TRIBALOVERKILL, "Blackout"

OMG. The last 22.5 hours in the studio sucked! At first I couldnt think to save my life! It wasn't like I was even tired. I dont know. Then,... when I could think I kept F'ing up!!! I mean it was kind of my fault but not?!?! I'll explian,... So yeah. This is a record, 22.5 hours in the studio. I slept like 4 or 5 hours in there but still!

Aug-11-2007

Bus bars. 12v, 5v, and ground. I dont need a 3v right? I dont think so but,... whatever. I hope not,... I'm not making this friggin thing again! Argh.

I want them layed out like this.

Ok,... right now your looking at my second attempt at making this part. The first one, the 1/4" holes were to close to each other. I spaced them apart by 1/16". I was not ok with that so I chucked it. This one will have 1/8" spacing. So,... this is number 2.

This is number 2. Very nice. I countersunk the holes. Countersinking is so nice.

Bus bars on 1/4" spacers.

Giving this part a frosted look to it. This is still attempt number 2.

This is 120grit we're looking at.

Bending attempt #2. This is the first bend.

Now,... this is attempt number 3. I messed up attempt #2 while bending. I'll explain, hold your horses. Same holes.

Same frosted appearance.

Ok,... this is attempt #3 after the first set of bends. I messed up attempt #2 with the next set of bends. Bending acrylic is very tricky and patience is needed. ESPECIALLY clear acrylic.

So,... this is the proper way to make the next bend. You see the wood with the tapered end inside the acrylic piece? For the second attempt I used the angle iron instead. I had the other board right where it is now. The problem was that I couldnt heat the VERY bend with the angle iron there. It was covering the acrylic at the bend. It was heating up. The wood has that tapered edge so I can heat the backside of the bend. THIS IS IMPORTANT!

The taper allows the heat from the heat gun to get to the bend. The acrylic at the bend will be nice an soft when heated making a perfect bend. Heat this clear arcylic up slowly. Keep the heat gun far from the clear arcylic too. This stuff burns quick!!!

There,.... you see that bend? How nice and shapely it is? Thats how you do it!

This is not how you do it! LOL. You see what I ended up with for my second attempt? OMG I was pissed. You see all the bubbles too? I forgot how quick this clear stuff heats up and burns. The colored acrylic is so much better! It doesnt heat up as fast and deosnt bubles as easily. I hate this clear acrylic. You see the other side of the messed up one? I did that side the right way. I practiced on that messed up piece. Anyways,... this is attempt #3.

Bus bars on attempt #3.

Just like this. Oh yea.

Taking apart the PSU enclosure. Look how nice these sides are. It's like a unit or something. so cool.

Drilled some mounting holes in the PSU acrylic. Tapered holes.

Very nice. Clean.

Tapered screws.

Flush.

Stealthed.

Almost done! Just have to drill the holes in the clear acrylic piece,...

DOH! DOH! DOH! DOH! DOH! *KICKING AND SCREAMING* Literally,... thank god it's a weekend. I'm pretty sure someone would of called the cops on me:\ Attempt #3,... in the toilet.

Went out and bought another uni-bit because they are so fabulous! You see,... I was being so damn careful as to not have that happen. I cant believe it did, geez. I was using a small bit when it happened too! The clear acrlic is trick y to work with. It heats up and melts easily. This is what is happening. The drill bit wants to gouge and the acrylic doesnt like to be gouged. You have to scrap it to cut it. The uni-bits do just that. You know what? I think I missed an attempt? I remember breaking another hole before this hole. I slemmed it against the ground. Thats right! There are 4 attempts so far and now i'm on my fifth attempt. Hopefully with this uni-bit there wont be any other problems.

Ok,... the fifth attempt was a success. Here it is in all it's glory,...

Eye candy.

I have to figure out how to secure these hoses so they cant be pushed in or pulled out. Any suggestions? I was think about using cotter pins, maybe C or E clips?

Damn that looks crazy cool!

My connection to the internet has been screwy lately but i'm trying to get you updates asap.

Wallpaper(1600x1200):
Aug-11-2007_36-1600.jpg

I'm a PSU noob so bear with me. I'm not exactly clear on what the bus bars are for, what do they do?

that looks pretty good...after 3 tries :D
the way im thinkin you could hold them in place...you would have to push them all the way in to where they are against that clear acrylic and then use the c ring or even o rings to hold them in against the back of the green acrylic

I think cotter pins and c clamps will only stop them from coming out. For a more stable hold, I would cut a sheet of aluminum to fit underneath and drill holes to match the ones you have there. Then make a bunch of small L braces to rivet on two sides of each hose. It sounds tedious, but you seem like a patient guy.

Maybe another piece of metal on the inside with holes drilled in it run all the tubes through then shift the plate.

Damn you guyz are good! jdbnsn I think is the closest. I dont know about the rivets though. I cant get the gun in such a small place.

You can rivet the L braces to the hoses first, then tap the holes in the aluminum plate and screw the other end of the L brace to the plate. ;)

what about using a barbed fitting from the inside to tighten the tubing against the sides. That would bind it in.

You disappoint me Tribal. 22.5 Hours in the workshop and NO photos of Spongebob being abused?




As for the mod looking good.