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My parts came in wensday, ive been building non-stop since then when im not eating sleeping or working.
before we start heres the bottom of my old dd waterblock
the box opening
parts from within the box
my motherboard before
heres my new D-Tech fuzion v2
heres the nb/sb Bitspower blocks
hers the motherboard after
and heres where im at now
and thats how it sits right now, over the next lil bit i will finish wireing it up then i will have the final photos.
Will
those blocks sure do look nice...
i would cut a hole in your case for that tubing off that rad, thats a seiously tight bend that looks kinked bad hurting flow.
same with the other tube from the res to the double rad.
short vid, final pics will be up sometime today,
EDIT: *sigh not too long after this video was uploaded i heard some bubbleing, so took off the side pannel and realized that the water in the nb/sb loop wasnt flowing and it was in fact boiling. good news is that i noticed before any damage was done to the motherboards nb/sb or my 8800 GTS. It would seem that the xspc res/pump's pump gave out.
Yeah those XSPC pump/res combos tend to die a lot and not perform too well.
Yeah like Spawn said, cut a hole for the tube to pass through properly from the rad.
I also think you could do a better job at the loop layouts.
For the CPU loop:
I would make a bracket that allows you to place the D5 on the very edge of the bottom 5 1/4" drive bay, you could rotate the pump that way so the fluid from the res could flow right into it, you would use a lot less tube that way and it would look a lot neater. You could still have a "T" joint right after the pump outlet going straight down to the floor of the case to a Danger Den Fillport.
For the GPU loop:
This loop isn't bad at all, very neat, except the drain "T". You could connect the "T" line to one of the two bottom ports on the GPU water block and once again run the line down to the floor of the case and use a Danger Den Fill Port.
They are my only qualms with the loops.
clamps on that T near the ram!!!!!!!!
now he has to replace his DVD and sound card
if i may give you a good advice, then throw all of that tubing out, and use some cash on ordering some tygon 19 mm OD tubing and redo the whole loop. and do it all in one loop. the d5 is powerfull enough to handle both raddy´s and blocks.
the xspc pumps are ****. keep away from them. return it, get your money back and use them on hoses:)
save more money and don't get tygon. get masterkleer and get the same results :) though not having tried tygon i guess i can't say that. also i haven't had masterkleer long enough yet. but so far it's heaps better then clearlfex.Quote:
Originally Posted by p0Pe
it's funny how XSPC makes 2 of the top 3 after market DDC pump tops though lol.
yeah, their pump tops rocks agreed. but thats about it xD radiators ok though for the price.
What's wrong with ClearFlex? I use it and have no problems at all. Yeah the tubes got a little powdery but for me that just washed out and when using UV reactive coolant I couldn't tell the difference between new and old tubing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spawn-Inc
Agree, clearflex has worked fine for me, other than it tends to kink sometimes. Fyi the dvd drive needs to be replaced because i didnt tighten a clamp tight enough and the sound card because of the same thing on the vid card block. I dont have the money right now to buy the things i would like. but here is a list.
-Lamptron FC-3 4fan controller because the fans are loud
-3 Pin Fan Extension Cable's because the fan cables on the back rad are way too short
-a simple dvd writer
-Creative Labs SB X-FI Titanium PCIe Sound Card
in the mean time i have connected both loops into one and am getting great temps.
Will
it clouded up on me within 2-3 months using pentosin G11 and it didn't look like i wanted it to.Quote:
Originally Posted by The boy 4rm oz
got a pipe cleaner and got it almost as good as new. then within a month it clouded back up again. the second time i just used distilled water and pt nuke.
so i said screw it and went with masterkleer and it's been about 2-3 months and its just as good as it was with feser view dye. it looks clear as the day i got it and even cheaper then clearflex, half as much. until something happens i am very happy with masterkleer.
I have just heard bad things about Masterkleer. At least ClearFlex uses a very similar formula to Tygon.
I am pleased with the effect my ClearFlex gives me. The slightly cloudy tubing looks good with my UV green coolant. It kinda diffuses the glow, softens it so it isn't really 'in your face'. Just my personal preference really. When I need to switch my tubing I may give Masterkleer ago.
just curious, what did u hear? anything i should look out for? ya with uv it could give a good effect but i also like the smaller tubing of the 7/16" 5/8" OD.
I just heard that it tended to kink really easily and deteriorated pretty quickly. I knew I was going to make some tight bends so I went with the ClearFlex as it is very similar to Tygon.
ahh, hope that won't happen to me... thats the last thing i need.
i think the tightest bend i have is about 100 degrees. it's ever so slightly kinked but it's fine.
*cough* dead thread revival *cough*
Well I was thinking, I have a spare brand new 240 rad and I mean what loop doesn't need another rad? Well that and I just bought a full coverage block for my gtx285. Only problem is the placement. The thing I am thinking of right now is this.
basically the 360 rad can be connected from either side so why not just connect the 240 right to it?
What do you guys think?
I like the idea, the new Swiftech rads that utilize the pass through fittings add a lot more flexibility. I'd give it a go, the worst thing that can happen is that your temps get worse.
If you connect them like I think you are talking about the rear rad may not get much flow moving through it. Or it being smaller it may take most of the flow and leave the larger rad barely flowing. This is because water will travel the path of least resistance.
the only time i would stack rads is with proper fannage.
so like this Fan|rad|fan|rad|fan.
any less and i wouldn't bother.
There, after about an hour and a half of work it's done
nice work, why did you put them in series instead of parallel?
results?
I ended up putting them in series because i wanted to make sure that both rads got all the water for max cooling, and not just took the path of least resistance. but theres not much of a difference in temps because i only have my cpu in the loop atm, so until i get the gpu block on monday we wont see a difference.
Will
stupid me, it wouldn't work well in parallel as the rad sizes are different.
it should still have dropped cpu temps.
Looks nice. You might want to consider dropping a few bucks on a couple 45-degree fittings so you can have more of a straight shot instead of that tight loop. It just looks too close to kinking for comfort, imo.
I agree with x88x, a couple if 45 degree fittings will really tidy up that transition between the 2 rads.
O_o According to bios my cpu is running at -46C
Ive never really noticed but my cpu block is cold to the touch
Have you updated the BIOS recently? I know that sometimes the BIOS temps can be very inaccurate.
never seen an accurate one, well not one for getting exact temps.Quote:
Originally Posted by The boy 4rm oz
please tell me you have more than those 4 puny screws and that plastic bracket holding up those rads and all those fans!
