I thought so too. I only wish I had done that to the drive cage.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
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I thought so too. I only wish I had done that to the drive cage.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
What's stopping you? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Tale Gunner
The drive cage is not removeable. It has been locked in by trim and with all the holes and such it might spell disaster when I paint it even if I taped it off. So much work has gone into this and paint could mess up the wood before I stain it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrumThumper
Its time again to make some blanks for the trim. This time its easier, being that all I need is 3/4 square blanks to be routed with the cove bit. just take a board any board much like this one.
Cut some lengths to which you need for the trim.
Plane them to size (in this case 3/4")
Square them up with a jointer or saw depending on if you can get a good true cut.
And then cut them to the desired width (again 3/4")
Note that some of these appear to be less then straight. That is correct. Wood, after cutting, can deflect. That's because the grain at which you just cut may have had tension on keeping itself together, Cutting them allow the board to "bend". That's why I cut so many. I want to insure that the trim is true when its routed and them cut for final installation.
Holy s@#$,... That is just cool! How you took that whole damn board and just cut it down like that! I need to do that with aluminum and acrylic. You think I would be able to cut 1/4" wide strips of both materials with a table saw? I'm worried about shattering the acrylic but then again I think it would be fine. What I REALLY want to do is cut 1/8" strips of acrylic. That would be hot! I cant wait to try that out.
Fair enough. Chalk it up to experience then!Quote:
Originally Posted by Tale Gunner
Yes you can do it with acrylic. Just make sure you have a 60 tooth blade or 40 that is very sharp. Anything more or less will just chip the heck out of it or melt it. I have some and will take some pics when I do it. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by tribaloverkill
But I agree with you that it would be fantastic to do it. I'm not against trying just want to protect the project. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrumThumper
I have an 80t that works well. I should try a 60t to see how well thats works. I think 40t would be a bit harsh for acrylic. Thanks TG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tale Gunner
If the 80T is sharp and is not melting the acrylic then it would be the one I would go with. Think kerf is also desired so that it does not take too much at once. I have a fat 1/8" kerf for my wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by tribaloverkill
The 80t cuts nicely,.. but I cant see the shavings kind of like clinging together. So its like borderline. But then again,... I am cutting up the 2.5" tubes so thre really isnt anywhere for the shaving to go. They get caught up inside. I am going to have to try a 60t. I bet it would work sweet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tale Gunner
If the 80T is sharp and is not melting the acrylic then it would be the one I would go with. Think kerf is also desired so that it does not take too much at once. I have a fat 1/8" kerf for my wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by tribaloverkill
I have been looking into some more work for myself and this machine. Heres what I already have in place.
Nice tight Lines on the front of this machine.
So I thought maybe I could take out the Hardcano and do something like this.
And put it in the top space.
Whats everyone think? get back to me...
You know what I think would look best in that 3.5" double bay? Analog gauges like DaveW used in TIP-3000.
[IMG][/IMG]
You could find a double, use one for water temp and the other for a flow meter assuming you can get one of our nice programmer members to put together a PIC for you. That would be awesome! Do you intend to change the front of the CD-ROM drives? If you have the patience I'll be you could craft faces out of wood.
Hummm sounds intresting. I will look.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
I took a scrap piece of wood to create a panel to go in front. I will attempt to drill a square hole in it to place the temperature monitor in it. (using a mortise kit on my drill press)
I just remembered the only problem with this is that I was putting a memory card reader in one of those 3.5" slots.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
What would you think of moving the drives up one slot and making the bottom 5.25" bay into a pull-out drawer with all of the input & card reader slots in it? You could use that piece of wood and fit it with guide rails.
Not a bad idea. The problem I see is the top space is larger then the other two 5.25 drives. That was one of the reasons I began to look at different ways to change out the Hardcano 10. I wanted to use more of the space and customize it for better looks. I havent thrown your idea out just looking how to make it work if possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
Tale Gunner,
You are truly talented. Your design is sound and the craftsmanship is superb. My Father was a cabinet maker for 50+ years, and I followed in his footsteps... I've been doing custom cabinets since I was 16... I'm now 50+. I know talent when I see it...
You've got good tools and know how to use them. You are correct... with a table saw and router table... you can build most anything!
You are getting close to completing your project... remember! it will only be as beautiful as it's finish. Clue us in on your plans... what type of finish are you going to use?
If it was me... I'd use Lin seed oil tinted with a fruit-wood stain and paste wax... or amber varnish. Please clue us in on your plans!
Lee Haag
I have a dark stain that I was looking to match another cabinet in my office. I plan to use the grain filler to add to the luster of the stain. Thank you for those compliments. I cant tell you how much I appreciate them.Quote:
Originally Posted by hagatha
Here is a better picture of the wood panel aligned correctly.
And after setting up the mortice attachment on the drill press I had this to look at.
Looks great :D
I just dont like the Thermaltake temperature sensor. Those sensors look cheap and i'm scared it will detract from the beauty of the case :(
Hmmm do you have any others that you do like? Drop me a line and let me look at what you think is possible here. If it fits my build I can take it into consideration. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by DAE_JA_VOO
a brushed aluminium cover would look : 8)
great stuff TG
Thanks ..Quote:
Originally Posted by FrooP
Hey TG:
In looking at the pics and thinking about your temp monitor delima.
It dawned on me that in order to keep an eye on the guages the door would have to be open all the time. Why not put the guages in the door front?
Or in the base front.
Just a thought.
Charles
Hey I'll give that a try. Thanks wannabeamodderQuote:
Originally Posted by Wannabeamodder
That style of temp monitor are only as accurate as the location of the sensor... Your best bet to monitor temps of the CPU, GPU, NB or system... would be software based. There are several free programs out there that take the readings from the BIOS or from the chip directly. I have a Logitech G15 keyboard that displays alot of information temps, mem usage... etc... right on the built in LCD.
I'd fill the bay with either a fan controller or a 3.5 floppy disk. DON"T Laugh... most BIOS updates still require a floppy disk!
Are those the optical drives your going to use? SATA or IDE?
You given any thought to wire routing/management? Custom cables? I've done a lot of both... If you need help, let me know. What are you putting inside this case? Component list?
Lee
Thanks. I appreciate the offer and my take you up on it but I have been building computers since 1980. I have seen the logitech keyboard and its great, but this is getting away from my original build and I really don't want to do that. Yes there are some MB's that still require the floppy disk for updating the bios but not mine. I have a crash free bios that if there is a problem it allows me to restore the bios using a flash disk with bios file on it. I do have the option to use a floppy disk but with a flash disk its very easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by hagatha
No the drives I used are for measurements only. The two I will be using are presently in another case (this one to be exact) and will be transfered over to the new case after the construction is complete.
My componet list:
Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe Wireless Edition
AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ Windsor 3.0GHz Socket AM2 Processor Model ADX6000CZBOX - Retail
(2) PNY VCG8800XXPB GeForce 8800GTX 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP
(2) CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
(2) Seagate Barracuda 500GB/250GB 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive
(2) LITE-ON Black 20X IDE Burner with LightScribe Technology
Wire management will occur during the build. Since I work for a medical company and I am an engineer it should not be a problem with the cable management. I am looking into a different LCD screen to display the information and I have software to drive it. I just need to select the LCD to build into my unit. Thanks again for the offer.
I have been looking into some of the possibilities for different look on the front of my computer case. I'm not sold that I would like this mod but everyone keeps sending me recommendations. This will cause me major grief here to attempt this and could possibly damage the case. But since its just time and effort here with no damage I drew up a cad file to see what it would take.
This panel would stick out 3/4" over the existing trim. I could not put it inside the trim because of the space between the CD Roms and the trim. Its just too small and the Cherry would be too thin and possibly break when cutting it. If I lowered it down to cover the trim across the 3.5" bay then the trim would show 1/4" below the panel and would not look correct. Covering it all would eliminate all the trim I already spent time creating plus it would really create a huge problem with the switches. I wanted the switches to be difficult to get to (to avoid accidental resets and such) but this would be crazy. The panel would stick out 1.25" and if I added trim round the new panel it would be out 1 3/4". That's a little too much.
In covering the 3.5" bays it would be murder to attempt to create all the different cuts for a memory card reader in that area that I would have to abandon the idea to put one in there. The slots are too close and the wood most likely break during that modification. Removing the trim is out of the question. I am not going through that again. From the card cage to the front of the drives its 13/16". So removing the trim would be out of the question. I would need that space to keep the CD Rom from poking through.
Can you snap a photo of a direct frontal view of the case, for better visualization?
Here it is from earlier posts.
Doh! I knew that.
Here is a picture from the side. As you can see the CD-Roms will extend out beyond the trim.
In thinking about your solution I remembered that the monitor has a temperature alarm. This would sound off first then I would look to the display for the temperature reading. If I set the alarm low enough I would have plenty of time to react to any issue with temperature. So its not something I would want or need to see all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wannabeamodder
I still think you should consider gauges, like this maybe...and you could fit this in with slimline drives
Looking at your picture gave me some inspiration. I took the old burner with the black bezel and removed the front plate. Now I have a simple tray that can be slotted out the front of a piece of cherry. I love the analog meters but they would not work where you have them. There are only 3 drive bays and the slides would not allow for 2 slim lines. But not to worry I could possibly move the temperature alarm to the pump housing front (visible at all times wannabeamodder) then put the two meters in the top bay. But what would they display?Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsnI still think you should consider gauges, like this maybe...and you could fit this in with slimline drives
That's why I mentioned slimline drives, or laptop disc drives which would fit two in one bay (roughly). I would ask around and find someone who can program a PIC or something to rig a flow meter and water temp to those gauges. I'll ask Dave what he thinks about it, he is the PIC guy and would know how possible it would be.
Now its me doh! Read the post dummy (talking to myself)!Quote:
Originally Posted by jdbnsn
