this case = pure computer sex.
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this case = pure computer sex.
Thanks, Couch! :up:
Hey, diluzio! Thank you for the very kind compliments!
Yeah, I have some of those MDPC button-head screws that you linked. And while they look great, even the smallest they have are a little too long to screw down flush into the SSD holes, so they stick out a little on the sides. I could try cutting them with a bolt cutter, but I have some set screws on the way that I'm going to try first.
But yeah, you're on the right track as I've thought of that myself. :)
x88x, do you have any examples of this "soft plastic" that you mentioned? It'd help me to have a visual.
I'll check out boltdepot.com. Thanks.
Yeah, they are. Their prices just seem to be a little steep.
Thanks, billygoat! That's just the look I'm going for.
Short update-- I'm in the process of moving all of my tools into a local storage unit that I've just rented out as my new workspace as there remains some fab work to be done before refleXion is ready to go off to paint. So this will help speed things along. I have almost all the parts now that are going into refleXion. The EK chipset/mosfet block should arrive today, and I'll snap a few pics so that everyone can see how it looks on the board.
Hmm, tbh I didn't really have anything specific in mind; maybe a small dab of hotglue sanded flush? Or maybe a soft modeling clay? I know Crayola Modeling Magic sets rather soft; that might actually be useful for just filling the screw hole straight; fill the hole with it, let it set, then use two pins to 'unscrew' it?
+rep...for that motherboard alone. Don't let that go to waste.
EDIT: Oh jeez, I gotta spread it around first. I'll get ya later.
We'll see. I have some small set screws on the way to try first, and if these don't work then I may look into some kind of a body filler. Thanks.
Thanks, mDust. :)
Shots from the studio. The new motherboard and full chipset block have arrived--
An added, unexpected benefit from this new board is that not only does it match my color scheme a lot better because of the mostly black connectors, but the few connectors on the board that are a grayish silver match these DangerDen nickel-plated blocks almost perfectly. :)
You may notice that I've removed the stickers from the SSDs to give them a cleaner look. I also have some 6-32 set screws on the way to fill those holes on the sides (thanks again for the suggestion, KG.)
In addition, the Zero Gravity Chamber center panel window that they're mounted to has been framed in black to dress up the piece by hiding the rough edges of the perspex.
The EK full cover chipset block for the eVGA X58 SLI LE in nickel/acetal. This thing is beautiful.
Very fine craftsmanship, Eddy. :up:
The block's not installed yet because I first need to test this eVGA board and make sure it's not DOA.
More to come into the weekend.
Very nice, I love the look of the new MBB. That is gonna fit your look much better than the Foxconn did. :D
... I've said it before, and I'll say it again... -- Babble. Drool. --
Hahaha, still love the mod mate. The nickel is lookin pretty sleek.
Holy hell that's nice, I assume your gonna polish the caps on this board as well?
I only wish I could do this. This is the nicest computer I have ever seen, I love the floating SSDs and the water cooling. Like I said, I could only dream about doing something this crazy.
Indeed it does, x88x. The color scheme matches perfectly now. ;)
Thanks, Couch! :)
You know, I've been thinking about it and am just not sure at this point. If you look at the 5970s, they have the same colored caps. And I just can't bring myself to polish those since it would void the warranty on 1200$ worth of GPUs. :P
So I haven't decided for certain yet whether to polish the caps on this eVGA board or not. May wait until all the watercooling parts are on it and then decide. That way I can see how it all looks together.
Wow, thank you very much, StyleCore. That's a great compliment. I'm very glad that you're enjoying the build that much.
There is a lot more to come. There's much that still hasn't been revealed.
Made a lot of progress on the build today. :)
So today was my first day in my new workshop! Yeah, yeah.. it's nothing really that special. Concrete walls, a single light bulb with a string attached hanging from the ceiling (that's why I bought that new double-head 1000w Halogen monster that you see in the above picture there.) Probably rats scurrying somewhere about behind the concrete walls.
But hey, it's 10x20 ft, gives me plenty of room, and I have a heavy metal garage band just a few doors down from me so I never have to wear headphones. :lol:
But seriously, today was great. For the first time since I began refleXion--which is now about 4 months ago--I had both the space and privacy I need to really push this thing ahead and into the home stretch. I've fallen so behind on my fab work, and now it's time to bring all that up to speed so refleXion can go off to paint and start looking a little sexier than the scratched up aluminum it's wearing now.
So, we begin by taking a look at the motherboard tray. As you can see here below, in its current state it looks quite ugly. It has a bent side and is overlaying part of the pump windows on the Zero Gravity Chamber. Two big no-nos for this build. I want that back side looking clean even though it won't be seen a lot of the time.
Yuck, right? It gets even worse. You can see here that not only is it covering part of the pump windows, but it's angled in and pushing the Zero-G Chamber lop-sided.
So, this thing is getting hacked today. If you look at where my fingers are resting, this is where we'll cut--right along that bend.
If you look just to the right of my fingers in that above picture, you'll see a threaded screwhole. Not the ones for standoffs but to the left of them. There are three of these running vertical along the Zero-G Chamber. Perfect. After we cut this piece, we'll drill matching holes into the Zero Gravity Chamber to mount it to. This will both look clean and provide more stability for that motherboard tray.
This isn't a flat piece, so finding the right tool to cut on it was tricky. A jig won't work, because the edge guide has nothing flat to sit on. Neither will a circular saw.
Well, I've been waiting to put this dremel of mine to good use (other than polishing nickel as before) so it looks as if it's time for it to sweat a little.
Here you'll see that I'm lining it up along that bend. We'll cut this piece lengthwise along that bend to give us a smooth, flush fit against the Zero G Chamber.
To cut, I'm using the heavy duty quick fit metal grinding wheel. Such a big name for something so small (actually, I just made that up.. I think. I don't remember what it's called, exactly.)
Here we go.
It's doing a great job so far. This began kicking up some metal dust, so I strapped on my 3M multi-purpose respirator. Don't wanna be breathing this stuff. Sorry, I don't have a pic of it, and you're probably better off not seeing it on me. My face is scary enough without a bio mask.
Still doing a great job but that grinding wheel is vanishing right before my eyes. I have a feeling that most of the dust I'm seeing around me is this thing practically vaporizing before my very eyes.
And here, off we go.
This actually worked better than I thought it would. It was the perfect tool for the job since this was thin aluminum that I was working with.
To get this nice and smooth, though, we'll hit it with a file.
And.. after about 15 minutes of filing this is how it looks afterward. A nice even cut.
Running my fingers along it, it still felt a little rough and sharp--even after 15 minutes of filing. So I broke out my new toy, a Black and Decker multi-purpose sander.
This thing is slick. It has 4 quick attachments for different uses. An orbital, a mouse, a flat belt and... well, the other escapes me at the moment. Trust me though, it's cool.
I slapped the orbital attachment on it, and this really got the edges nice and smooth.
So, let's fit her and see how she looks.
I'm liking that a lot. Looks much better.
(To be continued.)
Framework - Part II
Next item on the agenda was to tackle those corner supports.
To provide some history, the drive cages were removed from the Cosmos so as to make room for the Zero Gravity Chamber. However, when doing so, the corner supports for the frame were lost in the process.
So then I was faced with the task of either making some from scratch or modifying the drive cage. And.. you guessed it. I've never passed up the chance to rip up some metal.
Here in this pic you'll see the right side of the drive cage that was removed. You can see how there's no room for it in the frame, and I wouldn't want it in there, anyway. I removed it because I hated how it looked in there to begin with. But it served an important job which was to provide support for the corners of the frame.
So.. don't panic when you see this below, but one night when I was bored and sitting in my small apartment and stewing about not having any workspace, I took a pair of aluminum sheers to one side of the drive cage--more out of frustration than anything else.
So.. yeah.. now it's obviously time to clean this piece up...
And we're back to Date with a Dremel, the sequel.
And my poor metal wheel grinder has just about had it.
She's going...
Going...
And then gone (see, you don't even see it. I think it went up in a cloud of dust around me.)
Good thing I'm restocked.
Now we've finished cutting that corner off the drive cage that'll be used for the corner support on one side.
And here I am fitting it on the frame, to illustrate.
Another thing these pieces do is hold part of the front case facing in place. You can see all the notches/clips that fit together.
So, it was important to save this piece. It would've been a pain to build it from scratch again.
Now the other side. This side had yet to be demolished by the aluminum shears.
And, we'll go ahead and prepare for the inevitable...
And, off she goes.
Here's a nice shot of the piece that we're keeping for the corner support.
And here are both corner supports fitted back onto the frame.
More to come in the next few days. :wave:
Sweet! I remember those damn cutting discs back when I modded xboxs, I hated them haha.
Looking good; I never thought of using an orbital sander for smoothing cut edges...hmm. For metalwork in a small apartment, I find that the bathtub works nicely...though if I had a girlfriend/wife/etc, that might be a different story. :P
Something you've probably noticed; you'll run through those 'heavy duty' cutting discs a lot faster than the fibreglass reinforced ones. They're more expensive, but for me, not having to change them as frequently and being able to get them for the quick-change attachment makes it worth it to use the fibreglass ones.
Yup; just make sure you get the right ones, since they make different thicknesses/compositions for cutting plastic, metal, and a couple other different varieties. Weirdly, they only do that for the quick-change discs, not the normal fibreglass discs.. I think the metal ones are a courser weave and thicker than the plastic ones. Another benefit of the quick-change discs is that you can actually get slightly more life out of them than the normal fibreglass discs. They're OD is slightly larger, though obviously their ID is also larger, but you can actually use it closer to the end of the disc. Plus, if you're cutting in awkward positions, the centre of the quick-change discs is a lot stronger (larger surface, metal sleeving), so it's a lot harder to snap the disc off the shaft. :facepalm:
So last we left off we had worked on that motherboard tray and the corner supports for the frame.
Here she sits under her new work light, a daylight flourescent with two bright bulbs. Waiting to be attended to.
But wait. Those corner supports aren't done quite yet.
Let me preface this next part with saying this. I imagine there are two camps out there. Those who think I'm a ridiculous perfectionist and those who probably appreciate my attention to detail. Well, the reason I'm so picky is because, when I began this build, I said to myself that no matter what lengths I had to go to, the finished product would look professional as if built by a case manufacturer. That was and still is a key objective of mine with refleXion, so this next piece you're about to see is a direct result of that drive.
Here's a close up of the corner support. Notice running along the bottom that there is a rough lip that's left over from the dremel cut:
This lip will not be seen easily as it will be behind the front of the frame. But for one who would look closely after the case is complete, they would see this:
See how the lip, being a rough cut, doesn't allow the corner support to sit flush with the frame of the Zero G Chamber? These two pieces will be bolted together, so I'd like as clean a join as possible.
So, time to break out the dremel again to grind these supports down. I'll be grinding off that lip that's keeping the pieces from sitting flush against one another.
Let's get the dremel ready.
And away we go.
Ok, stopping point. Look where my finger is resting. To the left we haven't touched yet. To the right, we've hit with the grinding wheel. See the difference?
But.. wow.. these things go about as fast as the cutting discs. After just grinding half the corner support, look at what's happened to our wheel.
Not good. Definitely need something stronger.
It was at that moment that I was reminded of my first job out of high school. To put it plainly, it sucked. I worked in a warehouse doing some pretty hard labor. The company I worked for built huge carpet carousels, and one of my tasks was to grind hundreds of galvanized piping day after day with a small handheld grinder to prep it for welding. And then I thought, you know, I didn't do that stuff with one of these hollowed out, cheaply made grinding/sanding wheels. What I used was a diamond-cut steel bit. So there has to be something better out there for this job. And hopefully Dremel makes it.
Time for a trip to Home Depot. And when I got there, I found just what I was looking for. A large multi-purpose grinding/sanding kit.
That's what I need. Grinding stones.
Let's give them a whirl. I'll try this one out first.
Ahhh yeah, now we're getting somewhere. This is looking good, but it's left some rough edges that need to be treated with the file.
You love me in my ninja work gloves.
Take a look at the two corner pieces now. Notice the difference.
And now, look how well this new corner piece joins to the frame as compared to before we hit it with the grinder.
Looking a lot better. :yepp:
More to come tomorrow.
LOL, PLEXI RUN AND HIDE! Hahahaha, and as for the attention to detail; I would fall into the latter category. Absolutely LOVE your attention to detail. Keep up the good work.
Of topic: I'll have to go pick me up one of those grinding kits. >_>
Love it. :D
Also, yeah, grinding stones are your friend. ;) TBH, I probably would have ended up doing a lot of that with a hand file though...I'm kinda a control freak with that stuff sometimes. :P
Thanks man.
Thanks, Couch. :)
Thanks, x88x. I started out with files, but it was taking waaaaaay too long.
Project Update --
Ok, these hands are ready to go back to work.
But.. wait. Forgot something important.
Entering Ninja Mode...
Ready for anything... ready even for a tool that'd be in my hands for the first time.
The Skilsaw. I found her on sale for 24.99$ at Home Depot. A real steal, I thought.
Okaayyy.. depth adjustment looks good.
This is actually the first time I'm using one of these. It's probably etched in my memory as the tool I remember seeing my father use the most as I was growing up (I'm in my early thirties if any of you were wondering.) So I was anxious to get the feel of it by cutting some 1/4" plexi.
Oh, sorry.. I almost forgot to explain why we're breaking out the Skilsaw in the first place.
Tonight, I'm doing some more work on the Zero-G Chamber. Notice the bottom shelf in this picture. It's buckling a little down the middle with the SSD shelf resting on it.
To remedy this, I planned to experiment with some thicker plexi just for that bottom shelf. Instead of 1/8" I would try 1/4". This stuff is too thick to cut/break with my bending brake, so I needed a way to cut it. And after doing some research, it seemed like a circular saw was the way to go.
For blades, I'm using 140 tooth 7 1/4" Avanti made for cutting plastics and plywood. You'll notice the teeth are shorter than what you often see on your standard sawblades.
Set-up complete. Shelf length and width marked with the sharpie. We'll be cutting along that black rectangle shown in the bottom right of the plexi sheet. And to ensure a straight cut, we'll use an aluminum angle for a straight edge.
Earplugs in, safety glasses on.
Pretty good results. The 140 tooth blades gave me a nice smooth cut. Any jagged edges you see is just the protective paper over the plexi. The cut surface is smooth to the touch. It'll need to be sanded and polished.. maybe dressed with some edge trim. We'll experiment with that later.
Here's how it looks in the frame.
The shelf no longer buckles. Yeah, my side panel's gotten some dust and dirt on it from sitting in the shop with all these tools. It's ok.. I'll clean it up with some windex and an air duster later.
Looking pretty good. Still more work to be done on the chamber. I'm still not happy with the edges of the perspex, but I'll save that for another day.
For now, I'll introduce you to my latest workshop investment.
After seeing all the magic that callen has been able to create with his routing table, I just couldn't resist. They had the Ryobi table and router down at the Depot for 99$, and I couldn't pass it up. It's just a small table, but for the work I'm doing it should suit me just fine. I spent much of tonight just assembling it, but I'll be giving it some play in the next few days. It will have some important work to do on the Zero-G Chamber.
That's all for now. Thanks again for following the making of refleXion.
Nice. Gotta love new tools.
I actually got my circular saw for free out of a dumpster. Some contractor had cut the cord and decided to just toss it. 30 seconds of soldering later, and I had a fully functional circular saw. :D
(Crysis reference)
It was time to play with the new routing table. Here I'm running just a spare piece of plexi through it to test. I'm routing through with my trusty Bosch upspiral straight bit. It's the same one that I used in my RotoZip.
You can't beat the smooth, clean finish this bit leaves behind. Just look how smooth it carves out the plexi (the cut on the top right.)
I bought a standard straight bit by SKIL, but it doesn't even compare to this upspiral. It wasn't carving clean.. it was causing the plexi to foam and melt around the edges. So I took it out and threw in the Bosch upspiral, and all is well again. :up:
So what are we doing tonight.. well, we're doing a little rework. I know, I know.. no one likes to do things over, especially me. But as goes this project, so goes a good part of my time, money and.. well, life, basically. I've invested a lot into this work, so if an opportunity presents itself to make a part of it better, then I will.
In the last update, I showed how the bottom shelf in the Zero Gravity Chamber was buckling a little due to the weight of the SSD shelf. We were able to remedy that by making that bottom shelf out of 1/4" plexi instead of the 1/8" that was used originally. In addition, the original mount for the SSD shelf was very simplistic and rather ineffective. It was a straight join with weld-on, and while it will hold okay, there are more effective ways to bond two shelves together.
So tonight, we're going to explore a better way of joining the Zero-G shelves together by cutting and routing some 1/4" plexi to replace the 1/8" plexi that's currently in the chamber.
Here I am marking the SSD shelf location.
Where you see the shelf rest, we'll be routing a groove out in that bottom shelf for it to fit snug in. Here, I'll show.
Lined up on the routing table.
I've set my depth at 1/8". Remember that we're not carving through the shelf but just routing a groove out for our SSD shelf to fit snug in.
The depth of the rip fence on this table is too shallow, so I had to remove it and replace it with an aluminum angle positioned far enough back to route a little more than 3 inches into the shelf.
Here's the end product. A nice, clean straight groove cut into our shelf.
That turned out really well and was a lot easier than setting up a straight edge and cutting with the RotoZip. Having a bench just allows you better leverage, along with square cuts.
So, now it was time to cut a new SSD shelf in 1/4" plexi to replace the 1/8" piece. Time to crank up the new toy.
My new Ryobi table saw with 30 in. adjustable width to the right of the blade.
I moved it into the back corner of my shop next to the routing table.
It was fun using a handsaw to cut this stuff until it became difficult to make square cuts even with a straight edge. The Skilsaw kept getting hung in the plexi which would cause it to drift a little.
I admire anyone who has both the patience and skill to use hand tools for everything, but my philosophy is if there's a better, quicker, more precise way to do something, then that's the way I'm going. And this table saw will save me a lot of headaches and a lot of time. I'm doing a lot of work with plexi in this build and will in future builds as well.
The thing I noticed immediately with the table saw was how simple it was to square off a piece of material. Two of the four sides of my plexi sheet were not square because of the Skilsaw drifting, and I was able to correct that in a matter of minutes.
Ok, the first test... how well can it cut through not just plexi but tougher material, like solid state drives...
Anyone want to take a guess?
:)
I'd have to be out of my freaking mind and then some, obviously.
No, what I'm doing here is measuring off that SSD shelf, because I'm going to cut the new shelf to the same exact size.
Lining up the cut with the miter fence.
We'll be cutting right along that line for our shelf width.
And away we go.
WWWEEEEAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRR....
Notice that I'm feeding the blade while standing to the right and out of the kickback path. I've heard this is the smart thing to do...
And after what seems like far too easy a job, we're through. Here you can see the nice, clean cut it gives us. I'm using 180 tooth 10" Irwin blades made for plastic and plywood.
Ok, retrieving our shelf that we had routed the groove in before...
And we'll slide the new SSD shelf down in that groove..
Voila.
We'll secure the two pieces with weld-on. This should give us a cleaner and more secure bond than just bonding two flat pieces together.. especially with the more sturdy 1/4" plexi. :yepp:
And, using our old SSD shelf as a template, we'll mark the drillholes for the new shelf...
And those will be drilled shortly.
Thanks for reading; that's it for tonight. Time for me to clean up some of this plexi dust before I get caught in a blizzard.
Heheh, congrats on the new tools. It always makes things easier when you have the right tools for the job. :D
Man... every time i see an update on this thread i feel like a kid in a candy store watching a Disney movie...
Shiny. ....dang it, now you have me obsessing over what the hidden meaning is... :P
Tinted window? or that one way mirrored film applique?
Curious. Very Curious.
Edit: I looked again and noticed in the bottom pic the tubing is being reflected, quite clearly. Do I win?
Edit, Edit: I do not win, the first post of his clearly states he is using a mirrored acrylic, so the mirroring is not new :(
maybe something to do with the tubing? maybe he got hosed on something :D lol
I have $5 that says the computer comes to life at night and cleans the house!
the side of his case resembles a whirlpool or a galaxy. If it's a whirlpool, that's indicative of 2 things. 1 - washing machines. 2- drains. this is clearly NOT a washing machine (...or IS it....). So that leaves #2, drains. I think it symbolizes the amount of money that's gone down the drain on this project. Yep. :D
Unless the side of the case is a galaxy, in which case I'd say that it, along with the clearly visible "zero g" drive bays, provides a space theme, and the tube is (obviously) a wormhole reference. So really, the hidden meaning is Stargate. Yep. That's my theory and I'm sticking to it, no matter how ludicrous. heheheeheee :)
ok ok...I *did* notice that the coiled tube does seem to resemble a bit the design on the side of the case. But I doubt that's what he's talking about.
Coming along steadily :up:.
Like the routing table :), a tool I would like to get at some point, quite a lot of nice progress since I last checked in, new all black slot motherboard too :) nickel plated motherboard block too, going to be one heck of a sweet rig this bud :), keep it up :up:.
You & many others have inspired me to take note of the quality of pictures & have got around to getting an ok camera :), it's not a dslr but it's got full manual controls and picture quality is far better than my last, even going to make a soft light box for future projects, but going to be concentrating on airbrushing for the meantime, finishing has always been my weak point so is my number 1 modding priority now :).
Ok, guys. The 'hidden meaning' had to do with the side panel, so here's the deal with it. :)
I believe the time has arrived to reveal the secret behind the side panel of refleXion.
When at first, it appeared as acrylic. Then, I revealed that it was actually a mirrored acrylic piece. Now, here is the next revelation:
The side panel window, instead of being a mirror, is actually two-way mirror perspex. It's the same stuff that's used in security cameras. When lit from behind, it becomes transparent so that you can see through it.
Notice in the above photo that at the left corner where the softbox is sitting behind it, it is perfectly transparent. Then, as you move to the right and out of the path of light, it becomes a mirror again.
:)
So I've been getting in a lot of practice with the router table. This is quickly becoming my favorite tool (I know, I say that with every purchase, but it's true!)
What I'm attempting now is to recess cut the Zero-G shelves that the pumps rest on. The reason I'm doing this is because, after going with 1/4" plexi in place of 1/8", the pumps now sit 1/8" higher and do not line up properly in the windows. You'll see what I mean shortly.
First step was to draw an outline of the pump base on a test plexi shelf that was cut to scale at 1/4" thickness. Then, I'll recess cut it with the router 1/8" which was the thickness of the perspex in the original design of the Zero-G Chamber.
The place you'll want to pay attention to is on the left (there are a few cuts on this piece. Like I said, it was used for testing, so please ignore them.) It's outlined with the sharpie. I'm using a standard board as a straight edge on the right so that I can cut a straight line downward on that left side.
This is how it looks all cleared out. There are some rough grooves in there, but those will come out once we start sanding it down.
I'll hit it with my power sander first and use the mouse/detail end attachment.
This is how it looked afterward.
Now we go through the torturous process of sanding this down back to opaque (I really need a torch..)
But first, this is how it will look. You can see that the base of the pump now rests in that 1/8" recess cut.
Now to the sanding...
My fingers feel like they're about to fall off at this point. 2000 grit below (forgot to include it on the photo)--
Still not perfectly opaque, so we'll have to keep working with it. I'll pick up a torch and some Brasso or another abrasive tomorrow as the sanding is taking forever.
For now, this is how it will look mounted in the Zero-G Chamber. The recess cut as shown through the pump window--
And now with the pump seated in it.
The bottom pump resting on top of the 1/4" shelf. This will need to be recessed as well. You can see the top of the pump base is showing through the window a little, and I only want the res top showing--
Now onto another piece.
I've been experimenting with my unibits and this plexi. I'm really happy at the clean circular cuts they make. I plan to use pass-thrus on the middle plexi shelf. Why? Difficult to explain at this point, but to put it short, the tubing, when routing back into the chamber, has to make its way back over to the pumps which are on the other side of that plexiglass shelf.
I've probably confused you, but it'll become clear shortly.
That's all for now. Thanks for checking in. :up:
WOW this is awesome !!!
wow. amazing work, as I'm coming to expect from you. I like the 2-way perspex, I didn't pick up on that at all in the older photos, but when you point it out it's more evident. I'm harboring something of a hope to be able to see this in person someday :)
incidentally, is that the pump w/reservoir on top that danger den is selling now? About how big is it? I might be doing something similar for my own build and I'm trying to figure out what will physically fit in there.
Very nice work. I love what you've been doing with the router table. :D One tip you might want to try for the second piece, if you're jumping straight from 150 to 600 grit, that might be the source of some of the scratches. If you use 300 or 400 or so inbetween, it shouldn't leave any scratches that higher grit cannot get at.
HOLY CARP!!! This just keeps getting cooler and cooler. Loving it. It's easy to love a router table because you can do so much with them. You attention to detail is top notch for sure. :up:
I agree 100%. You should use every grit in progression because it keeps the scratches more consistent. So then the finer grits don't take as much to get a smooth finish.
Very nice, the router table looks the way to go for working with plexi, sweet work Xion :up:.
Is it possible to use a router with a specific bit for aluminium?.