Cherry wood Case with water cooling

Well I just finished making an new front panel for the computer case. The board is in the clamps and drying. I will attempt to make openings on the front panel and allow the trays to come through. I will also have to make a new button to open the tray on the front panel. I will fasten it with screws and p[ut new trim on the front panel to cover the holes. The screws will be acessable from the rear so I do not have to pry the trim off to replace/upgrade the case. Stay tuned. Thanks jdbnsn for the tip. Hope you find something out from DaveW about those meters.

With the help of jdbnsn I developed a idea that I think might be intresting. what do you think? (thanks jdbnsn)

Not too shabby!

loooks cool except the cardreader.. to many technical holes.. lol maybe a woodcover or aluminium

It seems to me that the facade is lacking some contrast, it's needs something to set it apart from the surrounding wood. Perhaps some black grill/mesh around the components?

I took a scrap board that was too small in either direction to work but if I ran it through the router for the locking joint, cut it in half, glued it together and planed it down it would give me a new board that I could use.

Glued

Now I have to cut it to size and then the hard part. I will have to route out the back of the board to give me space to put the DVD into then cut the door open with a precision alignment.

I think it would look better if you put a small piece of wood over the black plastic.

EDIT: Just saw jdbnsn idea. That's not bad either.

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Originally Posted by jdbnsn

It seems to me that the facade is lacking some contrast, it's needs something to set it apart from the surrounding wood. Perhaps some black grill/mesh around the components?

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Maybe hmm. I will see after the new trim is in place on the panel.

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Originally Posted by Spacehonkey

I think it would look better if you put a small piece of wood over the black plastic.

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It would have to be thin. I dont know if I can plane anything down that thin. It would have to be cut using a forest blade on my table saw. That would be the only way. I can try it to see what happens but getting my hands that close to the blade upsets my stomach. LOL but I have done that before so ...

Hey what are you guys Photoshop guru's ?????

You can remove the plastic on the edge of DVD drives and replace it with wood so it wouldn't need to be so thin. But I'm not sure having everything wood plated has a great look. It takes even more contrast away from your facade. And no, I'm a photoshop novice, still learning.

Before I can actually post work on this thing I have guys producing images from photoshop. Now cut that out.. LOL you guys are making it look like all these images are fake!

:pics:

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Originally Posted by jdbnsn

You can remove the plastic on the edge of DVD drives and replace it with wood so it wouldn't need to be so thin. But I'm not sure having everything wood plated has a great look. It takes even more contrast away from your facade. And no, I'm a photoshop novice, still learning.

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I actually like the back with the wood contrast. it looks good to me but Im open to suggestions.

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Originally Posted by jdbnsn

But I'm not sure having everything wood plated has a great look. It takes even more contrast away from your facade.

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I agree I like your idea better :up:. Plus I think it would be a lot easier to pull off.

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Originally Posted by Spacehonkey

I agree I like your idea better :up:. Plus I think it would be a lot easier to pull off.

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Ok so thats what I'll go for. Wish me luck.

(this will separte the men from the boys) This one board will have to be routed out 4 times. Twice for the DVD (on the back of the board to get the DVD close to the front without going thru or cracking it) and twice for the beveled edge for the tray dressing. The hole will have to be precise which means that the board will have to be measured from only 2 sides to prevent a miss of a fraction of a inch. The cut out for the on/reset switch will have to be done on the band saw with a accurate fence (I have a kreg fence on my band saw so that should work). I planed the board down to 21/32" to give me a flat surface and still allow for the routing. I will have to create a button for each to drive the tray. 5 screws from the inside of the case will hold the board on. I will again use the inserts for anchors for the screws (machine type). New trim will have to be created and then used to hide the holes for the inserts. More work will go into this one board then almost all the others.

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Originally Posted by Tale Gunner

Hmmm do you have any others that you do like? Drop me a line and let me look at what you think is possible here. If it fits my build I can take it into consideration. Thanks

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Sorry for my late reply ;)

No i can't think of any now that will suite your mod, but i really feel that this one doesn't :(

But hey, it's YOUR mod dude, if you like the temp sensor, use it! :D

OOooo...JD I like those analog gauges. Great Idea. In my opinion, the hex mesh (or any metal mesh for that matter) is going to take from the warmth and softness you get with wood--think RADIATOR COVER. Blech.

i still think some tasteful use of marquetry would look very nice ;)

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Originally Posted by Tale Gunner

It would have to be thin. I dont know if I can plane anything down that thin. It would have to be cut using a forest blade on my table saw. That would be the only way. I can try it to see what happens but getting my hands that close to the blade upsets my stomach. LOL but I have done that before so ...

Hey what are you guys Photoshop guru's ?????

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Gunner you can always make a thin sheet of cherry on the table saw by making a double pass (but you know that). Raising the blade up full should get you what...3.7"?..double pass flip over would allow you to cut a 1x8 easily into a thin slice. Then you could send it through your thickness sander and then use contact cement to mount that homemade laminate onto a thin sheet of aluminum. That would make for some very clean cut-outs, say using a scroll saw, or hell, even a utility knife for the wood and scroll saw to remove the alum. I would then take the bezels from an alum case, snip off the sides and attach that to my laminated bezel panel. Easy mounting to the case!

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Originally Posted by Tale Gunner

I actually like the back with the wood contrast. it looks good to me but Im open to suggestions.

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You can always stain the wood dvd covers black ;)

Get creative with your bezels--think outside the box for material and parts that are easy to get. Using an aluminum door saddle for Jujube allowed me to make really fine cutouts for my front panel devices using a jigsaw, holesaw and rifler files. For the USB and mic/phone jack, I simply made a paper and pencil rubbing of the device and used that as a template. Doesnt get closer than that!

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/m...ube_bezel2.jpg

http://www.thebestcasescenario.com/m...jube_bezel.jpg

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Originally Posted by DAE_JA_VOO

Sorry for my late reply ;)

No i can't think of any now that will suite your mod, but i really feel that this one doesn't :(

But hey, it's YOUR mod dude, if you like the temp sensor, use it! :D

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But I don't always think like everyone else. Sometimes if your too close to the project it may cloud your vision! Thanks ...

[QUOTE=Crimson Sky;116173]OOooo...JD I like those analog gauges. Great Idea. In my opinion, the hex mesh (or any metal mesh for that matter) is going to take from the warmth and softness you get with wood--think RADIATOR COVER. Blech.

i still think some tasteful use of marquetry would look very nice ;)

Man that is some really nice work. I have done some of that in the past but I have to revisit my books to make sure I remember all the different tricks and traps.:up:

I got an idea from reading other people suggestions. Since you were unable to paint the drive cages black. Why not make like a wooden box or something to cover them up on the inside? Especially since you don't need to attach anything with screws because of the slide and clip setup you have going.

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Originally Posted by lorddarkwolf

I got an idea from reading other people suggestions. Since you were unable to paint the drive cages black. Why not make like a wooden box or something to cover them up on the inside? Especially since you don't need to attach anything with screws because of the slide and clip setup you have going.

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Neat idea but the sides provide air flow to prevent damage to the drives. Don't think I would get enough air flow to prevent the overheating of the drives unless I rig a fan to extract or blow air into the cage. Thank you

I have started to cut out the new panel. I used my trusty ole table saw but had the need to break out the band saw. With the Kreg fence it was quite accurate to cut the inside corners.

Hey Tale Gunner. Your mod looks awesome! I have always admired a good wood worker. A good friend of mine had been teaching me some techniques and I think if you're still looking for a way to make a cover for the DVD drive plate you could try this. Take a piece of Cherry MDF and put your guide on the table saw about 1/8" to 1/4" away and use the piece of cherry that holds the MDF together. I hope you can follow that. I havent done anything like that in a while. But we needed a really thin piece to pick up the slack and (I can't remember what you call the iron-on piece that is used to give MDF a finished edge) and it worked really well.
-Big Johnson

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Originally Posted by BigJohnson

Hey Tale Gunner. Your mod looks awesome! I have always admired a good wood worker. A good friend of mine had been teaching me some techniques and I think if you're still looking for a way to make a cover for the DVD drive plate you could try this. Take a piece of Cherry MDF and put your guide on the table saw about 1/8" to 1/4" away and use the piece of cherry that holds the MDF together. I hope you can follow that. I havent done anything like that in a while. But we needed a really thin piece to pick up the slack and (I can't remember what you call the iron-on piece that is used to give MDF a finished edge) and it worked really well.
-Big Johnson

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Thats a great tip! For something like that, I would head down to my local Woodcraft and buy some cherry veneer specifically for the purpose. However, in a pinch, thats a good suggestion.

In woodworkers words:
Take a piece of cherry veneered MDF and set the bandsaw fence to the depth of the veneered substrate, usually between 1/32" and 3/32". Resaw the board so only the veneered portion is removed, and voila, you have your own veneer.

I have gotten to the point where the rear of the panel has been routed out. Looks good and it wont be seen from that side but it still looks good.

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Originally Posted by BigJohnson

Hey Tale Gunner. Your mod looks awesome! I have always admired a good wood worker. A good friend of mine had been teaching me some techniques and I think if you're still looking for a way to make a cover for the DVD drive plate you could try this. Take a piece of Cherry MDF and put your guide on the table saw about 1/8" to 1/4" away and use the piece of cherry that holds the MDF together. I hope you can follow that. I havent done anything like that in a while. But we needed a really thin piece to pick up the slack and (I can't remember what you call the iron-on piece that is used to give MDF a finished edge) and it worked really well.
-Big Johnson

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There is edgeing that covers the end but I haven't seen it in cherry. I have seen oak and maple. Good idea though. I have cut a piece of cherry 1/16" without breaking it. I will see if I can do something with this. Thank you very much.:up:

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Originally Posted by tybrenis

Thats a great tip! For something like that, I would head down to my local Woodcraft and buy some cherry veneer specifically for the purpose. However, in a pinch, thats a good suggestion.

In woodworkers words:
Take a piece of cherry veneered MDF and set the bandsaw fence to the depth of the veneered substrate, usually between 1/32" and 3/32". Resaw the board so only the veneered portion is removed, and voila, you have your own veneer.

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Good words to work by! thank you very much.

TThe next step was to adjust the table to cut the lower line of the opening. Then take the panel and place it face up on the table. Using the router lift allow the bit to cut through the wood.

Slowly moving the wood from side to side cut the 1/2 of the slot.

Next readjust the fence of the router and lower the bit so that it is just under the wood but not touching.

Raise the bit up through the wood again and this time cut the upper line for the slot.

Sand the slot and clean the edges with a razor knife. (I'm not done but I wanted to show how I was progressing)

Then I tested it for fit.

I set up for the last cut this evening. Its starting to loose daylight and I don't like to work without proper lighting. I captured the bit just coming through the wood this time.

Again the fit with the DVD drive moved to the upper slot.

Rotflmao. I just checked my email and saw a DeWalt response to me. Opening it I found I won the survey and got a DeWalt radio charger! Too funny!

Congrats on the radio, lol!

Thats really looking great, your router table is making me envious - I wish my router table had a lift.

Tale Gunner,

Invest in set of mortising bits for your drill press. Super easy and super clean corners. Stealth the optical drives with the veneer... The look you'll have when finished will be what you want...

Lee

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Originally Posted by hagatha

Tale Gunner,

Invest in set of mortising bits for your drill press. Super easy and super clean corners. Stealth the optical drives with the veneer... The look you'll have when finished will be what you want...

Lee

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This man speaks wise words. +rep

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Originally Posted by hagatha

Tale Gunner,

Invest in set of mortising bits for your drill press. Super easy and super clean corners. Stealth the optical drives with the veneer... The look you'll have when finished will be what you want...

Lee

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I have them. Look at the post earlier. Hummm "off to drill a square hole" (page 23). It all comes down to preference. I happen to like the router table because of the depth I can get especially since it was 6 15/16". Thats a little hard to do on a mortise machine or attachment to a drill press. Thanks...8)

just a quick question, where do you put the butttons for the cd drives? you can solder a wire on them so you can put em anywhere you want :)

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Originally Posted by FrooP

just a quick question, where do you put the butttons for the cd drives? you can solder a wire on them so you can put em anywhere you want :)

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You can or you can create a actuator to work with the panel and phush the button on the circuit board.

Your correct... it is a matter of preference. I missed the "square hole post". Your router table is of the same quality as my mortising machine... You gona stealth the optical drives?

Lee

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Originally Posted by hagatha

Your correct... it is a matter of preference. I missed the "square hole post". Your router table is of the same quality as my mortising machine... You gona stealth the optical drives?

Lee

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Not sure yet. I am working on getting the trim and finishes to the panel. I will make a cover for each of these rather I use them or not. I will be creating a bevel on each of the openings to feather out the finish. The covers will have the same feather. Thank you