wasn't enough, mills are way too expensive for me so next best in line is a router.
But I can safely say the full length copper pieces will not happen on this, I tried with what I've got & failed so I'll keep working on tabs & reserve the copper for something else.
Just taking a quick time out to post this, then I'm getting back onto it :D.
under neath the clamps on the exit side of the path for the copper... place another piece of metal above that so that the copper has to ride underneath it like a bridge to hold the copper in place so it doesnt want to flex up causing it to rise and drill all the way threw...
basically make a guide... so you have two pieces of metal giving it the path and two more pieces of metal going perpendicular to those two pieces forcing the copper down.... does that make since...
and keep it lubed baby yeah hahahaahaha
hehe :D, Yeah makes sense mate :up: but it wasn't that that caused it to go deep, it was either the drill platform moved to a different higher height which is doubtful so I'll rule that possibility out, I'd say it was the milling bit came down a bit causing it to cut deeper, it went too far along to make this piece usable & the copper is too expensive to be wasting like that, so I'm not sure I'll bother with copper strips, not got deep enough pockets lol, was ok with the acrylic as it wasn't expensive but the copper :eek::D.Quote:
Originally Posted by licenseless
I'll find a solution to make it good though :):up:.
Didn't get to do any more on it today, garage got taken over :D, but was sunny again so took a couple extra pictures :D, also flipped the copper mesh around & think it's more fitting with tiny countersinks so matches the other front vents better, so will need to make a new eject button hole.
Gonna have to drill & bung a thread insert into the clamping piece inside the fretsaw, it will not tighten up so the blade is very slack so it's only any good for thin or soft materials & even then can pop out quite easy so I'll need to find out the thread size so I can maybe even make my own, the blade keeps popping out when cutting thicker metal, so irritating.
Made a few tabs out of 5mm acrylic but prefer the copper so wasn't able to make a few with the fretsaw & my hacksaw died a bit ago which just leaves the jigsaw or manual fretsaw as an option lol grrr, manual fretsaw the blades keep breaking very easily (I must just lack technique on using it like any new tool) just not as good as a powered one for me, with the powered one I could effortlessly cut how I wanted on the line & I just can't with a manual one without a heap of practice.
Finally got around to re-painting the pci/io piece with the far better copper spray :D & think that's the best news in this update lol.
And here is the vent meshes showing what it looks like with the small copper tabs & acrylic tabs but while I don't prefer the look of the full stretch tabs I just can't ignore they do what's needed which is to keep the panels at the same level all along the full length, they will be re-made so they haven't got the un-needed extra countersunk hole, might even thin them down in the middle so they don't stand out as much.
There is however another way to keep it so the window is held in place nicely & that would be to add a couple more tabs just below the vents but it would put the spacing out a bit.
Or even JB weld the internal tabs in place & just go & do full length tabs so it's easier to install & remove a full length tab.
I'm getting way too indecisive about what I'm doing regarding the tabs, it's just not fun modding, would have probably completed this by now if I chose to pass on the full length strips.
I'm sure the sudden increase of heat isn't helping neither, I tend to mod best in the cold, keeps me more alert & not slouchy, been 1 of those days where I'm lingering in the garage thinking what on earth should I do :think:.
Had a thought & it might be a good one or bad :D, since seeing JB weld getting used a bit lately, I wonder if it's possible & what would happen if I layered strips of 1mm alu & 1mm copper on top of each other if it would stay firm when removing the main curve bars & avoiding the need to use bolts, could give it a very clean look or it could just fall apart when removed, I just don't know, there is a bit of force in the window & the curve bars which is a part of what keeps it all strong so layering up while it's in this form maybe it could make it keep the form when removed, either that or the adhesive on the stuck on bits would just crack & pop off lol & I'd be gutted :D I'd put a strip of 1mm alu on the inside too.
I do think if the adhesive is up to the challenge it could work well but could use a little feedback if you think it could do it, I checked out with google to see how strong it is compared to welding & some say it's about 30% of the strength of the material while welding is just as strong & the 30% is only when the material is prepped properly, I wouldn't be able to smother it on neither, wouldn't want it to squeeze out making a mess so just enough to let it get stuck well, I'm thinking for the top layer it would be a minimal strip of the adhesive to stop it making a mess.
If that was to work well I'd be able to remove the whole lot as 1 piece by unbolting at the top rear & bottom front, but that would be putting a lot of faith into the strength of the adhesive though.
What do you guys think? is JB weld good enough for this?.
