USS EURISKO - Intrepid Mark II Class

Hello Everyone,

Allow me to introduce myself shortly. My name is ASPHIAX and I live in Boxtel (Netherlands). Just turned 33 and have been occupied with computers from the age of 17. (making noise - dont have another word for it - with fasttracker and fruitloops :smoker:)
Started out wayback with an MSX and Commodore 64 and lately ventured into watercooling and have been HOOKED ON IT EVER SINCE!!!
What do i do when i am not thinking about modding: I am a business consultant at Belgacom and am designing VoIP and Unified Communications networks for the enterprise customers.

It all started about 3 months ago. After extensive reading on the fora (this one being a favorite!) I started out with my first watercooling project. A Dragonlord K62 with an XSPC 750H2O kit, couple of fans and an additional radiator. All good fun but it soon wasnt enough any more and i found myself cutting into my case with power tools and bending plexiglas with my wife's hairdryer. (which actually doesnt work, lol) I can post some pics of it, just a nice complete pc.

I needed something bigger ... One night i was cruising the web looking for something fun to build when the scifi channel caught my attention. It was the start tune of Star Trek Voyager ! The same second i was thrown 15 years back into time and saw myself (after a intense night of clubbing, still buzzing of the dutch national product) watching Star Trek.
Knew it in a heart beat :D
So here it is : the USS Eurisko , Intrepid Mark II Class

Technical Data :
Class: Intrepid Mark II
Type: Scientific exploration, general bad-ass
Crew: 141
Length: 344 meter
Hight: 66 meter
Width: 133 meter
Decks: 15
Holodecks: 2
Mass: 702.000 metrische ton
Max Speed: warp 9.975
Sustained Max Warp: Warp 9.985, 1 hour.
Cruisingspeed: warp 8
Cargo Holds: 4
Shuttle Platforms: 1
Armament: 8 Type X Phaser arrays,
4 Photon Torpedo Launchers (Stock 150)

After some serious digging on the web i found these designs. I just cant give enough credit to whoever made them (partly because i dont know :think: ) but: MAN isnt she pretty ...
I always found the original design form the serie a little to toy-like with all the markings and windows. This isnt! This is Rough, Industrial, Bad-ass!

Voyager-Angry --- Must kill Borg !!!

Man I'm itching to start this build ...

Let me try to explain what i want to do.
I will be building the frame out of MDF. Easy to manipulate and cheap. Was thinking of building it out of plexiglas but that is going to be way expensive and a good thermofolding device (sorry dont know the english word for it) is also expensive and hard to find a second hand one.
Wood is better for now.

I will mount my current Q6600 CPU, Gigabyte EP45 MoBo and Platinum XTC 1066 RAM on top of the baseplate (see pics for more clarification)

2 HDD's will be mounted in the nose section and to supply the airflow for the mobo and the hdd's, the top and bottom sections of the saucer (where the blue dots are) will be drilled and covered with a hex mesh. A (or more) Blue CCFL's will supply a blue-ish glow making the whole looking more agressive, like the led strips over the headlights of the new AUDI's.

The main deflector dish will be supplied with a 12 or 14 CM blue led fan immediately followed by the PSU. Behind the PSU a 240 RAD (rather a 360 but that is dependant on the available space) blowing the warm air directly out of the ship by means of fanholes with hex mesh

I am going to try to follow the designs as closely as possible and the "Dilithium Cooling Intake Manifolds" (blue dotted drilled holes in top and bottom) and the "Main Deflector Aft Target Array" (fanholes for the 360 radiator) will hopefully be the only big deviations.

I dont have a planned location for the pump, so that's "Pending Starfleet Approval"

The warp nacelles will be fitted with custom reservoirs with blue coolant. I am currently working with one of my potential sponsors for the res's.
The whole Pylons (including the warp nacelles) will be fitted with small electromotors that will be capable of making the ship warp ready (even though the Ablative armor would probably not allow it in the "real" world) But that is future work. Gotta leave some challenges right ...

As this is a Mid-Ship MotherBoard setup (heard that one before?), all the internal connections like VGA, HDMI, GB-Lan, Audio, USB ports will have to be extended to possibly the backside of the ship. I want it to be as clean as possible with absolutely no cables over the hull.

The top "canope" must be able to be removed easily to get to the internal harware setup for easy reconfig or placing new gfx cards.

When the frame is ready it is meant to be covered with a thick layer of foam. That needs to be sanded as per original design and i am going to engrave the armor plating. (looking forward to that job , NOT!)
The whole thing is going to be airbrushed with the help of a good friend and per original design colour scheme.

Well i wanted something bigger and this is a big as it is going to get. With a dimensions of 154cm (L) 60 cm (W) and 35 CM(H) it really is as big as its going to get!

This will keep me busy for quite some time!

I already did some work, here are the first updates,

Later !

ASPHIAX

With pride I can announce my first sponsors! These are :

Brink of Modding eill be making the 2 custom coolant reservoirs for the EURISKO Warp Nacelles.

Also I am proud to announce my second sponsor! This is :

Gigabyte has fitted the EURISKO with a beautifull motherboard, the P67A-UD7!

And here is my third sponsor! This is:

Highflow is the premiere dutch watercooling supplier and will help me keep the EURISKO as cool as possible and thus make us breach the WARP 10 barriere!

Current State @ 7-3-2011

Version 30-1-2011

Old MDF Version (Killed)

Ok , here is the story so far.
After a couple of weeks of brainstaorming, making sketches, how wil it fit, what do I need, What will be the Dimensions, etc , it was time to get busy.
Luckely I have a huge whiteboard in my house where (enjoying a beer) i could draw and think visually.
Lets get some wood !

Little memory helper !

Rough sketch, but hey it will all be covered in foam right ...

The dimensions of the motherboard and the height restrictions in particular was driving me mad! I needed to take in account not only the hight of the Graka (dutch slang for GFX card) but the width of the MoBo (MOtherBOard) but also the tubing for the watercooling (WC), waterblock for the CPU, etc. So i made a mold (is that the correct term?) that would allow me to easily test out locations, moving it around the baseplate. Works beautifully !

`

The next day. Put a rim onto the baseplat that will allow me to build the removable canope so i can access the hardware when it is finished. no idea how this will look when it is covered in foam.

The start of the framework, made easy by the mold !

Gotta make sure its stable enough for the foam and trasnportation. also a good indication of where the HDD's are going to be mounted.

What the idea here is to put foam on top of the framework where all the wood comes together, so i built a case to keep it stable.

The First plating. Was a hell of a job to get the correct angle en I am still not satisfied. It looks to high. The slits at the bottom are going to be used for the foam to reach both sides, making it more stable.

The angle is off i think, kust cant put my finger on it whats wrong ...

The curvature is nice though

Ande the final state, just slammed some pieces of wood together to get an impression on the tail. this will be replaced by something else.

So far for this weekend !

later
Asphiax

Ok, so i got another couple of hours of work done.
This will show the Deflector Tunnel houding the PSU and the 360 RAD.
I need a smaller PSU , that's for sure ...

With the tail bent inwards a little

she's got a fat ass !

So lets do some trimming

And some more trimming

the "Other side of the wormhole Quark!"

Sorry wrong series :bash: !

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Here are a couple of pics on the airflow .
Please note i am not a graphical designer, i do not have any 3d skill (Download Direct2Brain anyone?)
These are the "Dilithium Cooling Intake Manifolds" on the top, the bottom will have something similar. The HDD's will be mounted over the bottom intake manifolds so they will get some cooling also. The whole intake of air is also pushed over the motherboard by a large fan in the first support rib inside the casing.

The only thing that is worrying me is the intake in the green circle. a few cm further i am pushing warm air out through 3 x 120MM fans. so there is a possibility of a feedback loop.

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Ok, took a step back and redid the whole project in my mind. The dimensions of the ship didn't feel right. there was something off. Everyone who saw her in the flesh immedaitely said so. To high, sides to steep, nose to short compared to the width. Back to the drawing board it is.

Width versus high calculated where the hight was the known. Length and depth calculations with the outcome. Redid the ellipse of the saucer compared to the length of the tail.
And guess what !!! 32(!) CM to short and 9cm less wide than the designs. Messed up the design to model ratio's.
Slammed on a few pieces of MDF and it looked and felt a lot better! A nice smooth aerodynamic design instead of a large bump on the baseplate.

Only with 154CM length, 63CM width and 32CM hight it is not small anymore. I can see myself moving my pc with a forklifter just to connect a USB cable. This will not do ...

Did a lot of searching, reading, asking questions and i finally settled on a Epoxy/glasfiber body.
This will ensure the ship is still movable and will give me the strength i need.

Just on a side note: Funny how a build can go from slamming a few pieces of wood together to full model building. (if you want to do it right)

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Ok here is the first recap of the weekend
My wife is watching Idols or the voice of holland or some crap like that so time for me to do some damage :banana: !

Restarted the whole build, this time I used styropor foam (also called roofmate)

The Old and The New

I am fixing everything temporarily with sateh spikes (normally used for the barbecue)

Did all the rough work with a powertool

For the finer work i bought a styropor cutter. Just a piece of metal wire with 2 AA batteries. Unfortunately it was to fine ...

Man what a job !!! :eek:
There were some times where i really though i was going to quit and forget modding forgood...
The rough work SUCKS !!!!!!!!!

Slowly it is taking shape

After the rough work it is a matter of taking a breadknife and peeling the foam off. Even though it looks annoying, this is the better part of the forming of the model. She's taking shape in front of your eyes and you can get some decent detail in there.

The gypsum sanding paper (metal paper with little holes to let the gypsum escape) is degrading fast. There is some fight in this piece of foam

My wife was intensely happy with me !!!

Placed the old deflector tunnel to get an idea of the model.

Quickly placed the tail to see how long its gonna be. 1,54 meters is quite a stretch!
Oh yeah, the black circles are area''s i need to attack with the breadknife

Trimming her piece by piece. Tried all sorts of knives, the breadknife still reigns

Without noticing it, you tend to trim off quite a bit

I took some tape and started to place the drawing of the armor plating. Tomorrow i will start cutting away at the deep pieces making sure the drawing will get the proper depth.

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Ok here is another recap

Got up really early in the morning to make some filler

I had to make sure with this type of foam to use a cellulose based filler or it would reduce the model to blubber

Sorry for the Dutch Guys, it says cellulose based

Nice and smooth

I was not happy with the lines of the drawing of the model so i took out the tape and started anew...

The result !

Ok, what i wanted to do is to make room for the hex mesh and the "DCIM" air intake holes.
What I did is I took a stanly knife (dont know is the correct English term?) and I cut out the drawing and with a pointed plyer "plucked" out the foam. This works fast and you can get good accuracy.

HMMM : POPCORN !!!

Does not take to much time also

Finishing it off with a dremel on turbo setting. This also closes the foam (due to the heat) so the epoxy/fiber coat will not get into the model (well that's the theory behind it anyway :eyebrow:)

DCIM and large depth of armor finished

Both sides finished. I found out that by making a lesser deep cut into the foam with the stanley knife, you would automatically "pluck" less foam and could easily alter the depth.

so this side with the armor to dcim barrier already completed

DO you feel lucky... punk ?

Quickly placed the old deflector tunnel to get a better view of the model

Also did the amor plating rims

BAD-ASS !!!

Not completely happy with the symmetry but its getting along nicely

Sometimes i tend to forget i need to build a complete watercooled pc in there aswell
Here is a view with an extremely simple filter but it is kinda like what i want to do

Laters
ASPHIAX

The Delta Flyer, maybe an idea for the mouse ?!?

Carved a quick little model from the foam, looks kinda nice ...

Let me see if i can build a mouse in there.
The dimensions are off, but this is just a test right

laterz,
ASPHIAX

Actually went a lot faster than i anticipated ...

Those good old sateh spikes ...

2 spiks on the mouse buttons !

et voila, a custom mouse

Now need to build a detailed well proportined model, cover it with fiber, cut out the mouse buttons, glue a small nut on the back of it, glue the spikes on it, connect them to the button hardware, cover the connection with a little spring or something to keep it in place and airbrush it ....
Nice job for a rainy day sometime, but should be feasible !
Laterz
ASPHIAX

Janeway: Lay in acourse mr Paris, warp 10! I want to be in the alpha quadrant before lunch!
Seven-of-Nine : this is an imperfect ship, it needs alignment, we will not survive!
B'Elanna : I agree with the drone, we are already at warp 9,9 any faster and we'll allbe dust.
Janeway: Options mr Kim...
Kim: litterbox ...
All : WHAT?
Kim: Well captain, you have thrown kittens at warp 10 before!
Janeway: EXCUSE ME !?!
Paris: Better make it quick, the dilithium reaction is reaching critical mass captain, she's running red hot! Ehh, no pun intended .... mam ...
Tuvok : logically, a warp-core breach is imminent captain.
Janeway: Damn it, drop to warp 5 and call those guys at logitech again!

Here is some more background to the design

Have to extend all the connections to the back of the ship!

Oh no , the borg have taken over the ship !
Need to swap out the green enermax for a blue one.

Here is an overview of the placing of the hardware

later
ASPHIAX

Was able to squeeze another couple of hours : how to be creative with foam !

Started work on the deflector tunnel

For some reason i was craving for a good kebab...

Shaping

HOMER SIMPSON : HMMMM KEBAB !!!

Ok, a little flash forward, all that cutting ...
Quickly made a couple of pieces of foam for the pylon and warp nacelle

To compare: Nacelles down

To Compare : Nacelles up

And the final state for today

Untill next time !
ASPHIAX

Ok, Here are another set of pics

Spend the whole morning thinking, looking, sketching on how to place the Canope on the baseplate. The baseplate is a MDF panel on which the Mobo and radiators will be placed on top and the PSU, HDD's and pump(s) on hanged on the bottom. It will form the backbone of the case (if you can still call it a case :D) Together with the Canope on top, the Deflector Tunnel on the bottom and the pylon partition at the back it will need to provide the rigidity and connection point for all the hardware and the electromotors for the movable Pylons and warpnacelles.

*EDIT : Ablative Armor actually does not allow warp (as far as i can tell) So the EURISKO will devaite from that point by allowing the ship to reach warp configuration.
http://memory-alpha.org/wiki/Ablative_armor

The baseplate!
I made the baseplate a couple of cm smaller than the canope.

Here's a little trick I found. I only want to cut to the exact depth of the baseplate. So i measured the thrickness of the baseplate.

marked it with tape on the knife

If the knife flows along nicely through the foam, if it starts "jumping" you're to deep. EASY!

Let the plucking begin!

This weekend also POPCORN!

Needed to get the middle piece out. Not a quick job.

Perfect Fit! Exactly the right depth. The canope now has a wide support rim on the mdf When the canope gets covered with epoxy/glassfiber.

Also filled the little holes and cracks in the deflector tunnel. Also made the wing partition. It looks a bit big but these are the unfished elements. The Tunnel looks a bit strange but that is an optical issue.

Quickly put the whole thing together. i cant remember how many times i have done that. got to keep checking :think:

Sunk the wing partition into the deflector tunnel

No we have a nice wood on wood connection (Hout = WOOD !!!) to create the backbone

Worked my ass of whole day and it looks exactly the same as yesterday !

Oh well, those days are also expected right :banghead:

Laterz !
ASPHIAX

Ok Here is the final update for this weekend.
The bottom half of the saucer and side pieces are almost finished.
It was a big job thinking my way out of this.

And again the breadknife !

Little test fitting

The double chin !

Creating some depth

And another fitting moment

Also got to keep the hardware in the back of the mind

Smoothing out the depth

Black circles are area's where the breadnife needs to be applied

With the main deflector

Making the correct flow to the deflector

Better !

When there is no "hot wire" to cut the foam I need to use brute force !

The thin sideplates

Smooth flowing design ...

While i am posting this i see a lot of room for improvement. the connection between the bottom saucer part and sidepanel needs better flow.

Laterz
ASPHIAX

With pride i can announce my first sponsor!

Brink of Modding (know from the Cubeleon and Brake line fangrill) will be building 2 custom reservoirs for the EURSIKO warp nacelles.

Check his site for some examples of the award winning work this guy does!

Brink of Modding

ASPHIAX

Here is some graphical work that will be the base for the duo fangrill.

Final version

Laters
ASPHIAX

Ok here is a short update !

Fan Layout (92 mm scythe fans) integrated into the lower saucer section

started work on the DCIM's and armour plating

Tricky Business, The deflector tunnel was not properly formed. So I had to cut it up knowing I did not have enough foam left to replace it.

After a extremely helpfull visit to a guy who has been building his model airplanes for 30 years i have descided to take the negative/positive mold approach. So removed the tape and started filling the sides.
Big advantage is that i can rebuild the canope within hours if i screw up!

Total view , in the background the bottom saucer section drying.

So now a week of sanding, filling, sanding, filling, sanding, fill ....
Grt
ASPHIAX

I will not bother you guys with pictures of the sanding and filling process but I have taking a old piece of mesh and cut it up to make more clear the "Dilithium Cooling Intake Manifold" idea.
I will place some fat CCFL's or LEDS behind the mesh.

Was a real task to get all the lining straight. Used a dremel to "sculpt" the filling and every night put on a layer of filling and sanding ...

But i am not quite there yet. The symmetrie is a little off, so out comes the trusted dremel !

As Usual the first weekend update !

Hmm, what are these ?

Ahh, pylons!

And a Fitting session

Starting to look like something!

Tomorrow continue the sanding and filling of the pylons and brainstorm on how to fit the reservoirs and the 19mm tubing for the watercooling.

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Here is update no 2

Before and After a round of sanding

Missed the correct symmetrie a lot of times, used up a lot of foam making mistakes. I really had to sit down to think why I got it wrong all the time and how to get the impuls drives correctly out of the foam.

Finally the right symmetrie !!!!!

Whats wrong with this picture... Can you see it ?

Nicely symmetrical but it had to be mirrored !!!!
:mad::bash::banghead::fight::whistler:

And after that everything covered in filling and glued together!

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Here is part 1 of the overview of this weekend.

ASPHIAX

V.S

EPOXY

I was not looking forward to this job. I knew that if i was to mess up, a couple of weeks of work would go down the drain. Full enthousiasme started this job then...
I dont have to much pictures of the actual Epoxy work as the plastic gloves covered in Epoxy prevented me from using my camera.

So I first used several layers of loosening wax on the model. Let these layers dry and covered the model with a thick layer of epoxy. The placing of the glasfiber cloth on the straight and flat surfaces is not a problem, but then there were the corners.
What a DRAMA !!!
I knew of the difficulties with straight corners with glassfiber but I did not expect it to be that bad. A to straight of a corner (close to 90 degrees) will mean that a bubbel of air gets trapped on top of the corner and a corner with a radius will form in the lower part. The radius is not that bad, you can use a filler to resolve it. The bubbel on top on the other hand is not ok at all.
You cant push it down by hand (tried it, keeps popping up) and when not treated it can cause the paint to pop off when even moderate force is used on the model let alone fly at warp 9 :eyebrow: So I had to cut the bubbels out and fill them with epoxy.

For a layman simple forms and shapes are fairly easy. A complex shape like the EURISKO with several adjacent inner and outer corners is tough. Especially when there is a timelimit on the time epoxy can be used before it solidifies. For my next build I will think twice before using the material in this fashion again.

Here is the result!

Seperate the canope from the deflector tunnel

And back to the baseplate

Started to empty the canope. In the end I did not choose to do the positive/nagative mould. The primairy reason is that I do not trust myself enough with the epoxy.
(I can hear you thinking .... Yes changed direction again!!!)

The DCIM's can finally be opened

Layer on layer deeper. Looks kinda like an old roman theater!

Completely hollowed out the canope. Left some foam at strategic area's as the whole became encreasingly flexible and vulnarable. Due to the left foam the model will keep the intented form. I will put another layer of epoxy/glass on the inside making the canope around 2 cm's thick and much stronger.

Canope is completely finished. At least on the inside there is now enough room for the hardware. the outer layer will be covered with filling and I will recreate the straight corners.

So eventually it all came together. Had to do a lot of "On the Fly" adjustments but that is part of the fun for me. Thinking on my feet and adjusting where necessary.

As usual my wife was not so happy with me working on the model.

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Here is a question I would like to share with you.
Excellent question. Dont know ! I will weigh the model.

The Canope is exactly 2.3 kg. It is just styrofoam with a layer of filling and a layer of epoxy and glasfiber. The baseplate is around 3,5 kg and I guess the deflector tunnel with the pylons will be about 2,5 Kg. The reservoirs with coolant will be 1 kilogram each. So the whole thing without the normal hardware will 10 to 11 kilograms or 20 to 22 pounds.

In comparison a lian-li PC-A77FA is around 9,2 Kg or 18,5 to 20 pounds.

Here's another short update
Took apart my old hobby pc for a test fitting in the Eurisko.

This is what it looked like as a V1

The V2 with a lot of plexiglass work, custom window and refitted case to house the internal 280 (roof) and 240 )(floor) radiators

Eurisko Test fitting

Can order the goodies now the internal dimensions have been confirmed. Looks like maybe I can even fit a pair of 6870's in crossfire :-)
Going to do the internal canope work tonight and start on the epoxy for the deflector tunnel.

Later
ASPHIAX

Found a package at my house on friday.
The first Highflow order is in !

So here are the first starfleet approved USS EURISKO tech specs

The best radiators I could find. I am planning to overclock the system so i need all the cooling i can get. (also foam is a very good insulator so the less heat the better)

To get enough flow through a large ship like the EURISKO i need to have a strong pump. I have allowed room for a secondary laing pump if the circulation proves inadequate.

the fans for on top of the radiators. These fans will be put into a push-pull configuration with the planned fans in the bottom saucer. This to improve the cooling even better. Due to the thick thermochill rads, space was an issue. So I opted for these ultra thin (12mm) Scythe fans

The White Hot EPS Plasm Conduits will be made from the UV tubing from Feser

And a couple of beautifull pieces of mesh for the top and bottom DCIM's

And here they are : Itsy and Bitsy !!!
The built to order reservoirs for the EURISKO !
Made available by my sponsor : Brink of Modding

they hade to be exactly 27cm long and 5 cm wide to fit into the Warp Nacelles.
(update on how that will work, will follow shortly)

Itsy en Bitsy

Peter, Thanks man !!!

Here is the update for this weekend.

Started work on the canope and bottom saucer. One of the final dusty jobs.

All the bottom saucer parts glued to the baseplate

And added a layer of epoxy

Started work on the Main Deflector
Found a sweet piece of plexiglas, cut a hole for the fan to suck in some air and sunk a piece of mesh into it.

Cut a quick couple of pieces of depron to cover the edges. Now I have to wait for the deflector tunnel to be put into the filler and epoxy before i can complete it.

Started work on the warp nacelles with the Brink of Modding reservoirs.
Quickly realised the foam pylons and nacelles were not going to do the job. Setback of about a day. I wanted to hollow out the nacelles and put the hardware into it but the stiffness of the epoxy/glas layer would not stand up to hold the reservoirs, coolant, tubing and fittings. Let alone the mechanical forces that would work onto the epoxy/glass layer once the servo's have been fitted and the whole wing section can move up and down. Back to the drawing board it is ...

Found the solution. There will be MDF plating in this baby ! :D

Even in a starship they have to do weight reduction, so out with all the mdf we dont need!

And a quick test fitting. This picture is with the old foam pylons (the new solution in beneath it)

with this solution the pylon/nacelle partition will be strong enough to handle anything.

Made sure the dimensions stayed the same due to the relative sizes (nacelles vs canope vs width and height)

Side facing view with the reservoirs sticking out of the wood just slightly. This will be made better by the depron plates.

Just a quick test with a single led. working with WWWicked on a 10 fold led arrangement for the nacelles.

Total view

Could not resist testing the Main Deflector with the led. The MD needs to finished with the Angel Eyes or Frosted Led technique.

Wish I had 2 leds for testing ...

Best
ASPHIAX

Well that;s it for the story so far.
I told you guys i was working on something "bigger" in my introductory post couple of month ago. Now i finally have come to a point to share it with you as I am so impressed with the work some of you guys are doing on this forum.

I hope you like the build so far and please let me know if you have any remarks, questions or suggestions.

Hope to hear from you !

ASPHIAX

Wow, this is an awesome build! I've always enjoyed the design of the Intrepid class and it's great to see one come to life as a computer! Thanks for sharing!

Thanks! I finally found a hobby that combined 2 of my favorite things - Scifi and Building computers.
The Voyager is the most beautifull ship in the fleet, although a sovereign class is not bad also.
Your welcome!

Here's a pic that will give you a better idea of the dimensions.
She is 154 cm long, 61 cm wide and 34 cm high !

Before you ask, I have a big office in my house she is going to live in , LOL !

Here is the announcement of 2 new sponsors!

First:

Gigabyte hase helped the EURISKO by fitting it with a new motherboard, the P67A-UD7

What a beauty, clean, slick, black with golden highlights! Super! Thansk a lot Gigabyte!


And :

Highflow will help the EURISKO to keep as cool as possible and thus help break the WARP 10 barriere!

Here is some graphical work on the confirmed Hardware that will be used in the EURISKO !

Laterz
ASPHIAX

Love the designs, and congrats on the sponsors! That is a really slick looking mobo.

Thanks man, This is the first time I do a really big build so getting sponsors (and the fact that those companies want to tie their name to my work in particular) is very cool and a first for me. The stuff they sponsor is really helping me focus my (limited) funds on building the thing and keeping momentum. I think a build should take about 3 to 4 months max depending on complexity and getting the right stuff will sure help me build at least 2 a year.
Best
ASPHIAX

I'm not really a Star Trek fan but this is very cool so far. Congrats on getting sponsored on your very first build! Your talent and dedication are pretty obvious so it's no wonder...:)

Question is, is this his first build, or his first build HERE...?


Impressive though.
We need to rep this guy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AmEv

Question is, is this his first build, or his first build HERE...?


Impressive though.
We need to rep this guy.

---

Thanks !
This is actually my first big build, here and everywhere. But is was the work by your Paul Capello on the Doom3 that sparked my obsession with scratch building and complete conversions. Enormous fan of his work and a true inspiration!

ps.
Did have a Dragonlord K62 with a couple of fans and some rads but got fed up with that within 3 months. There are some pics of the V1 and V2 in the test fitting post if you like to see it.

Ok, here is the report of todays work.
Going snowboarding this weekend so no major updates this weekend, sorry

There were some new goodies from :

The Life support system has arrived ! Beautifull Alu NorthQ 92 mm fans

And what will be a much used piece of tooling soon (I hope ...)
Phobya Molex Kit

It has to become something like this

Quick fitting session as the rad's needs to be placed on the inside also

Another fitting session

Some holes in mdf .. (needs to be cut to correct size though...)

And a quick fitting session to make sure it is in line with the model. Fitting and trying stuff on the model is something i do quite a lot and has prevented me from some major mistakes.

Need to cut a piece of silver mesh for the ouside alos.

Sunk the MDF into the bottom saucer

And then there was light !

Agent Mulder : Look Scully, a UFO !

Total view. The fans are now at Warp 10 so the leds will dim quite a bit at a comfortable warp 5.

Put a ledstrip into the model just to check it out. Even though the effect is funny and maybe usefull for another build (dropped into idea box) it is offcourse not what i would like for this build. The light pollution is heavy due to the thin layer of foam and epoxy is transparant by nature so ... That are going to be a lot of filling and airbrush layers !

The DCIM's will be covered with a black piece (strip actually) of mesh. Picture the blue glowing from behind the mesh and you got what i want to achieve. Will cut a piece tomorrow and post a new pic.

Thansk and ....
Dont forget to vote !