Dude this is an amazing project! Read through the whole worklog yesterday and just didn't know how best to applaud your work :D You are a true craftsman and I'll be wathing this right till the end ;) +rep
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Dude this is an amazing project! Read through the whole worklog yesterday and just didn't know how best to applaud your work :D You are a true craftsman and I'll be wathing this right till the end ;) +rep
Thansk mate !Quote:
Originally Posted by Munty
If you read it from beginning to end you can see there are a lot of twists and turns in the planning and execution. I mean: try one thing, doesnt look ok or doesnt fit, scrap it, think of something else and start again. All good fun !
wow.. just... awesome.
Isn't that what it's all about? Especially being scratch built there will be issues that turn up and need to be dealt with. But you are making amazing progress. I'm not much of a Trekkie but this is going to be wonderful, awesome, epic. I'll definitely be following this build. :up: +repQuote:
Originally Posted by ASPHIAX
Huge rep. Everyone do the same now!
Once primed and painted, I doubt if the light will still bleed through.:up:
Well even though the glow lines look very cool, they were not intended! I suspected the verticals would become bleeders but i hadnt anticipated the horizontal ones. (i actually played with the idea to do all the vertical ones with mesh but that would destroy the structural stiffness of the canope. The previous foto's didnt show the biggest bleeder!Quote:
Originally Posted by mDust
Starship with sunroof anyone?
The Epoxy/glass layer dries transparantly. This is made of 6 layers of 160 grams glass with a 2 cm thick layer Epoxy. Virtually indestructable.
To talk about structural stiffnes of the model here are some more details.
The Canope is made of about 1 cm layer of XPS foam (they make spoilers for race cars out of this stuff) , thick filling layer (ok, not as thick everywhere, see the bleeding light effect) and several layers of 160 grams glassfiber with epoxy on the inside and outside.
I think together these 2 cases with the K62 having a 280 rad in the hood are about 10-12 kg!
It's an impressively sturdy build you have there and no doubt :D Have you thought about maybe trying to mask the bleeds with thick tape or similar on the inside? I'm not sure how much will be visible but if you won't be able to see any of the areas in question it might be an easy fix to the solution if filler/paint isn't quite enough...
Here is the design for the fan/led controller I want to use for the EURISKO.
It will be integrated into a LCARS display in the standard that will support the model.
I will use a NZXT Sentry LXE with a remote touchscreen display like this one :
Sentry LXE
The Idea is to take a thick piece of dark plexi and fit the buttons with transparant clear plexi. Different colour leds will light the buttons randomly with certain ones lit continuous making the screen come alive.
The NZXT LXE touchscreen fancontroller will be integrated into the panel after stripping the casing of it. The blueish voyager button left corner will be fitted with a on/off switch for the pc.
Really looking forward to this job, it might just get precedence above other work!
The colours in the design might change depending on the colour leds I will receive, but the layout is almost final!
Regards from Austria!
ASPHIAX
Good idea! If the filler/paint doesnt do the job, this will be an very good backup plan! Thanks !Quote:
Originally Posted by Munty
