nice work you got, +rep
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nice work you got, +rep
Thank you B1Gtime.Quote:
Originally Posted by B1Gtime
That looks like its going to be beautiful when its all finished. +rep!
The jewelry boxes are very nice as well.
I used to watch that show all the time when I was younger. I would watch it with my uncle and then try to build something similar and make him proud. Think I did so a couple times...good times, good times
Oh yea,... I cut aluminum and acrylic with mine. But still,... I am dying to get a better one:( Good job man:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tale Gunner
I still watch or record the show every Saturday. I will watch it no matter what the subject is because it still has educational information.Quote:
Originally Posted by NightrainSrt4
Glad to see that I could help you relive good memories. Sweet....
Thank you very much.
I wish I had a spare to share with you. Anyone that is intrested in routers can only be good.....;)Quote:
Originally Posted by tribaloverkill
Because I have received emails asking about the locking mitre I thought I would post some pictures how it works.
The bit and fence were already adjusted from the other day.
First the horizontal board.
Then the vertical board.
Then a pic of the 2 different boards. The wider board was the vertical and the skinny board was the horizontal.
Then a pic of the joined boards.
Because of safety reasons I cannot take any action pictures unless my wife would help out. Maybe I can get my daughter to help but shes gonna want her picture in the log too. LOL
How's that old saying go? The family that mods together stays together or something along those lines?
+rep when I can, I've got to spread the love, so to speak.
Amazing Job on those Jewelry Cases! I admire the work your doing on the PC case as well. You should try to make a Toolbox similar to a Gerstner, my Father collects them. Even to this day he still won't let me touch them. .Says "Do it and you will lose a Hand" :)
Too funny. Gotta love those toolboxes... Thank you....:banana:Quote:
Originally Posted by Eclecticos
Love it thank you....Quote:
Originally Posted by DrumThumper
LOL Crimson Sky big smiles.............
My son came back from camp today to tell me he wants to start making more projects. When he showed me his latest work I had to agree. He loves computers and now wood working. Hes 9 years old.
Then he asked if he could put an decorative edge on his unit using dad's router table. I couldn't say no.
THIS made your 9 years old son? *jealous*
Yep he wants to see what he can do. He asked if we could sand the edges round and route the top to give it a specal finish for Mom.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrooP
I had planned to do trim this weekend, but things changed. My wife's birthday is next Tuesday so I have finish shopping for her present. I think maybe tonight I will do the raised panel door frame. Since the frame is 2 1/2" deep with a 3/4" panel on the front I will route both sides and bottoms with the interlocking bit prior to cutting them to width. That way I have a 6 or 7 inch board to work with which is easier then the 2 1/2" board. Then I will cut them to the correct width. The boards will already be cut to length so this will make the entire process easy.
:pics:
Here what I got done tonight. First I cut the boards the proper size.
For those who have been asking for a action shot here it is. The blade is still spinning. LOL (humor)
I set the door up just for checking the work
Then I used the clamp to hold it together to see what it looked like against the case.
Great fit.
Now from the front to see that nothing will be hit with the door.
Here is a better pic still with the clamp on it so don't write me and tell me its up to high now! LOL
We are moving forward with the door. With the frame cut out and routed, the next step is to drill the hinges for the door. Barrel hinges are great but require strict accuracy. 1/32" off here multiplies X2 over there.
Now to put the rest of the door together and see what it looks like with the case.
And with it closed...
Success. Now I can move to the next step of the door. Glue up then create the raised panel. Feeling great about this project.
Damn dude, that is looking good! You still going to go with all black hardware?
Thank you very much. To answer your question right now, Yes. There may be some other things in the fold here. Someone sent me a PM with a great suggestion. A custom wood bezel for the drives. I will look at that closely and see what these old hands can do.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
That sounds cool too, can't wait to see what you come up with.
I'm bored to death. Watching glue dry hmmmmmmmmmm. Thats like watching grass die, or bread rise....... LOL
While I'm waiting for the glue to dry and since its a beautiful day I'm taking advantage of the weather. I set up my router table to cut some trim. I think I'm gonna need some input as to which trim to use. I will be posting some different cuts of trim here as we go. The first is a simple cove bit cut with 3/16" lip on either side of the cove.
Here are some of my router bits to choose from.
After setting up the cove bit and putting the rest pin in the table I route the board.
Next step is to set up the table saw. I want the rip fence set to 3/4". Since this is way to small to attempt with only my hands I used my gripper. The gripper is adjustable to prevent from hitting the blade.
The end result is a nice trim piece for my unit. This is the first attempt to see what kind of trim looks the best. (Thanks Norm for the lessons on making your own trim)
So that's my first. This is the same as all the cad files show. Next its a roman ogee profile.
Looking awesome!
The cove trim compliments the piece beautifully - the simple curves and nice flow add to this. I'd also love to see how the ogee bit will look - I think that could be great too.
Yes I've had a great day and I wanted to do as much as possible with the table saw and router. I have more pics of the different trims.
Roman Ogee is the next set of pics.
Does anyone like one over the other. I can create more from different profiles such as a beveled look (45 degrees), rounded over (opposite of the cove), beaded look (a 1/4" bead at the top of the trim and more. Let me know what you think, like or don't like.
There it is take a look and let me know.Quote:
Originally Posted by tybrenis
To add to your decision here is the panel cutter for the raised panel door.
Im really favoring the cove bit.
I vote for the cove bit it looks the best to me.
And congrats to your son on a job well done! :D
And with you to teach him he can only get better.
Charles
Thanks Wannabeamodder. I'm looking foward to your project. Hope everything is going well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannabeamodder
I vote for the cove bit too. I wasn't sure at first, but that last picture convinced me.
Good luck! ^_^
Thanks SnowFire Most have agreed that the cove bit is the one to go with.Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowFire
Today I took a chance at a raised panel door. I have never attempted this before so this would be my first shot. I am pleased so far.
As soon as I get the panels I will post more
:pics:
Well here is my first panel for my door. I am excited about the progress. Norm I couldn't do it without your show.
Damn man,... so jealous. GAWD.
Hey when I look at your thread I feel the same way. GAWDQuote:
Originally Posted by tribaloverkill
Well I ran out of wood large enough to use for panels. So it was back to the table saw.
Rip 2 more boards.
Plane them to 3/4".
Route the edges.
And glue them up.
Well at least its dark here so I don't have to worry about anything else tonight. I cleaned up the shop and put all the tools away for today.
I think I just cant quit working on this project. I am really enjoying myself. Its great therapy. I have removed the board from the clamps and scraped off the excess glue in preparation for sanding tomorrow.
Dude,... thats a Delta saw table? How you like it? Pros, cons? What you pay for it if you dont mind? Reason I ask becaue I was looking at a Delta saw table. It was like 500 or so but it ws a really nice heavy duty table. Is yours belt driven?
Yes that is a Delta saw (contractors saw) It has many extras on it. First there is the second cast iron extension on the left. (the right comes with the saw). The second thing is it is a 50" extension on the right for plywood sheet cuting. Then under the table on the trunion I have the PALS system. Thats a Precision Alignment and Locking System. I have dial indicators that show when the alignment is off. I use a master plate and super bar for all adjustments on the table. Mine measured yesterday was .005" off before alignment. Afterwards is measured at .002" which either was acceptable but I just like to try to keep it as close as possible. The inserts are zero clearance for the least amount of tear out. The knife at the rear of the blade is a Merlin spliter to prevent kick back. The table itself is on a mobile base. I have the Unifence for convenience only. If I were to do it again I would get the Biesemeyer fence just because you can build jigs onto the fence system easier then the Unifence. Many of your contractor saws are belt driven. Some are direct drive (DeWalt comes to mind) but I like the belt driven. It has a Power Twist link belt for the best drive you can get from a v-belt. Thats not to say that its better then the ribbed belts. It was the drive system that came with the saw. I just updated it with the linked belt for smoother operation. I put stainless steel pulleys on the trunion and motor because they were better balanced. So there are things you can do to the Delta contractor saw to make it better.Quote:
Originally Posted by tribaloverkill
The original cost of my saw was $400 (many years ago). $500 is not a bad price for the saw but you have to find out what comes with that price tag. If its used get someone to go through the saw before you buy it. If the trunion is bad STOP. You will pay more then $500 to get a new one. Have them check the run out on the trunion (done with a dial indicator). Run out measurement checks how true the blade is at 90 degrees. If the blade wobbles its one of two main things. Blade or trunion is bad.
And don't go out and get one of those thin kerf blades. Its only 1/16" of savings on the wood, but the blade will need to be stiffined. Thats a thing about 1/4" thick that looks like a huge washer that rests against the blade to keep it from flexing while the blade is running. What a pain in the (you know the rest). Spend money on a good blade up front and you won't be dissapointed. I use Forest Wood Worker II on my saw. Its the best in my book but thats my opinion. It runs anywhere from $90 to $130 so don't be surprised. And when its time for sharpening the blade don't take it to Uncle Sams pawn shop and sharpening service. It takes someone who know what they are doing to sharpen the blade. Hope that helps some.....
