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Currently have a pair of z313 from logitech. Looking for a 2.1 or 5.1 system with a ton of low end, Currently have a soundblaster audgy (need a half height card for a bit) and will be having an xfi music in a couple pay checks. I want these to be reasonably priced, $100, and make me be afraid to turn the volume to max, and the base should rattle me a little. your help is appreciated (by all except my neighbors)
I just picked up a Logitech Z506 5.1 system at MC for $99.99. SOUNDS SIIIICCCKKKK, especially in BFBC2 :eek:
you can do what i have now. get your self some floor speakers the big ones. then get a cheapo deepo 2.1 sound. it wont be true surround sound but any way it will rattle. you cut the wires and spice them into each other. i use 2 small speakers up front and 2 big ones in the back. my house rattles and shakes with the bass all the way up. i have 1 subwoofer.
The higher-end Logitech sets can definitely rattle entire houses.
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 I love them and they're less clutter than my Z5500's. Music sounds amazing without having to fine tune settings like the Z5500's and on FPS's you can still tell where players are coming from. Buy a 2nd set down the road if need be and your house will come apart. :P
EDIT: They also have a wireless version but they'll run you ~$50 more.
link?Quote:
Originally Posted by BuzzKillington
The Logitech Z-2300 and Z623 systems are pretty much identical to the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 system in case you can't find it anywhere. On Amazon it's not available but the Logitechs are. 130w sub with 35w satellites.
Well.... my speakers finally are starting to give up the ghost (speaker rattle at high volume).... and i get paid next week, any new speakers i should be aware of guys? It's hard to find the klipsch even online unless you want to pay $$$$$$
I have this setup, works great :D
http://www.logitech.com/en-us/speake...s/devices/7191
lol... i actually picked up a set of promedia's for $79 new from a top rated seller. lol...
I have a set you might like, and I'd really like to sell the whole set. PM me if you are interested.
can a sound card produce an unamplified signal? allowing the speakers to do the amplification?
that's the way sound cards work. they produce a low level signal and the speakers have the amps in them. you have to get a pretty high end sound card to have one that produces an amplified signal.
...and even then, it's not a very big amp onboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by xr4man
Look into T-amps for some low buck amps that hit way above their price point.
lol... those speakers are LOUD.... i have windows volume at 5%, and itunes at ~50% and they are still pretty noisey...
i have an asus xonar, d2x and its mind blowing, sound card wise. i know you will think im crazy, but a good set of headphones were discontinued 15+ years ago. my friends dad, was bass guitar in the surfari's and i really love the sound. i never thought headphones could sound soo good. sterling tl400's. they were mind blowing. it was funny i came home talking about amazing beats, and also talking about a taco shop i just tried, and that they were the best, and you could tell they thought i was high. :facepalm: far from it though.
nothing beats a car amp running on a PC power supply with a in line capacitor
Youtube?
Any issues with "auto shutdown" running on the pc psu? what is your amperage rating on that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigsoffurynothing beats a car amp running on a PC power supply with a in line capacitor
I did that for a bit, but at peak (split second) the subs would pull 25+ amp. Under-powering them would cause the amp to shutdown for a couple seconds then kick back in and resume the beats. I ended up buying a dedicated variable voltage psu with peak amp of 30 and it seems to correct it.
2 12" L7 solobarics w/2KW amp at 2ohm. It was quite impressive though. It put most high end subwoofers to shame for the price.
yep! ive ghetto rigged that for home use.... for my friend. haha :banana:Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigsoffurynothing beats a car amp running on a PC power supply with a in line capacitor
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmEv
Theres a few but i don't see them using capacitors.
Quote:
Any issues with "auto shutdown" running on the pc psu? what is your amperage rating on that?
I did that for a bit, but at peak (split second) the subs would pull 25+ amp. Under-powering them would cause the amp to shutdown for a couple seconds then kick back in and resume the beats. I ended up buying a dedicated variable voltage psu with peak amp of 30 and it seems to correct it.
2 12" L7 solobarics w/2KW amp at 2ohm. It was quite impressive though. It put most high end subwoofers to shame for the price.
You desperately need a inline Capacitor if your going to make it work flawlessly with a high power amp at sustainable volumes for any amount of time..... The larger the capacitor the more Thunder strikes the subwoofer can pull out of the capacitor before the amp drains it all and the power supply starts delivering the amperage itself and obviously the PSU your using needs to exceed the peak amperage draw of the amplifier itself in case that happens.
You also need to Use a power supply with a single +12v "rail" or line... whatever the term is, You can't use PSU's with the dual or triple or more +12v rails... Just the single rail ones (they'll provide all the amperage from a single source....and bridging those +12v lines isn't something i think you can physically do anyways?)
But the capacitor is the secret key to the whole set up working.
I need to purchase a cap for my 750w Pioneer sub lol, it cuts the headlights when it hits hard.
You can physically damage the ECU and CCU in the car from doing that... permanently.Quote:
Originally Posted by billygoat333
And a ECU is about 1,400~2,900$ more then a capacitor.. so i'd probably get that cap pretty quick if you've got a thunderstorm in your trunk.
(Don't forget the terminal fuse in case **** hits the fan, you don't want your car catching fire)
Trust me on that... inline fuse right at the battery = win.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigsoffury
No fuse = smoke, fire, rapid disassembly.
Yes.. I know a certain car company that should have followed that formula. :D
:down:
What about noise? I remember when I had the stereo shop, we used rather expensive power supplies for the demo boards because of the noise isolation they provided and of course the ability to deliver large amperage. Do you hear any of the 60hz bleeding through into the speakers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by OvRiDeYes.. I know a certain car company that should have followed that formula. :D
:down:
What about noise? I remember when I had the stereo shop, we used rather expensive power supplies for the demo boards because of the noise isolation they provided and of course the ability to deliver large amperage. Do you hear any of the 60hz bleeding through into the speakers?
You could use some Ferrite chokes? I know you use those in the headunits up front to cancel out the transmission Whine you always tend to hear on poorly insulated stereos.
But i never heard any sort of strange buzzes, whines or hissing when i had this type of set up going. (living in an apartment so dual 15's isn't quite....acceptable)
Good to know :P and yes, there is a fuse right after the battery... lol first thing I did when I installed my system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twigsoffury
